How to glue the red sun bike camera

What to do if there is no glue

Repairing a bicycle tube without glue is also possible, but in two cases:

  • You do not have a repair kit at hand, the main task is to reach home. The main thing here is to create pressure in the chamber, which will press the patch. The patch can be made from electrical tape, a piece of a plastic bag, in a word, from any material that does not allow air to pass through.
  • On the contrary, the most professional and expensive option is vulcanization. With this method, the camera and the patch are tightly pressed against each other and, under the influence of temperature, are actually fused together. If you have heard about the fact that you can seal the camera with raw rubber. this is just the way. Of course, this is more reliable than a glue joint, but at home it is better not to do this. For vulcanization, heating up to 100 degrees and subsequent heating of 80 degrees is necessary. Even if you take the risk and do not regret the last iron, then there is a great chance to just ruin the camera.

How to remove the tire and remove the camera

  • We release air from the chamber. This can be done by unscrewing the spool from the nipple, or simply by pressing the spool, wait until the air is released.
  • On the opposite side of the nipple, insert the mounting, perpendicular to the plane of the wheel, trying not to touch the camera.
  • Using the assembly as a lever, we move the tire by the rim, in a small area.
  • Then we remove the tire from the rim with our hands.
  • Carefully remove the nipple from the rim and take out the camera.

How to find the place of damage

Now it remains to find the puncture site. How to do this. there are many options, we will list the main ones:

  • To begin with, we just try to find the place of damage by carefully examining the surface of the camera. If this succeeded, we proceed to the repair.
  • If the puncture site is not visually determined, we slightly pump it up and squeeze it, listening to see if the air is coming out where.
  • If this does not help, use the old method of gas workers. apply soap solution to the suspicious place and build up pressure again. Bubbles will form at the site of damage.
  • Another way is to immerse the camera in a bowl of water. Determine the puncture site by air bubbles.

If you find damage at the junction of the camera with the nipple, it is better to change it right away, ordinary repair tools will not help here.

If you find one damage, it is not a fact that it is one. Therefore, since you took apart the wheel anyway, look for other punctures. Then you will be proud of your foresight.

Removing a wheel from a bike

  • First, we disconnect the brakes (if they are rim) and remove the fenders if they interfere with dismantling.
  • We turn the bike upside down, lean on the handlebar and seat. Some people call it “mounting position”.
  • We unscrew the retaining bolts or eccentrics and remove the wheel.

How to quickly glue a bike camera

If you have a bicycle, then sooner or later you will face such a situation as a punctured camera. How to glue a bike camera?

There is one hundred percent life hack. put your bike at home and never use it. For all other cases. we wrote this article.

What glue to use

What is the best camera glue? Let’s analyze all the pros and cons.

First of all, you need glue, which, after drying, retains its elasticity, that is, does not harden. This is understandable. It is difficult to create a completely fixed connection on a flexible surface, therefore, the parts fastened together with a hardening compound will disperse over time and require repeated repair.

Therefore, all kinds of superglues such as “Secunda” and “Cosmofen” based on cyanoacrylate are not the best choice. As a temporary measure. quite yourself, in other cases it is better to take a specialized glue for rubber.

Let’s take a quick look at what the market offers us.

A line of all kinds of adhesives for rubber, the most famous of which is “Moment”.

Affordable, inexpensive, if you’re not in a rush. a good choice.

Red Sun, which is included in the bicycle tube repair kit. If you believe the instructions, then this is not really glue, but a cold vulcanization agent, which is much more effective.

Как заклеить камеру латкой Red Sun.

Tip Top SC 2000. Quite a rare two-component adhesive, but one of the most tenacious.

  • Used for gluing industrial rubber conveyor belts.
  • The action is similar to cold vulcanization.
  • Drying time: 2 to 4 hours.
  • Price: about 150 r.

How to put the wheel back together

  • We pump up the camera and check the quality of our repairs, looking for missed damage.
  • Letting out the air.
  • Carefully place the camera inside the tire.
  • Using the mounting kit, we install the tire and the camera on the rim, it is better to pump it up a little beforehand.
  • The wheel is fully inflated and locked into place.

Repair process

Bicycle tube repair consists of several steps. All of them can be done without any problems both at home and on the road. It will be necessary to disassemble the bicycle wheel, seal the hole and put everything back together. For an experienced cyclist, this procedure takes about 15 minutes, a beginner will need about half an hour.

How to glue a bike camera

As it turned out, many of those who own a bicycle have no idea how to handle tires and tubes and have never seen the process of repairing even the most common puncture. We will fill this gap in education. So, we fix the punctured wheel or change the tire. The narrative implies a bike of the MTB type, for a road bike, in principle, everything is the same, with the exception of minor nuances.

Release the brakes on the wheel being removed.

The V-BRAKE brake pads are very close to the wheel rim. Therefore, in order to service the brakes, you must first unfasten the brake levers and spread them apart. You also have to release the brakes when removing the wheels. The procedures for unbuttoning and fastening do not differ in complexity and are performed within a few seconds, but for many novice cyclists, as well as for those who rode only domestic bicycles, this operation is not obvious, so I ask experienced ones not to laugh.

Клеим камеру или заклеить камеру велосипеда

The release mechanism consists of a cable tip and a clamp mounted on one of the brake levers. First, a rubber corrugated cable sheath. which is located between the brake levers, move to the side of the cable fastening screw and expose the entire cable tip.

Then, by hand, we move the brake levers towards each other, removing the tip of the cable from the clamp.

We lower the clamp down and spread the brake levers to the sides. Done.

Now you can change pads, remove wheels.

The most important thing in this operation. do not forget to return everything to its place later, and do not leave with the brakes unbuttoned.

Turn the bike upside down. You can do everything in a supine position, but it’s more convenient. Great is usually quite stable on the handlebars and saddle. Be sure to remove your bike flask before rolling over to prevent it from leaking, and be careful not to damage the shifters and brake levers on the handlebars and the saddle itself if it occurs in the field.

We deflate the tire. We press on the spool in the valve and wait until most of the air comes out. After that, you can unscrew the spool completely and deflate the wheel completely. I do not advise unscrewing the spool without first lowering it. it can be shot pretty hard. The auto-type spool is unscrewed by the antennae on the cap. After the camera is released. screw it back so it doesn’t get lost and dirty.

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glue, bike, camera

Why is it necessary to release the air right now? If the rubber is “angry” and wide. when inflated, the wheel will not come out of the fork, the tire will cling to the brake levers. If there are slicks. you don’t need to lower it, but we are changing the tire. all the same, the air will have to be released, and if there is a hole in the wheel, then this procedure has already been performed automatically.

We remove the wheel. Remember or mark with a marker on the sidewall how the wheel stood, if it is in front and there are no other landmarks (like a magnet for a bicycle computer). On eccentric wheels. the eccentric is on the left side, and the rear wheel is on the wrong side. impossible.

Let’s get down to the process itself. If the wheel is back. put it stars up. If the wheel rim is single walled, the tires are usually easy to remove and put on with bare hands with little or no effort when the rims are double. most likely you will need mounting blades (assemblies). We are considering a difficult case. double rims. For singles. the same, only you can pick up the tire with your finger. If the wheel has been running for a long time, we push the sides of the tire inward, separating it from the rim.

The disassembly procedure begins with the part of the wheel opposite to the valve. We drive the mounting from above vertically down between the tire and the rim. Having retreated about 10-15 cm, we drive the second one next to it. Not too deep, only so that the hook of the erector can catch the bead of the tire. Here is the main subtlety. make sure that the camera does not get between the mounting and the tire / rim, otherwise it can be broken. Everything must be done carefully and accurately, without applying bad efforts. Better to jump off a couple of times than a hole in the camera.

Click on the first mounting (1), turn it down 90 degrees (it becomes perpendicular to the plane of the wheel), lifting the tire bead outside the rim. Holding it in this position, click on the second (2), then press both down simultaneously. As a result, part of the 15-20 cm side has already been removed. Move (a) the first assembly along the rim by 2/3 of the free area (1 “), take out the second one, retreat 10-15 cm from the edge of the already removed part (b) and repeat the procedure” insert \ press \ pull off “(2”, with ). We get approximately what is in the picture. Usually after that, further removal of the bead is easily done by hand.

If the rim is very shallow and the tire is stiff, the specified distances will have to be reduced and the number of de-beading iterations will increase. The principle remains the same. To repair the camera, it is enough to disassemble only one side without removing the tire from the wheel completely.

We glue. Let the air out of the chamber completely. Dry the place of gluing and clean it with sandpaper until a flat matte surface is obtained. Do not touch! Apply a thin even layer of glue to the camera on an area larger than the patch area by about half a centimeter on each side, and let it dry completely (10-15 minutes). While it dries. We carefully examine and probe the inside of the tire, in search of an object that punctured the camera for us. Otherwise, after assembly, we risk getting a new hole. If we observe a broken cord, cracks, etc., it is better to change such a tire. If the hole is made by a crawled cord. you need to pull out / break off this wire and put a patch on this place from the inside of the tire. And change it as soon as possible in the future. When the glue is dry. cut off one patch, remove the protective foil from the colored side of the patch, carefully apply the patch and press and iron it firmly, starting from the center. After that, the patch can (and should) be tapped evenly with a hammer, placing something even and smooth under the camera. In field conditions, you can step on it. Remove the transparent protective film from the patch. Everything, the camera can be mounted in place.

Putting it all back. We start with the chamber valve. we push this part of the chamber into the tire and insert the valve into the rim. Next, we move evenly in both directions, placing the camera inside the tire. In the process, you need to make sure that the camera is not skewed, the valve should come out of the rim at a right angle.

We also start putting on the tire bead from the valve and evenly in both directions, so that there are less distortions. We fill the last section of the board with assemblies, if the strength of the hands is not enough. The same as when disassembling, only in the opposite direction. Slide the assemblies from below, hook the rim with a hook, raise the assembly vertically. the board slides along it into the rim. At this stage, you also need to be careful so as not to damage the camera with the assemblies, pinching it between the tire or rim and the assembly.

If everything goes very tight (there are such combinations of bad rims and bad rubber), the board can be soaped. No oil at all, it’s death for rubber! Gradually move forward and put the tire on the rim completely.

If we change the tire to another or remove it from the rim. you need to determine which side to put it on. Most tires are labeled “Drive” with an arrow that indicates the normal direction of rotation of the wheel. If there is no such inscription, then the tire is either absolutely symmetrical and it does not matter how to install it, or the manufacturer. lazy person. In the latter case, you can try to determine the direction of rotation from the tread pattern. As a rule, evil rubber has a “herringbone” type structure, that is, the track resembles something like this: “9. Put the wheel back on the bike. There is one nuance in installing the rear wheel, which is not described on this site. Articles there are designed for the fact that you have a normal bike with more or less normal suspension.But there are also Shimano Tourney and frames without roosters.In this case, following the advice to fully lower the axles into the fork eyes will not work, the rear derailleur is attached through an adapter that reduces the length of the right rear eyelet In this case, lower the right side of the axle into the adapter until it stops, slightly tighten the nut, and by moving the left end of the axle center the wheel in the fork so that it runs parallel to the longitudinal plane of the bike, and not to the side. between the rim and the right and left stays of the rear fork.it should be the same if the rear wheel is correctly assembled and centered.When the wheel is positioned.finally tighten the nut and. If the wheel is attached with eccentrics, the procedure is a little more complicated, but the principle is the same. However, I have never seen eccentrics on the rear wheel of bicycles with this class of body kit.

FASTENING THE BRAKES. In this case, you need to check that the spout completely enters the bracket.

How to solve the problem quickly without glue

Sometimes there is no glue at hand, and the breakdown needs to be fixed urgently.

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If you just need to get to the house where you can completely repair the bicycle tube, then it will be enough to create conditions for pressing the patch to stop the air leak. To do this, you will need, as mentioned earlier, any material that does not allow air to pass through.

How to properly glue a bike camera

The most basic measures are: buying tools, purchasing a special anti-puncture tape. Regarding the set of tools, it is better to purchase a led first aid kit with a set of patches, glue, sandpaper. Because it is not known at what point your two-wheeled friend will need emergency repair.

KINGS OF HOLE

Among the “daily” adhesives and the “5-12 hours” group, almost all brands showed good results. The leader of the first group was “88-SA”, the second. “Radical”. Instant adhesives were pleased with their high strength, especially the gel “Super Moment” and “Super Attak”. The adhesives of the firms “Abro” and “Aljico” disappointed. Adhesives like “Red Sun” without special patches have no special advantages. The general takeaway from instant adhesives is that gel is the best to use. it is easier to work with. In any case, check the quality of the work. pull on the edge of the patch: does it come off? Then boldly go!

Bicycle Camera Repair Kits

They include everything you need to quickly fix wheel punctures. They necessarily include patches (rubber patches), both treated with glue and not, as well as glue and skin for stripping rubber.

Adhesives of other brands

Here are some of the manufacturers:

  • “Rogena”, Moscow.
  • Novbytkhim, St. Petersburg.
  • St. Petersburg Household Chemicals Plant, Russia.
  • ANAES, St. Petersburg.
  • Barnaul chemical plant, Russia.
  • Voronezh PO Impulse. Russia.
  • Nova Roll Co. Ltd, Germany.
  • Loctite, Deutschland GmbH, Germany “HI-TECHO”
  • Loctite Co. Ltd, Ireland.
  • JSC “Era”, Tosno, Russia.
  • Abro, USA

Why does the camera lower after repair?

The answer is simple and there are few reasons here:

  • The patch is unstuck and misses. this is unlikely, but it also happens.
  • Foreign piercing objects got into the wheel tire during installation. Small pebbles can play a bad joke.
  • There is a nail in the tire or something similar. He has already made one puncture, you glued it, but you have not got rid of the cause of the puncture. Exit: how to inspect the tire.
  • Spoke protection tape is dislodged or torn. The fact is that the tips of the spokes can pierce a bicycle tube as well as a nail.
  • And the main reason for instant damage to the camera is inaccurate editing. Either a screwdriver hooked and ripped out a piece or pinched the camera between the tire court and the rim.

How to properly glue a bike camera

We start fixing the camera by removing the wheel. To do this, simply disconnect the rim brakes and fenders, position the bike with the wheels pointing up. It remains to unscrew the bolts and separate the wheel from the body.

Tips on how to avoid punctures

To reduce the likelihood of unexpected tire and tube damage while riding, there are a few simple rules to follow.

  • Maintain the working pressure in the wheel at the required level. There is no specific figure here, since the nominal working pressure may differ for certain tubes / tires. For example, on mountain bikes the pressure in the chamber should be about 2.5-5 bar, and on road bikes it should be 6-9 bar. The bicycle tire has corresponding minimum and maximum pressure labels. It looks something like this. If the pressure is too low, it greatly increases the risk of puncture. It is worth remembering that when driving in winter or in the autumn-spring period, the temperature outside is lower than in the apartment. Therefore, on cold days, the chamber should be inflated a little more (because when the air temperature in a closed volume decreases, its pressure decreases). Therefore, if you pump up to 3 bar in the summer, then in winter you can increase the pressure by about 1 bar (but not higher than the maximum allowable).
  • Change tires after wear. With the depletion of its resource (wear of the tread), the probability of a puncture also increases. And if you have a worn out tire, and you began to notice that the wheel began to break through more and more often, you should think about replacing the tire.

On the bicycle parts market, you can find two more devices that are designed to simplify life (at least, they position themselves this way) when cycling. This is an anti-puncture tape and sealant, which is poured in a small amount into the chamber and is designed to “tighten” punctures while driving.

Anti-puncture tape is a strip of soft, rubberized plastic or, in more expensive products, Kevlar, which can be glued or simply inserted between the tire and the bicycle tube and protect against punctures. But there are pitfalls here. A cheap anti-puncture, firstly, does not always protect against punctures, and secondly, it can fall apart inside the tire and grind the camera into dust with its fragments, thereby dooming the latter to ejection. Plus, it’s overweight. In general, after sitting on the forums, I agreed that they are more hayut than praised.

As for the sealant, it’s not so good either. As a temporary solution, when you do not want to bother with replacing the camera, of course, you can use it. But the sealant does not seal the puncture completely, but only reduces air leakage. Plus, there were complaints after use, when they wanted to stick a patch on the puncture site.

In general, according to the editors, it is better to use better quality bicycle tires with built-in puncture protection, carry a spare camera with you and not bother with the above accessories.

How can you glue the camera

Not any glue or patch will work for fixing a puncture on a bicycle wheel. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on the topic of what can and should not be used to glue the bike’s camera. There are several options, which we will consider below.

  • Specialized repair kits. Many bicycle parts manufacturers produce so-called bicycle camera repair kits, which are usually a box, a crayon to mark the puncture site, a sander (usually a metal perforated plate or a piece of sandpaper), several patches of different shapes and sizes, and glue. The composition of the glue is specially designed for joint use with the surface of specific patches (with which it enters into a chemical reaction), therefore, using it in conjunction with patches from another manufacturer may not give a result. Fortunately, in most of these repair kits, the amount of glue is clearly calculated for the number of patches.
  • Chinese bicycle camera repair kits. Some riders underestimate the power of the Chinese industry and look at their harnesses with disdain. I can’t talk about everything (I’m sure that some of them are really terrible), but for the last 4 years I have been using exclusively Chinese patches from Red Sun (although this may not be a company, but the name of a repair kit). They are quite common. For several years of use, none of the patches flew off and did not allow air to pass through. And the cost of this product is lower than that of famous brands. The disadvantages include that the set contains only glue and patches, and what is most offensive, patch is incommensurably more than glue. Well, these are little things. In general, I advise everyone.
  • The third option is the most unreliable and therefore should only be used as a last resort. Here we have highlighted homemade patches that can be made from an old bicycle camera. Almost any plastic glue for rubber can be used as an adhesive. But in this case, the reliability of the patch is very low. Here they say so, “at your own peril and risk.” When using homemade patches, you cannot use glue, which, when hardened, can burst in places of bending.
  • Curing. It sounds good, it turns out very reliably (better than using any glue and patches, considering that you vulcanize in a specialized workshop), but in fact it is not worth the money and the hassle. It is quite difficult to do at home (and impossible in the field) and you can easily screw up the camera.
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What to do if the camera goes down

If, after you have sealed the puncture on the bicycle tube, it still lowers over time, then you should check:

  • Does the air poison from under the patch? To do this, the place with the patch should be immersed in water and make sure there are no air bubbles. If they are, then you will have to tear off the old one and glue a new patch.
  • Check for other, smaller punctures by lowering the camera in water. If found, glue.
  • Check for air leaks through the nipple. To do this, you should spit on it (or, if you do everything correctly, apply a soapy solution) and observe for several tens of seconds. If it passes, then bubbles will form on it. In case of leakage, tighten the nipple with a special wrench.
  • Whether the metallized cord has come out. It happens that over time on cheap bicycle tires the cord breaks down, which is a thin wire (more expensive tires use nylon threads and other materials), which can crawl out from the inside of the tire and constantly pierce the tube. If such a problem is found, the tire should be replaced as soon as possible. A temporary solution is to pull out the protruding cord wire and seal this place with a patch for the camera. But I repeat that in this case a tire replacement is required. this will be repeated regularly.

If the chamber is damaged at the base of the nipple (for example, it is frayed with the rim), then it is better to replace it immediately. As a rule, such defects cannot be repaired.

How to determine the puncture site

At first glance, a very simple procedure for identifying a puncture site can be significantly complicated depending on where you find a flat tire (at home or while driving). To simplify the search procedure, it should be borne in mind that in 90% of cases it is located on the so-called “contact patch” of the wheel with the road, usually no higher than 2/3 of the camera height. An exception may be damage from the rim (if the rim tape is out of order on the latter) or crawled out iron threads of the tire cord. Therefore, we will consider several options for how to find the hole in the bicycle chamber through which air is released.

  • The easiest way is to lower the camera into the water. It is enough to have an insignificant tank, the depth of which allows it to be immersed at least 2/3 of its height. We rotate the camera until we find air bubbles that will burst out of the water. After we take it out, we find the puncture site and proceed to repair.
  • If there is no water nearby, then fine dust (which can be found on unpaved roads) will come to the rescue. We increase the pressure in the chamber to strengthen the air stream from the hole and bring it a short distance to the dust (without touching it). We rotate the camera and look at the place where the dust begins to scatter.
  • If the weather is calm outside, the puncture can be detected by holding the camera to the wet wrist (the inside of it). The skin should be wet to make the search as easy as possible. For this method, it is also desirable to increase the pressure.
  • With a strong puncture in a quiet place, it can be detected by ear.

How to stick the patch correctly

After we have found and marked the puncture site of the bicycle tube, we should start repairing it, namely, glue this hole. To do this, you need to perform the following operations.

Red Sun Tyre repair rubber cold patch box. unboxing

  • If the chamber is wet (after searching for a defect), then wait until it is completely dry. Plus, it must be completely deflated.
  • Using sandpaper or a special perforated iron plate (which is usually found in bicycle kits for repairing cameras), we clean the puncture site until a matte color appears. The sanding area should be 1 cm larger than the diameter of the bicycle patch. After this procedure, we try not to touch this place with our hands or other objects.
  • Remove the protective film from the surface of the patch, which we will glue to the camera.
  • We apply glue. It can be applied only to the patch, only to the camera, or both. This information can be viewed on the glue tube. We also draw attention to the exposure time in air indicated in the same place and the time of complete solidification (the last two points may not be indicated).

Bicycle camera replacement

During long trips, it is advisable to carry with you not only a bicycle tool, but also a spare camera, with which you can quickly replace the failed one and go further. After all, this is much faster than waiting for the glue to dry on a freshly glued one. Therefore, in this section we will consider such a question as how to remove a bicycle tire and replace the camera when it is punctured.

  • Remove the wheel from the bike. To do this, we loosen the eccentric (or unscrew the fixing nut on the axis).
  • Wipe the side surfaces of the tire and rim from dirt with a rag.
  • We lay the wheel on its side and make a mark with chalk (or other improvised materials) on the tire opposite the nipple of the camera. If nothing is at hand, then we remember this position, relying on the side inscriptions. After that, the wheel should only remain on this side. This is necessary so that after we take out the camera and find a puncture on it, we can, by attaching it to the tire, find the place where a foreign object pierced the latter. In most cases, a nail or plant needle stays in the tire of the bike, and if not removed, it will pierce the new tube immediately after replacing it.
  • We unscrew the cap of the nipple of the camera, and, pressing on the nipple, let the air out until the edges of the tire “lag behind” the sides of the rim. You can keep the camera down completely.
  • Then, using a special bead blade (mounting), we pry the edge of the tire, and, resting the spade against the wall of the rim, pull its side out.

It is important not to turn it over to the other side until we find the puncture site and find it on the tire (by attaching a camera to it).

  • After that, we remove the bicycle tire completely (you can not do this right away, but try to find the puncture site by touch, but with the tire removed, of course, it is easier). We move its side, which remained between the walls of the rim to the edge and, holding the latter, pull it towards ourselves. After we remove it, we leave the tire in the same position as it was on the rim (to search for a foreign object stuck in it).
  • We check the inside of the rim and tires for debris and foreign objects, which should be removed before installing a new camera.
  • Then the punctured camera should be repaired, for example, after you arrive home from a bike ride, or during a halt.