How To Lubricate Front Shock Absorbers On A Bicycle

Main run carriage

We can say that this is the “main” here of the bike. It is from her that the impulse is “distributed” to other elements. Therefore, the speed, ease, and comfort of the stroke depend on the state of the carriage. The carriage elements are:

  • Cups,
  • Actually here,
  • Bearings.

How To Lubricate Front Shock Absorbers On A Bicycle

Another, “thick” grease is put into the carriage, not the kind that drips onto the chain or cables.

Ropes

The bike has several cable ones, which transmit the force from the shifters and brake levers to the front and rear derailleurs, as well as to disc brakes or to V. brake. If there is accumulated dirt between the jacket and the cable, or the surfaces are dry, the control may “jam”. This leads to untimely gear changes and even to the impossibility of emergency braking.

To lubricate the cable entry and exit points from the jacket, apply a couple of drops of lubricant, then “work” with the shifter lever or the brake handle. This allows you to lubricate evenly and to a considerable depth.

Front fork damping system

It is the presence of a shock absorber that allows the biker NOT to pay attention to obstacles and makes the bike passable. A good shock absorber resists the reaction of the support to the front wheel in a timely manner, so the fork must be kept in good condition.

Normally, you need to lubricate the “legs” of the plug after 150-200 kilometers, after 700 kilometers (on average) the oil seals are disassembled and lubricated, and annually or after a run of 3-4 thousand kilometers. Changing the oil in the shock absorbers completely.

Better show all fork care on. Than describe it in detail in text. For example, here you can see all the preventive maintenance operations for the front fork and shock absorbers:

Wheel axle bearings

If the grease has dried out, there is resistance to the wheel movement, increased noise level, and when the bearing is destroyed, a “backlash” appears in the wheel, and even wheel jamming can occur.
The bearing lubrication scheme is identical to that of the carriage bearings.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain

We proceed as follows:

  • By increasing the chain tension, move it to the corresponding large sprockets;
  • We thoroughly clean the chain from dirt, you can use a rag, press it against the free section of the bicycle chain and twist the pedal;
  • Then we lubricate the chain, it is better to apply lubricant over the top point of the roller (if the bike is standing with its wheels up). Make sure one drop falls on each link.
  • When the entire chain is lubricated, you need to intensively turn the pedals in the opposite direction for a minute. “idle” of the chain, and then, having selected the average speed, turn the bicycle chain in the forward direction.
  • At the final stage, remove all excess oil from the outside with a soft clean rag, since the main action of the lubricant is to work on the inner joints of the links, and from the outside, ordinary grease “clings” to dust, poplar fluff and contaminates the rollers and rear sprockets with its deposits. Therefore, do not be afraid to rub the chain properly.

In addition to lubrication, you need to monitor the “mileage” of the chain. On average, it needs to be replaced after every 1500. 2000 km for the following reasons:

  • She starts to sag;
  • Fuzzy gear shifting;
  • The extended chain will damage the cassette sprockets on the rear wheel.

Also, the question often arises about how often to lubricate the chain.?

There are no uniform standards. It all depends on the feelings of the bike owner:

  • If resistance or crunch appears in the circuit;
  • After driving through dust and sand;
  • After any walk that exceeds 3-5 hours.

Some lubricate the chain after 100 km of run, regardless of operating conditions. This is probably the most correct decision, since PLEASE READ to the regularity of maintenance.

How to properly lubricate a mountain bike?

The bicycle is one of such human mechanical inventions, in which there are elements that interact with each other by rolling some surfaces of the other (wheel hubs, main carriage), by means of a chain transmission and by entering one smaller cylindrical surface into another. this is the mechanism of shock absorption front fork.

Despite the fact that bearings significantly reduce friction, proper lubrication of all THESE elements is necessary: ​​friction is reduced, movement is easier. This increases the service life of the parts. However, it is important to know how to lubricate your bike properly.

The better the bike, the better the factory lubricant, the longer it lasts. These mountain bike models include, for example, Merida, GT. For example, it is known that the 2009 GT Avalanche 2.0 can freely gain 10,000 km without any lubrication of the bushings and carriage, and there is no damage to the bearings. Of course, this does NOT mean that you need to give a damn about bike maintenance.

In the event that you buy “Auchan-bike”, then right after the purchase it will be correct to “open” all the units that need lubrication, check them and lubricate them again. Sometimes you need to replace something right away, for example, the rear bushing and bearings of the main carriage.

Probably not worth additionally specifying that Lubrication should only be carefully washed and, most importantly, Dried bike.

So which parts of the bike need lubrication and how is it done?

Here the regularity of lubrication of the bicycle chain depends on the ride comfort. the chain does NOT buzz, it switches easily and freely. As a rule, the need for lubrication arises if the chain begins to rustle, rattle, and it is also difficult to shift gears. This can be felt after intense driving in rain and muddy weather, after the chain is dry.

Front and rear derailleurs

The continuity of the bicycle procession depends on the clarity and consistency of their actions. Sometimes, especially when going uphill, switching should be done Immediately after the “afterburner”, in order not to change gears “vnatyag”, but on a free run. This often takes a fraction of a second, and the switches must work flawlessly so that the upward movement does not “bungled “.

Switches are ideally disassembled for lubrication. More details about maintenance and lubrication can be found here:

How to lubricate the carriage

Lubrication of the carriage on a bicycle is carried out by simply putting grease into the cups and on the surface of the bearings, on the bushing, and also by distributing them evenly. In addition, before lubricating the carriage, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the bearings and all cavities, the surface of the bushing, for example, with kerosene. It is flushing that will allow Subsequently to properly Lubricate the carriage.

Chain tensioning mechanism

Rear derailleur rollers. They are often “clogged” with deposits of grease and dirt that has thickened around the perimeter. They must be removed carefully, e.g. with a flat-blade screwdriver.

It is necessary to apply a dotted liquid lubricant to the roller axles to avoid squeaking and tight rotation. Only oiled, they are able to keep the chain taut.

How to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle

The most popular and cheapest shock absorbers are spring-elastomeric ones. This shock absorber is very simple in design: a polymer rod is inserted inside the steel spring, which dampens vibrations.

The second type is oil-spring, more modern and reliable. Due to its relative cheapness and simplicity of construction, it has become one of the most common in cycling.

And the third type is oil-air. It uses a compressed air cylinder instead of a spring. Due to the complexity of the design, it is better to repair them in specialized workshops, where they know exactly how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle.

Lubrication of shock absorbers

A poorly lubricated and NOT adjusted mechanism can not only make an unpleasant sound, but also make it difficult to control the bike, spoiling all the fun of sports. The ideal option is to externally clean the bicycle fork after every ride, and at least once a season. Lubricate the internal parts of the mechanism. The easiest way is to take the bike to a workshop, whose master knows exactly what to do, but experienced cyclists can try it themselves.

Spring and Elastomer Spring Shock Absorbers can be lubricated instead of disassembling the bike forks. For this, the grease is drawn into a syringe and poured under the boot. After that, the bike should be “rocked” and the excess oil removed with a napkin. But! This is a quick, hiking option, used when it is not possible to disassemble the bike even partially. According to the rules, you should first Unscrew the mounting bolts from the bottom, then Unscrew the Preload bolt, get the elastomer and the spring, Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the “pants”, that is, that part of the bicycle fork to which the wheel is attached. It is here that the most dirt is found and it is this part that most often needs repairs. Anthers are obtained from the last part (they can be easily picked up with a screwdriver).

READ  What Age Tricycle

Maintenance of the oil spring design is also simple. If the open oil bath method is used, then the oil can be simply drained and the parts cleaned. This system is perhaps the easiest to maintain, and inspection and minor repairs can be performed even at home. Things are a little more complicated with a closed oil bath. The oil in this design is in the capsule and changes along with the entire capsule. In contrast to the first option, a closed oil bath often requires more maintenance.

The most whimsical service is considered to be an oil-air shock absorber. To clean and lubricate it, you must:

  • Unscrew and clean the shock absorber. This will prevent debris from entering the air chamber;
  • Open valves and dishes pressure. If done correctly, the mechanism will be easy to compress and unclench;
  • Further, the mounting parts are removed from the shock absorber, and the air chamber itself is disassembled;
  • Then the oil seal should be removed. If any parts are damaged, it’s time to replace them or perform other repairs. If everything is intact, then old grease and mechanical impurities are removed, and you can start assembling the bicycle fork;
  • Fork oil is poured onto the shock absorber housing, placed vertically. Gaskets and seals are installed in place. The air chamber is pushed all the way so that air does NOT escape from it. It is better to add a little more oil, and only then screw it back to the shock absorber body;
  • Next, the shock absorber is inflated to the desired pressure and installed in place.

There is a saying in motorists: “The car loves affection, cleanliness and lubrication.” The same can be said for a bicycle, although it requires much less maintenance. If you know how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle, then this procedure will not seem long or laborious at all, and the iron horse runs without repair for more than one season.

How to replace a fork on a bicycle?

It is not recommended for an untrained and inexperienced user: if you can cope with simple care, then it is better to PROVIDE such a procedure to a qualified specialist. As a last resort, perform the replacement under the supervision of the master, following his recommendations.

How to assemble a bike fork?

The fork assembly takes place in the reverse order of the parsing process and it is impractical to describe it additionally. The main thing is to carefully follow the order of the described procedures.

Rear shock absorber creaks on a bike: what to do?

This complex detail includes a lot of different elements. The first thing to do when extraneous noise appears is to disassemble the unit and check for grease. If it dries, apply a new layer. Before doing this, be sure to Rinse and Dry all parts. The rear shock for the bike is then reassembled in reverse order. This procedure improves the smoothness of the interaction of the elements, extending their service life. All-purpose Teflon grease is suitable for all types of bikes. In addition, if squeaks appear, inspect the plug, as often the malfunction is associated with it.

In the predominant part of the shock absorbers there are tuning parameters, the correct adjustment of which makes it possible to better control the control and speed while driving. In addition, wear on the assembly is reduced. Consider the sequence and features of this operation.

Instructions on how to disassemble a mountain bike front fork

After such manipulations, your fork will become more noticeable and better. Such maintenance can be carried out before each season, spent half an hour, you can significantly extend the life of your front fork on a bike.

The main reasons for disassembling a bicycle fork are:

  • Repairs;
  • Adjustment;
  • Service (MOT)
  • Just see the device.

Modern front suspension forks come in different types. Inexpensive ones include spring-elastomeric ones, which are mainly put on budget mountain bikes: Ardis, formula, stealth (stels), forward, Cronus, etc.

Fork care is a guarantee of its “health

Bicycle fork should be lubricated once a season, but with heavy use this procedure may be necessary more often. The process of lubricating a spring-elastomer fork is extremely simple: oil is poured with a syringe under the boot, then the fork is developed, and the remaining lubricant is removed with a soft cloth. Teflon grease is best applied to the feet near the oil seals (aerosol grease is increasingly used).

Among the best lubricants, masters call silicone and transparent greases.

Just as important is forks to be clean: be sure to wipe the feet of the forks near the boots after each bike ride to prevent dirt from getting into the oil and preventing the bike from working properly.

Adjusting the bike fork begins with setting the sag, then rebound (if its adjustment is provided), under which the low-speed and high-speed compression will be adjusted. Experts note that the adjustment should be carried out in stages: if you made an equal change, you checked the progress of the bike by walking, only then change the next parameter. If you do not adhere to this recommendation, then the owner risks missing out on the difference in travel and lubricating the effect of the fork adjustment.

How to lubricate the front shock absorbers on a bicycle. Setting the preload

It is best to do this work together, but one can do it quite well. The first step is to measure the inner part, which is a shiny element, moved in the middle of the case. The resulting value is divided by 4. For optimal functionality, a subsidence of 25% is required. On downhill mountain bikes this parameter can be 30%.

Almost any modern bicycle rear shock is equipped with a small inflatable ring or a special stopper that serves to control sagging. If there is such an element, you can tie an elastic band. It is not recommended to use a cable for this, as it collects dirt and scratches the surface. As a result, it may be necessary not only to repair, but also to replace the rear shock absorber on the bike. The compression damping switch is set to the descent mode, the ring is removed, the bike is neatly placed on a flat surface. After that, you should take a riding position. In order to correctly select a constant weight, during the procedure, try not to be afraid of the bike.

Grease

How to lubricate the rear shock on a bike? There are particular difficulties in this process. Oil is poured into the fork and liquid lubricant is poured directly into the damping elements. The shock absorber is pre-disassembled, all parts are washed and thoroughly dried. Then a layer of suitable lubricant is applied, after which the assembly is carried out.

If there is a squeak problem in the plug, disassemble the part as follows:

  • Element Clean, dismantle the wheel.
  • The bolts holding the fork in the rods are unscrewed, the regulator is removed.
  • Next, remove the brake system.
  • Remains of old grease are removed from the rods.
  • Dismantle the stuffing box rings.
  • The inner cavities of the fork are carefully wiped.
  • Grease is applied to the oil seals, oil is poured into the pants of the element.
  • Assemble the assembly in reverse order.

As experts recommend, in order to maintain the bike in optimal condition, it is advisable to lubricate the shock absorbers every day when riding in the rain and once a week if the weather is sunny. As processing materials Use special aerosol sprays, manufacturer’s recommended oil, or universal Teflon grease.

Compression and damping

The rear shock absorber for a bicycle, depending on the modification, is equipped with a CTD switch or suspension (damping) settings. In the first case, it is enough to adjust the element according to the surrounding landscape.

If there are settings, proceed as follows:

  • Pay attention to the number of adjustment range modes. To do this, scroll the disc back and forth, counting the clicks produced.
  • If you do NOT want to experiment with finding the optimal value, set the dial to medium.
  • Extreme settings are very rarely suitable for athletes.
  • When driving, memorize the route and the necessary setting values ​​in order to determine the process of suspension functioning.

How to lubricate front shocks on a bike.

Above, we covered why the rear shock on a bike squeaks and how to fix this problem. Timely lubrication will extend the service life of parts, improve ride comfort and eliminate extraneous noise. Following these recommendations, it is also easy to make the correct adjustment of the shock absorber, which optimizes the movement process, depending on the weight of the cyclist and the characteristics of the road used.

The main reasons for disassembling a bicycle fork are:

  • Repairs;
  • Adjustment;
  • Service (MOT)
  • Just see the device.

Modern front suspension forks come in different types. Inexpensive ones include spring-elastomeric ones, which are mainly put on budget mountain bikes: Ardis, formula, stealth (stels), forward, Cronus, etc.

Similar articles

The bicycle is a unique mechanical invention of mankind. And, of course, it needs lubrication to improve its performance. Proper lubrication of all moving parts is essential to reduce friction between them and facilitate movement. Therefore, beginners ask themselves: when and how to do it correctly.?

READ  How To Remove The Eight Rear Wheel Of A Bicycle

Special oils, liquid in consistency, are suitable for lubrication of all types of chains, damping systems. The structure of the oil penetrates well into hard-to-reach places, ensuring in the future the smooth operation of bicycle assemblies and components.

When to tidy up the bike better?
Do not forget that it is imperative to clean the body of the part from dirt before lubricating. To do this, you will need the following necessary tools and tools: a bucket of very hot water, car shampoo or dishwashing detergent, brushes, sponges, an old toothbrush for hard-to-reach places, narrow flat screwdrivers, a degreaser, and rags. Rinse the bike and let it dry for a few hours or wipe it with a rag. Only then do we start the procedure for lubricating parts.

Fast cleaning
This procedure serves as an intermediate between major cleanings. This can be the removal of dirt from the chain without directly dismantling it. To do this, you can wash the chain from dirt with a rag and a brush, or use a special machine to clean the chain. It all depends on the possibilities of your budget.

Major cleaning
This requires removing the chain from the bike. Depending on whether there is a connecting link on the chain or not, squeezing may additionally be required. After dismantling the chain, place it in a container with a cleaning agent and, using a brush and rags, wash it to maximum cleanliness.

It is better to change the water in the container after each remedy. In addition to the chain, other important components should be well cleaned. For convenience, it is recommended to remove the rear wheel in order to wash the cassette and disassemble the rear derailleur foot with rollers, then get to the tensioner roller, in the case of the tensioner itself installed on the bike.

Cleaners and lubricants
Experienced cyclists identify several topical products for excellent dirt and dirt removal from the bike.

WD-40
Sprayer with fine and long tubular nozzle. A huge plus of the tool is easy access to labor-intensive component connections. Will help remove rust and remove old grease from the surface.

Two-component aerosol
Ideal for cleaning and lubricating switches, threads and cables. The aerosol can is adapted to work even in hard-to-reach places to wrap around bicycle parts. If you need to Disconnect the Broken Parts, use LM40 and LM47 Sprays. Among the key ingredients is kerosene. It is this substance that will gently make this difficult procedure. The surplus can be removed with a cloth.

Liquid oil
Universal product for all types of chains, shock absorbers. The structure of the oil envelops the surface of the treated area 100%. It is characterized by a long-lasting effect for the smooth operation of parts. The disadvantage is a strong thickening of the consistency in the cold and the likely collection of dirt when riding in bad weather.

Calcium-based lubricants
A popular type of grease for the care of all kinds of parts and assemblies. The advantage of such a lubricant is stability on the surface of the parts (the formation of a protective layer for excellent bike performance). Unlike lithium products, they have a high level of adhesion and anti-corrosion effect. Bicycle “cosmetics” with m calcium DO NOT react with aluminum, therefore they are more expensive in price and are used to care for expensive bikes. The tool will take care of sealing the joints.

Lithium greases
They will help to keep the bike undercarriage in perfect order. These greases are suitable for the maintenance of bearing axles and carriage. A substance called cast gives the product a specific slip, It does not thicken at temperatures up to 50 ° C and does NOT liquefy when heated to 150 ° C. Negative nuance. a high level of water solubility.

Silicone lubricants
Easy to apply to bike parts. Able to “repel” dust and water, but dry faster.

Teflon based lubricants
The composition uses a substance for all types of chains. The fluid has an extremely low coefficient of friction when it comes into contact with the solid surfaces of the chain. For better penetration into hard-to-reach areas, Teflon grease is diluted with oil or solvent. The ratio of the components depends on the operating conditions (dry asphalt road, dusty primers or wet roads). It exists in the form of an aerosol can, but its use is fraught with too fast consumption, therefore it is better to give preference to a liquid analogue.

Wax lubricants
Can last for several months in dry riding conditions. Frequent mechanical cleaning of the chain is NOT required. But the wax itself can fall off over time in the form of scales and flakes. It is difficult to treat hard-to-reach areas with this type of lubricant.

Graphite greases
Not a bad remedy for congested nodes. An important plus is the long-term effect. Minus. the grease very much stains everything that comes into contact with it.

How to properly carry out the lubrication procedure?
Start Lubricating your bike from any node. Cassettes and chain sprockets Lubricate several times and turn the crank arms counterclockwise. A small amount of lubricant is sufficient. Remember, it doesn’t have to be too thick. Your comfort of cycling depends on the regularity of the procedure. the chain will not buzz, you will immediately feel the ease and freedom in gear shifting. In addition to lubricating, watch the “mileage” of the bicycle chain. On average, after every two thousand kilometers, a part requires replacement due to sagging, unclear gear changes and damage to the cassette sprockets on the rear wheel.

To lubricate the brakes, clamp them and apply the agent to the cable and the joint, the point of entry of the cable into the jacket. If your bike is equipped with V-brakes, try not to get oil on the rim. otherwise, the rim must be wiped off, otherwise the braking performance will be reduced to zero. Aerosols for a more metered spray are best suited for lubrication. Apply a drop of oil to the outlet and inlet of the cables.

The carriage is one of the key nodes of the bicycle, which sets the working impulse to the second parts of the device. The speed and ease of movement depend on her condition. You will need a thicker lubricant to lubricate the carriage than a chain or cable.

Wheel axle bearings require frequent lubrication. The care scheme for them is identical to the previous one.

All moving parts must be lubricated in the front and rear derailleur. They are often clogged with deposits from the thickened mass of grease and dirt around the perimeter. They can be carefully removed with a flat screwdriver. Move the switch in different directions to see which parts require more lubrication. Remember to machine the rear derailleur roller bearings. they directly affect pedaling.

To process the rollers, you need to apply a liquid agent on the wasps to get rid of them from creaking and tight rotation. Rollers in a lubricated state are capable of turning with minimal resistance. For the procedure, experts recommend using aerosol products. When lubricating the chain, it is important to apply lubricant to each link and preferably in a thin layer. If you are using a liquid lubricant, you can use a syringe or oiler for more accurate application.

Taking care of the front shock absorber allows you to travel more comfortably over difficult terrain. A good shock absorber works out both small and large bumps, so you should keep it in good condition. Depending on the weather conditions, the suspension fork is filled with oil of a certain viscosity, the same is true for the rear shock absorber.

After lubrication, it is worth scrolling the pedals, pressing the brake levers a couple of times, shifting gears. Remove excess grease so that She does not collect dust afterwards. When using aerosol, it is necessary to make sure that the jet gets into all hard-to-reach places. Avoid getting oil on tires, rims, disc brake rotors and other parts.

Chain cleaner: needed or not?
But not all newfangled devices are actually very useful. At first glance, this device can make life easier for a novice cyclist and will be completely unnecessary for a cyclist. In any case, do not leave the chain without proper care.

There are several types of bicycle chain cleaning machines. They differ in configuration, price and durability. The most affordable models from Bike, Barbieri, Hand and Birzman are machines with three cleaning wheels and a convenient reservoir. A more expensive machine from Kettenmax has all the necessary additional components in its arsenal. In fact, the final choice will depend on your financial capabilities. The key advantage of the machine is the ability to maintain the chain without removing the part from the bike.

To start the procedure, you need to place the chain directly into the machine. The container is filled in advance to the middle of the rollers with flushing solution (the norm is 50 ml). After that, smooth pedaling is ensured. Hold the clipper and the bike at the same time. For the procedure in a residential area, it is better to protect the floor with pieces of cloth or cover it with paper. The cleaned chain must dry before it can be lubricated.

Optimal lubrication intervals
There are no clearly defined standards. it all depends on the owner of the bike. It is enough to do the lubrication procedure a couple of times a season to prolong the longevity of the bike. at the beginning and at the end. After heavy extreme loads, it is advisable to wash the bike and DO NOT be lazy to re-lubricate parts and connections. Some cyclists lubricate the chain after every hundreds of kilometers, regardless of weather conditions.

READ  How The Wheels Of The Bike Should Be Inflated

What can not be lubricated by a bicycle chain
Experts strongly DO NOT recommend using thick lubricants. this will prevent the agent from penetrating into all the right places. Another drawback is the adhesion of road dust. DO NOT use concentrated grease and lithol, sunflower oil.

It is advisable to avoid the use of automotive gear oils, sewing machine lubricating oils. They attract dust. after two trips you will have to re-clean the dirty chain. Also, such oils are very afraid of moisture, which cannot be avoided in rainy weather.

Outcome
Remember that the market today is full of bike cleaning fluids. That’s all well and good, but car shampoo and hot water will have the same effect. Hot water is the key to removing dirt, and all cleaning fluids simply speed up the process and save time.

If you love your bike, polish it with a soft cloth and paint polish. As a result, it will look “shiny” and become more resistant to dirt sticking.

Original publication. in cortobike.Ru

Removing the fork from a bike?

To remove the fork from the bike for subsequent maintenance or complete replacement, it is necessary to turn the bike upside down, release the brake (if it is a rim one) and remove the front wheel. At the second stage, the steering wheel with the stem is removed, then the steering tube.

After that, we remove the plug, it is extremely important NOT to lose the balls from the bearings. Then, the conical support ring is removed from the fork stem (usually with the help of a sharp measure, gently squeezing it from all sides). Then we have a plug ready for service.

Individual users are advised to sort out even new, just purchased forks, explaining this by the need for individual debugging of the element.

How to disassemble a bicycle fork (using the example of a spring-electric fork) read below:

  • It is necessary to unscrew the lower fastening bolts using hexagons;
  • Unscrew the bolt that regulates the force of the Preload spring (pay attention to the stroke of the adjustment bolt. this is how the bolt compresses and expands the spring)
  • Get out the elastomer, which limits the movement of the spring (in some cases, it is allowed to cut the elastomer to the desired size)
  • It is necessary to Unscrew the bolts and carefully remove the “pants”, Watch out for the mud, oil and water flowing from there;
  • The oil seals (Anthers) are removed from the “pants” with a screwdriver, and Bashing is easy to get out, turned them around its axis.

This completes the fork disassembly process and begins the process of caring for the parts received: a thorough inspection of the elements for damage, cracks and other things is necessary, thoroughly rinse with kerosene and lubricate the elements that need it. It is important to lubricate the springs with heavy grease for best fork performance.

Is it worth it to repair a bicycle forks yourself?

Of course, NOT having the appropriate experience and skills in bicycle repair, it is better not to take risks and turn to competent specialists. But over time, every cyclist who is more or less interested in his vehicle begins to understand the intricacies, remember the name of the parts and their functions, and feel the root of the problems. Therefore, over time, even such a difficult task as repairing a plug can become an easy procedure.

Difficulties may arise due to the design features of the fork itself or its breakage.

As a rule, owners are divided into two types: some prefer to ride a bike until all systems fail and it will be impossible to save such a “patient”, others. who carefully monitor the condition of the bike and prevent any breakdowns.

Setting the preload

It is best to do this work together, but one can do it quite well. The first step is to measure the inner part, which is a shiny element, moved in the middle of the case. The resulting value is divided by 4. For optimal functionality, a subsidence of 25% is required. On downhill mountain bikes this parameter can be 30%.

Almost any modern bicycle rear shock is equipped with a small inflatable ring or a special stopper that serves to control sagging. If there is such an element, you can tie an elastic band. It is not recommended to use a cable for this, as it collects dirt and scratches the surface. As a result, it may be necessary not only to repair, but also to replace the rear shock absorber on the bike. The compression damping switch is set to the descent mode, the ring is removed, the bike is neatly placed on a flat surface. After that, you should take a riding position. In order to correctly select a constant weight, during the procedure, try not to be afraid of the bike.

Compression

The adjustment, which, in contrast to the previous one, allows the compression speed of the fork to be reduced. Unfortunately, in practice it is rare.

Preload

This setting controls the stiffness of the spring. It is also called negative spring travel. Normally, this indicator in the forks does not exceed ten percent of the gait. Usually adjusted once, based on the weight of the athlete. It only needs to be increased when changing the riding style, for example, downhill, which requires increased rigidity.

Lockout

Complete locking of the fork in one position. Sometimes useful, but more often this function is included in the previous one.

Spring forks

The cheapest and lowest quality forks. Usually them, but even this amount spent on buying a spring fork is unlikely to justify itself. In fact, it is NOT a shock absorber, since it does not dampen vibrations, moreover, it often has the property of a Riot of salesmen. The maximum for which such a fork is suitable is a children’s bike for riding in the yard. When riding, the bike and muscles will tense so much that the fatigue of the metal and your muscles will accumulate many times faster (and this is bad).

Front fork: device and types

The front suspension fork is one of the most important components of a mountain bike. Its main task is to be a shock absorber, otherwise a damper (a device for damping vibrations and vibrations).

The principle of operation of the shock absorber is reduced to the fact that it quickly compresses (when hitting an obstacle) and slowly unfolds (so that the reaction force does NOT throw you out of the saddle). Most often, the fork is already installed on the bike when buying, but its quality does not always meet all the requirements of the cyclist. To choose the right fork that suits you, you should familiarize yourself with the differences in the types and methods of operation of modern suspension forks.

Front fork for bike. Selection and customization

Main page → Selection → Brands and types → Front fork for a bicycle. Selection and customization

Extension control

Suspension fork travel adjustment with locking option. A useful setting when climbing hills or actively pedaling on a flat surface. In “steep” shock absorbers, this adjustment can memorize several positions, and in addition to gait, adjust the speed of the fork.

Air Plugs

In these shock absorbers, air is both a spring and a damper. The principle of their operation is similar to oil-air, but. You can recognize this plug by the AT or HT marking, they are manufactured by RST.

For an aggressive riding style, the air forks are still rather weak. they wear out too quickly, but they are quite suitable for a measured ride. The only drawback is that they are short-lived, so if you plan on long-term use, it is better to turn to other options.

Oil spring forks

They are considered the best type of shock absorbers and are used in the most expensive bicycle models (excluding the most expensive bicycle in the world). The damper, as in the oil-air forks, is the oil capsule, and the spring is made of steel. for these springs start at 6,000 rubles, but their quality increases in proportion to the price. These forks are unpretentious, suitable for any riding style, but inferior to oil-air forks in the range of adjustments.

By the way, we recommend:

The oil is an excellent damper, as it itself has lubricating properties, which greatly simplifies maintenance. But simplifies does not mean completely excludes. Therefore, it is worth knowing what are the advantages and disadvantages of the existing methods of pouring oil into the shock absorber.

Open oil bath. makes it easy to change summer oil to winter oil and vice versa; allows for rebound adjustment by increasing or decreasing the viscosity of the oil, and the rigidity. by changing its level in the shock absorbers; does not require lubrication of internal parts; usually completed with high-quality oil seals and a boot, which allows less frequent maintenance.

Closed oil bath. oil change only when changing the capsule, there is no way to adjust the rebound; the rigidity of such a fork will be higher; requires frequent maintenance to lubricate internal parts; cheap components are often found.

Obviously, in most parameters, a closed oil bath is inferior to an open one, so you should pay attention to this characteristic if you want the fork to serve for a long time.