How To Make An Electric Scooter Out Of An Ordinary Scooter

Determine the size of the wheels

Before you make an electric scooter yourself, you need to decide on the features of its design. The size and type of wheels (they can be cast or inflatable), the presence of a suspension, the size of the dropouts for mounting the motor-wheel and the location of the battery are of great importance. The optimum wheel diameter depends on the quality of the roads you intend to drive. Option “micro” is only suitable for rolling on tiles and good asphalt. “Mini”. allows you to overcome small obstacles on the way. “Midi” allows you to confidently ride at a speed of 40 km / h and above, and not be afraid of small potholes. “Maxi” is perfect for those who like driving on rough terrain and problem roads. Suspension partially dampens impacts. But there is a rule. the wheel is able to overcome an obstacle, and not exceeding 1/2 of its diameter.

How to make an electric scooter for adults with your own hands

How To Make An Electric Scooter Out Of An Ordinary Scooter

When choosing a personal electric vehicle, it is not necessary to limit yourself to typical factory models. You can assemble an electric scooter yourself, with your own hands, that best suits your existing requests and needs. To do this, you need a regular scooter (base), a wheel motor, a battery and a controller. For the alteration, you will also need control elements. brake levers, a throttle lever and a power switch. The bases of scooters, depending on the diameter of the wheels, are divided into the following types:

  • Micro. up to 8 “;
  • Mini. 8-10 “;
  • Midi. 12-16 “;
  • Maxi. here 20 “.

In addition to the diameter of the wheels, their width can also vary. The scooter, Evo and similar models are also considered scooters, but outwardly and in terms of engine power they are more like electric scooters. The type of base affects the driving characteristics of the electric scooter.

Choosing a place to install the battery

The Li-ion battery can be placed in different parts of the scooter:

  • In the deck, if it has a cavity. With this arrangement of the battery, the electric scooter has an attractive appearance and a low center of gravity, but it is important to protect the battery from possible impacts in the bumps and protrusions of the road.
  • In the steering rack. This method is suitable for placing a battery consisting of several pipes with gaps between them. The battery in the steering rack has almost no effect on the weight distribution of the vehicle and is NOT afraid of damage in case of falls. But the work of installing it in the rack is laborious.
  • On the steering rack. The battery in the form of a bottle or compact box can be fixed using the mounts on the steering column of the scooter. In this case, installing and removing the battery will NOT require much effort. But the battery on the steering rack can interfere with driving and be damaged or fall off if dropped.
  • On the steering wheel, in a bag or case. This option is easy to implement, if necessary, the battery can be easily removed. But the battery on the steering wheel worsens weight distribution, increases the perceptibility of impacts on the front wheel and is poorly protected from damage.
  • Rear trunk, if available. Such a battery is easy to install and remove, but it changes the weight distribution and makes impacts on the rear wheel more noticeable.
  • In a backpack, from which there is a wire with a connector for a scooter. In this case, the design of the scooter is facilitated, its maneuverability is improved, opportunities for active jumping from a jump open up, and the battery can be insulated for its operation in winter. But for the rider himself, riding with the battery behind his back is not the best option, especially if the battery is heavy. That constant load increases the risk of developing diseases of the spine and musculoskeletal system. In addition, carrying the battery in a backpack behind the back changes the weight distribution towards the motor-wheel.

Recommendations for self-assembly Electric scooter

There are many nuances in the question of how to make an electric scooter for adults with your own hands. So, the size of the motor-wheel is selected depending on the width of the dropouts. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of a rechargeable battery, because the weight, ease of control and range of the electric scooter on a single charge depend on it. Modern electric scooters are equipped with lithium batteries. assemblies of lithium-ion cells, LiPo or LiFePO4 batteries. Batteries from Li-ion cells are lighter and cheaper, and LiFePO4. last longer and are NOT afraid of frost.

Controller.

These are the brains of the scooter, the start, the dynamics of acceleration, the thrust uphill will depend on its choice. Selected according to engine parameters. For example, the motor has parameters: 36V, 350W. So the controller must also be 36 V.

The power and current of the controller must be selected with a margin for starting currents and Forcing. For a direct drive, we take a margin of 2 times, for a gear drive. 2.5 times. The rated current of our motor is 350W / 36V = 9.7 A. So, the controller must be designed for the maximum current: 9.72 = 19 A (for direct drive) or 9.72.5 = 24 A (for gear drive).

Base.

The base is the basis of the scooter, it is with it that you need to start the selection of elements for assembly. Her driving performance depends on her choice. It can be taken from a conventional rather than an electric model. It consists of the following components:

When choosing a base, first of all, pay attention to:

  • Wheel diameter;
  • Wheel type: inflatable or cast;
  • The presence of shock absorbers;
  • The width of the dropouts for mounting the motor-wheel;
  • Frame power;
  • A place for a convenient location of the storage battery (accumulator).

The bases can be conditionally divided into the following types:

  • Micro. with miniature wheels, less than 8 inches in diameter,
  • Mini. 8-inch;
  • Midi. 10-12 inches;
  • Maxi. over 12 inches.

If the roads and sidewalks in your city are perfectly flat, then you can choose the micro option, for example 6 inches. The advantage of this option will be maximum compactness and very light weight, which will affect the ease of transportation and lifting to the apartment.

If the asphalt with small cracks and good tiles. mini and inflatable wheels will do, preferably with a shock absorber.

For bad asphalt, as for a long time did not know the repair and dirt roads. you need to choose midi, and sometimes maxi, and of course, inflatable cameras and good suspension. If you want to drive at high speed on bad roads, you need a minimum of 16 inches to avoid head over heels over potholes. Of course, the maxi has its drawbacks. these are large dimensions and weight, which will greatly interfere with lifting the scooter to an apartment for storage or bringing it into transport every day. So, you need to look for a compromise or decide what is more important for you. speed and comfort during the trip or ease of transportation, carrying and storage.

Shock absorbers, of course, extinguish shocks and vibrations from road irregularities, but there is a rule: “a wheel cannot overcome an obstacle larger than half its diameter.” This rule applies not only to curbs and stones, but also a pothole. The larger the diameter, the easier it is to overcome obstacles.

The battery can be located:

  • In a special cavity in the deck. The advantage of this arrangement is a low center of gravity, rather than spoiling the appearance. Disadvantage. you need to protect the battery from shocks in uneven road.
  • In the steering rack. You can place a battery here if the rack consists of two pipes and there is free space between them. Advantages. the battery does not affect the weight distribution, if you make a protective lining on the sides, then the scooter falls are NOT scary. Disadvantage. high labor intensity of work.
  • On the steering rack. A case or bag is screwed into the place where the bottle is attached, and the battery is placed in the yaky. Pros. ease of removal, ease of installation. Cons. deterioration in weight distribution, interferes with driving, if you fall, you can break the body.
  • On the trunk. of little relevance for scooters, due to the lack of a trunk on most models. Pros. ease of removal, ease of installation. Cons. deterioration of weight distribution, blows to the rear wheel.
  • In a backpack. Relevant only with a low weight of the battery. Pros. weight reduction of the scooter, improved maneuverability and disposition to jump, the possibility of battery insulation in winter. Cons. load on the spine, change in weight distribution.

The width of the dropouts is the distance between the seats in the wheel forks. Depends on the category of the base. According to this size, the landing size of the motor-wheel is selected. For the micro base, the width of the dropouts is 45 mm, for the mini 65 mm. For the rest. 100 mm. Sometimes 110 mm are found for a wheel motor with a brake disc, but rarely.

Before starting the assembly, you need to draw a drawing so as not to be mistaken with the dimensions of the elements.

Plywood scooter drawings. How to make an electric scooter with your own hands? Pravkticheskoe quick guide. 2. Motor.

There are the following types:

  • Wheel motor. the motor is installed inside the wheel;
  • With a chain (belt) drive. the motor transmits rotation using a chain or belt.

Sometimes, when making a scooter, unexpected options are chosen, for example, a radiator cooling engine from a car. I met such an option on a forum dedicated to assembling scooters and bicycles. I do not recommend doing this, because the voltage in them is only 12V, with normal power the current will be too large.

When choosing, it is better to give preference to a motor to a wheel, such motors surpass the options with a chain drive in all characteristics. They are more powerful, durable, quiet, sealed, moreover, they do NOT require special maintenance.

The motor wheel can be:

  • Gearbox. Pros. less weight, more efficiency at low speeds, excellent roll-off. Cons. gears wear out and someday require replacement, increased noise, impossibility of regenerative braking.
  • Direct drive (DD). Pros. there are gears, only the bearings wear out, very little noise, you can use the regenerative braking mode. Engine braking is a great option for terrain with large elevation differences. Cons. more weight, worse roll.

The main characteristic of a motor is its power, which depends on the rated voltage and current. Motor power is selected depending on the expected driving speed and terrain.

The most optimal option, which is suitable in most cases, is an engine of medium power, about 350 W, it allows you to accelerate to 30-40 km / h in various terrain. flat or hilly. In this case, comfort and confidence are felt. Feelings of confidence and safety are often lost at higher speeds.

If you are NOT afraid of high speed and plan to drive fast, you will need a powerful motor. 500 W or more.

For a leisurely ride on flat terrain at a speed of about 25-30 km / h, a 250-300 W motor is enough, of course, the speed will decrease uphill. For children and adolescents, it is better to choose models that can develop a speed not painful 20-25 km / h.

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Battery.

The main characteristics of the battery, which are indicated in the catalogs, are its nominal voltage and capacity, the more these parameters, the better. Both of these parameters affect the most important parameter of the battery. the energy (power) reserve. This parameter will determine how much you can travel without recharging.

The reserve of energy (power) is measured in watt times (Wh or Wh). For a powerful motor, the energy reserve must be at least 450 Wh. For average. 250-300 Wh. For the weak. 180-200 Wh. These are the averaged values ​​of the factory modifications. No one prohibits powering an engine with an average power from a capacious battery with an energy reserve of 500 or even 600 Wh, as a result the travel distance will increase to 50-70 km. This is the beauty of self-assembly.

The battery voltage is selected according to the motor voltage, it can be 24V, 36V, 48V or 60V. The most popular are batteries with a voltage of 36V, they are usually equipped with modifications with medium-power engines, weaker models are usually equipped with batteries of 24 volts, and powerful ones with 48 or 60 volts.

Capacity is measured in ampere-hours (Ah or Ah). Usually it varies between 7-10 Ah, the more powerful the engine, the greater the capacity.

For a powerful Electric scooter (500 W), a battery capacity of at least 10 Ah is desirable, at a voltage of 48 V. The energy reserve in this case will be 10×48 = 480 Wh.

For a 350 W motor, a capacity of 9 Ah is well suited, at a voltage of 36 V. The energy reserve in this case will be 9×36 = 324 Wh. At higher voltages, the capacitance may be less, the main thing is that the value obtained from the product in watt times is at least 300 Wh.

For weaker models (about 250 W), batteries with a capacity of about 8 Ah, with a voltage of 24V, are suitable. The energy reserve in this case will be 8×24 = 192 Wh. If you want to increase the autonomy of work. put a battery of medium or even large capacity.

Battery type and manufacturer are also important. They are of the following types:

  • Lithium polymer (LiPo). light weight, high charge and discharge currents, withstand 500-800 charge cycles, fire hazard in case of overcharge.
  • Lithium-ion (LiIon). light weight, 500-1000 charge cycles, dependent on ambient temperature, fire hazard in case of overcharge.
  • Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo4). high charge and discharge currents, 1500-2000 cycles, 20% heavier and more expensive than ions and polymers. NOT fire hazardous, resistant to mechanical deformation. DO NOT lose capacity at subzero temperatures.
  • Lead-acid. much higher weight, low charge-discharge currents, only 300-400 charge cycles.

It would seem that the best option is lithium iron phosphate, the worst is lead acid. But, due to the lower weight and cost, cast polymer or lithium-ion is more suitable for many. Carries constantly extra 20% of the weight because of the longer service life, not everyone wants. Overheating of LiPo and LiIon, and sometimes an explosion (and, as a result, a fire) can occur only in case of overcharging, which is possible only if the protective electronic circuit inside the battery and the charger is broken. These are very rare cases. In general, the pros and cons are known, your business is to choose a more suitable option.

Making an electric scooter with your own hands.

Today, there is a fairly large selection of factory electric scooters on sale, in various price categories, so that most users have plenty to choose from.

What should you do if you want to have a scooter for your needs with a limited budget? There are two options. to take the factory one and gradually modify it, at first limiting itself to its modest capabilities, or to assemble the device practically from scratch. Of course, the first option after all the improvements will cost even more, so it’s better to go the second way. In this case, you can save on some component, invest more money in another. For example, if you need long trips, if speed is not important, you can save on engine power, put this money into a high-quality battery.

In this article we will show you how to make an electric scooter with your own hands. You will find out what components the scooter consists of, what types of each component are and what to choose in this or that case. After reading the article, you can look and. there is enough material on the Internet about assembling a homemade scooter.

How to make an electric scooter with your own hands from a screwdriver

Homemade electric scooter made from a screwdriver: Step by step making homemade products with photos and descriptions, also tests.

An electric scooter can be made from a regular scooter and a cordless screwdriver, homemade does not require any expensive parts, you can do everything yourself.

First of all, you need materials:

  • Scooter.
  • Cordless Screwdriver.
  • Chain and star from a bicycle.
  • Sheet metal.
  • Handlebar grip with cable.
  • Bolts and nuts.

The manufacturing process is shown in the photo.

The bike chainring had to be modified and holes made to attach to the wheel.

The author made the leading star himself from a metal plate.

The star is attached to the screwdriver bit.

The screwdriver is mounted on the scooter frame.

Fitting and installing the chain on the stars.

To control the power button of the Screwdriver, the author installed a spring and cable mechanism on the steering wheel handle.

Scooter parts painted.

Assembly and Final Trials.

Homemade electric scooter is ready.

We recommend that you look at the author, which shows the process of making an electric scooter with your own hands, as well as its tests.

Even if the batteries run out, the scooter can still be used. It will be possible to drive off the mountain, and if you turn off the screwdriver, you can use it in the classic version. By the way, if you ride down a hill on such a scooter with the included, but discharged battery, it can theoretically be recharged.

It is very easy to assemble a homemade product, so you are required to strictly follow the instructions and find all the necessary nodes for pipes, these are tees, corners and so on. The author used ABS plastic pipes as a material, but it seems to me that PVC pipes are also quite suitable. Choose a stronger material.

List of materials and tools that the author used:

Materials:
– ABS pipes, as well as tees, angles, crosses and other elements;
– glue for gluing pipes;
– two bicycle wheels from a child’s bike (rear and front)
– a piece of plywood;
– screwdriver;
– small leading asterisk;
– steel tubes for making bushings;
– self-tapping screws;
– bicycle chain and lock to it;
– two syringes and a hose;
– plastic clamps.

Tools:
– hacksaw for metal;
– screwdriver;
– pressure;
– marker;
– drill with drills;
– pliers.

Scooter manufacturing process:

Step one. We cut blanks
The frame is made of ABS pipes, you will need three pieces in total. Two long pipes and one short piece. Measuring the desired length, clamp the pipe in a vice and cut it using a conventional hand-held metal hacksaw.
Pipes are connected using various parts for installing pipes (tee, angles, etc.).

It is not worth screwing the wheel to the pipe just like that, it is NOT a reliable method. Install the bushings in the pipes first. The author makes them from steel pipes of a suitable diameter. In principle, if the wheel enters between the pipes with a minimum gap, screw it with nuts and not necessarily.

Step three. Front fork and front wheel
Using pipe fittings, Assemble the front of the frame. Remember that the front fork must turn to control the bike. We coat all joints well with pipe glue, you can also use epoxy glue.

The front fork is made of two pieces of pipe, drills holes in them for the bike and install the bushings. Now put the tubes on here and put the wheel in place. The bushings also need to be glued to the pipes. If desired, in order to make the structure more reliable, pipes of a smaller diameter can be laid inside the frame.

Step four. Strong screwdriver
To secure the screwdriver, you will need to make a special pad. The author cuts it out of plywood, exactly how he did it, remained behind the scenes. You can cut the desired profile using a hand jigsaw, or it is better to use an electric one. Treat the plywood and paint, or better at the end Apply several coats of varnish. So the product will not only be beautiful, but also the wood will be protected from moisture.

It’s time to attach the screwdriver. They are different in structure, it depends on how you will fix them. Position the screwdriver so that the end of the chuck is approximately flush with the rear sprocket. Also, keep in mind that there will be an asterisk on the chuck, so the screwdriver will need to be shifted a little later.

The author fixes the tool using ordinary cheap and common plastic ties. The more there are, the more secure the tool will be.

Drill around the handle and body of the hole and tighten the device. Just do not fix the battery, since we will have to remove it to charge it. Consider the fact that screwdrivers should not “walk” under load, otherwise the chain will drop.
To eliminate just such moments, you will need to cut out fasteners from plywood or boards, which will hold the nose of the screwdriver. Fix it with self-tapping screws.

Step five. Installing the leading sprocket
You will need a small drive sprocket, the smaller it is, the higher the torque will be. The asterisk can be found in old motor vehicles. The author installs a small rod inside his sprocket, which is then clamped with a screw.

That’s all, now it is easy and simple to install the sprocket into the screwdriver chuck. It is installed like all attachments. It should be noted that the bearings of the screwdriver must be in good condition, otherwise, if the shaft “walks”, the chain will fly off. The author does not show that the centering is slightly disturbed, but the chain does NOT fly off.

Step six. Installing the chain
Take the bike chain and cut it to the desired length. You need to adjust the length of the chain precisely as there is no way to tension the chain. We stretch the chain through the sprockets and connect with a lock.

That’s it, now turn on the drill and make sure the chain does NOT come loose. If everything works, go to the finishing touches. control system.

Step seven. Gas button
To get the vehicle into action, you need to pull the trigger of the screwdriver. How can this be done? Very simple, we use hydraulics! The author made the hydraulic control system from two syringes and a piece of hose.

We take a piece of plywood and cut out a bracket from it in such a way that it can hold the syringe. As a “slave” syringe, we select a syringe with a larger volume than the “master” one, which is located on the steering wheel. In total, due to hydraulics, it will be easier for you to press the button to turn off the screwdriver.

We put epoxy glue on the bracket, install the syringe, and then fix this whole structure opposite the chicken screwdriver. The plunger of the syringe should be deployed so that when Extending it presses the trigger.

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That’s all, the scooter is ready! We press on the plunger of the syringe, and the scooter starts to go. The harder you press the button, the higher the rotational speed of the screwdriver will be, and the faster the scooter will go. Surely, the battery charge will not last long, but for the child this moment will be unforgettable.

As for the brakes, they are not provided in this design. Apparently, the technique slows down with the same screwdriver. But no one bothers you to put the hand brake on the front wheel.

Homemade electric scooter made from a screwdriver: step by step homemade making and testing.

An electric scooter can be made from a regular scooter and a cordless screwdriver, homemade does not require any expensive parts, you can do everything yourself.

Governing bodies.

The power switch switches only the low-current control circuits of the controller. The switched current is small, so almost any latching button will do.

Gazulke. motorcycle-type trigger or throttle stick. The trigger is preferable, it is instinctively released in an emergency. Must have three wires to connect to the controller circuit.

Brake levers Must be equipped with built-in limit switches that shut off the engine when pressed and enable regenerative braking (if any).

Do-it-yourself electric scooter assembly

Today on the market there are a fairly large number of factory electric scooters and you can choose for every taste and wallet.

One is foldable and lightweight, but rides slowly and does NOT start from a standstill.

The second one starts and accelerates well, but too heavy.

What to do if you want a scooter just for your needs ?

There are two options. either take the factory one and modify it, or assemble the device from scratch.

Both options have the right to life and which way to go is the personal choice of each.

I will try to outline how a set of elements for self-assembly is completed.

The main element of the assembled scooter is the “base”.

Scooter bases are conventionally divided into subspecies:

Micro. with wheels up to 8 inches,

Mini wheels 8-10 inches,

Midi. 12-16 inches,

Maxi. here is 20 inches and more.

Scooters with wide tires, not bicycle tires, are a bit apart. Reno, Evo, Skruzer and their clones are also scooters, although in terms of engine power and appearance they are clearly closer to scooters and scooters.

So the base, it is from it that you should start dancing.

Here the choice of the base depends on the final driving performance of the Electric scooter.

What should be noted in the first place ?

Dimension of wheels, cast or inflatable, the presence of a suspension, a place for a convenient location of the battery and the width of the dropouts for installing the motor-wheel.

If in your city mirrored asphalt is washed with shampoo every evening, then 5.5 inches will be fine for you.

If the tile and cracks in the asphalt are 8 inches this is the minimum and pneumatics are very desirable.

If your asphalt has not been repaired for the last 10 years, don’t even look below 12 inches.

Do you want to go at a speed of 40 with a tail and are not afraid to fly head over heels in an unexpected hole? Here are 16 inches and above.

Suspension partially Reduces bumps from bumps on small wheels, but the rule “the wheel can run over an obstacle NOT more than half its diameter” will NOT go anywhere.

Location of the battery. Options. in the deck, in the steering rack, on the handlebars in a bag or case, on the trunk, in a backpack.

Some scooters have a cavity in the deck that allows you to use it to pack the battery assembly there.

Pros. low center of gravity, appearance. Cons. sometimes you need additional protection of the battery from impacts on the projections of the roadway.

The battery can be placed in the steering column if it consists of several pipes and there is free space between them. Pros. the battery does not noticeably affect the weight distribution of the scooter; when making the cladding, the scooter is NOT afraid of falls. Cons. labor intensity of work.

Also, some scooters have bottle mounts on the steering rack, where you can screw a case or a battery in a “bottle”. Pros. ease of installation, easy removability. Cons. interferes with driving, if you fall, you can break off the mount.

You can place the battery on the steering wheel in the case. Pros. ease of installation, easy removability. Cons. deterioration in weight distribution, more perceptible blows to the front wheel. If dropped, it is possible to break the case.

On the handlebars in the bag, batteries are usually made for small and foldable scooters. The bag for photographic equipment is sufficient for a small battery and does NOT draw attention to itself. Pros. ease of installation, Cons. risk of damage to the battery when dropped.

The rear trunk battery was a popular solution for early e-bikes. For scooters, they are of little relevance due to the lack of a trunk on most of them. Pros. ease of installation, easy removability. Cons. change in weight distribution, Perceptible blows to the rear wheel.

It is also possible to ride with a battery in a backpack and a manual with a connector for one scooter. Pros. the ability to insulate the battery for use in the winter. Facilitation of the scooter, due to which the maneuverability and disposition to active jumping from the jump are noticeably increased. Cons. diseases of the spine from constant load (depends on the weight of the battery), change in weight distribution on the side of the motor-wheel.

This is the distance between the seats in the front or rear fork of the scooter.

The size of the motor-wheel of the scooter will depend on the selected category of the base.

For micro and mini models, standard 45 or 65 mm motor wheels. For what is more. 100 mm.

Bicycle mk under the front wheel just also have a standard of 100mm.

There are mk 110, with a brake disc, but less often.

135mm is already the bicycle size of the rear wheel, under the gears on one side.

The electrical part of the electric scooter is quite simple, 4 points. battery, controller, motor and controls.

Previously, the batteries were lead-acid, heavy, with a low resource of 300-400 cycles and low charge-discharge currents.

Modern electric scooters ride on varieties of lithium batteries. lithium-ion, lithium-polymer, lithium-iron phosphate.

Consider the difference in them.

Lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries have a favorable cost, high charge and discharge currents, a service life of 500-800 cycles.

But they are fire hazardous. I do not recommend using them.

Lithium-ion (LiIon). 500-1000 cycles, light weight, temperature dependent.

In general, there are three subspecies of ionoc, depending on the type of chemistry. Some have higher capacitance, but more internal resistance, others high-current, but do not shine with capacitance.

Require protection against mechanical damage when used on scooters. There have been cases of ignition from impacts when dropped.

Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4). About twice as heavy as ion ions, more expensive. Produce and accept high currents, service life 2000 cycles.

NOT fire hazardous, rather resistant to mechanical deformation. Can be discharged at sub-zero temperatures.

The drive of the scooter wheel from an external motor by a belt or chain is still found, but it is already clearly losing positions to motor-wheels.

Wheel motor is the best choice of motor for self-assembly electric scooter.

They are of two types. geared and direct drive. Let’s analyze the difference, pros and cons of each type.

Lighter than mk direct drive of the same power, better efficiency at low speeds. Excellent roll, due to the presence of freewheel, which is very useful when using a kick scooter. There are wearing parts. gears, someday they will need to be replaced. Noise. the gearbox whines during operation. Impossibility of regenerative braking. Slightly better boost potential due to higher RPM.

Direct drive (DD).

Heavier gearboxes, roll-off is worse due to the cog effect. There are wearing parts other than bearings in such mk. Low noise, and when using a sine controller can be generally silent. They have the ability to use regenerative braking. They justify themselves when using a scooter in areas with large differences in altitude and as a means of saving brake pads. When installing mk on mini and micro scooters, it happens that recuperation is the only adequate brake on board.

The controller is the brains of our scooter, the thrust in the hills, the way of starting and the dynamics of acceleration will depend on its choice. The choice of controller must be made according to the parameters of the motor. For example, a wheel motor has parameters: 48V 350W, what does this mean ?

The nominal voltage of the motor-wheel is 48 volts. Nobody forbids feeding it less, but at the same time its power will be lower. No one forbids feeding more to it, but it is important NOT to overheat the mk with the pumped in power.

This is the rated power of a given micron. As practice shows, the rated power can be boosted by 1.5-2 times in DD and 2-2.5 times in gearboxes. To select a controller, let’s convert watts to amperes. 350/48 = 7.3 amperes. Of course, it will go at 7.3 amperes, but it’s rather sad, so we force it to 12-15 amperes for direct drive and 15-18 for the gearbox. For these currents, we will need to look for a controller for such a micron.

1. power switch.

The power supply is usually connected directly to the controller and is NOT interrupted during idle time. The power switch disconnects the low-current part of the controller, which supplies voltage to the control circuit. Since the currents there are small, you can use almost any suitable latching button.

It is a motorcycle-type throttle stick, or half or throttle trigger. I strongly recommend choosing the trigger, since it is easy to release it in an emergency, and the person instinctively grabs the handle more tightly to hold on. Has at least three wires. plus 5 volts, ground and signal output.

3. Brake levers.

Electric scooters are equipped with brake levers with built-in limit switches to turn off the motor when the brake is pressed. If the controller has an activated regenerative braking mode, it will also turn on when any brake lever is pressed. There are built-in buttons, reed switches and hall sensors. Connection. ground, output signal. For hall sensors, an additional 5 volts is connected. Sometimes, in order not to change the standard handles, separate modules with reed switches or hall sensors are installed. They are attached to a cable, or to the body of the handles.

So we figured out the general electrical device.

Consider assembly examples.

This project uses the Yedoo Ox database,

Lithium iron phosphate battery cells

And mk direct drive, diameter 12 inches.

The battery is divided into two packs and is located in the deck and in the steering rack.

The controller is fixed under the steering column, where it does not interfere and is always blown by the air flow.

Rear drive, this is a convenient solution for climbing hills. The battery is protected from below by a 4mm Alucobond plate.

The final characteristics of the scooter:

Battery 16S3P, 52 volts 9 ampere-hour.

Cruising in store. 25 km.

Maximum speed. 30 km / h.

Base. Yedoo Mezeq new.

Battery pack LiFePo4 9 eco.

Assembled in a body made of alucobond, which is fixed on the trunk.

Motor-wheel 350 watt, reducer.

Wiring to mk and akb is carried out through the frame pipes.

The final characteristics of the Electric scooter:

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Battery. 16S1P 52 volts 9 ampere hours.

Cruising range. 30-35 km.

Maximum speed. 36 km / h.

Third Assembled Scooter.

Base. Yedoo OX new.

Battery made of ionic 18650.

Collected in a case.

The case is fixed on the steering wheel.

Motor. reducer in cast rim of 12 inches.

Final characteristics:

Battery. 13S5P LiIon 48 volts 11 ampere hours.

Cruising in store. 40 km.

Maximum speed. 38 km / h.

Base. Yedoo City.

Battery. cast ionca 18650, assembled in the steering rack.

A 4mm alucobond protection plate is installed below. There is also a controller on it.

Above made of a protective box made of Alucobond 3mm.

Motor. gearbox in cast wheel 12 inches.

Final characteristics:

Do-it-yourself electric scooter assembly

Today on the market there are a fairly large number of factory electric scooters and you can choose for every taste and wallet.

One is foldable and lightweight, but rides slowly and does NOT start from a standstill.

The second one starts and accelerates well, but too heavy.

What to do if you want a scooter just for your needs ?

There are two options. either take the factory one and modify it, or assemble the device from scratch.

Both options have the right to life and which way to go is the personal choice of each.

I will try to outline how a set of elements for self-assembly is completed.

The main element of the assembled scooter is the “base”.

Scooter bases are conventionally divided into subspecies:

Micro. with wheels up to 8 inches,

Mini wheels 8-10 inches,

Midi. 12-16 inches,

Maxi. here is 20 inches and more.

Scooters with wide tires, not bicycle tires, are a bit apart. Reno, Evo, Skruzer and their clones are also scooters, although in terms of engine power and appearance they are clearly closer to scooters and scooters.

So the base, it is from it that you should start dancing.

Here the choice of the base depends on the final driving performance of the Electric scooter.

What should be noted in the first place ?

Dimension of wheels, cast or inflatable, the presence of a suspension, a place for a convenient location of the battery and the width of the dropouts for installing the motor-wheel.

If in your city mirrored asphalt is washed with shampoo every evening, then 5.5 inches will be fine for you.

If tiles and cracks in the asphalt. 8 inches is the minimum and pneumatics are very desirable.

If your asphalt has not been repaired for the last 10 years, don’t even look below 12 inches.

Do you want to go at a speed of 40 with a tail and are not afraid to fly head over heels in an unexpected hole? Here are 16 inches and above.

Suspension partially Reduces bumps from bumps on small wheels, but the rule “the wheel can run over an obstacle NOT more than half its diameter” will NOT go anywhere.

Location of the battery. Options. in the deck, in the steering rack, on the handlebars in a bag or case, on the trunk, in a backpack.

Some scooters have a cavity in the deck that allows you to use it to pack the battery assembly there.

Pros. low center of gravity, appearance. Cons. sometimes you need additional protection of the battery from impacts on the projections of the roadway.

The battery can be placed in the steering column if it consists of several pipes and there is free space between them. Pros. the battery does not noticeably affect the weight distribution of the scooter; when making the cladding, the scooter is NOT afraid of falls. Cons. labor intensity of work.

Also, some scooters have bottle mounts on the steering rack, where you can screw a case or a battery in a “bottle”. Pros. ease of installation, easy removability. Cons. interferes with driving, if you fall, you can break off the mount.

You can place the battery on the steering wheel in the case. Pros. ease of installation, easy removability. Cons. deterioration in weight distribution, more perceptible blows to the front wheel. If dropped, it is possible to break the case.

On the handlebars in the bag, batteries are usually made for small and foldable scooters. The bag for photographic equipment is sufficient for a small battery and does NOT draw attention to itself. Pros. ease of installation, Cons. risk of damage to the battery when dropped.

The rear trunk battery was a popular solution for early e-bikes. For scooters, they are of little relevance due to the lack of a trunk on most of them. Pros. ease of installation, easy removability. Cons. change in weight distribution, Perceptible blows to the rear wheel.

It is also possible to ride with a battery in a backpack and a manual with a connector for one scooter. Pros. the ability to insulate the battery for use in the winter. Facilitation of the scooter, due to which the maneuverability and disposition to active jumping from the jump are noticeably increased. Cons. diseases of the spine from constant load (depends on the weight of the battery), change in weight distribution on the side of the motor-wheel.

This is the distance between the seats in the front or rear fork of the scooter.

The size of the motor-wheel of the scooter will depend on the selected category of the base.

For micro and mini models, standard 45 or 65 mm motor wheels. For what is more. 100 mm.

Bicycle mk under the front wheel just also have a standard of 100mm.

There are mk 110, with a brake disc, but less often.

135mm is already the bicycle size of the rear wheel, under the gears on one side.

The electrical part of the electric scooter is quite simple, 4 points. battery, controller, motor and controls.

Previously, the batteries were lead-acid, heavy, with a low resource of 300-400 cycles and low charge-discharge currents.

Modern electric scooters ride on varieties of lithium batteries. lithium-ion, lithium-polymer, lithium-iron phosphate.

Consider the difference in them.

Lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries have a favorable cost, high charge and discharge currents, a service life of 500-800 cycles.

But they are fire hazardous. I do not recommend using them.

Lithium-ion (LiIon). 500-1000 cycles, light weight, temperature dependent.

In general, there are three subspecies of ionoc, depending on the type of chemistry. Some have higher capacitance, but more internal resistance, others high-current, but do not shine with capacitance.

Require protection against mechanical damage when used on scooters. There have been cases of ignition from impacts when dropped.

Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4). About twice as heavy as ion ions, more expensive. Produce and accept high currents, service life 2000 cycles.

NOT fire hazardous, rather resistant to mechanical deformation. Can be discharged at sub-zero temperatures.

The drive of the scooter wheel from an external motor by a belt or chain is still found, but it is already clearly losing positions to motor-wheels.

Wheel motor is the best choice of motor for self-assembly electric scooter.

They are of two types. geared and direct drive. Let’s analyze the difference, pros and cons of each type.

Lighter than mk direct drive of the same power, better efficiency at low speeds. Excellent roll, due to the presence of freewheel, which is very useful when using a kick scooter. There are wearing parts. gears, someday they will need to be replaced. Noise. The gearbox whines during operation. Impossibility of regenerative braking. Slightly better boost potential due to higher RPM.

Direct drive (DD).

Heavier gearboxes, roll-off is worse due to the cog effect. There are wearing parts other than bearings in such mk. Low noise, and when using a sine controller can be generally silent. They have the ability to use regenerative braking. They justify themselves when using a scooter in areas with large differences in altitude and as a means of saving brake pads. When installing mk on mini and micro scooters, it happens that recuperation is the only adequate brake on board.

The controller is the brains of our scooter, the thrust in the hills, the way of starting and the dynamics of acceleration will depend on its choice. The choice of controller must be made according to the parameters of the motor. For example, a wheel motor has parameters: 48V 350W, what does this mean ?

The nominal voltage of the motor-wheel is 48 volts. Nobody forbids feeding it less, but at the same time its power will be lower. No one forbids feeding more to it, but it is important NOT to overheat the mk with the pumped in power.

This is the rated power of a given micron. As practice shows, the rated power can be boosted by 1.5-2 times in DD and 2-2.5 times in gearboxes. To select a controller, let’s convert watts to amperes. 350/48 = 7.3 amperes. Of course, it will go at 7.3 amperes, but it’s rather sad, so we force it to 12-15 amperes for direct drive and 15-18 for the gearbox. For these currents, we will need to look for a controller for such a micron.

1. power switch.

The power supply is usually connected directly to the controller and is NOT interrupted during idle time. The power switch disconnects the low-current part of the controller, which supplies voltage to the control circuit. Since the currents there are small, you can use almost any suitable latching button.

It is a motorcycle-type throttle stick, or half or throttle trigger. I strongly recommend choosing the trigger, since it is easy to release it in an emergency, and the person instinctively grabs the handle more tightly to hold on. Has at least three wires. plus 5 volts, ground and signal output.

3. Brake levers.

Electric scooters are equipped with brake levers with built-in limit switches to turn off the motor when the brake is pressed. If the controller has an activated regenerative braking mode, it will also turn on when any brake lever is pressed. There are built-in buttons, reed switches and hall sensors. Connection. ground, output signal. For hall sensors, an additional 5 volts is connected. Sometimes, in order not to change the standard handles, separate modules with reed switches or hall sensors are installed. They are attached to a cable, or to the body of the handles.

So we figured out the general electrical device.

Consider assembly examples.

This project uses the Yedoo Ox database,

Lithium iron phosphate battery cells

And mk direct drive, diameter 12 inches.

The battery is divided into two packs and is located in the deck and in the steering rack.

The controller is fixed under the steering column, where it does not interfere and is always blown by the air flow.

Rear drive, this is a convenient solution for climbing hills. The battery is protected from below by a 4mm Alucobond plate.

The final characteristics of the scooter:

Battery 16S3P, 52 volts 9 ampere-hour.

Power reserve. 25 km.

Maximum speed. 30 kmph.

Base. Yedoo Mezeq new.

Battery pack from LiFePo4 9 a / h packages.

Assembled in a body made of alucobond, which is fixed on the trunk.

Motor-wheel 350 watt, reducer.

Wiring to mk and akb is carried out through the frame pipes.

The final characteristics of the Electric scooter:

Akb. 16S1P 52 volts 9 amp / hour.

Power reserve. 30-35 km.

Maximum speed. 36 kmph.

Third Assembled Scooter.

Base. Yedoo OX new.

Battery made of ionic 18650.

Collected in a case.

The case is fixed on the steering wheel.

Motor. Gearbox in cast rim 12 inches.

Final characteristics:

Akb. 13S5P LiIon 48 Volt 11 Amp / hour.

Power reserve. 40 km.

Maximum speed. 38 kmph.

Base. Yedoo city.

Akb. Cast ionic 18650, assembled in a steering rack.

A 4mm alucobond protection plate is installed below. There is also a controller on it.

Above made of a protective box made of Alucobond 3mm.

Motor. Gearbox in cast wheel 12 inches.

Final characteristics: