How to make a wheel on a speed bike

How to carry out the installation correctly

After carrying out the above work, you need to assemble the bushing to its original position. This is done in the following sequence: right bearings. wheel axle. cone. left bearings. stopper. washers and rivets. lock nut.

It is almost always necessary to adjust the rear hub of a bicycle after assembling. This is done only on the left side. first, the lock nut is slightly loosened with a 15 mm wrench, then it is tightened to the stop, but the cone must be held in a fixed position.

Using the described method, you can completely get rid of the backlash of the axis, at least. to reduce it to a minimum. Most likely, you will have to carry out the same operation more than once, but you need to achieve synchronous movement of the axle and wheel.

Note: slight cranking is quite acceptable, but tightening the lock nut too tight can lead to difficulty in movement.

This completes the maintenance of the rear bike sleeve. It will be necessary to check the quality of work. test the iron friend at different speeds, determine if there is a backlash, how tightly all the details are fixed, if there are any extraneous sounds. If something does not suit you, then the process of disassembling / assembling the rear hub will need to be repeated.

Maintaining the rear hub of a bike is not a daunting task. even a beginner can handle the job. But if you cannot disassemble the bushing on your own, then you need to contact a specialist. with strong pressure on the part, it can be damaged, which will require a complete replacement.

Dismantling instructions

Obviously, in order to repair a wheel, it must be removed from the bike. For this, it is better to put the latter on the handlebar and saddle, after removing the attachments. There are two ways to fix the wheel to the frame:

  • an eccentric through the hollow axis;
  • nuts or lambs.

In the first case, you just need to turn the eccentric lever 180 degrees and then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the axle. In the case of an eccentric attachment, the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle on one side does not extend beyond the thickness of the fork in which it is installed. Experienced users must take this point into account when repairing. In the second case, the rear wheel hub axle is always longer than the distance between the fork stays by at least 15–20 mm. Thus, the axle extension beyond the outer side of the fork should be no less than 5-6 mm on each side. It is important to observe these ratios when re-assembling the rear wheel hub. After the fasteners are removed or loosened, the chain must be dropped from the drive sprocket and the wheel can be removed. If the bike is equipped not with disc brakes, but with rim brakes, then most likely you will need to dissolve them by throwing off the brake cable from the traction.

Eccentric Nut

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two wrenches.

Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unrolled simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns eat up the corners of the nut due to a loose fit and sliding.

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.

Single Speed conversion

The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, the parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the bearings of the hub, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The rear speed device is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is a short-lived affair, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

  • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
  • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
  • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
  • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, you should slightly loosen the spoke tension. This can be done using a round key with knock-out holes for different diameters of the knitting needles. You need to loosen a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

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Types and arrangement of the rear / front hub of a mountain bike

In the MTB class, only two types of sleeve mechanisms are common: axle-cone-ball bearing and axle-industrial bearing. It is clear from the names of the classes that the difference between them lies in the structure of the supports.

How to apply lubricant

The goal is to lubricate balls, cones and cups. This can be done as quickly and efficiently as possible using the following technology:

  • Lubricate the cup with your finger.
  • Put the balls into the cup using medical tweezers, observing the intended purpose of the groups sorted during disassembly.
  • Apply a thin layer of lubricant over the balls.
  • Repeat steps 1-3 for the second side.
  • Put the boot on the locked cone located on the side of the cassette (relevant only for the rear bushings).
  • Apply a thin layer of grease to the beveled surface of both cone nuts.

There should not be a lot of lubricant at the contact points. This statement is relevant only because excess grease is squeezed out through the anthers, and it intensively begins to collect dust. You can estimate the sufficient filling level from the photo. There are usually no problems with the installation of balls. They adhere well to the lubricant, which is already in the cup according to paragraph 1 of the technological instructions.

It is customary to lightly coat the thread on the axle and the ends of the nuts with a compound that was used to treat rubbing surfaces. This activity is designed to minimize oxidation of metals and the formation of rust at the interface of detachable parts.

How to properly disassemble, clean and lubricate the rear hub

Immediately remember one truth: any service is recommended to be carried out with a snagged sleeve. Otherwise, the chances of assembling the wheel correctly and quickly are unlikely to work. this can only be done by a person who is already experienced in servicing bicycles.

Step-by-step instructions for maintaining the rear bicycle hub:

  • Remove the cassette from the axle using a whip and a puller.
  • Opening the retaining ring.
  • We remove all bearings and washers. Note:the sleeve can be on industrial bearings and bulk bearings, but in any case, it is very important to remember their original location in the sleeve. This rule must be observed when removing the washers.
  • We carry out a careful inspection of the bearings. if they are damaged, this means the need to replace them with new parts.
  • We take out the axle. it does not understand.
  • We clean the body of the rear hub of the bicycle from dirt. All internal cavities must be wiped with a dry cloth.
  • When installing back, each part is thoroughly lubricated, special attention should be paid to the bearings during this process.
  • The last step is to install the stopper and tighten the fastening nut. It is not necessary to apply great efforts to tighten, as this can result in a problem of free wheel rotation.

Of course, everything looks quite easy and simple, but there are a lot of nuances in servicing the rear hub of a bicycle. they must be known and taken into account in the process of work:

  • First, the direct disassembly of the bushing should be started only after the cassette has been removed. over, the sleeve is disassembled from the opposite side and, as a rule, it is on the left. The locknut, if any, is unscrewed with a 15 mm wrench, then the stopper is removed (again, if any).
  • Secondly, you need to be extremely careful when removing the washers and rings. they will need to be laid out on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the exact order, if this moment is overlooked, the assembly of the rear bicycle hub after cleaning and lubricating it can turn into a real torment.
  • Thirdly, after twisting the housing of the rear hub, its axis will begin to give in. just at this moment the bearings will appear. And again, you need to be extremely careful when removing the bearings. the parts are small and easy to lose. We remove each bearing with a knitting needle or tweezers, carefully wipe it with a cloth soaked in kerosene or gasoline, and put it aside. Just in the process of wiping, the bearings must be carefully inspected for damage, and if there are any, then the part must be replaced.

Note: in the articles and instructions for servicing the rear hub of a bicycle, you can find a recommendation to use acetone to wipe bearings. this is permissible, but it should be borne in mind that the aroma from such a product will not be the most pleasant, and acetone can corrode the skin on the fingers. And one more thing. many kulibins, in order not to lose small bearings, use a magnet. in no case should this be done! The fact is that the bearing is magnetized and during the operation of the bicycle, iron dust is attracted to these small parts. the fact that the hub will soon become unusable can be predicted with confidence.

It is highly undesirable to confuse the left and right parts when disassembling / assembling the rear hub of a bicycle. this can lead to wheel play. If at least one ball is lost, then you will have to carry out a full replacement of the bearings. Sometimes, when opening the bushing, iron dust can be observed near the axle. this means that the bearings are completely worn out, they must be completely replaced.

How to change the rear wheel on a speed bike

Not taking into account the bike in the country nowhere. In the literal sense, verbiage. not to go anywhere. Not behind a loaf, not after screws, not after matches. Besides, if there is no car. And if the car sat down, and the driver tasted the aromatic apple Calvados in the morning? You need to walk, which takes a lot of time. And if there is a bicycle, I jumped on top of it, and in a few minutes the loaf is shorter, and the screws are bought, and the matches are obtained. Therefore, it is scarce that the bicycle must be at your disposal, but besides, it must be (forever (eternal serviceable, ready at any time to deliver you on urgent matters.

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Carrying out a spring revision of my old high-speed bike, I found out, get and sign an eight on the rear wheel. a change in its geometry. The rim was curved to the extent that it constantly bumped into the brake shoes, making it impossible to ride safely.

First we decided to learn the knitting needles. There are special ways to do this at home. For those who are interested, it is satisfactory to search the Internet for how to fix the eight. A closer inspection revealed that the spoke fog was missing. The plastic spoke protector installed for the wheel makes it difficult to install new ones, so it wouldn’t be a sin and smth. make completely disassemble.

Turn the bike upside down, unscrew the eccentric clamp nut, remove the eccentric itself from the hole in the axle, release the footrest, remove the track and the wheel. In this case, you need to loosen the brake shoes and release the air from the wheel so that the cars)) do not cling to them.

Unscrew the device, pull out one side of the tire, gently prying it with a flat screwdriver, without tearing the camera. We take out the camera, after we remove the tire.

Now you need to remove the asterisk. It is impossible to do this bypassing a special puller, as a result of which we took care of its purchase in advance.

Inserts the puller into the middle of the sprocket and unscrew it with a gas wrench. In good time, for these purposes, the first counter key at 24.

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On top of our speed bike was a single rim wheel. About fifteen people all modern bikes are equipped with double rim wheels. It seems that they are stronger and more reliable. The difference in price is small: the illiterate is very large, so we listened to the seller and bought a prima with a double rim.

At first, the plan for replacing the rear piece of hardware on a high-speed bike seemed simple: wind a sprocket on a new one, insert a camera, a tire and find it on the bike. But on closer inspection it turned out, Ayushki? wheel axles are different. The old one. with a hole among the eccentric, and the new one. without it.

Thanks to this, the axis had to be rearranged from the old drug to the new one. This requires 2 keys. We hold the locknut with one, and unscrew the other with the other. After unscrewing, remove the washer and unscrew the lock nut, which is the dust boot of the bearing. Die and do not get up while unscrewing the nut, watch out for balls that can fly out of the gap formed. Now you can take the axis.

Remove the pin from the new wheel in the same way. In it, the lubricant is fresh, thick, thanks to which the bearing balls, sticking to it, turned out to be holding their place.

Carefully, adding fresh grease, insert the pin with a hole for the eccentric onto the new gear and tighten the nuts in the reverse order.

Tighten the nuts with a cone so that the bearing is needed as long as there is no backlash in the carriage, but in turn the wheel rotates freely. On both sides of the axle, we leave a space equal to 1 cm to the edges so that it fits into the eyes of the rear fork of the bicycle. This distance is regulated by a washer in the form of a sleeve. Tightening the second nut, we fix the first with a key, so that it does not move, otherwise the pretty wheel will spin a little with effort.

Then we collect everything in the reverse order. We install the protection of the spokes, with the puller we twist the asterisk.

On the one hand, we fill the tire, insert the camera, fill the tire under the broom. We pump the chamber with a pump, then we bleed off the cover so that it fits into place.

Today we take the wheel, put the chain on the sprocket and install the spindle into the fork eyes. The tire, having pressed on it, to reckon with what to push between the brake pads.

Install the footrest, insert the eccentric hook and secure it with a nut.

Let’s adjust the brakes by fixing the pads near the rim. We pump up the camera and make the first exit. This completes the replacement of the rear sports bike car.

Number of stars

The cassettes are selected by the number of stars. Older bike cassettes mostly have seven stars, nowadays 8/10/11 and even 12 star cassettes are installed on road and mountain bikes.

You can determine the number of stars by marking, for example, 11-36 T, 10 speed indicates the number of teeth (1 small, 36 large) and 10 stars.

According to the material of the stars

  • Steel (chrome-plated, nickel-plated or otherwise coated) is inexpensive, durable and the most common material. Cheap cassettes naturally serve less expensive ones.
  • Titanium alloy. used in top cassettes (sometimes only on large stars), very high price, low weight. There is no consensus regarding the durability of titanium stars versus good steel stars.
  • Aluminum Alloy (Anodized). Used in Weitwinner cassettes. Very low weight, high price, low resource (may be at the level of a bad steel cassette).

Change the sprocket on the rear cassette

The set of transmission stars of the rear wheel is several times larger than the front one. The standard kit includes eight components, and in high-speed models (or on a sports bike) there are 9 or 11.

It is worth mentioning right away that a cassette or ratchet can be placed behind. The cassette is a modern version with an internal splined mounting on the hub axle. Ratchets, as an outdated option, can only be found on a budget high-speed bike. The set usually includes 5-7 gears. External mount, threaded, removable tool differs from cassette.

The fundamental difference from the cassette is its integrity. it is impossible to change the star separately on the ratchet. Here, either all at once, or nothing at all. Therefore, we will consider how to install a new sprocket on the cassette.

As with replacing the leading stars, special tools are required here:

  • cassette remover;
  • chain whip-retainer;
  • adjustable wrench or head;
  • optional: wrenches, chain release.

When removing the cassette, you will need to first remove the rear wheel from the bike and then the axle nuts. At the same time, when replacing the sprockets, you can also clean the chain. to remove it, you need a squeeze.

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Sequence of work: 1. Remove the rear wheel with a 15 wrench, with eccentric fastening everything is simple. unclench the lever and loosen the fixing nut.

The next step is to unscrew the axle nuts. You will need a 17 key for it. To roll the mount off the rotating axle, we put on an additional nut to fix the axle.

Unscrew the bearing cone and pull out the bearing from the opposite side.

Remove axle with taper and bearing. About the bushing components: if necessary, you can immediately replace them with new ones.

Place the whip on the largest (lowest) star. We will rotate it clockwise.

Use an adjustable wrench or a head to turn the puller counterclockwise.

It is so easy to shoot a cassette at home. Most modern star sets are collapsible, you can install one or two new stars. However, in case of severe wear, when half of the cassette is worn off, it makes no sense to change them separately. Difficulties can also arise if the largest sprocket has been erased, on which all the others are usually attached.

Is it possible to dismantle a cassette without a puller and a whip? In principle, this can be done with a slotted tube and a spanner. The whip can be made by yourself by welding a piece of an old chain to the metal handle of the knife.

When replacing individual stars, especially the middle ones, we disassemble the cassette carefully so as not to lose all the spacer and fixing washers. Everything is easier with a cassette on a spider. it does not need to be disassembled, the star is removed separately from its mount.

Rear transmission assembly:

  • Put and fix a new star, assemble a cassette.
  • Using a puller, install the drum on the spline mount of the sleeve. Before tightening, the drum must be leveled so that the connection does not wear off under load. The whip is not needed here. just rotate the puller clockwise with effort.
  • Assemble the bushing: insert the axle from the side of the cassette, then the bearing and the cone on the left side, fix the axle with nuts.
  • Put on the chain and put on the rear wheel.

Check transmission operation and adjust rear derailleur. Timely replacement of sprockets will save you from unpleasant surprises on trips and will, in general, increase the resource of the bicycle transmission.


To replace the cassette, you will need several keys, both special bicycle and regular keys:

The first tool is needed in order to loosen the mechanism, the rest. to fix the structure. Next, we will consider step by step how the cassette is replaced on a bicycle.

We remove the asterisk ourselves

Turn the bike over and place it on the handlebar and saddle.

First of all, remove the wheel by unscrewing the fastening nuts.

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By unscrewing the nut, remove the cassette, taking into account that there may be intermediate washers between the small sprockets, instead of gaskets. 5. When disassembling this entire structure, carefully fold all the parts so that they lie in the sequence in which you removed them, otherwise difficulties will arise during assembly. 6. Having removed all the sprockets and the cassette, the protective plastic ring is removed last. Inspect all removed parts carefully, replace worn ones, clean and lubricate so that after assembly the assembly runs for a long time.

The assembly of the sprocket cassette is carried out in the reverse order. The chain is put on, the rear wheel is twisted, the device turns over and it is again ready to surf the roads bringing joy and pleasure from the movement. The editorial staff of invites you to get acquainted with the most beautiful places in Russia, where you can go, taking your bike with you. Subscribe to our channel in Yandex.Zen

How to wash and lubricate?

If you decide to leave the old cassette, then before putting it back on the drum, the mechanism must be cleaned and lubricated. It is very easy to clean these bike parts: put the sprockets in a container of hot soapy water, leave for a while, and then use a brush to wipe off the dirt and old grease with force. Next, wipe the sprockets and washers with a dry cloth and leave to dry completely.

Remember to follow the sequence!

By the way, if you decide to completely replace the cassette, the new system must also be lubricated before installation.

Spacing Standards for Bushings

The distance between the dropouts is very important when installing a new wheel hub. To ensure the correct position of the wheel, you must:

  • matching the width of the feathers and the inner nuts of the sleeve;
  • free thread on the outside for nut tightening;
  • on qr (eccentric clamp), the adjusting nut must fit snugly against the dropout, full lever travel.

The short axle will not fit into the mount or the tightening will be loose. The same applies when the axis (especially qr) is longer than the distance between the ends of the frame. The wheel will oscillate.

  • 110 mm. single speed models;
  • 114 mm. for bushings with 3-4 gears;
  • 120 mm. for bicycles with a fixed gear;
  • 126 and 130. on a road bike;
  • 135 mm is a common standard for MTB and some road models;
  • 150 mm. for bikes of extreme directivity (Downhill, Freeride).

Adjustment of the dimensions of the bushings, which exceed the width between the stays, is achieved by means of additional spacers. However, you should not do this under qr, and you also cannot separate the mounts to the sides. This is fraught with damage to the legs.

The length of the gap between the dropouts is measured between their inner surfaces, along the lower ends, strictly in the horizontal plane. Why? The above standards correspond to the distance between the locknuts, which must strictly adhere to the dropouts.

Front Fork Distance Standards:

  • 9 X 100 mm. running size for most bicycles with wheel nut or eccentric fastening;
  • 15 X 110mm. for cross country bike with QR clip;
  • 20 X 110 mm. Extreme bike front hubs (eccentrics and bolts);
  • huge size used on fat bike.

Distance measurement is carried out in the same way, the dropouts and locknuts of the bushing must be completely rubbed in.

Bicycle dropouts: varieties

A dropout is a special assembly of a bicycle frame, with the help of which the hub axle is attached to it. Each wheel has two fastening lugs, regardless of the fastening. nut or eccentric.

Since the third wheel has not yet been invented on a regular bike, it turns out that there are four dropouts in total. Location: intersection of the frame stays for the rear, and the ends of the fork for the front wheel.

Specificity: one of the sectors around the circumference is free, that is, the dropout is, in fact, a half-ring. The main purpose is to secure the wheels. Also, seats of this type make it easy to mount and remove wheels, without being inserted into the hub. With the usual and unknown to the bicycle a closed ring fastening, it would be necessary to free them from the axis.

What are bike wheel holders? There are two types of dropouts.

Horizontal. This type is used on those bike models that do not have a rear derailer. Applicable to the rear wheel. This mount looks like an elongated wrench. The margin of distance allows you to change the position of the rear wheel and thus tension or loosen the chain.

Dropouts of this type can be found on singlespeeds or bicycles equipped with a planetary hub. Mounting features: holds the wheel well in the lowest position even with insufficient tightening of the nuts or eccentric. If it is installed in an intermediate position, tighten as much as possible.

The second type is vertical mounts. They are used on high-speed bicycles with gear shifting systems. They do not allow changing the position of the wheel and, accordingly, the chain tension. This work is undertaken by a special device. a tensioner located at the cassette.

Such a tension control system is much safer and more convenient than changing the position of the wheel. For single speed models, the chain must be changed when its length has already exceeded the maximum wear. Moving the wheel further from the carriage. short-term output.

make, wheel, speed, bike

By the type of manufacture, fasteners are divided into forged and stamped.

There are also removable holders that are bolted to the ends of the frame. A variety of them. roosters, hold the rear derailleurs. Features: made of aluminum alloy. The rooster can easily deform when struck. Due to the fact that it is attached separately, replacing it is simple and inconvenient.

What are bike dropouts?

Despite the outward simplicity, a bicycle frame includes a number of components, one of which are dropouts, or wheel seats. In general, the word is unusual, perhaps many cyclists do not even think about the fact that the ears for the front and rear wheels are so called.

What are amplifiers and what are they used for

Dropout amplifiers are special parts that are installed on bicycles with an additional drive, for example, a motor-wheel. The lugs are only designed for wheel speeds that are found at normal cycling speeds.

The loads created by the motor strongly affect the dropout, as a result of which it unbends, and the hub axis rotates due to the resulting gap. Such free movement of the axle contributes to the loss of torque, deterioration of dynamics and damage to the wheel and engine.

The reinforcement is a metal pad that is worn over the wheel mount. The closed cavity excludes the occurrence of a dropout breakdown by the axis at high speeds, i.e. limits its mobility in radial directions. This ensures an even distribution of engine torque.

  • durable and high quality material;
  • compactness;
  • precise fit to the hub axis;
  • secure fastening at the edges of the frame.

On sale you can find amplifiers for both the front and rear wheels. They can vary in size and cavity width. It is necessary to select parts of amplifiers taking into account the drive (front or rear wheel is connected to the motor), as well as the bushing models.

Dropouts are important components that determine the integrity of the bike as a whole. With active operation of the bike, it is important to pay attention to them: avoid uneven constrictions, correctly select bushings in accordance with current standards and provide protection when connecting an additional drive.