How to lubricate the legs of a bicycle fork

Algorithm for removing the plug

To remove the front fork of an e-bike:

  • Unscrew all components attached to the fork: brake caliper, speed sensor, V-brake or disc brake hose, fender, etc.
  • Remove the bolts holding the stem to the rudder tube. Unscrew the anchor bolt.
  • Taking care not to hit the brake hose, remove and lower the stem.
  • Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve by carefully prying it in the cutting area with a compact screwdriver. Remove the top rolling ring and bearing.
  • Carefully remove the rudder tube from the glass. Remove bearing and rolling ring underneath. Remove the bicycle wheel by unscrewing the fasteners or loosening the eccentric.

How and how to lubricate a bicycle fork?

lubricate, legs, bicycle, fork

The bicycle fork performs shock-absorbing functions, smooths out shocks, reduces the load on the cyclist’s arms, and reduces wear on the frame and other elements of the bike. Periodically, she needs to carry out repair and preventive measures: applying new grease, replacing bearings, oil seals or other worn out elements, aligning the steering tube and performing similar work. Before lubricating a suspension fork on a bicycle or replacing worn components, it must first be dismantled and disassembled.

It is recommended to lubricate the oil seals after about 700 km of run, at least once a season, and to sort out and lubricate the entire fork with a lubricant at a frequency of 4000 km. If the vehicle is operated in conditions of increased exposure to sand and other abrasive materials, its fork will have to be lubricated more often. They say about the need for prevention or repair of the fork: squeaks, knocking and other suspicious sounds during driving, jamming, uncontrollability, backlash, cranking or difficult movement of the steering wheel, cracks in pants or legs and other similar defects.

Assembly and installation of the fork after lubrication

To assemble and put the plug back, you need to perform the above steps in reverse order:

  • Install 2 stems on legs and springs. Lock the adjustments on the fork legs.
  • Place the stops and stops located at the bottom on the rods.
  • Install the oil seals. Fix the pants on the legs of the fork. Tighten the bolts.
  • Put on the assembled fork. Fix the stem and other dismantled elements.
  • If there are rudder tube backlashes, eliminate them.

After inserting the lubricated fork back into the cuffs of her pants, lubricant will leak out, and this is normal. Gradually, excess lubricant will come out, and its release will stop. But for some time after lubrication, you will have to wipe off the excess of the applied composition after each rental.

How to lubricate an e-bike plug without disassembling?

For proper lubrication, the fork must be disassembled. Without disassembly, it can only be cleaned using silicone grease or industrial oil. It is enough to drip a little oil at the place where the legs of the fork enter the pants, press down on the steering wheel and perform up and down movements so that the oil penetrates deeper. After that, it remains to wipe off the excess oil and return the protective anthers to their place. After this operation, the legs of the fork remain practically dry, with a thin layer of grease. Dirt sticks to oil weakly and can be cleaned off with anthers without any problems.

Fork disassembly algorithm

Before you lubricate the bike fork, you need to carefully remove the used grease from the elements and disassemble. New grease will be applied later, before reassembling the fork into the glass. To disassemble the plug, you should:

  • Turn the fork over, remove the bolts.
  • Remove the pants from the fork legs. Remove the oil seals as needed.
  • Clean up past grease and dirt everywhere, including cuffs and inner edges of pants.
  • Remove the lower stops and stops from the rods without undue effort.
  • Using a special wrench or an alternative device, unscrew the adjustments on the fork legs. Remove the springs with caps and elastomers and 2 stems on legs.
  • Completely remove any residual grease from the fork components.

After these procedures, the bike fork is ready to apply new grease.

How and how to properly lubricate the front fork of a bicycle?

There are various options for how to lubricate a bicycle spring fork. Litol grease is well suited for these purposes. 24. It is designed for use in a wide temperature range (from 50 to 150 ° C), does not thicken and confidently copes with its tasks. It is undesirable to pour liquid oils into the fork pants in order to avoid them dripping, the mechanism running dry, the jerky functioning of the spring and other problems in the operation of the shock absorber.

In general, the choice of bicycle lubricants is very wide, but they can all be divided into 3 groups:

  • Thick (consistent). Reliable and durable formulations that work well over a wide temperature range. But they are not easy to apply and attract dust. The thick formulations are ideal for machining bearings, arm bushings and other slow rotating components. Popular greases. petroleum jelly, lithium, graphite and calcium formulations.
  • Liquid. Easy-to-apply products, easily poured even into unassembled units. Surplus of such funds can be easily wiped off. But liquid lubricants change viscosity when the temperature changes and easily drain from surfaces. Bicycle forks are lubricated with industrial oil.
  • Two-component. These products are composed of a thick oil and a solvent. They are convenient when processing prefabricated mechanisms. Popular types of 2-component lubricants are silicone, teflon and wax. The latter requires more frequent updates.

Now let’s look at how to lubricate an e-bike plug by disassembling it. It is necessary to apply generous grease to the spring, ramming the composition between its rings. Excess grease will flow out through the stem bore and packing box. Additionally, you need to apply a lubricant to the grooves of the cuffs and pants. All rubbing elements must be lubricated with a thin layer. At the end of the lubrication process, it remains to assemble and install the fork back.

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Maintenance of a bicycle suspension fork is not an easy procedure and should be left to a competent mechanic. Their help is especially relevant in situations where the suspension fork works with certain difficulties, and you need to find out the cause of the problem. But if you have free time, skills and tools, maintenance of the suspension fork can be done with your own hands at home.

In addition, you need to regularly carry out preventive measures. it is recommended to lubricate the fork legs with silicone grease before each rental. It does not harm rubber, does not attract dust, does an excellent job with its tasks and does not cause difficulties when wiping off excess.

Our previous blog post provides good advice for beginners and seasoned cyclists on how to ride an e-bike for a new riding experience.

Algorithm for removing the plug

To remove the front fork of an e-bike:

  • Unscrew all components attached to the fork: brake caliper, speed sensor, V-brake or disc brake hose, fender, etc.
  • Remove the bolts holding the stem to the rudder tube. Unscrew the anchor bolt.
  • Taking care not to hit the brake hose, remove and lower the stem.
  • Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve by carefully prying it in the cutting area with a compact screwdriver. Remove the top rolling ring and bearing.
  • Carefully remove the rudder tube from the glass. Remove bearing and rolling ring underneath. Remove the bicycle wheel by unscrewing the fasteners or loosening the eccentric.

Why remove and disassemble the plug

The front shock absorber, like other parts, periodically requires maintenance, repair or complete replacement. Before such procedures, it is imperative to remove this part from the transport and disassemble it for parts. When will withdrawal be required? First, if necessary, replacements. In addition, it may be necessary to replace the support components or bearings with new ones. Inspection, adjustment and other repair work is also systematically required. Most often, disassembling the plug is needed to change the oil or parts that have worn out (for example, oil seals, cuffs).

BIKERUMOR: If yes, how often?

ROCKSHOX: Before or after each ride, the struts and dust boots should be cleaned and inspected.

How To Service Rock Shox MTB Fork | Mountain Bike Maintenance

WET SEAL: This depends on how often you drive, where you drive, and your fork manufacturer. We recommend applying Wet Seal every three trips. If you are driving in dry desert / dusty climates, it may be beneficial for you to apply it before each ride. Seals in dry climates are prone to cracking if not cared for.

MUC-OFF: Reapply before each ride for best results and maximum protection.

Periodic maintenance

It implies preventive measures for cleaning and lubricating all the hub assemblies of the bicycle in order to avoid their failure, thereby reducing the cost of purchasing new parts and problems with repairs. Many bicycle masters recommend replacing the bushing bearing grease every 5000 km, but as practice shows, a lot depends on the road surface on which you ride and the quality of the bushing itself (the anther design itself). Therefore, the need for maintenance may arise earlier.

Assembly and installation of the fork after lubrication

To assemble and put the plug back, you need to perform the above steps in reverse order:

  • Install 2 stems on legs and springs. Lock the adjustments on the fork legs.
  • Place the stops and stops located at the bottom on the rods.
  • Install the oil seals. Fix the pants on the legs of the fork. Tighten the bolts.
  • Put on the assembled fork. Fix the stem and other dismantled elements.
  • If there are rudder tube backlashes, eliminate them.

After inserting the lubricated fork back into the cuffs of her pants, lubricant will leak out, and this is normal. Gradually, excess lubricant will come out, and its release will stop. But for some time after lubrication, you will have to wipe off the excess of the applied composition after each rental.

BIKERUMOR: The same applies to the rear shock absorbers?

ROCKSHOX: Yes. Clean and inspect the shock housing before or after each ride using the same procedure; if necessary, use a clean, lint-free towel and isopropyl alcohol to extend the life of the wiper seal, minimize damage to the shock body and minimize air contamination.

Applying lubricant to the damper housing will attract dirt and debris, which the wiper seal will remove the next time it is squeezed, creating a ring of oil and debris that will need to be cleaned out before the next ride. The wiper is designed to keep out dirt and debris, not to pull in grease. Performing a standard 50 hour air cylinder service will provide the necessary lubrication to keep the shock absorber working properly until the next service interval is reached.

WET SEAL: The rear shocks are slightly different. The mechanism uses smaller parts and less internal oil / air than the fork, so fewer Wet Seal applications are required. This is not to say the seals don’t dry out on the rear shock, but they dry out less due to the configuration of the rear shock absorbers. The seals on the rear shocks are also larger for better heat dissipation. We recommend applying two drops of Wet Seal to the rear shock seals approximately every dozen trips.

MUC-OFF: Yes, our Silicon Shine is ideal for use with both front and rear shocks.

How to clean and lubricate suspension forks

Follow these simple steps after every few trips. Keep track of your forks, and you can prologize their use and travel longer between services.

As with any kit on a bike, cleaning is important to prolong its useful life, neglect this aspect and you may see a drop in performance as well as some costly repairs. Here’s our simple guide to cleaning and caring for forks, plus a few simple tips to help you enjoy your bike longer.

Clean forks and shocks after every ride, in fact wash your bike after every ride! Sounds obvious, but scary about the amount of worn parts that could have been avoided by just using a little water and soap.

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After you’ve cleaned your bike, ideally place it on a bike stand and change the angle as shown in the picture. This will help with any dripping, any excess oil dripping down the racks and making it easier to wipe, but more importantly, not will hit the brakes or other unwanted places.

Don’t be intimidated by the addition of a bike rack, start at just over £ 60 and will pay off in the time you save. https://www.merlincycles.com/bicycle-workstands-44322/

Why remove and disassemble the bike fork

A bicycle fork, like all other components, can be replaced, repaired or serviced. Therefore, before proceeding with these procedures, we need to remove it from the bike, and in some cases disassemble the shock absorber for parts. In what cases will we have to remove it? First of all, this is when it is replaced by another. Secondly, it may be necessary to replace bearings and / or support cups, apply new lubricant, and also, there are times when it is necessary to align the steering tube or perform other repair work.

Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.

How to remove a bicycle fork

Below you will find detailed instructions for dismantling the front suspension fork with explanatory pictures.

  • First of all, we carry out preparatory work, namely, we unscrew everything that is attached to the plug. In our case, this is the brake caliper, as well as the front disc brake hose, which is clamped to the fork legs. If you have V-brakes installed, then dismantle them. This also applies to the speed sensor from the bike computer, front fender, etc.
  • Unscrew the bolts securing the stem to the steering tube, and then unscrew the bicycle fork anchor bolt.
  • Carefully remove the steering wheel together with the stem and lower it down. At this stage, you should act carefully so as not to damage the hydraulic lines or accidentally hitting the metal parts of the steering wheel on the frame, so as not to scratch the latter.
  • Remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve (cone). To do this, carefully pry it with a small flat screwdriver in the area of ​​the cut. Then we take out the upper rolling ring and the upper bearing. All these actions are illustrated by the pictures below.
  • All operations have been completed and now you can carefully remove the steering tube from the glass. After that, it remains for us to get the bearing, the lower rolling ring and remove the front wheel. To do this, we loosen the eccentric or unscrew the fixing bolts (depending on the type of attachment). This completes the process of removing the bike fork.

How to lubricate a bicycle fork

Hey! Can you advise how you can lubricate a bicycle fork? (Suntour xcm) 80mm Simple analogs desirable. (Specialized lubricants are not interested)

Hey! Can you advise how you can lubricate a bicycle fork? (Suntour xcm) 80mm Simple analogs desirable. (Specialized lubricants are not interested) This fork has plastic bosses and can be lubricated with inexpensive grease. For example Litol-24.

———- Added at 16:47 ———- Previous post was at 16:44 ———-

In general, silicone spray contains a solvent that corrodes gum and anthers (makes them brittle). But for santur, this is probably not relevant. The fork will die faster. It is more rational to fill the anthers with some kind of dirt-retaining and water-repellent grease, such as calcium or stupid petroleum jelly. Then, during the work of the legs, the place of friction will be lubricated, the dirt will not penetrate so much into the pants. I’m stuffing with calcium motorex 2000.

gentlemen, rubber seals on the doors of the car are sprayed with silicone spray, the rubber there is not oil and petrol-resistant, and on the bike the rubber is in contact with lubricants, it is resistant, what are you talking about?

a dropper or spray, a religious question, I am for the first, but what was asked, and then answered.

What? We’ve been through this already. What to smear, what not to smear, what to fill your pants with zero sense. Well, this plug does not work, in any way.

What? We’ve been through this already. What to smear them, what not to smear them, what to fill your pants with zero sense. Well, this plug does not work, in any way.

The main thing for me is that the fork lives longer, and her work does not interest me, because I drive on asphalt mostly

The main thing for me is that the fork lives longer, and her work does not interest me, because I drive on asphalt mostly

For complacency. smear the legs of the fork with silicone grease and wipe after riding.

and you definitely tried to ride on a working one? if not, then try it, maybe you will be interested.

I rode some expensive bike (canondoil), of course it is much more comfortable there, heaven and earth. But my fork somehow absorbs a little, that’s enough for me. And I want to lubricate, so that she does not emit a grinding noise during her work. About 3-4 months ago, they took it apart with my dad, cleaned it, poured machine oil, a month later it began to flow from the bottom, that is, now the pants are oily from below: unsure:

I rode some expensive bike (canondoil), of course, it is much more comfortable there, heaven and earth. But my fork somehow absorbs a little, that’s enough for me. And I want to lubricate, so that she does not emit a grinding noise during her work. About 3-4 months ago, they took it apart with my dad, cleaned it, poured machine oil, a month later it began to flow from the bottom, that is, now the pants are oily from below: unsure:

This plug only contains grease, not liquid. If it was already poured into the legs, then it was necessary to gaskets for bolts or for sealant.

It does not cushion, but stupidly springs, and it can stop doing this too. For cushioning, there must be something to prevent quick release. Without this, she simply hammers on the hands on the bumps, and does not amortize. And she weighs too much. Caring for these forks is just a waste of time before purchasing a working and lightweight fork. And if you don’t have a lot of extra weight, the standard spring in this fork will be overly stiff for you. Air only, it can be easily inflated by weight.

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I have an entry-level bike. I don’t see any reason to buy expensive forks, for the price of my lasik I will manage with this one, even if it is a little springy, but at least it doesn’t hit my hands on bumps and that’s good. I understand perfectly well that this is not a fork, but shit. Here, I would like to lubricate so that it continues to spring and does not fail ahead of time

The main thing for me is that the fork lives longer, and her work does not interest me, because I drive on asphalt mostly

———- Added at 12:59 ———- Previous post was at 12:56 ———-

can be turned into candy by turning the spring to the correct stiffness, choosing an elastomer for damping, correcting the geometry, if even wedges, properly cleaning and lubricating. Only someone else has to do this and take some money for it. And with native bashings and anthers, it’s still half-corpses, except that the runs are very small. I saw with my own eyes a santurka xcm with rooted alu bashings, a turnkey and some kind of air self-assembly instead of a steel spring. Why only?

Two simple suspension fork maintenance tips

So, I would like to lubricate so that it continues to spring and does not fail ahead of time Disassemble, clean, and smear some not very thick grease on the bosses, well, and regularly splash your feet, even if only with silicone from a can and wipe with a cloth. In order for the liquid oil in the legs to work, you need to turn it over regularly, well, it flows, without seals. If this is not for winter, then there is no need.

Only someone else has to do this and take some money for it. And with native bashings and anthers, it’s still half-corpses, except that the runs are very small. I saw with my own eyes a santurka xcm with rooted aluminum bashings, a turnkey and some kind of air self-assembly instead of a steel spring. Why only?

Disassemble, clean, and smear some not very thick grease on the bosses, and regularly spray your feet, even if only with silicone from a can and wipe with a cloth. In order for the liquid oil in the legs to work, you need to turn it over regularly, well, it flows, without seals. If this is not for winter, then there is no need.

Can I just grease it with grease ?: rolleyes: otherwise I don’t have silicone grease. It’s necessary to use silicone?

How and how to lubricate a bicycle fork?

Every part of the bike has its own functional meaning. The fork is designed to smooth out shocks and minimize stress on the arms. By fulfilling the amortization task, it extends the useful life of the frame. The fork is a fairly strong part, but it needs periodic preventive measures. This article explains how to lubricate a bicycle front fork.

As you may have noticed, removing, disassembling and lubricating a mountain or city bike suspension fork at home is not that difficult. The main thing is to treat this process responsibly and do everything consistently. The better you take care of your iron horse, the longer it will delight you with its trouble-free work.

How to track the fork

First rule. never wash your plug with a pressure washer.

Keeping your bike clean is a good and good practice, but you shouldn’t wash your fork, and your feet with anthers, in particular with a pressure washer. From dirty anthers under the pressure of water, dirt can get into the fork, and the water inside does not bode well for you! Therefore, be extremely careful when washing your bike after a serious mud ride.

The second rule is to remove dirt from the anthers with a cloth.

Just wrap a piece of cloth around the fork leg with a left-and-right motion to wipe the dirt off the boot and don’t forget to check for dirt between the gorilla and the fork leg.

Third rule. no external lubrication!

If you additionally lubricate the legs of the fork before rolling, it will only harm the fork. Dirt sticks well to the grease and will eventually end up inside your fork. If the fork was carried out on time, then all the necessary lubricant is already inside. If you want the grease to get to the bosses and seals, just turn the bike upside down and let it stand for 5-10 minutes. The grease is guaranteed to flow down and lubricate all necessary components. And during active skiing, the grease itself will fall on the bosses.

Fourth rule. use a protective film

The exact oil change period can be found in the instructions for your plug. If there was no manual in the kit, then just look for it on the Internet. The more the oil seals and anthers are worn out, the more dirt gets inside and the more often you will have to change the oil to maintain the quality of the fork. So do not forget about their periodic replacement.

It is worth noting that closed fork cartridges (when the oil is isolated inside a special container) or closed oil baths (when the oil in the leg does not mix with the oil in the leg of the fork) can be serviced less often, but you need to clean the fork pants from dirt and change the oil in them more often This will extend the overall service life and will not hit your hard, because pants usually use no more than 15-20 ml of oil.

What makes work worse

Contrary to popular belief, the quality of the fork’s performance deteriorates not due to the degradation of some lubricating properties of the oil, but precisely due to the ingress of dirt and dust into the fork. Dirt mixed with oil forms an abrasive, which slowly but surely begins to rip off the protective coating from the legs and bosses of the fork. If you want your fork to serve you for a long time and efficiently, then it is necessary that dirt does not get inside the fork.