Necessary tools for boring / disassembling
It is recommended to use mounting paddles for wheel boring. They are made from either plastic or metal. The rounded edges of the paddles prevent damage to the rim or tire. The bending of the mounting feet makes it easy to pick up the rim when disassembling, and just as easily replace the rim in the reverse process.
In the absence of shoulder blades, you will have to use the tools at hand. However, this greatly increases the risk of damage to bike parts. In fairness, it must be said that in most cases, boring can be done without using a tool. However, these do not always work, so the edits should be.
Tubeless wheel repair
If there is a tubeless wheel on the bike, things are a little more complicated. It is unlikely that it will be possible to repair it in the “field” conditions, so they take a camera on long trips. In case of problems, the tubeless wheel is made “chamber”. But at home it is quite possible to carry out an independent repair of the “tubeless”.
If you need to put a tire on a wheel without using a camera, then:
- Rim tape is glued.
- If the tire is new, then you need to give it the correct shape. For this, the wheel is assembled in a “chamber” version and it is kept in this form for one day. After a day, the camera one side of the tire is disassembled and the camera is removed.
- The nipple is inserted and secured.
- A sealant is poured into the wheel. Usually, one wheel requires from 50 to 100 grams.
- The wheel is skirted and inflated. It is very important to use a sufficiently powerful pump at this stage. Precisely because hand pumps cannot create strong pressure, it is difficult to repair a tubeless wheel in the “field” conditions.
- After the wheel is inflated, you need to shake it, twist it. To distribute the sealant over the entire surface and seal the smallest holes.
That’s it, the bike is cured, the puncture is repaired. You can go further.
How to inflate a tubeless bicycle wheel
The most common reason for the impossibility of further cycling is such an annoying, but inevitable thing with regular riding, a puncture. It’s good if this happens near the bike shop. But cycling paths are inscrutable, and workshops are not located at every step.
So every outdoor enthusiast just needs to be ready to deal with this problem. over, it is not at all difficult to solve it. Disassembling the wheel and repairing the camera is not tricky.
Disassembling a wheel
- The first thing to do for disassembly and repair is to remove the wheel from the bike. If it has disc brakes, then everything is simple. The eccentric spins up, the wheel is removed. In the case of v-brake rim brakes, you must first release the brake, and only then unscrew the eccentric and pull out the wheel;
- Second. Vent the remaining air from the chamber. To do this, it is enough to press on the nipple stem, and the air will come out by itself. Naturally, after unscrewing the nipple cap.
- Third. It is necessary to pry the side of the chamber with a mounting spatula, and carefully moving it along the rim, disassemble the wheel on one side. Everything, access to the camera is obtained.
- Fourth, to remove a camera with a Schroeder nipple (or automobile), you just need to pull it out. The Presta system camera is additionally secured with a nut that can be easily unscrewed by hand.
Repairing the camera after damage
So, in the hands of the camera, next to the disassembled wheel. What to do next? And then you need to find a puncture. For this, the camera must be pumped up. It will not work to pump, there is a hole in it. It is just the air coming out of the hole and its hissing that will help to find the source of the problem. Perfectly. When the hole is found, you need to get the glue and patches from the bicycle medicine cabinet. And a small piece of abrasive skin or “grater”, in each first aid kit in different ways.
Be sure to clean the puncture site and then apply a thin layer of glue. And let it dry for 5-15 minutes (the exact time is written on the glue package). After the glue dries, you need to attach the patch to the hole and press firmly. It is not the time that matters, but which the patch is pressed, namely the pressing force. The stronger the better.
While the glue dries, there is no time to waste. Something has punctured the camera, and this “something” is probably still sticking out in the tire. From the inside. A thorough inspection of the inner and outer surfaces of the tire should be carried out. If the look did not find anything, it is necessary to very carefully run your hand along the inside of the tire.
Sometimes a foreign body can be so small that it is almost impossible to notice it visually. However, you need to look for it with your fingers very slowly and very carefully, observing all precautions.
After the puncture is repaired, foreign objects from the inside of the inner side of the tire are removed (or you can be sure that they are not there), you can start with the rim of the wheel.
Assessment of wheel wear and damage
When disassembling a wheel, it’s time to pay attention to its condition. If the flaws of the camera are detected immediately, then the detection of defects in the rim, spokes and tires requires some attention.
- Check for cracks and dents.
- If the brakes on the bike are V-brak, then the rim wear should be checked regularly. If its grooves are grinded, it needs to be replaced.
- Are all the needles in place.
- Are there any loose or weakened.
- Tread condition. How erased it is.
- The presence of cuts. It must be remembered that not only a through cut is dangerous.
- The presence of scuffs. In some cases, incorrect adjustment of the brakes can lead to wiping through the tread.
A bicycle is a rather complex technical product. However, many cyclists can easily cope with its maintenance and repair on their own. If you pay enough attention to your two-wheeled friend, then he will delight the owner for a long time. Sorting wheels and repairing cameras is one of the simplest elements in bike repair and maintenance, and it’s not hard to grasp this wisdom. You don’t need much for this. a pump, a bicycle first aid kit, mounting blades and skilled hands.
I remember the deeds of bygone days. A garage neighbor (90th year) undertook to dismantle / mount a wheel. No one has ever seen tubeless cameras. It took 2 days to remove the tire, and a day to install it. It turned out that I put it incorrectly (not by rotation). All hands are beaten, tools are broken. Neighbors suggested. go to a tire fitting (he never heard such a thing). He returned in half an hour with a normally made wheel. I gore for him: “What do you want. equipment is there, and all that.” He told me: “What the hell is the equipment! The same sledgehammer and the same mount. Just have experience, that’s all. 15 minutes of work.” This was the first tire fitting in the city, as it turned out, they have not yet acquired the equipment. the initial accumulation of capital.
Mastak: itself changes the nipple with every dismantling
A nipple costs 30 rubles, it’s a shame to save on such trifles. “Standard” wheels are mounted on the machine, non-standard by hand, with the help of a sledgehammer and such a mother.
AK: Technology, tubeless wheel assembly:
Tubeless Dos And Don’ts | How To Set Up Tubeless Tyres
First encountered Michelin tubeless tires in 1986. Then they were put on the VAZ eight. I tried everything. And glue and remove and put on with flagella holes. When pumping a tubeless tire, on the recommendation of the magazine “Behind the Wheel”, I used the pressure from another tire. Today, I go to the tire service stupidly. I am bored with amateur performances and experiments! By the way, the car was not my hands for a long time. Only in the garbage service. 50. I’m just ashamed to stand aside and watch people disfigure.
It turned out to replace the nipple on our own. He squeezed one side of the tire, turned the wheel and squeezed the other side, easily reached the nipple with his hand. For squeezing, I used a wooden block and a lever from a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of about three meters. I inserted the pipe from one side into the hole (stranglehold) in the brick foundation of the house. The pipe in the photo was bent to me. Before that I tried a pipe thinner, like 32 mm, bent.
Since I don’t know what rubber is lubricated with in tire fitting, the nipple before planting was lubricated with grease, which is used when connecting sewer pipes, this grease does not seem to destroy rubber. Tube on
Well, then landing the tire on the rim with the help of an explosion, thanks to YouTube, I saw enough of the video and it turned out, but the first time was unsuccessful.
Pre-unscrewed the nipple from the nipple. It is necessary! Otherwise, I cannot imagine the consequences of the explosion.
And so, I poured some gasoline into a plastic bottle, 100 grams, 80th gasoline. I pierced a hole in the cork of the bottle with an awl. While squeezing the tire, I injected a little gasoline from the bottle into the middle of the tire in three places around the perimeter. The duration of each injection is one second. But I punctured a large hole in the cork. a millimeter and a half two, you can stab a smaller one. I rolled the wheel so that the gasoline spreads inside. Burning torch on a stick 1.5. 2 meters (the length of a stick, not a torch), and began to poke a torch into the tire. For some reason, it did not explode, and I pressed the tire with a torch, from the pressure a hole was formed in the middle of the tire. Cotton! The tire snapped into place, but squeezed my torch along with the thin end of the stick. I had to squeeze the tire on a new one, it squeezed out a second time easier, maybe because it was lubricated. He injected gasoline again, and poured a little on the tire in the place of arson. He took a stick with a torch and a stick without a torch with a thick end. Burning gasoline on the tire with a torch, and immediately stung the tire with a stick without a torch. This time the cotton was stronger, the tire sat in place, and the nipple hissed. The wheel did not fly up, as some people write on the Internet. Here is the result, only a stick with a torch got into the frame, the second stick did not get into the frame.
Then for about five minutes I pressed the tire with the unscrewed nipple so that the wheel “breathed”, and the remnants of gasoline vapors came out of the middle
JuHa: I first encountered Michelin tubeless tires in 1986. Then they were put on the VAZ eight. I tried everything.
Share your experience
I still have to change the nipple on the second wheel, the rubber on it is very cracked, but the air still holds.
I have not tried it myself and have not seen it, but I read about this method:
The rim trays are lubricated with soapy water (by the way, this is the kind of lubricant we use in tire changers). 2. A rope ring (with a small gap) is put on the tire in the middle of the tread. 3. A stick is installed in this gap. It turns out something like a gate. 4. We rotate this collar, the tire is compressed in the middle, the beads of the tire go to the rim. 5. When the beads are tight enough to the rim, you can start pumping. Better, of course, with a compressor. 6. When the sides are in place. remove the rope, adjust the pressure, screw the cap onto the nipple. 7. Drinking beer.
Well, explosions are certainly not for everybody.
That’s because of these “subtleties” stupidly eedil on tube tires. I used to go, now it’s too lazy. Not to drive. to poke around in the car, but I don’t earn so much money that I would go to the service for every little thing.
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This is a terrible word “breakdown” How to correctly return a tire to a rim
Any novice jeeper of the word “breakdown” is afraid of more fire. Very often in response to the question: “Why don’t you lower your wheels?”. you hear. “I’m afraid to sort it out.” But there is nothing wrong with that. A common minor nuisance, which takes only a few minutes for seasoned jeepers to resolve.
In the overwhelming majority of cases, the tire first peels off from the outer side of the disc, but if you do not notice this immediately and stop, then after a while the tire will come off the inner side. If this happens, then it will most likely not work to fence the wheel without removing it from the car. It will be necessary to dismantle it, put the disc on some elevation, for example, on a stump, so that the tire hangs in the air, then stand on the tire (preferably two people) so that it is fixed on the inner side of the disc. Then, without turning the wheel, proceed to the procedures described below.
If you get carried away with the fight off-road, not paying attention to the fact that the car has not been driving for a long time and the steering wheel is dangling in your hands, then you can finish the game until the tire is completely removed from the disk, if this happens, you should not be afraid, just like in the first case, remove the disc from the car and put it on a dais, then use two pry bars to put the tire back in place and follow the instructions given above. The only thing that you should definitely pay attention to: the tire should be worn from the outer (front) side of the disc, there is less rim, it will not be possible to pull the tire through the inner side.
But typical for this trouble is still a breakdown only from the outside, we will talk about it. Among the jeep fraternity, there is an opinion that it is easier and faster to fence a wheel by means of an explosion of gasoline vapors. In fact, this is not the case. For “explosive beading” it is still necessary to hang the wheel with a jack, and preparation for picking up with gasoline takes as much time as using a compressor. In addition, the shock loads from the explosion can deform the cord or cause the tire to catch fire. Therefore, I strongly recommend that you do without playing with pyrotechnics when boarding.
How to inflate and seat a tubeless tyre that will not hold air
After you have zipped the wheel in the field, you need to drive further with the utmost care, because no matter how carefully you wipe the disc before inflating the wheel, moisture still remains on it, which means that the danger of disassembling it increases again. Now let’s go directly to the process of fencing a tubeless tire.
In order to fence a wheel, it must first be hung above the ground so that the tire takes its natural shape. If the tire is in the ground, it will not be possible to fence it.
Reasons for disassembly
Practice shows that scooter owners have to remove the tire for the following reasons:
- the old tire is in poor condition, in some places the cords are visible;
- the tire is broken, it is necessary to restore it;
- the camera burst, because of which it needs to be replaced;
- “ghoul” appeared on the surface.
How to quickly and effortlessly inflate a scooter and motorcycle wheel?
Many bicycles come with compact hand pumps. It seems that you know as well as I do that while you “breathe” one and a half or two atmospheres into the tire with such a “magic wand”, you will get tired so that you will not want to go anywhere. And then, you know, the second wheel is next in line! And the degree of reliability of this kind of plastic compressors leaves much to be desired: then some part will fall off, then the stem will bend, then the check valve will stick. In one season on my bike, I scrapped a couple of these “hand trainers”. And the eight-year-old son, without the help of adults, is not able to pump up the wheel on his “friend” with such a device.
Oh, to combine the ease of use of a car compressor with the compactness of a hand-held bicycle pump And while I was dreaming about this miracle, the manufacturer of electric compressors Berkut, well-known to all motorists, has already created such a “device”! Imagine, in appearance. an ordinary bicycle pump, except that it is packed in an aluminum case and does not have a handle, which traditionally has to be pulled up and down. On one end of the Berkut Specialist VL-1000 there is a hole for screwing a small hose, and on the other there are two buttons and a connector for recharging the pump from a 220 Volt network. At both ends of the pump, everything is closed with dust and moisture-proof rubber plugs.
There is a mechanical pressure gauge on the hose, thanks to which you can not by touch determine the degree of inflation of the bicycle tires, but what is called with the help of an accurate device. At the end of the hose there is a fitting for the wheel valve (in the common people “nipple”). In fact, there are two fittings, one is screwed onto the other: this design allows the compressor to be used to inflate tires with “nipples” of different standards.
The Berkut Specialist VL-1000 is switched on and off with the help of a large red button, which, as we said earlier, “settled” on the end of the pump. There is a smaller button next to it. it is responsible for the performance of the LED flashlight. Why does a compressor need a flashlight? Well, don’t tell me If the need for pumping the wheel arose after sunset, the built-in LEDs will help you quickly find the “nipple” and screw the fitting onto it. And to find in the dark the same cap from the nipple or some other “waste” with a flashlight is much easier than without it.
Does Berkut Specialist quickly inflate a 27-inch bicycle tire? Almost instantly. To the rims, this battery compressor inflated a flat tire to two “points” in 13 seconds! The instructions for this “gadget” say that it is not recommended to inflate more than two wheels up to 28 inches at a time, as this can lead to overheating of the pump. And if the wheels are of a larger diameter, then you need to take a break after “inflating” each wheel. Well, I don’t know, having pumped two “twenty-seventh” wheels in a matter of seconds, the pump was still at a cool outside temperature. By the way, you can use the pump in the temperature range from minus 10 to plus 45 Celsius.
If we continue the topic of the technical characteristics of the Berkut Specialist VL-1000, it should be noted that in one minute the pump is able to pump up to 10 liters of air from the atmosphere into the tire, and the maximum pressure produced by the device is as much as 8 bar!
Although the Berkut Specialist VL-1000 is marketed as a bicycle compressor, we decided to test if it can become a friend to motorcycle tires. The wheel of a pit bike has about the same diameter as a bicycle tire, but due to its higher profile and wider width, it requires a significant amount of air. But our subject filled the rear tire of the pit bike to two atmospheres in just 34 seconds. It took ten seconds more to inflate the front tire from 0 to 2 units (the fact is that the front wheel is one and a half times larger than the rear one).
It can be said that this rechargeable bicycle compressor is an ideal solution not only for pedal horses, but also for motorcycles or scooters. After all, in the end, two-wheeled vehicles do not have a 12-volt outlet into which an electric car compressor could be inserted, and if we talk about pit bikes, then many of them do not only have a “cigarette lighter”, but even a battery. Naturally, this pump will be a great help in everyday life: pumping up the same soccer ball or pumping up tires in a baby stroller with the Berkut Specialist VL-1000 is as easy as shelling pears.
How to disassemble a wheel on a scooter (photo and video)
Among inexperienced owners, the question often arises about how to properly disassemble and then fence a tire on a scooter. The work is simple, but it has a number of nuances. If you do not follow a number of recommendations, a perfectly suitable tire can be easily damaged. Even if the current rubber is in a deplorable state, and there is no point in putting it back, it is still important to do it correctly without damaging the disc.
There are a lot of articles on the Internet on the topic “How to pump up a wheel without a compressor”. Which of these techniques are effective and safe, and which should not be resorted to, says the Za Rulem expert.
A completely banal way is to turn to professionals, that is, truck drivers. The fact is that any truck with pneumatic brakes can supply dried and purified air with high pressure through a hose, which a thrifty trucker always has with him.
Now at many gas stations there are points for inflating tires, and, perhaps, the easiest way is to drive a wheel to it on a hitchhiking and also return back to your car. If all of the above did not work, then read about the techniques that we personally tested for effectiveness:
How to Pump a Mountain Bike Bicycle Tire With Presta Valve
How to inflate a bicycle wheel with a hand pump?
A bicycle pump is an essential piece of equipment in every cyclist’s arsenal. Its presence allows you to solve the issue of tire pressure on your own, and not to drive the bike to a gas station or service.
Hand pumps presented on the market are usually divided into 2 categories: ordinary and equipped with a pressure gauge. a special recording device. The latter allow, when pumping, to be guided by the pressure values in the wheels, and not “by eye”, constantly checking the tire hardness. For riding on asphalt tracks, the recommended pressure is 3.5 atm., For driving on the ground. 2.8 atm.
How to pump up a bicycle wheel with a hand pump
Meanwhile, cyclists feel too little or too much pressure much more acutely. When the wheel is not inflated to the desired value, you have to apply more effort when driving. the contact area of the tire with the surface increases. If the wheel is pumped too much, this is also not good, as it can lead to a defect in the camera or its explosion.
The tire pressure is checked with a pressure gauge. Usually, the pressure that is recommended for your bike or tires is indicated in the technical data sheet of the two-wheeled vehicle, or directly on the tire itself on the side (more often indicated in bars. bar, or pounds per square inch. PSI).
Optimal tire pressure parameters
The pressure level in the tires is an indicator that every cyclist must follow without fail. After all, the number of atmospheres directly affects the speed of movement and the quality of adhesion of the wheel to the road surface.
The middle scale looks like this:
- Moving on asphalt. from 2 to 3.5 atmospheres
- Driving on a dirt road. from 2.5 to 2.8 atmospheres
In order to determine the level of pressure in the tire, you can simply carefully feel the wheel around its entire diameter. If you don’t feel any flexing, then everything is fine. But it is better to carry out this procedure using a special pressure gauge, which is usually built into a hand pump. The second method guarantees you more accurate results and is suitable for bikes with any type of rubber.
Experienced cyclists know very well that an under-inflated wheel can lead to a number of unpleasant consequences. It:
- Low level of maneuverability
- High risk of punctures and other damage
- Significant power costs when crossing difficult terrain
But if the wheels of your bike, on the contrary, are too inflated, you may encounter difficulties such as:
- Poor adhesion of the wheel to the road surface
- High degree of danger of emergencies
But if the required pressure level is observed in the tires, the most comfortable ride awaits you, which will bring extremely positive emotions.
Most modern models of two-wheeled vehicles are equipped with an automobile nipple (Schroeder). These tires can be inflated at any gas station. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:
- remove the cap from the nipple, connect the pump hose;
- if the wheels are pumped with a universal compressor, you need to fix the jumper outward with the large end;
- close the front cover, connect the device;
- in the process of inflation, you should carefully monitor the level of tire pressure.
If the bicycle “rubber” is equipped with a Presta nipple, an adapter is required, a compressor is connected to it. When using a universal bicycle pump, the jumper should be installed with the thin end outward. The pumping is repeated until the pressure level reaches the desired mark.
How to inflate a flat tire with a hand pump?
Probably every cyclist at least once in his life faced such a problem as a deflated camera. And according to the law of meanness, this trouble most often lies in wait for us somewhere on the road, away from home and the service center. Therefore, a cyclist must definitely master the skills of inflating a wheel, especially since there is nothing difficult in this.
Despite the fact that in the modern world there are many methods of inflating a bicycle wheel, most cyclists prefer a hand pump, because it is always at hand and can help out in case of unexpected wheel damage. Therefore, in this material we will consider this particular type of wheel inflation.
How to properly inflate your bike wheels
Driving on flat tires is fraught with many consequences: from deterioration in maneuverability and a decrease in speed dynamics due to an increase in the contact area of the tires with the ground, to punctures and wheel damage. In addition, excessive pressure promises a deterioration in traction and the risk of a chamber breakdown. We will tell you how to inflate the tires of a bicycle, what are the nuances of using a hand pump and whether it is possible to do without special devices.
The easiest way is to inflate the wheels of the bike with a hand pump. The whole process consists of several stages:
- the wheel is installed so that the nipple is at the bottom;
- the protective cap is carefully removed, air is released from the bicycle chamber;
- the hose of the device is inserted into the spool, the valve is turned out;
- the branch pipe is installed vertically, air is neatly pumped in due to the movement of the stem.
Check the nipple before hand pumping the wheels on a road bike or hybrid bike. Typically, these models are equipped with Presta devices, which require a special tool or adapter. Such a spool requires smooth manipulation.
Turn the wheel so that the nipple is at the bottom Specify the required pressure Remove the protective cap and release the air from the chamber Insert the pump hose into the spool Inject air to the required pressure level in the tire