How to lubricate the rear wheel of a bicycle

Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

It is necessary to disassemble the case only after the workplace has been put in complete order. It is extremely important to carry out all intermediate operations with a high degree of care and accuracy.

First of all, the cassette is removed from its axis. For the convenience of work, it is necessary to use a whip and a puller. Open the circlip, remove the bearings with washers. Remember the original positions of the bearings and washers. In the future, this will allow you not to get confused during assembly. Examine every detail carefully.

Noticing the slightest chips, scratches, damage, it is better to replace the parts without regret. Remove the axle, clean the bushing housing from dust, dirt, rust with a dry soft cloth. Lubricate each part with grease. This process is carried out as the elements are installed in their regular places.

Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either with backlash or when tightening the cone. So, step by step instructions:

  • Clear the place of operations from all unnecessary items, things, unnecessary tools.
  • Loosen the lock nut with a key.
  • Loosen or tighten the cone nut.
  • Tighten the locknut in its original place.

Bicycle rear hub and its device

lubricate, rear, wheel, bicycle

The wheel has long been ranked among the most important units. It usually experiences more stress from the back than from the front. Why? Yes, because it is equipped with a ratchet and an additional cassette.

During movement, the main emphasis is carried out on it. Competent repair, maintenance of the rear wheel is possible only after familiarization with the device and the functional purpose of its hub.

A hub is a wheel component that attaches to the bike frame, specifically drop points. It is located in the very center of the wheel and provides free rotation for it. Sleeve composition:

How to Lube a Bicycle

  • Axis.
  • Lock-nut.
  • Washer.
  • Cone.

If the cause of the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it using the following recommendations:

  • After removing the workplace, dismantle the retaining ring.
  • We take out the hub axle. Disconnect the elements located on the side opposite to the asterisks first.
  • We check the condition of every detail.
  • We carry out replacement of worn out parts.
  • Assembling the assembly, tightening the flare nuts and locknut.

Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other

The division of the rear hubs into varieties allows you to classify them according to the possibility of braking and stopping the bike. Depending on their design, the rear hubs are divided into:

  • Without brake.
  • With built-in brakes.

Conversely, bushings that do not have a braking mechanism also fall into two categories:

  • No freewheel.
  • Free running.

The bushings, which have a built-in foot brake mechanism, are structurally made according to the second category. The main feature of the hub with a brake mechanism is that at the moment of braking and stopping the vehicle, press the pedals in the opposite direction.

The bushings are fixed to the frame with two nuts. This method is inexpensive. The second mounting option is with the help of an eccentric, which is much more expensive, but more convenient. So the nuts do not need to be unscrewed with a wrench; to remove the eccentric wheel, you just need to squeeze its handle. Removal procedure takes only a few seconds.

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The bushing material is of great importance for efficient operation. Bushings are:

  • Aluminum. They are not subject to decay, corrosion, lightweight, comfortable.
  • Steel. Extremely strong, but heavy, corrosive.

The hubs also vary in size. The standards regulate several dimensions. from 9 mm to 15 mm. The weight of the bushing is the greater, the larger is its cross-section.

How to Assemble the Rear Bicycle Hub?

After lubricating every part, reassemble the bushing. For proper assembly, the following professional guidelines should be strictly adhered to:

  • The axle is exposed in such a position in which it is impossible to confuse its right side, which is tightly tightened. Adjust the axle using its left taper.
  • Push the left cone onto the axle until it stops.
  • Put on washers.
  • Tighten the lock nut.
  • Adjust the bearings.

When to service the rear hub

Trouble-free operation of wheels, 100% serviceability of critical parts of the machine are possible only if they are maintained in proper condition. Lubricate the rear hub of the bike regularly as it visually dries. The spokes and rim must be tightened periodically. Bearing balls should also be changed, brake pads should be adjusted as often as possible.

The rear hub just needs to be serviced regularly. If you do not do this, very soon you will need a complex and expensive repair of the entire wheel. It’s better to take care of your vehicle right away for the long term. The rear hub does not require much more effort to service than the front.

It must be serviced in the following situations:

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  • The body makes noise when rocking or while driving.
  • Backlash.
  • Bearing crunch.
  • Roll-forward dynamics is insufficient.

It is dangerous to ignore these signs. In the future, the bicycle disease will worsen. Very soon, the whole car would just crumble. A complete renovation will cost much more.

It is best to service the wheels regularly, especially since it is easy to do it yourself. In the spring, when the cycling season is just beginning, they should be checked for play. All bearings must not be over-tightened.

Wheel axle bearings

If the grease has dried out, then there is resistance to the wheel movement, an increased noise level, and when the bearing is destroyed, a backlash occurs in the wheel, and even wheel jamming can occur. The bearing lubrication scheme is identical to that of the carriage bearings.

Front and rear derailleurs

The continuity of the cycle depends on the clarity and consistency of their actions. Sometimes, especially when going uphill, switching should be done immediately after the afterburner, in order to change gears not in tension, but in free speed. This often takes a fraction of a second, and the switches must be flawlessly engaged so that the upward climb does not get bogged down.

Switches are ideally disassembled for lubrication. information about maintenance and lubrication can be found here:

How to lubricate the carriage

Lubrication of the carriage on a bicycle is done by simply placing grease in the cups and on the surface of the bearings, on the bushing, and by distributing them evenly. In addition, before lubricating the carriage, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the bearings and all cavities, the surface of the bushing, for example, with kerosene. It is flushing that will subsequently make it possible to properly lubricate the carriage.

Wire ropes

The bike has several cables that transmit the force from the shifters and brake levers to the front and rear derailleurs, as well as to the disc brakes or V. brake. If dirt has accumulated between the jacket and the cable, or the surfaces are dry, the controls may become seized. This leads to untimely gear changes and even to the impossibility of emergency braking.

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To lubricate the cable entry and exit points from the jacket, apply a couple of drops of lubricant, and then operate the shifter lever or the brake handle. This allows you to lubricate evenly and to a considerable depth.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain

  • increase the chain tension by moving it to the corresponding large sprockets;
  • carefully clean the chain from dirt, you can use a rag by pressing it against the free section of the bicycle chain and turning the pedal;
  • then we lubricate the chain, it is better to apply the lubricant over the top point of the roller (if the bike is standing with its wheels up). Make sure one drop falls on each link.
  • When the whole chain is lubricated, you need to intensively turn the pedals in the opposite direction for a minute. idling of the chain, and then, choosing an average speed, turn the bicycle chain in the forward direction.
  • At the final stage, you need to remove all excess oil from the outside with a soft clean rag, since the main action of the lubricant is to work on the inner joints of the links, and from the outside, ordinary grease clings to dust, poplar fluff and contaminates the rollers and rear sprockets with its deposits. So don’t be afraid to rub the chain properly.

In addition to lubrication, you need to monitor the mileage of the chain. On average, it needs to be replaced after every 1500. 2000 km for the following reasons:

Also, the question often arises about how often to lubricate the chain.?

There are no uniform standards. It all depends on the feelings of the bike owner:

  • if resistance or crunch appears in the circuit;
  • after driving through dust and sand;
  • after any walk that exceeds 3-5 hours.

Some people lubricate the chain after 100 km of run, regardless of operating conditions. Probably this decision is the most correct, as it teaches you to regular maintenance.

Front fork damping system

It is the presence of a shock absorber that allows the biker not to pay attention to obstacles and makes the bike passable. A good shock absorber resists the reaction of the support to the front wheel in a timely manner, so the fork must be kept in good condition.

Normally, it is necessary to lubricate the fork legs after 150-200 kilometers, after 700 km (on average) the oil seals are disassembled and lubricated, and annually or after a run of 3-4 thousand km. the oil in the shock absorber is completely replaced.

It is better to show all the care of the fork in the video than to describe it in detail in text. For example, here you can see all the preventive maintenance operations for the front fork and shock absorbers:

Chain tensioning mechanism

Rear derailleur rollers. They are often clogged with grease and dirt deposits that have thickened around the perimeter. They must be removed carefully, for example with a flat head screwdriver.

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It is necessary to apply a dotted liquid lubricant on the roller axles to avoid squeaking and tight rotation. Only lubricated, they are able to keep the chain taut.

Main run carriage

We can say that this is the main axis of the bicycle. It is from her that an impulse is distributed to other elements. Therefore, the speed, ease, and comfort of the stroke depend on the state of the carriage. The carriage elements are:

  • cups,
  • actual axis,
  • bearings.
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A different, thick grease is put into the carriage, not the kind that drips onto the chain or cables.

How to lubricate the rear wheel of a bicycle

Rear Wheel Hub Service

The condition of the bike’s front and rear hubs affects the ease of travel. In my humble opinion (which I do not want to impose on anyone), the concept of “a bicycle rolls” or “does not roll” depends not so much on the geometric and mechanical properties of the frame, as many believe, but on the grooming and condition of its chassis. bushings, chains, systems, carriages. Although, of course, the properties of the frame should not be neglected either.

A well-adjusted and lubricated bushing should rotate easily and quietly, without play or binding. If the bushing began to emit incomprehensible sounds (crunching, tapping), or the wheel began to rotate hard, then it’s time to rinse the bushing, lubricate it, or at least adjust it. With proper care, the bushings can work 10.20 thousand km or more, and it is better to monitor their condition. Replacing the bushing. the operation is quite time-consuming, because in this case you will have to remove all the spokes from the rim.

The rear wheel hub is more stressed than the front wheel hub. It has a more complex device, because it has a freewheel mechanism (ratchet), as well as a block of sprockets (cassette).

The rear hub is not much more difficult to service than the front hub. At the beginning of the season, it is necessary to check it for play or excessive tightening of the bearings, and, if necessary, adjust everything. And after 1000-2000 km it is not bad to change the lubricant. If you ride in winter, as well as on muddy dirt roads, overcome fords, then you can lubricate more often.

That, in fact, is all that needs to be done. It can be added that before a long trip, it is also worth checking the condition of the bushing, because it is inconvenient to disassemble the bushings for adjustment and lubrication in the field.

Almost all rear hubs that are found on modern bicycles are similar in design. There may be different ways of attaching the wheel to the fork. Some wheels are attached to the fork with nuts, and some. quick-acting eccentric clamp. But this difference only affects the way the wheel is removed.

Some design differences have bushings related to mountain and road groups.

Road and road bike hubs have seals (oil seals) that keep dirt out of the bearings. Usually they are structurally integrated with the bearing cones. Mountain and off-road bike hubs, in addition to taper seals, often have rubber boots that provide extra protection from dirt. After all, such bicycles, unlike road bicycles, must be able to ride on muddy terrain. This extra dirt protection increases the weight of the bike and reduces ease of movement, so anthers are not used on racing and road bikes.

Bicycles equipped with disc brakes have special bushings, to the flanges of which the brake discs are attached.

The methods of fastening the ratchet cassette to the hub can also be different. On domestic multi-speed bicycles, two types of rear hubs are used. Hubs with a built-in ratchet are installed on road and touring bicycles (A flange is pressed onto the hub body on the right, which is also part of the ratchet).