How to Fix a Speed ​​Bike Wheel

Bicycle rear sprocket

A bicycle is a means of transportation, driven by the physical strength of a person. This is how you can describe the essence in technical words. In fact, he is a friend from childhood. As soon as we start growing up and understand something, we drag our parents to the place where we can choose a bike and shout: “Buy it !!” and that it might break. Even an old bike can still serve.

The most common question about servicing the bike and the rear hub (excluding the device, ratchet and sprockets) is “How to remove the sprocket from the rear wheel of a speed bike?”

It often happens that the hub requires lubrication or the rear wheel sprockets need to be replaced. The repair process is easier if the cassette is removed. Thus, things will go faster and more accurately.

When you need to replace your rear bicycle sprocket

An inexperienced user may confuse a sprocket and a ratchet, but the difference is that the cassette stars have a minimum diameter of 11T, while the ratchet has a minimum diameter of 14T. To replace the rear chainrings of the bike, you must remove the entire cassette completely.

The ratchet of the rear wheel of the bicycle has several driven stars, which are connected by a freewheel hub. The ratchet is considered not a very durable and reliable component; axle breakages often occur due to imperfect design. The ratchet can be removed for repairs in the same way as the cassette.

The efficiency and functionality of the bike depends on the rear wheel hub. The part has several components. If the stroke is heavy, then there is probably a problem and the cone is damaged. To eliminate faults, unscrew the nuts with a wrench and remove the wheel.

When regularly inspecting the technical condition of the transport, pay attention to the bushing cone, clean and lubricate parts and bearings. This detail is very important, it organizes the transmission of the transmission to the wheel from the pedals, as well as several other important tasks.

How to remove the rear sprocket?

Of the tools you need:

  • puller;
  • whip;
  • key of the right size.

First of all, remove the wheel. Turn the bike upside down with the wheels and unscrew the nut on the axle with a wrench. In some cases, for example, a sports bike or mountain bike, an eccentric clamp is needed. Simple models do not require a special approach and tool.

The rear sprockets are attached to the ratchet with a special nut (slotted). This very nut must be unscrewed with a puller and a wrench. The latter must be appropriate in size. Unscrew the nut clockwise and use the whip. Requires a puller to be inserted into the spline nut in the rear sprocket of the bike.

We carefully put the whip on a large diameter sprocket. Holding the cassette, turn the puller with the key. This requires some effort. After unscrewing the nut, remove the cassette. The rear sprockets of the bike can be independently positioned on the ratchet. It is required to remove all parts, small sprockets, washers, carefully and carefully. This is to avoid confusion of elements. Then the cassette and plastic ring are removed. After completing the replacement of worn parts, all components, including the sprockets, are assembled in order.

The nut is tightened with a wrench and with the application of maximum efforts, but the main thing is not to overdo it and tighten the bushing cone not too much.

Sleeve

Disassembly and diagnostics of this part is carried out after separation of the cassette. It is best to start the process on the left side. Next, the boot, locknut and cone are removed. Then you can find washers, the number of which depends on the type of bike.

By the way, we recommend:

It is very important to remember exactly the location and order of finding all the parts. Now the stage begins in which the cone is carefully unwound. If the grease is in poor condition, it is necessary to remove the bearings and inspect them. The presence of rust, dirt and other troubles indicates the replacement of parts.

With this option, good parts must be put in place before lubrication. With a careful approach to work, the bike will function properly and accurately. Removing the bushing and other parts is not difficult, but it is important to remember the order of their location.

How to remove a ratchet from a bicycle wheel?

In order to adjust the bearings on the rear hub, in order to replace a worn sprocket, and sometimes to replace a broken spokes in the rear wheel, it is necessary to remove the cassette with sprockets. This is not so difficult to do. By and large, the algorithm of actions is the same as with a separate asterisk.

We remove the asterisk ourselves

Turn the bike over and place it on the handlebar and saddle.

First of all, remove the wheel by unscrewing the fastening nuts.

Children’s bicycles are usually repaired, as a rule, by dads, and they have enough strength to fix the largest sprocket with a whip and put a wrench on the puller to unscrew the spline nut. Everything is unscrewed towards the idle wheel and at the same time a small crunching sound is heard, do not be alarmed, this is due to the shape of a small asterisk.

Unscrewing the nut, remove the cassette, taking into account that there may be intermediate washers between the small sprockets, instead of gaskets. To replace the sprocket you need a set of tools.

When disassembling this entire structure, carefully fold all the parts so that they lie in the sequence in which you removed them, otherwise difficulties will arise during assembly.

After removing all the sprockets and the cassette, the protective plastic ring is removed last. Inspect all removed parts carefully, replace worn ones, clean and lubricate so that after assembly the assembly runs for a long time.

The sprocket cassette is assembled in the reverse order. The chain is put on, the rear wheel is spun, the device turns over and it is again ready to surf the roads bringing joy and pleasure from the movement.

Varieties of bicycle cassettes

A set of rear sprockets on a bicycle is called a cassette. Cassettes are available in 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 speeds. The cassette with 6 speeds is placed on children’s bicycles, 7 speed, on budget, walking bicycles. Cassette with 8 sprockets, matches the 24 speed transmissions found on mid-range bikes, 9-12 speeds on mountain and racing, sports bikes.

The large number of stars allows you to adjust the gear ratio for more comfortable pedaling, the smaller the chainring, the greater the rider’s speed. If the switch is set to a large star, then you can easily climb the hill.

A set of 6-7 sprockets is in the form of a ratchet, which is screwed onto the bushing and cassettes, which is put on the bushing drum and fixed with a nut. I change the cassette when obvious tooth wear is visible and the chain slips.

The text was prepared by Roman Borisov. Published: May 30, 2020. Sources: uznayvse.ru, yvelo.ru, mighty-sport.ru. Categories: Microrecords, Repair and maintenance.

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How to change the rear wheel on a speed bike

Carrying out a spring revision of my old high-speed bike, we found an “eight” on the rear wheel. a change in its geometry. The rim was bent so much that it constantly touched the brake pads, making it impossible to drive safely.

First we decided to tighten the knitting needles. There are special ways to do this at home. For those who are interested, it is enough to search the Internet on how to fix the G8. A closer inspection revealed that a pair of spokes was missing. The plastic spoke guard installed on the wheel makes it difficult to install new ones, so it must be completely disassembled.

Turn the bike upside down, unscrew the eccentric clamp nut, remove the eccentric itself from the hole in the axle, release the footrest, remove the chain and wheel. In this case, you need to loosen the brake pads and release air from the wheel so that the tire does not cling to them.

Unscrew the nipple, pull out one side of the tire, gently prying it with a flat screwdriver, without tearing the camera. Take out the camera, then remove the tire.

Now you need to remove the asterisk. This cannot be done without a special puller, so we took care of its purchase in advance.

Inserts the puller inside the sprocket and unscrew it with a gas wrench. By the way, for these purposes, any key for 24.

Our speed bike had a single rim wheel. Almost all modern bikes are equipped with double rim wheels. They are believed to be stronger and more reliable. The difference in price is not very big, so we listened to the seller and bought a copy with a double rim.

At first, the plan for replacing the rear wheel on a speed bike seemed simple: screw the sprocket onto a new one, insert the tube, insert the tire, and mount it on the bike. But upon closer inspection, it turned out that the wheel axles are different. The old one. with a hole inside for the eccentric, and the new one. without it.

Therefore, I had to rearrange the axle from the old wheel to the new one. This requires 2 keys. We hold the locknut with one, and unscrew the other with the other. Having unscrewed, remove the washer and unscrew the locknut, which is the bearing boot. While loosening the nut, watch out for balls that may fall out of the gap formed. Now you can remove the axle.

Remove the axle from the new wheel in the same way. The lubricant in it is fresh, thick, so the bearing balls, sticking to it, were in their place.

Carefully, adding fresh grease, insert the axle with a hole for the eccentric onto the new wheel and tighten the nuts in the reverse order.

It is necessary to tighten the nuts with a cone for the bearing until there is no play in the carriage, but at the same time the wheel rotates freely. On both sides of the axle along the edges we leave a space equal to 1 cm so that it fits into the eyes of the rear fork of the bicycle. This distance is regulated by a bushing washer. By tightening the second nut, we fix the first with a key so that it does not move, otherwise the wheel will spin with effort.

Then we collect everything in the reverse order. Install the spoke protection, use a puller to twist the asterisk.

On the one hand we fill the tire, insert the camera, fill the tire completely. We pump the chamber with a pump, then we bleed the air so that it fits into place.

Now we take the wheel, put the chain on the sprocket and install the axle in the fork eyes. The tire, having pressed on it, must be pushed between the brake pads.

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Install the footrest, insert the eccentric clip and secure it with a nut.

Let’s adjust the brakes by fixing the pads near the rim. We pump up the camera and make a test drive. This completes the replacement of the rear wheel of the sports bike. If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bike maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

Experienced cyclists welcome self-repair of wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you can acquire skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This also includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and removed, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two keys.

Usually, one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. Open-end or box wrenches are recommended. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you will need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten very carefully so as not to damage the rim, do not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bicycle, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. The rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it is time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the hub bearings, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The reverse gear is removed with a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is not a long matter, but you will have to make a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

  • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
  • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
  • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
  • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, loosen the spoke tension slightly. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the needles. You need to loosen up a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, then the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:

  • main stars;
  • single stars, small stars;
  • whip tightening the cassette mechanism.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bike maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.

Experienced cyclists welcome self-repair of wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you can acquire skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.

When to remove the rear wheel

It is unlikely that the idea of ​​unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:

  • noticeable damage to the rim;
  • complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
  • a flat tire or a burst tire;
  • bulkhead bushing.

This also includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.

Usually, one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. Open-end or box wrenches are recommended. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you will need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and removed, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.

I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two keys.

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Usually, one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. Open-end or box wrenches are recommended. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you will need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten very carefully so as not to damage the rim, do not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bicycle, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. The rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing

A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it is time to remove it and inspect the hub.

The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the hub bearings, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.

The reverse gear is removed with a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is not a long matter, but you will have to make a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:

  • The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
  • The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
  • With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
  • We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.

Before disassembling the hub, loosen the spoke tension slightly. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the needles. You need to loosen up a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, then the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.

A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.

Speed ​​bike rear hub diagram

The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:

  • main stars;
  • single stars, small stars;
  • whip tightening the cassette mechanism.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

How the bike works

A two-wheeled bicycle is a comfortable, practical and useful vehicle that has firmly established itself in the city and in the countryside. In addition to its direct use, velik is widely used in various sports. The overall design is identical when compared to a simple city bike, road bike, or XC. The simple design of a bicycle, however, is not limited to the description of “wheels, handlebars, saddle, pedals” and includes a number of subtleties. In this article, we will dwell on the components of the bike and explain the purpose of each of them.

What holds the bike

The structure of a bicycle is similar to that of a car: there is a supporting structure on which all working units are attached. For a passenger car, this is a body, and for a bicycle, a frame. The type of frame largely determines the purpose, and its quality is responsible for the life of the bike.

The bike frame is represented by a diamond-shaped frame, welded from the elements:

  • main front tubes. top and bottom (closed), curved front tube (open);
  • seat tube;
  • top feathers;
  • chainstays.

The front tubes are “stitched” together into the head tube, the down tube and seatstays from the seatpost. into the bottom bracket, and the feathers between themselves. into the rear wheel dropouts. Front tubes and stays are welded to the top of the seat tube on both sides.

In relation to the seat tube, the front and rear are represented by two unequal triangles, the dimensions and geometry of which depend on the type and purpose of the bike. For the modern assortment, there are a large number of frame options, but they are all divided into classes:

  • urban. tough, durable and heavy;
  • mountain. resistant to loads, mobile, durable;
  • road. light;
  • sports. resistant to high loads, durable, shock-resistant;
  • stunt. used for BMX bikes.

Bicycles are divided into full-size and foldable. The first ones do not have a folding mechanism, and they must be disassembled for transportation in the metro, public transport and the trunk of a car. Folding ones have at least one joint along which the frame is folded. They are more convenient in transportation and storage, but inferior to full-size ones in running performance.

The material of the supporting frame has a great influence on the operation of the bicycle. Modern bicycles are available on steel, aluminum and carbon frames.

Steel is used on city bikes. The material has high strength and shock resistance, and its disadvantages are heaviness and low flexibility, which is why the frame does not smooth out shocks well. All this does not have the best effect on the dynamics of the bike.

Aluminum is lightweight, durable and flexible. Compared to steel counterparts, frames from it have better maneuverability and passive damping. Lightness and strength improve dynamics and do not create significant resistance to movement. Of course, their cost will be higher.

The most expensive frames are carbon fiber. carbon. This material is used on high-end road, mountain and sport bikes. Among the advantages compared to metal competitors are durability, strength, shock resistance and lightness. Plus, carbon-based bikes have better maneuverability compared to aluminum.

What the wheels are made of

Bicycle wheels are strong and lightweight structures that provide movement and, through rotation, keep the frame in an upright position. Traditionally, the bike is rear-wheel drive, that is, the rear wheel is pushing, and the front wheel is driven and is responsible for steering.

The picture shows what a classic bicycle wheel is made of. The device is simple and has hardly changed since its inception.

Bushing. central part, consists of axle, bearings and washers. The main purpose is to set and hold torque. Transmission sprockets are attached to the rear bushings. The internal structure is more complicated than that of the front ones, since the bushing is involved directly in the spinning of the wheel. On the road models, the brakes are also integrated into the rear hubs. Planetary rear hubs have hidden gearshift mechanism.

The rim is a circular ring that attaches to the hub through the spokes. The rim geometry, combined with the spoke tension, determines the wheel’s resistance to damage and dynamic stress. Bicycle wheel rims are made of aluminum, the spokes are made of light alloys with chrome plating. Traditionally, knobs that adjust the spoke tension are located at the rims, but there are also “flips” that are adjusted on the hub.

Tires consist of a tube and a tire. The chamber is a hollow rubber product that is pumped with air to the required pressure. It is connected to the “outside world” by a nipple, through which air is pumped into the tire. It’s also a good idea to find out what cycling nipples are and how they differ. A rubber flipper is placed over the inside of the rim to protect the chamber from the spokes.

speed, bike, wheel

The tire is the outer part of the tire and consists of beads, sidewalls and the contact part. the tread. Depending on the purpose of the bike, different types of tires are installed:

  • slicks, half slick. for road bikes, for smooth roads;
  • road. tires with medium tread pattern;
  • aggressive. tires with a pronounced pattern, for mountain bikes;
  • hybrid: can be used both on flat surfaces and off-road (but inferior in cross-country ability to aggressive ones).

The visibility of the wheel in the dark in the rays of light is given by a reflector. an orange insert on the spokes. In connection with the requirements for traffic safety, the wheels of all bicycles are equipped with reflectors.

Control system and depreciation

The main element of the bicycle device is the steering unit. It includes several components:

  • fork;
  • steering column;
  • takeaway;
  • steering part.
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The bike fork serves as a connecting point for the handlebar and front wheel. It is installed in the front glass of the frame with a rod. The steering wheel is inserted directly into the fork, and the wheel is fixed on the ears of the legs. dropouts.

In order for the fork to rotate freely when turning, a steering column is installed inside the glass. It consists of upper and lower cups, bearings and retaining rings. Cups can be pressed or screwed onto the internal thread of the glass (on expensive professional models). Bearings are divided into closed industrial and bulk ball bearings. The rings are put on the fork rod, which is fixed in the steering column.

The handlebar of a bicycle consists of a horizontal curved tube and a vertical rod. The rudders are divided into:

  • straight (for MTB and hybrids);
  • curved upward (road);
  • curved downward;
  • rams (for road bikes).

The vertical stem of the steering wheel has a wedge at the end, which fixes the pipe in the fork when tightening the nut.

The stem is a part that determines the distance of the rudder from the frame and is attached to the adjusting tube. Rigid and adjustable stems are installed on different models. Simple road-type bicycles are not equipped with a stem. The distance of the steering wheel affects the fit: the further it is, the more the cyclist takes a horizontal position.

The saddle is secured to the center tube of the frame by a seat post. The height adjustment allows you to find the optimal fit. Saddle widths differ depending on the type of bike: on road models they are wider than on MTB and road models. Saddles can vary in shape and length. They are spring-loaded from below or equipped with dampers.

Damping is the ability to damp vibrations and cushion shock loads. Traditionally, the suspension system is located in the front fork, and these bikes are called hardtails.

The damping consists of a spring and a damper. Depending on the components used, forks are divided into several types (spring / damper):

  • spring (without damper);
  • spring-elastomeric;
  • spring oil;
  • air-oil.

Adjustment of fork parameters: stroke length (Preload), rebound speed (Rebound) and lock. Forks without shock absorption are called rigid and are used on road and on-road models.

In addition to standard cushioning, mountain bikes are fitted with a rear shock absorber that dampens frame vibrations. Bicycles with two shocks are called bikes.

Drivetrain and bicycle brakes

The drivetrain is something a bike won’t run without. A fairly complex unit, it includes most of the mechanisms:

  • carriage;
  • leading stars;
  • connecting rods and pedals;
  • chain;
  • rear stars;
  • speed switches and coins.

The carriage assembly is located in the lower frame glass and serves as a connecting unit for the connecting rod pair and chainrings. The carriage provides free rotation without twisting due to fixed bearings and a through axis on them. It is divided into two types: with open bearings and cartridge, where the entire mechanism is hidden inside the case.

Connecting rods. parts for connecting the carriage to the pedals. They can have two mounting options: slotted and square. Two-piece, or twin, connecting rods come with a chainring (stars on high-speed models) attached to the right connecting rod.

Pedals are leg supports through which forces are transmitted to the cranks, carriage and chainrings. Depending on the scope of application, several types are distinguished:

  • classic, or platforms. put on entry-level bicycles, you can use any shoes, engaging on the pedals due to friction;
  • contact. with special inserts, designed only for cycling shoes, improved grip of surfaces;
  • extreme. for a sports bike, wide surface, thickness, fixing inserts;
  • pedals with straps;
  • pedal mini.

The speed bike rear transmission chainrings are attached to the rear wheel hub. There are 2-3 rear stars per one chainring. Small stars are responsible for high gears, and large stars are responsible for low gears.

The connecting link between the front and rear sprockets is a chain: the Gall block model is used on the bike. Chain transfer is carried out using switches that are controlled by shifters on the handlebars. Shifters are divided into two types. drum and lever. Driving cables connect them to the switches.

Brakes are the most important system, without which it is strictly forbidden to roll out the bike. Modern brake systems for bicycles of various classes:

  • rim. pliers, V-brake;
  • disk;
  • drum-sleeve.

Rim brakes are clamping devices with pads that act on the wheel rims, slowing down their rotation. Pincer models have one fastening, due to the movement of the lever, the staples come closer, and when they are loosened, they move back. Pliers are placed in place of the wing attachment. Used as additional brakes on singlespeeds and road bikes.

V-brake works on the same principle, but the calipers are fixed: to the fork for the front brake, to the stays for the rear brake. V-brakes have more precision and braking force than crimped.

The disc brake consists of a disc (brake surface) fixed to the hub, a caliper and a drive. a lever and a cable. The brake pads are attached to the calipers, which are pressed against the disc when the handle is pressed. The disc precision is higher than that of the V-brake due to the larger braking surface, less pad travel and independence from rim geometry. By the type of drive, disc brakes are divided into mechanical and hydraulic.

Drum-hub brakes are outdated, but they continue to be actively installed on road models. The drum is hidden in the rear hub and is brought into contact with the pads by pressing the pedals back. To prevent the sleeve from rotating, a special locking mechanism is built in. Braking efficiency is low in comparison with rim and disc counterparts, but for single-speed road workers there is no better option.

A bicycle is a fairly extensive mechanism, and consists of a large number of components. During operation, an important indicator is the good condition of each of them. Now that we know how a bicycle works, we can diagnose, repair and service parts.

The rear wheel of the bike does not spin

Bicycles are often a hassle for their owners. Someone might think that this applies only to those who have them old, traveled hundreds of kilometers and seen a lot. However, this is not at all the case: even with new bicycles, you often have to tinker for a long time.

Those who like to ride can have a lot of problems with “iron horses”. Poorly inflated wheels, unadjusted brakes, loose chain, crooked steering wheel, and so on and so forth.

Of course, each of these difficulties requires separate attention, so today we will pay attention to only one of them. Namely, to the question of what to do if the rear wheel on the bike does not spin. And for a start, it’s worth understanding what this may even be connected with.

What are the problems?

There can be many reasons why the rear wheel does not spin well. However, do not forget that there are enough problems with the rear wheel. Each of them has its own reasons and its own way of solving. different questions require a different approach to finding answers to them. For clarity, the main problems associated with the fact that the rear wheel does not spin well will be listed below:

  • It doesn’t move at all;
  • The rear wheel is braked, slightly slower than the front;
  • It can be moved, but it requires a lot of effort.

As mentioned above, each of these problems requires a special approach to itself. Therefore, before proceeding with the “repair” of the bike, it is worth understanding what kind of problem you are going to fix. And in order to eliminate them easier, below each of them will be considered in more detail.

The wheel does not spin at all: what to do?

It often happens that a bicycle wheel cannot be moved at all. In this case, it is definitely not worth trying to move it by force. It is quite obvious that something is bothering him.

For some, a tightly stuck wheel may seem like a big problem, however, oddly enough, it will be easier to solve this problem than other difficulties with the movement of the wheel. There will be no need to adjust the bushing tapers or remove or align the discs.

The “locked” position of the wheel, as a rule, can be caused by two main reasons:

  • It doesn’t move because the brakes have clamped it;
  • The bicycle chain does not move backward or forward, blocking the movement of the wheel.

The first difficulty can be solved by adjusting the brakes, for which it is enough to check whether the brake cables are tensioned and whether they react to the movement of the brake levers. In order to eliminate the second cause, it is enough to lift the chain and put it on again, and then turn the pedal a little back and forth.

Possible causes of stalled movement

The most common situation is when the rear wheel just doesn’t move well. Not everyone is able to notice this, since some associate the difficulty in movement with the fact that they are tired, go downhill, or simply pedal not fast enough. This makes this situation the most common, because many people who like to ride simply start it.

Dealing with this kind of breakdown is not always easy. For the most part, this is because people are not wondering what it is related to. Therefore, before talking about what can be done about this, it will be useful to pay attention to the most common reasons:

  • Incorrectly configured brakes;
  • The disc pads simply rub against each other;
  • Disc is bent making movement difficult.

In the first case, you need to pay attention to the brake machine, or rather, to the position of the disc between the pads. If it is not parallel to both of them, it can cause difficulty in movement. In order to eliminate this trouble, you need to adjust the brake machine.

If the bike was recently purchased, you shouldn’t be surprised that the disc pads rub against each other a little. As a rule, you can find out about this by the characteristic sound. It is absolutely not necessary to correct this situation. it is enough just to ride a little, because after a couple of trips the pads themselves will rub against the disc.

The bent disc obviously needs to be straightened. This is also not difficult. A regular adjustable wrench can be used to straighten. The main thing is to do it carefully so that you do not have to align it back several times.

What to do if a wheel is having a hard time moving?

It also happens when the rear wheel just moves very badly. It is simply impossible to move a bicycle in such a situation, and attempts to move it from its place with the use of brute physical force may end badly. What can you do to solve this problem? Here you need to pay attention to the adjustment of the taper of the rear hub.

As a rule, this difficulty arises precisely because the cones of the bushing, for some reason, simply press down on the disc, which makes it difficult to move back and forth. It is best to unscrew a couple of bolts and remove the disc before adjusting the hub taper. Failure to do so can damage both the hub and the disc. After the operation is carried out, you need to put everything back in place and be sure to make sure that the wheel moves normally. Even the smallest difficulties can become the reason why the operation will have to be done again in the near future.