How to Mount the Rear Wheel on a Speed ​​Bike

How to properly install the rear wheel of a bicycle. How to change the rear wheel on a speed bike

Carrying out a spring revision of my old high-speed bike, we found an “eight” on the rear wheel. a change in its geometry. The rim was bent so much that it constantly touched the brake pads, making it impossible to drive safely.

First we decided to tighten the knitting needles. There are special ways to do this at home. For those who are interested, it is enough to search the Internet on how to fix the G8. A closer inspection revealed that a pair of spokes was missing. The plastic spoke guard installed on the wheel makes it difficult to install new ones, so it must be completely disassembled.

Turn the bike upside down, unscrew the eccentric clamp nut, remove the eccentric itself from the hole in the axle, release the footrest, remove the chain and wheel. In this case, you need to loosen the brake pads and release air from the wheel so that the tire does not cling to them.

Unscrew the nipple, pull out one side of the tire, gently prying it with a flat screwdriver, without tearing the camera. Take out the camera, then remove the tire.

Now you need to remove the asterisk. This cannot be done without a special puller, so we took care of its purchase in advance.

Inserts the puller inside the sprocket and unscrew it with a gas wrench. By the way, for these purposes, any key for 24.

Our speed bike had a single rim wheel. Almost all modern bikes are equipped with double rim wheels. They are believed to be stronger and more reliable. The difference in price is not very big, so we listened to the seller and bought a copy with a double rim.

At first, the plan for replacing the rear wheel on a speed bike seemed simple: screw the sprocket onto a new one, insert the tube, insert the tire, and mount it on the bike. But upon closer inspection, it turned out that the wheel axles are different. The old one. with a hole inside for the eccentric, and the new one. without it.

Therefore, I had to rearrange the axle from the old wheel to the new one. This requires 2 keys. We hold the locknut with one, and unscrew the other with the other. Having unscrewed, remove the washer and unscrew the locknut, which is the bearing boot. While loosening the nut, watch out for balls that may fall out of the gap formed. Now you can remove the axle.

Remove the axle from the new wheel in the same way. The lubricant in it is fresh, thick, so the bearing balls, sticking to it, were in their place.

Carefully, adding fresh grease, insert the axle with a hole for the eccentric onto the new wheel and tighten the nuts in the reverse order.

It is necessary to tighten the nuts with a cone for the bearing until there is no play in the carriage, but at the same time the wheel rotates freely. On both sides of the axle along the edges we leave a space equal to 1 cm so that it fits into the eyes of the rear fork of the bicycle. This distance is regulated by a bushing washer. By tightening the second nut, we fix the first with a key so that it does not move, otherwise the wheel will spin with effort.

Then we collect everything in the reverse order. Install the spoke protection, use a puller to twist the asterisk.

On the one hand we fill the tire, insert the camera, fill the tire completely. We pump the chamber with a pump, then we bleed the air so that it fits into place.

Now we take the wheel, put the chain on the sprocket and install the axle in the fork eyes. The tire, having pressed on it, must be pushed between the brake pads.

Install the footrest, insert the eccentric clip and secure it with a nut.

Let’s adjust the brakes by fixing the pads near the rim. We pump up the camera and make a test drive. This completes the replacement of the rear wheel of the sports bike. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Bicycle wheels

Check tire wear and damage. Make sure the rims are clean. If the wear indicator on the brake surface shows that the rim is worn out, replace it.

When you press the brake, the pads erase the rim. If the rim is worn too much, it will loose its strength over time and may break at any time, impairing handling and possibly causing a fall. Inspect the rims regularly. Replace excessively worn rims promptly.

Check for loose or damaged spokes. Make sure the rim tape is positioned correctly and completely covers all spoke holes.

Check if the bushing bearings are correctly adjusted.

Checking the bushing bearing adjustment

Raise the front of the bike off the ground with one hand and try to slide the rim from left to right. Watch and hear how bearings work.

Turn the wheel and listen for grinding or other unusual noises.

Do the same for the rear wheel.

If bushing wobbles or makes grinding noises, service. Bearing maintenance requires special tools and qualifications. Adjust bearings only at your dealer.

Bicycles can use different wheel attachment methods. Carefully read the instructions for the wheel lashing device installed on your bike.

If the wheel mount is not properly adjusted and closed, the wheel may loosen, impairing handling and may result in a fall. Before riding your bike, check if the wheels are well fixed.

Types of wheel fastening (fig. 32):

Threaded axle and nut

Traditional eccentric

Clix (arrows indicate parts that are missing in a traditional eccentric)

Through axis

Fitting a wheel with a conventional eccentric

Move the eccentric lever to the OPEN position (fig. 33) and place the wheel so that it completely touches the inner surfaces of the fork stays.

Leaving the lever in the adjustment position, tighten the adjusting nut (fig. 34), but not until it stops.

Close the eccentric; grasp the lever with your hand and move it as shown in fig. 35 to CLOSE position (fig. 36-37). You should feel some resistance as you move the lever.

Do not rotate the lever like a wing nut (fig. 36); this will not allow the wheel to be securely fastened.

If the lever pivots almost without resistance, the clamping force is insufficient. Return to step 2 and tighten the adjusting nut. Read also the note in fig. 39.

Align the levers so that they do not touch any part of the bike or any additional equipment (rack, guard, etc.), and so that no foreign objects can catch on them while riding.

The lever is open

Adjustment position

The lever is closed

Make sure the eccentric is correctly adjusted and closed. If the inspection reveals any problems, re-adjust or take the bike to a dealer for repair. Check again just before cycling.

Check eccentric adjustment:

Raise the bike and hit the tire hard from above (fig. 40). At the same time, the wheel should not jump off or stagger from side to side.

Make sure the closed eccentric lever does not rotate (fig. 41).

If the cam is properly closed, the clamping force will be sufficient to firmly adhere to the surfaces of the dropouts.

If more than 200 N of force is required to close the lever, loosen the adjusting nut slightly. If a force of less than 53.4 N is required to open the lever, tighten the adjusting nut slightly. Re-adjust the tightening if necessary.

Release the eccentric lever by moving it to the OPEN position (fig. 33).

Unscrew the adjusting nut three turns.

Slide the wheel out of the fork or frame.

2- Lock button

3- Adjusting nut

4- Eccentric axis

Installing the Clix cam wheel

The Clix eccentric differs from the traditional one. In the case of a conventional eccentric, the clamping force must be adjusted each time the wheel is installed. In the case of the Clix system, the force is regulated only for a specific fork. according to the width of the dropouts (the places where the wheel is attached to the fork). An integrated system is formed that cannot be adjusted when the wheel is installed.

The Clix cam is only adjustable for a specific wheel and fork. If you change the bike, wheel or fork, the eccentric may have less grip on the wheel, which will impair handling and may lead to a fall. Do not move the Clix eccentric to another bike, wheel, or fork without making adjustments.

Move the Clix eccentric to the OPEN position (fig. 43), squeeze the cup together with the lever (fig. 44) and lower the fork to the wheel so that the inner surfaces of the fork touch the wheel.

Some forks with special dropouts do not need to squeeze the cup with a lever. the fork will automatically slide to the wheel.

Close the Clix eccentric; grasp the lever with your hand and move it as shown in fig. 45 to CLOSE position (fig. 37).

2- Adjustment position

Do not rotate the lever like a wing nut (fig. 46); this will not allow the wheel to be securely fastened.

Align the lever so that it does not touch any part of the bike or any additional equipment (rack, guard, etc.), and that no foreign objects can catch on it while riding.

Position the lever so that it does not touch any part of the bike or additional equipment (trunk, guard, etc.), and so that foreign objects cannot catch on it (fig. 37).

If necessary, consult your dealer on how to properly close the eccentric without touching the bike.

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Make sure the Clix cam is closed properly. If the inspection reveals any problems, adjust the eccentric or take the bike to a dealer for repair. Check again just before cycling.

Examine the Clix eccentric and make sure it is closed:

Raise the bike and hit the tire hard from above (fig. 40). At the same time, the wheel should not jump off or stagger from side to side.

Make sure the closed eccentric lever is-

Rika does not turn (fig. 41).

If the lever closes almost without resistance, the clamping force is insufficient.

When the Clix cam is closed, the clamping force will be sufficient to firmly adhere to the surfaces of the dropouts.

Removing the Clix eccentric wheel

Release the Clix eccentric lever by moving it to the OPEN position (fig. 43).

Squeeze the cup and lever together (fig. 44) and push them in slightly to release the adjusting nut from the fork.

Remove the wheel from the fork.

Clix cam clamping force adjustment

Move the lever to the OPEN position (fig. 43).

There are marks on the lever and on the axle (fig. 47).

In the adjustment position, these marks are aligned. Leaving the lever in the adjustment position, tighten the adjusting nut, but not fully.

Close the lever and check the clamping force. refer to step 6 of the Clix Cam Wheel Installation procedure.

If the clamping force is adjusted correctly, close the lever

To ensure that the adjustment is not disturbed, put the lock nut (Fig. 42) and tighten it until it touches the adjusting nut.

Check the Clix accessory wheel mount. Move the lever to the OPEN position. Lift the front wheel off the ground and hit the tire firmly from above. The wheel must not protrude from the fork grooves. If the inspection reveals any problems, take the bike to a dealership for repair.

Lever mark

Installing a wheel on an axle with a thread and a nut

Some wheels are fastened with nuts screwed onto the hub axle. You may need to insert a lock washer between the nut and the tip of the fork. Some bikes also have pegs. tubular axle attachments.

Tighten the nuts on the axles with the appropriate torque:

For normal front wheel: 180-240 lb-in (20.3-27.1 Nm).

For a conventional rear wheel:

240-300 lb-in (27.1-33.9 Nm).

Make sure the wheel is secured correctly:

Raise the bike and hit the tire hard from above (fig. 40). At the same time, the wheel should not jump off or stagger from side to side.

If checking the attachment reveals any problems, repeat the procedure. Then check again. If the wheel is not properly secured, take the bike to a dealer for repair.

Installing a wheel on a through axle

Loosen the eccentric or loosen the tightening bolts at the ends of the fork.

Replace the wheel and insert it between the fork stays.

Close the eccentric or tighten the tightening bolts to 45-55 lb-in (5.1-6.2 Nm).

Make sure the wheel is secured correctly:

Raise the bike and hit the tire hard from above (fig. 40). At the same time, the wheel should not jump off or stagger from side to side.

If checking the attachment reveals any problems, repeat the procedure. Then check again. If the wheel is not properly secured, take the bike to a dealer for repair.

How to release the V-BRAKE brakes. Installing the front wheel. Installing the rear wheel

Removing a bicycle wheel is an elementary step for any cyclist. It is necessary to remove the wheel for a variety of reasons. repairing a punctured chamber, eliminating eights (if a stand is used), adjusting and lubricating the bushings. Often you have to remove the wheel when transporting the bike, for example, on a train.

But many novice cyclists have no idea how to do this. (Experienced, please do not laugh).

Naturally, removing the wheels is more convenient when the bike is turned upside down. There are no difficulties in overturning the bike (to the envy of motorists. a jack is not needed), the bike stands quite steadily on the handlebar and saddle. You just need to be more careful with the equipment that is installed on the steering tube. speedometers, flashlights, shifters. These items can be easily damaged on the floor / ground.

Happy owners of bicycles with hydraulic disc brakes should not forget that they are not advised to turn the bike upside down for a long time, because air bubbles from the expansion tank can enter the brake line. Nothing wrong with that, but after the bike is on the wheels, the brakes may need to be pumped. Also, do not press the brake levers of the hydraulic brakes while the bike is without wheels. the pads can get so close that it will be difficult to reinstall the wheel later.

If your bike has V-BRAKE brakes, they must be unfastened before removing the wheel. Sometimes, if there is a large-diameter tire on the wheel, then the solution of the brake levers is not enough to remove the wheel, and you have to bleed the air from the chamber.
Wheels can be mounted in the front fork and frame in two ways.

On entry-level bicycles, on teenage bikes, the wheel is attached to the fork ends with nuts screwed onto the axle ends. To remove the wheel, you need an adjustable wrench or box wrench of a suitable size.

How to release the V-BRAKE brakes.

The V-BRAKE brake pads are very close to the wheel rim. Therefore, in order to service the brakes, you must first unfasten the brake levers and spread them apart. You also have to release the brakes when removing the wheels. The procedures for unbuttoning and fastening do not differ in complexity and are performed within a few seconds, but for many novice cyclists, as well as for those who rode only domestic bicycles, this operation is not obvious, so I ask experienced ones not to laugh.

First, the rubber corrugated sheath of the cable. which is located between the brake levers, move aside the cable fastening screw and expose the entire cable tip.

We lower the clamp down and spread the brake levers to the sides. Done.

Now you can change pads, remove wheels.

The most important thing in this operation is not to forget then to return everything to its place, and not to leave with the brakes unbuttoned. (It won’t be funny at all)

mount, rear, wheel, speed, bike

Removing the front wheel. Installing the front wheel.

The front wheel is installed in the reverse order of removal. The most important thing is to correctly set the force with which the eccentric clamp holds the wheel in the fork. Overtightening is undesirable. either the clamp or the plug can be damaged. Too little force can cause the wheel to fall out of the fork (this is especially true for bicycles with disc brakes, because they exert significantly more forces on the fork than rim brakes).

Removing the rear wheel.

The rear wheel should be removed in approximately the same way as the front, only it is necessary to remove the wheel from the chain drive. To do this, first transfer the chain to the smallest rear sprocket.

Installing the rear wheel

Installation of the rear wheel is carried out in the reverse order, and the features of working with an eccentric clamp are the same as on the front wheel. Before installing, make sure that the rear derailleur is in the position corresponding to the smallest sprocket.

How to disassemble and reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

The rear wheel of a bicycle requires maintenance more often than other components. This is due to the fact that it is the most loaded element. it is it that accounts for the bulk of the user’s weight. Those who like to ride such a vehicle often and for a long time should learn how to disassemble and assemble the rear wheel of a high-speed bike correctly. Of course, you can go to the workshop, but if you have the necessary tools, any person can do all the work on disassembly, repair and maintenance independently, while receiving moral satisfaction and not burdening the family budget.

Main constituent parts

The rear wheel of a speed bike consists of the following parts:

  • bushings;
  • cassettes with driven sprockets;
  • knitting needles;
  • rim;
  • tire with tube.

In this case, the following points should be taken into account:

  • Rear wheel hub designs may vary in size, shape, and bearing type.
  • The speed bike cassette can also be of various designs and contain from three to eleven sprockets.
  • The hub through the spokes is quite rigidly connected to the wheel rim. Usually on high-speed bicycles there are either 28, 32, or 36 spokes, and the pattern of their weave can also be different.
  • Mountain bike rims are usually box-shaped, as opposed to single-tube rims. As the weight of the outer part of the wheel is always tried to be reduced, the most common material is aluminum based alloys.

Required tools

It may be necessary to dismantle the rear wheel in the following cases:

  • there is damage to the rim;
  • broken tire or deflated tube;
  • complete wheel wear.

For disassembly and subsequent assembly of the rear wheel of a bicycle with your own hands, in addition to traditional open-end wrenches, you will also need special tools:

  • a puller for the type of cassette that is installed on a bicycle (for example, the mechanism of cassettes of the Stealth model and HVZ road vehicles has a completely different design, therefore, suitable types of pullers are needed);
  • whip. a cassette fixing device, consisting of a lever with pieces of a bicycle chain attached to it;
  • a spoke wrench (it is desirable that it has at least three slot sizes, which will allow you to capture even old knitting needles with a knocked-down square of heads);
  • special spoons for tire bead.

Dismantling instructions

Obviously, in order to repair a wheel, it must be removed from the bike. For this, it is better to put the latter on the handlebar and saddle, after removing the attachments. There are two ways to fix the wheel to the frame:

  • an eccentric through the hollow axis;
  • nuts or lambs.

In the first case, you just need to turn the eccentric lever 180 degrees and then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the axle. In the case of an eccentric attachment, the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle on one side does not extend beyond the thickness of the fork in which it is installed. Experienced users must take this point into account when repairing. In the second case, the rear wheel hub axle is always longer than the distance between the fork stays by at least 15–20 mm. Thus, the axle extension beyond the outer side of the fork should in no way be less than 5-6 mm on each side. It is important to observe these ratios when re-assembling the rear wheel hub. After the fasteners are removed or loosened, the chain must be dropped from the drive sprocket and the wheel can be removed. If the bike is equipped not with disc brakes, but with rim brakes, then most likely you will need to dissolve them by throwing off the brake cable from the traction.

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Eccentric Nut

Renovation work

Before you start disassembling and assembling the rear wheel of a high-speed bike, you need to find a comfortable place to stock up on gloves so as not to get your hands dirty. If there is no relevant experience, you should strictly follow the sequence of actions, take into account all the subtleties. A great help in this matter. training videos.

Removing the sleeve

Repair and maintenance of the rear wheel hub begins with dismantling the cassette with driven sprockets. For this, you will need a special tool in the form of a whip and a puller. The cassette is always mounted on the wheel on the right-hand thread. This is what ensures its rigid connection with the element itself and allows it to be rotated clockwise. This means that you need to remove the cassette by spinning it in the opposite direction. This opens access to the axle and bearings.

Any diagram indicates that the bushing designs for road, road and mountain bikes are different in structure. The very center of the rear wheel is equipped with three types of bearings:

  • industrial bearings (usually with anthers);
  • cone-cup bearings with balls on the cage;
  • cone-cup bearings with loose balls.

Disassembly of the rear wheel hub starts from the left side. Sequencing:

  • With one wrench, grip the cone on the right side, and with the second, the locknut on the left and screw it.
  • Remove the washer between the locknut and the cone. The last element should be screwed off the axis without any effort.
  • After removing the cone, carefully remove the cage or pour out the balls (depending on which type of bearing is installed in a particular model). Sometimes, in the case of balls, for this you need to shift the axis to the left.
  • Place the balls in kerosene or other petroleum-based solvent.
  • After that, remove the balls from the right side equally carefully. It is better not to screw the right cone and locknut unnecessarily. This will allow you to maintain the position of the axle and later fix the wheel in the bike fork without unnecessary problems.
  • Carefully inspect the working surface of the cleaned cones. The slightest irregularities indicate that they must be replaced.
  • If there is damage to the surface of the cups, then the entire rear wheel hub must also be replaced. If everything is in good condition, then you can proceed to the assembly procedure.

When assembling the wheel, first of all, liberally lubricate the surface of the hub cups. A grease is fine for this. It is necessary to squeeze balls into the layer of the agent on the right side of the bushing or install a cage with bearings and insert an axle. If you had to shift the axis to the right to remove the balls from the left side, then it should not be inserted all the way, but just enough so that it would allow the balls to be put in place.

After installing the balls or a cage, it is necessary to insert the axle to the end and screw the left cone onto it so that it rests against the balls. Then replace the washer and tighten the left lock nut with slight effort. It is necessary to unscrew the cone on both sides with force so as to ensure free rotation of the axis. If the rotation of the wheel is not light enough or there is play, it is necessary to re-adjust the pressure of the cone on the left side of the axle.

If during the inspection of the surface of the cups damage was found, then the sleeves must be replaced. This process is rather complicated. Before removing the bushing, you need to study the instructions. The fact is that to replace the element, you need to spacing the wheel.

It is necessary to unscrew all the spoke heads and remove them from the hub. The likelihood of making a mistake will be much less if, when removing the parts, immediately insert them into the corresponding socket of the new bushing. After all the spokes are in place, it is necessary, by tightening them, to give the wheel the shape of an umbrella, and then align the rim. In the process of work, the vertical runout of the wheel is first eliminated. After they have disappeared or reduced to a minimum, horizontal beats are eliminated. In this case, it is necessary to loosen the knitting needles on one side and immediately tighten the knitting needles on the other side by the same number of revolutions.

Camera replacement

To remove the tube from the tire, you must completely deflate it. You need to pry the latter with spoons for disassembly, inserting them at a distance of about 15 cm from one another. After that, you need to start to spread the spoons little by little until the entire side of the tire is removed from the rim. It remains to remove the nipple and remove the camera.

Installing a new camera is carried out in the reverse order:

  • You need to insert the nipple into the rim and tuck the entire tube into the tire around the circumference, avoiding twisting and wrinkling.
  • Before beading the tire onto the rim, you can slightly inflate the tube so that it takes its shape and takes its place in the tire.
  • After prying the tire, it is necessary to fill it with spoons into the rim, first in the area of ​​the nipple and then along the circumference.

After making sure that the tire has taken its place on the rim, you can inflate the tube to working pressure. After that, it remains to deal with the installation of the rear wheel of the bike, and the repair can be considered complete.

Installing the rear wheel

To return the rear wheel to its place, you must install it in the fork and put a chain on one of the sprockets. Now it is necessary to center the position of the element on the bicycle so that it is between the stays of both the upper and lower parts of the rear fork of the frame and looks strictly in the middle of the pedal axle carriage. Holding the wheel in this position, you need to fix it in the fork with standard nuts or an eccentric. It is important not to forget to restore the brake cable tension and place the chain on the drive sprocket. After installation, it is advisable to make sure that the steps taken are correct, to conduct a test drive. In the process, it is necessary to trace how the bike behaves after repair.

Maintenance and diagnostics of the rear wheel of a high-speed bicycle are mandatory procedures to maintain the serviceability of the mechanisms and long-term operation of the vehicle. Novice users will have more difficulty, but you can always follow the instructions and read the advice of experienced craftsmen. Having completed the repair work yourself, it will be possible to save the family budget.

Video. DEVICE AND INSTALLATION OF THE FRONT WHEEL ON THE BIKE

The front wheel of a bicycle is a driving unit, without which it is impossible to imagine a bike, except perhaps a unicycle. The driven wheel, synchronized with the fork, is responsible for the trajectory of the bike and, to a greater extent, the rolling speed. Unlike the rear wheel, the front wheel is simpler in design, but also requires timely maintenance.

A bicycle, like a car, needs regular maintenance, and the front wheel is one such important component that should not be neglected. Let’s give him a little attention!

What does the wheel consist of?

Bicycle wheels are the most conservative component. Of course, there are models on cast disks, all-round wheels are put on track models, but they are in the minority. Still, the majority of bicycles are equipped with spoke wheels.

The front wheel structure is as follows:

  • ordinary sleeve;
  • rim;
  • connecting knitting needles;
  • rim protective tape (flipper);
  • camera and tire;
  • disc (on models with disc brakes).

The hub. the axial part of the wheel, is an assembly of the central axle, bearings and tapered retainers. Cone bearing systems are most often mounted on bushings with open bearings. They can also be equipped with sealed bearings or slips.

Open bearing bush

Rim. supporting structure, metal ring. The rims are mostly made of aluminum, with carbon rims being used on expensive models. In terms of rigidity and power, they are divided into three types:

  • single-walled. the outer and inner surfaces have one line of contact (jumper);
  • double. the inner surface is attached to the sidewalls, separated from the outer;
  • triple. the strongest and most durable option: the inner wall is also fixed to the sidewalls, but, unlike the double rim, the triple has an additional wall in the middle.

Vertical bridges form channels running in the direction of rotation. According to the number of such channels, modern rims are divided into one, three- and five-piece:

Spokes. elements of the connection between the hub and the rim. They perform the functions of securing, distributing loads along the rim and central axis and mitigating vibrations during movement. The rim is perforated, each hole is designed to hold one spoke. The number of spokes on a bicycle wheel is a multiple of four. Depending on the model, their number varies. from 28 to 40 on average.

The number of spokes for the front wheel is usually less than the number for the rear. This is due to the fact that the bulk of the load falls on the rear of the bike, and there the wheel must be stronger.

By the type of section, the spokes are divided into:

  • standard (rolled). constant circular cross-section along the entire length from the bushing attachment to the tip;
  • aerodynamic (blade-like). elliptical or rectangular profile;
  • variable cross-section (pulled). standard cross-section at the heads and tapering towards the middle.
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The inner tube is the inner part of the tire that holds the pressurized air inside. Tire. the outer shell, in contact with the road, absorbs bumps, protects the camera. The tire is made of a harder rubber than the tube.

Rim tape, or flipper, is a rubber lining under the tube to protect it from puncture on the spoke tips. Dynamic loads force the chamber walls to bend, causing them to be pressed against the rim surface. Without a flipper, the chamber can be pushed into the spoke-tipped hole. This problem is more pronounced on the rear wheel, where the loads are higher, but the presence of a flipper is mandatory on the front. The torn tape must be replaced with a new one. A proven homemade option. glue the rim with several layers of electrical tape, except for the hole for the nipple.

Removing the front wheel from the fork

Removing a wheel is the simplest maintenance procedure for your bike. This is done very simply:

  • Turn the bike upside down.
  • Release the rim brake, remove the caliper from the disc.
  • Loosen the fasteners from the fork dropouts.
  • Remove the wheel axle from the mountings.

On dropouts, the mount is nut and eccentric. In the first case, you will need two 15 mm wrenches. we hold the nut with one, and gently twist the other on the opposite side. With the eccentric, everything is easier. loosen the retaining nut and fold the clamping lever.

Dismantling sequence

Before removing the front wheel from the bike, it is necessary to get rid of the bike itself of all accessories and additional devices so as not to damage them under the weight of the structure during the dismantling process.

  • We turn the bike upside down, put it on the stand for repair. Or, in the absence of a special rack, simply on a handlebar with a saddle.
  • Now you need to decide on the type of brake system installed on the bike.
  • Disc brakes won’t be a hassle when removing a wheel. The only thing to consider is that hydraulic brakes do not like the inverted position, because air can enter the system. In this case, the brakes will have to be pumped after all the procedures performed with your bike.
  • The rim brakes will need to be released before removing the structure from the mountings. To do this, squeeze the levers with your hands and remove the end of the cable from the clamp, then spread the levers to the sides.
  • The hub axle is attached to the fork by means of an eccentric or nuts. In the first case, you just need to unscrew the eccentric, unscrew and remove the wheel from the ends of the fork, gently pulling it up. In the second, unscrew the nut with a wrench; for convenience, you can hold it with a second wrench during unscrewing.

After the wheel has been removed, you can continue to carry out the necessary work with it, for which it, in fact, was removed.

Installation sequence

To properly install the front wheel on the bike, you must follow exactly the reverse procedure for removing.

  • We insert the wheel into the grooves of the frame until it stops. Here it is important not to confuse the position of the structure. the direction in which the rotation will occur is indicated by arrows on the tires.
  • We fasten the nuts or eccentrics in place. You cannot overtighten, but the fixation must be strong enough.
  • Fasten back the rim brakes Putting the rim brakes back
  • We turn the bike over to its usual position.

Despite the fact that the front driven wheel is a little simpler in its structure than the rear one, it is still responsible for the course of movement and needs proper care, lubrication of parts, tightening of the spokes.

The rear drive wheel has many mechanisms, but the principle of dismantling and installation is the same, except that it will have to be removed from the chain drive and put the chain in place during installation.

Question answer

It can be a simple eight. 2. It may be an axle not fully inserted into the dropout, unscrew the nuts and push it straight. 3. Perhaps the wheel is shifted to the right side due to the fact that the axle is longer on one side. It is necessary to unscrew the nuts on it, put it so that the axle length is the same on both sides of the wheel, and tighten the nuts.

Lift the led. Spin the wheels. Look how bad it spins. Try to loosen the nuts on the bushings. Maybe the bearings are overtightened, but do not relax much, otherwise there will be a backlash.

How to remove and install a wheel

How to remove and put on (install, place) a wheel on a bicycle, front or rear? It seems to be a funny question for an experienced cyclist. But, note, in addition to experienced cyclists, there are also inexperienced.

So how is it? Everything seems to be simple. let the clamping nuts on the wheel axle, or in general a quick-release eccentric. and that’s it. But for an inexperienced cyclist, the devil is in the details, and there are many such details here.

Two receptions

There are two techniques used to remove and install a bicycle wheel:

  • emergency removal and installation into place, without its complete disassembly. It is used when a bicycle tube or tire is damaged (punctured, cut), to repair or replace them. In this case, all units and parts hung on it. the brake rotor of disc brakes, cassette or ratchet. are not removed, they remain on the bicycle during the entire period of repair work.
  • removal and installation with complete disassembly. It is used when you need to repair or replace the wheel rim, partially or completely replace the spoke set, wheel hub, or send the bicycle for storage in a closet or garage. In this case, you should disassemble both the front and rear wheels of the bicycle. remove the brake rotor, cassette (ratchet), tire and camera. This can be considered a partial disassembly. And in the case of major repairs, you will have to completely dismantle the spoke set and wheel hub, which will already be considered a complete disassembly. Before installing such a disassembled bicycle wheel, you should assemble it together with all the nodes and parts hung on it.

General procedure for removing a bicycle wheel

  • First, you need to put your bike in a stable position. You can just lean it against the wall, hang it on hooks, fix it in a rack. But the easiest and most accessible way is to turn it 180 degrees, “upside down”, and put it on the handlebars and saddle.
  • Remove the chain from the driven sprocket (cassette, ratchet) of the rear wheel (if it is necessary to remove it).
  • Lower the clamping nuts on the axle of the wheel hub, with which the bicycle is attached to the dropouts of the front fork (front) or rear stays (respectively, rear). They must not be completely unscrewed, but let go until the wheel hub axle starts to move freely in the grooves of the dropouts. If the axle mount of the wheel hub is quick-release, on the eccentric, then simply. release (unclench) the eccentric.
  • Carefully remove the wheel from the bike, carefully disengaging it from various parts and assemblies (brakes, rear derailleur, control bowdens and power wires).

General procedure for installing a bicycle

  • Place the bike in a stable position.
  • Mount all mounted units and parts of the brake system and transmission (if they were removed) on the wheel. The clamping nuts on the axle of the wheel hub must be loosened (eccentric. released).
  • For the rear wheel, bring the hub axle to the feather dropouts. Place the chain on the driven sprocket (cassette, ratchet).
  • Carefully insert the wheel hub axle into the grooves in the dropouts. At the same time, make sure that the elements of the brake systems and bicycle transmission fall into place.
  • Pre-tighten the clamping nuts (eccentric) to the dropouts.
  • Spin the bicycle wheel, monitor the alignment of its installation. On its full circle of wrapping around the axis, the bicycle tire should be at the same distance from the legs of the front fork and rear frame stays, should not rub against them. If necessary, loosen the tightening nuts (eccentric) again and adjust the position of the wheel in the dropouts.
  • Finally tighten the clamping nuts (eccentric) to the dropouts.

Features of removing and installing bicycle wheels

The peculiarities of removing and installing bicycle wheels are determined by the design features of the brake systems and bicycle transmission used. Since only the drive rear wheel interacts with the transmission of the bike, it is usually somewhat more difficult to remove and reinstall it than the front one. Assemble the rear wheel of a bicycle together with attachments and parts (cassette or ratchet, brake rotor) before installing it on the bicycle.

  • On bikes with single speed single speed hubs or multi-speed planetary hubs that use drum brakes, remove the rear wheel from the brake arm mount to the right rear dropout (usually a bolt and nut). When installing the rear wheel in place, respectively, you should screw the brake lever back to its mount.
  • In the case of a multi-speed planetary hub. when removing the rear wheel, you must also disconnect the bowden cable that controls the gear change (when installing it, connect the control bowden back).
  • In the case of using rim brakes (vibrating racks, tick-borne) both on the rear and front wheels, you should open them with your hands and disengage (insert) the removed (installed) wheel from engagement (into engagement) with brake pads.
  • In the case of using disc brakes on both the rear and front wheels, in parallel with the removal (insertion) of the wheel axle of the hub from (in) the dropouts, follow the careful removal (introduction) of the brake rotor from (to) its place between the brake pads into braking mechanism. calliper. Remove the wheel carefully enough so that the brake rotor does not bend.
  • If it is a motor-wheel of an electric bicycle (electric bike), then to remove (install) it, disconnect (connect) the power cable from the battery. For the rest, the motor wheel should be removed and installed as well, in compliance with the same rules and requirements as an ordinary bicycle.