There are different sizes of bicycle headsets, and more specifically, individual head tube options. Currently, you can find the following types of glasses:
- Standard. size 30 mm.
- Integrated. Available in several sizes: 1/8 “(41.1mm), 1/8” Italian Standard (41.95mm), 1/8 “FSA Standard (41.6mm).
- Semi-integrated. range of sizes from 41.35 mm to 55.9 mm.
Each size has its own tolerances down to the millimeter. However, you should try to select glasses as accurately as possible in order to avoid fork backlash. Such an assumption will negatively affect the driving experience.
Removing the pedals
When removing the pedals, you need to pay attention to the following: the right pedal from the chain side is unscrewed as usual counterclockwise, the left pedal is unscrewed on the contrary. clockwise.
Take a wrench of a suitable size and unscrew the pedals by hooking the wrench onto the pedal at the very edge of the crank.
Hold the pedal with your free hand to prevent it from falling to the floor.
The steering column is the most complex component of mountain bike steering, but it can be easily “mastered” if you have sufficient knowledge and the desire to understand the structure of the bicycle. Installing and replacing any part of the steering device is simple enough so that you do not worry about possible breakdowns. Sometimes for “repair” you just need to tighten a single bolt. Even major changes are possible, such as raising the steering wheel. Accessories such as an extension cord will help with this.
Bicycle disassembly tools
- Rags, paper towels, bicycle cleaner
- Multi-purpose grease
- Hex keys (set)
- Whip key
- Connecting rod puller
- Carriage puller
- Carriage wrench
- Plastic Tire Bearers
- Retaining ring wrench
- Pedal release key
- Chain squeezing
Visual video how to disassemble a bike:
Correction of radial and frontal beats, elimination of backlash in bushings, assembly with new grease
Adjustment of gears, brakes, cleaning cables, assembling for new grease of the steering column, carriage assembly, wheel hubs, elimination of rim runout
Dismantle cassette / ratchet, chain, flush, blow off, install, lubricate, adjust
Cleaning of hinges, replacement of sleeve bushings, replacement of bearings if necessary, elimination of backlash
Assembling the bike from the factory packaging
Assembly, adjustment of all units, component troubleshooting
Bicycle Steering Assembly Deconstruction
Tips for the selection of components, installation and adjustment of all parts of the bike
Removing / replacing brake pads, bleeding the brake, adjusting the caliper, adjusting the brake lever travel
Selection and adjustment of the mowing line of the chain (chain line)
Calculation of the length of the carriage shaft, a comprehensive selection of components
- Cantilever brake
Adjusting the interaction of the front and rear suspension
- Cantilever brake
Remove / install steering column
200 \ 600 rub.
Rear shock absorber service
from 2000 rubles.
Bicycle fork: remove, disassemble, assemble, install
It would seem, why do bicycles and cyclists need a suspension fork? But for both, it is extremely useful: a well-matched and adjusted fork can significantly reduce the load on the palms and hands while riding, improve the handling of the bike, and in addition, increases the service life of the frame and steering bearings by reducing the vibration effect. With proper care, the life of the plug can be extended several times. This will certainly be pleasant to the zealous owner of a two-wheeled friend, given the high cost.
- cleaning and lubricating the feet on the oil seals. every 100-150 km of the distance traveled;
- inspection for cracks in the “pants” of the plug, lubrication of oil seals with disassembly. every 500-1000 km;
- for oil forks. oil changes annually or after 4000-5000 km of travel.
Among the tools necessary for working with a bicycle fork are a screwdriver, pliers, a wrench, a small adjustable gas wrench; taking into account the specifics of working with oil, it is advised to stock up on rags or rags, in addition, work can be performed with gloves to protect hands from damage and pollution.
Service The Bike Headset On A Threaded Steerer
Advantages of threadless steering columns in comparison
As you know, threadless columns have almost completely displaced threaded ones from use in recent years. Nowadays, only threadless steering columns are installed on most modern mountain (including professional ones), BMX’s and even road and road bicycles, and there are many good and objective reasons for this:
- Forks for a threadless head tube are cheaper in production, since an elementary adjustment to the size of any existing frame is possible, while in the case of a threaded design, the fork rod must exactly match the height of a specific head tube of the frame, rigidly tied to it.
- To adjust or install a threadless steering column, a set of generally available and most importantly compact tools is required, in particular hexagons; while servicing threaded steering wheels requires expensive, rare and cumbersome keys that are difficult to take with you on the road. Threadless steering columns are easier and faster to install.
- Threadless steering columns and forks are significantly lighter than equivalent threaded counterparts.
- The removal of the threadless version more reliably and more rigidly fixes the fork in its place, which also improves the rigidity of the entire mechanism and the steering wheel in particular.
- On threaded steering columns, water can enter the structure slots, causing corrosion and premature wear over time.
The only advantage of threaded steering columns can be considered only the possibility of vertical adjustment of the steering wheel together with the stem (often in such cases it is a single monolithic design) in a wide range.
How to replace a fork on a bicycle?
It is not recommended for an untrained and inexperienced user to carry out: if it is possible to cope with simple care, then it is better to leave such a procedure to a qualified specialist. As a last resort, carry out the replacement under the supervision of the master, following his recommendations.
Steering Column Sizes and Standards
For threaded headsets, the following mounting dimensions exist:
- Headset 1 ″ inch with 30-30.8mm outer diameter cups and 26.4-27mm inner rim
- Headset 1.1 / 8 ″ with 34 mm outer cup diameter and 30 mm inner rim
- Headset 1.1 / 4 “” with 37 mm outer diameter cups and 33 mm inner rim
For threadless standard steering columns (EC, aheadset), the following seat standards exist:
- Headset 0.833 ″ (EC32 designation) with 32.7 mm outer cup diameter and 26.4 mm inner rim
- Headset 1 ″ inch (EC30 designation) with 30.2 mm outer cup diameter and 26.4 mm inner rim
- Headset 1.1 / 8 “” (EC34 designation) with 34 mm outer cup diameter and 30 mm inner rim
- Headset 1.1 / 4 ″ (EC37 designation) with 37 mm outer cup diameter and 33 mm inner rim
- Headset 1.5 “” (EC49 designation) with 49.7 mm outer diameter cups and 39.8 mm inner rim
- Headset 2.21 ″ (EC56 designation) with 56 mm outer cups
For threadless semi-integrated steering columns (ZS, zerostack), there are the following seat standards:
- Headset 1.1 / 8 “” (designation ZS41 and ZS44) with an outer diameter of cups 41.3 and 44 mm, respectively, as well as an inner rim diameter of 30 mm
- Headset 1.5 “” (designation ZS49) with 49.7 mm outer diameter cups and 39.8 mm inner rim
- Headset 2.21 ″ (designation ZS56) with 56 mm outer diameter cups
For threadless integrated steering columns (IS, integrated), the following standards with seat dimensions exist:
- Headset 1 ″ inch (IS38 designation) with 38 mm outer cup diameter and 26.4 mm inner rim
- Headset 1.1 / 8 “” (designations IS41, IS42 and IS47) with outer diameters of cups 41.3, 41.8 and 47 mm, respectively, as well as an inner rim diameter of 30 mm
- 2.05 “” headset (IS52 designation) with 52 mm outer diameter cups
Based on the dimensions and designations given, it will not be possible to choose a steering column for the existing glass, provided that its type and mainly the pipe diameter are correctly determined.
Wheel and camera
|Type of work|
|Replacing the threaded / slotted cassette|
|Sorting: replacement of the camera, tire, rim tape (flipper) with wheel removal (depending on the complexity of the work)|
|Correction of the “figure eight”, ellipse, centering, tightening the spokes, setting the umbrella (depending on the complexity of the work)|
|Re-spacing of a wheel / assembly of a new wheel without boring and selection of spokes|
|Bulkhead bushing front simple|
|Rear bushing bulkhead with stars removal and drum pulling|
|Front / Rear Hub Taper Tension Adjustment|
|Dismantling, installation of an eccentric / non-eccentric wheel (per unit)|
|Wheel inflation (per unit)|
|Replacing a single spoke without removing stars and tires / with removing stars and tires|
|Calculation of the length of the needles|
|Bonding the camera (one puncture) including the border|