Replacing rim brake pads on a bicycle
Over time, rim pads (like any other bike part) fail. And any self-respecting bike enthusiast, not to mention professionals, should be able to replace them. over, this is easy to do with v-brakes. The main thing is to do everything slowly, clearly observing the technological stages in the required sequence:
- Open the brake. bring its levers together and remove the iron tip of the “shirt” from the groove formed (the cable comes out of it).
- Remove old pads, remembering in which sequence the fasteners were used.
- Install new pads, sequentially collecting all mounting shims and washers.
It’s even easier when it comes to cartridge pads! It is only necessary to replace the rubber gaskets. remove the locking pin, remove the old one and put a new gasket, and then secure it with the same (or new) split pin.
Care must be taken when changing v-brake pads as they can be left or right (the markings are directly on the pads). Then in no case can they be confused.
In addition, it is not enough just to change the pads, you also need to adjust them. And before that, check the brake cable for wear or breakage. He must be absolutely intact and easily move around in a “shirt”. It is also necessary to check the shape of the wheels so that there are no “eights”.
The brake pads must be properly pressed against the wheel rim. And the pressure can be adjusted (configured) using the shoe fasteners. It is not difficult to get the desired angle if you hold down the brake and loosen the nut on each of the pads.
bicycle brake lever spring replacement
During the tuning process, it is also necessary to ensure that the brake levers come together equally. Position adjustment is possible with a Phillips spring tension screw. If the lever barely moves, then the screw should be tightened, and when the lever moves too easily, unscrew.
A bicycle disc brake is a combination of a steel disc (rotor) located on a hub with a caliper. a device that actually clamps the disc with the brake pads. From the brake lever on the handlebar, the force is transmitted to the brake by a cable (mechanical disc brake type) or through a hydraulic line (hydraulic disc brakes).
Bicycle disc brakes also have their advantages. They:
- less clogging when driving;
- can work without problems while driving on snow or mud;
- as smoothly as possible (in contrast to rims) adjust the braking force;
- do not react to slightly curved wheel geometry (small “eights” are not a hindrance for them);
- do not affect the wear of the rim;
- and do not require expensive maintenance.
Many bicycle disc brakes have only one moveable brake pad. The second is fixed statically relative to the frame structure. This greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of the caliper. But, however, as the wear and tear, the cyclist will have to tighten the brake pad, which is stationary.
Brake discs are standard sizes. These are 140, 160, 180, 185, 203 or 220 millimeters.
The mechanical braking system is very widespread.
It has the following features:
- The force from the handle is transmitted by means of a cable. This element is made using stainless steel, which is characterized by increased resistance to high humidity.
- From time to time, the cable should be pulled up. This is due to the fact that natural stretching of the metal occurs under the influence of the applied force.
- The brake pads are located in the caliper. A similar assembly is also made of stainless steel.
- A return spring is installed, which returns the block to the reverse position.
Adjustment is carried out by twisting the cable. The braking surface must be clean, otherwise braking performance will be reduced.
How to change the brakes on a bike
The design of the bicycle has been improved over a long period. Particular attention was paid to the creation of a braking system, which must be reliable and effective in use.
Disc brakes are a common design with a combination of control levers, drive and brake pads. Timely maintenance can significantly extend the operating life of the brake system, eliminate the likelihood of its damage.
Instructions for setting up the V-brake system. in the video review:
Advantages and Disadvantages of Disc Brakes
Many consider disc brakes to be a progressive step in the bicycle industry. The design is similar to that installed on a car. The use of discs eliminates the likelihood of rim wear.
Other benefits include the following:
- The eight of the rim does not affect the efficiency of the braking system.
- It is possible to use the system in harsh conditions.
- Clear modulation.
- Longer service life.
- Disc design does a good job with a lot of dirt.
- Modulation stable, no periodic maintenance required.
In many cases, the structure can last for several seasons, but even with careful treatment and inactive riding, maintenance will be required.
The disadvantages of the design include the following:
- The entire system and individual components are expensive.
- The design cannot be called universal in application.
- Most of the options are not DIY repair.
- Heavy enough weight.
When do you need to change disc brake pads??
It is important to choose the right moment when you need to replace the pads.
Among the features, we note the following:
- Most versions can last no more than 15 thousand kilometers.
- Expensive structures serve about 30 thousand kilometers due to the use of special alloys.
The above information defines what is important to keep track of mileage.
The wear rate depends on the following points:
- Riding style. Difficult ascents and descents negatively affect the life of the braking system.
- External influence. Shocks and other impacts can cause defects that reduce the service life.
- Improper adjustment of the device also negatively affects the condition of the pads.
We set the levers symmetrically
In order for the left and right pads to wear evenly, they must be at the same distance from the rim. Adjustable by spring tension on the brake levers. To equalize the force that returns the left and right brake levers to their original position, use the adjusting bolts located at the base of the levers.
By twisting the bolt clockwise, we tighten the spring, unscrewing it. we loosen it. By pressing and releasing the brake, we check the uniformity of the removal of the pads from the rim. Tighten the bolts on the left and right sides until the pads move the same distance when the brake lever is released.
Setting rim brakes using the example of V-brake
When set up correctly, v-brakes will perform just as well, and some models even better than disc brakes! The design features of the v-brakes allow adjusting the pads in almost any plane, but this is not possible with caliper rim brakes. The price of rim brakes is significantly less than that of disc brakes, they weigh less and are easier to adjust than disc brakes.
General cable characteristics
The brake cable for a bicycle is made of wear-resistant thin steel or Teflon threads, evenly woven and covered with a flexible polymer material. Teflon lubricants are used for protection.
The most reliable version of the brake cable is made of stainless steel. Constant use of the bike provokes contamination of the outer casing.
Over time, the strength of each core decreases: separate frayed areas are formed that are prone to tearing, delamination and bending.
The cable sheath (braid) is produced in several modifications:
Twisted braid. consists of several pairs of insulated conductors with the addition of metal, each of them is covered with protective plastic, the inner compartment is treated with a lubricant to reduce the amount of friction.
The price category of these braids is low, rarely goes on sale.
SIS braid. spiral braid, instead of thin metal threads, metal sheets are screwed into the spring, the inner surface is treated with Teflon grease.
This type of braid is the most common on the market today and is used on brake and speed cables.
SIS-SP. modernization of a modern rope, it is a parallel threads covered with polymer layers.
Unlike other types, they do not change the length of the wire, and balance the tension. The interior is lubricated with silicone fluid.
The braid is considered the most reliable, due to a number of factors, the braking system works most accurately.
How to assemble a handbrake on a kid’s bike
How to install and adjust the V-brake yourself
- Attach the levers to the bike frame.
- Insert the drive cable into the brake lever.
- Install the handle on the steering wheel, insert the cable into the grooves on the frame (if any).
- Connect the cable with the levers and put the spring.
After installation, you will definitely need to adjust the brakes.
The accuracy of the mechanism depends largely on its settings. So, even an expensive system will not work well without proper adjustment, and conversely, a mid-range V-brake can outperform a disc brake in terms of efficiency. What needs to be done to adjust the brakes?
Adjust the cable tension. After adjusting, the brake should instantly respond to the squeeze of the handle and rebound when it is released. If the pads do not move away from the rims, this indicates insufficient tension. On the overtightened cable, the handle will be hard to press, and the sheath may burst.
The tension is adjusted with a bolt on the side of the levers. The setup looks like this:
- Reset Springs.
- Loosen the cable fixing bolt.
- Adjust the tension so that in the fully clamped position, the distance from the handle to the handlebar corresponds to the thickness of the finger.
If damage is noticed on the cable sheath, it is recommended to immediately install a new set.
Clearance adjustment. The optimal distance is 2. 3 mm from the edge of the pad to the rim. Determination of brake pad wear: cannot be used when the diverter grooves are completely erased (the whole surface is flat).
How do I fit new pads? The location relative to the rim affects the size of the contact area of the pads with it, the braking force and the life of the material. For brake pads with soft rubber surfaces, install them with the leading edge closer to the rim. Brake pads made of rigid material are placed strictly parallel to the surface of rotation of the wheel.
If your bike has cartridge pads, you only need to change the pads. Their position is set with a cotter pin; before removing the old surface, it is removed from the body. Similarly, in the reverse order, insert a new pad and fix it with a cotter pin.
Adjustment of the position and displacement of the shoe housings are carried out by means of a bolt and washers. For accurate fixation, you need to squeeze the brake and set the position of the pads strictly on the surface of the rim.
The last step will be to test the operation of the system in practice, that is, in real driving conditions. As a rule, the V-brake setting is obtained immediately. However, if braking is delayed or the handle does not fully return to its original position, the brakes must be readjusted.
Unpacking and Installing Basic Bicycle Parts
This is what the bike box looks like when it comes from the factory. All bicycles usually have a crankset, chain, rear and front derailleurs, rear wheel, brakes and steering column already installed.
Separately packed steering wheel, seat, front wheel, pedals, reflectors and other small things.
A number of tools are required to assemble the setup:
- hexagons (4, 5, 6 mm), or better a set,
- wrench 15 (for tightening the pedals),
- key for 10,
- Phillips screwdriver,
- pliers (for crimping the cable),
- wire cutters (for cutting the cable).
We take the bike out of the box. We cut off all plastic clamps with nippers or powerful scissors and remove the packaging. Be careful. it is easy to damage the paintwork of the frame at this stage.
First, attach the saddle to the seatpost. To do this, use a 6mm hexagon to unscrew the mount on the seatpost, install it in the grooves of the saddle frame, close it with a bracket on top and tighten it. This clever design also allows for back and forth movement and tilt adjustment. Now it is enough just to tighten the bolt, and it will be more convenient to make the settings on the assembled bike.
We fix the reflector as close as possible to the saddle.
We lower the entire structure into the seat tube to the end and secure it with an eccentric clamp. If it closes too easily, then open it to the end, turn the tightening wheel and try to close it again. If it does not close, on the contrary, weaken.
Next, we are engaged in the removal of the steering wheel and the steering wheel. On different bicycles it happens differently: either the stem is already attached to the handlebars, or not. In any case, the stem is set first. When installing the stem and handlebars, pay attention to the derailleur and brake cables. they should not be tangled. Pay attention to the vertical marks on the stem. this is the maximum possible lift.
There is an important bolt underneath this little plug! With the help of a 5 or 6 hexagon, the stem is fixed in the steering column, and the steering wheel is adjustable in height.
Let’s take care of the front wheel. First you need to correctly install the eccentric (it is in a box with small things). The photo shows the correct position of all elements. Pay attention to the springs. they are located with a narrow part inward, i.e. to the wheel.
Remove the plug and spring from one side of the eccentric (from the one where there is no lever) and insert the axle into the front wheel hub. The question may arise, which side to insert it? Just look at which side it is mounted on the rear wheel (usually on the left) and follow the analogy.
Next, insert the wheel into the fork. It is necessary to “unfasten” the front brake of the bicycle in advance (in the case of rim brakes) or remove the rubber band from it (usually in the original packaging it is secured with an elastic band or a tie).
The easiest way to tighten the eccentric is to approach the front of the bike. In this case, you can track if the wheel is centered. Tightening is done as follows: turn the wheel clockwise to the left and try to close the lever. If it closes very easily, fold it back and turn the wheel again until the eccentric closes with force. You don’t need to overdo it, otherwise you can break the eccentric!
Now you can pump up the wheels. Recommended pressures are always printed on tires in psi and bar. Bar = atmosphere. Please note: the pressure in the bicycle wheels must be 3 atmospheres and higher. 3.5 is the best option. 2.2 like cars is no good. During operation, periodically check the pressure in the wheels. this is a guarantee of the absence of “eights”.
Install the pedals. The photo shows that each pedal is labeled as L or R. Sometimes stickers are also molded. L (Left). left, R (Right). right. Be careful: the pedals have different threads! Both pedals are twisted “in motion” of the bike, i.e. left to left (counterclockwise) and right to right (clockwise).
First, we twist them with our hands, and then we tighten them with a key by 15.
If the chain is not in place, it can easily be returned there. To do this, push the foot of the rear derailleur and the chain is weakened. Now you can simply grab it with your hand and put it on one of the front stars.
Installation and adjustment of the front brake; adjustment of both brakes
Now let’s start installing the front brake. Find a curved tube like this in the box. You need to thread the front brake cable into it so that the wide part is at the top, and the narrow tip at the bottom is closer to the brake levers (on the next photo).
We do it as in the photo. The elastic must be put on before you screw on the cable. An elastic band is needed to protect the cable from dirt.
Now we loosen the bolt and put the cable there.
We squeeze the levers so that 2-3 mm remain from the pads to the rim. and tighten the bolt (without fanaticism, otherwise the cable will start “pushing”).
We leave a small part of the cable (5-7 cm.), Cut the rest with nippers (nippers are needed very good, otherwise the cable will fluff at the end). Next, put on the tip and clamp it with pliers. If you don’t have the right tools at hand, do this step later. But do not postpone for long. the cable may “fluff” and you will have to change it.
Further, the cable can be wound by the lever so that it does not dangle.
Now you need to adjust the brakes. It would be good to devote a separate article to such a difficult question, but now I will try to briefly describe the adjustment process.
The precise work of the brakes consists of many nuances. First, spin the wheel (having previously inflated to the recommended pressure). is there an eight? If so, then it needs to be corrected. It is better for an experienced craftsman to do this or look for an article on eliminating eights on the Internet. If everything is in order, we will continue to work.
When assembled, the brake pads must be at equal distances from the rim. This is achieved by tensioning the cable. you can loosen the bolt with which you secured the cable and tighten it tighter. And then there is the “lamb”. it is right next to the brake lever. they can also tighten or loosen the cable. Never unscrew it all the way! The pads themselves must be parallel to the rim. Check if this is so. If not, you need to loosen the bolt that secures them and adjust their position (see photo). You can, for example, hold down the brake (then the pads will press parallel to the rim) and immediately tighten the bolts.
Now we press the brake lever and see how the brake levers come together. And they must converge at the same time! Look at the video.
If, when you press the brake lever, one lever presses the shoe faster than the other, you need to make the adjustment with special screws (see photo). The adjustment is made as follows: choose the lever where the block is faster and stronger pressed against the rim and the screw on this side tighten clockwise by one or half a turn. Click and see if the situation changes. Usually, the pads begin to press against the rim at the same time after adjustment with one screw. If not, then turn the screw on the other lever (where the block is farther from the rim) turn counterclockwise by one. half a turn. Continue the described steps until you achieve the result, as in the video. The same procedure must be done with the rear brake.
We continue cycling. This time we will do something more serious than dismantling the wheels. installing a v-brake (a modern hand bicycle brake) on an old Soviet bicycle fork. The same Kama “fig knows what year” acts as a test sample, which, of course, does not provide for fastening on the fork.
The easiest option is to weld two nuts. But if there is no welding machine, then I will tell you how to make simple fasteners without injuring the fork! Before starting work, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of v-brakes on a live sample. You cannot drill a plug!
1) We buy v-brake brakes. Not cheap Chinese meat, but an average level with a minimum of nuts.
This is how a half of a normal V-break looks like (if it is in Russian). The brake is universal, there is enough height to deliver a classic low wing. I will not say about any plastic nonsense.
2) The brakes can be fixed on a metal horseshoe, and then clamped on the fork (as is the case with modern forks), or simulate welded blanks. Let’s dwell on the second option and make a clamp from duralumin plates.
Dural or duralumin is a soft alloy, and this is its advantage, because the clamp will be easy to pull off, and it will repeat the entire contour of the fork strut, which means it will sit firmly and will not remember it. By the way, the duralumin is cut without any problems with scissors for metal, the grinder is not required.
3) We drill a strip of duralumin in three places, try it on a fork and cut it off:
You should not thread a screw (as in the picture), but a screw with a turnkey head so that the tapering walls of the strip clamp it.
The length of the bolt should be taken taking into account the depth of the brake, a few washers and nuts. Thickness does not really matter, you can get it by heat shrinkage.
In the final form, the clip for one fork post looks like this:
Here, while making the clamp, I try on the brake fit:
There is also such a moment: there is a return spring on the brake half. For her, you can immediately figure out the fixation on the clamp, but I did not bother and pulled it back with a clamp on the fork.
4) Turn the bike over and start dancing with the positioning of the clamp:
I marked the height with electrical tape. I put the clamps in the opposite direction, as on steep folds =). It is necessary to pull the nuts well in order to exclude the slightest backlash. As I wrote above, the duralumin is superbly pulled together.
5) We mount the cable. The rubber grip on the handlebars of a Soviet bicycle is removed with a thin screwdriver and such and such a mother. It is not necessary to pour water:
You just need to pierce in a circle to form air blockages and turn it well.
We put the brake lever, put the rubber band back on (you can drip oil for the chain on the steering wheel (then wipe it slightly with a rag) so that the handle goes back more easily), if it turns, you can put it on a selikon (not required):
We fix the cable on the brake halves, adjust the pads, debug:
So that is all. Next. test drive.
The attentive reader will ask how v-brake behaves on a painted steel rim. Normal, no squeals. Normal brake pads need to be taken and not mess with noname rubber bands.
Adjusting the position of the pads
“Fasten” the brake by squeezing the levers and placing the cable guide (C) in the stop (D). Loosen the block fixing bolt (K) with a hexagon. We press the lever with the block to the rim and set the block so that it:
- adhered to the rim with the entire surface
- did not touch the tire
- located parallel to the rim
In this position, the block must be fixed by tightening the bolt. When tightening the bolt, the block may move and must be corrected. It will be easier if you find an assistant who will grip and hold the brake lever while you tighten the bolt.
If your brakes squeal, try the following.
Before tightening the bolt, place a folded sheet of paper under the rear (in the direction of travel) of the shoe, then tighten the bolt. So the pads will be smoother to press against the rim when braking (first by the front, then by the rear) and will not “creak”.
We do similar operations with the second block.
HOW TO SET UP DISC BRAKES ON A BIKE: INSTRUCTIONS
Setting up disc brakes on a bicycle is not a complicated process. Now see for yourself. Let’s find out how to set up disc brakes on a bicycle yourself without asking for professional help:
Making a brake lever. part 1 // Framebuilding 101 with Paul Brodie
- After fixing the wheel, the caliper should be centered in relation to the rotor by picking up and installing washers of various thicknesses between the mountings on the frame and the caliper, which is included in the kit.
- The position of the caliper will vary depending on how tight the bolts are. Accordingly, the thickness and number of washers will need to be selected to a fraction of a millimeter.
- In the case when the rotor is in contact with both pads and friction occurs, the pads must be diluted. To do this, slightly unscrew the special hexagon on the caliper, while the brakes will start to work later.
- If you want to achieve a shorter brake lever travel, the hex must be screwed in. This may be due to an uneven brake disc that will need to be leveled.
- During the robot, do not turn the bike over to avoid air entering the system. Also, do not press the handle if there is no oil in the system, and the rotor does not stand between the brake pads, otherwise they will shrink, after which you will have to remove the caliper and open the brake pads with a screwdriver.
- When all operations are completed, tighten all the bolts again. When checking the robot, we carefully monitor that the brake disc does not warp or shift when pressing the brake lever.
PADS FOR DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS
On the market, brake pads for disc brakes are metallized (Sintered) and organic (Resin). And these types have both advantages and disadvantages.
Factors such as rider weight, weather and trail conditions, riding style, and rotor size can dictate the selection of a suitable pad composition.
ADJUSTMENT OF THE MECHANICAL DISC BRAKE
- Because mechanical disc brakes are more sensitive to wheel axle misalignment, bolts or cams should be tightened while sitting on the bike or pressing down on the front shock. Otherwise, in the future, making small jumps, friction of the rotor against the block may appear when riding.
- We tighten the adapter tightly. Install the caliper using the instructions above. One of the pads is pushed out by screwing in half a turn of the screw, which adjusts its position.
- In Hayes brake systems, before performing this operation, you need to unscrew the locking hexagon, and after all the adjustment is completed, return to its original position.
- Gently press the caliper to the rotor so that its plane coincides with the plane of the fixed pad.
- Then, alternately tighten the caliper mounting bolts. The actions given above are carried out with the jacket and cable disconnected. Make sure that the plane of the pad does not move relative to the plane of the brake disc.
- We tighten both hexagons and return the pad adjusting bolt to its original position.
- After that, we spin the wheel, checking for friction. If there is no friction, the static block can be pushed out slightly with the adjusting bolt and vice versa.
- We press the movable block, pulling the lever to which the cable is attached. In this case, the rotor will be slightly displaced towards the static block, but slightly!
- We put the cable and the shirt in the desired position in the lever, the outer block must be pressed. Tighten the corresponding bolt slightly.
- Gently press the brake lever until the start of the working stroke, from which the cable will be in the desired position in the lever. We tighten the fastening of the cable and check for the presence of friction of the pads. We twist the adjustment on the handle a little, if the shoe rubs and vice versa.
The brakes need to be adjusted so that the adjustment on the handle is minimally unscrewed, therefore, it is better to correct the position of the cable on the caliper lever. So the thread of the handles will be protected from damage.
HOW TO INSTALL DISC BRAKES ON THE BIKE YOURSELF
Before considering how to install disc brakes on a bicycle, let’s understand a little what a hydraulic disc brake system is.
As a rule, the component parts of a disc hydraulic brake are: a brake lever, a hydraulic line, a rotor (brake disc) a caliper (having reservoirs for brake fluid, under the pressure of which the brake pads come into contact with the rotor), an adapter by means of which the caliper is attached to the bike frame.
Hydraulic disc brakes have a significant performance advantage over mechanical disc brakes. This is due to the fact that the fluid in the hydraulic lines does not change its density, does not shrink or deform, unlike a mechanical brake cable.
There are open and closed types of hydraulic brakes. The disadvantages of closed ones include the need for adjustment during operation.
A decrease or increase in the volume of brake fluid, for example, due to the influence of temperature, causes the need to adjust the position of the brake pads. Also, brake pads should be adjusted when partial wear occurs.
Open brakes do not have this problem. Since their design provides for an expansion tank filled with brake fluid (usually located at the brake lever). Such brakes do not require adjustments during operation.
The presence of modulation (smooth movement of the handle at the beginning of the stroke and powerful adhesion of the pads to the rotor at the end) is influenced by the number of pistons in the caliper.
When it comes to choosing a particular model, it makes sense to consult with its owner. After all, different riding styles require different braking systems.
Cross country athletes are suitable for smooth and light, in downhill or freeride. powerful and well-controlled, in dirt jumping. with good modulation and, at the same time, as light and powerful as possible.
After the first adjustment of the pads, relative to the brake disc, they themselves take the correct position. This does not apply to single piston models. They require regulation, almost like mechanical ones. For example, Hayes Sole. This model is not considered the best among hydraulic brakes.
The preliminary preparation of open type hydraulic disc brakes is as follows:
- The brake system must be filled with oil. Shimano brakes use mineral oil. Avid, Hayes, Helix brakes use DOT brake fluid.
- The process of pumping the brake consists in squeezing out air from the hydraulic lines, cylinders and brake tanks, driving oil through them.
- Then the caliper is set in such a way that the brake pads do not cling to the rotor.
- Install disc brakes on a bicycle in the following sequence:
- Fix the brake levers on the steering wheel and adjust their position using a hexagon;
- We install the rotor on the hub, put the wheel in place, tighten with bolts or eccentrics;
- We fasten the adapter firmly, it is possible to use a thread lock;
- Install the caliper, but do not tighten the hexagons, so that it “floats”.
- By pressing the brake lever, check whether the brake pads extend equally when pressed.
- Clamping the brake disc with pads, the caliper will fall into place. To help him, you should try to spin the wheel back and forth.
- Tighten the bolts alternately. If the bolts were very loose, you will have to smoothly release again and sharply press the handle.
- Having pressed the caliper, you need to sharply push the handle 15-30 times to bring the pads to the brake disc at the working distance.
- With the handle released, we spin the wheel and check if there is any friction of the rotor on any of the pads. If there is, you need to loosen the clipper bolts and move it slightly towards the rubbing block.
- Then we tighten the bolts back and check if there is a need, we repeat the above steps.
BIKE BRAKE PADS, WHAT ARE
Cycling safety, the efficiency of its braking system directly depends on the used brake pads. Consider what are the brake pads for a bicycle, their advantages and disadvantages.
Depending on the design and price range, the pads are divided into varieties. And first of all, for two main types of brakes: rim (V-brake) and disc.
V-BRAKE BRAKE PADS
Disposable. their design consists of a bolt with metal plate spacer washers and a rubber base. They have small lines of operation, but also inexpensive.
Cartridge. their design consists of a bolt with spacer washers of a metal plate and cartridge pads, which are removed by pressing the cotter pins. The rubber base can be replaced.
There are pads for both dry and wet weather. You can determine the degree of wear of the rim brake pads by using special marks (grooves).
Worn pads should be replaced promptly to avoid damage to the rim. Note that both cartridge and disposable pads are suitable for V-brakes. And here the rule applies. the more expensive, the more effective.
METALLIC BRAKE PADS
Consist of an alloy of metal-containing substances.
- more resistant to heat from friction than organic brake pads;
- work more efficiently in wet conditions;
- I have a greater resource.
- create noise;
- long grinding;
- modulation is relatively worse;
- the caliper heats up instead of dissipating heat through the rotor.
These pads are preferred by riders with a lot of weight. Suitable for use on wet roads in mud and rain. During long descents, they retain their power, although modulation is worse with them.
They work noisily, but due to the greater rigidity of the composition, they have a tangible advantage in resource. Therefore, when starting the choice of brake pads, first of all, consider in what conditions you will use them.