Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing
A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it’s time to remove it and inspect the hub.
The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, the parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the bearings of the hub, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.
The rear speed device is removed using a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is a short-lived affair, but it will take a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:
- The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
- The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
- With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
- We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.
Before disassembling the hub, you should slightly loosen the spoke tension. This can be done using a round key with knock-out holes for different diameters of the knitting needles. You need to loosen a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.
A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.
The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.
Replacing the bike camera
To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.
To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it begins to pull together, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.
You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.
Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.
On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. However, the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.
When to remove the rear wheel
It is unlikely that the idea of unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:
- noticeable damage to the rim;
- complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
- a flat tire or a burst tire;
- bulkhead bushing.
This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.
Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and disassembled, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.
I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two wrenches.
Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unrolled simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns eat up the corners of the nut due to a loose fit and sliding.
How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike
Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bicycle maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.
How to fix play in rear bicycle wheel
Experienced cyclists welcome self-repair of wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you will gain skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.
Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike
A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembling, replacing, lubricating or adjusting. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.
Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.
The cassette is put on the sleeve in the following order:
- main stars;
- single stars, small stars;
- tightening the cassette mechanism with a whip.
All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to spin the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!
Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are to a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.
REAR WHEEL BUSHING REPAIR
The most common problem that a bike’s rear hub can upset you is a loose or tight taper. If weakening is observed in the cone, then the wheel will begin to play strongly. In the second case, when the cone is tightened, the bicycle will move much more tightly than in normal mode, and the bearings may crackle. One way or another, you need to repair the rear wheel hub of the bike as soon as possible.
To eliminate the backlash or, on the contrary, tighten the cone, wrenches are needed, most often they use a 15 mm open-end cone wrench and a 17 mm open-end wrench. First, you need to start loosening the locknut, after which you need to proceed to loosening or tightening the flare nut to the required position.
Ideally, there should be no backlash. Finally, the lock nut must be screwed into place. If the cone is adjusted properly, the wheel will turn easily due to the force of gravity acting on the reflector or nipple.
It also happens that the rear axle of the hub can be broken or bent. The main cause of such a malfunction is usually poor quality parts. If this happens, you need to completely replace the hub axle with a new, better quality.
When replacing the axle, or when going through routine maintenance, or during the repair of the rear wheel hub of the bike, so that it is more convenient to dismantle the ratchet. If the essence of the repair is just a tightening or loosening of the cone, then this action is not necessary.
To avoid possible breakdowns, you need to periodically undergo maintenance. Its essence most often comes down to adjusting the cone and washing, cleaning the components and lubricating the bearings.
Less often. they change bearings, oil seals or washers. The cost of repairs can result in high costs if maintenance was rarely carried out and in general the bushing was not particularly monitored.
For example, it happens that the grooves in the bushing housing are eaten out by bearings, this can happen because the axle was bent or not lubricated enough. In this case, in order to repair the rear wheel of the bike, you will need to completely replace the hub body, or maybe the wheel itself.
Therefore, in order to avoid such a situation, before going on a long bike trip, you need to carry out maintenance of your bike, and if problems are found, then fix them in a timely manner.
GASKETING THE CAMERA
- First of all, you need to determine where the camera is pierced. To do this, the camera needs to be pumped up and examined carefully. A characteristic hiss will be heard at the puncture site. This place needs to be marked somehow.
- Then you need to free the chamber from air by pressing the nipple tongue.
- Your repair kit should have fine sandpaper, you need to take it and rub well the place where the tire pierced.
- Now you need to apply a thin layer of adhesive. This is done in such a way that the piece on which the glue is applied is slightly larger than the patch in size.
- Let the glue lie down for a couple of minutes, and then you should glue the patch from which the protective film has been removed in advance. Be careful not to get air bubbles under the patch.
- Now press the patch against the camera for as long as possible.
After gluing the inner tube, run your hand over the inside of the tire. It is not uncommon for the cause of the puncture to get stuck in the tire, and if so, then it must be removed. Don’t forget this moment.
WE DO REPAIR OF THE CAR
One of the most difficult parts of a bicycle is the bottom bracket. What to do if on the way she let you down, and there is no one to ask for help? Everything is simple, and after reading the text written below, using the minimum number of tools, you can easily disassemble and repair the bicycle carriage.
To disassemble the carriage assembly, the first step is to dismantle the stars and the connecting rod system. We will not dwell on this in detail, since it is not so difficult, and there is plenty of information on this topic on the net.
For pleasure bicycles and inexpensive mountaineers, a standard version of the carriage is installed. The order of its disassembly is indicated below:
- First of all, you need to unscrew the lock nut on the left using a special key;
- After that, we remove the carriage cup on the same side, using a 16 key for this (note that the right-hand thread is cut on the left side, and the left-hand thread is similarly made on the right);
- If necessary, you will also need to unscrew the cup on the right. To do this, you need to use a key for 32;
- Now we take out the carriage assembly. It is best to immediately flush and, accordingly, clean the carriage tube, first of all, the thread;
- Next, we are engaged in flushing the parts of the carriage assembly with gasoline or kerosene, along the way we look at whether the bearings, cups and axles are intact. If necessary, you need to replace worn parts;
- The next step is the same operations, only in reverse order: we screw the cup to the right to the very end;
- Now you need to thoroughly grease everything with grease (lithol), put bearings on the axle, and insert it into place;
- Next, you need to screw in the cup on the left, until the axis stops rotating. And now the cup needs to be gradually released, until nothing interferes with the rotation of the axis, and it will be smooth. It is worth remembering that backlash is not allowed;
- The lock nut should now be tightened;
- We make a final check of the rotation and the absence of backlash. If this is necessary, then you need to repeat paragraphs 8-9.
HOW TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL?
- If your bike has rim brakes, the first step is to unfasten them. This is done as follows: you need to heap the levers to which the pads are attached, and raise the part that secures the cable.
- Now you should turn the bike over with the saddle down, so that it finds its support on the handlebars and saddle. If your bike is equipped with a headlight or bike computer, you should be careful not to damage them.
- Next, we will loosen the eccentric of the wheel holding the wheel on the frame.
- Take a position behind the bike. Now you need to slightly unbend the lever in the rear gear selector, pull out the rear wheel, which should rise up without much difficulty.
- All that remains is to remove the chain from the wheel sprockets. Now the wheel is disconnected.
WE CARRY OUT REPAIR OF THE REAR WHEEL BUSHING, CARRIAGE AND PUNCHED WHEEL
To repair a bicycle with your own hands, you must have certain skills and knowledge. In this article, we will tell you how to repair the rear wheel hub of a bicycle, repair a bicycle carriage, and also tell you how to fix a puncture in the rear wheel of a bicycle on your own, and for novice cyclists, we will tell you what pressure in a bicycle tire should comply with the norm.
REAR WHEEL REPAIR: REMOVE THE PUNCH
To begin with, it should be said that repairing the rear wheel of a bicycle can also be associated with the elimination of the figure eight on the wheel or the filling of the wheel hub. However, since these are specific operations that require certain experience and tools, they deserve separate consideration, and will not be described in this text. Below we will tell you how to cope with a puncture of the rear wheel, since everyone can face this.
Before you start repairing a wheel, you need to dismantle it. The front wheel can be removed easily, but removing the rear wheel, for a beginner bike enthusiast, may not be such an easy task. Let’s take a closer look at how to dismantle the rear wheel.
REMOVING THE COVER
To gain access to the punctured tube, you will need to disassemble and remove the tire from the wheel rim. It takes some skill to do the sorting, so don’t be discouraged if you can’t do it right away. It happens as follows:
- The wheel that you removed must be placed upside down with asterisks.
- Now you need to remove the nipple cap.
- The next step is to cling to the edge of the tire with the help of the bead blade and turn out into the middle of the wheel.
- After fixing the bead vane, you need to take another one of the same, and perform the same actions along the circumference, thereby disassembling the wheel completely.
Since the tire has already been disassembled, it is already easily removed, and the process of removing the camera will not complicate you at all.
What to do?
If it’s just loosening the nuts, a wrench will help solve the problem. The compression between the radius nut (cone) and the locknut is loosened, the gap between the locknut and the bike frame is filled with an engraver or washer.
The front and rear wheel devices are different from each other, therefore, the stages of inspection of each of them must be said separately.
The front wheel is noisy
Having discovered a malfunction of the front wheel, you must immediately find out what the reason is and make repairs. When disassembling the front wheel, you need to take the following steps one by one:
- Remove the wheel from the bike frame.
- Disassemble the bushing in detail, clean it.
- Check for damage.
- If there are no malfunctions, re-grease, install separate bearings.
- Tighten the radial nut on one side of the axle, then tighten the lock nut.
- Bring axis back.
- Twist from the other end, so that the length of the nuts on the sides of the axis is equal.
- Secure bearings with normal tension locknuts.
- Make sure that the nuts are evenly tightened (work should be done with two thin open-end wrenches).
- Install the wheel in its original place, tighten it with nuts for clamping.
- Check if the wheel rotates smoothly, if there is any backlash.
- If a gap is found, remove it using a washer.
Who is guilty?
If your wheel began to wobble noticeably, most likely one of three things happened:
- the bike worked at its limit and was often subjected to heavy loads;
- poor quality parts were installed on the bike;
- parts have become unusable due to long-term operation.
At the micro level, erasure of any part could occur, leading to the formation of backlash. Rotational errors are usually caused by the following technical or mechanical problems:
- the wheel hub is erased;
- the cone wears out, which is why the bearing raceways become unusable;
- the notches of the locknut are erased, leading to too tight adhesion of the locknut with the cone.
Bicycle Tire. How to Put Rear Wheel Back On My Bicycle
Rear wheel defective
If the rear wheel of your bike is loose, you need to remove it and take the following steps:
- Disconnect the ratchet to gain access to the locknut and taper.
- Disassemble the bushing, wipe it, removing dirt, as well as the old grease.
- Assess bearing condition, especially raceways, view radius nuts.
- If a malfunction is found, replace the part with a good one.
- Return the bushing parts to their places, lay with fresh grease.
- Tighten locknuts, cones.
- Compress the cone, as well as the locknuts on the side where the ratchet is installed, and on the other end, adjust the bearing tension.
- Replace the ratchet.
- Check the ease of rotation (it should be smooth), fix.
- Install the wheel to the frame.
What to do if a bicycle wheel is wobbling
While riding, a cyclist often notices a strange shaking of one of the wheels. To understand why this is happening, you must immediately dismount and carefully examine the damage. To do this, you need to remove the wheel, take it by the axle and turn it first in one direction, then in the other direction. Taking thin wrenches, you need to adjust the clamping of the locknut and check for backlash.
The wobbly wheel problem has traditionally been associated with backlash. Backlash, or a gap, typically occurs between interconnected mechanical parts that rotate in close proximity to each other. In other words, one element of the system starts to move, while the other remains motionless. On a wheel, this happens due to the fact that its plane is displaced in relation to the hub or axis of rotation. In the latter case, the wheel shifts to one side or the other and begins to beat, moving in an eight.
What will happen if you do not receive treatment?
If the problem is triggered, the wheel hub will completely fail, rendering the wheel inoperative. Any cyclist can detect a backlash even without a specialist examination, therefore, for normal health, a good master’s look is quite enough for an iron horse, which provides for one technical inspection per year.