To eliminate the backlash or, on the contrary, tighten the cone, we need a pair of keys, usually a 15 mm open-end cone wrench, and a 17 mm open-end cone wrench. First we need to loosen the locknut, then loosen or tighten the flare nut to the desired value, ideally there should be no backlash, then tighten the locknut again.
With a normally adjusted cone, the wheel should turn easily under the weight of the reflector or nipple.
There is a moment when the axle of the hub of a bicycle wheel breaks or bends, most often this is due to poor quality parts. In such cases, it is necessary to completely replace the hub axle with a new one of a higher quality. When replacing the hub axle, or when you need to do maintenance or repair the rear hub of the bicycle, for convenience, you can remove the ratchet, if you just need to tighten or loosen the cone, you can do without this action.
Curved rear wheel hub axle.
In order for breakdowns to occur less often, it is necessary to do periodic maintenance, mainly this is the adjustment of the cone as well as washing, cleaning parts and lubricating the bearings, sometimes replacing bearings, seals or washers.
Amateur Cyclist Blog
The most common problem with the rear hub of a bicycle, which can lead to the need to repair the rear wheel of the bicycle. this is an arbitrary tightening or loosening of the cone. If the cone of the rear hub is loosened, then a large amount of play will be noticeable in the wheel. Alternatively, if the cone is overtightened, the severity of the bike’s travel is noticeably increased and the crunch of the bearings can be heard. In both cases, it is necessary to immediately repair the rear hub of the bike. To eliminate these malfunctions, it is necessary to remove the rear wheel from the bike, if it is a sports high-speed or mountain bike, then an eccentric clamp can be used on them, and in this case the wheel is removed without using additional keys. On entry-level bicycles, the wheel can be screwed in with two nuts, you need a couple of wrenches.
Eccentric locking rear hub.
THAT the back vlulka. disassembly, maintenance and assembly
Repairing a bicycle rear hub can be expensive if it is rarely serviced and supervised.
For example, it happens that the bearings “eat away” in the housing of the rear bushing of the hole, possibly due to axle curvature or lack of lubrication. In this situation, the repair of the rear wheel of a bicycle consists in a complete replacement of the hub body or even the wheel itself. Therefore, so that this does not happen, it is necessary to inspect your two-wheeled horse before each long-distance cycling trip, and during troubleshooting.
How to change the rear wheel on a speed bike
During the spring revision of my old high-speed bike, I found an eight on the rear wheel. a change in its geometry. The rim was bent so much that it constantly touched the brake pads, making it impossible to drive safely.
First we decided to tighten the knitting needles. There are special ways to do this at home. For those who are interested, it is enough to search the Internet for how to fix the eight. A closer inspection revealed that a pair of spokes was missing. The plastic spoke guard installed on the wheel makes it difficult to install new ones, so it must be completely disassembled.
Turn the bike upside down, unscrew the eccentric clamp nut, remove the eccentric itself from the hole in the axle, release the footrest, remove the chain and wheel. In this case, you need to loosen the brake pads and release air from the wheel so that the tire does not cling to them.
Unscrew the nipple, pull out one side of the tire, gently prying it with a flat screwdriver, without tearing the camera. Take out the camera, then remove the tire.
Now you need to remove the asterisk. It is impossible to do this without a special puller, so we took care of its purchase in advance.
Inserts the puller inside the sprocket and unscrew it with a gas wrench. By the way, for these purposes, any key for 24.
Our speed bike had a single rim wheel. Almost all modern bikes are equipped with double rim wheels. It is believed that they are stronger and more reliable. The difference in price is not very big, so we listened to the seller and bought a copy with a double rim.
At first, the plan for replacing the rear wheel on a speed bike seemed simple: screw the sprocket onto a new one, insert the tube, insert the tire, and mount it on the bike. But upon closer inspection, it turned out that the wheel axles are different. The old one. with a hole inside for the eccentric, and the new one. without it.
Therefore, I had to rearrange the axle from the old wheel to the new one. This requires 2 keys. We hold the locknut with one, and unscrew the other with the other. Having unscrewed, remove the washer and unscrew the locknut, which is the bearing boot. When unscrewing the nut, watch out for balls that may fall out of the gap formed. Now you can remove the axle.
In the same way, we remove the axle from the new wheel. The grease in it is fresh, thick, so the bearing balls, sticking to it, were in their place.
Carefully, adding fresh grease, insert the axle with a hole for the eccentric onto the new wheel and tighten the nuts in the reverse order.
It is necessary to tighten the nuts with a cone for the bearing until there is no play in the carriage, but at the same time the wheel rotates freely. On both sides of the axle along the edges, we leave a space equal to 1 cm so that it fits into the eyes of the rear fork of the bicycle. This distance is adjusted with a bushing washer. Tightening the second nut, we fix the first with a key so that it does not move, otherwise the wheel will spin with effort.
Then we collect everything in the reverse order. Install the spoke protection, use the puller to twist the asterisk.
On the one hand, fill the tire, insert the camera, fill the tire completely. We pump the chamber with a pump, then bleed the air so that it fits into place.
Now we take the wheel, put the chain on the sprocket and install the axle in the eyes of the fork. The tire, having pressed on it, must be pushed between the brake pads.
Install the footrest, insert the eccentric clip and secure it with a nut.
Let’s adjust the brakes by fixing the pads near the rim. We pump up the camera and make a test drive. This completes the replacement of the rear wheel of the sports bike. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.
How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike
- When it is necessary to remove the rear wheel
- Replacing the bike camera
- bulkhead bushing and cassette removal
- installation and assembly of the rear wheel on the bike
Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a proper bike maintenance procedure. Undoubtedly, the wheel, in addition to the most advanced bike, will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or, by and large, the entire tire, and wear of a set of sprockets for the rear wheel.
Skillful cyclists welcome independent wheel repair, and for a reason: it’s cheaper, and you get more skills. It is possible to contact a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is unlikely to be located under the windows of the house, so the bike will need to be dragged, which is not very pleasant.
In order to avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Now let’s chat about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.
When it is necessary to remove the rear wheel
It is unlikely that the thought would just come to mind to unscrew the chassis from the bicycle frame, if, of course, the person does not specialize in bicycle dismantling. But this is quite the second case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if such troubles are observed:
- noticeable damage to the rim;
- complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
- the camera has deflated or the tire has burst;
- bulkhead bushing.
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This also includes the planned replacement of the set of rear chains and sprockets.
Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the handlebar and saddle. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, a lantern and a bell in advance, so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely.
With disc models, everything is easier. it is possible to remove the wheel right away.
It must be stated that the removal process itself is contained only in the lapel of the eccentric or by unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two keys.
In most cases, one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed at the same time in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end or box wrenches.
The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns eat up the corners of the nut due to sliding and loose fit.
To remove and remove the tire of the damaged chamber, you need to remove the remaining air space: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by constant pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often and not uncommon in case of punctures, then the cap.
In order to remove the tire, special mounting paddles will come in handy. It goes without saying that it is possible to pry the camera with a simple screwdriver and also with a knife, but it is better to have an experienced tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple.
When it begins to tighten, it is necessary to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficient free part of the tire is formed, and it can be normally pulled off the rim.
It is necessary to tighten it very carefully, so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. While the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, after which the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.
Attention! The camera must lie flat, without bends, otherwise it will need to be reinstalled. At the bottom of the rim, there must be a flipper that protects from the spokes.
If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of narrow electrical tape.
The outer part of the tire is put on top of the rim, now, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. In most cases, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position.
But, with the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike, it’s easy to make a mistake, thanks to the cassette on the side. At the end of the installation, the camera is pumped.
A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel already creaks and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the big one rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.
The main problem with the bushing is insufficient lubrication and bearing play. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, the details begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel was not serviced in the distant past, the bearings can largely crumble.
To gain access to the hub bearings, it will be necessary to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.
The reverse gear is removed using a puller, an already called whip. Removing the cassette is a short-lived affair, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:
- The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
- The whip holds the huge star of the aggregate, so that it does not turn.
- With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
- We remove the small stars, which are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and after that we remove the cassette itself.
Before disassembling the bushing, go a little to loosen the tension on the spokes. This can be done using a round key with knock-out holes for different diameters of the knitting needles. It is not necessary to loosen much, a quarter of a revolution is enough.
If the sleeve needs to be replaced, then the spokes must be unscrewed so that it can be easily removed from the engagement.
A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings are damaged. But usually, when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in its normal state, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, yes, and then, and the second will still be faithful and true, if they are perfectly lubricated.
Proper lubrication will not allow parts to wear out under dynamic loads.
Speed bike rear hub diagram
The bulkhead of the axial part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The extracted parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position.
But, during the backlash, the details are already faulty, based on this, the best option would be to replace.
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High-quality wheel repair is not only disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. At the last stage, this whole chaos must be collected in reverse order. All the details of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and are whisperingly secured with locknuts.
The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.
Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here it is necessary to remember the direction of the weakening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.
The cassette is put on the sleeve in the following order:
- main stars;
- single stars, small stars;
- tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.
All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides.
At the end of the assembly, you need to turn the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride normally!
Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Regardless of the ease of maintenance, the wheel can take up a lot of time at first. But, if you find in memory what importance the wheels have for a bicycle, it will not turn out to be such a large number.
What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take a matter of 60 seconds.
There are three types of defects.
EIGHT. when the wheel rotates, it moves so that the rim is not in the same plane constantly.
EGG. wheel beating up and down when spinning.
UMBRELLA. constant displacement of the wheel to the right or left relative to the hub.
All of the above defects are corrected by loosening the knitting needles from the side of the bend and pulling up from the opposite. It is important to remember that when the tension of one spoke changes, the tension of the others changes, and all the needles are involved in correcting one or another defect. To gradually reduce the defect to naught, you need a wheel straightening machine. You can use a bicycle instead of a machine. If your bike has V-break rim brake mounts, it couldn’t be easier. Removing the brake,
We put on a clothespin on one of the pins (photo 14,15)
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And, moving it to the edge of the rim, we rotate the wheel. Having found the place of the defect in this way and having adjusted the tension of the spokes as needed, we repeat the operation. Thus, you can straighten a figure eight or an egg. The umbrella can be easily straightened by eye.
So, you can put the wheel on the bike and go. Just do not forget to inspect the wheel afterwards and correct new defects if they appear. And henceforth, be careful and watch the pressure in the chambers. it is better to pump a little than to correct the wheel or assemble it again.
Features of radial lacing
Experienced specialists use this type of lacing mainly for the front wheels. This is explained by the fact that they are less subject to stress from the pedals and brakes. But, despite this, the wheel receives a colossal load, which is directed vertically. That is why, with radial lacing, a large number of knitting needles are used. Mechanics recommend the optimal number of spokes 32.
Such a spoke is not very reliable and therefore, of the advantages of this type, only the appearance of the wheel can be called, thanks to which the sun was named.
It is worth noting that with this method of lacing, it does not play a big role where the spoke head is facing. At the request of the cyclist, it can be directed inward of the hub flanges, and outward.
Replacing the camera
First of all, you need to lower the wheel. unscrew the cap and release the air by pressing the nipple. If the chamber is damaged and there is no air in it, simply remove the cap. To remove the tire, you will need mounting paddles, with which it will be convenient to pry on the tube until it becomes easy to pull it off the rim.
The camera can be replaced without the need for tools. First, the nipple is inserted into the hole in the rim, after which the tire is evenly put on the rim. Finally, the camera needs to be pumped up to the desired state.
Disassembly, cleaning / lubrication
How do I remove the rear wheel hub on my bike for cleaning and lubrication? The following procedure is required:
- the stopper opens;
- washers with bearings are removed;
- troubleshooting is carried out by examining the surface of the bearings: worn out elements must be replaced, the rest are cleaned with a solvent;
- the axis is removed;
- inside the case is cleaned with a soft cloth, all elements are lubricated (special attention must be paid to the bearings).
How to assemble a bicycle rear wheel hub? Assembling the rear wheel of a mountain bike or any other bike is carried out in the reverse order. When installing parts inside the case, you must first put grease on its walls.
Important! When tightening, it is necessary to avoid overtightening, otherwise it may jam and excessive wear of the structure during operation.
The rear wheel is then replaced. How to do this is shown in the video.
Before proceeding to disassemble the rear wheel of a bicycle to repair the hub, you must clearly understand the order of these actions. Otherwise, the situation will only get worse. If you are not 100% confident in your own abilities, watch the video, which will tell you everything in detail.
Features of tangential lacing
This spoke perfectly withstands all the stresses that occur during driving. At the same time, there is one caveat: the wider the angle formed between the flanges and the spoke, the stronger the wheel. This is because with this arrangement, the load is evenly distributed without causing any particular damage to the bike.
Tangential spoke lacing is ideal for rear wheels, including disc ones. They are always loaded with pedals and brakes. The most popular and durable design is the three crosses. This drawing has proven its durability and reliability over time and tests.
With mixed spoke lacing, the center spoke in relation to the rim is like a sun spoke, and the side spokes are crossed.
Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication
Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care.
First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the circlip and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.
If any part is damaged, even the smallest scratches, they should be replaced. Next, you need to pull out the axle, clean the body from dirt with a soft dry cloth, and then start lubricating the parts. We do this as we put the parts in their places.
Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other
One of the reasons for dividing the rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear bushings are divided into:
- Without brake.
- With built-in brakes.
It should be said that bushings that are not equipped with a braking mechanism are also divided into those without free play and with free play. With an integrated foot brake, the hubs are designed with free play. If we are talking about a hub with a brake mechanism, then their main feature is that the pedals must be pressed in the opposite direction to stop the bike.
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According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or they can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts must be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It only takes a couple of seconds.
The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:
- Aluminum (lightweight and non-corrosive).
- Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).
The bushings also differ in the size of the axle, the standards are different. from 9mm to 15mm. Note that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.
Adjusting the bushings or how to overcome the backlash
When there are already many kilometers behind, then any technique needs maintenance and adjustment. You are already accustomed to the sounds that your bike makes when riding, but if you take it by the frame and again abruptly lower it to the ground, but you hear not only the usual tinkling of the chain, but also a dull thumping is not clear from where, then it’s time to check the bike for backlash! It is not at all difficult to detect backlash. It can appear in the steering column, bottom bracket or wheel hubs. With one hand we will hold the bike by the frame, and with the other hand we will try to swing the wheel from the side.
If the wheel rim sways in the frame or fork from side to side and a tapping is heard in the hub, then the cones need to be adjusted. Most bicycle hubs have loose bearings. This means that there is a track in the sleeve, into which balls are poured and pressed by a cone. The compression of these cones will just need to be adjusted.
To adjust the cones, it is recommended to stock up on special adjusting keys. They differ from ordinary keys in their thickness. Adjustment of the front and rear wheels is carried out in the same way (the front is a little easier to adjust due to the lack of a cassette with stars). First you need to remove the wheel from the bike. Open the eccentric lever and loosen the nut on the opposite side.
Then completely pull the eccentric clamp out of the sleeve. The main thing here is not to lose the small springs that make it easier to install the wheel in the frame. Now you need to remove the rubber anthers from the bushing (we remove both anthers at once from the front, and the one on the left from the rear). Do this carefully so that the anthers remain intact. If the boot sits tightly, then you can pry it off with a thin, not pointed object.
Now take the keys and open the cone. To do this, rotate the lock nut counterclockwise, holding the cone with the second wrench. Start with the cone located on the left in the direction of travel (this does not apply to the front rim brake hub, as it is symmetrical).
When the locknut is turned out almost to the end, we unscrew the cone after it.
Now we push the axle to the right side of the hub so that there is access to the right cone and locknut (in the case of the front wheel, this is not required, since the cones on both sides can be adjusted simply by removing the anthers).
It is necessary to counter the right cone just in case. After all, it is possible that backlashes appeared precisely because of this cone. To do this, holding the cone with one key, turn the lock nut clockwise with the second key.
Pull the left cone and locknut back to the bushing by hand. Now let’s use one little trick. We take an eccentric with a nut, but without springs and insert it into the bushing so that the eccentric lever is on the side of the cassette.
Then we pull the wheel to the frame as shown in the photo and begin to tighten the cone with a wrench, immediately checking how the wheel is spinning. When the wheel rotates freely and without play, we begin to tighten the lock nut, again holding the cone from rotation.
With this method of adjustment, it is important not to apply excessive force, otherwise there is a risk of spoiling the eccentric. But on the other hand, this way you can adjust the cone even alone, being away from home and workshop. If, after adjustment, the bearings are overtightened and the wheel moves in jerks, then this means that the cone should be loosened by loosening the locknut again and unscrewing the cone by half a turn. Achieve smooth rotation and remember to counter the taper after tuning!
Now we put the wheel in place, not forgetting to install the rubber boots and give the eccentric its usual position. when the lever is to the left of the bike. And the most important thing. springs! If they are still not lost, install them before tightening the eccentric. Now your bike will once again delight you with quiet operation and good handling.
Bicycle hub repair
The hub is the part of the wheel located in its geometric center on the axis of rotation. It is attached to the bike frame and rotates the wheel relative to the frame. There are two of them on the bike, since there are two wheels. Sometimes they talk about the third, middle, meaning the carriage of rotation of the connecting rods. It is better to entrust the repair of the middle hub of a bicycle to professionals.
The rear hub has a more complex design than the front one, since it provides not only free rotation of the rear wheel, but also the transmission of braking and torque from the chain drive. Serving as an attachment point for the spokes that hold the wheel rims, they also act as hubs. Bicycle rear hub repair is the most responsible.
Types of rear hubs for bicycles
This bicycle part has several types of designs:
- 1 without brake mechanism, with free wheeling;
- 2 with rigid kinematic connection, no free wheel;
- 3 with built-in foot brake and free play.
The brake unit (foot brake) has an additional rod that is fixed to the frame. Its fundamental difference is that inside there is a brake drum and pads, which come into contact when the star rotates in the opposite direction for a certain part of the wheel revolution. A variety of brake hubs are worm gears, which are often installed on single-speed bicycles. Such braking mechanisms are durable and unpretentious, maintenance and repair of the worm bushing can be done independently.
A bicycle with a foot brake usually does not require other types of braking. It has become widespread in our country. It is a reliable road bike for the general public. This type of brake works well for a child’s bike.
For a high-speed road bike, a high-speed non-brake hub is best suited. Compared to brakes, it is more reliable and lightweight, which is essential for sports cars. Free play allows you to fix the pedals (connecting rods) when the wheel rotates.
These knots are well suited for speed bikes or mountain bikes, and are also installed on fix bikes. Rear hubs with a hidden gear shifting system, where shifting is performed by a planetary gearbox, are widespread among professionals.
Bushing Preventive Maintenance
Maintenance of the rear and front bicycle hubs includes the following operations:
Finding these faults means the bike’s rear hub needs repair.
- 1 periodic check of the tightness of the bearings (axial play can occur due to lapping of ball bearings or as a result of wear)
- 2 periodic flushing and lubrication of bearings;
- 3 adjusting the position of the brake pads.
- 4 Maintenance of the front hub of a bicycle is a little easier, as it comes down to maintenance of the bearing block. In this case, repairing a bicycle hub does not cause any particular difficulties.
You should pay attention to the following signs of wear of these important components:
- 1 there is axial play, wheel wobble. displacement from the plane of rotation;
- 2 short roll;
- 3 crunch of bearings during wheel rotation, extraneous noise, heating of the bushing.
Do not remove the spokes from the wheels. For the high-speed non-brake hub, the disassembly procedure is as follows:
- 1 remove the cassette from the axle using a puller;
- 2 remove the circlip;
- 3 remove the bearings and washers (bearings can be loose or assembled);
- 4 the damage on the bearing elements is assessed;
- 5 the axle is pulled out entirely;
- 6 body from the inside, all parts are cleaned of old grease and dirt;
- 7 in reverse order, the parts are lubricated and assembled into the housing;
- 8, lock nuts are installed and counter-secured with fastening nuts; it is important not to overtighten the sleeve. bearings should rotate without play, but freely.
Repair of the front wheel hub of a bicycle is carried out in the same way, taking into account specific design features.
Not everyone can carry out maintenance and repair of the rear wheel hub on their own. If you doubt your locksmith skills, you should seek help from those who do it professionally. In our bicycle workshop you are always welcome.