So, what needs to be done to remove the tires from the bike?
- We start to remove the wheel with Blurring the brakes (in the case of V-Brake) or removing the caliper (disc), they can greatly interfere with the next steps.
- Loosen the bolt or cam holding the wheel to the frame.
- We take out the wheel.
- Excess air is released from the chamber through the nipple, it is important that there is as little air as possible, otherwise the chamber is easily touched and damaged.
- Prying the edge with a flap or replacing it at one point.
- Measuring 10-15 cm and repeat the operation, bending back the segment between the two beading, and taking it outside the rim outward.
- Carefully continue removing the tires until one side is completely behind the rim.
- We repeat the action in the same direction with the second side of the tire. Usually this stage is already easier.
Repair of the camera only is limited to items 1-7.
The reverse process is similar:
- It is necessary to put on the tires, starting to lay it inside the rim with one side.
- On the last 15-30 cm Fastening one side of the tire with a bead and carefully transfer the entire edge inside the rim.
- By placing the edge of the tire inside the rim and installing the camera.
- We repeat the process of bending through the rim with the second edge of the tire to finally put it on.
- Mount the wheel, closing the brakes.
Do not forget that all actions should be carried out correctly. Rubber does not like heavy loads, especially the thin and soft rubber used in chambers. All operations with the camera inside the tire should be carried out delicately.
Pump up the wheel.
For those with caliper brakes on their bike. It will be difficult to put an inflated wheel on a bicycle. It is necessary to release the brake pads so that the inflated wheel crawls between them. Then return the brake system to its original position, so it is better to pump up the wheel already installed on the bike. Squeeze the tires with your hands into the blocks and push the wheel.
You need to inflate the wheel to the value indicated on the tires. This is usually 4-4.5 bar. If there is a pressure gauge in the air supply system to the chamber, then you need to pump in a state where pressing the strongest hand with the thumb and bent index finger on both sides of the tire will not significantly crush the tire rubber.
If the hand is female, then you need to put pressure on the steering wheel, saddle or trunk with your whole body. The rubber should deform slightly at the bottom of the wheel into the support surface.
Pumping a bike with a regular pump is difficult. You have to try. It is not recommended to pump over. A well-inflated bike has a light, good ride. Under-inflated tires on a bicycle impair bike ride. Lead to premature tire wear. An exception for driving on sand, so that the wheels do NOT bury in the sand, they are pumped up to a state where you can drive without damaging the wheel rim.
»How to put it on correctly. Conclusion
Do-it-yourself tire removal is easy, and most riders do this repair exercise the first time around. Accuracy of execution, the availability of convenient tools. and changing the camera will be no problem.
There were graters with Fox ‘ ohm about the correct installation of tires.
Actually what is the problem:
There are 2 led and 2 types of tires (for convenience, different angles are selected)
Wheel rotation in the direction of the arrow:.-
Type 1 (stand in Fox, the figure looks like a symbol):
Front wheel rear wheel
Type 2 (stand in DELa, tread pattern, side view //// | (rectangular trapezoid)):
Fox says it’s the right way to fit tires.
My opinion is that they should stand like this:
The theme was created solely in order to find the truth.
Most tires have an inscription “Drive” with an arrow that shows the normal direction of rotation of the wheel. If there is such an inscription, then the tire is either absolutely symmetrical and it does not matter how the manufacturer or the manufacturer does it. Lazy person. In the latter case, the direction of rotation can be tried to determine from the tread pattern. Typically, evil rubber has a structure like “herringbone”, that is, the trace resembles something like this: “. The correct direction of rotation is such that the opening of the Christmas tree on the track is directed forward. The bicycle shown in the example of the track went from left to right. An example of the correct direction of real tires. On the picture.
THOSE. As I understand from this, correctly installed tires should leave a trail of the Christmas tree directed forward. Contradicting what Fox says.
P.S. Again, not for the purpose of an argument, but for the sake of truth
It all depends on what kind of tire, if one-sided, then it should be set as indicated by the arrow with the inscription Rotation or Direction if the tire is double-sided, then there are usually two oppositely directed arrows on it and under each is indicated Front or Rear. THOSE. If you put the cover in front, then in accordance with the arrow in the inscription Front. If you put back, then in accordance with the arrow and the inscription Rear.
But an experienced biker can put the tires as he wants, depending on what he wants from each wheel.
For example (using Kenda nevegal as an example):
1. There is a desire for the front tire to be more tenacious on the ground and under braking, and the rear rolling then the front tire is not placed as indicated on the sidewall of the tire.
2. I want to roll from both tires (the rowing and tenacity decreases): the rear one is as it should be (as the arrows indicate)
3. I would like to have more grip on the whole bike (the roll rate and braking speed are reduced):
tires are put back to front.
BUT! Here a lot depends on the structure and type of tread. And is largely determined by personal experience.
Conclusion: Yes, Del and I thirst, you really got a little messy, it happens and it is quite forgivable. Fox told me about this bullshit today, today he looked at how his tires were installed. They are correct in terms of the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Direction of travel according to the manufacturer’s terms Must match the arrow indicated by you Drive.
I would put the bottom tires forward in the Drive direction, because It will hold side loads well, and the upper back in the order as you indicated.
This will give: front tire roll and good handling coupled with good braking, poor braking / roll and lateral stability of the rear tire (which are not so important to me) but it will row well.
This setting on asphalt is not particularly relevant, but it is suitable for any soil.
PS: By the way, if you think carefully, it is easy to find that there is no difference from the bottom view or from the top
THE MOST correct solution to this PROBLEM, RESPECT:
john_lennon (00:27:05 23/03/2009)
tires should be marked with the office on the right)
1. Jaj, this is not the FOX method (with all due respect to him), but the majority method
2. Drozd told you about two types of tires. I will give examples on which I skated myself:
Maxxis LarsenTT. One sided, one arrow on the sidewall
Scott OXYD, Scott Ozon, Continental Mountain King. With two arrows and a different direction of installation front / rear respectively.
3. Refers to highlighted quotation.
Complete nonsense! Scott Ozon, Installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, bears an animal inscription on different sides. But in Continental, apparently, they took into account all the subtleties of bicycle feng shui and do not look at the fact that the tires are installed on different sides of the inscription Continental on one side
Rear Bicycle Wheel.
We put the wheel on a flat surface with a ratchet up. It could be the ground near the bike. We inspect the tires themselves. If this is a tire that has already been on your bike, then you need to make sure that there are remnants of glass, wire, nails and the tire cord is NOT wiped anywhere or exposed.
Cord is a wire insertion into tires at the innermost diameter of the rubber. Tire seat. Broken, exposed cord DOES NOT hold the shape of the tire and may damage the tube.
Direction arrow to tires
Different tools will be needed depending on the bike design.
The minimum set is hands (preferably with gloves), nothing else is needed. What is used to facilitate the process?
- Dismantling a bicycle wheel. small oblong plastic plates with a “hook” at the end. Very helpful to hold the edge when starting to dismantle without effort, and then remove it.
- Any replacement of the bead. often used keys (from locks or wrenches), coins, sticks (which is quite traumatic, by the way).
- Keys for dismantling the wheel. there are also models where it is bolted, and not an eccentric.
- Pump. needed when installing the wheel back.
How to change tires on a bike?
But not everyone punches their own wheels, and not everyone repairs a bicycle on their own. Nevertheless, understanding how you can remove tires from a bike and put what is needed for this and how to do it easily and without unnecessary problems is useful for most riders.
When we take off our bicycle tires?
- The camera is broken. you need to remove the tires, then change the camera, and then assemble the wheel;
- When replacing, in fact, bicycle tires. they tend to wear out, especially with aggressive or prolonged driving;
- When servicing the wheel. when other elements, for example, and the camera, can interfere.
Designation on some directional arrow tires.
Tires are marked with an arrow ROTATION or DRIVE. This is the recommended direction for wheel rotation. The tire is oriented on the wheel by rotation in the direction of the arrow in the direction of the bicycle, clockwise.
For front and rear wheel, arrows in different directions
Arrows FRONT. Direction of rotation for front wheel and REAR. Direction of rotation for rear wheel.
New and used tires must be installed according to the arrow on the side of it. Some arrows have been replaced with inscriptions in English, and the arrows can additionally show the direction. Arrows and labels indicate the clockwise direction of wheel rotation.
Having decided on the direction, we pull without any keys, only with our hands one side of the tire onto the rim, so that the arrows on the side surface point clockwise of the clock.
In order not to look for the nipple of the camera for pumping it in the future, it is necessary that the brightest pattern on the tires coincide with the nipple hole on the rim, so we turn the tires on the rim to match this pattern with the nipple hole on the rim.
Noticeable picture on tires
Take the prepared patch and with them from it the protective foil. Apply a pea-sized glue evenly, spreading it evenly with a match over the entire surface of the patch. Do the same with the camera. Let the glue dry for 5 minutes.
Puncture protection for bicycle tubes and tires
A puncture on the road is the most common and common problem in cyclists. Absolutely every cyclist can face this failure, therefore, it is very important to know how to act correctly if a puncture has already taken place.
Most often, bicycle tires have a tread, which can be used to judge the level of tire wear. If the tread has worn off and the center of the tire has become smooth, then the rubber has outlived its time and should be replaced. If you continue to ride on worn tires, the chance of getting punctured increases significantly. In slicks. initially smooth tires, in many models, special notches are made deep into the tire. When the notches are no longer visible, this is also a sign that it is time to change tires.
After marking all the puncture points, wipe the chamber dry with a rag. Next, you need the following inventory:
- Degreaser (96% alcohol, gasoline or nail polish remover)
- Cotton wool or cotton pads;
- A kit of patches from a bicycle first aid kit (this includes glue and the patches themselves)
- Match (needed for even application of glue over the surface)
- Any heavy object (dumbbell, pot of water).
Take a degreaser, moisten cotton wool with it and then wipe the puncture site with it (remove all dirt and paste from the handle). Remember the place where the hole is and prepare the patch while the alcohol evaporates.
How it works in conventional sealant:
The sealants existing on the market today are based on rubber dissolved in easily evaporated solvents. When the composition comes into contact with the open air, the solvent evaporates and, as a result, the rubber hardens. This removes the puncture. The problem with this approach is that, due to natural diffusion, the concentration of the solvent in the chamber decreases within 3-6 months, the sealant thickens and ceases to perform its functions. In fact, the cyclist is faced with the fact that He does not remember exactly when he filled it in, and does NOT know when the sealant will stop working. As a result, according to the law of meanness, when there is no spare camera, glue, patches with you, you will have to walk home
Ways to protect tires from punctures:
- Protective tape. A special tape made of more durable rubber than the tube, or a second, even stronger material, is installed between the tube and the tire. The subject of tire punctures should rest against the protective tape and protect the camera. Unfortunately, this method of protection is far from the most effective. Often, the protective tape, after some time, slides down and starts grinding the camera in some place.
- Latex cameras. Latex is more elastic than rubber. It is more difficult to Puncture, but also does not guarantee complete puncture protection. In addition, latex chambers allow air to pass through faster, and the wheels will have to be pumped up more often. Usually, such cameras are used by athletes in competition, latex is lighter than rubber.
- Sealant. Ordinary cameras are sold, but with a special liquid inside. Or the liquid is filled manually through a nipple. The point is that the punctures are sealed with sealant on the go, the wheel may deflate a little. In most cases, you will NOT even know that there was a puncture. Alas, but also does NOT guarantee 100% protection. With a large diameter of damage to the chamber, most likely, the sealant will NOT be able to seal it and the wheel will still be lowered, the sealant will leak out.
»How to wear correctly
Looking for damage
Damage search is a creative thing, albeit quite primitive. Almost everyone recommends using a basin or other vessel with water to determine the point of damage by the bubbles, but this is NOT the easiest way, because you will have to Dry the chamber and risk that water gets inside through the nipple, in order to save a few seconds.
Visual puncture search
The definition is much simpler and more accessible by ear:
- Pump up the bike camera.
- Bring it to your ear and look for a point where air etching is heard.
- By localizing the puncture site of the chamber by air flow or visually.
Everything is very simple. It is only necessary to check if there is damage around the valve. With such damage without Special tools, it will not be possible to seal the breakdown.
The most important thing is to make sure the tire pressure is optimal for the bike.
Each tire has a preferred air pressure range, which is measured in pounds per square inch, which is usually printed on the side of the tire.
- Road tire pressures. here 100 to 140 psi.
- Mountain bike tire pressures are here 30 to 50 psi.
- The pressure in children’s bicycles and bicycles for recreational sports is here 60 to 80 psi.
Also, insufficiently inflated tires are damaged more, one of the most frequent injuries of this kind is “microcracks”. They appear when you run over a bump, for example, and a weakly inflated tire is compressed under the weight almost to the rim, resulting in 2 small holes that resemble a snake bite. Excessively inflating tires is also not worth it, except when you need to check the integrity of the tube.
The easiest way to check the tire pressure is with a pump. If you have an older drift model, we recommend purchasing a separate sensor. Be sure to check which valve model you have. Presta or Schrader (in more bulky Presta valves, you must loosen the top nut before checking the pressure).
Shallow tread rubber
For the manufacture of rubber, you should prepare tires with a small pattern and small bolts with nuts. Bolts Must be no more than 1.5 cm long.
To make this type of studded rubber, you should follow the steps below:
- Remove the tires from the bicycle wheel;
- On the inside of the tire, apply with a white marker the places where the studs will be installed;
- Using a 2-3mm drill bit, make a hole and tighten the bolt. It should be remembered that the drill must be of a smaller diameter than the bolt. The bolt must be screwed into the rubber with effort;
- Tighten the nuts on the bolt from the outside;
- Carry out this procedure with all bolts;
- A reinforced tape must be salted inside the tire for additional fixation;
- Install tires on the wheel.
When studding tires in this way, you need to drill a hole in the middle. Edges and the part closer to the rim are not used.
So what do we need.
- Keys and hexagons (for wheels without eccentric)
- Dismantling, or mounting, is a small tool for bending the tire off the rim, easily replaced with a screwdriver or even keys, allows you to work a little more quickly;
- A basin, jar or other vessel with water. to diagnose the site of damage;
- Pressures. to press the camera surface and patch together.
As you can see, the required set is very limited, which allows repairs to be carried out in almost any conditions.
The repair is carried out according to the standard procedure, after which it will be glued at least once. Will not raise any questions.
Most of the time, puncture repair is NOT time consuming and the use of dedicated repair kits makes the job easier.
Tire care: basic points
One of the most important rules is to regularly inspect tires for damage by branches, glass fragments, stone chips, especially if your route previously passed through rough terrain. Such small elements will NOT immediately damage the tire, but over time they will penetrate deeper and deeper into it, until they puncture the tube. Remove pieces of debris with your fingers or tweezers before they do much damage.
You should also check the side of the tire for cracks or wear. Tires with any of THESE problems increase the risk of being deflated at the most inopportune moment. If you are NOT sure about the condition of the bike, Contact the nearest bike repair shop to check the tires.
Recommendations for performing rubber studding
In order for studded bicycle tires to last a long time, you should follow the advice of professionals:
- In order for the screws to last a longer time, you should use the lugs before screwing in;
- The holes need to be drilled with a thin drill at high speeds;
- When using studded rubber, do not pump the wheels, as this reduces the effectiveness of the use of studs;
- Sharpening self-tapping screws must be cut off a little, leaving NOT more than 5 mm;
- To use bolts, it is necessary to choose washers with a height of NOT more than 1 cm;
- If there is no reinforced tape, you can use an old camera cut lengthwise;
- Using a tire chain is recommended for thin wheels. Spikes must be used on wide tires;
- The use of spikes is not suitable for tubeless tires, this reduces their tightness and makes the device unusable;
- The chain can only be used on one wheel, preferably on the rear. This will help you ride on ice more comfortably.
Putting it all together again
After checking the chamber (it should be fully inflated outside the wheel to make sure that all damage has been repaired), you can assemble the wheel and reinstall it.
- We check the insulating tape inside the rim (usually It is not fixed or it is easy to move during manipulation).
- Carefully put the bicycle tube inside the rim, starting from the valve and make sure that no kinks appear.
- With the help of assemblies, similarly to removal, we “fill” the tires in place. Before that, it is recommended to pump up the chamber a little so that it does NOT press against the rim.
The wheel is assembled, we pump it completely for testing and proceed with the installation. For the front wheel, pay attention to the arrow markings on the tires, which are sometimes supplemented by the Drive lettering. This is the direction in which the wheel should turn. Install with the appropriate side so that the protector works correctly.
Rubber with large tread
In order to make studded rubber at home, it is necessary to prepare tires that have a deep tread and small self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws for wood are most often used).
When the components are prepared, you need to do the following:
- On the back of the tire, using a marker, you must indicate the places where the studs will be placed;
- Using a 3 mm drill, make a hole for the thorn;
- Using a screwdriver, screw the self-tapping screw into the hole, while the spike should NOT stick out to the side, but be placed at an angle of 90 degrees;
- The self-tapping screw should be screwed in immediately after working with a drill;
- After all the studs have been installed, it is necessary, using a special reinforced tape, to glue the inner tires often to prevent the studs from falling out while driving;
- Check the tires and install it on the bicycle wheel.
This type of installation does not take a lot of time. Most often, the spikes are installed at an equal distance from each other.
How to protect your bike tires?
There is nothing that can 100% protect your bike tires from damage. But you can use a number of tips on the site so that the tires let you down as rarely as possible. you will worry less about the integrity of the tire less often patches on them.
How to change the camera in a bicycle wheel | Camera replacement
How to change the camera in a bicycle wheel | Camera replacement
Probably the most common breakdown in a Veloman is a punctured wheel, especially if he is riding in an aggressive style. It ran over the glass, then on a nail, and sometimes jumped over the curb at speed. Experienced cyclists can change the camera in a bicycle with their eyes closed, but what about a beginner, even a wheel cannot be removed,
can not change the camera. The main thing is not to despair if you travel a long distance (or better always) carry a pump, a spare chamber, or, in extreme cases, a “Velo first aid kit” for the wheel. Someday she will save you from pulling the bike “on yourself”.
So, if you have a punctured wheel, first you need to get off the bike, in no case DO NOT continue driving on a flat tire. Firstly, you will tear the tube even more, secondly, you can ruin the tires, and in the worst case, also the rim.
How to change the camera on a bike
1) If the wheel has not completely lowered, lower it to the end, to do this, unscrew the cap of the nipple (spool). If you have a nipple (spool) (the same as in the car), press something sharp on the small button in the middle and hold until you deflate the wheel. If you have a spool key cap simply Unscrew it. If you have a nipple (spool) (such as in old bicycles), unscrew the lamb and remove it.
2) Remove the wheel. If the wheel is on the eccentric, removal will NOT be difficult, if not, then you will need keys (depending on the bike and wheel 13-17).
3) If you have “mounts” Use them to remove the rim from the wheel, if you have a mount, you can use a handy tool (wrenches, etc.), but it is advisable NOT to use objects with sharp edges. this can damage the camera or rim. Tuck the tires with your tool and pushing against the rim, press down on the bottom until the edge of the tire does NOT crawl out of the rim, then take the second key or assembly and do this action again, while DO NOT take out the first key when you feel that the keys DO NOT lean back when you release them. just try to slide the second key in a circle around the side of the first key.
4) Take out the camera, just took it with your fingers. Take on the opposite side of the nipple (spool).
5) In principle, you can insert a new camera, but I recommend removing the tires completely (this can be done with your hands or with the Edger (keys)). And check the condition of the rim if there are any metal burrs inside, check the condition of the rim tape, look inside the tires. (This action should be especially done if you change cameras very often and DO NOT know where you could punch a wheel)
How to install a camera in a bicycle wheel
1) Take a new camera or a sealed one (how to glue a camera), squeeze it with one hand and swipe it in a circle. this will help clean it of unwanted foreign objects (pieces of rubber, metal shavings, etc.)
2) Inflate it slightly, if you removed the tires completely, put it on one rib (if the rubber is directional. Make sure you install it correctly (you can see it on the Rear wheel if the treads are the same)). Approximately Mark where the hole from the nipple (spool) is to put the tube into the tires without twisting or breaking it. Insert the spool (nipple) into the hole and screw on the cap.
3) With your hands (if the tire is soft) or using the same tool, put the second edge of the tire onto the rim. Be careful if using a tool rather than tearing the camera.
4) Immediately slightly inflate the wheel and roll it so that the camera settles down, then inflate the wheel to the desired pressure (how to find out how much pressure you need to inflate the wheel)
5) Put the wheel on the bike and clamp it.
6) ALWAYS check the brakes.
What valves are
There are three main types of ventilators:
1) Velonipel (French)
2) Auto Diesel (American)
3) Nipple as in old bicycles (German)