How to properly tension your bike chain

How to tension and adjust a bicycle chain

An important element for the bike’s performance is the chain, the life of which depends on timely care. When working, it should not crack and creak. It is normal that in the process of operation it gradually wears out and, as a result, lengthens. When adjusted correctly, the chain should have a slack of 10-12 mm. When pulling with your fingers, it should give in by 10-15 mm, and if this value is greater, then it must be pulled. Note that this is only relevant for bicycles or without derailleurs, or with planetary gears.

It is also important to adjust the tension when installing a new chain. Even more important is to tighten it after the first three arrivals. A new part stretches very quickly during the first time of operation.

Bike Tension Adjustment Without Gears

A properly tensioned chain on a bike without speeds should be slightly free by an amount of sag of about 5 mm.

To tighten the chain on a regular speed bike, you need to:

  • Put your transport wheels upside down.
  • Loosen the nuts or eccentrics of the rear wheel.
  • Adjust the correct amount of chain slack by sliding the wheel along inclined slots called dropouts.

It is necessary to fix the rear wheel only in the position when its axis is parallel to the carriage shaft.

When the chain is too tight, it becomes very difficult to pedal on the bike, the parts of the chain drive wear out quickly. Whereas the sagging chain can jump off the stars, and it will definitely be impossible to go further.

If the wheel is already against the edge of the dropouts, there is nowhere else to move it, and the chain belt is still dangling, then you will need to remove a couple of links.

Adjusting the bike with speeds

The amount of chain tension on a bike with a rear parallelogram derailleur is determined entirely by the force of the derailleur spring. But if the chain is too long, then this tensioner will not be able to compensate for its slack, and it will begin to hit the frame. This is especially true for bicycles with a short rear thrower. Too short chain makes gear shifting difficult. It will cause accelerated wear of transmission parts. This primarily applies to two-suspension bicycles.

Very often, when installing a new chain on a high-speed bike, it is necessary to shorten its length, that is, remove several links.

There are two ways to determine how many links to remove:

  • Place the chain on the largest sprockets at the front and rear. Pull on it while pushing the rear derailleur all the way forward. Now it only remains to add two links, and the optimal length will be determined.
  • Place the chain on the front of the largest sprocket and on the back of the smallest sprocket. Tighten the chain until the frame of the rear derailleur points straight down, more precisely, when the axles of the derailleur rollers become in one vertical line.

On double suspensions, it will be more correct to adjust the chain length by pressing the rear swingarm down to the position where the front sprocket cassette is as far away from the rear ratchet as possible. By marking the desired length, extra links can be removed.

Removing links

Collapsible chains are placed on a regular bicycle without speeds; they have a lock on one of the links. Most modern speed bikes use non-separable chains with all the links riveted equally well. It is not difficult to disassemble a one-piece riveted chain, you just need to grind the heads of the pins on one of its links on emery. It is even easier and more accurate to disconnect the rivets using a special tool. squeeze.

It should be noted that pomace is a versatile tool. With its help, you can not only squeeze out the locking pin, but also re-rivet the disassembled chain. Many squeezes have two working grooves: one is needed for pressing the pin out of the roller, and the other for pressing it in. A mounting location farther from the pressure screw is for ripping the chain pins. You can learn more about using such a tool in the following video.

Chain slip

The chain starts to slip when the tension is released due to its extreme tension. And being overstretched, it, in turn, quickly wears out the sprockets. So by putting a new chain on an old ratchet, you may not achieve anything. All the same, slipping on small stars will remain.

If this is not the first time you pull up the old chain, get ready to replace it soon. Remember that you can only remove two links from it once. In the end, you still have to spend money on a new part.

How to properly tension your bike chain and why it matters

There is no special science in shifting gears on a bicycle; at first glance, everything is simple. Two levers on the left, two on the right, or even just a grip-shift. what could be easier. But nevertheless, observing novice cyclists, one may notice not entirely correct and coordinated actions. But consistency when cycling is the most important thing! This is the only way you will be able to move as efficiently as possible on a bicycle, make maneuvers, overcome obstacles.

As an example, we will consider the most ordinary mountain bike (MTB) with three stars in front and 8-9 in the back.

Let’s immediately highlight the most common errors and problems:

  • Too heavy gear is a common mistake. Many newbies even say that 44 (or even 48) stars in front are not enough for them. It’s a delusion. Constantly spinning a heavy gear you are simply killing your knees. Try to keep track of your cadence (cadence) until it becomes automatic. You can even count the number of revolutions per minute for fun. If about 90-100, then this is very good. And so, gear 44-11 is enough to accelerate on the plain to

60 km / h. So try to convince those who say that 44 stars are not enough for the city. By doing this, you may help to keep people healthy.

  • Curve transmission. it is not uncommon to observe how people, without looking at the chain, include gears like 3-1.2. In this case, the chain goes to bend, its wear increases, at the wrong moment it can simply fly off. The optimum chain position is when it passes from the chainring to the rear with minimal skew. So be sure not only to make it easy to twist, but also the position of the chain.
  • Switching under load. so even fragile girls manage to break chains, what can we say about healthy men. And what a crunch at the same time. When shifting, reduce the load on the pedals to a minimum, just rotate them with ease until the chain jumps to the desired sprocket. Therefore, it always makes sense to assess the situation, possible obstacles and change gear in advance.
  • Chain biting is when the chain is pulled up by the chainrings when shifting. An unpleasant situation in which the nib near the carriage assembly may be severely scratched. This could be due to cogging on the star, dirt, improper assembly and setup. This is another plus to why you need to watch the shift, and not just mindlessly clicking the shifters. All movements should be smooth, even airy.
  • Chain skipping. for example, you put a new chain on an already similar cassette (by the way, the chain resource
  • 1500 km). As a result, when the load on the pedals increases, the chain slips and the pedals fail unpleasantly. This must be taken into account and travel more carefully until everything gets used to it. Even for a fairly strong cassette, the rubbing period is about 200 kilometers.

    If you are new to the saddle, pay a lot of attention to pedaling, shifting, try to work with both the front and rear derailleurs. Try to choose a gear depending on the maneuver being made. For example: you slow down, but you will need to accelerate for this. Shift the gear lighter even when braking, then it will accelerate faster.

    The clarity of gear shifting is highly dependent on the technical condition of the bike components. Monitor and, if necessary, replace the cables and shirts in time, the rear derailleur rollers, the switches themselves, the drive elements. the chain, cassette, front sprockets.

    properly, tension, bike, chain

    Pedaling: what are the problems and what are the causes

    If a malfunction occurs for the first time, it can be difficult to determine what exactly it is. Signs of a pedaling problem:

    • The wheel does not spin or does not spin enough;
    • The bike chain slips while riding;
    • Increase in freewheel.

    In general, the reasons why the pedals on the bike are spinning are:

    • Worn bike sprocket cranks. There is no need to undergo a technical inspection to establish this reason: the problem is obvious. When worn, the cranks on the sprocket appear worn and worn. A similar problem can arise from natural causes: the bike is simply old enough and already worn out. Or, while riding, the cyclist exerts too much force by applying excessive pressure on the pedals.
    • Why does the rear sprocket spin on a bike? The reason may also lie in the lack of regular technical inspection and insufficient washing: perhaps the sprocket on the bicycle is simply dirty.
    • Chain problem, which is one of the most common. The reason, as in the case of the wear of the sprocket cranks, may lie in the old age of the bike and not in regular maintenance. Perhaps the chain just needs washing and sufficient lubrication;
    • Rear ratchet problems can be due to several reasons. Many people sin by using too much oil or grease with an increased thickness. This could cause the ratchet to malfunction. It can also be caused by dirt and dust mixed with oil, or a broken bearing.

    Bicycle sprocket crank problems: what to do

    Once you’ve identified the source of the problem. the cranks. and figured out the cause, you can start fixing it. The simplest case is sprocket contamination. Just rinse the parts thoroughly, wipe with a dry, lint-free cloth and let dry. Never lubricate parts wet! After thoroughly drying, you can lubricate with special oil. An important point: there should not be too much grease, otherwise it will again lead to malfunctions.

    If the sprocket is “lapped”, then it must be removed, disassembled, cleaned of dirt. A worn sprocket may need to be replaced with a new one or its teeth sharpened. Even if the sprocket on the bike can be repaired, then it will not last long, so it is better to spend money on repairs right away. If you have never done anything like this before and you are worried about scrolling on the bike, repair is the best solution.

    Solving rear ratchet and chain problems on your bike

    As in the previous case, the ratchet must be thoroughly cleaned, dried and lubricated. perhaps this will be enough. If not, the wear problem of individual ratchet sprockets is solved by replacing them. In addition to sprockets for replacement at home, a key is purchased.

    Lubricate the chain after cleaning it, you need to drip a drop onto each (this is important) link of the part. Look carefully to see if the chain has bent links. If so, then they must be carefully brought back to their original position. If the chain is stretched or worn too much, then it must be replaced with a new part.

    In this case, you need to either use the bike until the problem is solved on its own (the chain reaches a certain level of wear), or (which is preferable), replace the entire transmission in a repair shop. A transmission is the mechanism that sets a bicycle in motion. It includes sprockets, chain and cassette (rear sprockets).

    What to do to avoid pedaling?

    Avoid greases that are too thick or old.

    As you can see, many problems with a bicycle, including pedaling, can be solved simply: often washing and lubricating the part is enough. But even if the reason lies in something more, the problem of scrolling is solved quite simply and everyone can do it. Do not forget to regularly wash and lubricate the “iron horse”, as well as regularly carry out maintenance, and your bike will delight you for a long time.

    Planetary hub

    Sometimes you will find derailleurs right inside the rear hub, unlike the familiar derailleurs that are attached to the cock and throw the chain over the cassette. This is a planetary hub. These bushings are most commonly seen on road bikes. The advantage of such bushings is that the switching takes place without sudden jumps in the chain, which is very convenient, besides, dirt does not get on the working parts, as a result of which the switching is not so dependent on the external environment. Also, switching in the planetary hub occurs without pedaling, which means that you can switch even while standing still. The disadvantage of such bushings is that they weigh a lot, and most importantly, it is difficult to find a service that can repair them, and even more so, they cannot be repaired on your own during the trip.

    READ  How The Wheels Of The Bike Should Be Inflated

    Road Switches

    Shimano also make SORA and TIAGRA road derailleurs. Speaking of shifters, it’s also worth touching on the shifters (the shifters on the handlebars). On children’s and budget bicycles, revolving shifters are often installed, the shifting of which is carried out by a simple rotation like the throttle on a motorcycle. The advantage of such shifters is that they have a low cost and you can quickly switch to several gears with one rotation of the brush. The downside is that it is difficult to switch to a certain gear, and there is a possibility of accidentally switching, inadvertently taking the wheel. Therefore, trigger shifters are the most common. It is very easy to change gears with such shifters. The two levers are under the index and thumb on Shimano, and both under the thumb on the Sram. Once you’ve ridden a bike with this shifting system, you’ll instantly know which lever is down and which is up. In addition, on road bikes there are switches on the frame, as well as combined with a brake lever.

    Saddle adjustment

    First of all, you need to adjust the height, angle of inclination and distance of the saddle to the physiological characteristics of the passenger.

    Many different methods have been developed to determine the correct saddle height. The most common and accessible to the average person is the heel method. To determine the saddle height using this technique, the following manipulations must be performed:

    • Place your foot in the shoe with your heel on the pedal. The pedal must be in the down position and parallel to the floor.
    • Set the height of the seat so that in the sitting position the leg standing on the pedal is almost completely straight at the knee, but at the same time the pelvis takes a horizontal position without distortion

    Correct distance from saddle to pedals

    That is, if the leg does not reach the pedal, then the saddle must be lowered, and vice versa, if it is strongly bent at the knee, it must be raised. The bicycle seat height adjustment is adjusted after loosening the seat bolt.

    It is imperative to remember that on the seatpost of any bike there is a mark for the maximum possible saddle extension, above which you should not raise the seat, as this is fraught with breakdowns for the bike and possible injuries for the passenger.

    Seat tilt. Usually the seat is installed either parallel to the ground, or slightly lifting the front or back of it up, depending on the individual characteristics of the cyclist. It should be borne in mind that if the saddle is strongly lifted up with the front end, then the passenger will roll back when moving, therefore, in order to maintain balance, he will have to use his arms and press.

    As a result of such a trip, pain in the muscles of the arms and abdomen may occur. Conversely, if you raise the rear of the saddle, the passenger will begin to roll forward onto the bike frame, which will also increase the load on the arms and add the possibility of unpleasant sensations in the crotch.

    Correct bike saddle position

    Adjust the distance of the saddle from the handlebar as follows:

    • It is necessary to loosen the seatpost
    • Move the bike saddle forward or backward so that the knee joint is exactly over the pedal axis. The pedal must be in a position parallel to the ground.
    • Fasten the seatpost

    Correct adjustment of the saddle in height, angle and distance is very important, as incorrect and inappropriate position for the rider has a significant impact on both speed and well-being of the cyclist.

    Interesting: How to return to training after a break

    So, when adjusting the saddle, you must take into account the individual characteristics of the anatomy of the passenger. But you should also take into account the riding style, for example, when driving at high speed, a lower saddle position will be justified than when driving quietly on the highway.

    Checking before departure

    Every time you are going to ride a bike, you must check the health of the vehicle.

    Checking the brakes

    • Spin the wheel after releasing the brake lever. The wheel should spin smoothly and not touch the brake pads
    • Inspect the brake pads. They should be located at a distance of 1 to 3 mm from the wheel rim, and close to it by the whole plane. Under no circumstances should the brake pads touch the tires.
    • Press and release the brake levers several times. They should not be too soft or too tight, rest against the steering wheel or sink
    • If the brakes are hydraulic, also inspect the cables and shirts.

    Option one. Correct

    This option is suitable for those who have a well-prepared and properly stored bike. So, let’s begin. You have a bicycle that was washed in the fall, the wheels were lowered, the cables of the switches and brakes were loosened, the chain was removed from it and stored in a bag, and it was wintering in a dry room.

    To begin with, simply wipe it with a slightly damp cloth, remove the accumulated dust that can get on the mechanisms, besides, it is just more pleasant to work with a clean and shiny bike. Next, we make a small plan of what we need to do:

    • Tidy up and put on the chain.
    • Check and tighten all tightening and securing bolts.
    • Check the “combat position” of the wheels.
    • Adjust and adjust the brakes.

    And now about all this in order.

    Option two. Wrong

    This option is possible in the event that you left a dirty, unprepared bike for the winter. When it was stored in conditions far from ideal, or maybe it stood all winter on the street. The first thing to do is wash it. It will be more difficult to do this now, because the dirt has dried, and the grease has frozen. But with the help of a sponge, warm water and car shampoo it is quite possible.

    After you have washed your “pet”, inspect its chain, it is most likely rusted and it would be better to simply replace it. But you can try to reanimate it by putting it in a rust remover with subsequent lubrication. You may also be upset by the condition of tires on wheels, they may crack, you will have to buy new ones.

    And now, when your bike has been washed, the rusty chain is put in order, and new tires are installed on it (well, or you were lucky and the old ones survived), then it’s time to follow all the recommendations that are given in the first version.

    That’s all the tricks, now all you have to do is ride your bike. The first trip should be done somewhere nearby. Check how everything works, whether there are any extraneous squeaks and vibrations. If something is wrong, it makes sense to contact the bike workshop.

    Also, do not forget about safety, over the winter the sense of the track has dulled a little, and it will take a couple of days until it recovers. And over the winter, motorists forget that you and I are also road users, so be careful, because we need a bicycle to get positive emotions, and not additional abrasions. I wish you health, vigor and new impressions from cycling!

    How to properly tension the chain on a bike

    Friends need to be loved. Even if they are two-wheeled. Such a relationship involves skilled caring for your friend. The chain is tensioned in the name of its safety and the life of the bike. Let’s analyze the question of how to tighten the bicycle chain correctly, quickly and efficiently.

    What types of bicycle chains are found

    All types of bicycles, regardless of their purpose, use the same chain design. Such a product is a single-row roller chain with a clearly marked pitch. 12.7 millimeters. over, a separate link includes:

    • outer plates;
    • internal elements;
    • pins;
    • rollers;
    • rollers.

    The main difference between the chains is based on whether the speed is great or not. The number of speed modes determines the availability of suitable sprockets. This, in turn, affects the width of the bike chain. Also, a characteristic variety will be the presence of a specific lock or its absence. It serves for easy removal of the chain and its re-installation.

    How is the process of tensioning the chain on a regular bicycle

    This term refers to a bicycle mechanism containing one rear sprocket. There is only one technology. to displace the rear wheel hub. The detailed process is described below.

    Before starting such a procedure, you need to make sure that the chain needs tightening. We carry out the usual test. Just pull the chain down as far as possible. If the lowering distance is more than 1.5 cm, then adjustment is necessary.

    The opposite situation. The chain didn’t pull back even 5 millimeters. It means that she is in a state of “guitar string” and needs immediate relaxation.

    • Putting the bike in a repair position, wheels up.
    • Bolts and other elements that serve to fix the rear wheel must be loosened (you do not need to completely unscrew).
    • We adjust the chain by moving the wheel in relation to the star.
    • Having made the required tension, we estimate the perpendicularity of the hub axis, focusing on the longitudinal axis of the bike itself.
    • We fix the wheel with fasteners.

    If, for some reason, such a procedure cannot be carried out, you need to use squeeze to remove unnecessary links and by this method achieve the desired parameters of the product. How to do it. described below.

    How to adjust the chain on a speedy bike view.

    A mountain, road or other type of bicycle that uses in its mechanism the ability to move the chain from star to star requires a separate method of chain tension. There is no permanent fixation in such a two-wheeled mechanism. The tensioning procedure is guaranteed by a spring located on the rear derailleur. When the chain starts to sag, your friend’s speed performance deteriorates and a knock is heard. If the chain is overtightened during the repair process, this leads to poor gear shifting and rapid wear of the stars.

    At the beginning of the entire repair procedure, it is worth determining the condition of the chain regarding sagging. This can be done in two ways.

    We set the speed to the maximum front chainring and the same rear. In the area of ​​the front sprocket, pull the chain towards the front wheel. As soon as the rear derailleur has reached the stop, we calculate the number of extra links. If there are two of them, then everything is normal. The rest of the indicators indicate that it is necessary to make adjustments.

    We position the speeds so that the maximum front chainring and the minimum rear chainring are used simultaneously. In this case, the roller that directs and the one that pulls the rear cross-over must be aligned along the axis and be perpendicular to the ground.

    The pull-up process consists in removing the links that turned out to be redundant. We will consider how to do this in a separate paragraph.

    When adjusting a speed bike, you can use a separate tool. the chain tensioner. Its main function is to manage rigidity and save its owner from unnecessary problems with the repair of the problem area.

    The mechanical version of the chain tensioner is mounted next to the rear derailleur. The uncomplicated design of such a device not only clearly fixes the chain, but also serves as protection against unforeseen collapse when pulled.

    The installation of the tensioner implies the simultaneous alignment of the device and the switch. The chain will run like clockwork: smooth and precise. But still, such a mechanism is not a panacea for the described problem. Sooner or later, you will have to carry out the process of removing the tensioner and adjust the chain by removing the links. Due to its physical properties, the chain will stretch over time, especially on a high-speed bike. But from the point of view of practicality, the purchase of a tensioner is necessary in order not to get into a difficult situation while traveling.

    Link Removal Process

    Consider a modern way of adjusting the chain length using a device. squeeze. Its low price more than compensates for all costs.

    The tool design includes two grooves. The first one squeezes the pin, the second one presses it in.

    • Choosing unnecessary links.
    • Insert one link into the squeeze and fix it with a retainer.
    • We start to rotate the crank and squeeze out the pin.
    • It doesn’t need to be squeezed out completely.
    • The formula of movement will be as follows: tight move. easy. hard again.
    • Disconnect the chain, leaving the pin on the plate.
    • We count the links and dismantle them.
    • The chain is connected in reverse order.
    • Press in the pin.
    • We carefully evaluate our work.

    There is a situation where the chain is stretched so much that removing the links does not have a sufficient effect. In this case, it is better to purchase a new product.

    Slippage is a result of a transmission defect.

    Part slippage occurs when the tension is weak. And the very weakness is the result of physical stretching. This, in turn, according to the domino principle, leads to increased wear of the stars.

    Therefore, if you installed a new chain or tightened the old one, you may not get the result. In this case, the stars also require replacement. Metal that is worn out cannot be restored.

    READ  How to Disassemble Bicycle Stealth Navigator

    If you have had to adjust the chain more than once by removing the links, you need to think about purchasing a new caterpillar. In the end it’s a matter of your safety.

    Negativeness due to improper chain repair

    Consequences can be conditionally divided into two types: for a person and for a bicycle. Consider how this threatens a two-wheeled friend.

    Any sagging lowers speed performance and increases the muscle cost to build speed. That is, if you have weakly tightened the chain, be prepared for the fact that it may break, and most importantly, it will begin to cripple the bike. Too much tension will quickly wear out the parts. Then replacing one chain is indispensable. In addition to the stars, spokes, bushings, their components and other parts suffer.

    For a person. The force that is transmitted to the wheels when pedaling in a stretched chain mode quickly leads to increased fatigue. The possibility of a long trip is actually reduced. Instead of your favorite rest, you can get road torment. According to statistics, the worst cases are cases of chain rally at speed while on the road. It’s not just injuries. This is the likelihood of death.

    Find your sport

    Chain loosening is a familiar phenomenon to all bicycle owners. Mainly the chain is loosened due to gear changes. When installing a new mechanism, it is necessary to tighten the chain after 2-3 cycling trips. Check the tension level by pulling the chain with fingers from 10 to 15 mm.

    Reasons for the chain break

    The mechanism fails in two cases:

    • Bending of a star on the system (front group of stars). In this case, it is possible to drive at a different speed, where there is no bent star. When using all speeds, it is highly recommended to replace the damaged part soon. In a collapsible system, only one bent star is replaced. Continuous system assumes complete replacement of the system along with the connecting rod.
    • With incorrectly set speeds. After making sure that the connecting rods are working, it is advisable to tune the speeds. The high-speed derailleurs (front and rear) are supplemented at the top with adjusting bolts to prevent over-the-top transmission. If the adjustment is incorrect, there is a high probability of a chain failure. If the mechanism flew off the main large sprocket, the L-bolt is screwed in (low implies easy transmission). It is screwed in to the parallel position of the stars on the switch of a relatively large star. By analogy, in reverse order from the smallest sprocket, the H-bolt (high. high gear) is screwed in to the parallel line of the 7th speed switch.

    If the front part of the chain with a small chain sags, the L-bolt should be tightened to the bike frame, the correct adjustment of which directly depends on the setting of the minimum speed on the bike. Screwing in continues until the distance from the inner chain of the derailleur to the chain is reduced to 1 mm. In case of serious damage and excessive wear, the chain must be replaced.

    Provided that the chain falls off a large sprocket, the H-bolt is screwed in, the adjustment of which is supposed to be at the highest speed. Tightens up to 1 mm distance from chain to outer frame of derailleur.

    Chain break

    If you switch the speed at the moment of loading, let’s say when climbing a mountain, a chain break is likely. When a chain break occurs, the link often breaks or breaks. If riveting occurs, you can try riveting the link again. Since this is done with a chain puller, it is advisable to keep the tool close at hand. If a link breaks down, it must be removed together with the adjacent one. Then the chain is riveted with a puller.

    Installing the bike chain is a simple job. It is enough to pull back the rear derailleur itself on the weakened chain and put it directly on the front sprocket.

    Tensioning the bike chain

    Ordinary bike

    To tighten the chain on a regular bike, you need to set the transport with the wheels up. This is the most comfortable position for loosening the rear wheel nuts. When unwinding, it is easy to set the optimum sag and tension of the bike chain. You need to move the wheel along the grooves. The mechanism is fastened only in a parallel position of the axis relative to the carriage shaft. The correct slack is 5 mm. When tightening the chain, there is difficulty in pedaling. Insufficient tension will cause the mechanism to kick off. Sometimes there is a tight stop of the wheel in the edges of the grooves and the extra links are removed.

    Sports bike

    The chain tension of a sports bike is done in a slightly different way. Since the sports bike is equipped with a rear parallelogram derailleur, the bike chain is somewhat different from the usual one. In this case, the tension is determined by the stiffness of the switch spring. Excessive length of the mechanism leads to the chain hitting the veloram. Insufficient length makes switching difficult. As a result, parts wear out faster. The main reason for the sagging mechanism of a sports bike is extra links. Chain collapse can be prevented by eliminating excess links with a squeeze for the bicycle chain.

    Choosing a chain damper

    • The ISCG is mounted to the bike frame by means of circular bolts. The optimal number of fasteners is 3, the bolt distance is 47.77 mm.
    • ISCG 05 is a highly demanded damper due to its easy installation. The diameter of the mounting circle is 73 mm, the bolt distance should be 55.92 mm. Fastening is carried out on a carriage that presses the damper to the bike frame.

    In addition to the installation type, tensioners differ from each other:

    • degree of protection;
    • cost;
    • by material basis;
    • weight;
    • configuration.

    The dampers are made of high quality metal and plastic. The cost of the tensioner directly depends on the material used.

    How to make your own bike chain guide

    Method 1

    Bend the bicycle spoke with a spiral and place it on the transmission. It is necessary for the spiral to pull back on the bike chain. This is an old and uncomplicated method, where the soothing does not look very aesthetically pleasing.

    Method 2

    The material used is an aluminum or duralumin plate 8-11 mm thick. The tensioner is manufactured using:

    • tap size М101 with its holders;
    • a file with a core;
    • hacksaws with a vice;
    • sandpaper;
    • technical oil;
    • hammer with a drill;
    • drilling machine or drill;

    With a marker, an old part is outlined on a metal workpiece and a hole is drilled in the center. Then they take a hacksaw, with which they saw off the workpiece and grind it with a file. An alternative option is to make a groove along the shaft diameter, intended for subsequent insertion into this groove. The installation section of the groove in the bicycle frame should be 4 mm wide on one side, 8 mm on the other.

    The hole is made with a drill of slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the hole itself. Especially from soft metal. For perfect accuracy, it is advisable to use an electric drill, not a manual one. The thread is cut by means of forward-return movements.

    Bicycle chain damper installation instructions

    When installing the tensioner, you will need to use:

    • a set of hexagons for 5, 4 and 2 mm;
    • connecting rod squeeze;
    • key;
    • removable carriage device;
    • a thread lock;
    • grease.

    Some tips on how to chain a speed bike

    A bicycle chain is one of the main components of a bicycle. Many are confused by the question of how to tighten the chain on a high-speed bike? Special skills and the presence of a special tool for this operation are not required. You can do the actions yourself, just follow the instructions exactly.

    • Reasons for the meeting or breakup
    • Tensioning the bike chain
    • On bicycles without speeds
    • On expressways with gears
    • How to shorten the chain?
    • How to select and install a chain damper
    • Video

    Reasons for the meeting or breakup

    One of the main parts of a bicycle is the chain. But even with normal driving, it can fly off or burst. The main reasons for the breakdown:

    • Damage to one of the stars of the transmission system. Speed ​​bike transmission systems are divided into collapsible and non-collapsible. Star replacement is possible in a collapsible system. The non-separable transmission system is completely changed, complete. If one sprocket is damaged, driving is possible at speeds that remain serviceable.
    • Incorrect speed setting. The front and rear derailleurs have special bolts that adjust the transmission. If these bolts are set incorrectly, then there is a possibility that when changing gears, the chain will fly off.

    Tensioning the bike chain

    The mechanism can be pulled independently, both on high-speed models with gear shifting, and on bicycles without them.

    In order to properly tension the chain on the bike, especially if it starts to slip, you need wrenches (which usually come with the vehicle) and a little patience.

    On bicycles without speeds

    Before starting to work with this element of an ordinary bicycle, which differs from other types, you should know the basic rule. you cannot pull the chain to the state of a string. The normal state of this node is considered to be sagging up to 5 mm.

    How to tension a chain on a regular bike, sequence of operations:

    • The vehicle rolls over. To avoid damaging the seat or the surface of the steering wheel, small pieces of soft material can be placed under them.
    • The rear wheel is supported by two nuts. To work with the chain, they must be loosened.
    • As a consequence of wheel movement along inclined grooves, it is necessary to adjust the required sag.
    • After the recommended distance of 5 mm has been reached, the rear wheel must be secured with 2 nuts, which must then be carefully tightened. Don’t put in a lot of effort.
    • A too tight mechanism will not allow the cyclist to pedal freely. Also, when returning the transport to its original state, carefully monitor that the wheel axis runs parallel to the carriage shaft.

    On expressways with gears

    How to tension the chain on a bike at speeds? The high-speed design provides tension on the link element by increasing the spring stiffness of the rear derailleur. In case of incorrect selection of the length of the link element and subsequent replacement, the switch will not provide proper tension.

    Heavy slack will cause the chain to hit the frame and make gear shifting difficult. Also, do not put too short a mechanism, the tension will accelerate the wear of the entire speed mechanism.

    [attention type = red] Important! Sometimes, when installing a new chain on a speed bike, you need to shorten its length, remove excess links. [/ Attention]

    This can be done in two ways:

    • Pull the chain over the largest front and rear sprocket. We pull for it, pushing the rear derailleur to the maximum forward. Add two links and get the optimal chain length.
    • We transfer the chain from the front to the largest star, from the back to the smallest one. Pull it up to such a position when:
    • the rear spreader frame will point straight down;
    • switch rollers must be in the same vertical line.

    How to shorten the chain?

    Normal speedless bike chains are collapsible. One of the links has a special lock. Opening it will allow you to remove unnecessary links or add new ones. [attention type = red] Important! Before proceeding with the removal of excess links of a solid-riveted chain on a high-speed bike, a special squeeze is purchased. [/ Attention]

    With its help, you can gently rivet the places of the clips, leave the required number of them, and then re-rivet.

    There is another solution: in the absence of a tool, the pins on the links are ground using sandpaper. After that they are removed.

    How to select and install a chain damper

    The damper is a simple structure made of high quality metal that prevents the link element from falling off. For proper functioning, it must be correctly installed.

    Installation procedure for the damper:

    • dismantle the pedals;
    • remove the gear shift stars from the bike. On some models, the carriage must be removed;
    • the largest star, which will be replaced by rocking, must be installed in place of the middle one;
    • fix the structure in place of the carriage protrusions;
    • lubricate all rubbing elements;
    • put on the chain and tighten it correctly.

    [attention type = red] Important! The damper should be extended towards the star so that it does not interfere with the free operation of the entire gearshift system. [/ Attention]

    Following the instructions above, you can figure out how to tighten the chain on a sports bike or do the same operation on a simpler two-wheeled vehicle.

    How to chain a speed bike will help the following video.

    Step by step instructions: how to properly tension the chain on a chainsaw?

    Regardless of the class of the chainsaw, the chain is weakened under the influence of intense regular loads. This can be determined by the appearance of characteristic gaps in the joints of the links, a change in the sound of work and an increase in vibration. You can tighten the tension of the saw headset yourself using a special mechanism. This avoids serious damage and injury while working with wood.

    • Why chain tension is necessary?
    • How to check the correct tension?
    • Tensioner mechanisms
    • How to adjust the chain correctly?
    • If pulling doesn’t work
    • Possible risks in case of uneven tension

    Why chain tension is necessary?

    The chain performs two functions at once. it directly cuts the wood and fixes the tire, preventing its arbitrary movement. The correct position and tension of the chainsaw chain allows you to fully operate the tool, avoid dangerous injuries during operation. If the saw head is installed incorrectly, it will easily fall off during sawing, harming the operator. Even with a slight weakening, it gradually breaks the tire groove, which leads to the failure of the teeth of the driven sprocket.

    READ  How To Use A Bicycle Chain Squeezer

    In this case, excessive stress leads to an increase in the load on the rotor, a reduction in the saw’s service life. Therefore, it is important to regularly check the tension, if necessary, tighten the special mechanism on the tool body.

    How to check the correct tension?

    To ventilate the quality of tension, you should gently pull it back in the middle of the tire.

    The permissible level of exit of the tails of the cutting links should be no more than 2/3 of their length.

    You can also determine the need for a tightening by the following criteria:

    • the appearance of a creak and rattle in the area of ​​the location of the main driving sprocket;
    • loosening the tightening of the protective mechanism, tire fasteners;
    • jamming when sawing, increased vibration and noise.

    Chainsaw decreases productivity and increases operating time. Even when sawing soft woods, the chain starts to get stuck in the groove, the speed and smoothness of the movement are reduced.

    Tensioner mechanisms

    Depending on the design features of the tool, the tensioning mechanism of the headset may differ.

    In budget models of chainsaws, a classic straight-threaded bolt is used to adjust the chain, which is located on the side of the body.

    In this version, the package includes a special tightening wrench or there is an external slot for a slotted screwdriver.

    All professional models are equipped with more convenient adjusting mechanisms. With the help of them, you can tighten the chain with one movement of the lever or by turning a special disc. Their design consists of a built-in tensioner, locking when turning is achieved by means of a lock nut. In some models, adjustment is carried out by locking the tire in a certain position of the tool cover. Regardless of the method, the circuit voltage needs to be corrected only in a cold state. Hot chain tension causes sagging as it cools.

    How to adjust the chain correctly?

    You can install the chain and adjust its voltage with your own hands, without contacting a service center, regardless of the class of the chainsaw, its age. Before starting work, each link should be fully checked, since the slack can also be associated with wear on the teeth or sprockets. Step-by-step algorithm for correct stretching of Calm 180, Husqvarna, Champion, Partner and other models:

    • position the instrument on the table so that its headset is on top. Unscrew the threaded fasteners of the protective cover, dismantle the tire and thoroughly clean each element (it is convenient to use a vacuum cleaner or a compressed air cylinder);
    • determine the correct position of the chain. The teeth should be on top, going in the opposite direction from the body;
    • put it directly on the tire. Secure the bolt mechanism, make sure there is sufficient free play.

    Before looking for an answer to the question of how to pull the chain on a chainsaw, you should study what methods exist. There are two widespread methods of tension. fast and frontal. The first method involves the use of a tightening bolt. It must be tightened clockwise, at the end, be sure to check the wing nut and lower the handle.

    Figure 3. A quick way to stretch

    The frontal method is more complex, the main steps are:

    • unscrew the nuts with which the tire is fixed on the chainsaw. Loosen and slightly pull up on the edge of the headset;
    • tighten the adjusting screw to the desired level, fix the tire back with the nuts;
    • check the chain tension with your fingers, if necessary tighten the nut.

    Regardless of the characteristics of the tensioner, excessive tension on the chain must not be allowed. this is no less dangerous than loosening it. After installing and adjusting the saw unit, it is recommended to run the tool at idle speed. Carefully check the smooth movement of the chain, the presence of slack and extraneous whistling sounds.

    If pulling doesn’t work

    With the correct installation of the chain, there should be no sagging; when pulled, the teeth come out of the grooves no more than 4-6 mm. After work, roll it along the tire in the direction of rotation, the stroke should be smooth and light. If the tension correction does not help, the cause of the under tension may be due to the following factors:

    • incompatibility between the chain model (pitch of teeth, length, size) and the saw headset of your chainsaw model;
    • failure of the guide sprockets;
    • breakage of the tensioner, adjusting screw;
    • lack of lubrication (the problem is solved by additional use of oil);
    • mechanical damage to the bottom of the teeth, grooves in the headset.

    Figure 4. Excessive stretching

    If you cannot achieve sufficient chain tension, the tool must never be used. You should check the compatibility of all components, if possible, contact the service center to fix the breakdown. Using a chainsaw without a high-quality setting can lead to dangerous consequences.

    Possible risks in case of uneven tension

    Any changes to the saw head (sagging, broken teeth, overexertion) can lead to problems during operation. Risks of sagging tool operation:

    • decrease in productivity when sawing, felling wood;
    • the chain gets stuck in the groove, flies off the tire during starting;
    • breakage of the headset, damage to the guide sprockets;
    • high load on the rotor, reduced tool life;
    • getting serious injuries while working.

    Before starting work, it is important to qualitatively check all moving mechanisms, the tightening of the adjusting bolt. Use a special oil for lubricating the teeth, saw headset. Adjusting the chain and sawing directly must be carried out in protective clothing, gloves and goggles must be worn to avoid injury.

    The chainsaw headset is an important building block for productivity and quality. Before starting operation, check the tension, make sure it is correctly installed. Tension is adjusted using a special bolt or lever on the body. Sagging or excessive tension can lead to serious consequences. breakage of the saw, injury when cutting wood.

    We pull the timing chain on the VAZ 2106 on our own

    If under the hood of the VAZ 2106 suddenly something began to ring and gnash, then this does not bode well. Neither the engine nor the driver. Most likely, the timing chain under the cylinder block cover is so loose and loose that it began to hit the tension shoe and damper. Can a loose chain be tightened on my own? Yes. Let’s figure out how it’s done.

    The purpose of the timing chain on the VAZ 2106

    The timing chain in the engine of a VAZ 2106 car connects two shafts. the crankshaft and the timing shaft. Both shafts are equipped with toothed sprockets, on which the chain is put on.

    After starting the engine, the chain ensures synchronous rotation of the above two shafts. If synchronicity is violated for some reason, this leads to malfunctions in the entire gas distribution mechanism of the car. In addition, cylinder malfunctions occur, after which the car owner notes the appearance of engine power failures, a poor reaction of the car to pressing the gas pedal and increased fuel consumption.

    Timing chain characteristics

    Timing chains are installed on classic VAZ cars, which differ only in the number of links. The length of the chains is the same:

    • on VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2105 cars, a chain with 114 links is installed, the length of which varies from 495.4 to 495.9 mm, and the link length is 8.3 mm;
    • chains of the same length are installed on VAZ 2103 and VAZ 2106 cars, but they already have 116 links. The link length is 7.2 mm.

    The timing chain pins on the VAZ 2106 are made of high quality alloy steel with high strength and durability.

    Checking the timing chain for wear

    The car owner, who decides to find out the degree of wear of the timing chain on the VAZ 2106, has to solve a very difficult task. The fact is that a worn out and stretched chain looks little different from a new one. On the old chain, as a rule, there is no serious mechanical damage, and it is almost impossible to notice the wear of its pins with the naked eye.

    But there is one simple wear test that every car enthusiast should know about. It is carried out as follows: a piece of an old chain about 20 cm long is taken from one side, placed horizontally, and then turned in the hand so that the chain pins are perpendicular to the floor.

    The chain overhang angle is then evaluated. If the hanging section of the chain has deviated from the horizontal by 10–20 degrees, the chain is new. If the overhang angle is 45-50 degrees or more, the timing chain is badly worn out and needs to be replaced.

    There is a second, more accurate method for determining timing chain wear. But here the car owner will need a caliper. On an arbitrary section of the chain, it is necessary to count eight links (or 16 pins), and using a vernier caliper, measure the distance between the extreme pins. It should be no more than 122.6 mm.

    Then another random section of the chain with 16 pins is selected, and the measurement is repeated. Then the third, last section of the chain is measured. If at least in one measured area the distance between the outer pins exceeds the mark of 122.6 mm. the chain is worn out and should be replaced.

    Signs of a poorly adjusted chain

    When talking about a poorly adjusted chain, they usually mean a chain that is loose and slack. Because a tightly tensioned chain does not show any signs of breakage. She just breaks. Here are the main signs that the timing chain is loose:

    • after starting the engine, a loud grinding and banging is heard from under the hood, the frequency of which increases as the speed of the crankshaft increases. This is due to the fact that the sagging chain continuously hits the damper and the tension shoe;
    • the car does not react well to pressing the gas pedal: the engine starts to increase speed only one or two seconds after pressing. This is due to the fact that due to the sagging chain, the timing of the timing shaft and the crankshaft is disrupted;
    • there are power dips in the engine. over, they can occur both when gaining speed and when the engine is idling. Due to the desynchronization of the shafts, which was mentioned above, the operation of the cylinders in the motor is also disrupted. In this case, one cylinder either does not work at all, or works, but not at full strength;
    • increased fuel consumption. If the cylinder block does not work properly, this cannot but affect fuel consumption. It can increase by a third, and in especially severe cases, double.

    If the driver noticed one or more of the above signs, this says only one thing: it’s time to remove the timing chain and check for wear. If it turns out to be badly worn out, it will have to be replaced. If wear is negligible, the chain can simply be tightened slightly.

    How to tighten the timing chain on a VAZ 2106

    Before proceeding with tightening the sagging timing chain, let’s decide on the tools that we need to work. Here they are:

    • open-end wrench for 14;
    • open-end wrench for 36 (you need it to turn the crankshaft);
    • socket head 10 with a knob.

    Sequencing

    Before adjusting the chain, you will have to make one preparatory operation: remove the air filter. The fact is that its body will not allow getting to the timing chain. The filter is held by four nuts for 10, which can be easily unscrewed.

      After removing the air filter housing, access to the car’s carburetor opens. On the side of it is the gas thrust. It is detached using a socket head for 10.

    Tensioner malfunctions

    The timing chain tensioning mechanism on the VAZ 2106 is a system consisting of three important elements:

    • tension shoe fitting;
    • tension shoe;
    • timing chain damper.

    All malfunctions of the tensioning mechanism are somehow related to wear or breakdown of one of the above elements:

    • breakage of the tension union. It can occur both due to mechanical wear of this part and due to its corrosion. Whatever the reason, the bottom line is the same: the tension shoe stops extending and pressing on the timing chain. As a result, the chain loses its stability, begins to dangle and hit the damper, and in particularly severe cases it flies off the guide sprockets or breaks. There is only one solution: replace the tension union. This part cannot be repaired, since its body cannot be disassembled (and even if the body were collapsible, it is not possible to find spare parts for the tension fitting on sale);
    • breakdown of the timing chain damper. The damper breaks either due to fatigue destruction of the metal, or due to a weakened timing chain, the blows of which led to the loosening of the mounting bolts, followed by the breakage of the damper. The second case is the most dangerous, as broken bolts and parts of the damper can lead to an open timing chain. And this, in turn, will lead to damage to valves, cylinders and to complete seizure of the motor. It is not always possible to eliminate such a breakdown even with the help of expensive overhaul. Solution: Replacing the damper. The reason is simple: the damper is a very important part, and, for example, no one will restore it by welding. There is only one condition: the new pacifier should not be Chinese, but a real VAZ;

    So, to tension the sagging timing chain does not require any special skills or knowledge. This task is quite within the power of even a novice car enthusiast who has held a wrench in his hands at least once. All you need to do is follow the guidelines above exactly.