How to make a cameraless bike

Dangers

With any jumps, one should not forget about safety precautions. First of all, it is worth doing a trick only when in the end you can be 100% sure: the surface is not slippery, the height of the obstacle is clear, the trick has already been trained and has been performed correctly before. The most common problem is underestimating the height of an obstacle or the distance to it, which leads to the front wheel crashing into the edge, inertia is lost and the cyclist falls, and sometimes the wheel and camera are damaged.

Also, we must not forget about protection. When riding a bike, a helmet should always be worn, and better also a set of leg and hand protection.

make, bike

Pedals

Pay special attention to pedals. There is a very big difference between contact and ordinary. A contact jump is done with the whole body, the legs of the cyclist actually pull the bike behind them, and the frame is lifted very easily.

In the case of treadmills, things are a little more complicated. The jump is not made by body movement, but by the elastic response of the frame and tires after hitting the pedals. Many long-time practicing riders do not notice this, but it will be very difficult for a beginner to readjust. The main thing is to understand that we are waiting for a response from the design of the bike, and not jumping on it ourselves. After a few hours of focused training, there are usually no problems.

Bunny hop

Actually, a classic bunny hop trick. The jumping technique is absolutely similar to jumping over a curb, although it is performed more athletic and is divided into two tricks.

To start, select the front leg from which the execution will begin, from which we will perform all the elements.

  • Shift the weight back so that the center of mass (usually the butt) is behind the rear wheel.
  • Bend your knees and elbows, squeezing into the bike.
  • We pull the steering wheel with straight hands towards ourselves.
  • Shift weight forward, resting on the steering wheel.
  • Bend your knees, releasing the pedals from the load.

To jump higher, jump and pull higher, playing on the inertia and feel of the entire bike structure. Simple, but takes practice. All elements are performed smoothly, real professionals play with inertia very effectively, and spectacular jumps are performed.

Bicycles and features

The professional tricks listed earlier are performed, of course, on specialized bicycles. Usually this is BMX, in fact, many tricks are simply impossible to perform with shock absorbers.

Learn and train

Only training will help you to learn to jump on a bike. This is the key to good performance, because it must be dealt with separately, before real skating and real curbs.

Mountain bike

However, MTB remains the most popular, which is where we will most likely have to practice and learn. On a mountain bike, you should not master complex tricks. This is not only inconvenient, but downright dangerous.

The presence of a front, rear and rear shock absorber reduces the bike’s handling in flight, and the large weight and large dimensions make the whole structure very uncomfortable for the cyclist.

On a mountain bike, jumping is used to overcome obstacles (option 1), and you should start from this. Overcoming obstacles is a common front wheel jump, very rarely side hop. Proper preparation and understanding of the limitations of your bike is very important in preparation and execution.

BMX is fundamentally different from MTB in many ways. The main ones are:

  • small frame sizes. for good handling;
  • greater reliability to the load of both the frame and other components (steering wheel, pedals);
  • gears. allow you to control the bike in any situation.

A specialized bike was created for stunts, and it is much more convenient to perform them on it. In general, all the preparation recommendations from the next chapter are also suitable for BMX, but they are performed on them an order of magnitude faster and easier.

Using jumps

Actually, there are three areas of using cycling jumping:

  • To overcome small obstacles. The easiest option is found in any riding, we jump on small curbs, steps, irregularities so as not to load the bike and not to lose momentum.
  • Carrying a bike is a rather difficult element when you need to climb stairs or jump onto a parallel sidewalk.
  • Jump as a trick. It is performed out of the blue, and the trick has no purpose in terms of movement. There are a large number of options for tricks, and the jump itself is often an initiating or constituent element for complex tricks and performances.

Each of these jumps requires separate preparation. Fortunately, few bikers have these interests overlapping. The tricks are performed by very specific athletes interested in BMX, and the transfer is generally a trick more likely for videos, rather than for real use.

How to learn to jump a bike?

Not all cyclists think about jumping. For example, there is absolutely no need to jump for fans of fast road races. In reality, even when riding in the city that is most adapted for bikes, you have to overcome various obstacles. curbs, steps, inconvenient edges of paths and roads. To do this, you have to learn how to jump on a bike.

Historically, jumping has been a kurtosis, and a rare cyclist has performed like this. Over time, the discipline of cross-country appeared, and people performed quite difficult jumps in the framework of the competition. As a result, bicycle motocross and other stunt disciplines appeared. BMX, a trial, in which the jump became not a utilitarian element that accelerates the passage of the track, but an independent evaluated action.

Going Tubeless: How to Convert Existing Discs

Tubeless tires are extremely popular in the mountain bike world and are starting to appear on road bikes as well. The idea is pretty simple; get rid of the tube, install a special strip on the rim, and a suitable tire can be used with a liquid sealant to create a sealed fit. The lack of a tube reduces tire pressure without the risk of pinching flat surfaces (when the tube is sandwiched between the rim and the ground), which means a greater ground contact point, better traction, handling and absorption of bumps. And for the most part, punctures are usually stopped by the liquid sealant in the tire.

While many new mountain bike wheels come tubeless ready, you can actually convert existing wheels to tubeless systems. I recently switched to tubeless with the Orange Seal kit. This includes rim strips, valves, and sealant. Make sure you have rim strips that match the width of your 24mm rims. this is pretty standard for MTB wheels, but measure the inner width of the rims to be sure.

Place the strip in the center of the rim. It should extend to the sidewall of the rim on each side. I removed the existing rim tape before applying the tubeless tape, but I recommend leaving it on. There is no reason to get rid of it and many tubeless kits recommend using two layers of tape if you remove it.

Old tires, tubes and rim tape. Then piss off!

The Orange Seal system separates the valve from the tape. After the tape is installed, cut a small cut above the valve opening and push the valve. Depending on which type of valve you have used before, the opening size may vary (presta or schrader). I have heard of some people who had a separate valve pulled through a larger Schrader orifice, so a system in which the valve is integrated with the strip may be better in this situation (e.g. Stan’s No Tubes).

Time to install the tire. I switched to a lighter kit, but with a kit like Orange Seal you can use your existing tires. To simplify the initial sealing, coat the rim and bead with a mixture of soap and water. Until the sealant is properly distributed inside the tire, soapy water will provide a temporary seal.

Install one side of the tire, then apply sealant to the tire underneath. Slip the other bead over the rim and take the compressor. Compressed air is needed to inflate a tire fast enough to fill it. If you don’t have a presta fitting for your compressor, a schrader to presta adapter. This is a quick fix and convenient to have on hand anyway. A quick jet of compressed air should push the tire bead up against the rim and seal it. Once installed, you need to spread the sealant all over the tire to make sure it covers every inch of the joints. Turn the wheel, shake it, spin it; all that is needed!

Once you feel the sealant is evenly covering the inside of the tire, inflate to your desired psi and start rolling! Finished tire without tube:

While the sealant is quite good at keeping air out in the event of a puncture, a large hole or burst in the tire can be a problem. If you are walking on a trail, take a spare tubing with you just in case. If needed, it can be installed to get you home.

Fitting tubeless tires

Make sure your tires and rims are tubeless ready. Don’t worry, it should be written right on the label.!

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Remove the wheel from the bike.

Remove the tire and inner tubes from the rim. Check out our Fix-a-Flat guide for tips on removing wheels, tires and tubes.

If the rim is wrapped in a plastic rim strip that is not tubeless compatible, remove the rim strip.

Wrap the rim with tubeless tape.

  • Make sure the width of the band matches your rim. Road bike rims are usually narrower than mountain bike rims, and even mountain bike rims will vary from brand to brand. The tape should be wide enough to completely cover the spoke holes and fit snugly against the rim without air bubbles or gaps. If the strap is too wide, it can interfere with the adhesion of the tire bead to the rim and make it difficult to fit the tire correctly.
  • When you start applying the tape, make at least one spoke hole from the valve hole. Make sure the spoke hole is completely closed.
  • Place the tape on the rim and hold it with your thumb. Pull the tape tightly with the opposite hand and place the tape in the center of the rim. Constant belt tension ensures you don’t create air bubbles that could interfere with the tight seal inside the tire.
  • Wrap tape around the entire rim and cover the valve opening with one spoke hole.
  • Cut the tape with scissors and press the tape firmly around the entire rim to ensure a good fit.

Use a metal tool or a small Phillips screwdriver to poke the hole where the valve stem will be inserted. Be careful not to make this hole too big.

Insert the stem of the tubeless valve into the valve bore and secure with the plastic O-ring and washer supplied.

Place the tire on the rim. If the bar is directional, make sure it is correctly installed. Get more tips on how to change your tire by reading our Guide to Troubleshooting a Slope.

9.Add the recommended amount of tubeless sealant to the tire. This can be done in two different ways:

  • Before fully installing the tire on the rim, leave a hole on one side of the bead and pour the desired amount of sealant into the tire. Insert the remaining tire bead into the rim.
  • Slide the tire fully onto the rim. Using a valve core removal tool or pliers, remove the valve core from the tubeless valve. Using a tubeless injector syringe, inject the correct amount of sealant into the tire through the valve. This is a good solution if you have a tire that is very difficult to install.

After the tire is fully seated on the rim with the sealant inside, roll the tire on the ground to distribute the sealant. If possible, pull the tire bead up to the edge of the rim.

Inflate the tire! The best way to seal the tire. add air as quickly as possible. That is why using an air compressor. the best method. If you don’t have access to an air compressor, use an injection pump like the Giant Control Tank tubeless pump.

  • You will also need a traditional floor pump to use the Giant Control Tank. Bleed the test reservoir to the recommended pressure setting using a floor pump. Secure the inflator to the tubeless valve. Once secured, rotate the lever to release all the air into the tire at once.
  • Check the tire bead. If the bead fits properly on the rim, you should see line on the tire just above the rim. If this line enters the rim at all, the bead will not sit completely.
  • Use a floor pump to keep increasing the tire pressure until it is properly seated. When you sit down, you can remove the air to your desired tire pressure.

PRO TIP: Are you using an air compressor or tubeless inflation system and still having trouble inflating your tire? Try removing the valve core from the tubeless valve to allow air to enter the tire even faster than through the valve. Just be careful when removing the inflator nozzle from the valve, as all the air will rush back out of the tire! Be prepared to trap air with your finger and quickly replace the valve stem with your tool.

After the tire is inflated and the bead is in place, toss the tire on the ground. This will help distribute the sealant inside the tire.

Replace the wheel and ride the bike Riding the bike immediately after installing the tires without a tube will provide a good seal.

If your tires are already tubeless and you are just switching to new tires, ignore steps 5-7. Remove old sealant with an absorbent cloth and check the rim tape for damage before putting on a new tire.

Over time, the sealant inside your tires dries up and no longer protects you from annoying flat surfaces. In hot / dry climates, the sealant dries faster. Check the sealant level by shaking the wheel when removed from the bike. You should hear the sealant splashing inside. If you don’t hear anything, add more sealant! If not, check the level / top up sealant every 30 days.

How to make a “self-made tubeless”. tutorial from the Yeti team / Repair and configuration / Twentysix

After several such sad moments, many of the Yeti staff moved onto tubeless tires on their trail bikes. There are many options for self made tubeless on the internet, but this method we found works just fine. If you are looking for a cheap and easy way to forget about hiss, you should try this one.

To get started, you need the following: 24 or 26 chambers, depending on whether you are making a tubeless from 26 “or from 29” wheels, tires, sealant, scissors, air compressor

Start by removing your tires and tubes and make sure the flipper on your rim has no tears or holes in it.

Next, cut the tube along the seam opposite to the flap and stretch it around the rim making sure that the overhangs of the rim are equally covered by the camera on both sides.

Place one side of the tire at the top of the tube cutout on the rim, if you lubricate the tire cord with soapy water it will be easier to put on.

Heartily add sealant (any of your choice).

Now install the other side of the tire. The tire will be super tight, but try to avoid using erectors if possible. Invite your friend who has more strength, if he is not nearby, then be careful not to cut the camera with editing.

Make sure your tube is still on the rim equally evenly on both sides and stretch out any creases or wrinkles created during tire mounting.

Inflate your wheels with a compressor, maximum pressure is recommended to ensure correct tire settling on the rim. Spin the wheel and seal all, even the smallest, air leaks with sealant. 8. Release the tire pressure to the level you would normally ride and mount the wheel back onto your bike. 9. Use a razor blade to cut off excess chamber. By attaching the wheel to the bike, you can rotate it and keep the blade in one place to make it easier to make an accurate cut. Leave a small amount of tube protruding from the sides, this will allow for a stiffer seal and ensure that the tire does not slip during this step.

Even Yeti Boss Chris Conroy skated on this self-made tubeless all summer and was satisfied.

If it works for him it will work for you.!

Camera-less photography: Pierre Cordier

How to fit tubeless tires

Cleaning, lubricating and overhauling the steering column

Structurally, the steering column is simple, it includes a pair of bearings (in the upper and lower part). If they fall apart, then there is a crunch, the turns of the steering wheel may become harder than before.

For servicing, the unit must be disassembled:

  • the upper mount (anchor) is unscrewed, which presses the stem to the glass;
  • the steering wheel is removed;
  • spacer rings, anthers are removed;
  • the upper bearing will be accessible after that, it must be removed and washed in kerosene or WD;
  • we raise the frame and get access to the second bearing from the bottom, we also wash it.

The bearings can be worn out, the cage is damaged, the balls have spilled out. In such cases, it is better to replace them. Likewise, if there are traces of rust. In extreme cases, everything is washed and assembled in the reverse order to the next MOT, when the replacement is carried out.

Bulkhead and lubrication of the carriage assembly

The carriage undergoes significant pedaling stress, is located at the lowest point of the frame, therefore it is vulnerable to dirt and shock.

The frequency of maintenance largely depends on the type of carriage:

  • open. Equipped with cups that are screwed in on the thread. This design is more prone to contamination and often requires maintenance. The advantage is easy disassembly;
  • closed (capsule systems and cartridges). With the exception of rare models, they are not disassembled at all, but are minimally susceptible to contamination.

The first signs of the necessary maintenance will be extraneous noise, creaking and biting when pedaling

Slippage begins, and the ride becomes more and more effortless. If there is a squeak or the pedal slips in the upper position, the connecting rod wedge may be loose. Knocking and seizing. signal of damage to the bearing cage or balls.

To remove the carriage, an appropriate tool is required, it can vary greatly depending on the model and type of assembly:

  • squeezing the connecting rod;
  • slotted wrenches;
  • pullers;
  • open-end wrenches;
  • screwdriver.

To remove, turn the bike over, then unscrew the pedals and remove the cranks. Next, the lock washer, the left and right cups are unscrewed (counterclockwise and along its course, respectively). You should be careful as there is a high risk of balls falling out at this stage. Carriages are removed to the left.

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Disassembled components show wear

The bearings are changed if necessary, all fasteners and seats need to be washed, WD-40 is suitable for this. Open bearings are wiped from the old grease, installed (if alive) in place and lubricated with fresh fuel and lubricants, for this Litol-24 or similar thick greases are suitable.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order, but before installing the connecting rods, adjustment is necessary:

  • loosen the left cup so that the axis rotates freely;
  • tighten the lock washer until it stops;
  • tighten or loosen the cup so that there are no wedges when rotating the axis.

Cleaning the star and chain system

Even if the chain is covered with a cover, it is one of the most vulnerable parts of the bike. It accumulates dirt, moisture, abrasive from the road, which are carried by the stars.

  • when driving, this causes increased friction;
  • an extraneous creak appears;
  • moving parts grind off faster;
  • beating appears;
  • the chain teeth become thinner;
  • backlash increases;
  • links stretch faster.

As a result, the resource of the mechanism and its components is significantly reduced.

The unit needs maintenance approximately every 100 km, it can be carried out more often if you periodically go to the dirt road or respect the off-road

The work must be carried out in several stages:

  • cleaning;
  • drying;
  • grease.

The chain and stars must be washed from dirt and adhering grease, remove abrasive from moving areas, metal particles from gaps. Lumps of dirt can be easily washed off with rags and water, the stars are cleaned with a brush, pressed dirt can be removed from the gaps of the ratchet, for example, with a screwdriver. Next, you will also need a brush for more detailed cleaning. The cassette is easier to clean, just disassemble it.

We, in our bicycle repair shop, St. Petersburg. we always start with flushing, as this is one of the most important parts of basic maintenance.

Two methods are used to flush the chain: without removing and with dismantling.

Checking spoke tension and correcting eights

The needles can be of various designs from material and shape to caliber (1.5-2.34 mm). The loads on these elements appear immediately, as soon as the rider sits on the saddle, it increases significantly when riding on difficult terrain, jumps, sharp braking.

As a result, their deformations gradually occur, which can lead to wheel defects:

  • figure eight. lateral curvature;
  • ellipse. radial;
  • umbrella. offset relative to the sleeve.

Only the first defect can be corrected relatively easily and without special equipment. Visually, it looks like a wheel swinging in a horizontal plane when driving. This leads to the fact that it is difficult to set the brakes, the wheel behaves unstable, beats appear, with a strong curvature, rolling becomes impossible.

Adjustment involves tightening or loosening the spokes, it is important to note that pulling the right spokes causes the rim to move in the same direction and vice versa.

Gradually the spokes are stretched, therefore, they need to be changed periodically, otherwise the connection of the rim and bushing will lose rigidity.

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  • spoke key. The size must be selected in accordance with the size of the knitting needles;
  • needle tension meter;
  • screwdrivers;
  • the keys.

In parallel with the adjustment, it is worth checking the tension force. For each model and variant of the spokes, there is a certain value, it is lower on the front wheels than at the rear.

For work, it is convenient to use a special balancing machine, if it is not there, it is enough to turn the bike upside down

The tension is checked by swinging the rim to the sides, while free play appears, its maximum value should not be more than 2 mm. The needles, which have a higher indicator, need to be marked (with electrical tape, chalk).

  • with chalk on the rim, you need to mark the area where the deviation appeared;
  • the spoke that is closest to the center of the marked area is weakened;
  • knitting needles in the area of ​​eight are weakened;
  • the opposite are being pulled up;
  • from the center to the edges of the defect, the tension is gradually weakened.

The first attempt will take a lot of time, you need to understand the principle and gain experience.

How to do bike maintenance: a step-by-step guide

Bicycle technical inspection is one of the most important stages of maintenance, which allows you to achieve long-term operation of the components.

It can be divided into several main options for work:

  • cleaning;
  • broach;
  • inspection for wear (with replacement of parts);
  • grease.

Absolutely all parts of the bike that are mobile need periodic maintenance:

  • system (chain, cassettes with stars);
  • wheel hubs;
  • carriage;
  • knitting needles;
  • brakes;
  • steering column;
  • switches;
  • tires.

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Consider the features of maintenance for each element separately.

Without removing

In the first case, you can use a special machine, it includes several hard brushes installed in a plastic case. A cleaning liquid is poured into the body, usually these are caustic solutions, like white spirit or B-70 gasoline (Pedro’s Bye Grease can be distinguished from specialized products). Then the pedals make several turns until the liquid becomes dirty. After that, it must be drained and replaced with a fresh one, and so on until the product remains clean after scrolling the pedals.

Magnets can significantly improve the quality of the machine, they are installed next to the brushes.

When cleaning in such a modified system, magnets remove metal chips from the joints of the cheeks of the links with the axles

Many cyclists simply blow through the links using aerosols, for these tasks the following is suitable:

  • WD-40;
  • carburetor cleaner like ABRO CARBCHOKE CLEANER;
  • Liqui Moly Schnell Reiniger degreaser and similar substances;
  • detergent for cars Turtle Wax Engine Cleaner and analogues.

Another convenient method is a pressure washer, you can use your own or go to the nearest station. Pressurized water flushes dirt out of the most difficult to access crevices. However, in this case, you need to take care of the bushings, for this, on the front cassette, the chain must be switched to a large sprocket, and at the rear to a smaller one.

Dismantling

In this case, the chain must be removed and placed in a container with solvent. Dismantling is carried out by means of a detachable link or by extrusion of the axle using a special hand press.

  • pour solvent into the bottle so that the chain is completely immersed in it;
  • shake;
  • drain;
  • repeat the procedure several times;
  • pour water with detergent;
  • shake;
  • dry.

Setting the speed switches

The first signs of a derailleur malfunction are the chain jumping over the star. Shifts can be brooding, inaccurate, making it difficult to work with speeds on the go, distracting and infuriating.

Many cheap switches generally do not hold the setting well, to the point that a cheap mechanism will need to be calibrated almost after every trip.

An important element of the rear derailleur is the cock, that is, a metal bracket that protects the frame from damage by taking the load from the impact on itself. Of course, in such conditions, the element often breaks. The market offers hundreds of options for roosters, so selection can be difficult, in extreme cases, you can find services for milling a bracket according to a sample (for this, it is better not to throw out a broken rooster).

To replace the cock, unscrew the switch screw on it and remove it. Then the bolt fixing the bracket is unscrewed.

If he just bent while riding and there is nothing to replace, you can try to straighten:

  • grab the base of the switch;
  • pull it back to its original position, without jerking;
  • if possible, remove and warm;
  • after that it is convenient to use a vice.

Since most males are made of aluminum or silumin, they are very brittle.

Both derailleurs use a wire rope that runs through the shirts. The service of these elements is identical to the cables and channels of the brake system.

The following algorithm is used to adjust the rear derailleur:

  • move the chain to a small star;
  • release the cable by unscrewing the fixing screw;
  • adjust the screw marked H with a screwdriver until the small star is on the same mowing line with the switch foot;
  • pull the cable by hand and fix it with a screw, after that you need to check that the switch moves exactly one star when the shifter lever is shifted by one gear. If this does not happen, it is better to tighten the cable still;
  • then we shift the chain to the large star of the cassette / ratchet;
  • use the L screw to set the foot on one line with a larger star. If this is not done, the derailleur can get caught in the spokes of the wheel, it will be damaged and the wheel will suffer as well.

The front derailleur adjustment is similar:

  • set the chain to a smaller star and release the cable;
  • using the screw L, set the frame so that the chain is centered between the walls of the switch bracket. It is necessary to achieve a position in which the chain will not touch them;
  • we tighten the cable by hand and fix it with a screw;
  • using the rear derailleur, we shift the chain to the small sprocket, and on the front sprockets we set it to the middle;
  • if in this position the chain rubs along the frame, increase the tension with the drum of the front derailleur shifter. It is necessary to achieve a middle position so that there are no touches;
  • we shift the chain to a large star, if there are touches of the frame, we expose it with the screw H.

Quirogas or how to pump up a tubeless bicycle tire in the field.

Cyclists who use tubeless tires know very well what kind of hemorrhoids to place a tubeless tire on a rim, especially somewhere in a field or at a training camp in Turkey, far from civilization. Ideally, you need a compressor with a receiver that can provide a good air pressure, or a good floor pump. But with a pump, there are also dances with a tambourine, if the sidewall of the tire does not fit snugly to the rim. In such a situation, shaving gel saved me. I poured the gel abundantly into the gap between the rim and the tire, and after that it turned out to pump the tire with a floor pump. But in my opinion, this is not quite the right decision because: Firstly: you need a floor pump gel Secondly: the gel costs money, and its consumption is not small Third: I pour sealant into the tubeless and it is not known how much gel will be inside the tire and why will mix the gel and sealant. Maybe this poop in the wheel is the result of mixing sealant and shaving gel.?

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But what if after inflating the tire there is a hole in it and the sealant cannot seal it? We’ll have to remove the tire again, seal the hole, pour the gel again, pump it up. In general, at home it was not a very comfortable activity for me, although I like to tinker with a bike.

The decision was born spontaneously. My friend Dmitry called me and told me that as a receiver you can use a two liter bottle of carbonated water, it easily holds up to 7 atmospheres and it was necessary to come up with a device so that you could pump it up with a pump, and then pump the tire with air from her. Together, the scheme was born, and then it was implemented. Personally, I doubted its performance a little, but it worked! Diman quickly scooped it up, but it turned out a little clumsy. The first pancake is lumpy, so to speak Looking at the structure, for some reason an association arose in my head.

Then Diman modified the device and was born

After testing it on my wheels and making sure that the device is suitable, I decided to improve it a little, and this is what I got.

Air, which is pumped into a two-liter bottle by a pump to a pressure of 4 atmospheres, is enough to put a tire on both 26 and 29 inch wheels on the rim. The trick in the design is that for training camps, for example, in Turkey or for a race, where you may have to change tires, you do not need to take a large receiver with you (the suitcase or trunk is already packed with junk to the eyeballs). You only need to take with you a small-sized structure, weighing 108 grams.

To record a video, a 1 liter bottle of mineral water with a pressure of 7.5 atmospheres was used as a receiver. The edges of the tire are wet with water. Rocket Ron 26 ″ 2.1 Tire.

This entry was written by Alexander, 06/08/2015 at 17:07, and is posted under the category Cycling, News. Follow the RSS 2.0 feed for replies to this entry. You can either place a backlink on your site.

Fork

Most modern mountain bikes are equipped with shock absorbers. Shock absorbers. to absorb vibration when driving on uneven surfaces. Shock absorbers also eat up speed, rocking you back and forth with the bike. This is especially noticeable with active pedaling.

In addition to shock absorbers, modern bicycles also have a shock absorber lock. With its help, with one movement of your finger, the fork can be turned into a rigid fork (rigid, without a shock absorber). That is, the shock absorber will remain on board, but it will already be fixed (it will not swing as the bike moves). This will not reduce the weight of the forks (rigid. not shock-absorbing: they weigh very little), but it will also not eat up kinetic energy when pedaling hard.

Shock absorber lock. The weight of the fork will not decrease, but at the right time will make it rigid

Tires (tires)

The worst option for driving on asphalt is tires with a complex pattern on the tread and too large studs. They are designed for rough terrain, mud and sand (for better traction). They are usually put on mountain bikes. You will have to replace these. with tires without all of the above (tires with a minimal pattern / without it and without studs at all. are called slicks).

This type of tire has minimal rolling resistance. This is the easiest way to make your bike go faster. With this, it will almost turn into a sports car.

How to make a bike faster. change it into less toothy rubber

Don’t brake: 5 ways to make your bike faster

Even an old and dilapidated mountain bike can be made faster. For this, you do not even need imagination, just our advice.

After buying a mountain bike, many owners become dissatisfied with its speed. Indeed: a mountain bike. for the fastest, but also a road bike. is an expensive thing. How to be? Cheer up: a mountain bike can be done faster. We will carry out a deep modernization: we will replace something, we will adjust something.

Transmission

Largest chainring. On mountain bikes, it usually has 42 or 44 teeth. You need to replace it with a 48-tooth star. Do not be afraid: you may not need to change along with the cranks (the tube-shaped parts that connect the pedals to the chainrings). Since most modern bicycles have a large chainring that is detachable, not molded in one piece with the cranks.

How to make your bike faster. replace the larger chainring with one with more teeth

Contact pedals

Contact pedals are a mechanism that allows you to mechanically fix the cyclist’s foot on the pedal, thereby connecting the cyclist’s shoes and the bicycle pedal into a single whole structure. Thus, full contact of the cyclist with the bicycle drive is ensured. And you can also make the bike faster this way. After all, now the effort will be exerted not only when pressing the pedal, but also when lifting the leg up.

Contact pedals increase the cyclist’s pedaling efficiency by an average of 10-20%. But such a system costs money. Sometimes considerable.

Clip-on pedal with a mechanism built into the bicycle shoe

Aerodynamics

Land below. This will reduce the area of ​​resistance to oncoming air and wind.

  • Pay attention to the seating position of road cyclists: it is almost horizontal.

A horizontal landing can be achieved with a mountain bike. To do this, raise the saddle higher and move it back (if the mechanism allows). At the same time, replace the stem with a longer stem and lower the handlebar lower.

  • Handlebar stem. the part that connects the handlebars to the bike fork. Serves for fixing the handlebars and adjusting the fit of the cyclist.

Better to take a carbon stem: it’s lighter. But more expensive. If, due to a fork or financial situation, it is not possible to replace the stem, simply lower the handlebars lower. Paired with a high-lift saddle, this will also improve your aerodynamic performance.

Mountain bike handlebars are often very wide. This also prevents the bike from being faster. Tip: Trim the handlebars to the width of your shoulders. It could even be a little shorter.

The handlebars on road bikes are narrow and light. This is another important factor that has a positive effect on the speed and aerodynamics of the bike.

Epilogue

The tips above will help you make your bike faster. But remember: not only the bike plays an important role in speed, but also the physical fitness of the cyclist. Regular exercise and weight control will help you achieve this.

For more information on how to train a cyclist, read here and see the following video:

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Assembling the correct tubeless bicycle wheel

Let’s figure out under what conditions it is possible to make tubeless bicycle wheels?

  • Most importantly, the tubeless tire must be supported by the rim. But! Tubeless can be done on a regular rim, only the tire will most likely slip when riding. The main difference between the rim adapted to the tubeless mode is the locks on the sides (you can clearly see it in the picture below). The beads of the tire are tightly placed in these locks and do not allow it to be disassembled while driving under loads.
  • Tires must also be tubeless capable. This is usually indicated by the manufacturer, marking it as TubeLess, TR or TLR. If it is indicated that tubeless use is impossible (or generally unknown), then you can still try to follow all the instructions below, and suddenly you are lucky and succeed.But this is at your own peril and risk.

So, suppose there are tubeless rims, there are tires adapted for tubeless use. What else is needed?

  • Rim adhesive tape. It is needed to seal the rim. Should be 2-4mm wider than the rim width.
  • Tubeless nipples. They will need to be screwed onto the rims. Mostly there are FV / AV or Presta / Schrader. FV or Presta. bicycle nipple, may not be supported by a regular pump. AV or Schrader. automotive nipple, supported by almost all pumps. Therefore, if you are not sure about your pump, then take the car version of the nipples, then pump it to your love.
  • Sealant. Special slurry, which, firstly, will well seal the tire on the rim and will not poison anywhere, and secondly, in case of punctures, it will immediately patch itself.
  • Compressor or pump with booster. If there is none, then we will try to torment ourselves with an ordinary pump, but then it must be of a large volume.

How to properly assemble a tubeless bicycle wheel?

That’s all. The assembly procedure for a tubeless bike is not easy, but it’s worth it. Better rolling, lighter wheel, self-sealing when punctured.

Leave a comment, do you use cameras or switched to tubeless What are your experiences and impressions? Share the article on social media. networks!