How to glue patches on a bicycle camera

Prepare your camera

glue, patches, bicycle, camera

Take a grout or a piece of fine sandpaper and sand the surface of the camera where you will glue the patch until it is dull. Remove the protective foil from the bottom of the patch. Hold the patch around the edges, being careful not to touch the adhesive surface with your hands. Apply a small amount of glue to the puncture site itself and to the patch. Rub it evenly with a tube and wait a couple of minutes until the glue thickens and acquires a characteristic matte shade.

It is best to use rubber glue, the one that comes in the kits of all bicycle first aid kits. We do not recommend using superglue and other second-hand glue, as they corrode rubber and, when dried, stand up like plastic. You can also use self-adhesive, where you do not need to fiddle with tubes of glue, but they tend to be more expensive and there are fewer in the set.

Pump up your camera

After taking out the camera, pump it up and examine it to find the puncture site. This can be done in different ways. If the hole is large, then it can be detected visually, if it is smaller, then it is better to bring the camera to your face in order to feel where the air is poisoning. In some cases, if the puncture is completely invisible, and the wheel is lowered every 1-2 days, then you can find it by lowering the camera into the water. air will ooze at the puncture site in the form of bubbles. After finding the puncture site, circle it with a marker. This is optional, but pulling the camera back down will make it easier to spot the puncture.

Take off your camera.

Now you need to get the camera out of the tire. If your wheel is not eccentric, then you will also need keys to remove it. You can get the camera without removing the wheels from the bike, but it will be less convenient to glue it this way. It is worth remembering that it is not always possible to disassemble the wheel by hand with ease, so plastic assemblies will come in handy here. Never use screwdrivers, hex keys, or other wrenches, as this may damage the camera.

Glue the patch

Then stick the patch, pressing it firmly against the camera. It is best to press it down with something heavy for about five minutes, until the glue is completely dry. Pay special attention to the edges of the patch, the glue should grab evenly over the entire surface. If there is a film on top of the patch, it is better to keep it. this will help prevent the patch from sticking to the inner surface of the tire.

Don’t glue a large patch on a narrow camera.

Check the inside of the tire

After removing the tube, be sure to check the inside of the tire for any stuck sharp elements.



No matter how dodgy your bike is, no one is safe from a puncture in the middle of the road. It is advisable to always carry a pump, patches, glue, a set of editors, a felt-tip pen, a grout or a piece of sandpaper with you.

So, if you feel that the wheel is deflating, examine the tire tread for any sharp objects stuck in it. If you find a piece of glass or other object sticking out, carefully remove it and try to remember the place where it was. In the future, this will help you find a puncture in the chamber faster. In some situations, the puncture may not be from the top, but from the bottom of the chamber, the reason for this may be the spoke heads or the spokes themselves sticking out through the rim tape.

Install the tire

Once you have glued on, you can insert the camera back into the wheel. Gradually inflate the wheel, checking if the court of the tire is level with the rim, if the tube is lowering. Perhaps the patch did not adhere well or you missed another hole, it happens. If all is well, the tire is still, and the wheel does not deflate any more, put the wheel back on the bike and forward. on the road!

How to properly glue a bicycle tube and repair a tire

How to glue a bicycle tube:

Before installing the tube, double check the inside of the tire to determine the cause of the puncture. Once, after driving along a road along a river dotted with thorns from a hedge, I found about a dozen thorns! By matching the tube and tire, you can find the puncture site. Carefully run your fingertips around the inside of the tire to find the items that caused the puncture and remove them.

  • 7. Install the tire.
    After repairing the inner tube and checking the tire for glass, thorns or other sharp debris, install one bead of the tire onto the rim. Pump up the tube a little, install it in the rim. Insert the nipple into the hole provided for it. Starting from the side of the rim opposite to the nipple, use your thumbs to wrap the tire bead (the part of the tire directly in contact with the rim) over the rim. Walk in the same way over the entire wheel, leaving only a small section of the tire unset. Use your thumbs to carefully position the remaining bead section.
  • 8. Conduct a final check.
    Check that the tube is not pinched between the rim and the bead of the tire. Inflate the tire until it is still soft but retains its shape. Make sure the tire’s circular mark runs evenly over the entire length of the rim. If not, then you will have to lower the camera a little and align all the protruding places so that the bead runs evenly along the rim.
    Inflate the tire to the recommended pressure and check again that the tire bead sits evenly and that the tire does not bulge anywhere from the rim. Finally, check that the tread moves straight as you spin the wheel. If not, then you need to lower the tire and repeat this step.
    • When removing the tube from the tire, remember in which direction the tube was placed in the wheel. This will help locate the puncture site in the chamber after locating the puncture-causing object in the tire.
    • Use a ballpoint pen to mark the puncture site with a cross so that you know it exactly.
    • If you don’t have sandpaper, stone and pavement can be used instead.
    • To prevent the beads of easily inflated tires from falling into the rim groove on one side and swelling on the opposite side, install a thicker rim tape or two rim tapes.
    • To make it easier to take off and put on tight tires, fit the rim tape as thin as possible.
    • Follow puncture repair techniques carefully. The latter need to be installed on the rim section of the tire at the point where the nipple is attached. Make sure the tire beads are as deep as possible into the rim groove. When installing some hard tires, beads are indispensable. Use the special VAR 425 bumpers to help prevent puncture of the camera during installation.

    Two small side-by-side holes in the tube indicate a snakebite that occurs when the tube is pinched between the tire and the rim when driving over a sharp object. Also, these punctures are often caused by under-inflation of the tire to the recommended pressure. Make sure the sidewall of the tire is intact. Otherwise, you cannot do without urgent tire repair.

    The hole on the inside of the chamber indicates that the spoke head is to blame for the puncture. Check the entire length of the rim and make sure the spoke holes are covered with rim tape and the ends of the spokes do not protrude beyond the inner surface of the rim. If they protrude, then they need to be filed.

    A less common cause of puncture is the rough edge of the nipple hole. This puncture is located at the base of the nipple and it is not possible to glue the bicycle tube.

    • Several patches;
    • Rubber glue;
    • A pair of plastic edging;
    • A piece of good sandpaper;
    • Small adjustable wrench (when using wheels with hex nuts);
    • Or a hex wrench (when using wheels with hex nuts);
    • Reliable pump;
    • LED keychain (useful when using a dynamo);
    • A pair of spare tires (always carry with you).

    Everything except the pump must be packed in the seat bag.

    Check your bike tires weekly for cuts, sidewall bulges, and wear. Tires with cuts, bulging, and tires with skin visible through the tread are not subject to further use. Remove any pebbles or glass you find embedded in the protector. Use a pressure gauge to check the tire pressure. Tires inflated to the recommended pressure will puncture less frequently and last longer. Recommended pressure is usually indicated on the sidewall of the tire.

    Bring spare cameras and tires with you.

    In the rain, it is very difficult to glue the bike tube, as the patch will not be able to stick to the tube. In such a situation, you need to install a spare camera, which you should always carry with you! A spare tube will also be indispensable in the event of a tire bulging out of the rim or puncture at the nipple attachment point.

    Urgent bicycle tire repair.

    Fold a large piece of sturdy plastic in half. Trim the section to a size 10 cm wider than the cut and 5 cm wider than the tire. Remove the tire from the rim. Place a double layer of patch in the center of the gap or cut within the sheathing. Holding the emergency patch, which should protrude on both sides of the tire, install the first bead of the tire on the rim.

    READ  How to remove rubber from a bicycle wheel

    If necessary, install a new camera and pump it up a little. Install the second bead of the tire, with the last to install the glued section of the tire. Make sure the patch adheres to both sides. Inflate the tire and cut off any excess patch that should hold perfectly in place thanks to the tire’s air pressure.

    What glue to use

    The glue must meet a number of requirements:

    • after drying, the seam should not change properties during inflation / deflation of the wheel;
    • dry as quickly as possible (especially important when the hole happened during a bike ride).

    With regard to elasticity, any glue for gluing rubber is suitable, but not based on cyanoacrylate. everything that contains the words “superglue, cyanoacrylate, cosmophen”.

    • Good glue Moment for rubber It is inexpensive, easy to use, easy to wash if it gets on your hands. Disadvantage. not suitable for quick repairs, since the sonnet is from 30 minutes to two hours.
    • Adhesive for patches Tip-Top, however, dries for a very long time (2-4 hours).
    • Red Sun quick-drying glue, which was mentioned above (from the repair kit of the same name). It takes 5-15 minutes for the glue to dry completely. Not for sale separately, can only be obtained with a set.

    A few more representatives are written in the table.

    How to find a puncture

    • If the puncture is large, the air released from it will be very audible. There may be other minor damage, so be sure to apply the following methods.
    • Pump up the chamber, lower it into the water, either completely submerging, or gradually scrolling. Where the puncture is, air bubbles will be released. Remove the camera from the water, wipe it with a cloth, mark the damaged area with chalk or a marker.
    • Make a soapy solution. Bubbles will inflate in the punctured area.

    On a walk, where there is no water, you can strongly inflate the camera and try to find a hole using fine dust. For example, fine dust or sand on the road under a strong jet will swell to the sides.

    When the puncture or incision is located at the junction of the pin with the chamber itself, it is best to completely replace the chamber immediately. Repair in this case will be short-lived.

    Removing a wheel from a bike

    First unscrew the nuts on the bushing. In modern bicycles, the size of the nuts is 14 mm, the wrench is needed the same. If the wheel is fixed with an eccentric, then simply unclench it. Then remove the wheel and proceed to the next step.

    If your bike has a rim brake, the pads can get in the way. Then you have to release the brake so that the wheel has enough room to pass. Disc brakes are no problem.

    Repair kit or spare wheel?

    The choice is made towards what is more convenient to apply in case of damage. A spare camera is more expensive and weighs more. For the use of a repair kit, certain conditions are required.

    It is always desirable to have a repair kit. You don’t have to buy a spare if you have to drive close to home. But for long trips, a spare tire is required.

    How to properly glue the bike camera

    A bicycle tube is very vulnerable to punctures. Having run into even a small thorn, you can punch a hole. When hiking, far from home, you must have a patching repair kit with you, otherwise cycling may end very quickly. At home, it is much easier to glue the bicycle camera, since everything you need is at hand.

    What to do if there is no glue

    The camera can be repaired without glue. To get home quickly, you can rewind the patch tightly with a material that is breathable but snug against the rubber. It can be some kind of tape, electrical tape, scotch tape.

    There will not be a strong connection, which means you need to adhere to the rules:

    • drive constantly so that the wheel and patch are always under load, and the patch does not move inside;
    • it is better to move on a clean, flat road;
    • do not overload the wheel.

    Vulcanization is the most durable repair method. The patch is pressed tightly, then heating is done with a high temperature, so both surfaces are fused, forming a single material. Vulcanize in a tire fitting in a couple of minutes.

    How to glue the bike camera

    • The simplest is to use camera repair kits. Repair kits differ in composition and include different materials. For example, there can be patches of different sizes and shapes, sandpaper or metal float, glue, crayon. And sometimes there is no sandpaper or chalk. There are also sold large bicycle kits, called bicycle first-aid kits, which include both patches and other materials / tools for repairing, maintaining a bicycle (a set of keys, a pump, screwdrivers and others). It will be useful to have reinforced patches for repairing tires, in case of damage to which a chamber puncture is inevitable, it’s only a matter of time.
    • Self-adhesive patches. The package contains several round or rectangular rubber patches, one of the sides of which is greased with glue, sandpaper. An ideal option if a wheel broke through during a trip and you urgently need to glue it. It is enough to clean the place near the hole, remove all dirt, dust from it, apply a patch, wait 50-10 minutes.
    • Homemade patches and the right glue for them. The patches are made from an old unused chamber. Patches are cut to fit the puncture size so that the patch itself is larger and overlaps the damage with a margin. Regarding the glue, ordinary rubber glue is suitable. The disadvantage is that you have to spend time making patches and buying glue. Also, the drying time is long, it is necessary to press the camera under a large load. It is impossible to glue with quick-hardening compounds (superglues), their seams are inelastic, under mechanical stress, bends, they will crack. The adhesive must form an elastic seam.
    • a wrench to unscrew the nut from the hub (if the wheel design is without an eccentric);
    • tire removal tool;
    • sandpaper for sanding the surface;
    • patches and glue (or a patch of self-adhesive);
    • pump.

    Of the repair kits, the Chinese Red Sun is popular, it includes patches and glue under the same name. Despite the country of production (China), the repair kit is not inferior in quality to more expensive branded counterparts, but there is not enough glue to glue all the patches from the kit. When applying a normal layer of glue, it will turn out to glue only 10 patches, and they come with 24 or 36 pcs.

    It is worth paying attention to the following sets:

    • Rema Tip Top TT04 Sport;
    • Weldtite;
    • Park Tool Super Patch VP1.

    Repair kits are listed in descending order of price and quality. So, the Tip top set costs 400 r, for Weldtite you will have to pay about 300 r, and.

    If we compare sandpaper and a metal grater for stripping rubber, then there is practically no difference. The only nuance concerns the weather, when it rains, it is much easier to clean even the wet surface of the camera with a grater.

    Glue from one repair kit can be much worse for patching from another. The adhesives in the kits are designed specifically for their patches.

    With regards to self-adhesive patches, you can choose from:

    • Topeak;
    • Park Tool Super Patch GP-2;
    • Weldtite red devils

    What is the most “tragic” gap for the camera?

    The camera cannot be repaired, perhaps, with one type of rupture. a valve tearing along part of the circumference.

    A sign of such an event is a deafening hiss and the transformation of the camera into a “rag” in 3-5 seconds. After that, the bike camera can only be used for patches.

    How to prevent a puncture of the camera

    In many cases, the puncture can be prevented. To do this, you need to follow some simple conditions:

    • when installing the camera for the first time, it must be dry, preferably powdered with talcum powder;
    • there should be no debris, small stones in the tire;
    • the wheel should be carefully inspected. there should be no protruding ends of the spokes, the safety tape should be intact, fit snugly to the rim;
    • the valve of the chamber should be threaded into the rim perpendicularly, and not crooked;
    • During the ride, the experienced cyclist looks at the path 5-7 meters in front of the bike, noting “on the subconscious” the shine of fragments of glass, metal, planks, wire, accumulation of suspicious debris, small and sharp stones. If you cannot go around them, it is better to walk (in this case, the weight of the bike will not be enough to puncture;
    • if, nevertheless, a shard of a bottle “turned out” from under the front wheel with a crunch, swing your bike so that the rear wheel does not pass over the same dangerous object. After all, there is nothing more offensive than ripping through both wheels with the same shard of a bottle or a nail firmly sticking out of the board;
    • try to “jump” less from curbs by loading the rear wheel, especially if you have a lot of weight.

    How to properly glue a bike camera

    A punctured bicycle tube is the most common cause of a cyclist’s sudden stop. At the same time, oddly enough, a puncture is not a breakdown, but an annoying, but inevitable incident. Today we will talk about how to glue a bicycle camera.

    On the one hand, punctures of the camera on a bicycle should happen less often than on a car, because a car has twice as many wheels, and the area of ‚Äč‚Äčtheir contact with the road is also larger. But in fact, it turns out that cars for the most part move on roads with good coverage. And cyclists “collect” all sorts of dangerous items on the side of the road. And the tire on the bicycle is much thinner, and the load on it is greater.

    Why Camera Tears Occur

    In addition to commonplace punctures, camera breaks are possible on a bicycle.

    A gap is a linear defect that has not a point size, but visible boundaries. This is because when jumping off curbs, when riding aggressively, the camera experiences significant shock loads, and the quality of the rubber is very important. Sometimes, as in the picture, the rupture of the chamber occurs along with the tire.

    What to bring with you in case of a puncture

    Everyone is going on a journey in their own way, sometimes not at all. The understanding that you need to be “fully armed”, as a rule, comes after the wheel is lowered in bad weather far from home. As luck would have it, there is nothing, not even a pump. It takes a whole hour, and sometimes much longer, to ride the bike “on the bit”, returning home chilled and often at night.

    READ  How to Find a Bicycle Saddle

    To prevent this from happening, you need to have the following minimum set, which will save you in almost any situation and allow you to carry out repairs yourself:

    Pump. As the saying goes, “no comment.” If you have everything, but you forget the pump, as they say, “congratulations”;

    LED headlamp. Helps with repairs at night. Even if you have a super headlight on your bike, it will be inconvenient and often impossible to use it by deploying it to the place of the breakdown;

    Repair a Bike Inner Tube leak with super glue and paper!

    Spare camera. This allows you to avoid the most unpleasant incident. valve separation. Without a spare camera, you will be powerless. Among other things, it is very convenient to have a “watch” camera. You save travel time by simply replacing the camera. At home, you can safely fix the camera and put it back in, and hide the camera in the “glove compartment”.

    A set of editors. They are used to dismantle the wheel and to reassemble it. In Soviet times, they used a flat universal wrench, a screwdriver, a spoon handle. everything that can fit between the rim and the tire.

    Bicycle first aid kit
    Special mention should be made of the first aid kit. A “classic first aid kit” should have something like the following repair kit:

    • Rubber patches of different sizes (you can cut it yourself from an unusable camera).
    • Medium grit sandpaper, which can rub well on rubber, but looks lighter).
    • How to glue? The classic first aid kit comes with a small tube of rubber glue.

    The main task is to ensure that the camera glue does not “suddenly” dry out. The fact is that the glue can just “suddenly” dry out, and just when a puncture occurs.

    Modern versions of the first-aid kit are more compact, in terms of volume they occupy no more than a quarter of a box of matches. The fact is that instead of glue, they simply contain self-adhesive patches. Their great advantage is that you don’t have to wait for the glue to dry. You just need to firmly press the patch to the camera and “forget”.

    • It is also advisable to have a bottle of water.This may be water for drinking, or maybe after a puncture you will be able to find a small reservoir with a convenient place for descent.
    • Regular ballpoint pen
    • Mosquito and midge repellent. This is an important accessory, especially in summer in Siberia.
    • A pair of rag gloves (in case you have to remove the chain to free the rear wheel. it’s not good to ride with dirty hands).

    Sequence of actions in case of an accident

    How to glue correctly? Let’s analyze the sequence of actions in case you do not have a spare camera. As many years of practice show, the inconveniences in nature are as follows:

    • darkness;
    • inability to sit down;
    • the presence of mosquitoes, midges and other “bloodsuckers”.
    • After making sure that you are “shaking” hard and the wheel is flat, first of all try to pump it up. It is possible that the puncture was half an hour ago, and the camera is “holding”. In this case, after making one or two pumping up, you can safely get home and eliminate the defect in comfortable conditions.
    • If the wheel “drastically lowers” in less than a minute, you need to choose an even place, put the bike “on the bottom”.
    • Using the eccentrics, loosen the fastening of the wheel in the fork stays, be sure to disconnect the brake pads (V-brake) in order to remove the wheel. In the event of a puncture of the rear wheel, you need to move the lever of the shifters on the right to the smallest driven sprocket, and on the left to the smallest drive sprocket, disconnect the brake pads and, wearing gloves, remove the wheel.
    • The most crucial moment is that the wheel needs to be disassembled. To do this, the mounting is inserted into the gap between the rim and the tire, and then it acts as a lever, and the tire is outside the rim.
    • After running the assembly around the rim (parallel to the spokes), the tire begins to dangle. Now, on the other hand, you can pull out the camera and carefully, taking care not to damage, release the valve from the hole in the rim.

    Now you can diagnose. Sometimes it happens that the nail continues to stick out in the tire with the point inward. If overlooked, then, despite the repair, you will immediately receive a second puncture.

    • For diagnostics, the chamber is inflated to an elastic state.
    • The primary localization of the puncture is determined by the place of hissing.
    • If you place the camera with a hissing spot against your lips, you can feel the breeze from the air current.
    • You can then moisten the intended puncture site with water or simply spit on it. The place where the bubbles originate is the puncture site.

    Sometimes it is not possible to identify the hole. In this case, the entire chamber is wetted or placed under water (if possible). Sometimes it happens that the chamber is intact, but the valve is “poisoned”. If there is no spare chamber, then you can try to move the valve inside or cover it with chewing gum after pumping the chamber.

    • Once a place is found, it can be easily lost. We take a pen and mark it with a cross or a circle.
    • To properly glue it, we thoroughly dry the camera and clean the place with sandpaper about 1 sq. see based on a point puncture. You can not clean, but degrease, for example, with alcohol.
    • Then we also clean the surface of the selected patch.
    • The glue is smeared over the chamber (first layer), a minute or two is waited until the glue dries.
    • Then apply the second layer on top of the first, wait 3-5 minutes.
    • Then the surfaces are tightly connected, so that they do not “ride” relative to each other.
    • To glue the camera, the glue is kept for 1-3 minutes, and then the camera is carefully laid in place, a valve is threaded.
    • The wheel “skips” and slowly inflates.

    Of course, it is better to have a modern first aid kit without glue. Attached and “forgot”. Better yet, have a whole new bike camera. Better yet, try not to ride where there is a high risk of “catching a nail”.

    If you can’t fix the camera or you forgot something, then you have a way out of the situation: in the most extreme case, you can try to fill the tire tightly with grass or hay and carefully continue driving. In this case, you will move, although without the usual comfort, but much better than on the “bone shakers” that existed before the invention of rubber tubes and tires.

    How to disassemble bicycle wheels

    You shouldn’t have any problems with removing the wheel: all you need is to squeeze the eccentric handle, unscrew it a little and, when loosening, pull out the wheel. If you have rim brakes, you will also need to release them before doing this.

    Having removed the wheel, we release the air from the chamber (if it remains there), after which we proceed to the boarding. Its essence is to release the tire cord by pulling it over the rim.

    Then we take out the camera, having previously released the nipple from the socket.

    How to properly glue a bicycle tube

    When the camera is in your hands, take the pump, start pumping and at the same time look for a puncture (by ear or by touch). If the hole is too small to be found, use water (immerse the camera in water). But after this procedure, be sure to dry or wipe the camera in the place where you will glue.

    This is what an average bicycle tube puncture looks like.

    Having found the puncture site, we process it with emery. so that the patch is reliably glued.

    • Note! It is imperative to check the inner surface of the tire, as the cause of the puncture (glass, wire, etc.) may remain in it. In order not to check the entire tire, just look roughly where the puncture is relative to the nipple.

    Then we apply glue to the area the size of the patch and wait for a while (a minute or two), after which we strongly press the patch to the surface.

    After 5 minutes, the camera can be used again. Pump a small amount of air into it. so that it takes shape. Then insert the nipple into the hole in the rim, tuck the tube into place and fence the tire.

    And in addition to the repair kit, always carry a spare camera with you. Believe me, it will not be superfluous if you have no time to glue patches and / or find yourself in conditions in which it will be impossible to do it.

    How to glue the camera correctly, easily and quickly

    “Puncture” is not a problem for those who know how to properly and quickly glue the camera. Today we will teach it.

    Everyone who gets on a bicycle sooner or later gets “punctured”. What to do in such a situation? First of all, don’t panic. Well, then know that you should have at least a minimal repair kit with you whenever and wherever you are cycling. It should include:

    • pump (how to choose the right pump. find out here);
    • patches;
    • bead blades;
    • glue;
    • emery.

    Patches, glue and emery are usually included in the camera repair kit. There are also self-adhesive patches that do not require pre-application of glue, which means less time is spent.

    A repair kit that every cyclist should have with him at all times

    Better to see once than hear a hundred times. Therefore, we attach a video with a visual example on how to properly glue a bicycle camera:

    Would you like to receive our articles on social networks? Subscribe to our channels in. Telegram and !

    Bicycle camera repair, how and how you can glue the puncture

    Sooner or later, every cyclist experiences such an unpleasant situation as a puncture of the bicycle camera. If you find that a wheel has flattened at home is one thing (although it also requires some knowledge of camera repair), but what if you punctured it during a multi-kilometer ride, for example, somewhere in the field? How to determine the puncture site in such a situation, correctly change and glue the bicycle camera, what glue and patches are best suited for this purpose. Additionally, in this article we will consider some of the nuances of repair and proper operation of bicycle cameras, for example, we will talk about what pressure should be in them and much more.

    How can you glue the camera

    Not any glue or patch will work for fixing a puncture on a bicycle wheel. Therefore, it is worth dwelling in more detail on the topic of what you can and what you should not glue the bike’s camera. There are several options, which we will consider below.

    • Specialized repair kits. Many bike parts manufacturers produce so-called bicycle camera repair kits, which are usually a box, a crayon to mark the puncture site, a sander (usually a metal perforated plate or a piece of sandpaper), several patches of different shapes and sizes, and glue. The composition of the glue is specially designed for joint use with the surface of specific patches (with which it enters into a chemical reaction), therefore, using it in conjunction with patches from another manufacturer may not give a result. Fortunately, in most of these repair kits, the amount of glue is clearly calculated for the number of patches.
    • Chinese bicycle camera repair kits. Some riders underestimate the power of the Chinese industry and look at their harnesses with disdain. I can’t talk about everything (I’m sure that some of them are really terrible), but for the last 4 years I have been using exclusively Chinese patches from Red Sun (although this may not be a company, but the name of a repair kit). They are quite common. For several years of use, none of the patches flew off and did not allow air to pass through. And the cost of this product is lower than that of famous brands. The disadvantages include that the set contains only glue and patches, and what is most offensive, patch is immeasurably more than glue. Well, these are little things. In general, I advise everyone.
    • The third option is the most unreliable and therefore should only be used as a last resort. Here we have highlighted homemade patches that can be made from an old bicycle camera. Almost any plastic glue for rubber can be used as an adhesive. But in this case, the reliability of the patch is very low. Here they say so, “at your own peril and risk.” When using homemade patches, you cannot use glue, which, when hardened, can burst in places of bending.
    • Curing. It sounds good, it turns out very reliably (better than using any glue and patches, considering that you vulcanize in a specialized workshop), but in fact it is not worth the money and the hassle. It is quite difficult to do at home (and impossible in the field) and you can easily screw up the camera.
    • If the chamber is wet (after searching for a defect), then wait until it is completely dry. Plus, it must be completely deflated.
    • Using sandpaper or a special perforated iron plate (which is usually found in bicycle kits for repairing cameras), we clean the puncture site until a matte color appears. The sanding area should be 1 cm larger than the diameter of the bicycle patch. After this procedure, we try not to touch this place with our hands or other objects.
    • Remove the protective film from the surface of the patch, which we will glue to the camera.
    • We apply glue. It can be applied only to the patch, only to the camera, or both. This information can be viewed on the glue tube. We also draw attention to the exposure time in air indicated there and the time of complete solidification (the last two points may not be indicated).
    READ  Bicycle Fork Silicone Lubricant

    How to determine the puncture site

    At first glance, a very simple procedure for identifying a puncture site can be significantly complicated depending on where you find a flat tire (at home or while driving). To simplify the search procedure, it should be borne in mind that in 90% of cases it is located on the so-called “contact patch” of the wheel with the road, usually no higher than 2/3 of the camera height. An exception may be damage from the rim (if the rim tape is out of order on the latter) or crawled out iron threads of the tire cord. Therefore, we will consider several options for how to find the hole in the bicycle chamber through which air is released.

    • The easiest way is to lower the camera into the water. It is enough to have an insignificant tank, the depth of which allows it to be immersed at least 2/3 of its height. We rotate the camera until we find air bubbles that will burst out of the water. After we take it out, we find the puncture site and proceed to repair.
    • If there is no water nearby, then fine dust (which can be found on unpaved roads) will come to the rescue. We increase the pressure in the chamber to strengthen the air stream from the hole and bring it a short distance to the dust (without touching it). We rotate the camera and look at the place where the dust begins to scatter.
    • If the weather is calm outside, the puncture can be detected by holding the camera to the wet wrist (inside of it). The skin should be wet to make the search as easy as possible. For this method, it is also desirable to increase the pressure.
    • With a strong puncture in a quiet place, it can be detected by ear.

    Tips on how to avoid punctures

    To reduce the likelihood of unexpected tire and tube damage while riding, there are a few simple rules to follow.

    • Maintain the working pressure in the wheel at the required level. There is no specific figure here, since the nominal working pressure may differ for certain tubes / tires. For example, on mountain bikes the pressure in the chamber should be about 2.5-5 bar, and on road bikes it should be 6-9 bar. The bicycle tire has corresponding minimum and maximum pressure labels. It looks something like this. If the pressure is too low, it greatly increases the risk of puncture. It is worth remembering that when driving in winter or in the autumn-spring period, the temperature outside is lower than in the apartment. Therefore, on cold days, the chamber should be inflated a little more (because when the air temperature in a closed volume decreases, its pressure decreases). Therefore, if you pump up to 3 bar in the summer, then in winter you can increase the pressure by about 1 bar (but not higher than the maximum allowable).
    • Change tires after wear. With the depletion of its resource (erasure of the tread), the probability of a puncture also increases. And if you have a worn out tire, and you began to notice that the wheel began to break through more and more often, you should think about replacing the tire.

    On the bike parts market, you can find two more devices that are designed to simplify life (at least, they position themselves this way) when cycling. This is an anti-puncture tape and sealant, which is poured in a small amount into the chamber and is designed to “tighten” punctures while driving.

    Anti-puncture tape is a strip of soft, rubberized plastic or, in more expensive products, Kevlar, which can be glued or simply inserted between the tire and the bicycle tube and protect against punctures. But there are pitfalls here. A cheap anti-puncture, firstly, does not always protect against punctures, and secondly, it can fall apart inside the tire and grind the camera into dust with its fragments, thereby dooming the latter to ejection. Plus, it’s overweight. In general, after sitting on the forums, I agreed that they are more hated than praised.

    As for the sealant, this is also not so good. As a temporary solution, when you do not want to bother with replacing the camera, of course, you can use it. But the sealant does not seal the puncture completely, but only reduces air leakage. Plus, there were complaints after use, when they wanted to stick a patch on the puncture site.

    In general, according to the editors, it is better to use better quality bicycle tires with built-in puncture protection, carry a spare camera with you and not bother with the above accessories.

    Bicycle camera replacement

    During long trips, it is advisable to carry with you not only a bicycle tool, but also a spare camera, with which you can quickly replace the failed one and go further. After all, this is much faster than waiting for the glue to dry on a freshly glued one. Therefore, in this section we will consider such a question as how to remove a bicycle tire and replace the camera when it is punctured.

    • Remove the wheel from the bike. To do this, we loosen the eccentric (or unscrew the fixing nut on the axis).
    • Wipe the side surfaces of the tire and rim from dirt with a rag.
    • We lay the wheel on its side and make a mark with chalk (or other improvised materials) on the tire opposite the nipple of the camera. If nothing is at hand, then we remember this position, relying on the side inscriptions. After that, the wheel should only remain on this side. This is necessary so that after we take out the camera and find a puncture on it, we can, by attaching it to the tire, find the place where a foreign object pierced the latter. In most cases, a nail or plant needle stays in the tire of the bike, and if not removed, it will pierce the new tube immediately after replacing it.
    • We unscrew the nipple cap of the camera, and, pressing on the nipple, release the air until the edges of the tire “lag behind” the sides of the rim. You can keep the camera down completely.
    • Then, using a special bead blade (mounting), we pry the edge of the tire, and, resting the spatula against the rim wall, pull its side out.

    It is important not to turn it over to the other side until we find the puncture site and find it on the tire (by attaching a camera to it).

  • After that, we remove the bicycle tire completely (you can not do this right away, but try to find the puncture site by touch, but with the tire removed, of course, it is easier). We move its side, which remained between the walls of the rim to the edge and, holding the latter, pull it towards ourselves. After we remove it, we leave the tire in the same position as it was on the rim (to find a foreign object stuck in it).
  • We check the inside of the rim and tires for debris and foreign objects, which should be removed before installing a new camera.
  • Then you should repair the punctured camera, for example, after you come home from a bike ride, or during a halt.