How to properly assemble a bicycle wheel

Dismantling instructions

Obviously, in order to repair a wheel, it must be removed from the bike. For this, it is better to put the latter on the handlebar and saddle, after removing the attachments. There are two ways to fix the wheel to the frame:

  • an eccentric through the hollow axis;
  • nuts or lambs.

In the first case, you just need to turn the eccentric lever 180 degrees and then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the axle. In the case of an eccentric attachment, the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle on one side does not extend beyond the thickness of the fork in which it is installed. Experienced users must take this point into account when repairing. In the second case, the rear wheel hub axle is always longer than the distance between the fork stays by at least 15–20 mm. Thus, the axle extension beyond the outer side of the fork should be no less than 5-6 mm on each side. It is important to observe these ratios when re-assembling the rear wheel hub. After the fasteners are removed or loosened, the chain must be dropped from the drive sprocket and the wheel can be removed. If the bike is equipped not with disc brakes, but with rim brakes, then most likely you will need to dissolve them by throwing off the brake cable from the traction.

What is required for repair

Proceeding from the fact that, as a rule, most citizens do not have special tools at home, we will use the most affordable.

  • Open-end wrench for 17 and an adjustable wrench is better. 2 adjustable.
  • Steel bit or flat screwdriver.
  • Platypus pliers.
  • Tweezers.
  • Litol-24 grease.
  • A piece of fabric on which the action will take place.
  • Cleaning cloth.
  • A hammer.

We start to service the wheel

Washed and rubbed since autumn. We unscrew from the axle, the nuts securing the wheel to the frame.

properly, assemble, bicycle, wheel

On both sides, with an adjustable wrench, or with an open-end wrench, 15. Holding the axle on the opposite side with another wrench against turning. Now, when the nuts are removed, also, holding the axle with the second wrench, by the tightened locknut, unscrew the nut that locks the threaded inner race of the wheel bearing.Remove the spacer sleeve from the axle. Now, turn off the outer race of the carriage outer bearing. ATTENTION! You need to unscrew it CLOCKWISE, because the thread here is left-handed. Again, due to the lack of a special tool for bicycle repair, we use either a barb or a corner of a flat screwdriver, tapping on it with a hammer. Usually, if not rusted, the clip turns away without much effort. And here we have before us, not burdened with abundant lubrication, but rather completely dry, balls of the external bearing. To avoid rolling the balls when removing the block of sprockets, it is most correct to put a piece of cloth under the wheel. (If disassembling on a smooth surface) It is best to use a magnet so as not to lose them when removing them. In two or three steps, all the balls will be removed into a separate container. Why separate? Because, they will be exactly the same. from the inner bearing. And so that there are no problems with sorting and counting them, it is better to immediately separate. Next, gently pulling up the sprocket block, remove it from the hub, naturally hearing a barely audible knock of the falling balls of the inner bearing. Likewise. dry, to the point of indecency. Again with a magnet, we collect them in a container. And here it is. a ratchet. We carefully wipe it and the block of sprockets, from the remnants of old grease and dirt.

Looking into the inside of the wheel hub, from the side of the ratchet, we find there the inner race of the hub bearing. As expected, she’s covered in mud. Using a rag and a thin flat screwdriver or a wooden stick, remove all the dirt. Then, holding the clip with platypuses, turn the axle out of it, in the opposite direction, thus freeing the hub bearing balls on the other side. If there is no lubricant there, then they will fall out just as freely. Understandably, we wipe everything thoroughly with a rag. One unpleasant detail. due to the lack of a special key for unscrewing the ratchet housing, it is not possible to get to the hub bearing balls from this side. In order to still deliver the grease to the bearing, it was necessary to heat Litol to a fluid state and pour it from the opposite side into the gap between the axle and the bushing housing, until the grease flowed from under the not disassembled bearing. After that, we apply grease to the outer cage of the hub bearing and insert the balls into place. After that, holding the cage from the opposite side with platypuses again, we turn the axle almost to the stop. ATTENTION! Do not tighten yet. We put in place the spacer sleeve and tighten the lock nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN. Bye And proceed to the assembly of the block of asterisks. Apply grease to the inner bearing race and place the balls in it until it is filled, it will seem that one or a couple of balls is missing. This is normal, since the bearing is loose, without separation. We do the same on the other side. When all the balls are in place, gently, with a slight counterclockwise rotation, put the block of sprockets on the ratchet. It is necessary to turn, for easier entry of the ratchet into the teeth. Well, here it is. The block is almost assembled. It remains to put the adjusting washers in place. And tighten the cover-cage counterclockwise. Again, using a screwdriver, not with strong hammer blows. until it stops. Further, the adjusting washers will not allow it to be tightened. But you shouldn’t make too much effort. Now that everything is assembled, you need to start adjusting the working clearances at the hub bearings. To do this, we turn off, almost to the very end of the thread, the lock nut, hold the inner cage with the platypuses, and rotate the axis until lightly touched by the cage of balls. After that, we wrap the lock nut to the very distance sleeve and, fixing the sleeve with platypuses, tighten the nut. We turn the wheel a few revolutions so that the balls fall into place, and holding the nut with a wrench on the side opposite to the sprockets, tighten the lock nut with sufficient effort. We turn the wheel again. It should rotate freely on the axle, without trying to turn it. If during rotation you feel slight twitching of the axle, it means that the bearings are clamped and you need to repeat the adjustment by loosening the locknut and slightly loosening the inner race of the wheel bearing, then tighten the locknut again. Two or three unsuccessful attempts and everything will work out. The wheel is assembled. Spins freely, without biting and backlash. Good luck. Friends! Probably, this is not exactly the Twentysix format, but I decided to post this small guide from the magazine here, so that everyone has the opportunity to evaluate and discuss the format of the permanent Workshop column. Also because, in the near future, we will try to carry out import substitution in relation to this heading by one of the domestic bicycle workshops. So, the motto of the article: Self-matching will certainly make you related to the bike. From you. skill and patience. From Ryder. step by step instructions. 1. To assemble a wheel (with a camera), we need: a wheel centering machine, an umbrella gauge, a vernier caliper, a hammer, a blunt punch, a screwdriver, a folding rule, a suitable spoke wrench of approximately 3.2 mm for standard square nipples. 2. First, we measure the effective diameter of the ERD rim: carefully measure the inner diameter of the rim and add the thickness of the rim wall. We will need this figure to calculate the length of the spokes. 3. Now we will measure the diameter (circumference) of the location (centers) of the spoke holes of the hub. Please note that the diameter of this circle can be different for each flange. And in most cases, the front and rear hubs differ in this measure. We issue a passport for each sleeve. We enter into it the diameters of the location of the spoke holes. Then we measure the length of the hub axle (in this case, 142 mm). Divide this number in half and mark the middle of the sleeve. Now, having positioned the sleeve on the sheet according to the figure, we measure the distance from its middle to each of the flanges (FD) using a vernier caliper. In our case, these are 33 and 20 mm. Note that due to the mounting of the brake rotor, the front hubs are also asymmetrical. 5. We recommend using one of the online calculators to calculate the length of the knitting needles. For example, the spoke length calculator on the DT Swiss website. Translation of terms for the calculator: Front wheel. front wheel; Rear wheel. rear wheel; Rim Diameter / ERD. type of rim and / or ERD (see above); Hub. bushing; Pitch circle diameter. PCD (see above); Flange distance. FD (see above); Ø of spoke hole. diameter of the spoke hole; No. of spokes. the number of spokes; No. of intersections. the number of intersections (type of spacing, in this case. three); Nipple. nipple type; Spoke length (precise). the exact length of the spoke; rounded. rounded length. 6. We pass the first spoke through any spoke hole in the hub flange from the inside from the rotor side and fix the spoke with a nipple in the second spoke hole of the rim from the hole for the camera nipple (bottom photo).

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Next, we pass seven more spokes into every second hole in the flange, also from the inside of the sleeve. Attention: under no circumstances use spokes of different lengths on one side of the wheel! 8. Having passed the spoke through the hole in the hub flange (step 6), insert its end into the hole in the rim, leaving three free holes between the adjacent spokes. We fix with nipples. That is, there should be a spoke in every fourth hole. 9. Now we bring the spokes to their working position: while holding the rim with one hand, we rotate the sleeve in the opposite direction of the movement (see photo). The spokes must enter the rim at an obtuse angle. 10. Finishing the rotor side lacing. To do this, thread the next eight spokes through the remaining holes of the same hub flange from the opposite (outer) side. 11. Turning the loose knitting needle in the direction of rotation of the sleeve (see step 9), draw it behind the two nearest fixed knitting needles and in front of the third. Then, as shown in the photo, we thread this spoke into the middle of the three free holes on the rim and fix it with a nipple. We do the same with all the other knitting needles. 12. The thickened (end) part of the spoke nipples has splines. Insert a screwdriver or a socket wrench for the spokes into the slot (see photo) and screw the nipple onto the spoke by two or three turns, without applying force. 13. Now we pass the first pin-reference (not to be confused with the leading ones) through the hole of the second flange from the inside. Before that, we turn the wheel so that the tire nipple is at the top point. Focusing on the rim hole closest to the nipple in the direction of travel of the bicycle (on the left), we find the corresponding hole on the hub flange, also located in the direction of travel (see photo). We fix the knitting needle in this position. So there will be no spoke intersection opposite the bus nipple, which would interfere with the pump connection. 14. Insert the next spoke into the nearest hole in the flange to the left of the reference spoke. We pass this knitting needle through the hole from the outside, so that its head looks outward from the hub. 15. The remaining seven spokes are threaded into every second hole in the flange (do not insert into the rim yet). At the same time, we make sure that the needle does not fall into the honey triangle with the needles of the other side, but remains free. We throw the third spoke to the right of the reference spoke through it from the outside and insert it into the nearest free hole from the tire nipple to the left (principle from behind, from behind, from the front, fasten it). The rest of the spokes are sequentially inserted into every fourth hole in the rim so that they do not intersect with other spokes, and secure with nipples. 16. The remaining eight spokes are threaded in the same sequence from the inside of the flange into the free holes. Then they will need to be inserted into the free holes in the rim and secured. 17. Since all the other spokes are already secured, there is little room to maneuver. Therefore, we take each of the last spokes with both hands and insert them into the corresponding hole of the rim, observing the scheme of three intersections at the back, back, front and the same angles of intersection of the spokes. 18. Now that we have a full umbrella formed, screw the nipples deeper onto each spoke until the entire thread is out of sight. but no further! 19. Now we fix the wheel in the centering (straightening) machine. So that the line for centering the wheel does not deviate to one side, we check that it is firmly fixed in the machine fork mountings. Then, starting from the tire nipple, tighten all the short spokes of the wheel one full turn. On the front wheel, this will be the left side in the direction of travel of the bike, and on the rear wheel, this will be the right side (transmission side). Then move on to the opposite needles. 20. It is necessary to exclude friction of the spoke heads on the holes when the spokes vibrate. To do this, by careful blows using a hammer and a blunt punch, align the head of each spoke with the surface of the flange. 21. We tighten the knitting needles for about a couple more turns in the sequence indicated above (first on the short side, then on the side of the long knitting needles). We remove the wheel from the machine and install the umbrella gauge on the end of the wheel hub from the side of the short spokes and on the rim on both sides. Using the adjusting wheel, we adjust the length of the umbrella axis in such a way as to eliminate the gaps at these three points (rim sides on the right and left, the end of the sleeve). Then put the umbrella gauge on the opposite side of the wheel (with long spokes) 22. If the rim is not equidistant from the hub, tighten all the spoke nipples on the corresponding side of the flange half a turn. The adjustment should always be directed towards the long spokes. Check the pulling result by re-installing the umbrella gauge on the wheel and aligning it. 23. We bring together both probes of the wheel straightener and bring them to the rim until one of the probes starts to cling to the rim. To straighten the ellipse, the nipples are always tightened only a quarter of a turn. Always pull up the same number of knitting needles on the left and right. 24. Mark the area of ​​radial beating with white tape. Tighten the spokes (clockwise to the outside of the rim) a quarter turn. And, if the beating section covers only five knitting needles, we slightly tighten the sixth too, so as not to make an eight. 25. The figure eight is indicated by the lateral beating of the rim on the machine probe. To straighten it, slightly loosen the nipples on the beating side and tighten the nipples on the opposite side until the rim stops scratching the probe. 26. Excessive tension can damage both the hub and the rim. To check the tension, compress the two crossed knitting needles with medium force. The intersection point must not move more than one centimeter. 27. After all broaches, the concentricity of the wheel must be checked again. We will straighten if necessary. Just be careful not to overtighten the knitting needles. 28. To prevent the appearance of eights and ellipses, the wheel should be crimped after lacing. We install the wheel on a solid stand and carefully lean on it with our weight, after which we again check it for concentricity and runout.

Installing the rear wheel

To return the rear wheel to its place, it is necessary to install it in the fork and put a chain on one of the sprockets. Now it is necessary to center the position of the element on the bike so that it is between the stays of both the upper and lower parts of the rear fork of the frame and looks strictly in the middle of the pedal axle carriage. Holding the wheel in this position, you need to fix it in the fork with standard nuts or an eccentric. It is important not to forget to restore the tension on the brake cable and place the chain on the drive sprocket. After installation, it is advisable to make sure of the correctness of the actions performed, to conduct a test drive. In the process, it is necessary to trace how the bike behaves after repair.

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Maintenance and diagnostics of the rear wheel of a high-speed bicycle are mandatory procedures to maintain the serviceability of the mechanisms and long-term operation of the vehicle. Novice users will have more difficulty, but you can always use the instructions and read the advice of experienced craftsmen. Having completed the repair work on your own, it will be possible to save the family budget.

The beginning of the next cycling season is not far off, and having mentioned the proverb about sledges and cart, it would be nice to prepare your bike for it right now. Not every locality has a bicycle service, where experienced (sometimes) masters, for a symbolic (never) fee, will do prophylaxis for your two-wheeled friend. This means that you need to rely on your golden hands and help from the Internet.

Required tools

It may be necessary to dismantle the rear wheel in the following cases:

  • there is damage to the rim;
  • broken tire or deflated tube;
  • complete wheel wear.

For disassembly and subsequent assembly of the rear wheel of a bicycle with your own hands, in addition to traditional open-end wrenches, you will also need special tools:

  • a puller for the type of cassette that is installed on a bicycle (for example, the mechanism of cassettes of the Stealth model and HVZ road vehicles has a completely different design, respectively, suitable types of pullers are needed);
  • whip. a cassette fixing device, consisting of a lever with pieces of a bicycle chain attached to it;
  • a spoke wrench (it is desirable that it has at least three slot sizes, which will allow you to capture even old knitting needles with a knocked-down square of heads);
  • special spoons for tire bead.

Advanced cyclists can use the repair stand to work in a natural pose.

How to assemble a bicycle wheel

The rear wheel of a bicycle requires maintenance more often than other components. This is due to the fact that it is the most loaded element. it is it that accounts for the bulk of the user’s weight. Those who like to ride such a vehicle often and for a long time should learn how to disassemble and assemble the rear wheel of a high-speed bike correctly. Of course, you can go to the workshop, but if you have the necessary tools, any person can do all the work on disassembly, repair and maintenance on his own, while receiving moral satisfaction and not burdening the family budget.

Replacing the camera

To remove the tube from the tire, you must completely deflate it. It is necessary to pry the latter with spoons for disassembly, inserting them at a distance of about 15 cm from one another. After that, you need to start to spread the spoons little by little, until the entire side of the tire is removed from the rim. It remains to remove the nipple and remove the camera.

Installing a new camera is carried out in the reverse order:

  • It is necessary to insert the nipple into the rim and tuck the entire tube into the tire around the circumference, avoiding twisting and wrinkling.
  • Before beading the tire onto the rim, you can slightly inflate the tube so that it takes its shape and takes its place in the tire.
  • After prying the tire, it is necessary to fill it with spoons into the rim, first in the area of ​​the nipple and then along the circumference.

How to build a bike wheel. Easy!

After making sure that the tire has taken its place on the rim, you can inflate the tube to working pressure. After that, it remains to be engaged in the installation of the rear wheel of the bicycle, and the repair can be considered complete.

How to assemble a bicycle wheel

Take the survey

In this case, the following points should be considered:

  • Rear wheel hub designs may vary in size, shape and bearing type used.
  • The speed bike cassette can also be of various designs and contain from three to eleven sprockets.
  • The hub through the spokes is quite rigidly connected to the wheel rim. Usually on high-speed bicycles there are either 28, 32, or 36 spokes, and the pattern of their weave can also be different.
  • Mountain bike rims are usually box-shaped, as opposed to road versions that have single-tube tires. Since the weight of the outer part of the wheel is always tried to be reduced, the most common material is aluminum based alloys.

Mountain and city multi-speed bicycles usually have tube tires, and their size and tread pattern can be very different.

Sleeve design

How to assemble a bicycle wheel

While assembling a bicycle wheel is not an easy task, every self-respecting cyclist should know how to get the job done. The assembly process will help you understand the structure of the wheel and the arrangement of the spokes that hold it. This experience will also allow you to eliminate beats, eights and umbrellas in the future.

To assemble a bicycle wheel, you need to have all the elements, the necessary tools, and also know the spoke technology. the correct way to attach the spokes to the rim and hub. In this article we will look at the assembly procedure using the example of a rear wheel.

Stage three. Tension adjustment

The first step is to make an initial adjustment, which involves tightening all the nipples evenly. Be sure to make sure that all nipples are screwed in the same number of turns. the spokes must have the same tension. Typically, the lead spokes are curved close to the flange. Before starting the tensioning procedure, they must be folded by hand by pressing on each spoke near the flange.

The final tension should be applied after the initial adjustment has been completed. Correct tension will ensure that the wheel does not run out when driving, which is very important for comfortable movement.

Summing up, we can safely say that wheel spokes are far from the most difficult procedure. If you are sure that you can handle the knitting, have sufficient patience, skills, knowledge and skills, then this procedure will not be a problem.

How to disassemble and reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

The rear wheel of a bicycle requires maintenance more often than other components. This is due to the fact that it is the most loaded element. it is it that accounts for the bulk of the user’s weight. Those who like to ride such a vehicle often and for a long time should learn how to disassemble and assemble the rear wheel of a high-speed bike correctly. Of course, you can go to the workshop, but if you have the necessary tools, any person can do all the work on disassembly, repair and maintenance on his own, while receiving moral satisfaction and not burdening the family budget.

We continue to spoke the right side of the wheel in the same way as the left.

Turn the sleeve clockwise relative to the rim and insert the next spoke from the inside,

we thread it so that it passes over two knitting needles and under the third (those same three crosses, photo 8.9).

By inserting the remaining knitting needles in this way, we complete the assembly. The result can be seen on any bike or in photo 10.

After all the spokes are in place, you can start balancing. Balancing is carried out by tightening the spokes with a special key

or a screwdriver on the rim side.

How to Remove and Install a Wheel on a Bicycle

Dismantling instructions

Obviously, in order to repair a wheel, it must be removed from the bike. For this, it is better to put the latter on the handlebar and saddle, after removing the attachments. There are two ways to fix the wheel to the frame:

  • an eccentric through the hollow axis;
  • nuts or lambs.

In the first case, you just need to turn the eccentric lever 180 degrees and then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the axle. In the case of an eccentric attachment, the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle on one side does not extend beyond the thickness of the fork in which it is installed. Experienced users must take this point into account when repairing. In the second case, the rear wheel hub axle is always longer than the distance between the fork stays by at least 15–20 mm. Thus, the axle extension beyond the outer side of the fork should be no less than 5-6 mm on each side. It is important to observe these ratios when re-assembling the rear wheel hub. After the fasteners are removed or loosened, the chain must be dropped from the drive sprocket and the wheel can be removed. If the bike is equipped not with disc brakes, but with rim brakes, then most likely you will need to dissolve them by throwing off the brake cable from the traction.

Eccentric Nut

Removing the front wheel from the fork

Removing a wheel is the simplest maintenance procedure for your bike. This is done very simply:

  • Turn the bike upside down.
  • Release the rim brake, remove the caliper from the disc.
  • Loosen the fasteners from the fork dropouts.
  • Remove the wheel axle from the mountings.
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On dropouts, the mount is nut and eccentric. In the first case, you will need two 15 mm wrenches. with one we hold the nut, with the other we carefully twist it on the opposite side. With the eccentric, everything is easier. loosen the retaining nut and fold the clamping lever.

  • replacement of tubes / tires;
  • tightening / loosening of the spokes;
  • bulkhead bushing;
  • rim painting.

Installing the front wheel on the fork is done in reverse order.

The device and installation of the front wheel on a bicycle

The front wheel of a bicycle is a driving unit, without which it is impossible to imagine a bike, perhaps a unicycle. The driven wheel, synchronized with the fork, is responsible for the trajectory of the bike and, to a greater extent, the rolling speed. Unlike the rear wheel, the front wheel is simpler in design, but also requires timely maintenance.

A bicycle, like a car, needs regular maintenance, and the front wheel is one such important component that should not be neglected. Let’s give him a little attention!

What does the wheel consist of?

Bicycle wheels are the most conservative component. Of course, there are models on cast disks, all-round wheels are put on track models, but they are in the minority. Still, the majority of bicycles are equipped with spoke wheels.

  • ordinary sleeve;
  • rim;
  • connecting knitting needles;
  • rim protective tape (flipper);
  • camera and tire;
  • disc (on models with disc brakes).

The hub is the axial part of the wheel, it is an assembly of the central axle, bearings and tapered retainers. Cone bearing systems are most often mounted on bushings with open bearings. They can also be equipped with sealed bearings or slips.

Rim. supporting structure, metal ring. The rims are made mostly of aluminum, with carbon rims being used on expensive models. In terms of rigidity and power, they are divided into three types:

  • single-walled. the outer and inner surfaces have one line of contact (jumper);
  • double. the inner surface is attached to the sidewalls, separated from the outer;
  • triple. the strongest and most durable option: the inner wall is also fixed to the sidewalls, but, unlike the double rim, the triple has an additional wall in the middle.

Vertical bridges form channels running in the direction of rotation. According to the number of such channels, modern rims are divided into one, three- and five-piece:

Spokes. elements of the connection between the hub and the rim. They perform the functions of securing, distributing loads along the rim and central axis, and mitigating vibrations during movement. The rim is perforated, each hole is designed to hold one spoke. The number of spokes is set on a bicycle wheel in multiples of four. Depending on the model, their number varies. from 28 to 40 on average.

The number of spokes for the front wheel is usually less than the number for the rear. This is due to the fact that the bulk of the load falls on the rear of the bike, and there the wheel must be stronger.

  • standard (rolled). constant circular cross-section along the entire length from the bushing attachment to the tip;
  • aerodynamic (blade-like). elliptical or rectangular profile;
  • variable cross-section (pulled). standard cross-section at the heads and tapering towards the middle.

The inner tube is the inside of the tire that holds the pressurized air inside. Tire. the outer shell that makes contact with the road, absorbs bumps, protects the camera. The tire is made of a harder rubber than the tube.

Rim tape, or flipper, is a rubber lining under the tube to protect it from puncture on the spoke tips. Dynamic loads force the walls of the chamber to bend, which causes them to be pressed against the rim surface. Without a flipper, the chamber can be pushed into the hole with the spoke tip. This problem is more pronounced on the rear wheel, where the loads are higher, but the presence of a flipper is mandatory on the front. The torn tape must be replaced with a new one. A proven homemade option. glue the rim with several layers of electrical tape, except for the hole for the nipple.

Bulkhead bushing, rim alignment, tube and tire replacement

The technical condition of the bike directly depends on the serviceability of all its components, including the front wheel. There are not so many problems with him, but they visit regularly:

  • wear of bushing components, production of lubricant;
  • curvature of the rim. eights;
  • chamber breakdowns, tire cracking.

The hub provides a fixed axle attachment to the dropouts and uniform, unhindered wheel rotation. Insufficient lubrication causes increased bearing friction and, as a result, rapid wear. Symptoms. the wheel is loose, pronounced backlash, difficult rotation, crunching.

So, how to disassemble the bushing: 1. Remove the axle from the dropouts (see above).

Loosen the retaining sleeve nut. To do this, you need two 17 mm keys. fix the nut firmly on the right with one, twist the other counterclockwise on the left.

Screw the cone. For the hookup, you will need a key for 14, then it can be easily twisted by hand.

Pull out the axle from the opposite side. Carefully remove the left bearing from the housing cavity and pull the right one off the cone.

Inspect everything carefully, especially the bearings. Damaged parts must be replaced with new ones.

  • Blow dirt out of an empty case.
  • Apply a thin layer of grease to the inner walls of the bushing using a narrow brush or cotton swab.
  • Wipe the axle, cones and bearings with kerosene and let dry (if installing the same components).
  • Lubricate the axle, bearings and tapers on the inner sides, which are in contact with the bearings. We do not regret lubrication on bearings: the more, the better. Gently wipe off excess with a clean cloth.
  • Put the right bearing on the corresponding cone with the side as it stood before.
  • Slide the axle into the bushing and install the left bearing on it.
  • Screw in the cone carefully. Its surface should touch, but not pinch the bearing.
  • Tighten bushing with nut.
  • Place the wheel on the dropouts and fix.

We check the work of the bushing. we spin the wheel with force. If everything on the hub bulkhead has been done correctly, the wheel will spin easily and soundlessly. If rotation is difficult or the bushing runs axially, the left cone must be loosened or retightened. Perhaps, for an accurate result, adjustment will be required several times, the main thing here is not to rush.

Eights are the most annoying wheel problem. It arises equally from the front and from the back. The front eight delivers less discomfort than the rear, but still, driving on a crooked wheel is not high. Consider how to quickly fix defects in a bicycle rim. To work, you need a universal spoke wrench, it looks like this:

Repair of the figure eight is done as follows:

  • Determine the maximum wheel bulge. In this area, pull up the needle at an angle that is a multiple of 1 turn.
  • Loosen two knitting needles at the edges at an angle, half the amount at which the central knitting needle was pulled.
  • Pull the next outer needles to an angle half the size, by which those two needles were weakened.

And so on, it all depends on the amount of curvature. The picture shows a scheme for eliminating a 7-spoke eight.

If the curvature is between the knitting needles, do this:

Replacing the chambers is easier than repairing rim defects, but also more often required. In order to properly and easily remove and install the tire, it is advisable to use special plastic assemblies.

  • Remove the wheel from the fork mountings.
  • Bleed air from the chamber (if we only change the tire).
  • Unscrew the protective cap from the nipple and push it down slightly.
  • On the opposite side, hook the tire bead with two assemblies.
  • With the third assembly, hook the bead on the sides until the tire comes off the rim. Now you can get the camera.
  • Pump up the camera a little so that it straightens.
  • Place the camera in the tire.
  • Select the correct direction of the tire using the arrow.
  • Insert the nipple into the hole in the rim.
  • Push the tire beads into the rim from the nipple side to the opposite end. When pushing becomes difficult, use editors.
  • Pull the nipple tube upward (for Schrader).
  • Check that the beads are completely in the rim and put the wheel on the bike.

Lacing Bike Wheel | How To

The front wheel on a bicycle is a simple unit that you can self-service at home with your own hands: disassemble and assemble the hub, change the tire and eliminate distortions on the rim. Serious problems. broken spokes, cracking of the hub body. will require the help of a specialist.