Shifting the cassette
After you have managed to remove the retaining ring, the cassette will need to be moved to the side, after which it will be removed. There is a possibility that later it can be disassembled into many different parts, such as individual sprockets, gaskets.
Step-by-step instructions for replacing a bike cassette
A mountain bike cassette is a simple and fairly unpretentious bicycle assembly. But from time to time you still have to carry out disassembly and maintenance. Thanks to timely cleaning and lubrication, you will be able to provide this unit with a long service life and prevent the occurrence of any unexpected breakdowns in the transmission. But let’s take a closer look at how you can replace the rear bicycle cassette with your own hands, without contacting a service center.
steps how to change a bike cassette
Bicycle cassette is a system of rear sprockets that are designed to change the gear ratio. The stars themselves are arranged in descending order from the hub. An upshift means shifting a sprocket that is located further away. The cassette is a kind of consumable that, after long-term use, wears out and becomes unusable. For this reason, periodic maintenance is mandatory, which implies the replacement of both individual stars and the entire unit as a whole.
Installing a cassette
Once you have the sprockets in place, you will need to screw on the retaining ring that holds the cassette in place. Under no circumstances should the cassette be tightened tightly. This is because the thread is very fine. Due to the excessive effort applied, there is a high probability that it will subsequently be ripped off. Retaining rings prevent spontaneous loosening.
Directly replacing the cassette
You should always pay attention during the work process so that the new cassette is able to provide the same gear ratio. In no case should you install a cassette with a different gear ratio on your bike.
You cannot change the quality features of individual parts. Otherwise, there is a possibility of violation of the overall harmony of the structure. Therefore, it is very important to change the cassette of one sample after it has become unusable for operation, to a similar one.
You can find out the gear ratio after carefully examining the purchased cassette. Most often, this value is stamped on one of the asterisks that are in the cassette. You can also determine this indicator using another method. You just need to count the number of teeth on the largest and smallest sprocket. The numbers that you received as a result will act as the gear ratio.
Inspecting the bike chain
Your bike cassette has been replaced. You did not have to spend money on the services of specialists, since you managed to do all the work yourself. You just spent your money on buying a new cassette, which is quite profitable. It should be borne in mind that it is quite common for a bicycle chain to wear out at the same time as the cassette. For this reason, the chain should be inspected as carefully as possible, because it may also need to be replaced.
Removing the cassette
After you are finally sure that the cassette needs to be replaced, you should dismantle it. For these purposes, you should place the wheel of your bike on a flat surface in such a position that the cassette is on top.
Then you will need to wrap the chain whip clockwise around the sprocket, which is the largest in the cassette. Then you will need to insert the puller into the groove on the wheel, which is open. This place is not at all difficult to find. You just need to locate the twelve-prong retaining ring. The ring in question has the most common and standard thread that can be unscrewed counterclockwise. Do not pay attention if you suddenly hear a grinding sound when unscrewing. It is formed by blocking teeth.
Removing the bike cassette
After you have removed the rear wheel of the bike, remove the mounting system. Then, insert the snap ring remover into the cassette and rotate it until it matches completely: this will only happen at a certain position of the device. If the standard key for removing the retaining ring is not suitable for the cassette, ask the technician for a suitable key.
To firmly press the retaining ring remover against the sprockets, remove the springs from the mounting system and place the key back against the wheel and turn it with a little force. If your bike has a thru axle that is screwed into the bike frame, rather than a conventional wheel axle locking mechanism, you can thread the axle through the locking ring removal mechanism. This will help keep all the parts in order when you remove the cassette. Stand behind the wheel (placing it on the ground in an upright position) and throw the so-called “whip” over one of the large cassette sprockets so that its handle is in your left hand. Adjust the size of the adjustable wrench to the outer diameter of the circlip remover and hold it in your right hand. The “whip” will prevent the cassette from turning while you unscrew the retaining ring with an adjustable wrench. Click on both tools while rotating them in opposite directions. As soon as the retaining ring is loose, remove both the “whip” and the key, and continue to unscrew it by hand or with a wrench.
Remove the ring and then the cassette. Do this very carefully if you intend to use some of its parts again. sprockets and washers sometimes fail.
Bicycle sprocket cassette replacement tools
The circlip is designed to hold the cassette sprockets on the hub. To remove and replace the cassette, it is necessary to unscrew this retaining ring. This requires three tools: the “whip”. a short piece of chain with a handle for unscrewing the rear sprockets, a tool for removing a circlip and a large adjustable wrench.
How to replace a cassette on a bicycle?
As soon as you have covered about 1500 km on a bicycle, it is time for a thorough technical inspection of the sprocket cassette (the amount of wear will depend on the condition of the chain and the terrain on which you are traveling: on a mountain road or on a highway). If the teeth of commonly used sprockets are more like shark fins than the rounded bumps of rarely used sprockets, then it’s time to replace the cassette.
Sometimes it is possible to replace only one sprocket instead of the entire cassette, but not all cassettes can be supplied with spare parts. So it’s best to replace it completely. Ask your local mechanic for the best solution for your bike.
Installing the cassette on the bike
Install the new cassette onto the hub (when buying a new cassette, make sure it is a compatible brand with the hub brand of your bike). The cassette has grooves cut, which must be aligned with those on the sleeve, so that the cassette can be installed in the only correct way. The side of the cassette that has teeth must face outward, the same is indicated on the side markings.
Check if all the sprockets in the cassette have a built-in washer, or you will have to install them yourself (with new cassettes they are included in the kit). Once the cassette is installed, inspect all sprockets for the presence of washers.
When everything is in place, pay attention to the smallest sprocket, which should slightly protrude beyond the edge of the sleeve; if this does not happen, then you may have forgotten to pad the puck.
Install the wheel mounting mechanism by turning it inward with the conical springs. Put on the wheel and roll it to check if everything is working properly before riding.
Check your bike’s hub type
The following steps to remove the cassette will be helpful to those with cassette rear hub models with drum ratchet.
Most modern bicycles have a similar design.
To determine the hub type, you need to remove the rear wheel and look at the smallest sprocket.
If you see a retaining ring installed around it (usually it says “lock”), you have just such a cassette.
Maintenance of the bike cassette and chain
Clean your bike cassette thoroughly at least twice a year. Be careful when cleaning around the hub. Do not hose down your bike or use a solvent, as this can dissolve the oil in the bearings.
It would be nice to replace the chain as well when changing the cassette (chains wear out faster than cassettes, so you can change the chain twice before it is the cassette’s turn). Cassette and chain must be compatible with each other. For example, if you have a 9-speed cassette, then you need a 9-speed chain.
Poor chain condition will wear out the teeth on the cassette sprockets. If you live in a beach area, sand gets into the transmission system, or if you live in a damp climate. the chain can rust, so it is best to change the chain well in advance.
Removing and installing bicycle wheels
This article will guide you through removing and installing front and rear bicycle wheels.
The wheels must be properly fitted to the bike frame. Misalignment can lead to problems with shifting and adjusting the bike. If the wheel is not securely fixed, it can fall off during the ride and injure the cyclist.
Rigid axle bushings use axle nuts on the outside of the frame plate. The axle nut contains a washer built into the axle nut, or a separate washer. If the washer has teeth or knurls, then they are connected to the recess to secure the wheel. Lubricate the threads on the axle when the wheel is mounted on the bike.
It is often easier to mount the front wheel when the bike is on the ground. When placing the bike on the ground, the axle must be completely in the pad on the frame.
Make sure that the cam lever for locking the axles of the wheels is in the open position and that its brakes are open.
Place the wheel in the pad on the frame. Make sure the hub is fully seated in the frame or fork.
- On the rear wheel, first turn the gear back and place the smallest gear between the top and bottom of the chain. Place the wheel between the brake pads, hooking the smallest gear on the chain.
- Cam mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels: tighten the axle so that the lever meets resistance 90 ° from the frame or fork.
- Straight axle: move the axle in place and turn clockwise until it stops.
- Solid axle: tighten both nuts on the axle until they stop.
- The use of a torque wrench is recommended. However, if it is not available, an effort must be made. For 25 Nm, apply about 40 pounds of pressure to the end of a 5 “wrench.
Determine the end position of the lever closing. Rotate the front arm and adjusting nut so that the arm ends up just at the front of the fork. Place the rear arm between the chain support and the seat. Reposition the lever as needed if it is not fully closed.
Re-remove the brake mechanism if applicable.
Make sure the wheel is in the center of the frame or fork. Loosen the nuts on the axle and, if necessary, adjust the center of the wheel in the frame and retighten.
Make sure the brake pad rim is centered on the wheel and adjust as needed.
If possible, start by setting up your bike. It should be installed on the left side when removing the rear wheel. Do not stand the bike in an upright position without the rear wheel, as this may damage the rear derailleur.
Rear Wheels: Set the derailleur to the outer gear and the inner front wheel chain. This will loosen the chain and the wheel will be easier to remove.
Cassette Gear Removal and Installation
Disconnect the brake rim, if equipped. The release mechanisms of typical MTB and road brakes are shown below.
Note: Disconnect pads are not required with disc brakes. Also, with hydraulic disc brakes, do not squeeze the brake lever when removing the disc from the bike. Otherwise, the pads will close and it will be very difficult for you to put the wheel back on the bike. Use a specially designed spacer such as PP-1.2 if needed.
- Eccentric mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels: pull the lever of this mechanism outward to the end. If necessary, loosen the quick release of the adjusting nut to remove any projections on the end of the fork.
- Straight axle: some functions are the same as the axle of the eccentric mechanism for securing the axles of the wheels. pull the lever outward to disengage and twist to loosen. Some straight axles are equipped with a special device that should weaken the axle. However, other simple levers that are needed to loosen or tighten are not used.
- Solid axle: on wheel axles with nuts, both nuts must be loosened from the outside.
On the front wheel. just point the wheel down and out of the fork. For rear wheels, pull on the rear derailleur so the screws clear the chain. Lower the wheel by guiding it down through the brake pads and forward to clean the chain and gearshift mechanism.
Some gearshift mechanisms have a clutch mechanism that makes them difficult to turn. They have functions that make it easy to remove the wheel.
- To engage the SRAM shift mechanism, move the lower roller forward to loosen the chain and press the button to lock it in place.
How to put the rear wheel on a bike
Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bicycle maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.
Experienced cyclists welcome self-repairing wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you will gain skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.
When to remove the rear wheel
It is unlikely that the idea of unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:
This includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.
Usually one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. It is recommended to use open-end wrenches or box wrenches. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.
The rear frame pad in the rigid axle can also have a bolt-on gearshift mechanism. There should be a bolt and nut that holds it. The wheel is mounted on a suspension. The axle should be located on the back of this bracket, with which the right side is moved forward. Tune the wheel and check the nuts.
How to remove a cassette
Remove the bicycle wheel, then install the puller so that its splines fully enter the grooves of the retaining ring.
Place the whip on the sprocket so that the links of its chain sit tightly on its teeth. The whip handle should be to the right of the cassette and the chain on top.
Put the adjustable wrench on the cassette remover and turn it counterclockwise, while you need to hold the handle of the whip without letting the stars spin.
If the chain slips off, it is possible that the cassette stars are badly worn, or the whip is faulty. In this case, try to put it on a big star.
Unscrew the retaining ring to the end, then remove and unfold the stars and spacers. Lay out everything in order so that nothing is confused during assembly.
The cassette is removed, now it can be cleaned or changed.
How to install a cassette
When installing the cassette, the main thing is not to mix up the order of installing the parts. In order to correctly install the sprockets, they have grooves with different widths, and on the hub there are the same splines, thanks to them the teeth will stand in the right order.
Some cyclists advise to lubricate the hub surface before installing the cassette, but I think this will be superfluous. First, the chance of corrosion is too low. Second, the friction between the hub and the sprocket is also not high enough to cause damage. Thirdly, dust and sand can adhere to the lubricant, which can lead to accelerated wear of parts.
Apply grease only to the thread of the retaining ring, then it will be easier to unscrew it next time.
Put on the stars in turn, but do not forget about the spacer rings. In some cassettes, all or several stars can be connected into one non-collapsible unit. “spider”. But more often than not, all the stars go separately.
In some cassettes, to install the last asterisk, you must click on it. Check again if everything is installed correctly, with one hand press on the last sprocket, and with the other hand screw on the retaining ring.
Tighten the ring all the way, but do not tighten yet. Check again that all the stars are parallel to each other, and that they are straight. If something confuses you, disassemble the cassette and fix the problem.
If you are sure that everything is assembled correctly, then take the cassette remover and tighten the locking ring clockwise to the end.
Everything, the cassette is assembled. Once again, inspect the correct assembly and you can put the wheel in place.
Bicycle cassettes can be divided according to the following criteria:
- material of manufacture;
- number of stars and their range;
- compatibility with various types of bicycles;
The material for manufacturing can be:
- Steel is the basic material for most sturdy bike assemblies. Parts made of it are distinguished by an optimal ratio of strength and cost. To protect against corrosion destruction, finished products are chrome-plated. made shiny, nickel-plated. covered with yellow metal, or blued. blackened in oil.
- Aluminum has the lowest density of all metals. Parts made of its alloys are the lightest, but inferior in strength and service life to steel. Besides, aluminum cassettes are more expensive than steel ones. Anodized aluminum parts are especially popular with fans of reducing bike weight to the maximum. Waitwinners.
- Titanium, although heavier than aluminum, is lighter than steel. It is strong enough to handle any heavily loaded bike assembly for long periods of time. This material and its alloys do not rust. Minus one. the high cost of products from it. If you do not have a goal to reduce the weight of the bike as much as possible, then it is better to get the most advanced steel cassette for the money that will hold more and last longer.
The bike cassette can be dialed from a different number of stars:
- 7. can be seen on older bicycles, the same model years as the ratchet.
- 8-10. the most common, used today on many bicycles, from mountain to road.
- 11. by Campagnolo. They can only be installed on the bushings of this company.
The number of stars and their range is indicated on the cassette label. For example, the inscription “11-36T, 10 speed” means that the smallest sprocket has 11 teeth, the largest has 36 teeth, and there are 10 of them in total.
The number and range of cassette sprockets determines compatibility with a specific bike type:
- Mountain. Rear transmission units with 8-10 stars. The smallest should have 11-12, the largest 28-36 teeth.
- Road racing. Cassettes have the smallest sprockets with 11 teeth and the largest with 22-27 teeth. Campagnolo 11-Star Attachments are only compatible with this type of bike.
- Urban, cross-country, folding. Devices with the smallest sprocket on 12 teeth and the largest on 27 teeth are suitable.
There are five types of cassettes according to the type of assembly:
- Dismountable. Most bike cassettes, except for the smallest two, are riveted or screwed together. This is necessary for the availability of service and assembly. But this design is too heavy and clogged with dirt.
- On the spider there are some structures assembled on an aluminum frame, which is called a spider. Two smallest stars are riveted to it too. They are famous for their light weight and are excellent for cleaning from dirt.
- Several spiders bear rare and expensive items, assembled from two parts, 2-3 stars each. Convenient when you need to replace one of the two worn parts, and not replace the entire cassette. As with one spider, they are lighter than common collapsible ones, and they are even easier to clean.
- OpenGlide is SRAM’s one-piece construction designed exclusively for road bikes. It is held on the splines of the ratchet drum only by a cover at the base of the largest sprocket and an aluminum nut in the smallest sprocket.
- The X-Dome is the same monolithic device from SRAM, differing only in the way it is mounted on a ratchet. If in the upper part of the small sprocket it is fixed in the same way as the previous structure, then at the base the fastening is the largest star, and not a separate cover. To reduce weight, often the largest locating star is made of aluminum.
Varieties of cassettes for bicycles and their replacement
Older bicycles were equipped with an outdated drivetrain assembly called a ratchet. It is screwed on a large diameter thread onto the rear wheel hub. Its ratchet mechanism is not a separate unit and cannot work independently. When the ratchet is removed, everything is twisted at once: the sprockets and the ratchet.
There is another way to connect the rear sprockets to the wheel. New bicycles are equipped with a more advanced transmission unit. a cassette. If you need to remove it, you can easily separate the set of sprockets and the independent ratchet. All modern bicycles have such an easy-to-maintain unit.
Removing the bike cassette
Replacing the latest generation Shimano’s Hyperglide bike cassette from the ratchet or rear wheel hub requires two special tools and one common tool.
- The chain key, which is essential for holding the cassette itself. You need to choose the right one: SR-1 for 10 sprockets, SR-2 for 11 sprockets or less, SR-11, HCW-16.
- Puller FR series with 12 hooks, because this is how many splines the end clamping nut has, which can be seen in the third figure.
- 21mm spanner, large adjustable wrench or vice fits. But a 21mm socket wrench is preferable.
One of the FR-1 or FR-5G pullers should loosen the clamping nut. The tool number FR-5G has a guide that makes the work of twisting the nut much easier. Without a guide pin, it is difficult to hold the tool in engagement with one hand when grasping the chain wrench with the other. Using a large ratchet wrench with a set of sockets makes it much more comfortable to hold any puller in place.
The fourth picture shows the most popular pullers:
- left FR-1 with 12 long splines on modern Shimano cassettes;
- right FR-5G with rail for all SRAM / Sachs and most HGs.
In this picture, you can see that the FR-5G tool is already installed to release the clamped nut.
The next tool you need is any device to keep the cassette from rotating backwards (counterclockwise) as you release the locked nut. This cannot be done with a large sliding gas wrench, as it tends to bend or scratch the teeth of the sprockets.
If you do not have a chain wrench or are trying to change a particularly stubborn cassette, you can put a short piece of chain on one of the stars and clamp it in a vice, as shown in the sixth picture.
The length of the piece of chain and the jaws of the vise is enough to grip the largest star. You don’t have to have a big carpentry vise, no one else has had to twist a nut so tight. It is enough to have a small hanging vise that you can hold in your hand.
How to Install Cassette on Rear Wheel. Cassette on a Bike. Shimano XT M770
However, the best way to hold the rear cassette is to use a model SR-1 chain wrench or similar, which can be seen in the seventh image from the left.
By attaching a 12 ” adjustable wrench, a wrench from a set, or even a large 21mm ratchet arm to the FR-5G puller, the socket nut can be loosened.
While holding the chain whip, turn the adjustable wrench counterclockwise to loosen the jammed nut. She and the little star have notches on their contact surfaces. So you will hear a few clicks when you release the nut.
Loosen a little, remove the chain grip and wrench, and unscrew the clamping ring. As a result, everything should look like in the eighth image.
Now it is enough to lift the cassette off the ratchet sleeve. But be careful to hold on to the outer two smallest sprockets, because they are not as tightly locked together as the others.
Remember how each sprocket fits onto the ratchet for later replacement. Note that one of the splines on the ratchet drum has the smallest width and corresponds to a narrow slot on each sprocket in the cassette. All of them should line up in one line. The ratchet after removing the cassette looks like in the ninth image.
Mostly the ratchet sleeve is made of solid steel. On some road bikes it may have an aluminum outer drum to reduce weight. Once you remove the cassette from such a ratchet, you can notice where dents remain on the soft splines and which sprockets are often loaded. The dented splines, by the way, make the job of removing the cassette very difficult.
A bicycle cassette is a pyramid made up of stars of different sizes, which is the node of a high-speed chain drive. The sprockets are separated by an equal distance between themselves by rings or, in some expensive models, by an internal spider frame. Together, all these parts form the body of the device.
How to Install a Bicycle Cassette. The EASY Way!
The cassette is mounted on the bike to the drum of the ratchet mechanism along the slots. The ratchet itself in a cylindrical body is attached to the wheel hub with similar hooks. It is the separate cylindrical mechanism on the rear wheel that bursts with a free roll and engages tightly during pedaling. In the cassette, there are no dogs, no cogwheels.
The cassette body is finally fixed to the rear wheel by an external clamping nut screwed into the internal ratchet mechanism. She and the smallest sprocket have teeth on their mating surfaces to prevent unwinding while riding.
Installing a cassette
Replacing the cassette consists in simply lifting it up from the wide splines of the ratchet sleeve and pushing a new set of stars back along the grooves in them.
Reinstalling the cassette is as easy as removing it. This is essentially the reverse operation. The sprockets should fit snugly on the ratchet splines. It must be remembered that one of the slots is different in width from the others. Be careful. Be careful not to damage the spline flange when putting on the last two small sprockets. Knowing this, it is enough just to put the cassette body (rings and stars) on the ratchet and finally screw the clamping nut along the thread.
Be careful. Observe the order of installation of the sprockets and spacer rings, which are simply typed onto the splines of the ratchet sleeve one by one. Each spacer ring has two small pins that must fit exactly into the corresponding holes in the sprockets. If this is not done, the sprockets near the ring will be placed too far apart, which will ruin the precise operation of the speed switch.
You need to tighten the end nut firmly with the same puller and a large wrench. We don’t want the cassette to spin on the road, so it’s a good idea to put the wheel upright and push down on the key lever firmly. But don’t push with your foot! It is recommended to apply a force equal to 21.7–36.2 N ∙ m (about 3 kgf ∙ m). The nut is screwed in clockwise, the ratchet is locked in this direction, so you do not need a chain wrench to install the cassette.
The lubricant should be used like a tube-type bicycle grease or any other non-lithium, dust-repellent oil.
After assembling the cassette, make sure that the sprockets do not wobble relative to each other. It is also a good idea to make sure that the distance between them is the same. If everything is correct, then put the wheel on and go for a drive!