Regular chain lubrication
First you need to clarify where the oil should be in the chain. The rubbing and pivoting part of the chain link is in the articulation. This is the so-called. pin (axis), on this axis there is a roller, and along the edges there are two sidewalls of the links. All these parts rub against each other intensively and stretch along the teeth of the stars. But outside this articulation zone, oil is undesirable, because it attracts dirt well.
An essential feature of a bicycle multi-speed chain is that the inner diameter of the roller is noticeably larger than the pin (axle). That is, the roller on the axle seems to dangle. precisely, not on the axis, but on the projections of the inner cheeks. These protrusions do not touch inside, a gap remains. And between the roller and the side walls, there is also a gap sufficient for easy penetration of dirt.
The arrow indicates the inner space near the spin. a container for dirt
This design is associated with the need for an easy transition of the roller from star to star and with the need for the elasticity of the chain to skew.
Chain wax in a bottle. make it yourself
On classic chains, the roller is also larger than the pin, but an additional sleeve bearing, such as a sleeve, is placed between the roller and the pin.
Classic chain (diagram from Wikipedia). Number 4 denotes a hub, instead of which there is an empty space on the bicycle multi-speed chain
Probably this design should be on single-speed bicycles. In any case, on bicycles of the previous era, there were no particular questions about chain maintenance. As well as the questions of replacing the chain, as far as I remember.
It turns out that the invention of a gear system for a bicycle in the form of a large number of stars led to some mockery of the chain drive. In the article Restoring (grooving) a bicycle cassette, mockery of the stars, whose ends are sawn off, is considered. Now it turns out that the plain bearings on the pins have been thrown out of the chain, and instead of them the voids are containers for dirt.
In general, the ability to change gears is made at the expense of a derisive attitude towards the chain drive resource.
A little about the chain resource, since it also depends on the lubricant. The chain stretches during operation. Most likely, the fastening of the inner plates on the axle is broken. The stretching of the chain occurs for two reasons. The first, and there is nothing to be done about it, is just stretching, since the chain transfers the force. The hole in the inner cheeks becomes oval, and a groove may appear on the pins (depending on the ratio of the hardness of the pin and cheek materials). The second reason is just the abrasion of the jaw-pin-roller contacts with dirt and / or lack of lubrication. This is most noticeable when used in poor conditions. I once heard about the 80 km mud race around the lake, which for all participants led to the need to replace the chain.
So, there is a space between the roller and the pin, which is filled with oil when the chain is lubricated. When the chain is running, the roller, since it dangles on the axle, churns the oil and squeezes it out through the slots between the roller and the sides of the links. The oil settles on the teeth of the stars, grabs dirt and dust, and then, in the form of a thick abrasive substance, is pushed by the teeth through the same slots into the container between the pin and the roller. Therefore, the chain is recommended to be washed seriously. So that all this muck rinsed out through the cracks. It is believed that if the chain is removed, shoved into a plastic bottle, filled with gasoline and shaken well, then the dirt will rinse out. I honestly do not really believe.
Further, you can argue a lot, but I think you need to dwell on the fact that there is a container between the roller and the pin, in which it is always desirable to have fresh oil. When the roller hits the teeth, the oil is squeezed out along with the dirt and sticks to the chain. Therefore, if the chain is kept clean, then the hidden cavities will be rinsed out rather than contaminated.
Gradually came to such maintenance of the chain. I keep the chain clean from the outside. I just wipe it with a cloth when the chain gets dirty. I tried to remove and wash with a special machine, but laziness won I lubricate the chain with popin’s, that is, one drop for each roller. After I have dripped through the whole chain, I rotate the pedals a few times (the rollers become dirty). Then I again wipe the chain with a rag until it remains more or less clean when twisted. There is nothing original in this, this is one of the methods of lubrication. At the same time, the oil penetrates where it should be and is removed from there, where it will do nothing except to collect dirt. By the way, as already mentioned, apparently there are unique oils that do not collect dirt, but on the contrary put it somewhere. But I did not come across, although I did not set the task of searching. There are four bicycles in service, they take 1-2 bottles of lubricant per season. There were also different viscosities and even different colors, for example, emerald green. I did not notice a fundamental difference.
After riding or just as it gets dirty, I wipe the chain. First, after lubrication, a lot of dirt is squeezed out, then less and less. And then, if the weather is dry, the chain stays clean. For me, this is a criterion that the oil in the containers around the pins has run out and the lubrication needs to be repeated. Some people use other criteria for the frequency of maintenance: chain sounds (whistle or creak. I don’t know, I have never heard it), mileage, etc. It is not very easy to wipe down the chain as the dirt-oil mixture is quite sticky. It would be more correct to say that the chain has to be scrubbed. You can spray it with a spray or something smelly before wiping, but this does not work for me, because the bicycles are stored in the apartment.
I haven’t written anything new yet, I just have to emphasize one of the possible approaches to chain maintenance. By the way, you don’t have to service at all, I also have such experience, but from some point I began to really like the clean chain and stars.
Regular (hard) paraffin
I must say that the boiling of the chain in paraffin is described in the network quite well. This refers to hard paraffin instead of oil. To do this, you need to remove the chain and immerse it in paraffin melted in a water bath. Stir slightly until no more air bubbles are escaping from the near-pen containers. Then remove the chain, allow the paraffin to harden and put the chain on the bike. Dirt does not stick to such a chain, since there is nothing to stick to. When driving, a characteristic chirp, since there is no oil. The mileage of such a chain with paraffin, but without oil and dirt, turns out to be no less than with oil and dirt. In the network, it is like a whole movement, of course I will not belittle its significance. I will only say that this method does not suit me for two reasons:
Bicycle chain and liquid paraffin
The bike chain is the outdoor part of the drivetrain. Therefore, on the one hand, the bicycle chain must be kept lubricated, and on the other hand, dirt adheres to the oil, turning it into an abrasive. The best solution is to place the chain in a dirt-proof container. I saw such a decision on Kickstarter, but it was not possible to raise funds to start production. Therefore, a compromise has to be found, which is what the manufacturers of chain lubricants write about. That is, an oil is created that lubricates where it is needed, and where it is not necessary does not attract dirt. I can’t say that I’ve tried a lot of lubricants, but those that I came across still pretty dirty the chain. In a note, I want to share a solution of two liquids. Oil lubricates and paraffin film protects against dirt.
It so happened that last winter I began to actively use liquid paraffin to prepare alpine skis. details here: Ski preparation, know-how. Liquid paraffin is sold under the name liquid paraffin lighter in supermarkets, in the barbecue departments. The price is about 160 rubles per liter bottle (today it is 2.5 dollars per liter). Paraffin, although liquid, dries out. In general, in alpine skiing, oddly enough, we began to use it from the very beginning precisely for repelling oil-based mud. Therefore, from the beginning of the cycling season, I began to try how it can be used to make the chain less dirty.
Liquid paraffins are products of oil refining (as well as hard paraffins). This is an odorless liquid, in which, by the way, solid paraffin does not dissolve (if without dancing with tambourines). Sometimes, however, a solvent is added. Firing up the Forester smells noticeably of turpentine. It is possible that hard paraffins are added there.
On the left is the usual ignition, odorless. Right. Forester, smells of turpentine, although it is written 100% paraffin.
But this is rather an exception, since winter I came across three more others with the inscription a mixture of liquid paraffins, and all were odorless, or rather smelled like a candle, that is, just paraffin and slightly
Chain treatment with two fluids
For now, such a procedure has been developed.
Two fluids for sequential circuit treatment. On the left is a special bike chain oil, on the right is liquid paraffin.
After the usual lubrication of the chain with oil, more precisely after the oil squeezed out of the pins with a cloth has been removed, the chain is spilled with liquid paraffin. That is, two different liquids are used, oil and paraffin. I twist the chain and spill paraffin from the top of the bottle with a narrow spout until the lower roller on the rear derailleur becomes noticeably wet. At the same time, nothing drips onto the floor, the paraffin is evenly distributed along the chain and teeth of the cassette and system. If it begins to drip, it means that you have spilled too much on the chain, but this does not affect anything. That’s all, you don’t need to wipe the chain.
When the chain becomes dirty after riding, it is wiped with a cloth as usual and then again spilled with paraffin (sometimes every other time). That is, this waxing in no way replaces the conventional chain lubrication with oil. Then what’s the difference? The difference is that the chain gets noticeably less dirty and is much easier to wipe with a cloth, since the oil squeezed out of the near-penny knot does not stick so much to the paraffin chain.
This method in no way refers to holivars on the network for what is better: expensive special oil, boiling the chain in paraffin without oil, boiling the chain in paraffin with the addition of oil, lubricating the chain with a special oil with an admixture of paraffins, etc.
Oil and paraffin just complement each other.
How to apply paraffin wax to your bike chain?
We have two brands of paraffin wax on sale. SMOOVE and SQUIRT The Smoove brand has one lubricant for all weather and all seasons. The Squirt Brand has three lubrication options: Squirt Long Lasting Dry Lube. universal chain lubricant. Squirt Low-Temp Chain Lube. low temperature grease, used in cold weather. Squirt Chain Lube E-Bike. high performance lubricant as standard, but more powerful for e-bikes.
Proper preparation of the chain will significantly improve the lubrication performance, it will last longer and will not accumulate dust and dirt.
Degrease The old chain must be cleaned of old grease and adhering dirt. It is important to completely remove the old lubricating film. A new chain from the box should also be degreased. Smoove has its own degreasing liquid. Smoove Prep Chain Cleaner
After degreasing, rinse the chain in soapy water. You can use auto chemistry, Squirt Bio-Bike Cleaner will do the best for this task.
Dry Let the chains dry completely. Heating devices can be used to speed up the process.
Mountain bike lubricant. Lubricate the chain liberally without wiping off excess. Let the grease dry completely. Drying time is at least two hours. For a road bike. only lubricate the inner chain rollers by rotating the crank arms in the opposite direction. Leave it on for a couple of minutes to allow the lubricant to penetrate deep into the chain. Then remove excess grease from the outer links and also allow to dry for at least two hours.
Further maintenance of the chain Once you have degreased the chain and applied paraffin wax, no longer use cleaners and degreasers. Use only Squirt Bio-Bike Cleaner (if you have concentrate, use 1 part water to 1/4 cleaner solution) or Smoove Prep Chain Cleaner.
When is it time to lubricate again? Average lubrication intervals are 300 km for road bikes and 200 km for mountain bikes. Mileage may vary depending on climate, weather conditions, road conditions, etc.
It is recommended to lubricate the chain after every long ride, in which case the chain will last longer and there will be less wear on the rear cassette and chainrings.
Meet the new, updated paraffin lubricant for the bicycle chain “Mamkina Care”. Now even more! The volume of one bottle is 125 ml!
Super alternative to expensive paraffinic lubricants. Buying our grease. you are guaranteed to receive a quality, proven product. than 700 people all over Belarus have already tried the lubricant and were satisfied! Best value for money.
WHY IT IS WORTH USING PARAFFIN LUBRICANT:
INCREASE OF THE CHAIN RESOURCE. The hardened paraffin reliably protects the chain from abrasive particles falling on the rubbing surfaces, this increases the chain resource, which is especially noticeable in forest / mud conditions, where the chains stretch to critical values very quickly.
CLEAN TRANSMISSION. The idea, no doubt, is also good because, unlike oil lubricants, paraffin does not cling to dust and sand, that is, the chain remains dry and clean all the time of operation. INCREASED LUBRICATION INTERVAL. If the interval for lubricating the chain with a regular oil Dry lubricant is approximately 100 kilometers, our paraffin lubricant runs from 150 km in good weather conditions, more in total on the highway. Some Catalans report a 200-250km interval between lubrication. It is important. it works if all lubrication technologies are followed.
MINIMUM FRICTION. Our grease will allow you to feel the ease of screwing achieved by the excellent performance of the grease with your transmission.
SAVING. One bottle of lubricant, provided it is used and applied correctly, can be enough for several active cycling seasons.
APPLICATION: Apply grease to a clean, grease-free and dry transmission. For cleaning, we recommend classic degreasers. INNER CHAIN LUBRICATION. For maximum efficiency and economy of use, apply grease to each pin on 2 sides. It takes a while, but ultimately gives excellent circuit results. Let the grease soak in and dry for at least 3-4 hours. In this case, the water base should dry out, and the main reagent. paraffin compounds. should be left in the chain links to work. For perfect results. IT IS RECOMMENDED TO LUBRICATE AT NIGHT. Unlike petroleum-based lubricants, this is a different principle of operation and application, it does not require removing the lubricant from the outside of the chain. If you apply too much grease, it can accumulate near the derailleur rollers and cassette teeth. you can remove it from there in any convenient way.
WHERE CAN ONE BUY? You can email me directly. I ship every day after 17:00
Geographically Lida. sending by post / euromail.
Repair and adjustment. Which chain lubrication is best for dry weather
Reading the well-known thread with throwing on each other, I felt a little sad. Obviously, srachis, conflicts, dramas, open letters and other topics with social indignation cause much more interest among ordinary people, but 26 has always been famous for much higher matters. And in general. this is not a branch of the site. Let them say, right? Need hardcore, cool research topics and just good pstos! Recently I came across a 2013 study on testing 30 chain lubricants, and I would like to share them here. I invite those who are interested under the cut.
The article itself can be found here (English requirered), it was written by C aley Fretz, a well-known journalist for the VeloNews website. Below is a small retelling of it and the author’s thoughts.
In principle, it is obvious to everyone that the chain is a knot with the maximum number of rubbing joints on the entire bike and it is important to keep it clean and properly lubricated. Although any reader may ask the question Why bother so much? and will be partly right. I rubbed the chain, lubricated it and rolled it, nothing complicated. But, in light of Misha’s recent article How many grams does good pedaling save? my attention was attracted by the indicators of how many watts are lost on the movement of the chain. And if it was possible to pester Misha for the lack of exact numbers, then here everything is on the shelves, since the losses on the circuit have nevertheless learned to measure on bench testing. Test Method: All circuits were new; Chains from Campagnolo, SRAM, and Shimano have been used and the final figures are based on the average of each chain; The new chain was purified in alcohol using an ultrasonic bath; Each lubricant was applied by immersing the chain in a lubricated bath heated to 38 ° Celsius; The accuracy of the measuring instruments is ± 0.02 watts, losses on ceramic bearings are taken into account and are not reflected in the final results; To simulate contamination during rotation, the chain was sprinkled with dirt and dust for 30 seconds, after which it was sprayed with water 30 times with a spray gun and again sprinkled with dirt and dust for 30 seconds. After these procedures, the chains were allowed to rotate for another 60 minutes.
How much time was spent on all this, it’s just scary to think about, given that there were 30 types of lubricants and 3 types of chains.
The main problem with chain lubrication is that it gets smeared. Over time, dirt sticks to the lubricant, which not only worsens the rotation of the chain, but also decently affects its life. The dirt and sand bound by the lubricant turns into an abrasive that kills the chain and stars. Therefore, we need a lubricant to which any dirt will not stick, but at the same time it will lubricate the rubbing parts well. Well, everyone understands that, right? Obviously, the purpose of the article was to choose which of the popular lubricants is the best, and the ending resulted in the following table. These are pure results, i.e. the chain was not contaminated in any way, but simply allowed it to rotate for 5 minutes. The data was taken at the end of the five-minute segment:
The height of the circle in the table indicates the amount of active agent to be lubricated. Explanations for the table: The topmost line is the consistency of the grease. I think everyone will understand everything, except for the Sukhaya point. These lubricants are applied to the chain, after which the liquid solvent from the lubricant evaporates. An obvious plus of such a lubricant is that there is nothing to stick to dirt, because the chain is dry. Ceramic-based lubricants are good at reducing friction, but ceramic dust itself is expensive and it is expensive to increase its amount in the final product. Therefore, the ceramic base sounds beautiful and effective, but the effectiveness of such lubricants is not very high due to the low content of the active substance. Teflon (or the more common name fluoroplastic in our country) is good for everyone. It is much easier to obtain than components for ceramic grease, therefore, the amount in the grease can be increased while maintaining a competitive price. It glides charmingly, it is worth remembering the bushings for the amorts, which are carved by craftsmen. Paraffin is a separate topic of conversation, as it has good lubricating properties and costs a penny. Its problem is that paraffin is afraid of frost and is washed off quite well with water. The topic of chain waxing has long been known. The process is laborious, but he found his adepts.
So, from the table above, we see that greases with high m Teflon do their job best. The power loss on the circuit is from 8 to 5 watts. As Misha says: Having added or saved 4 watts, you can imagine that you are riding with the same power on a bike that has thrown off 1kg of excess iron without losing its strength. That is, you can get for free almost minus one kilo from the bike in equivalent power. Xs at the request of whose left heel in this test the guys were not too lazy and, in addition to paraffin-based lubricants, they used paraffin. The result is impressive to say the least. The best Teflon greases are inferior to paraffin in lubricating properties. And that’s not all, after the chain was smeared and wetted, the guys again measured the power:
As a result of the test, in addition to dry numbers, it became clear that after an hour of operation of the contaminated circuit, the power on paraffin not only did not fall, but also increased! It sounds strange, but it’s true. It turns out that paraffin takes time to rub in and, plus, it does not accumulate dirt, which has a positive effect on reducing losses. A similar result was shown by Park Tool’s liquid Teflon grease. It should be noted that Sprays and their main representative in the form of WD.40 are practically not suitable for chain lubrication.
In the tests above, there is no macof paraffin lubricant, but in a more recent paid study of lubricants there was Squirt and it almost did not yield to the most hardcore paraffin lubrication through the immersion of the chain in it.
In principle, it would be possible to stop at this place, but such results made me think again about paraffin. Several years ago, on the notorious forum and the most visited bike site in the CIS ©, I came across the topic of replacing the chain lubrication with paraffin. Since then, more than 700 pages have already appeared on this topic, apparently because when paraffin is boiled, higher fatty acids and alcohols are released, which adepts breathe. Although in such threads it is advised not to boil the paraffin, but simply to melt it in a water bath, we know where the dog is buried. In short, the essence of the method is to pick up paraffin candles and stick them into yourself or any other paraffin, melt it and boil the chain in it. Stir the chain in hot paraffin until air bubbles escape from the chain pins. After such cooking, the chain is taken out, wiped dry and left to cool, and then hung on the bike. Silence and a clean chain come to the owner of such a chain, even if you take it with your hands. Which is logical, because dirt does not stick to paraffin and it adheres to the chain very well. Everything is fine, but the procedure must be repeated every 100-150 km or after rain. And in winter, such a chain can just get stuck! The idea is simple, but idiotic, because any organic chemist will tell you that paraffin dissolves well with any polar solvents such as gasoline, ethyl or acetone, which is why after rain the chain must be paraffinated, because water is also a polar solvent. It was only necessary to choose a solvent with which it would be possible to make a lubricant and simply bury the chain with it. After the procedure, the solvent should evaporate quickly enough, and you will get a profit without cooking and subsequent writing 700 pages with Комментарии и мнения владельцев.
In two years we came to such an idea, but sensibly judging that some manufacturer could not have come to such an idea in order to cut down the dough on this, I decided to delve a little deeper into the topic and instead of having fun with candles, look for tests of lubricants for a chain with a high m paraffin. Having rummaged through the Internet, I came across another article. where the guys got so confused that they calculated the total cost of using a transmission with such lubricants for
25 thousand kilometers (a terrible figure). The guys managed to test 3 types of lubricants:
Squirt (I can already see the 9th grade students laughing). According to the manufacturer, it is a dry, long-lived lubricant suitable for both normal riding and off-roading. It does not seem to contain aggressive solvents that will gobble up the coating from your chain (most likely alcohol is the solvent). The viscosity is the same as that of a conventional motor oil 5 w 40. It is enough for 300 km according to the guys’ tests.
Smoove is ultra-long, i.e. long-lived grease. According to the manufacturer’s information, one lubricant is enough for 1000-1450 km. And it actually lives for a very long time, the guys had enough of such a lubricant for 1000 km. Viscosity somewhere around 120.
Wend. comes with two cylinders. WAX OFF is a chain cleaner, guys didn’t use it. WAX ON is the lubricant itself. It is enough for 300 km, but after drying, a lot of paraffin falls off to the floor, which says that the manufacturer has gone too far with the selection of a solvent and it evaporates too quickly, a lot of paraffin simply does not have time to enter the pins. The method of application is similar to smearing the underarms against sweat, so be careful not to get confused when leaving for work in the morning. But who knows, suddenly, thanks to paraffin, you can walk faster.?
During the period of use, it turned out that the paraffin falls off SUDDENLY, but after a certain run. This is its main disadvantage. Every ± 300-600 km you will have to lubricate the chain (depending on the brand of lubricant), if you do not want to suddenly find yourself in an uncomfortable situation without lubrication. I do not think this figure is terrible, more than 300 km per day are driven only by tourists and lovers of highways, and couch soldiers travel so much in a year. Lubricating the chain at home or, if it bakes that way, taking a tube with you into your backpack is not a problem.
Do you think that there is no need to bother so much for the sake of extra watts? Then how about the fact that the chain lives at least half its normal life? Overall transmission wear is noticeably reduced. Here is the sign:
The final result is highlighted in green and takes into account the cost of lubrication, chain and cassette. The coolest was Smoove. for 25k km, only two tubes of lubricant were spent, and its price is the same as the price of a conventional oil-based chain lubricant. I don’t know how such lubrication will behave during aggressive skiing, but as for me, it’s interesting food for thought. What do you think?
Smoove Universal Chain Lube 20 ml
Description Smoove Universal Chain Lube 20 ml
Smoove chain lubricant. incredibly durable and the most versatile grease on the bicycle market today. Versatility. works equally well in all weather conditions. dry dusty trails, mud baths in cyclocross mode, just classic autumn rain on the highway or ideal spring weather at the beginning of the cycling season.
Drivetrain cleanliness. The lubricant is a liquid-paraffin emulsion, after application the liquid dries up and solid lubricating paraffins remain on the chain that do not attract dust and dirt.
Very long service life. After lubrication, the chain will start to make noise after many hundreds of kilometers. The most durable grease in existence.
As a highlight for nature lovers like most cyclists, this lubricant is 100% biodegradable and solvent free.
One bottle of 20 ml lubricant, provided that it is used and applied correctly, can be enough for an active cycling season.
SMOOVE CHAIN LUBE significantly reduces chain wear and extends chain life. As a result, the good condition of the chain affects the long life of other components. cassettes, crank sprockets and derailleur rollers.
A unique grease developed in South Africa, unlike most of its brethren. Why South Africa? This country with the most developed cycling infrastructure, especially in the field of mountain biking (mountain biking) and is actually a mecca of professional cycling in the southern hemisphere. World-class manufacturers, athletes and brands regularly compete and test their products in races in South Africa, including one of the world’s most famous cycling marathons. Cape Epic. It was on the basis of many years of experience in a similar race that this grease was developed.
Apply Smoove to a CLEAN and DRY chain only. For cleaning, we recommend classic degreasers or Smoove Prep.
INNER CHAIN LUBRICATION. For maximum efficiency and economy of use, apply grease to each pin on 2 sides. It takes a while, but ultimately gives excellent circuit performance.
OUTER CHAIN LUBRICATION. To prevent rust or minimize rust marks when riding in rain, mud or snow, the manufacturer recommends applying lubricant to all chain elements, including all external links, including the sides. Those. formally, each element of your chain must be covered with a layer of paraffin after the water base has dried.
Let the grease soak in and dry for at least one hour. In this case, the water base should dry and leave the main reagent to work in the chain links. paraffinic compounds.
Ideal lubrication results are achieved by lubricating the chain overnight.
DO NOT wipe the chain after applying the lubricant. Unlike petroleum-based lubricants, there is a different principle of operation and application, it does not require removing the lubricant from the outer part of the chain.
If you apply too much grease, it can accumulate around the derailleur rollers and cassette teeth. you can remove them from there in any convenient way.
Please note that after driving in the rain for more than 150-200 km, the lubricant continues to work inside, but the outer links may already lose the paraffin film. After riding in the specified conditions, we recommend that you dry and blow out your chain to avoid rust.
In 2017, SMOOVE grease began to enter the global bicycle market and has won great respect from professional bike mechanics and athletes in the USA, Brazil, Europe Australia, etc.
How To Paraffin Wax Your Bicycle Chain The Easy Way !
Shelf life of the grease. 3 years from the moment the bottle was opened
Is it necessary: why lubricate a bicycle chain
At least, so that it does not creak or, in an intermediate version, does not chirp. As a maximum, a drop of oil in the friction unit (link) increases its wear resistance. As a result, the chain runs longer. In addition, you are unlikely to be able to accurately adjust the rear derailleur on a dry drive.
Digging deeper, the cycle life is determined not only by the lubricating qualities of a petrochemical product, but also by its ability to repel sand and dirt from the metal. Therefore, it is completely indifferent to what you will lubricate the bicycle chain at home or at a service station.
For your information. The chain has an allowable degree of elongation at which it causes minimal damage to the stars. To determine the critical stretch, buy a Caliber or use a caliper (adjust it to 119 mm and measure the inner dimension: if it is more than 120.6 mm, change it). The cassette wears out faster than chainrings and can withstand no more than 2-3 timely chain changes.
For wet weather conditions
It is best to lubricate the bike chain with heavy grease before it rains. It is delivered in a liquid state to the gap between the pin and the roller and thickens after a while. Crafting recipe:
- Find vehicle compound 58 for propeller shafts or marine consistency for hubs.
- Mix with gasoline Galosha (alternative. fuel for lighters) in a 1: 1 ratio.
- Pour the mixture into a vial of nasal drops or fill into a syringe.
For dry highway
An alternative can be made to all kinds of factory DRY formulations. Based on their service life, it makes sense to look for substitutes for lubricant products based on graphite and wax.
Alternative to liquid preparations
- Machine gear oil. Simple and cheap analogue. On dry it is enough for 60-70 km, in the rain it is quickly washed out. Dust clings and chains are constantly dirty.
- Three-component composition (60% grease, 30% motor oil, 10% graphite powder). An old recipe for a mixture for cooking a bicycle chain.
- Three-component mixture (85% lithol, 5% soap, 10% graphite powder). Another old-fashioned recipe for cooking composition.
For your information. Graphite powder is obtained from brushes of an electric motor using sandpaper.
How and how to lubricate a chain on a bicycle with a multi-speed transmission
Graphite Bike Lubricant
- 50% Gasoline Galosh.
- 50% graphite auto-lubrication.
It is more convenient to mix directly in a 20 ml syringe. According to the experience of enthusiastic specialists, this amount is enough for about 4 treatments.
For dry weather
A bottle labeled DRY will do, but not any. If resource is a priority, choose Teflon, silicone or graphite bike lubricants. Their common disadvantage is that they dirty everything around. For those who love cleanliness, it is best to lubricate their bike chain with wax. But she also has a major drawback. she has unimportant lubricating characteristics.
Advice. Do not buy drugs in aerosol cans. It is consumed quickly, about 50% of the volume flies past the chain.