How to properly tighten a wheel on a bicycle

How to properly fix the wheels on the eccentric?

Installation of wheels, depending on the method of fastening, is carried out in different ways. The mounting methods for traditional and adjustable eccentrics are very similar in many ways, but will be discussed separately.

Types of eccentrics

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The variety of bicycle eccentrics is amazing. there are two of them:

  • Traditional.
  • Adjustable (Clix).

The basic design of both types is similar. it is a combination of the following:

  • Shaft axle inserted into the wheel hub.
  • Adjusting nut. Calibrates the required axle length.
  • Clamping disc. The working unit through which the fixation of the fastened element (wheel, seatpost) is carried out.
  • Eccentric. Locking lever equipped with an offset pinch shaft.

How to attach bicycle wheels to the eccentric?

Simplicity and ease of operation and maintenance is one of the main trends of the present, and this is reflected in many spheres of human activity: in work and rest.

Various devices and attachments make it easy to get the desired result without much effort.

The world of fastening connections in the velomir also did not stand aside. A fastener has appeared, which, due to its design, can do without a special tool. this is an eccentric.

What is a bicycle eccentric?

The eccentric type of attachment has appeared relatively recently, but has firmly taken its place. It is mainly used in fastening bicycle wheels, seat posts, and in folding veloram designs.

In addition to their main duties, eccentrics are used in attaching various additional bicycle accessories, where clamps are present.

Wheel fixing with a simple eccentric

  • The fastening lever is transferred to the open state “Open”.
  • The wheel is installed in the dropouts so that the hub fits snugly against the inner area of ​​the bicycle fork stays.
  • We transfer the eccentric lever to the adjustment state: intermediate between “Open” and “Close”.
  • Do not tighten the adjusting nut tightly, leaving a small gap.
  • We transfer the eccentric to the “Close” position.
  • When manipulating the lever, tactile resistance should be observed.
  • If the resistance is insurmountable, then it is necessary to unscrew the adjustment nut one turn.
  • If the growl closes without effort, then the adjustment nut must be tightened.

The applied force to close the eccentric should not be lower than 5-6 kg (54 N) and above 20 kg (200 N).

When closing the eccentric, make sure that the levers, when closed, do not touch or interfere with other elements of the bike (shields, trunk, etc.).

After fixing the wheel, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics:

  • The eccentric lever must not rotate around its axis.
  • The wheel must rotate strictly in its plane and be securely fixed.

To check the fixation, raise the bike and hit the wheel from above.

How to twist the eccentric?

Due to the slight difference in the design of the traditional and adjustable eccentric, their installation differs only in some nuances, but more on that later.

In general, to install the eccentric in place, you need:

  • Set the locking lever to the “Open” position.
  • Calibrate the length of the shaft axis with the adjusting nut. Tighten it so that there is a small gap.
  • Move to the adjustment state, intermediate position between “Open” and “Close”. Set the equipment to be attached to the desired position.
  • Close the lever, i.e. move it to the “Close” position.
  • Check the reliability of fixation. in the “Close” position, the lever should not rotate.

Advantages and disadvantages of eccentrics

The main reason for the appearance of this fastener is convenience and ease of use. In order to dismantle or fix this or that equipment, you do not need wrenches, and in time it will take a few seconds. In terms of reliability and tightening force, the eccentric is not inferior to traditional nut fasteners.

The advantages of eccentrics:

  • It is difficult to underestimate them on the road, when there is a need to quickly dismantle a wheel to fix it.
  • When adjusting the saddle in height with simultaneous centering relative to the bike frame, this fastener is indispensable.
  • Not everyone likes to carry around a set of wrenches. It is not as difficult as it is not aesthetically pleasing: to ride with clattering keys in a pouch.

Cons of eccentric design:

  • Unlike a conventional nut, this design is more complex, and therefore more susceptible to shock absorption.

With prolonged use, the eccentric springs weaken, and the fastening becomes unreliable.

In practice, of course, no one has lost the wheel, but the consequences will not be slow to declare themselves. The main one is a violation of the adjustment of the brakes, first of all, disc.

It is possible to identify the loosening of the fastening by changing the wheel travel. a backlash appears.

Arriving at the parking place of the two-wheeled “horse”, you can find only a fastened frame with a steering wheel. Good wheels and a high-quality saddle with a seatpost are a great trophy for “dishonest” colleagues.

Wheel fastening with a “Clix” eccentric

In contrast to the traditional mechanism, where the power clamp must be adjusted at each dismantling, the “Clix” system with its design allows you to use once made adjustment always.

However, this design feature of the mechanism does not allow the once-adjusted eccentric to be used on other bicycle forks or with different wheels.

Clix Wheel Installation Procedure

  • We transfer the eccentric to the “Open” position. We press the mechanism cup with the eccentric lever and firmly insert the wheel into the bike dropouts.
  • We transfer the eccentric to the “Close” fixing position. When closing the fastening mechanism, the eccentric lever is not allowed to rotate, as this can lead to a deterioration in the quality of fastening.

In advance, i.e. before fixing the eccentric, set the lever in such a position that, after closing it, it does not interfere with or come into contact with other elements of the bike.

Check that the wheel is securely fastened in the same way as for fastening with a traditional eccentric.

Summing up, it should be mentioned that the development of bicycle eccentrics is not over.

In some designs, for safety reasons, hex keys are used instead of levers, and in others, the locking lever is equipped with secrets, for example, opening the eccentric only in an inverted position (bicycle on the handlebar and saddle).

Dismantling sequence

Before removing the front wheel from the bike, it is necessary to get rid of the bike itself of all accessories and additional devices, so as not to damage them under the weight of the structure during the dismantling process.

  • We turn the bike upside down, put it on a stand for repair. Or, in the absence of a special rack, simply on a handlebar with a saddle.
  • Now you need to decide on the type of brake system installed on the bike.
  • Disc brakes won’t be a hassle when removing a wheel. The only thing to consider is that hydraulic brakes do not like the inverted position, because air can enter the system. In this case, the brakes will have to be pumped after all the procedures performed with your bike.
  • The rim brakes will need to be unfastened before removing the structure from the mounts. To do this, squeeze the levers with your hands and remove the end of the cable from the clamp, then spread the levers to the sides.
  • The hub axle is attached to the fork by means of an eccentric or nuts. In the first case, you just need to unscrew the eccentric, unscrew and remove the wheel from the ends of the fork, gently pulling it up. In the second, unscrew the nut with a wrench; for convenience, during unscrewing, you can hold it with a second wrench.

After the wheel is removed, you can continue to carry out the necessary work with it, for which it, in fact, was removed.

What does the wheel consist of?

Bicycle wheels are the most conservative component. Of course, there are models on cast disks, all-round wheels are put on track models, but they are in the minority. Still, the majority of bicycles are equipped with spoke wheels.

  • ordinary sleeve;
  • rim;
  • connecting knitting needles;
  • rim protective tape (flipper);
  • camera and tire;
  • disc (on models with disc brakes).
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The hub is the axial part of the wheel, it is an assembly of the central axle, bearings and tapered retainers. Cone bearing systems are most often mounted on bushings with open type bearings. They can also be equipped with sealed bearings or slips.

Rim. supporting structure, metal ring. The rims are made mostly of aluminum, with carbon rims being used on expensive models. In terms of rigidity and power, they are divided into three types:

  • single-walled. the outer and inner surfaces have one line of contact (jumper);
  • double. the inner surface is attached to the sidewalls, separated from the outer;
  • triple. the strongest and most durable option: the inner wall is also fixed to the sidewalls, but, unlike the double rim, the triple rim has an additional wall in the middle.

Vertical bridges form channels running in the direction of rotation. According to the number of such channels, modern rims are divided into one, three- and five-piece:

Spokes. elements connecting the hub to the rim. They perform the functions of securing, distributing loads along the rim and central axis and mitigating vibrations during movement. The rim is perforated, each hole is designed to hold one spoke. The number of spokes is set on a bicycle wheel in multiples of four. Depending on the model, their number varies. from 28 to 40 on average.

The number of spokes for the front wheel is usually less than the number for the rear. This is due to the fact that the bulk of the load falls on the rear of the bike, and there the wheel must be stronger.

  • standard (rolled). constant circular cross-section along the entire length from the bushing attachment to the tip;
  • aerodynamic (blade-like). elliptical or rectangular profile;
  • variable cross-section (pulled). standard cross-section at the heads and tapering towards the middle.

The inner tube is the inside of the tire that holds the pressurized air inside. Tire. the outer shell, in contact with the road, absorbs bumps, protects the camera. The tire is made of a harder rubber than the tube.

Rim tape, or flipper, is a rubber lining under the tube to protect it from puncture on the spoke tips. Dynamic loads force the walls of the chamber to bend, which causes them to be pressed against the rim surface. Without a flipper, the camera can be pushed into the hole with the spoke tip. This problem is more pronounced on the rear wheel, where the loads are higher, but the presence of a flipper is mandatory on the front. The torn tape must be replaced with a new one. A proven homemade option. glue the rim with several layers of electrical tape, except for the hole for the nipple.

How to correctly install the wheels on the eccentric

To correctly install the wheels on the eccentrics, you need to adhere to the following sequence of actions:

  • turn the bike with its wheels up, placing it in a position convenient for work;
  • move the eccentric lever to the “open” position;
  • insert the wheel into the dropouts (wheel sockets);
  • tighten the adjusting nut at the opposite end of the eccentric;
  • set the eccentric lever in the “close” position;
  • check the quality of wheel rotation.

If, during installation, the lever closes easily, the nuts, of course, need to be tightened further. Free play of the eccentric lever indicates that the mounts are not completely secured, ideally, its movement should be a little difficult. Installing the front wheel on a bike with an eccentric, if necessary, can be done independently on the way.

The eccentric for the rear wheel of a bicycle can be a type of attachment in the form of an assembly called an eccentric bicycle bottom bracket. It provides a connection between the frame and the rotary mechanism using bearings, pressed into the frame glass.

Checking tires

If you drove on broken glass, small stones, and so on, do not be too lazy to get off the bike and check if a foreign object is stuck in the tires, which can damage the camera in the future. When examining, in order not to injure your hands, it is better to use a handkerchief or a thick napkin.

And in general, make it a rule to arrange regular wheel inspections.

Inspect your wheels regularly so you don’t get a surprise one day

Tubeless tires

Tubeless tires are another good way to avoid punctures on your bike. If you have such, fill them with sealant. This is a special liquid, which, in the event of a puncture under high pressure inside the tire, is directed to the puncture site and hermetically “seals” the hole.

With this technology, you may not even feel / know that you have pierced. That’s cool. But not cheap. And yes, it’s worth noting: there are such serious punctures that even a sealant does not help.

In the latter case, he will elegantly stain your new bike uniform and anything that gets in his way.

Ever Tires

Another way to avoid punctures on your bike is to use Ever Tires. These are airless tires, with which the bicycle owner can safely run over nails without fear of puncturing the wheel. What technology is and how it works. find out in the following video:

How to avoid punctures on your bike: 8 tips

Sooner or later we will all be punctured. And more than once. But to make this happen as rarely as possible, follow the tips described below.

Use butyl cameras

How to avoid punctures on your bike. Use butyl tubes. The idea is that these are more difficult to pierce due to their high elasticity. Another plus. they hold air better and wear out less. But there is also an obvious disadvantage: such cameras are more expensive.

Anti-puncture tires

The most famous of these is the Marathon from Schwalbe. The downside is that any protection adds weight, so you need to find a balance between the mass of the tire and its protection.

Schwalbe Marathon bicycle tire

“Leading” needles.

Leading needles are those that point in the direction of rotation. They are shown in shades of blue in the illustrations. They are also called “tense” or “static”

Three-cross knitting option

Spitsovka in the 4th of the cross (the same, only you move the knitting needle further and cross it with the fourth)

Rotate the wheel again so that the sprocket side faces you. Insert a spoke into any hole in the flange, but this time from the inside of the flange. Turn the bushing clockwise until it moves freely. Since we are assembling the wheel into three crosses, this spoke will intercept the three “tail” spokes that go to the same flange.

For the first two crossings, this spoke must go outside the tail spokes. The last stop must be with an overlap, that is, this spoke will pass from the inside of the tail spoke. You will have to bend this “lead” spoke so that it passes from the back of the “tail” spoke.

There will be two holes in the rim where this spoke can be inserted after it crosses the three tail spokes. Install it in the hole on the same side of the rim as the side of the flange from where the spoke comes out. This hole must not be adjacent to where the tail spoke on the same side of the flange comes out.

Install the remaining 17 “leading” spokes, following the same rules.

If you are unable to reach the corresponding nipple with a spoke, check that the tail spokes are correctly positioned. When you are finished, check again that the spokes on the rim go either to the right or to the left side of the flange strictly through one.

DIY bike wheel spacing

If you want the bike to move with primary agility even after an impressive run, re-spacing the wheel of a bicycle is one of the ways to increase ride comfort and help your beloved vehicle gain a second youth. Although the process takes at least 2-3 hours, the result will surpass even the most ambitious expectations, so get to work as soon as possible.

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Rearranging bike wheels is a good way to improve ride comfort

Preparation.

  • Thread Lubrication The threads on the spokes and the holes in the rim should be lubricated with a light grease or light oil so that the nipples can rotate easily enough to tighten the spokes tightly. Lubrication is not as important today as it used to be when rims, spokes and nipples weren’t made from the high quality materials they are now. But, nevertheless, it should not be neglected. For a rear wheel with a large umbrella, only the spokes on the right side should be lubricated. On the left side, the spokes will remain loose enough anyway, and additional lubrication can cause the spokes to loosen on their own while riding.
  • Padding a wheel It is best to “stuff” a wheel while sitting with the rim on your lap. People who spend all day assembling wheels start by passing all the spokes through the flange and then pushing them into the rim one at a time. This method is somewhat faster for mass wheel assembly. It’s easier for beginners to make mistakes.

It is easier to secure the spokes to the rim in groups, one group at a time. A traditional wheel has four sets of spokes. Half of the spokes come from the right hub flange, half from the left.

Rear shift wheels should be padded so that the tail spokes are on the inside of the flange. There are three reasons for this:

  • At the point of intersection closest to the rim, the spokes are bent relative to each other. Torque, especially in low gears, straightens the tail spokes a little, and the leading spokes bend even more. When the wheel is assembled so that the “tail” spokes pass along the outer side of the flange, the intersection of the spokes comes closer to the derailleur, and in some cases the spokes can touch the derailleur only under load. it is more likely that the chain will bounce off the sprocket when pedaling backwards during braking)
  • In the event that, due to poor adjustment of the derailleur, the chain will jump off the large sprocket, then the chain will probably be pinched more between the cassette and the spokes if the spokes are inclined so that they tend to jam the chain under load
  • If the chain comes off the large sprocket, it can damage and weaken the spokes that the chain will come into contact with. Since the tail spokes are tighter under load than the lead spokes, it is better to protect them by placing them on the inside of the flange.

Selecting the Right Needle Length

Selecting the right spoke length for your bike determines the functionality of the front wheel. Even more surprises are hidden in the rear rim. different speeds are fixed on it, which makes centering the spokes difficult. All components must have different lengths, depending on the angle of inclination, which must also be correctly calculated.

To calculate the length of the knitting needles, experts recommend using calculators that will allow you to calculate all the characteristics online.

How To Check Over Your MTB Wheels | Mountain Bike Maintenance

Spoke torsion deformations.

As the spokes in the wheel tighten, torsional deformations begin to appear. Due to friction in the threaded connection, when the spoke wrench is turned, the spoke twists slightly at first. When the nipple is rotated far enough, the torsional resistance exceeds the thread friction, and the nipple begins to rotate, but the spoke remains twisted. A good mechanic, unlike an assembly machine, can sense the magnitude of this deformation. If you tune the wheel perfectly, but the spokes remain deformed, the wheel will lose its shape while riding. This will happen because over time, the knitting needles will return to their normal position.

This phenomenon can be avoided by skillfully working with a spoke wrench. You need to turn the nipple a little more than necessary and then move it back a little. In other words, if you need to tighten the nipple 1/4 of a turn, you turn it a little more than 1/4 and then push it back a little. Thus, the nipple is turned by 1/4 of a turn, and the torsional deformations are removed from the spoke.

This technique is easier with constant cross-section needles, since they have higher torsional stiffness than variable cross-section needles.

I love the aerodynamic spokes because they visually show torsional deformations, not because of their aerodynamics.

Wheel assembly, lacing

Types of knitting

Experts note only two methods of spokes on a bicycle wheel with their own hands:

  • Radial option. allows you to assemble a wheel located in front of the base if rim brakes are planned to be mounted on it. The main disadvantage of this spacing method is that a weighty load is transferred to the wheel vertically. The advantage of the radial method is the pleasant appearance of the wheel, it looks neat and does not require additional tuning.
  • Cross knitting is a universal method that involves a combination of knitting needles with a cross. Perhaps the appearance suffers, but due to the “overlap”, the rim can brake quickly. Even if a sudden stop is required, the load is applied to the stretching of the spokes, which does not harm the structure at all.
  • Mixed lacing is a rare type that combines the two previous methods.

Adjusting the bushings or how to overcome the “backlash

When there are already many kilometers behind, then any technique needs maintenance and adjustment. You are already accustomed to the sounds that your bike makes when riding, but if you take it by the frame and again abruptly lower it to the ground, but you hear not only the usual tinkling of the chain, but also a dull thumping is not clear from where, then it’s time to check the bike for backlash! It is not at all difficult to detect backlash. It can appear in the steering column, bottom bracket or wheel hubs. With one hand we will hold the bike by the frame, and with the other hand we will try to swing the wheel from the side.

If the wheel rim sways in the frame or fork from side to side and a tapping is heard in the hub, then the cones need to be adjusted. Most bicycle hubs have loose bearings. This means that there is a track in the sleeve, into which balls are poured and pressed by a cone. The compression of these cones will just need to be adjusted.

To adjust the cones, it is recommended to stock up on special adjusting keys. They differ from ordinary keys in their thickness. Adjustment of the front and rear wheels is carried out in the same way (the front is a little easier to adjust due to the lack of a cassette with stars). First you need to remove the wheel from the bike. Open the eccentric lever and loosen the nut on the opposite side.

Then completely pull the eccentric clamp out of the sleeve. The main thing here is not to lose the small springs that make it easier to install the wheel in the frame. Now you need to remove the rubber anthers from the bushing (we remove both anthers at once from the front, and the one on the left from the rear). Do this carefully so that the anthers remain intact. If the boot sits tightly, then you can pry it off with a thin, not pointed object.

Now take the keys and open the cone. To do this, rotate the lock nut counterclockwise, holding the cone with the second wrench. Start with the cone located on the left in the direction of travel (this does not apply to the front rim brake hub, as it is symmetrical).

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When the locknut is turned out almost to the end, we unscrew the cone after it.

Now we push the axle to the right side of the hub so that there is access to the right cone and locknut (in the case of the front wheel, this is not required, since the cones on both sides can be adjusted simply by removing the anthers).

It is necessary to counter the right cone just in case. After all, it is possible that backlashes appeared precisely because of this cone. To do this, holding the cone with one key, turn the lock nut clockwise with the second key.

Pull the left cone and locknut back to the bushing by hand. Now let’s use one little trick. We take an eccentric with a nut, but without springs, and insert it into the bushing so that the eccentric lever is on the side of the cassette.

Then we pull the wheel to the frame as shown in the photo and begin to tighten the cone with a wrench, immediately checking how the wheel is spinning. When the wheel rotates freely and without play, we begin to tighten the locknut, again holding the cone from rotation.

With this method of adjustment, it is important not to apply excessive force, otherwise there is a risk of spoiling the eccentric. But on the other hand, this way you can adjust the cone even alone, being away from home and workshop. If, after adjustment, the bearings are overtightened and the wheel moves in jerks, then this means that the cone should be loosened by loosening the locknut again and unscrewing the cone by half a turn. Achieve smooth rotation and after tuning, remember to counter the taper!

Now we install the wheel in place, not forgetting to install the rubber boots and give the eccentric its usual position. when the lever is to the left of the bike. And the most important thing. springs! If they are still not lost, install them before tightening the eccentric. Now your bike will once again delight you with quiet operation and good handling.

Pros and Cons over Nut Fasteners

Most modern models have switched to an eccentric because it is convenient. It is the ease of handling that is the main quality of such an attachment. In terms of tightening torque, it is comparable to standard nuts. Of course, with 100% serviceability of the mechanism.

  • It is easy to dismantle the wheel if the tube is punctured. Also, the wheel is quickly put back on.
  • Convenient saddle height adjustment. When tightening the nuts, aligning it strictly in the center is problematic.
  • No wrenches or tools required.

Obviously, the clamping time will take less than the double-sided tightening of the nuts on the axles of the wheel hubs.

  • The spring weakens over time, making the fastening unreliable.
  • Frame impact resistance on a folding bike is worse.
  • The wheel can easily be stolen in the parking lot.
  • If the bike is attached to the parking tube with a rim, there is a risk of finding only it upon returning.

It is necessary to apply additional safety measures to the bicycle on the street, the main of which is not to leave it for a long time. Wheels with eccentric fastening can be equipped with bollards, and the frame can be fastened with a separate lock. When the eccentric does not hold well, it must be changed. Wheels, this applies first of all!

Types of eccentrics

There are two types of clamping mechanisms for fastening the wheel hub of a bicycle: traditional and adjustable (Clix).

A typical model consists of several components:

  • Shaft axis fixed inside the bushing.
  • Disk.
  • Nut for tightening and loosening.
  • Locking lever.

The Clix differs from the traditional mechanism by having a cup, pusher and a lock button on top of the pull nut. This more extended model allows for adjustment to the fork dimensions for the front wheel and the chainstay width when installing the rear.

The locking button is needed to rigidly fix the width of the eccentric, the pusher and the cup act as a clamp. Before installing the Clix on another bike, you must first adjust it, otherwise, due to the difference in size, the wheel will not firmly adhere to the frame.

The eccentric bike clamp must be handled correctly. So it will last longer, and the part will be securely fixed to the frame. The installation of a traditional and clix eccentric is slightly different, so we will consider both methods of fastening.

What is a bike eccentric

The bicycle eccentric is a clamping fastening mechanism. It got its name from the word “eccentricity”, which in this case is a mismatch between the axes of rotation of the shaft and the disk attached to it. This is what makes it possible to convert the rotary movement of the nut into translational. To create a tightening force, springs are mounted on the eccentric. Opposite-end lever firmly locks nut position and spring compression.

This type of mount has become widely used on recent bicycles. Typical uses of the part are attaching wheels to dropouts, joining frame parts on a foldable model, attaching a saddle and adjusting saddle height. Clamps for reflectors, handlebar stems, additional awnings are also supplied with eccentrics.

How to correctly install the wheels on the eccentric

To begin with, the lever is moved to the “Open” position. The wheel is inserted into the dropouts so that the axle is in contact with the inner surfaces of the sockets (dropouts). Wheel installation, whether it is a standard mount or an eccentric one, is necessary in the “lying” position of the bike. with the wheels up.

We pass from the lever to the other end. the adjusting nut. We rotate it all the way, then loosen it a little to give free play to the lever when fixing. Next, we transfer it to the opposite position. Eccentric closed.

The lever movement when closing the mount should be slightly difficult. If it moves easily, switch it back to “Open” and tighten the nut. Conversely, when the adjusting screw is tightened too tightly, the latch may not fully come down. Then you should loosen the nut a little.

A common mistake is rotating the lever instead of the nut. You just need to hold it, but in no case twist it. And the last step is to check the attachment. This should be done on the road, when the wheel may fall off inadvertently, and in the parking lot: hit the wheel with force on the floor, and then spin it at high speed. If there is no hesitation, everything is fine.

How to install and adjust the Clix eccentric.

  • Set the lever to the “Open” position.
  • Squeeze the cup and insert the sleeve into the dropouts.
  • Clamp the lever to the opposite position. It should run with little resistance, just like a traditional eccentric.
  • Check the attachment: hit the wheel and turn it. It shouldn’t wobble or slide.

It is not recommended to rotate the lever at the same time as the fastening nut, and the lock should not rotate when the eccentric is already closed.

Wheelbuilding: How to Tension a Wheel

  • Open lever.
  • Tighten the adjusting nut almost completely. The marks on the axle and the retainer must match.
  • In this position, the lever is transferred to “Close”.
  • Lock nut travel with button.

Now you can safely put the wheels on the frame.

Lightweight, practical and unpretentious eccentric bindings make the daily life of the cyclist much easier. They are very easy to use, easy to adjust and relatively durable when used correctly.