Eight on a wheel
Probably, every cyclist when buying a mountain bike pays attention to the rims, because they can be one-, two- or three-layer, and the more layers, the less likely the occurrence of an eight. Nowadays even inexpensive mountain bikes are equipped with double-layer rims, but even three-layer rims cannot guarantee 100% protection from the figure eight.
Figure eight on a bicycle wheel
Often, the figure eight appears as a result of a strong wheel strike, but the impact is not the cause of the figure eight. The blow can be attributed to the final stage of the emergence of the figure eight, but the real reason is loose knitting needles. Therefore, for prevention, it is necessary at least once a season to tighten the spokes on wheels using a special key, especially mountain bikes.
If the figure eight has already appeared, do not be too upset, this is not critical. it can be repaired, like a punctured tire (see the article “Bicycle camera repair”). To do this, we need a knitting key, a marker or pencil and a little patience.
How to fix a figure eight on a wheel
First, we turn the bike over and, holding a marker or pencil at a distance of 1 mm from the side surface of the bent rim, turn the wheel. A strip will appear in the place of deformation of the wheel. Do a similar operation on the other side of the rim.
Now you can start directly correcting the figure eight. Pay attention to the location of the needles: one on one side, the next on the opposite, i.e. they alternate quite logically. Now find the spoke that is closer to the center of the line drawn earlier from one side of the rim and going to the opposite side. It will then need to be pulled, but first it is necessary to slightly loosen the two adjacent knitting needles fixed on this side. It should be noted that tightening must be twice as strong as loosening. The same operation should be done on the back of the rim.
But look, do not get carried away, since you need to tighten and loosen very little. It all depends on the “seriousness” of the figure eight, so the knitting needles should be twisted ¼-½ a turn. Now erase the lines and repeat everything from the beginning until the wheel is straight. This is basically all you need to fix the figure eight, but if the wheel was damaged and it was rear, then you may need to adjust the forward and reverse gears.
Failed to fix figure eight on bicycle wheel?
Attention! If, as a result of your actions, the figure eight on the wheel has become even larger, then you should return everything to its place and carefully re-read this instruction again. Another important point is that the needles should not be left both loose and overtightened. You may not be perfect on the first try, but remember that with experience everything will turn out much better.
In the event that the rim is severely bent, it is better to contact a professional service, as something else, for example, the stem of the bicycle’s handlebars, may be damaged, and most likely professional repair or replacement of these parts will be required. Always be careful and take care of yourself!
The text was prepared by Roman Borisov. Published: May 29, 2020. Categories: Repair and maintenance.
- knitting needles
How to put fenders on a stealth bike
Cycling is an environmentally friendly means of transport and cycling is very popular. Owners of this technique must have some skills in maintenance and repair, because this will allow you to quickly and efficiently find a way out in unforeseen situations, for example, glue the camera or put the wings on a bicycle. The latter option causes a lot of controversy among fans of two-wheeled vehicles. It all depends on individual preferences and it is worth familiarizing yourself with this topic in a little more detail.
For or against
Bicycle fenders have both advantages and disadvantages, which are determined by the type of bike and its purpose. Among the positive aspects of this part on the wheels, it can be noted that:
- It is good protection against dirt and splashes from under the wheels;
- Correctly selected, they do not spoil the appearance of the equipment;
- Some types are quickly attached and removed.
Fans of sports bicycles often do without fenders, as they make the bike heavier, which is unacceptable for sports. For city driving, this detail can be very useful: it will protect the cyclist from getting dirt on his clothes. In order to understand whether the installation of this element is really necessary, you need to try everything on your own experience, as well as choose the right type of fenders on wheels. They can be:
- Stationary short;
- Quick release short;
- Stationary long.
The first option is quite common and they are made of plastic. You need to attach them to the fork or frame using a bolt. Protection is not complete, which in some cases may be significant. Their weight is small and therefore they do not particularly affect the weight of the equipment.
Quick-detachable short ones are also made of plastic, but they have mobility. They should be secured with a special clamp, which allows quick installation and removal. Many cyclists use this type of fenders on wheels despite the fact that the level of protection is not very high. It is important to carry out the installation correctly, otherwise the part will be useless.
Long stationary fenders for a bicycle are metal parts that are mounted by attaching in three places to the fork, frame. The area of protection against dirt flying from the wheels is quite large, but it is necessary to periodically clean the part itself. They are most suitable for road or road bikes.
Mobile versions of this part are easy to install, but the process of fixing stationary ones requires especially close attention. Before starting work, the rim brakes must be disengaged so that the rear fender can be attached without problems. Then you remove the screw located under the seat and you need to put the element on the seat post. The front fender is easily bolted into place at the fork crown. It is important to calculate the force with which the bolts are tightened. If you tighten it too much, then the fasteners can be damaged and become unusable, in the opposite case. it will dangle freely and interfere with driving.
Most often, the option of installing one part is not chosen, it is more efficient to put a complete pair. This will provide the best protection against splashes and dirt. If you plan to install a roof rack, you must first install the rear wing. In the case of an already installed trunk, it must be removed.
Tools you need:
- Keys to fit.
Now the question of how to install the fenders on a road or road bike has been resolved. It is not difficult to choose the appropriate option, because modern manufacturers produce a sufficient range of such devices. You can also make wings yourself, but this is a rather laborious process. Correct fit will ensure the functionality of the part and not render it useless, weighing down the bike.
Whether you need fenders on your bike or not. everyone decides for himself. For example, a bicycle without wings is not interesting to me. Washing all my clothes after every cycling trip is not for me.
I was interested in the last picture. Usually glossy wings like these break from a slight bend, but here someone bends the wing in half, and it does not break. I took the risk of doing this with my wing. It bent in the same way as in the picture, and unbent, while at the place of the bend there are not even traces left! So the quality of these wings is pretty good.
There are different types of rack attachment. In the photo. metal. My wings are plastic. They allow you to slightly adjust the length of the strut within 2 cm and supposedly separate themselves in problem cases (apparently, if something gets between the wheel and the wing or struts).
Attaching the fenders to the frame.
The fixing problems started from the very beginning. My frame has no holes for attaching full size fenders! The steel struts and their attachment to the fenders are made so that the hinge goes straight to the wheel axle. Apparently, the manufacturer assumed that the axle was threaded through the hinges and tightened along with the wheel.
Abandoned furniture was found at a local dump. There were aluminum corners bolted to the chipboard panels. I unscrewed them, they are very light, their weight is practically not felt on the palm (much lighter than steel products). I made four adapters from one corner with a grinder, drilling two holes in each in the right places:
An important point. Although the axle of the wheel is smaller, a large hole was drilled so that the spring in it could move freely, otherwise, when installing the wheel, you get bullshit.
The bike in the photos is turned upside down as the photos were taken while the fenders were mounted.
Since the loop is displaced from the center of the wheel by a few centimeters, the racks will have to be filed a few centimeters, one more, the other less. I sawed so that there was 3.5 cm between the wheel and the wing. It makes no sense to do more, since from the front side the frame restricts the movement of the wing to that extent. Doing less is dangerous, as dirt on the wheel can rub against the fender and make it difficult to move. Cutting off more and reducing the gap is always possible, but it will not work to build up the racks, so it is better to start with a larger gap and, if necessary, reduce it later (if the wings will not catch dirt).
Plastic mounts are screwed to the wing with complete screws, and steel struts are tightened by hand with a plastic nut. The gap between the wing and the tire is sufficient.
But the mount of the struts is initially located quite close to the wheel (about 1 cm). On wide tires this can be a serious problem. So, Rapid Rob 2.25 lays down very close to these plastic mounts. On the bumps they will probably scratch with protruding “cubes”. When mounting the front wing, I found a simple solution (read below), with 2.0 everything became normal, but for 2.25 I would still not recommend buying these wings, or you will have to make homemade strut mounts (more widely spaced on the outer side of the wing).
In addition to the twin steel struts, the rear wing has two more mounts. One. at the height of the trunk through the supplied plastic half-coupler. There is an unthreaded hole on the frame in this place, so the bolt and nut for this fastening must be selected by yourself. The other. at the very bottom. the hole on the fender is aligned with the hole in the frame and tightened with a bolt that is not included in the kit. The threads in the frame are already cut. There were no problems with the mount itself in these places, but the fender squeezed the front derailleur, and it did not switch. I had to tinker to move the wing away from the derailleur closer to the wheel. In my case, a plastic spacer and a few washers between the wing and frame helped.
As for the front wing. The top mount attaches to the hole in the gorilla. Honestly, when buying a bike, I was looking for one that has this hole, since many forks now do not have such a hole, and there you have to trick one more homemade mount. But there are no holes for attaching the wing struts on my fork. The original idea was the same. to make adapters from the wheel axle. There is also a non-planar seat for the nut, so it had to be filled with additional washers of the appropriate thickness.
The problem of the closeness of the wing-pillar attachment to the tire on the front wheel was more noticeable than on the rear. On the front fender there is not a double strut, but a single strut, so that at the slightest vibration, the wing began to “play” on the sides, and these plastic pieces hit the side teeth of the tire. Neither one nor the other benefit from this, of course. The only thing I came up with was bent the post in the place where it fits into the plastic fasteners as shown in the photo. After that, the distance between the tire and the strut increased, the wing was fixed more rigidly, and nothing clings to anything. It turned out quite practical, so I also bent the struts on the rear wheel, as far as possible from the wheel.
At first it seemed to me that the front wing was not low enough to protect the feet from dirt. In practice, no problems were noticed. When driving through puddles, feet remain clean. As if by the will of fate, after a few weeks I found a rubber bike mudguard (branded) rolled in the sand on a forest road, which fit perfectly into my wing, but since I often have to moose in the forest, drag my bike through fallen trees, I decided not to put it down for now. because it is during the forest losism that you understand why the wing ends exactly where it ends. If it were a little lower, it would cling to everything.
For comparison, Schwalbe Hurricane Performance 2.0 fender and tire width:
Well, to complete the review, a photo with wings. I can’t help but note that the thin steel struts still do not provide rigidity, and the wings are rather wobbly. They haven’t touched the wheels yet, but it’s still unpleasant. Ideally, you should strive to arrange the wings so that these racks are as short as possible, but, alas, this does not always work out. You can click on the photo to see a larger image.
Real world tests.
Especially, of course, I did not climb into the mud, but the circumstances were such that I had to overcome several flooded areas, and at the same time I decided to take a photo for this article. I was quite pleased with the result. I left the viscous mud absolutely clean, I didn’t even get my shoes dirty. Schwalbe Hurricane Performance, however, barely coped with the task. My feeling was that about 80% of the forces spent on pedaling was wasted, that is, the wheels just spun in place, barely maintaining movement. If it weren’t for the fenders, the rear wheel would definitely spit dirt all over my back. It’s amazing how I even got out of the stream shown in the fourth photo. The exit from it was viscous and very slippery, the wheels were strongly sucked in, when they were rotated they were spinning in vain. If the swamp were a couple of meters longer, I would have to dismount directly into this mud. However, I will not completely criticize Hurricane. Firstly, they are not mud, but road, and the fact that they can pull out of the quick slippery swamp with their few teeth located only on the side is, as it were, even a plus in comparison with the classic road tire, which is generally useless for such places. Secondly, last year I had similar problems on the toothy Rapid Rob in these places. they also slipped noticeably, only less. As for the wings, they pay off. The fenders do not stop dirty wheels from spinning, but they keep both the rider and the bike clean. The only thing I don’t like specifically about these fenders is the insufficient stiffness of the steel struts. Because of them, the front wing vibrates from side to side on irregularities, sometimes creating strange sounds such as bouncing.
Application. Fastening the front fender with clamps.
Supplement March 6, 2018.
The fenders are still on the bike. I did not install the clamps, I left them as they were originally assembled. In general, I am satisfied with the wings, but I want to note one feature. Pine cones. If you drive on a road covered with cones, they are somehow tightened between the wheel and the wing, and the very protection that I wrote about at the beginning of the article works. The wing is detached from the struts using a plastic connector. According to the manufacturer’s idea, this connector is disconnected and then snapped back by hand, and in fact this is usually the case, but, unfortunately, during the season I have already broken two such connectors with the help of cones. there the thin tendrils of the clip break off and they simply stop fixing. The wing begins to fly out of the retainer on each bump, rattles and interferes with movement, so this situation is very annoying on a long journey. Of course, when I returned home, I just filled all these connectors with superglue and they no longer come apart, but those who are not familiar with this problem should keep this in mind. After gluing all the quick-release clamps with superglue, I no longer had problems with bumps.
Types of wings and their effectiveness
Stationary short wings
They are usually made of plastic. They are attached to the frame or fork or at one point with a bolt. They are about one and a half times shorter than the long wings. The stationary short fenders are close to the tire and provide pretty good protection. These fenders are lightweight and well-secured, but provide poor dirt protection for the front derailleur and shins. Personally, I had such wings and broke very quickly. The mountings were not so hot at all.
Quick release short wings
Made of plastic, they are attached to the frame with a special clip. The distance between the wing and the tire is 10. 20 cm. Because of this, the level of protection is much worse and the dirt flies in all directions. The quick-release short fenders are insensitive to clogging with mud between the fender and the tire and are quickly removed when transporting the bike. But, with them, the cyclist will be covered in mud. If the height is too high, such wings become a meaningless accessory that does not fulfill its main function. The plastic mount on my fender came off pretty quickly. Also not a hot option
Stationary long wings
They are made of metal and metal-plastic. Bolted to frame or fork at three locations. Provides maximum protection because it covers a quarter of the front wheel and half of the rear wheel, and is close to the tire. Stationary long fenders at the rear can be combined with the trunk. When buying such wings, one should take into account that they are heavy. Another disadvantage is that, due to the short distance, dirt clogs up between the wheel and the wing. Therefore, these fenders are usually installed on road and city bikes.
As you can see, there are no ideal bicycle fenders. The longer the wing and the closer it is to the wheel, the better the protection. But, such wings are not suitable for cross. country and other extreme disciplines, for example. Even the best wings will not help in heavy rain. Extremals, for whom water and dirt are little things on the way to victory, they don’t need them at all.
But Kotovsky has a different opinion about the road racers.
Road Bike & Hybrid Fenders
Here, the question of appearance is even more important than in the case of mountain bikes. There is a very elegant option that almost does not disfigure the road. the Crud RoadRacer Mk2. Personally, I haven’t had time to get one yet, but a roadie buddy recommended it.
The system is easily removable and adaptive; such fenders are almost invisible on a bicycle. According to my friend, they protect from water perfectly.
Alternatively, the classic SKS Race Blade can be supplied. I put these on a hybrid, with the onset of the rainy season in our Estonia. The design is also easily removable, impressions from several years of operation are positive.
How to choose bike fenders?
Next, let’s talk about how to properly install the fenders on your bike. There is a good manual on the site http://bikes.sportiv.ru/.
Installation of fenders
Mounting mudguards on a bike is extremely easy, and finding a really good mudguard is much more difficult. The whole variety of bicycle fenders can be divided into two types: fixed and quick-detachable.
Stationary screws are attached to the front fork and rear stays. For city models, they sell large bicycle fenders that allow you to cover up to half the wheel circumference (they are usually made of metal and are additionally fixed with long “mustache” of wire at the ends of the wheel axles).
It should be noted that the longer the wing and the lower it is located above the wheel, the higher the degree of protection against splashes and the lower the passability: on difficult routes, dirt will very quickly clog the space under the wings, making it difficult to move.
By the way, the installation of this type of bicycle fenders in pictures was described on the website http://velotur.org
So, this is what it was originally, a bicycle without fenders.
And here is a set for attaching one wing:
Now you need to fix the rods with the bicycle fender as follows:
We collect the wings and they look like this:
Before installing the fenders, it is advisable to completely disable the rim brakes so as not to interfere.
We fasten the front fender in three places: we unscrew the white reflector and tighten the first fastener under its bolt, and we had to put two clamps on separate bolts with large washers, and not on the axle of the front wheel, for which they (clamps) were apparently intended.
For the rear wing, we bend the plate and fasten it in four places: we fixed two clamps as in the case with the front wheel, for the third fastening we need a bolt for six, we string it on the plate and a tube connecting the fork of the rear triangle
and the last one at the very bottom of the seat tube:
In the end, you may need to make a small adjustment to the fenders, you can move the clamps and other attachments to seat the fender so that it does not rub against the wheel. And only then we tighten all the bolts to the end.
In total, the wings are installed.
Installation of quick-release fenders
Quick release fenders attach to the head tube and seat post. These wings are usually very wide, so they provide good protection, including from side splashes. Their main drawback is, perhaps, one: not all quick-release rear fenders can be used with the trunk. The easily removable wings does not mean that they will be easy to steal: the wing (which is rear, which is front) does not attach directly to the bike, but to the mount, and if the wing itself can be removed very quickly, then it takes time to release the mount.
Also, the fenders include a special flap that is attached to the bike frame. It can still catch a certain amount of dirt flying from under the front wheel.
Now, in fact, a short story about how to install fenders on a bicycle. Small, because almost always bicycle accessories are equipped not only with all the necessary mounts, but also with installation instructions, often with diagrams. Note to rim brake owners: loosen the fenders before installing them.
It may be that a reflector (corner reflector) is already installed on your bike in the place where you need to mount the stationary fender. It’s okay, as a rule, the length of the bolt allows you to secure both accessories.
Installing the front fender
Usually, the front wing is fixed at one point (unless you have a design with a “mustache”), while the rear wing can have two fasteners: it is screwed to the frame with a screw and additionally fixed with the lower part to the very bottom of the seat tube (for this, at the narrow end of the wing there may be arcuate latch). Of course, if your bike has a rack, the rear fender fits under it. So that it vibrates less and does not shift when driving, you can use rubber bands, ties or somehow additionally pull the wing to the trunk.
Installation of easily removable fenders
Installing easily detachable fenders is also not difficult. The front fender brace is inserted into the head tube from below and tightened with an adjusting screw. Everything. Now insert the wing into the groove (until it clicks). Removing and putting on such a wing later is a matter of a few seconds, but depending on the design, there may be some problems, the main of which is backlash. You may need to independently, as they say, “modify the structure with a file”: how exactly. see the situation.
The rear wing attachment is fixed to the seat post. If the post is too smooth, without the rubber pad to increase friction, the wing can move during the ride. In addition, if the wing is not rigid enough, it can also twitch from side to side, so choose a model that is wider. The easily removable rear wing has one important advantage: depending on the specific situation, you can easily change the distance to the wheel and the angle of the wing.
Remember that you can pick up the nicest fenders (or maybe even improve their splash-holding properties by attaching pieces of plastic to the ends of the fenders), but they still won’t protect you from splashing the cars on the left, and your back (or your backpack on it) from rain from above. Therefore, for a comfortable ride in wet weather, we recommend getting a backpack cover and / or raincoat. Also look out for visor helmets.
It is easy to guess that “standard” and “ordinary” wings do not exist in nature. They all differ in several ways.
By diameter and width of the tire
By bike mounts
Bicycle mudguards without frame fasteners
Full size by material of manufacture
Selection of wings by mounting method
Exotic and homemade wing options
Selection of wings by tire diameter and width
However, the wings are not the same in diameter. Look at the width of the fender so that it can cover your entire tire. This is especially true for mountain bikes, where tires can be very wide, and even more so for fat bikes.
Selection of fenders for mounting on a bicycle
Once you’ve decided on the diameter and width, look at your frame and fork. Are there any holes for the wing attachment? On the fork, they should be on the gorilla (the bridge connecting the 2 parts of the fork) and at the bottom where the wheel is attached. On the frame, the holes (or “ears”) should also be near the place where the wheel is attached to the frame, in the lintel connecting the upper frame stays, and also at the bottom on the lintel connecting the lower frame stays.
If there are holes, then feel free to take a set of full wings. this will be the most practical option. The most that can get dirty is your shoes. Although this can be prevented by installing a mudguard (it may be included). Don’t worry about the appearance of your bike, even if you have a mountain bike. Not the coolest appearance of a bike with fenders is easily compensated for by your neat appearance, regardless of the amount of water and dirt in your path.
Bicycle mudguards without frame fasteners
If you have a mountain full suspension or a hardtail without frame fasteners, then we have bad news for you. It will not be possible to completely protect against dirt and water due to the lack of the necessary fasteners for installing full wings. But quick-detachable wings can save you from total washing.
With such wings, clothes below the waist will still be dirty, but if you went to a meeting with a girl, then you can hide behind a bush and give her flowers from there. After all, above the waist, you will look impressively good.
In general, of course, on mountain bikes, fenders are not the most practical accessory and rarely provide complete protection. This does not apply to city bikes, folding bicycles, and cruisers. There, wings are a necessary element, without which such bicycles cannot be imagined, because they are equipped with fenders from the factory. True, the wings offered by the manufacturer may not always suit you. After all, even full-size wings have significant differences, primarily in terms of material.
Differences between full-size wings by material of manufacture
Perhaps the most impractical option. Their only plus is they are cheap. Everything else is a minus. They are heavy, making the bike significantly heavier. They are very unreliable on shaking. the mount in the form of a corner strives to fall off the wing and often does it successfully. When driving, they create annoying noise, constantly blur, require frequent tightening of connections.
Aluminum. Lighter than metal, but very rare for the above reasons, and are much more expensive.
Plastic. Also a rather rare option. They are much lighter than metal, inexpensive, but also not very reliable.
The most popular, reliable and lightweight. Due to the thin metal base and plastic surfaces, they have high strength, they crack much less from many irregularities, and are quite elastic.
The rest of the wings differ in the way they are attached
The front fender is attached to the fork rod from below. The plastic sleeve is inserted inside, and thanks to the spacer mechanism, it is firmly fixed there. The rear fender is attached to the seatpost with a high-strength fabric clamp. Both wings can be removed in 5 seconds, which is why they got their definition.
The front fender is screwed onto the gorilla forks. The rear is attached either only to the bridge between the upper frame stays, or it can have an additional hook to the seat tube of the frame.
Exotic and homemade wing options
Such wings can only protect a small part of the body, but they have a place to be.
The flap on the frame will take away some of the dirt sent to you above the waist.
The guard on the fork will take away some of the dirt intended to get on your face, and also protect the working surface of the fork from heavy wear.
The spacer between the gorilla and the crown of the fork is also designed to keep your face clean.
Saddle guard keeps your butt dry and clean.
How to install a motor wheel on a bicycle. Wheel motor installation
You can install a motor-wheel on a bicycle in a workshop or on your own. provided that you have the appropriate skills, tools and a desire to tinker a little with the pieces of iron.
The electric wheel can be installed:
- Instead of a rear wheel, the best choice for fans of extreme riding on rough terrain, due to the increased strength and reliability of the structure. In this case, good grip of the electric wheel with the surface is ensured, even in difficult conditions. Bicycles with a rear fork motor are great for bumping and slippery surfaces, but you need to take into account the sweep so as not to impair handling. Driving difficulties are most evident when mounting a heavy direct-drive motor-wheel at the rear and installing a battery on a trunk.
- Instead of the front wheel, this installation of an electric wheel provides the bicycle with all-wheel drive (electric in front and pedal in the rear), similar speed characteristics and excellent cross-country ability. Mounting the motor from the front is technologically simpler. Often a compact wheel motor with a gearbox (200-350 W) is used to organize a front drive, and the battery is fixed on the trunk. If necessary, you can take a gearless electric motor with increased power and weight characteristics, but then it is important to ensure high strength of the fork (you can use the amplifier of the fork pen).
Installing the electric wheel on the bike from behind
To mount an electric motor to the rear of your bike, first make sure the electric wheel you choose matches the size of the stock wheel and fork. If an electric motor with a sprocket or ratchet does not fit between the frame stays, try using a ratchet with a reduced number of stars or even slightly straighten the dropouts.
The procedure for connecting the motor wheel at the rear is quite simple. Need:
- Unscrew the nuts or eccentric fixing the standard wheel. Extract it.
- Remove the engine housing covers and coat them with a waterproof high temperature sealant and wrap it into the tire with a tube and rim tape.
- Place the motor-wheel so that the wires go from the axis of the electric motor to the left in the direction of travel. since the chain and the speed switch are located on the right.
- Completely assemble the wiring diagram of the motor-wheel without fixing the components (just “snap” the parts) to check the serviceability of the set, determine the route of the wires and make sure that their length is sufficient.
- Place the controller in an area inaccessible for water ingress on the device body.
- Connect the wires according to the diagram supplied with the kit. Strictly observe the compatibility of connectors and match the colors of the insulating winding.
- Install chain.
- Align the wheel motor. during rotation it should be at an equal distance from the fork parts and not touch the brake pads.
- If the rim beats strongly (over 1.5 mm up, down or in any direction). adjust its position by tensioning the spokes.
- In the absence of noticeable beats, secure the engine with shaped washers with an inner hole in the shape of a circle with 2 projections and an external curved spike (it should be in the hole in the frame). Washers of this design will prevent the engine from turning.
- Make sure the motor is working correctly. When you turn the throttle handle, it should start moving smoothly and quickly gain about 400 rpm. at idle speed. If you have a bike computer, you can track the speed on it.
- Securely attach all parts of the electrification kit. Insulate the wires thoroughly and fasten carefully to the frame.
- Adjust circuit switches to function.
- Check the brake system.
How to connect a wheel motor in front?
Front-mounted motor wheels are often designed for fork widths of around 100 mm. The wiring in these models exits the hollow axis on the right. To equip a bicycle with an electric drive, you must have a wheel motor with a suitable rim size. Before installation, it is recommended to unscrew and seal the outer motor covers using a heat-resistant waterproof sealant.
The front mounting of the electric motor is extremely simple. Need:
- Unscrew and remove the front wheel.
- Install a wheel motor instead. Secure it using curly washers and nuts.
- According to the diagram, connect all the components of the kit for equipping the bike with an electric drive.
- Make sure the motor is working properly.
- Clamp the engine. It must be securely fastened, free to rotate and equidistant from the brake pads and fork elements. In case of imbalance over 1.5 mm, it is necessary to correct it by adjusting the spokes.
- Install the remaining components. controller, battery, throttle and brake levers, PAS system and control panel.
- Adjust front brake.
In the absence of experience in performing such work, you can use professional services for equipping bicycles with electric traction in our workshop.
We also invite you to familiarize yourself with our previous material on the formats and sizes of lithium-ion batteries.
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Installing a motor-wheel on a bicycle with your own hands
If you love to ride a bike, you know very well that it often becomes too lazy to pedal and feel tired. This happens especially often if you have to move on hilly terrain with frequent climbs. To facilitate your movement, you can install a special electric motor on the bike.
There are several types of such electric motors, but the simplest of them is the wheel motor. Let’s find out how you can design a wheel motor for a bicycle with your own hands.
The wheel motor is a DC motor. It is installed on a bicycle rim, and you can choose both the front and rear wheels (or you can design a vehicle of special power and install the motor on two wheels at once). The power of such motors can be 250, 500 or 1000 watts. The most powerful one allows you to develop a bicycle speed of up to 60 kilometers per hour. Installation of the wheel motor on the bike does not require additional adjustment or maintenance, it is done in one go.
- The bike is not subject to irreversible changes. Even its appearance hardly suffers. The main part of the device is mounted on the wheel.
- The motor wheel runs almost silently.
- Smooth, yet high-speed movement of your two-wheeled vehicle is achieved through even engine operation.
- Climbing the hill is performed with minimal effort.
- The device has no rubbing parts, so its service life is very long.
- You can easily remove the device and return the original functionality of your bike.
All the necessary components are often sold in ready-made kits, but you can pick them up yourself. Of course, installing a ready-made kit will be much easier and faster. Keep in mind that after installing all the elements, your bike will become 8-10 kg heavier, so give preference to parts with lighter weight.
Ready set of accessories
Its diameter should be between 20 and 28 inches. You can use an old wheel, but it should be in good condition with no functional or functional deficiencies. And also it must be well adjusted for normal operation.
The motor itself, which will rotate the wheels for you.
A battery to provide the power you need to move your bike.
Required so that you do not fly off the track and can control your speed limit.
Board that regulates the operation of your wheel motor.
You will put the battery and controller in them to protect them from environmental influences.
Installing the wheel motor
Now let’s find out how to install the wheel motor on the bike. It is necessary to develop a wiring diagram for all elements. If you purchased a ready-made kit, then the scheme is also available. If you create the circuit yourself, we recommend choosing the rear wheel of the bike to install the motor, and installing the battery, which is the heaviest part of the structure, on the trunk. It is advisable to bring the speed regulator to the steering wheel so that it is at your fingertips.
To install the motor-wheel on a bicycle, you can use acoustic wires that connect audio speakers. This is a cheap option that allows enough current to pass through. You can use RCA as connectors.
Remember to put the battery in your backpack and shield it from rain, sand and other moisture and dirt. And you also need to secure it securely, since a heavy structure can easily fly out of the trunk when cornering, especially if you develop a decent speed.
When assembling, consider a method that allows you to remove the installed motor to easily return the bike to its original condition. Usually, for this, it is enough to change the motor-wheel to a regular wheel, remove the cover with the battery and wires. and the bike will take on its usual look.
Electric Bicycle Wheel
Now you have an idea of how to install a wheel motor on a bicycle with your own hands. It is especially convenient to use this type of transport for mixed riding: ride on a flat road using the pedals, and when entering the hill, turn on the electric drive and enjoy how the bike takes you upstairs. But you can also turn it on when you need to develop a high speed. the kind that only professional athletes can achieve on a bicycle. Thus, you can get a universal transport in which the lightness, mobility and simplicity of the bike design will be combined with the power and speed of an electric motor.
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How to install a motor wheel on a bike (FD26-R)
By installing the “Flyger” motor-wheel kit on your bike, you will get an electric bike, convenient for operation and maintenance. Please read the instructions for installing the kit on your bike carefully before proceeding with the installation. By installing the kit yourself, you are responsible for the correct and safe installation. The seller does not accept any responsibility in the event of any injury, damage or other consequences arising from the use of this product.
The seller wishes you an interesting and fun, but at the same time safe trip. Please read the information below carefully, even if you are an experienced cyclist. Take the opportunity to learn more about the conversion kit before embarking on your first trip.
Read all included installation and operating instructions and follow the instructions until the first use of the converted bike.
There are many electrical parts in the e-bike kit. Please do not disassemble, drop or try to punch holes in them.
Electrical parts will perfectly withstand rain, but DO NOT immerse them in liquid.
The storage temperature of the lithium-ion battery is 20 to 60 ° C.
Batteries should be charged immediately after each use and should never be stored for extended periods without charging and maintenance. If you do not use the battery for a long period of time, please remember to charge it at least once every two months.
The bike should be carefully checked in case of long-term storage.
Spoke tension should be checked after running 100 km or if necessary.
Make sure tires are properly inflated before riding.
Make sure the brakes are working properly before riding.
Always wear a helmet when riding an electric bike for your own safety.
Obey all applicable road traffic regulations.
Be aware that other road users may underestimate the speed of an electric bike.
When riding an e-bike, hold the handlebars with both hands.
After opening the box, verify that all of the following items are included.
Motor wheel, spoked into a reinforced rim with a diameter of 26 inches;
Battery and charger;
PAS (Pedaling Assist System)
Removable set of wires;
Single set of wires;
The colors of the connected connectors of the wire and the controller must match each other.
Installation Instructions Wheel Motor
The colors of the wires to be connected and the controller connectors must match.
Tools needed to install the wheel motor (not included).
You can use similar tools or purchase from a dealer.
Make sure your bike is suitable for conversion:
Our e-bike kit is versatile and can be used to convert most bicycles, however there are criteria that need to be checked first.
The distance between the lugs of the front fork of your bike should be large enough to accommodate the motor-wheel (98. 102mm).
Installing the wheel motor:
Move the tire and tire from the front wheel to the motor-wheel (or install new ones).
Remove the bike wheel and release the caliper;
Dismantle the brake disc and install it on the motor-wheel (when tightening the disc screws, please tighten them in a diagonal direction and not very tight, otherwise the thread may break);
Place the washers close to the motor;
the number of washers depends on your bike
This bushing is located on the right side of the eyelet.
Put the bushings on the axle and insert the motor-wheel into the eyes;
Tighten all screws;
Adjust the caliper and tighten the screws.
Installing the display
Unscrew the screws on the back of the display and install it on the steering wheel;
Correct the display position and tighten the screws.
Installing the brake levers, throttle and normal grip on the steering wheel
Remove the brake levers and handles (left and right);
Insert the brake cables into the new electric brake levers;
Install the electric brake levers on the bike and tighten the screws (left and right).
Install the throttle stick (usually on the right);
Put new handlebars (grips) on the handlebars (left and right; heat them slightly if necessary).
Installing PAS (Pedaling Assist Systems)
You will need to use special tools to install PAS.
Remove the connecting rod and system;
Remove the connecting rod from the other side;
Place the sensor on the axle and insert it back, install the disc. The direction of the sensor and disc must match the images. The gap between the sensor and the disc should be 1 to 3 mm.;
Install the system and crank arm, fasten the sensor cable to the bike.
Installing the battery and controller
Disconnect the rear rack (if available);
Make sure all parts are in stock;
Install the rear rack onto the bike, adjust and tighten the screws;
Insert the battery into the holder and fix it;
Connect all electronics to the controller;
Place the controller in a specially made niche, close the niche with a lid.
Make sure the brakes are adjusted, the wheel is secure, the screws are tight, and everything is functioning as expected. You need to twist the throttle to test the motor in the motor-wheel. It should lift off the ground, if something doesn’t work as expected, please double check all stages of the assembly. Contact the seller if necessary.
After making sure that the e-bike wheel kit is installed correctly, drive a few kilometers and check again that all parts are secure. If everything is in order, then you have a good ride and good mood.!
You should check your e-bike and its parts regularly to make sure all connectors are secure, especially the controller and battery connectors.
Charger plug. for mains connection
Charger port. for connecting to the battery
Insert the charging port into the battery and then plug the charger into a power outlet.
The charging process takes place when the diode in the charger is red. When it is completed, the LED glows green.
The key can have 2 functions: battery lock and power on.
It is recommended to check the tension of the spokes of the motor-wheel and the reliability of the fastening of the screws after the first 50 km.
To ensure long-term use of the propulsion system, all plug-in contacts should be checked every two to three months and wiped clean with a soft and dry brush if necessary. It must be ensured that dirt or moisture does not enter the battery dock when it is removed.
WARNING: Never use a high-pressure or garden hose to clean the engine system. The force of the water jet can damage electrical components.
We recommend a soft sponge or soft brush for cleaning your bike. Use a damp cloth to clean the battery dock. Apply a small amount of water, and do not allow liquid to come into contact with electrical contacts. After cleaning, check the plug connections for moisture. Let them dry if necessary before using the bike.
Installing the wheel motor on the bike from behind
Installing the wheel motor on the bike from behind [2014-03-26]
For those who prefer extreme riding on rough terrain, the best option for building an e-bike would be a model with a rear wheel drive. Installing the wheel motor on the rear fork makes it possible to ensure the traction of the rear driving wheel motor with the road in any conditions, which is important when driving on bumpy and slippery roads, however, due to the deterioration in weight distribution, it slightly impairs handling, especially on slippery surfaces.
The weight distribution is especially disturbed if a heavy direct-drive motor wheel with a power of 0.5. 1 kW is used, powered by batteries attached to the trunk. In this case, you can recommend using:
A) gear motor wheel with less weight;
B) Lithium-ion batteries with less weight;
B) Install lead acid batteries in the inside of the frame. Despite the indicated disadvantages of the rear mounting of the motor-wheel, the described design has high strength, and therefore the reliability of the electric bike as a whole.
If you decide to mount a wheel motor at the rear, then when selecting a wheel motor, first of all you need to make sure that its dimensions correspond to the parameters of the wheel that is installed on your bike. The main parameters are wheel diameter and hub width. The wheel diameter is usually indicated in inches, right on the tire. As for the width of the hub, there is an international standard: the width of the rear fork in the area of the wheel axle attachment is usually 145 mm. Motor wheels designed to be mounted at the rear, assembled with cassette, are usually designed for this fork width.
If the motor wheel with the cassette for some reason does not fit into the fork opening, then you can use another cassette with fewer stars (TM Volta bikes wheel motor for rear installation, designed for cassettes with 5-7 stars). In addition, you can try to straighten the rear fork stays (we repeat, this may only be needed if the width of the wheel motor differs from the standard one, for example, the selected wheel motor model is designed to install not a cassette, but one sprocket). However, not all forks can be bent. Inexpensive steel frames tolerate this process most painlessly. By a small amount: 1-2 centimeters, you can usually extend the fork in an aluminum frame. But it is better not to do this, since there are a sufficient number of models of wheel motors with different standard sizes on the market.
When installing a wheel motor at the rear, the wiring usually leaves the wheel motor axle to the left in the direction of travel. This was done for an obvious reason. on the right of the bike there is a gearshift mechanism and, in fact, the chain itself.
As for the process of installing the wheel motor itself, this bicycle upgrade is easy to do with your own hands. First you need to unscrew the nuts holding the wheel and remove it. Then, in the vacant space, you need to insert the motor-wheel, orienting it as already mentioned above. Further, we recommend assembling the entire scheme as a whole, without fixing the elements, but only “making money” in order to
First, make sure the kit works;
Secondly, outline the trajectory of the wires and make sure that their length is sufficient.
Since the most common malfunction of the wheel motor is the failure of the Hall sensors located in the stator of the wheel motor, if possible, measures should be taken to increase the water resistance of the wheel motor housing covers. To do this, they need to be removed and lubricated with a waterproof and heat-resistant sealant, since during operation some parts of the wheel motor can not only fall under a stream of rain, but also heat up to high temperatures. Unfortunately, it is impossible to completely seal the motor wheel due to the peculiarities of its design, so it should be borne in mind that immersing the hubs of an electric bicycle wheel motor in water will most likely lead to their failure. The controller must also be installed in a place excluding direct water ingress on its body.
When connecting the wires, the main thing is not to confuse anything and do this work very carefully, guided by the attached diagram, connecting the wires in strict accordance with the colors of their insulation and the compatibility of the connectors. If something is unclear, it is better to call technical support than to burn the controller or battery charger.
If everything is fine, you can install the chain, center the motor wheel so that when rotating it is at the same distance from the fork elements and does not touch the brake pads. If the runout of the rim is too large (more than 1.5 mm on either side, or up and down. First you need to adjust the rim using the spoke tension). If the motor wheel does not have noticeable beats, then it can be fixed, be sure to use curly washers for this, which have an inner hole in the form of a circle with two protrusions and a curved outer spike, which must fall into the corresponding hole in the frame. Using such washers will help prevent the motor wheel from turning in the fork seat. After that, you need to make sure once again that the wheel motor is working correctly.
If the e-bike is equipped with a throttle grip, then when it rotates, the motor wheel should start smoothly and rapidly dial at idle speed of about 400 rpm. If the delivery set includes a cycling computer, then the speed can be controlled by its readings. After that, you need to securely fix all the components of the electric kit for converting the bike to electric traction. The wiring from the wheel motor must be carefully insulated and fixed to the frame in the least noticeable way (if, of course, the aesthetic side of the issue matters to you). Now you can check and adjust the chain throwing and brake operation.