How to adjust the front derailleur
There is also a clear and simple step-by-step guide for adjusting the front derailleur:
- Shift the chain to a smaller star.
- Unscrew the fixing screw and release the cable.
- We find the screw marked “L”, with its help we adjust the position of the frame so that the chain is between the plates of the frame, but at the same time does NOT touch them.
- We stretch the cable, fix it with a screw.
- Now we move the chain in the cassette to a smaller sprocket. it is convenient to do this using the rear derailleur.
- In front of it, with the switch, move the chain to the middle star and look. if the chain on the second one touches the outer side of the frame everywhere, then you need to increase the tension of the cable using the drum located on the left shifter.
- Shift the gear to the largest sprocket in the cassette and check. if the chain touches the frame walls, you need to move the last element so that the chain is in the middle. This manipulation can be done using a screw marked “H”.
Bicycle Rear Derailleur Adjustment
After we have eliminated all 5 possible problems with the rear derailleur, we can proceed to configure it. I took a bike with a shimano rear derailleur and divided the whole setup into 8 steps:
1. On the shifter, fold to the highest speed (which corresponds to the smallest star on the block of led stars). Steep the pedals so that the chain is on the small star. (Now you understand why it is so convenient to work with the rack)
I do NOT show numbers on the shifter, but believe me the position of the indicator is on the “number” 9 Which corresponds to the smallest star on the cassette.
When adjusting the rear derailleur on the sprockets (front) the chain is best positioned where you use it most. This is usually the central star on a 3-star system.
2. Loosens the hex or bolt holding the cable.
3. We twist it all the way, and then return one turn back all the adjusting thumbs of the cable tension, which are located on the switch and on the shifter (sometimes there is only one adjustment screw on bicycles, most often it is on the switch, less often on the shifter).
In my case, the cable tension regulator is located only on the shifter. The photo shows how I spin the lamb.
4. We pull the cable by hand (it is not necessary to pull with all our strength, the main thing is that it does not sag and be stretched along its entire length) and tighten the bolt holding the cable.
5. Align the center of the derailleur roller with the center of the smallest chainring on the bike. Some people remove the chain for stages 5 and 6 to fine tune them. I do not see the need for this, you can not shoot, especially if you have a switch of more than one top level, such as shimano tourney, acera or alivio.
Actually, all this movement of the switch occurs using the adjusting screws with the letters “H” and “L”.
The shift pad position adjusting screws look something like this.
Tighten screw “H” with a screwdriver until the centers of the rollers on the tabs of the derailleur and the small star DO NOT coincide and proceed to the next step.
In the photo, I showed a red line, along which you can see that the switch roller is under a small star on the cassette, which means that the extreme position is set correctly.
6. Shift the shifter to the lowest speed (number 1), which corresponds to the largest driven star. Steep the pedals so that the chain goes to the extreme sprocket. And also align the center of the foot rollers with the center of the largest sprocket. All this alignment takes place with the screw “L”.
On the shifter, the indicator for switching the speed to number 1, if the numbers are in the most extreme position, which should correspond to the largest star on the cassette.
Essentially, the “H” and “L” screws act as end stops for your derailleur, allowing the chain NOT to fly off while driving and keep you alive.
We expose the extreme position of the switch foot so that the switch does not fall into the spokes of the wheel. By aligning the axes of the largest sprocket on the cassette and the wasp of the switch foot.
7. We drop again at the highest speed. Don’t forget to pedal. The chain should be on the smallest star. Next, switch to one speed and steep pedals, if the chain DOES NOT jump or does NOT jump right away, then you need to unscrew the adjusting screw a little, which adjusts the tension of the cable (it turns out we are pulling the cable).
Then again we check and switch from the highest speed one step lower (if an 8-speed cassette, then from 8 to 7 speed), if the switch happened immediately, congratulations you set the switch! You can check the remaining speeds will also easily and clearly switch both up and down.!
The chain should jump to the adjacent speed. In my case, this is a 9 speed cassette. Switching from 9 to 8.
8. Adjust the distance from the largest star to the derailleur roller. This distance should be about 4 mm, if the distance is greater, the switching clarity will be reduced. The adjustment screw on the switch is responsible for adjusting this gap. By unscrewing the screw, the distance decreases, screwing it in increases. The tuning is done on the largest star corresponding to the number 1 in your shifter.
Reasons for the deterioration of the rear derailleur:
1. Lack of maintenance. Most often, when buying a bicycle, the derailleur works well and flawlessly, but after the season of operation, you can replace the deterioration in performance or even the chain jumping off the extreme sprockets. In 70% of cases, setting the rear derailleur helps, but sometimes this does not help either, then the cable and shirt should be replaced, as they become clogged with dirt and interfere with the smooth running of the cable in the shirt. Usually bike maintenance is done once a year, in which the switch settings are enabled.
Sometimes, to save money, grease the cable with grease or any other grease and it turns out to improve the work for a while, but later the grease attracts dust to itself and the work deteriorates again, so you will have to do this procedure more often than you would like.
2. Wear of the switch itself. Everything ever breaks down and the bike derailleur is no exception. Most often, the parallelogram axes of the switch wear out, due to which a small backlash is formed, which does not allow the switching to be set correctly.
3. Worn derailleur sprockets. Over time, plastic sprockets wear out due to which the chain no longer holds on to them, which leads to poor operation of the derailleur. Also, the sprocket wasps can wear out and the sprocket will dangle unnecessarily on the axle, which leads to poor shifting.
4. Curve cock or the switch itself. When you fall or hit something with a switch, the cock is most likely to bend (break), since it is made specially from a weaker alloy than the switch itself (to keep the more expensive spare part intact). The curvature does not allow the chains to rise straight, which reduces the efforts to adjust the transfer to zero. Read how to straighten a cock with your hands.
5. Problems with the cable. Sometimes, during installation or when dropped, the cable may bend strongly, after which the place of the bend will prevent the smooth movement of the cable in the shirt. In this case, its replacement is required.
It also happens that the cable gets loose (that’s why you should use the ends of the cables) and later one of the thin threads begins to separate from the main bundle, as a result, prevents the normal movement of the cable in the shirt. Sometimes one thread in the cable can break and also prevent it from working normally, here you can isolate it from the main bundle along the entire length of the cable. But the best option would be to replace the cable with a new one.
If a new cable was installed, sometimes after a certain number of kilometers (about 100 km.) You may notice a deterioration in shifting. this is due to the cable stretching a little. In this case, you will need to tighten the cable tension bolt a little.
Important! If at least one of the 5 problems you have, it will NOT be possible to adjust the switch perfectly!
You will need a hex wrench and a screwdriver. The chain is thrown over the largest sprockets in the front. At the back we put the chain on the smallest star. This is done using the speed switch, even if the settings are knocked down.
The cable on the switch is fixed with a screw, which must be loosened as much as possible. There is a “drum” on the coins. It needs to be tightened all the way. And then turn it back a few turns. Rotation pulls or lowers the cable. Thus, the micro-adjustments of the switch are made. But now we are not adjusting anything, but creating the necessary range for future settings.
Find the screw H on the switch. It must be signed. By turning this screw, the position of the tensioner rollers of the switch is adjusted to the small sprocket.
Your task is to match the tensioner pulley clearly opposite the small sprocket.
Now tighten the cable and fix the screw. You don’t need to pull very hard. It is necessary that the cable is simply straightened and resilient. But it’s better to fix it as it should.
Now I throw the chain onto the largest star in the back. While the gears may be shifting incorrectly, because the settings are NOT completely finished. Don’t be scared.
At the front, the chain should be on the smallest star. And the sequence of actions is repeated. Only this time, you need to adjust the position of the tensioner rollers for the large sprocket with the screw L. Its movement may be less noticeable, so be careful.
Now check the quality of the settings. Maybe indistinctness. To fix it, you need to make a few Clicks with the drum. Now let’s check again the same positions where the fuzziness was.
And you also need to check the bike on the go. And to correct the fuzziness by clicking the drum. Practice will help you.
How to fix defects
The rooster is the bracket on which the switch is attached. This is a known weak link, because when the switch hits the ground, it is this component that will be damaged, and the frame will remain intact, which is much more important.
By the way, there are switches, which are attached to the bushings here. The mechanical strength of the system is higher, but this only applies to extreme equipment.
Titanium frames are made with non-removable roosters, as the material itself is strong. Interestingly, in English it sounds like Derailleur hangar. We also have the name rooster because of the scallop at the end.
Detachable rods are mounted on carbon fiber and aluminum frames. This component is cast from an aluminum alloy with a large g. Carbon. Small strength.
If the cock is bent, it is better NOT to straighten it. It will crack anyway.
The geometry of the roosters is different. Please be careful before purchasing. On cycling trips, participants take extra roosters with them. And usually a friend is enough for two bicycles. They don’t break very often.
By the way, if the rooster still broke, but you want to ride, then you can make a single speed:
- For this we take the pomace.
- We press out one of the pins. It doesn’t have to be a connector pin. He is thicker than the others. You must press out the pin in such a way that it does not fall out, but remains in the link. It is best to unwind until the end and check how much the pin came out.
- Now shorten the chain to the correct size. It is better to move the rear wheel forward in advance. By measuring, we squeeze out the excess links completely. By the way, the old chain is replaced with a new one in the same way.
- We install the chain in the squeeze with the back side. We press until the pin does NOT click. You can skip this click. Be careful, otherwise the pin will go further than necessary.
- It is much more convenient to use a connecting pin, the long rod of which is fixed in the links, and the excess is removed with pliers.
- Now we move the wheel, so the chain will stretch a little.
Setting up your bike derailleurs is easy. You do not need to have special skills and knowledge for this. Follow the instructions and you will succeed!
How to properly adjust the rear derailleur
To independently adjust the rear derailleur on a bicycle, you just need to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions from experts in this process. So, complete all the steps:
- Move the chain to the small sprocket with the right shifter.
- Unscrew the fixing screw and release the cable.
- Find the screw that has the “H” mark on it. Using a screwdriver, you need to adjust this screw so that the smallest star lies in the same plane with the rollers, which are located in quotes (frame).
- Pull the cable by hand and fix it with the screw.
- Check the operation of the switch, and if it does not work correctly, the chain does not switch well to large stars, then you need to tighten the cable more (either with the help of a drum or with a switch).
- Move the chain to the largest sprocket available in the cassette.
- Find the screw marked “L” and adjust it so that the foot (frame) and the star are in the same plane. in this case, it will not be possible to get into the spokes of the front wheel.
Bicycle front derailleur
The transition to the setting of this mechanism is possible only when the rear derailleur is set. This feature is important to take into account before starting work. Figure 2 shows the switch (round, black).
Leave the chain on the middle sprocket of the front block and place it on the large sprocket in the rear block. If chain friction is observed, reactivate adjuster L. To adjust stop H, the chain moves to the largest sprocket at the front and smallest at the rear. The adjuster will help to position the chain in the optimal position without friction and excessive chain tension. At the end of the work, be sure to check the quality of its implementation.
Possible errors when setting the rear derailleur
Question: What if I unscrewed the adjusting screw to the end, and the chain still does not switch to 1 speed lower?
Answer: Most likely you pulled the cable poorly by hand from step 4, or you did it with Insufficiently tightened cable tension adjusting screws from step 3, and it is also possible that you did not tighten the cable at the highest speed on the shifter Described in step 1.
Question: I reached stage 7, but the chain was not in the smallest star why?
Answer: You may have pulled the cable too tight with your hands in step 4, in which case try to loosen the cable tension slightly with the adjusting screw. If the chain still does not go to the extreme small star, repeat steps 1 to 4.
How to properly adjust the rear and front derailleurs on a bicycle photo and description of the process
Despite the fact that the bicycle was invented a long time ago and, it would seem, should have been out of date for a long time, but this two-wheeled vehicle is gaining more and more popularity every year. Cycling enthusiasts prefer this type of transport due to its convenience, ease of operation, environmental safety and practicality. Not only ordinary bicycles are very popular, but also mountain, track VELOBIKE, in which modern innovative technologies are involved. In order for the owners to enjoy cycling, they need to be looked after and the condition of all parts and assemblies should be monitored. If in the process of cycling, you hear extraneous sounds, creaking, knocking and twitching during gear shifting, it’s time to pay attention to such a detail as the gear selector.
Let’s immediately highlight the most common errors and problems:
- Too heavy gear is a common mistake. Many newbies even say that 44 (or even 48) stars in front are NOT enough for them. It’s a delusion. Constantly spinning a heavy gear you just kill your knees. Try to keep track of your cadence (cadence) until It comes to automaticity. You can even count the number of revolutions per minute for fun. If about 90-100, then this is very good. And so, gears 44-11 are enough to accelerate across the plain to
60 km / h. So try to convince those who say that 44 stars are not enough for the city. By doing this, you may help keep people healthy.
1500 km). As a result, when the load on the pedals increases, the chain slips and the pedals fail unpleasantly. This needs to be taken into account and the trains are more careful until Everything gets used to it. Even for a fairly strong running cassette, the rubbing period is about 200 kilometers.
If you are new to the saddle, pay a lot of attention to pedaling, gear shifting, try to work both in front of it and the rear derailleur. Try to choose a gear depending on the maneuver being made. For example: you are a brake, but for this you will need to accelerate. Shift the gear lighter even when braking, then it will accelerate faster.
The clarity of gear shifting is highly dependent on the technical condition of the bike components. Monitor and, if necessary, replace the cables and shirts in time, the rear derailleur rollers, the switches themselves, the drive elements. the chain, cassette, front sprockets.
I strongly recommend that you adjust the rear derailleur before you start setting / adjusting the front derailleur so that everything works correctly for you. This manual will fit all brands and models of front derailleurs: Shimano, Sram, Microshift, Campagnolo and second.
- Prerequisites for Switch Setting
- Unscrew the bolt
- Checking the position of the switch frame
- Working with cable and shifter
- We expose the extreme position of the frame
- Checking the switching clarity
- Differences in setting the road derailleur from MTB
We expose the extreme position of the frame using a bolt “L”
To adjust the extreme position of the bolt “L”, you must switch to the largest star on the rear derailleur (corresponds to the first speed on the shifter). Next, we begin to twist the bolt “L” until there is a gap of about 1 mm between the chain (which is located on the smallest star of the system) and the switch frame (the smaller the better, the main thing is that the chain does NOT rub against the switch frame).
We expose the extreme position of the frame using a bolt “H”
When setting the extreme position “H”, we need to switch to the smallest star on the cassette, which corresponds to the largest number on the right shifter from 6 to 11, depending on how many speeds you have there. We put the chain on the third star (the largest star on the system) and the steep screw “H”. We adjust the frame so that the chain does NOT fly onto the connecting rod with a pedal of a clearance of 1 mm will be quite enough.
5. Checking the clarity of gear shifting.
Try to change gears and see if the chain goes to all stars.
Most often, the chain does not go from the second star to the first and clings to the switch frame. This is solved by unscrewing the “L” bolt (so that the switch frame moves towards the frame) one or two turns and everything should work perfectly.
What to do if your bike’s derailleur is broken
There is a special science in shifting gears on a bicycle; at first glance, everything is simple. Two levers on the left, two on the right, or even just a flu-shift. what could be easier. But nevertheless, observing the Beginner cyclists, one may notice Not quite correct and coordinated actions. But consistency when cycling is the most important thing! Only in this way will you be able to move around on a bike as efficiently as possible, make maneuvers, and overcome obstacles.
As an example, we will consider the most ordinary mountain bike (MTB) with three stars in front and 8-9 in the back.
- Let’s immediately highlight the most common errors and problems:
- Before starting the front derailleur adjustment
- We expose the extreme position of the frame using a bolt “L”
- Set the center position of the front derailleur frame
- We expose the extreme position of the frame using a bolt “H”
- Differences in setting the road derailleur from MTB
- Conveyor device and reasons for its functional failures
- Shimano Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur Adjustment Screws: Technical Minimum
- Technique: how to properly adjust the rear derailleur on a bicycle Shimano?
- Preparatory process
- How to adjust the high gear limiter?
- How to adjust the low gear limiter?
- How to adjust the cable tension?
- Chain tensioner adjustment
- Possible nuances
Before starting the front derailleur adjustment
Before you start adjusting the front derailleur, make sure you have the following conditions:
1. We start by unscrewing (loosening) the bolt, which holds the front derailleur cable.
2. Next, I recommend checking the position of the switch frame for the star system.
A. Check the swing angle. The switch frame must be parallel to the stars of the system.
B. Check the height. The front derailleur frame should be slightly higher by 1-3mm. Than the biggest star of the system. To adjust, move the frame by hand so that it is above the 3rd star and adjust the height.
3. Now let’s start working with the cable and shifter on the handlebars.
A. Find the cable tension bolt on the shifter and screw it all the way into the shifter and half a turn.
B. Pull the cable by hand or use pliers and Tighten it with the fixing bolt, in which I wrote in paragraph 1. Note that there are special grooves on the washers holding the cable. It is necessary to fix the cable in them.
4. We begin to set the extreme positions of the switch frame with bolts “H” and “L”.
“Low”. adjusts the extreme position of the switch on the smallest star.
Set the center position of the front derailleur frame
It is necessary to transfer the chain to the central stars of the cassette using the rear derailleur. Switching from the first to the second speed (the chain should initially be on the 1st star), if it does not switch, then it is necessary to tighten the cable with the tension adjuster (see point 3.A), which is located on the shifter. Steep until the chain is clear and fast to the middle star.
Differences in setting the road derailleur from MTB
Differences in front derailleur settings on mountain bikes and road commentary. The only thing is that on a road bike, the star system does not use 3 stars, but two, which makes the setup faster.
If you have a dual system. You will also need to complete all the points, and in the fourth step there will be no adjustment of the central position, and the tension of the cable will be adjusted when switching to the 2nd star, where there will be an adjustment of the extreme position with a screw “H”.
Conveyor device and reasons for its functional failures
Before adjusting the rear derailleur on a bicycle, it is useful to find out the reasons for the malfunctioning of the mechanism. The essence of the problem lies in the following points:
- Cable damage or lack of lubricant.
- Violation of the integrity of the cable jacket.
- Curved cock. fastening the mechanism to the frame of the bike.
- Chain or cassette wear from sprocket.
- Jammed chain tensioner rollers.
- Steering wheel shift shifter problems.
Shimano Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur Adjustment Screws: Technical Minimum
Despite the abundance of parallelogram-type spreaders from a Japanese manufacturer, their design and principle of operation are similar. In the process of adjusting the device, five elements are involved:
- 1. fastening the cable in the form of an embedded bolt with a nut.
- 2. screw for tensioning the cable with a drum.
- 3. screw for adjusting the chain tension.
- L. limit screw for adjusting low gears.
- H. limit screw for high gear adjustments.
Special screws L and H, which are used to adjust the rear derailleur of a bike with Shimano Alivio, physically restrict the movement of the mechanism, which prevents the chain from jumping off. In practice, they are used mainly only when debugging a new transfer device, Subsequently, the procedure is not needed.
In the event that the cock or the mechanism itself is bent, adjusting the limit screws can solve the problem for a short time. Their sensitivity is not very high, so 1-2 turns at a time are quite justified.
Method: how to properly set up the rear derailleur of Shimano on a bicycle?
The procedure for repairing and debugging the chain drive units must be carried out on a clean bicycle. Be sure to raise the rear wheel, for which they hang the frame on a hook or prepare a special stand.
As mentioned above, a thorough cleaning precedes a competent setting. Sometimes even such a procedure can have a beneficial effect on the performance of devices. Technological aspects of the preparatory work are as follows:
- Clean derailleur and sprocket cassette.
- Clean old grease from tensioner rollers.
- Wash and lubricate the chain.
Next, you need to free the hummock, for which the tension screws in the shifters and on the rear spreader are screwed in until they stop. The cable should be pulled out of the clamping screw, but it is not necessary to remove it. DO NOT interfere with inspecting it for damage and lubricating it if necessary.
How to adjust the high gear limiter?
For alignment, the chain is set to high gear with the smallest sprocket at the back and the largest sprocket at the front. For those who are interested in how to adjust the rear derailleur on a mountain bike, it is important to remember that the essence of the adjustment is to align the rear small chainring with the tensioner rollers. This task is accomplished by rotating the adjusting screw H:
- Clockwise. the frame is deflected towards the large asterisk;
- Counterclockwise. the frame moves to the outside.
How to adjust the low gear limiter?
The function of the L limit screw is to prevent the chain from overshooting the large sprocket. Improper alignment can lead to chain seizure between the sprocket and spokes or the inability to engage low gear.
Before the adjustment procedure, you need to install the chain so that it is on the back on the large sprocket, and in the front on the small one. Screw L is unscrewed as much as possible so that the switch moves without restrictions. The purpose of the set-up is to align the tensioner rollers and large chainring in the same plane. The task is performed by rotating the screw L:
- Clockwise. the spreader assembly shifts towards the small sprocket;
- Counterclockwise. the node moves towards the wheel.
How to adjust the cable tension?
The technological process is simple. it is enough to debug the transition between two neighboring stars, the index gear change system is designed so that the shift will be adjusted on all the stars of the cassette:
- Pull the cable by hand and fix it with the fastening bolt;
- The final adjustment is carried out by rotating the hollow screw with a drum (position 2 in the figure), the chain should easily move from one sprocket to another and back again with one press of the shifter.
Once you have finished adjusting your Shimano rear derailleur on a mountain bike, tighten and secure the cable securely. It is important that it rests in the guide groove. If the work is done correctly, then when the pedals are rotated, the chain runs silently and does NOT jump to the side.
Adjusting the chain tensioner
The tensioner is a spreader assembly that provides optimum chain drive rigidity. Excessive tension Not only makes the chain difficult to move, but also wears out the gearshift system. The weakened state prevents a clear transition.
The tensioner assembly is debugged as follows:
- Place the chain at the rear on the largest sprocket and at the front on the smallest sprocket.
- If, when the chain is moving, the tensioner roller touches the cassette, then you need to tighten the tension screw (position 3 in the figure) so that the gap between them is about 5 mm.
- Install the chain at the back on the smallest sprocket, and at the front on the largest sprocket, and repeat the operation described in point 2.
Sometimes striking results are obtained by the usual washing and lubrication of the cables and their jackets. Practice shows that after this operation it becomes much easier to make transitions. If you find a torn cable with a part of unbraided wires, it should be replaced immediately. The same situation with the shirt, in which damage is observed.
Unexpected failures when shifting gears can be caused by two reasons:
- Pulled out the cable from the fixing bolt of the mechanism.
- There is a plug on one end of the shirt.
Before adjusting the rear derailleur on a mountain bike, you need to check the condition of the cock. It may bend from a fall or when driving on uneven surfaces. It is absolutely impossible to straighten the part directly on the bicycle, because the frame of the assembly is fragile, it is better to dismantle the bent cock and align it on a metal plate.
You should also pay attention to the degree of wear of the chain drive, which occurs due to long drives in non-standard gear combinations. Chain tensioner rollers need periodic maintenance. they need to be cleaned and lubricated at least once a year.