How to make pads on a bike

Replacement steps

If you do not know how to change pads on a bicycle with disc brakes, then this article will be very useful and informative. There is nothing complicated in this matter, the main thing is to strictly follow our recommendations and instructions. Replacing pads on a bicycle with disc brakes consists of the following steps:

  • It is better not to bypass the dismantling of the caliper. Since not all bikes can be replaced with a caliper installed.
  • Removing the circlip that is found on Hope and Av
    make, pads, bike
  • Bicycle disc pads selected for replacement can be organic or semi-metallic. The first models provide good grip, do not get so hot, but require good operating conditions. The second option is loud, very hot, but more tenacious.
  • The caliper needs cleaning. For this, a piece of cloth or a cotton sponge soaked in a liquid that is intended to clean the brake system is suitable. You need to rub the inner side of the caliper.
  • Not only the pads need to be replaced, but also the spring. After all, the pads may not be identical and the spring will not be fully involved. This will lead to shrinkage of the pads and failure of the rotor.
  • During the installation of new elements, it is necessary to ensure that they slide along the rotor. Also, the spring must not be allowed to break from its place.
  • The assembly process of the brake system is carried out in the reverse order. Then you need to press the lever several times and check the correct position of the pads and good pressing of the rotor.

MAKING A BMX HANDLEBAR PAD

V-Brake Service

The linkage system can be in one of two states: working or maintained. We are interested in the second, when the levers are disengaged, that is, one of them is not connected with the cable. It is in this position that it is convenient to change the pads. Actually, the change process itself is simple, if you keep a few important points in focus:

  • Unscrewing the bolt securing the old pads to the lever, remember the sequence of the washers. It should be similar to the one shown in the photo. The main emphasis in the scheme is made so that the block can be rotated in all directions. This is exactly what spherical washers can do together with 3 and 6 mm concave washers.
  • When setting up a new friction lining, try to ensure that it follows the circumference of the rim and does not touch the tire. When viewed from above, the front of the garment should be closer to the rim than the back. This will give the brakes a smooth deceleration pattern, which means that the ride comfort will be increased.

Little life hack. When touching the front of the shoe, the rear must be within 1mm from the rim. For the convenience of adjusting this gap, it is convenient to use automotive dipsticks to adjust the valves or ordinary A4 paper, rolling it into a couple of layers.

After installing new friction plates, you need to loosen the brake cable, since the old pads were probably thinner, which means they were located closer to the rim.

Principle of operation

Disc brakes are traditionally mounted on the left side of the bike. Some bikes have two disc brakes, one on each side of the front wheel, but the extra weight may be undesirable in this case. One-sided mounting results in an unbalanced load on the plug, which can lead to handling and safety problems. The load on the fork is heavy because the braking torque is taken at a relatively short distance from the hub. As noted, the front caliper disc brake in the normal position behind the left fork blade exerts a strong force to push the hub axle out of the dropout. Alternating upward force from the weight and downward force from the brake can weaken the quick release of the front hub.

The front suspension fork and disc brake work well because the fork needs to have large diameter sliders (the bottom of each fork blade) and the left slider can easily transfer the load from the disc brake. However, a lateral front hub (one where the axle is mounted in holes rather than slots) is still needed to avoid the possibility of losing the front wheel.

The process of replacing brake pads on bicycle disc brakes

Driving without a brake is dangerous and pointless. Disc brakes are often installed on bicycles, which show their best side. Many cyclists prefer this kind of braking system. And even the fact that periodically it is necessary to change disc pads for a bicycle does not scare the owners of bicycle bikes.

Various factors may indicate the need to perform such work:

  • loud screeching sound;
  • reduced braking efficiency;
  • drop in braking force;
  • the grinding sound that comes from pressing the brake lever.
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Since the braking system is directly responsible for our safety, the replacement of brake pads on a bicycle must be timely and carried out in accordance with all the rules. Otherwise, it is even difficult to imagine the consequences of riding such a bike. In addition, there is a high probability of failure of the brake disc, the replacement of which will require significant financial investments.

Bicycle brakes

It is the bicycle brakes that are responsible for regulating the driving speed of a two-wheeled vehicle and, in particular, for slowing down the speed of movement, as well as stopping. They can be of several types:

  • rim;
  • pedal (or drum);
  • disk;
  • steep;
  • and roller.

The most common ones used in most modern bike models are disc brakes and rim brakes.

Squeaking is a reason to change the pads?

It is worth equalizing the actual wear only if the braking system does not show signs of malfunctioning. What are these symptoms? This is primarily the absence of squeaks and changes in the braking force. However, it is impossible to focus only on the creak. this sign is deceptive.

Vibration is the main cause of squeaking. The latter can arise from intermittent adhesion of the pad to the disc / rim or its loose fit. With these facts in mind, there are several operational reasons for whistling bicycle brakes:

  • Poor quality friction material. Poor quality pads leave dust when washed. It, settling on the working surface of the pads and disc, contributes to the formation of a hard layer that slides with a squeak. With the purchase of decent pads, it is better not to tighten, but as a temporary solution, you can consider cleaning the contacting surfaces with low-grain sandpaper (zero).
  • Misaligned pads. often occurs on hydraulic disc brakes from clogging of the caliper: the pistons that move the brake linings can wedge. In these cases, the bulkhead of the machine helps out with the concomitant replacement of the cuffs.
  • Low system rigidity. Surely many have met a situation when the front brake works clearly and quietly, and the rear one squeaks and annoys with insecure behavior. As a rule, this is typical for budget lines that are not free from structural mistakes. Replacing the pads here does not always give a result. a complete replacement of the system with alternative components of a higher class is required.

It is worth noting that whistling when braking in wet weather is inherent in even decent braking systems. Of course, advanced components have a lower sound amplitude, but this should not be the only reason to switch to them, especially when the operation of the brake system dry does not cause any complaints.

Disc brake care

Replacement of pads on disc brakes begins with removing the wheel. There is no other way to remove the friction plates. Further, depending on the system, uncoupling or dismantling of the bolt. After that, the pads can be safely removed from the caliper.

Before installing new parts, you should reset the machine settings. Namely, push the pistons in with a hexagon or a screwdriver in disk hydraulics, or unscrew the bolt and release the cable on the mechanically driven calipers. The pads are mounted assembled with a spacer plate and nothing else. This element is important because it returns the pads to their original position after braking, preventing them from sticking to the disc and shuffling along it at idle speed. Finally, the cotter pin or bolt is returned to its place, and the zeroed caliper must be set up to work with already new pads. For this:

  • On hydraulics, center the clipper on the disc. Please note that the pads must be at the same distance from the ends of the caliper. If this condition is not met, then the protrusion of the pistons can be trimmed by small bends in the disc.
  • On the mechanics, bring the fixed block as close as possible, and adjust the motion of the fixed block for reasons of comfort and convenience.

Varieties of rim brakes

Rim brakes are divided into several types:

  • tick-borne;
  • cantilevers;
  • V-brake (vector mechanical);
  • hydraulically driven.

Caliper brakes. previously popular modifications, are now rare on the market. They are a classic model of rim brakes with attachment to the fork or stays of the bicycle frame. Design features and operating principle:

  • Consist of a handle, a drive cable, two movable bows and brake pads.
  • The handle is attached to the handlebars of the bicycle, a cable is pulled from it and fixed on the clamping side of the arches. The body itself is attached strictly above the wheel, pads are screwed to the lower mounts of the arcs.
  • Through the cable, the force is directly transmitted to the clamping part of the arcs, due to which they are compressed, and the pads are in contact with the rim.
  • Responsible for unclamping is an elastic metal insert or spring built between the levers.

The levers have a single axis of rotation and move towards each other like pliers pincers. Hence the name. tick-borne. Advantages. ease of installation, simple setup. Cons. weak braking force, low modulation, high abrasion of the pads, require frequent debugging. Fits on road racing bikes and optionally as a front rim brake on road models.

Cantilevers belong to the second type of disappearing brakes. The principle of their work is to extend the levers under the action of a taut leash. The principle of operation of the cantilever brake:

  • Through the main cable, the force is transmitted to the jumper.
  • The cable pulls the jumper up, the leash attached to it is pulled.
  • The leash connects both levers, which are rigidly attached to the frame.
  • Due to the convergence of the levers, the pads approach the rim.
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The cantilevers are dirt resistant, will not bump the tire and are easy to install. Significant disadvantages include:

  • decrease in braking force as the leash is pulled;
  • you need to create a high effort to stop the bike completely;
  • difficulty of adjustment.

In justification of the latter, it should be noted that the position of the pads can be adjusted within wide limits.

V-brake is a common type of rim brake on high-speed bicycles. Compared to cantilevers, it has a higher precision and longer shoe longevity. They are also easy to remove and repair yourself.

The vectors are partially similar in design to cantilevers: the front brake levers are bolted to the fork, the rear brake levers are attached to the upper stays. The legs are connected to each other by a pulling cable. The drive cable is brought to one side, but due to the straight shape of the tie, the forces are equally transmitted to both levers.

Hydraulic bicycle rim brakes are a more advanced mechanical model. The drive system consists of a control cylinder, a hydraulic line and power cylinders. The forces from the handle are transmitted to the master cylinder, which, through the oil, acts on the power cylinders. Those, in turn, move the pads towards each other.

Advantages. high compression force and efficiency, excellent modulation. Disadvantages. deterioration of work with a blockage of the hydraulic line, complex repairs. Used a similar type of brakes for freeride and trial.

Rim-type brakes have low brake pad travel, which means they wear less during operation. A significant disadvantage of this approach is the inability to be used on wheels, even with minor rim curvatures. Sensitive brakes will rub against the wheel on the fly, causing reduced speed and increased pad wear.

Replacing rim brake pads on a bicycle

Over time, rim pads (like any other bike part) fail. And any self-respecting bike enthusiast, not to mention professionals, should be able to replace them. over, this is easy to do with v-brakes. The main thing is to do everything slowly, clearly observing the technological stages in the required sequence:

  • Open the brake. bring its levers together and remove the iron tip of the shirt from the formed groove (the cable comes out of it).
  • Remove old pads, remembering in which sequence the fasteners were used.
  • Install new pads, sequentially collecting all mounting shims and washers.

It’s even easier when it comes to cartridge pads! It is only necessary to replace the rubber gaskets. remove the locking pin, remove the old one and put a new gasket, and then secure it with the same (or new) split pin.

Care must be taken when changing v-brake pads as they can be left or right (the markings are directly on the pads). Then they should never be confused.

In addition, it is not enough just to change the pads, you also need to adjust them. And before that, check the brake cable for wear or breakage. It should be completely intact and easily move around in a shirt. It is also necessary to check the shape of the wheels so that there are no eights.

The brake pads must be properly pressed against the wheel rim. And the pressure can be adjusted (configured) with the shoe mount. It is not difficult to get the desired angle if you hold down the brake and loosen the nut on each of the pads.

The v-brake cartridge pads should be located strictly horizontally, touching their entire surface to the rim, but not touching the tire. And when the required position is reached, you should fix it with a shoe nut. Regarding conventional brake pads, the rear of the pads must first come into contact with the rim horizontally.

During the tuning process, it is also necessary to ensure that the brake levers come together equally. Position adjustment is possible with a Phillips spring tension screw. If the lever barely moves, then the screw should be tightened, and when the lever moves too easily, unscrew.

How to set up rim brakes

Vibrators do not lose popularity. Ease of maintenance, cheap consumables and unpretentious operation. an excellent option for those who use the bike primarily for moving, without extreme and overloading.

The principle of operation is simple. when pressed, the brake lever pulls the cable (G), which moves the brake levers (I), pressing the pads (J) attached to them against the wheel rim. When the handle is released, the levers return to their original position, installed on them by springs. In this article, we will analyze how to set up and adjust rim brakes:

Rim brakes

The operating principle of rim brakes is extremely simple. On the bicycle handlebar there is a brake lever, from which a special cable (or a hydraulic line is laid) is pulled to the brake pads located on both sides of the bicycle wheel rim. When the handle is pressed, the rim is compressed by the pads, after which the wheel rotation slows down and comes to naught.

There are two types of rim brakes, which in turn are subdivided into several subtypes:

  • Mechanical brakes including:
  • vector (V-brake or vibrake) with V-shaped attachment of the levers to the brake pads;
  • tick-borne (crabs) with U-shaped levers;
  • and cantilever (obsolete predecessors of V-brakes).
  • Hydraulic brakes, in which the applied force is transmitted from the handle to the pads by brake fluid along a specially laid hydraulic mowing line.
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Rim brakes have a number of clear advantages over other types of bicycle brakes:

  • Low loads on bushings and spokes.
  • Less braking heat.
  • Easy setup even in the field.
  • Low weight of the actual brake.
  • Not a high price at all.

Replacing pads on a bicycle

The construction of a bicycle today must certainly be of high quality and durable, so that every rider has the opportunity to 100% enjoy the ride or walk. The most extreme versions of bicycles are considered BMX, because with their help you can really perform tricks and various variations in the air. The main condition for complete comfort and confidence in riding is the bike‘s brakes. Indeed, their serviceability, functionality and efficiency will prevent the occurrence of unpleasant situations and incidents during the movement of the cyclist.

Replacing disc brake pads

There is a step-by-step guide to replacing worn-out disc brake pads:

  • First you need to remove the caliper and clean it if necessary.
  • Then remove the retaining ring or wiring so that the bolt does not unscrew.
  • Remove the boot (twist-on or snap-on, depending on the model). And if the bolt is dirty, then it must also be cleaned.
  • Remove old bicycle brake pads. Sometimes they can be easily removed, and in some models they need to be pryed off-tucked a little, freeing them from the L-shaped protruding grip.
  • Install new (organic or semi-metallic) pads. They should slide along the rotor, and the spring should not break out of its place.
  • Install the bolt, followed by the caliper. To check, you need to press the brake lever several times well. And make sure that the pads have settled correctly and correctly press the rotor.

Disc brake pads should be replaced if:

  • decreased braking force;
  • a brake squeal is heard;
  • or an unpleasant grinding noise is heard when the brake lever is pressed.

Riding a bicycle with worn disc brake pads is unsafe. In addition, the rotor (the steel brake disc itself) may fail. And this will already require serious bicycle repairs.

You will see step-by-step instructions for replacing brake pads on a bicycle with disc brakes in this video review:

How to install and adjust the V-brake yourself

  • Attach the levers to the bike frame.
  • Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
  • Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
  • Connect the cable to the levers and put the spring.

After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.

The accuracy of the mechanism depends largely on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in terms of efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?

Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to the squeeze of the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On a tight cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.

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The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:

  • Reset Springs.
  • Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
  • Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position, the distance from the handle to the handlebar corresponds to the thickness of the finger.

If damage is noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.

Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).

How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of ​​the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of rigid material are placed strictly parallel to the surface of rotation of the wheel.

If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.

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Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.

The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.