How to make a bike switch gears

Cadence

Cadence is a term that refers to how often the gears are turning. The cadence must be chosen for yourself so that the pedals rotate with maximum efficiency. If a person has chosen a lower speed than his individual rhythm, then he will waste his energy. Also, because of this, the load on the joints increases and, accordingly, you can subsequently be injured.

If a person pedals at a high frequency, he will quickly get tired. It is necessary to select the rotation speed, relying on your senses.

Under all driving conditions, the pedaling speed must be the same at all times. This prevents fatigue from occurring over a longer period of time.

Shifting gears when going up

A common mistake when lifting is to use the rear derailleur predominantly. It is worth following this principle: set the reverse speed to the most comfortable position and work with the front gear. Thus, it will be possible to save time and effort in adjusting the optimal speed.

Having selected a comfortable forward speed, you can switch to adjusting the rear. This will allow you to more accurately select the most convenient gear.

How to choose the right combination

When changing gears, it is important not to skew the chain. If the cyclist does it right, then all the parts of the drivetrain will last much longer. Often times the chain will skew when choosing a large forward gear and an equally large rear gear. As a beginner, an important rule to remember is, “the chains and frames of the front derailleur must rotate parallel.” When driving on a flat road, choose a combination of the largest chainring and 4 to 8 rear sprockets. You can increase the load while driving on uneven terrain by setting the middle front gear and from the third to the sixth rear gear. It is more comfortable to climb upstairs with the first, second or third reverse speed.

It should be noted that the choice of the desired gear actually depends on a lot. Including from:

  • natural conditions;
  • the degree of tire inflation;
  • the degree of fatigue and endurance of the cyclist.

Learning to choose the right speed can be done over time. It is worth starting cycling at low speeds, this will help warm up the muscles. Avoid driving in a large gear at low speeds, this can damage your joints.

If the chain slips off when you change gear, or the switches stop working, then you should contact a specialist to adjust the mechanisms.

Information for cyclists: how to change gears correctly

Most cyclists today prefer speed bikes. Those who are just starting to master the bike are often not serious about correct gear shifting, considering that it is not particularly difficult.

What to look for

A few tips on how to change gears correctly.

  • To avoid damage to the chain, gears only need to be shifted when you are moving.
  • Gears must be switched sequentially, gradually lowering or increasing them. The next speed can be changed only after the previous one has worked.
  • When going up to a lower speed, you need to switch in advance.
  • It is also necessary to change gears in advance before moving down.
  • Do not change gear while driving on sand, mud, soil and grass. this significantly overloads the chain.
  • To change the speed, you need to reduce the intensity of the pedaling.
  • Throwing the chain should be smooth and quiet. If extraneous noises or rattling are heard, then the chain and gears must be carefully examined. This business is best entrusted to a specialist. If the gear changes are too heavy, it may also be the result of dirt adhering to the bike parts.
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Standard bike 3X8: gears and gear changes

A set of speeds as standard on a 3X8 bike:

  • In a simple configuration, it is available from 3 forward speeds and 8-9 rear.
  • The speeds of the front gears are numbered in ascending order (from 1 to 3), and the rear gears are numbered (from 8 to 1).

There are several rules for how to properly switch speeds on such a bike.

  • On a flat road such as tarmac, a large chainring is used. It is recommended to combine with it from 4 to 8 rear sprockets.
  • For rough terrain, it is best to choose a middle chainring and a 2 to 6 rear chainring. This does not exclude the possibility of using a full set of rear sprockets. At this speed, it is convenient to maneuver between obstacles in the city.
  • The 1st to 5th rear sprockets are matched with the front small gear. This makes it easier to ride on steep slopes, sticky mud, grass and sand.

Gear system: care features

If the speeds do not change accordingly or do not switch at all, then this may not always mean a breakdown. Perhaps the problem is that the elements are heavily soiled or that grass or other objects that interfere with movement have entered the chain. To prevent this from happening, you need to clean and lubricate moving parts in time. This will help make gear shifting smoother and the ride more comfortable.

You should also listen to the sounds that arise during the movement. There should be no metallic rattle or extraneous knocking. If you hear sounds when changing gears, then in most cases this can be corrected by lubricating the gears and chain with the appropriate composition. Ideally, this should be done at least once a season. This will extend the life of your bike.

All cyclists should strive for intuitive gear shifting. Experienced cyclists handle equally well with varying numbers of gears and degrees of wear, while beginners are best served with instructions on how to shift gears correctly for a while.

Triple tandem

If your family or company has three people and everyone wants to ride the same bike at once, then you will have to create a tandem tricycle with three seats. This option is perfect for a family with a child, for whom riding on such a rare and unusual form of transport will become a truly unforgettable adventure. However, Honor stands that it is much more difficult to maintain balance on this model than on a single or double.

The principle of work in order to make a tandem bike with 3 seats with your own hands is the same as the two-wheel option mentioned above. But to create it, you will need three original bicycles, where the third one joins the second in the same way as the second one joins the first.

What’s next?

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  • We come to the stage of extending the chain. The front chain will have to be extended just enough to reach the rear wheel. The easiest way to do this is to use a special chain release. If such a special tool is not available, then purchase two links for connecting in a chain and cut off an additional necessary section with a hacksaw. The entire chain must have no more than 37 links. Less is possible, but not more.
  • In order for the frame of the assembled tandem bike to take the shape necessary for riding, it is enough to put a load on it after the entire assembly by twisting the chain on various sprockets.
  • Synchronize the pedals with each other. This is necessary to avoid kicking each other while driving, as well as to maintain balance and passing the track on turns, races on a hill.
  • Attach the brake from the back with a long cable.
  • Optionally, you can install a second steering wheel. However, Honor should say that this will interfere with maintaining balance.
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Stages of work

  • Need to disconnect the steering wheel.
  • Disconnect the front plug.
  • Remove the cables (they are no longer needed).
  • Using a hammer, remove the grooved race from the ball bearing on the head tube that supports the fork at the front.
  • A metal hacksaw cuts a glass located under the handlebars, so that a bowl is obtained to surround the seat tube in the front bike.
  • The wheel is removed, which is behind.
  • All devices are removed from the rear wheel required to change gears of speed.
  • The pipes that supported the wheel at the back are sawed off with a hacksaw. You only need to remove the feathers on top, we still need feathers on the bottom.
  • Tie the upper part in front of the last bike to the tube under the saddle from the first bike using electrical tape. This must be done as neatly and firmly as possible, keeping the adhesive tape constantly with the adhesive part inside.
  • In order to avoid bends in the middle of our tandem at the junction, you need to take two pre-prepared sticks and pull them tightly to the frame pipes that are on top. Insulating tape is not worth saving on this. Next, we bind the poles to the pipe under the saddle or to the joint.
  • The pre-set fork at the front of the bike is cleared of excess until it changes from a Y-shape to a U-shape.
  • The plug will need to be mounted on the pipe. To center it on the pipe, you will need to cut two notches at the base (V-shape).
  • The fork is installed so that it wraps around the pipe under the saddle. The ends fit towards the other two tubes on the first bike.
  • The tube should be where the chain is. In this we will be helped by continuous work with a hammer on the frame and fork, up to the moment of establishing the free passage of the chain, without catching the pipes and the fork. Frames must complement each other as much as possible.
  • We tie both ends of our already assembled tandem bike with electrical tape. To begin with, the end of the fork is connected to the end of the frame at the front (this is done end-to-end). Then the fork is attached to the pipe under the saddle and to any other frame part for additional reinforcement.
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Getting Started

  • An additional steering column bracket is added to the rear bike.
  • In the front bike, you need to strengthen the trunk and install a cross-shaped tube (hinge) on it:
  • We weld the support to the trunk.
  • We screw the kingpin to the welded support (you can make the kingpin from the front forked old rod from the bike used for reworking).
  • We put the hinge on the already bolted pivot.

The advantage of such a half-tandem is quick and easy assembly. the frames are not cut, the chains on each bike remain separate. If necessary, such a tandem is very easy to split again into two separate bicycles.

Pros of using

  • To overcome the same distance on a tandem, at least half the effort is spent than on a regular single bike.
  • If one cyclist gets tired, then for rest it is enough just to change places, because the last passenger can ride, literally closing his eyes, and even lower his tired hands on flat sections of the track.
  • The speed of a tandem bike is much higher than the speed of an ordinary cyclist. It may well reach 35 kilometers per hour.
  • The descent speed is also higher. Although the torque remains unchanged, the weight of the vehicle with passengers is at least twice as large.
  • Emotional traits: team spirit, ability to work together, a sense of “fellowship”.

How to make a tandem bike with your own hands?

The word “tandem” has English roots and means “arrangement one behind the other.” This word is best known when applied to a tandem bike, designed for two or more people who sit one after the other. The standard is a bicycle with one frame and two wheels. And each person has an individual saddle and their own pedals.

Description

Such an unusual bike is driven by a person in front, although there are models with an installed steering gear. If the steering wheel does not perform a steering function, it is used as a hand support. The braking system can also be activated or deactivated. There are models with two wheels on the rear axle.

From history: the first patented tandem bicycle appeared back in 1898 in Europe.

Metamorphosis of two broken bicycles

There is an option to make a tandem bike with your own hands, using two out of order, two sticks and one roll of duct tape.

How You Should Be Changing Gears on Your Bike/Bicycle

  • Hacksaw for metal.
  • Insulating tape.
  • Adjustable spanner.
  • Hammer.
  • Tool capable of squeezing a chain or chain links connected together.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Any two bicycles that have a high top tube frame (usually found on men’s models).
  • The derailleur for the front gears should have the two smallest sprockets and the same number of teeth (it can be removed from the old bike if it fits in the parameters, or you can buy a new one on the market).
  • Long cable for rear brake.