How to Lubricate Bicycle Cables

How to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle

The most popular and cheapest shock absorber is spring-elastomeric. This shock absorber is very simple in design: a polymer rod is inserted inside the steel spring, which dampens vibrations.

The second type is oil-spring, more modern and reliable. Due to its relative cheapness and simplicity of construction, it has become one of the most common in cycling.

And the third type is oil-air. It uses a compressed air cylinder instead of a spring. Due to the complexity of the design, it is better to repair them in specialized workshops, where they know exactly how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle.

Lubrication of shock absorbers

A poorly oiled and misaligned mechanism can not only make an unpleasant sound, but also make it difficult to control the bike, spoiling all the enjoyment of sports. The ideal option is to externally clean the fork after each ride, and at least once a season to lubricate the internal parts of the mechanism. The easiest way is to take the bike to a workshop, whose master knows exactly what to do, but experienced cyclists can try it themselves.

Springs and Elastomer Springs can be lubricated without disassembling the fork. For this, the grease is drawn into a syringe and poured under the boot. After that, the bike should be “rocked” and the excess oil removed with a napkin. But! This is a quick, hiking option used when the bike cannot be disassembled even partially. According to the rules, you should first unscrew the mounting bolts from the bottom, then unscrew the Preload bolt, get the elastomer and the spring, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the “pants”, that is, the part of the bicycle fork to which the wheel is attached. This is where the most dirt is found and it is this part that most often needs repairs. Anthers are taken from the last part (they can be easily picked up with a screwdriver).

Maintenance of the oil spring design is also simple. If the open oil bath method is used, then the oil is simply drained and the parts cleaned. This system is perhaps the easiest to maintain, and inspection and minor repairs can be performed even at home. A little more complicated is the case with a closed oil bath. The oil in this design is in the capsule and changes along with the entire capsule. In contrast to the first option, a closed oil bath often requires more maintenance.

The most whimsical service is considered to be an oil-air shock absorber. To clean and lubricate it, you must:

  • Unscrew and clean the shock absorber. This will prevent debris from entering the air chamber;
  • Open valves and relieve pressure. If done correctly, the mechanism will be easy to compress and unclench;
  • Further, the mounting parts are removed from the shock absorber, and the air chamber itself is disassembled;
  • Then the oil seal should be removed. If any parts are damaged, it’s time to replace them or perform other repairs. If everything is intact, then old grease and mechanical impurities are removed, and you can start assembling the bicycle fork;
  • Fork oil is poured onto the shock absorber body, placed vertically. The gaskets and seals are refitted. The air chamber is pushed all the way so that no air escapes from it. It is better to add a little more oil, and only then screw it back to the shock absorber body;
  • Next, the shock absorber is inflated to the desired pressure and installed in place.

Motorists have a saying: “The car loves affection, cleanliness and lubrication.” The same can be said for a bicycle, although it requires much less maintenance. If you know how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle, then this procedure will not seem long or laborious at all, and the iron horse runs without repair for more than one season.

How to lubricate the front shock absorbers on a bicycle. How to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle

The most popular and cheapest shock absorber is spring-elastomeric. This shock absorber is very simple in design: a polymer rod is inserted inside the steel spring, which dampens vibrations.

The second type is oil-spring, more modern and reliable. Due to its relative cheapness and simplicity of construction, it has become one of the most common in cycling.

And the third type is oil-air. It uses a compressed air cylinder instead of a spring. Due to the complexity of the design, it is better to repair them in specialized workshops, where they know exactly how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle.

Lubrication of shock absorbers

A poorly oiled and misaligned mechanism can not only make an unpleasant sound, but also make it difficult to control the bike, spoiling all the enjoyment of sports. The ideal option is to externally clean the bike fork after every ride, and at least once a season to lubricate the internal parts of the mechanism. The easiest way is to take the bike to a workshop, whose master knows exactly what to do, but experienced cyclists can try it themselves.

Spring and Elastomer Spring Shock Absorbers can be lubricated without disassembling the bike fork. For this, the grease is drawn into a syringe and poured under the boot. After that, the bike should be “rocked” and the excess oil removed with a napkin. But! This is a quick, hiking option used when the bike cannot be disassembled even partially. According to the rules, you should first unscrew the mounting bolts from the bottom, then unscrew the Preload bolt, get the elastomer and the spring, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the “pants”, that is, that part of the bicycle fork to which the wheel is attached. It is here that the most dirt is found and it is this part that most often needs repairs. Anthers are taken from the last part (they can be easily picked up with a screwdriver).

Maintenance of the oil spring design is also simple. If the open oil bath method is used, then the oil can be simply drained and the parts cleaned. This system is perhaps the easiest to maintain, and inspection and minor repairs can be performed even at home. A little more complicated is the case with a closed oil bath. The oil in this design is in the capsule and changes along with the entire capsule. In contrast to the first option, a closed oil bath often requires more maintenance.

The most whimsical service is considered to be an oil-air shock absorber. To clean and lubricate it, you must:

  • Unscrew and clean the shock absorber. This will prevent debris from entering the air chamber;
  • Open valves and relieve pressure. If done correctly, the mechanism will be easy to compress and unclench;
  • Further, the mounting parts are removed from the shock absorber, and the air chamber itself is disassembled;
  • Then the oil seal should be removed. If any parts are damaged, it’s time to replace them or perform other repairs. If everything is intact, then old grease and mechanical impurities are removed, and you can start assembling the bicycle fork;
  • Fork oil is poured onto the shock absorber body, placed vertically. Gaskets and seals are installed in place. The air chamber is pushed all the way so that no air escapes from it. It is better to add a little more oil, and only then screw it back to the shock absorber body;
  • Next, the shock absorber is inflated to the desired pressure and installed in place.

Motorists have a saying: “The car loves affection, cleanliness and lubrication.” The same can be said for a bicycle, although it requires much less maintenance. If you know how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle, then this procedure will not seem long or laborious at all, and the iron horse runs without repair for more than one season.

How to remove, disassemble and lubricate a bicycle fork

If you do not know how to remove and disassemble a mountain bike suspension fork for maintenance, repair or replacement, then this article will help you find out what you need for this, and how to do it at home. Also here will be considered such issues: how and how to lubricate the front fork, maintenance intervals and other tips on this topic. All this will be presented in the form of detailed instructions with pictures for each action, as well as a video on disassembling a bicycle suspension fork. In this article we will analyze the RST GILA 100 mm spring-elastomer fork with disc brake mountings.

Why remove and disassemble the bike fork

A bicycle fork, like all other components, can be replaced, repaired or serviced. Therefore, before proceeding with these procedures, we need to remove it from the bike, and in some cases disassemble the shock absorber for parts. In what cases will we have to remove it? First of all, this is when it is replaced by another. Secondly, it may be necessary to replace bearings and / or support cups, apply new lubricant, and also, there are times when it is necessary to align the steering tube or perform other repair work.

Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.

How to remove a bicycle fork

Below you will find detailed instructions for dismantling the front suspension fork with explanatory pictures.

  • First of all, we carry out preparatory work, namely, we unscrew everything that is attached to the plug. In our case, this is the brake caliper, as well as the front disc brake hose, which is clamped to the fork legs. If you have V-brakes installed, then dismantle them. This also applies to the speed sensor from the bike computer, front fender, etc.
  • We unscrew the bolts securing the stem to the steering tube, and then unscrew the bicycle fork anchor bolt.
  • Carefully remove the steering wheel together with the stem and lower it down. At this stage, you should act carefully so as not to damage the hydraulic lines or accidentally hitting the metal parts of the steering wheel on the frame, so as not to scratch the latter.
  • We remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve (cone). To do this, carefully pry it with a small flat screwdriver in the area of ​​the cut. Then we take out the upper rolling ring and the upper bearing. All these actions are illustrated by the pictures below.
  • All operations have been completed and now you can carefully remove the steering tube from the glass. After that, it remains for us to get the bearing, the lower rolling ring and remove the front wheel. To do this, we loosen the eccentric or unscrew the fixing bolts (depending on the type of attachment). This completes the process of removing the bike fork.
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How to disassemble a bicycle suspension fork

After we have removed the suspension fork from the bike, old used grease should be removed from all of the above components, namely the bearings, cups and raceways, as well as the steering tube and other areas. It’s not worth applying a new one yet, we will add it back to the glass at the stage of installing the plug.

Next, let’s start disassembling the shock absorber for further lubricant replacement.

  • Turn the fork over and unscrew the mounting bolts.
  • We remove the pants from the legs of the fork. If necessary, remove the oil seals.
  • We remove used lubricant from all accessible surfaces. This procedure can be left for later and performed after complete disassembly, but it is preferable to do this immediately in order to avoid oily marks on clothes, tools, etc. Do not forget to remove dirt and grease from the bicycle fork cuffs, as well as inside the pants themselves.
  • Then remove the lower travel stops and stop stops. To do this, we apply a little effort and pull them off the rods.
  • We unscrew the adjustments on each of the fork legs. They are unscrewed with a special key, which, unfortunately, we did not have. Therefore, we had to make our own self-made key for these cases. We will attach a photo below, suddenly someone will come in handy. We take out the springs with caps and elastomers, as well as two rods (one from each leg).
  • Remove old grease from all fork surfaces.

This completes the disassembly of the bicycle fork shock absorber. The next step is to apply new grease. What can be used as a lubricant, we will consider below.

How and how can you lubricate a bicycle suspension fork

I use Litol-24 grease to lubricate all of the bike’s front fork assemblies, including both the shock absorber and the head tube bearings. It is believed that it negatively affects aluminum parts when moisture enters. But using it for five seasons, no negative consequences were noticed. The advantages of this grease include good temperature resistance. It does not thicken both in severe frost up to 50 C, and in extreme heat (up to 150 C).

Many people advise pouring liquid machine oils, sewing machine oil, and others into your pants. Personally, in my experience, there was a deterioration in the work of the fork shock absorber (jerks were observed during compression and rebound of the spring). And if liquid oils worked better, manufacturers would fill them in initially, which they don’t.

We figured out how to lubricate the bicycle fork. Next, let’s see how to do this. We apply grease to the spring with excess (we ram the lubricant between the spring rings), the excess will come out through the hole under the stem and, if there is an excess in the pants, it will be squeezed out through the stuffing box seals (but you shouldn’t overdo it either). We also apply grease to the grooves of the cuffs and add forks to the pants. We lubricate all rubbing parts with a thin layer.

Before installing the plug into the glass, do not forget to lubricate the bearings, rings and cups.

This completes the lubrication process and you can go back to assembling and installing the bicycle fork.

How to assemble and put the plug back

The assembly and installation process of the bicycle suspension fork is carried out in reverse order. The only thing that should be done carefully and carefully to avoid incorrect installation of components. After you have installed the assembled fork back on the bike, secured the stem, be sure to check that there is no play in the steering tube in the frame glass. If they are observed, then be sure to eliminate them before the trip.

After you set everything up and start riding, for the first time there will be an abundant release of lubricant through the cuffs of the bicycle fork pants. Don’t worry, this is normal. Over time, excess oil will be squeezed out, and this process will stop. During this period, do not be lazy, and do not forget to wash off excess lubricant after each trip.

Fork maintenance intervals

The frequency of changing the lubricant of a bicycle fork depends not least on the road surface on which you are riding. If your routes contain an abundance of dust, mud, sand and other abrasive material, then the frequency of service should be increased. Here are the average figures after which maintenance should be performed.

Approximately every 700-800 km, the oil seals should be disassembled and lubricated, and every 4000-5000 km the entire fork is moved and lubricated.

As you may have noticed, removing, disassembling and lubricating a mountain or city bike suspension fork at home is not that difficult. The main thing is to treat this process responsibly and do everything consistently. The better you take care of your iron horse, the longer it will delight you with its trouble-free work.

How and how to lubricate a bicycle fork?

Every part of the bike has its own functional meaning. The fork is designed to smooth out shocks and minimize stress on the arms. By performing the amortization task, it extends the useful life of the frame. The fork is a fairly strong part, but it needs periodic preventive measures. This article explains how to lubricate a bicycle front fork.

Signs of dysfunction

In order for the fork to work for a long time, the bicycle owner must from time to time service this important part.

The necessary preventive work includes:

  • applying lubricant;
  • replacement of oil seals;
  • on the alignment of the steering tube;
  • replacement of bearings.

Particular importance is attached to lubrication. It provides superior cushioning and reduced wear on components. It is performed every 400 km. If the bike is not used as intensively, then once a season this procedure must still be performed. Oil seals are lubricated separately after 700 km of run.

These are very average recommendations. It all depends on how you use your bike. If it is taken out on difficult routes daily, then lubrication should be performed more often.

The service life of bike parts is reduced by poor-quality surface or relief track. It wears out especially quickly when driving on sand and abrasive materials. Experienced cyclists can identify fork dysfunction by hearing characteristic sounds. The need to debug or replace worn-out elements is determined by a knock or squeak during riding.

In addition, typical wear symptoms are:

  • backlash;
  • tight adjustability;
  • difficult steering wheel;
  • jamming.

Finally, visual defects can be found as a result of daily visual inspection. If you find cracks in your legs or pants, urgently take action.

Withdrawal rules

A fork is a multi-component element. Attached to it are the speed sensor, brake caliper, hydraulic line, fender, V-brake.

In order to remove it, you must sequentially perform the following steps:

  • remove the bolts that hold the stem on the rudder tube;
  • dismantle the anchor bolt;
  • dismantle the steering wheel with a stem (this must be done with the utmost care, since there is a danger of damaging the hydraulic line);
  • dismantle the spacer rings;
  • remove the guide sleeve;
  • remove the lower part of the handlebar from the retaining glass;
  • remove the bearing;
  • carefully remove the rolling ring.

After that, the eccentric is loosened and the wheel itself is removed.

The bike owner must have a complete set of screwdrivers. For example, to remove a guide sleeve, you need the most compact of them. Only with it can you pry the sleeve in the cutting area.

It is recommended to lay out all the dismantled elements in sequence. as they were removed. A tried and tested trick is to photograph every stage of the work. This will allow rewiring without error.

Disassembly rules

The lubrication procedure is still far from the start. It is performed at the very end when the removed and cleaned parts are inspected for suitability and defects.

In the meantime, all dismantled components should be freed from layers. Used grease tends to compress or shrink. This stage will take effort. Disassembly begins only after complete cleaning.

  • Removing bolts.
  • Dismantling of pants. The internal faces are checked immediately. They must also be freed from used grease.
  • Removing oil seals.
  • Removing the bottom stops. This action must be performed carefully, without exerting physical effort.
  • Removing stops.
  • Gradual weakening of the legs. This requires a special key.
  • Removing 2 rods.
  • Removing the spring.

The removed parts are also freed from old grease. To do this, you need to stock up on a large amount of rags and a plastic scraper in advance. It is undesirable to use metal objects for cleaning.

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Finally, the fork is fully prepared for the lubrication procedure.

To answer the question of how to lubricate a mountain bike fork, you need to familiarize yourself with all the proposals of specialists. This will make it possible to choose the best option.

All types of bicycle lubricants are classified as follows:

  • Thick. Benefit: Works well at high and low temperatures. Disadvantages: Able to attract dust. These include graphite compositions, as well as technical petroleum jelly.
  • Liquid. Advantage: ease of application. They work well at high and low temperatures. Disadvantages: a change in viscosity with a sharp temperature drop, the ability to drip. These include industrial oil.
  • Two-component. The composition contains a thick oil, as well as a solvent. Ideal for machining prefabricated mechanisms. These include wax and Teflon products. Silicone two-component lubricants are recommended for use on e-bikes. They act delicately, and the excess is easily removed.

So, the procedure begins with applying the product to the spring. The grease should literally be rammed between the rings. There is no need to worry about surplus formation. They seep through the packing holes. It is advisable to apply another layer to all grooves of the cuffs.

Elements in motion (rubbing) require a particularly thin layer. When the procedure is over, the installation of the plug begins in the reverse order.

Bicycle owners often ask how to lubricate a bike suspension fork without disassembling it? Industrial oil can be used as it is thinner. However, this will be a partial lubrication. It will only work to lubricate the legs of the bike fork.

Oil is applied drip at the point where the legs enter the pants. Then several back and forth movements are performed to push the oil further. Surplus funds are removed.

So, the procedure can be carried out independently if you have high-quality lubricant and a set of tools.

How to properly lubricate a mountain bike?

A bicycle is one of such human mechanical inventions, in which there are elements that interact with each other by rolling some surfaces relative to others (wheel hubs, main carriage), by means of a chain transmission and by entering one smaller cylindrical surface into another. this is the damping mechanism front fork.

Despite the fact that bearings significantly reduce friction, proper lubrication of all these elements is necessary: ​​friction is reduced, movement is easier. This increases the life of the parts. However, it is important to know how to lubricate your bike properly.

The better the bike, the better the factory lubricant, the longer it lasts. These mountain bike models include, for example, Merida, GT. For example, it is known that the 2009 GT Avalanche 2.0 can freely gain 10,000 km without any lubrication of the bushings and carriages, while there is no damage to the bearings. Of course, this does not mean that you should not give a damn about the maintenance of the bike.

In the event that you buy an “Auchan-bike”, then it will be correct to “open” all the units that need lubrication, check them and lubricate them again immediately after the purchase. Sometimes you need to replace something right away, for example, the rear bushing and bearings of the main carriage.

Probably you should not additionally indicate that you need to lubricate only a thoroughly washed and, most importantly, dried bike.

So which parts of the bike need lubrication and how is it done?

The ride comfort depends on the regular lubrication of the bicycle chain. the chain does not buzz, it switches easily and freely. As a rule, the need for lubrication arises if the chain begins to rustle, rattle, and it also becomes difficult to shift gears. This can be felt after intense driving in rain and muddy weather, after the chain is dry.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain

We proceed as follows:

  • increase the chain tension by moving it to the corresponding large sprockets;
  • thoroughly clean the chain from dirt, you can use a rag by pressing it against the free section of the bicycle chain and turning the pedal;
  • then we lubricate the chain, it is better to apply lubricant over the top point of the roller (if the bike is standing with its wheels up). Make sure one drop falls on each link.
  • When the whole chain is lubricated, you need to intensively turn the pedals in the opposite direction for a minute. the “idle” of the chain, and then, having selected medium speed, turn the bicycle chain in the forward direction.
  • At the final stage, use a soft clean rag to remove all excess oil from the outside, since the main action of the lubricant is to work on the inner joints of the links, and from the outside, ordinary grease “clings” dust, poplar fluff and contaminates the rollers and rear sprockets with its deposits. So don’t be afraid to rub the chain properly.

In addition to lubrication, you need to monitor the “mileage” of the chain. On average, it needs to be replaced after every 1500. 2000 km for the following reasons:

  • it starts to sag;
  • unclear gear changes;
  • the extended chain damages the cassette sprockets on the rear wheel.

Also, the question often arises about how often to lubricate the chain.?

There are no uniform standards. It all depends on the feelings of the bike owner:

  • if resistance or crunch appears in the circuit;
  • after driving through dust and sand;
  • after any walk that exceeds 3-5 hours.

Some lubricate the chain after 100 km of run, regardless of operating conditions. Probably this decision is the right one, as it teaches you to regular maintenance.

Chain tensioning mechanism

Rear derailleur rollers. They are often “clogged” by grease and dirt deposits that have thickened around the perimeter. They must be removed carefully, e.g. with a flat head screwdriver.

It is necessary to apply a dotted liquid lubricant on the roller axles to avoid squeaking and tight rotation. Only lubricated, they are able to keep the chain taut.

Ropes

The bike has several cables that transmit the force from the shifters and brake levers to the front and rear derailleurs, as well as to the disc brakes or V. brake. If dirt has accumulated between the jacket and the cable, or the surfaces are dry, then the control may “stick”. This leads to untimely gear changes and even to the impossibility of emergency braking.

To lubricate the cable entry and exit points from the jacket, apply a couple of drops of lubricant, then “work” with the shifter lever or the brake handle. This allows you to lubricate evenly and to a considerable depth.

Main run carriage

We can say that this is the “main” axis of the bicycle. It is from her that the impulse is “distributed” to other elements. Therefore, the speed, ease, and comfort of the movement depend on the state of the carriage. The carriage elements are:

A different, “thick” grease is put into the carriage, not the kind that drips onto the chain or cables.

How to lubricate the carriage

Lubrication of the carriage on a bicycle is done by simply placing grease in the cups and on the surface of the bearings, on the bushing, and also distributing them evenly. In addition, before lubricating the carriage, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the bearings and all cavities, the surface of the bushing, for example, with kerosene. It is flushing that will subsequently make it possible to properly lubricate the carriage.

Wheel axle bearings

If the grease has dried out, there is resistance to the wheel movement, an increased noise level, and when the bearing is destroyed, a “backlash” appears in the wheel, and even wheel jamming can occur. The bearing lubrication scheme is identical to that of the carriage bearings.

Front and rear derailleurs

The continuity of the cycle depends on the clarity and consistency of their actions. Sometimes, especially when going uphill, switching should be done immediately after the afterburner, in order to change gears not in tension, but on free speed. It often takes fractions of a second, and the switches must work flawlessly so that the upward movement does not “get bogged down”.

Switches are ideally disassembled for lubrication. details about maintenance and lubrication can be found here:

Front fork damping system

It is the presence of a shock absorber that allows the biker not to pay attention to obstacles and makes the bike passable. A good shock absorber resists the reaction of the support to the front wheel in a timely manner, so the fork must be kept in good condition.

Normally, it is necessary to lubricate the “legs” of the plug after 150-200 kilometers, after 700 kilometers (on average) the oil seals are disassembled and lubricated, and annually or after running 3-4 thousand kilometers. the oil in the shock absorber is completely replaced.

It is better to show all the care of the fork in the video than describe it in detail in text. For example, here you can see all the preventive maintenance operations for the front fork and shock absorbers:

About the types of lubricants

Greases with an increased m of any element. such as lithium or calcium.

Lithium greased. such as “Litol-24”, it is good to lubricate the bearing axles, carriage. It is lithium that gives the lubricant a specific sliding, and it exhibits antifriction properties. In addition, lubricants with the addition of lithium do not thicken in frost up to 50 degrees and do not liquefy even at midday temperature in the desert, since they can not change their properties when heated to 150 degrees. The negative side is a fairly high water solubility, therefore, the lubrication points must be covered with sealed anthers. In addition, this lubricant is not recommended to be applied to aluminum surfaces.

Calcium greases are greases and work well for a long time. An example of such a lubricant is Uniol. Unlike lithium, they have high adhesion, or adhesion to the surface, and hold for a long time. In addition, they help to resist corrosion in wet conditions. These lubricants are yellow or greenish. It is very important that they do not react with aluminum, unlike lithium greases. Therefore, their price is high and they can be used to lubricate expensive bikes.

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Aerosols are a special type of lubricant. which may contain several components, for example Teflon. Their advantage is the ability to penetrate into hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places, including due to adhesion and surface tension. Their predecessor is kerosene, which has a truly unmatched enveloping ability, even able to get out of the vessel. With the help of such lubricants it is possible to process cables, all types of threads, especially when loosening “heavy” and “stuck” connections. Examples of such greases are LM 40, LM 47 and others.

Perhaps the most famous “quick release” aerosol lubricant is the well-known WD-40. Among other things, it creates a hydrophobic layer and displaces water.

Lubricants with m silicone. They are easy to apply, able to “repel” dust and water.

Wax lubricants: on the chain, for example, the coating can last for several months under dry conditions. But the wax is subsequently able to “fall off” itself in the form of scales and flakes. If the bike is operated in water, mud, fords are crossed or riding occurs in spring or autumn, then you need to choose a different lubricant, because the wax is not fluid and cannot effectively penetrate into the chain joints.

A bicycle is not an easy machine. Before you lubricate your bike, you need to know that, in addition to the places for lubrication, there are areas where lubrication is completely undesirable. These include wheel tires (accidental ingress of grease on large areas can lead to skidding and the impossibility of emergency braking), rims (in the case of using tick-type brakes), as well as brake discs and pads. In addition, if oil gets on the rubber tube, it can begin to corrode the rubber, which will lead to its rupture for a considerable length.

Bicycle creaks

A squeak in a bike is a clear sign that something is wrong with your two-wheeled friend. some components rub against each other, provoking their wear. This is easy to learn. The main causes of strange noises are improperly tightened parts, lack of lubrication and dirt. At the same time, an incorrect tightening does not mean that it is weak, in some cases it can be overtightened, and then instead of a free wheel, some rotating part will do it with effort. excessive friction will generate a whistle.

In the case of insufficient “tightening”, gradually during operation, the part looses even more, the thread gets lost, the gap increases, dust gets into it and, working as an abrasive, causes additional damage, creating even more noise. But the main thing is that if the part is not firmly fixed, then it can fall off on the way, causing a fall and injury.

Another question is how to determine what exactly the problem is, and what part of the bike makes disturbing sounds. After all, the frame is large misinforms the rider, directing the creak to a completely different place. What to do? Let’s try to figure it out!

Find and eliminate

Steering column

If you can’t figure out what exactly squeaks in your bike, start by looking at the steering column. It is necessary to disassemble the steering column, clean the bearings from dirt, lubricate them. Then tighten the bolts properly. If the problem was in the steering column, the squeak should be gone.

Brakes

When it comes to rim brakes, the main reason for squeaking can be the condition of the rim. wear and dirt. If no signs of wear are found, you just need to clean the rim with a special cleaner or alcohol.

Disc brakes can squeak due to the stiffness of the material they are made from. This is especially true in wet weather. The disc brake can also produce such shuffling sounds. This means that the disc itself is bent. It must be removed and, placing it on a flat hard surface (better if it is a metal plate), straighten it by gentle tapping with a hammer. If things are really bad, then replace.

Carriage

The carriage very often causes squeaks during driving, since it takes on the main load when transferring mechanical energy to the wheel.

But first of all, you need to understand that the cause of the sounds is not in the pedals: remove them, clean them, lubricate them. If the sound does not disappear, proceed further. The carriage is removed with a specialized tool. It should be inspected for damage, then cleaned and lubricated. Also check if the connecting rods are carefully tightened.

Seatpost and saddle

The source of the squeak can be the seatpost or saddle. Unscrew the seat bolts to the seat post and lubricate thoroughly with a thread lock. Then screw it back in. Pull out the seatpost, carefully clean the tube of accumulated sand and dirt. Pay attention to the seat clamp. it must be tight.

If, after the performed manipulations, the bike still continues to squeak, contact the bike workshop. And do not forget to tighten the fasteners and lubricate the bike parts from time to time for preventive purposes.!

Squeaky pedals

Also, the source of the squeak can often be the carriage, cranks and pedals. after all, it is to them that the cyclist applies the main effort when riding.

The reason for the squeak is the presence of dirt and lack of lubrication. Of course, the best solution to the problem is to iterate over the entire block, but first try to deal with only the pedals. If you have cleaned and lubricated them, but the creak has not disappeared, then you should go deeper: clean the connecting rods and the carriage.

Noise in the connecting rods is eliminated by cleaning the seats with their subsequent lubrication. If this is not possible, try tightening the bolts that secure them: this sometimes helps. If you figured out the pedals and cranks, and the noise and rattle did not disappear. well, you have to grab the carriage.

Go over it, clean it from dirt (the solvent will help you!) And lubricate. Of course, if the balls in the bearings are not what they used to be, the parts are easier to replace. Apply sufficient force, not excessive force when assembling!

Saddle

By the way, we recommend:

If your saddle is creaking, then most often the problem is that sand has somehow got into the frame tube where the seatpost is inserted. Simply wipe the pin and apply a thick layer of grease to the end (about 5-10 centimeters in length).

The inside of the frame, of course, is also worth wiping. Perhaps the creak remained, and the saddle itself creaks. There may be sand in the seatpost clamp (but this is rare). Clean this area, no need to lubricate.

The chain creaks and crunches

The chain can also make different sounds. First, it can hit the frame feather, but that’s okay. You can put on a special pen protector or just wrap it with duct tape.

The chain can also crackle. Of course, our old friend sand tried again. Clean the front and rear sprockets, the rear derailleur sprockets, the chain itself. Lubricate it. There should be enough lubricant. if there is too much, dirt (and still the same sand!) Will stick to it, which will wear out your transmission.

Rarely, the chain can make a clicking sound from time to time. Be attentive and careful: it signals that it will break soon. This is due to the fact that on one link one of the cheeks slipped off the pin. Use a squeeze to remove the broken link and continue to ride. Also, clicks can emit spokes, since they have lost their rigidity, weakened. They need to be pulled, and it is better to entrust this business to professionals in the workshop.

In the event that you examined all the rotating, moving components, but did not find the cause of the squeak, carefully examine the frame itself, perhaps there is a microcrack somewhere. In this case, we recommend contacting the service: an experienced master will tell you how “dangerous” it is and how you can “cure” it.

Roller Sounds

There are no bearings in the rear derailleur rollers, but they often “whistle” when wear clearances increase. They must be lubricated periodically, otherwise the whistle will resume after a while. You can solve the problem by installing rollers with industrial bearings.

It happens that the sounds are emitted by the wheels, or rather the spokes in them. It is possible that you will have to remove each one and lubricate the threads with special grease. If you look at it, anything in a bicycle can make sounds. An elementary constriction of all fasteners of the bike and periodic maintenance of all nodes helps to prevent or remove squeak.

General Tips

General tips for maintaining your bike:

  • Have your bike checked at a bicycle repair shop annually. A trained bike mechanic will eliminate all clicks and squeaks before they become a problem.
  • Keep your bike clean and well lubricated to reduce wear and tear.
  • Have a lubricant handy at all times, as well as a bottle of liquid lubricating oil suitable for the driving conditions. Always use special lubricants and cleaning agents for your bike.
  • The only way to make sure all bolts on the bike are tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications is to use a wrench. Take the correct wrench, tighten the bolt and remove the wrench when the required tightness is achieved. The adjustable wrench should not be confused with the TORX wrench, which is a star.

It is sometimes very difficult to locate the origin of the noise. Do your best to find out where the noise is coming from, then try to fix the problem.

lubricate, bicycle, cables

Diagnosing and repairing the most common bicycle noises requires intermediate knowledge of bicycle parts and an understanding of how they work. If you don’t know how to fix something, take your bike to your local workshop.

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  • seatpost
  • grease