How to fix a rear hub on a bicycle

Front and rear bicycle hubs

The simplest front hub is located on the front wheel of the bicycle. And its only option is to spin the wheel. In the cylindrical body of this part there are holes (in the flanges at the ends) for the spokes, and there are also an axis and bearing units.

rear, bicycle

But the rear hub is already on the rear wheel. It is more complex and performs more functions. In addition to providing rotation, this part also serves as a base for a cassette or ratchet.

Until recently, all rear hubs were threaded, but today this design is a thing of the past. In new sports bikes (and not only) with many speeds, there are already improved models, drum. These parts have a “ratchet” mechanism (the driving part of the rear hub) is an integral part, and the cassette remains only a set of stars.

With bushings of modern design, the following are nullified:

  • the ability to strip the thread at the time of installation;
  • uneven wear of the ratchet and stars;
  • large energy losses of the node.

Now the weight of the bicycle sleeves is less and the rigidity is greater (due to the increase in the distance between the bearings). The splines of the drum made the mount much more reliable (it is almost impossible to rip the cassette off of them), and the spline connection provided ease of sleeve mounting. Plus, now you can not change the entire cassette, which is quite expensive, but only individual stars.

However, progress in this area does not stand still. Some well-known manufacturers (KING, CRISS, etc.) generally produce bushings with a unique mechanism. Almost eternal, the design of which is a pair of toothed rings made of steel, and a spring. When rolling, such rings do not touch the wheel, but when pedaling the rings are pressed into the sleeve by a spring, establishing the desired connection. Simple, reliable and most durable solution.

Bushing care

Maintenance of the vast majority of bicycle hubs is the maintenance of bearings that are part of their design. Bearings should be regularly:

  • Clean.
  • Lubricate.
  • Regulate.
  • And also sort out and dry if moisture gets in.

In general, there are certain subtleties in the matter of caring for bicycle socks:

  • the frequency of bulkheads is directly related to the intensity and operating conditions of each particular bike;
  • an increase in the frequency of adjustments depends on the occurrence of extraneous sounds during driving, backlash, etc.;
  • the service life of the device is affected by the quality of the lubricant (it is recommended to use high-quality formulations. plastic, undiluted);
  • on angular contact bearings for parsing, you need to use special tapered wrenches, as well as cassette pullers;
  • if the cyclist does not have the right tool, it will be easier and cheaper to contact a bike workshop;
  • replacement of the spokes in the front hub of the drum brake system or disc is carried out in a certain order (the spoke from the side is inserted into the flange. in addition, the rotor of the star is removed, as well as the brakes);
  • the sleeve is carefully checked for its integrity (so that there are no cracks in the case and in the holes for the spokes);
  • when the cyclist works with the hub (installs, changes, etc.), there should not be a hint of moisture nearby.

Bicycle hubs: device

A bicycle hub is actually the main part of the wheel of this vehicle. Its axle is clamped directly on the frame or on the fork dropouts. And with the wheel rim, it is connected by the outgoing spokes. As for the torque, both the bicycle hub and the wheel itself rotate due to the bearing.

The selection of bicycle hubs on the market today is overwhelming. And each cyclist selects this spare part “for himself” according to the material of manufacture. Bushings are made from:

  • heavy-duty aluminum alloy (the parts are lightweight, corrosion resistant);
  • become (spare parts come out cheaper in price);
  • titanium alloy (so far only in some models of selected manufacturers, for example, for the Shimano XTR series).

In addition, the bushings can be stamped, cast, or turned. The first and second will be stronger than the third, besides, they have a flawlessly even surface, which is also important.


In the mid-price segment, Shimano is a recognized manufacturer of quality bicycle hubs. Its products are based on thrust radial rolling bearings and, due to this circumstance, Shimano bushings are repairable and easily adjusted during the operational process. It is easy to recognize such bushings, even visually, using a non-standard spoke method. flangeless.

Many experienced cyclists believe that the Deore LX products offer the best price-performance ratio. But the most budgetary of the existing options is the Alivio bike socks (the front costs only 10, and the rear. 15).

Novatec (Taiwan) should be noted among the newcomers to the cycle market in this segment. Its products are of high quality and modest price. The company produces bicycle hubs of the original design, with good functionality.

Owners of expensive bikes are in high demand for bicycle hoes from Hope, Chris King, Tune, DT Swiss.

Bearing type

Bicycle hubs are equipped with only 2 types of bearings:

  • bulk (in the form of a cone, equipped with a metal cup, between which balls “roll”);
  • or industrial (consisting of inner and outer cages, boot, cage and balls).

If we talk about bearings of the second type (industrial), then there are 2 such bearings for each bushing. The anthers cover them tightly and reliably protect them from negative external influences, therefore, the elements of industrial bearings do not need any frequent or complex maintenance. This option is versatile and suitable for almost any type of bike ride. True, any industrial bearing is fundamentally more expensive than a bulk one, but the price is justified by it:

  • high quality;
  • and excellent performance.

However, the industrial version also has its drawbacks. And it is because of them that bulk parts have not yet been ousted from the market. In particular, industrial bearings are difficult to install. In conditions of a bicycle trip, for example, it is extremely difficult to do this, almost impossible, since it will be necessary to press out, and then press in an already assembled element. But with a loose bearing there will be no problems. Is the ball broken? Replacing a part is a matter of 10 minutes from the moment the cyclist stops and finds a malfunction.

Mount type

On a bicycle, the wheels are held precisely due to the fact that the axial sleeve ends are inserted into the holes of the frame feathers and are fixed there. The most common are the following options for such an attachment:

  • eccentric, in which it is easy to mount / dismantle wheels (practically without the use of tools);
  • and the cheapest wrench, in which there are 2 nuts for each bushing (in this case, the wheels are attached and removed using a wrench of the correct size).

In mountain bikes, in addition to conventional bushings, disc bushings are used, designed for the possible installation of a disc brake rotor. At the same time, there are 2 standards for rotary fasteners:

  • splined, equipped with a retaining ring;
  • and ISO on six bolts.

Quality MTB bikes are often supplied by manufacturers with double contact bike sleeves or labyrinth seals to keep wheel resistance to a minimum. However, the protection against water and dirt may suffer.

We disassemble the case, clean it and lubricate it

In order for the subsequent assembly of the wheel to take place, it is better to carry out repair work on a spoked bushing. Dismantling the brakeless bushing is carried out in several stages:

  • Removing the cassette with a puller or a whip from the axial element.
  • Opening the retaining ring.
  • Removing washers and bulk bearings (industrial bearings). We put Accent in their rightful place in order to then assemble the parts correctly.
  • Inspection of bearing damage. We replace worn-out elements with new analogs, suitable for further cleaning with a solvent from dirty impurities.
  • Removing the axle completely.
  • Cleaning the body from dirty impurities. Wipe each interior cavity with a soft cloth only.
  • Consistent lubrication of all parts. The sequence is very important for reverse installation. First, a small amount of grease is distributed over the walls of the housing. Bearings are impregnated somewhat more abundantly.
  • We finish the whole process by installing the stopper and tightening the sleeve using fastening nuts.

Attention! Avoid overtightening the hub so as not to obstruct wheel rotation.

Find your sport

The service life of a bicycle directly depends on the quality of its service. For example, repairing the rear hub of a bicycle can be done by hand. Although the bushings can be of different designs, the principle of their assembly and disassembly is almost the same.

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It is not necessary to use all the necessary tools to repair the rear hub. You can get by with a minimum set, having previously prepared the workplace. It must be clean, dust-free, and free of lint and thread. Otherwise, the sleeve may be damaged.

Be careful when repairing the bushing

The bushing design consists of many parts, for the production of which a rather fragile material was used. hardened steel or hardened chromium-molybdenum alloys. Therefore, it is very reasonable to approach the work with fragile elements with great care. It is also rational to use eye protection.

Attention! Since parts are likely to burst, to avoid serious injury, use minimum effort and protect your face or not place your face too close. Fragments tend to fly apart with lightning speed. Estimated expansion speed. from 600m / s.

During operation, the hub must be lugged into the wheel. The cassette sleeve, none of its components should be clamped in a vice.

Advice. For beginners who have not previously repaired the bushing, it is advisable to initially practice on an excessive or cheap analogue. You should also follow safety precautions.

When a bicycle rear wheel hub repair is needed

Timely maintenance of the rear hub keeps the part in good condition. Periodically it is necessary:

  • tighten the body;
  • replace worn out bearing balls;
  • lubricate all body parts directly from the inside;
  • adjust the pads on the brake sleeve.

Dismantling the wheel itself is somewhat easier than disassembling and removing the bushing housing. It is not necessary to remove all parts from the spokes. Complete disassembly is required if the entire body needs to be replaced.

Although the wheel axle is an unpretentious part, it still sometimes requires repair. Components need adjustment or replacement:

  • when the body of the screen is created on the move and its instability, which is easy to determine with two fingers;
  • when there is wheel play during movement;
  • if we observe bad rolling dynamics;
  • when a crunch is heard, indicating worn bearings.

Looseness and twisting of the rear hub housing is easy enough to deal with. You just need to tighten the fastening nuts. If they are tightly tightened (and this also occurs), the wheel is somewhat more difficult to rotate. It is therefore advisable to loosen the nuts. The poor condition of the bearings or lack of lubrication are determined by the deterioration of the roll, the occurrence of extraneous sounds.

We begin to disassemble the rear hub, we remove the cassette retaining ring

We remove the inner ring of the bearing itself with two needle-nose pliers, while carefully pushing the “nose” directly into the spline groove of the outer circlip. We fix the stars well, as if turning them along the course of the free wheel. If the wheel has a right hand thread, use the same method. Rotation of the sleeve retaining ring must be counterclockwise.

Design differences

The rear hub device of a mountain bike has some differences from the design of the undercarriage for road bikes.

Bushings for road and road bike models have oil seals. special seals designed to protect bearings from contamination. Often glands are integrated into a single piece with tapered elements.

The rear hub of a “Stealth” bicycle, as well as of other common models of mountain and off-road bikes, in addition to the oil seals connected to the cones, often has rubber anthers. The presence of such elements helps to increase the protection of the running gear from dirt, all kinds of debris and dust.

Unlike the road bike category, mountain bikes are designed to ride in the most rugged terrain. Naturally, the use of additional protection for the rear hub mechanism will proportionally increase the weight of the two-wheeled vehicle and reduce the ease of movement. That is why the assembly of the rear hub of a road bike is carried out by most manufacturers without installing these elements.

Separately, it is worth considering the design features of bicycles with disc brakes. Here mechanisms are used, the flanges of which are connected to the brake discs.

Differences are also present in the methods of connecting the ratchets to the hub with the cassette mounts. Most common domestic bike models contain hubs with built-in ratchets. In contrast, the rear hub of a speed bike is usually a screw-on type of ratchet.

Bicycle rear hub: device and assembly instructions

The rear hub of a bicycle must always be in good condition, because it is it that determines the smooth running of a two-wheeled vehicle. According to many cyclists, the ride quality of a bike depends largely on the type and mechanical performance of the frame. However, in practice, the defining moment here is the state of the undercarriage. bushings, carriages, chains, and other systems.

According to compatibility with different types of brake systems, there are several distinct types of rear hubs:

  • for disc brakes;
  • for roller brakes;
  • for rim brakes.

Of course, the more complex rear hub of a bicycle, designed to be connected to a disc brake system, can easily be used when assembling a wheel with rim brakes, but not vice versa.


The rear hub of the bicycle must be equipped with bearings with a dust cover. Only in this case it will be possible to forget about their maintenance and replacement, having driven more than 10,000 km on the bike. Frankly low-quality bearings will make you endure unpleasant sounds and suffer from wheel play after the first ride in rainy weather, not to mention winter. Reliable dirt protection is represented by various seals that prevent contact of the lubricant with the external environment.

Currently, there are bulk and industrial bearings for rear bushings. The difference is that the wheel play can be eliminated by performing the usual adjustment of the bulk bearings. If there is a similar problem in the case of industrial bearings, most likely they will have to be replaced. Therefore, the rear wheel hub of the bicycle should be selected based on the type and reliability of the bearings.

The main parameter of the rear hub axle is its length. To select the hub according to the axle length, you just need to measure the distance between the opposite outer nuts on the corresponding mountings of the bicycle frame.


The rear hub of a bicycle includes the following structural elements:


Having studied the internal and external design of the rear bicycle hub, it is recommended to pay attention to the wide range of standard sizes of this system. The presence of some differences in parameters is due to the use of hubs on various types of bicycles:

  • track models. 10×120 mm;
  • road bikes. 10×130 mm;
  • the bulk of common mountain models. 10×135 mm;
  • downhill bicycles. 12×135 mm;
  • professional models of the “cross-country” class. 12×142 mm;
  • models of bicycles for freestyle, extreme sports. 12×150 mm;
  • BMX bikes. 14×110 mm.

Specific features

In the overwhelming majority, the rear bushings are asymmetric, since a cassette or a rear sprocket should be located on the right side of the mechanism. Compared to the left flange, the right flange is closer to the center of the axis. As a result, on the right side of the spoke is slightly shorter.

There is a special type of planetary bushings. The internal structure of such products contains a mechanism for shifting gears. Only one star is installed on such systems. The bushings of this plan can be operated without installing a chain tensioner.


This component of the rear hub design acts as a connecting shell for other functional mechanisms. The main requirement for the body is a high degree of rigidity, since during the ride the hub is subjected to significant torsional loads.

The rear wheel hub of a bicycle can be protected by a stamped or cast body. The most reliable high-strength housings are produced in the first way.

Bicycle hub replacement

The hub is an essential part of the bike design. Both bushings support the entire weight of the rider and the bike itself. All loads during landing and impacts in case of unevenness are also taken over by the hub. Therefore, breakdowns due to which the hub is replaced on a bicycle are very common.

In this article, you will learn how to change the hub on the rear and front wheel of a bicycle, we will understand the types of bicycle hubs and talk a little about their maintenance.


In order for the bushing to last for a long time, it must be regularly serviced. Maintenance consists in cleaning the bearings and housing cups from old grease that has already collected enough dirt. Black grease indicates dirt. This grease must be changed to prevent dirt from destroying cups and bearings.

When you have completely disassembled the bushing, wipe off the old grease with a rag or paper from the bearings and bushing housing cups. Apply new grease to cups and bearings. Next, assemble the structure.

Dismantling and replacing parts of the front hub of the bicycle

To carry out the parsing procedure, you need several wrenches. Wrenches 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17mm may be needed. The most commonly used wrenches are 14 and 15 mm. Sometimes a thin pair of wrenches are required to remove the small locknut and not damage the structure.

Remove the retaining nuts from the dropouts. Most often a 14 mm wrench is needed.

Remove the wheel from the bike. If you have a rim brake, you need to remove the pads so that the wheel can be removed.

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Unscrew the locknuts. Here you need 2 keys, lock nuts can be for different key sizes and for different widths. It is necessary to hold one key on the thread of the guide, and unscrew the lock nut with the other.

Remove the guide and pull out the axle. At this point, the guides can be removed by hand.

Advice: if you cannot remove something, then do not rush to do it with great force, so as not to break the tool or sleeve. Perhaps some detail matched the other. With this problem, you can use the anti-procotic chemistry WD-40.

How To Replace Bike Wheel Hub Bearings

Pull out the bearings carefully. If you have them of a bulk type, then prepare the place of work so that they are not lost. The balls are not connected to anything in any way, so they can easily fall out and get lost. If you have industrial bearings, you will have to gently pry a thin plastic part with something to get to the balls.

Tip: Separate the balls from the right cup and the left cup, most likely they are already slightly deformed. In order not to propagate the deformation to another cup, it is best to always insert the bearings in their previous place.

Replace the bearings. Spread the balls evenly around the edges of the cup if you have a mound. Industrial just enough to slide into place.

Insert the axle, tighten the guides and locknuts. Make sure that the axle protrudes from the cups without distortions in length on one side. Slide the guides and locknuts onto it. If you have loose bearings, then a dilemma may arise: tighten tightly and eliminate the play, or leave play, but allow the bearings to rotate freely. If the backlash cannot be eliminated without strong twisting, then it is best to leave a small space, but not bring the hub to a state of complete deformation while driving.

Replace the wheel and tighten the nuts. Make sure that the wheel is level, without distortions.

How to disassemble and reassemble the sleeve

How to disassemble and replace a part for a rear hub on a bicycle

The rear hubs are part of the drivetrain, so they have an additional mechanism that depends on the type of bike drivetrain:

Before you ask the question: how to change the hub on the rear wheel of a bicycle, you need to identify the cause of the breakdown. To do this, first disassemble it according to the instructions in accordance with the type in the bushings

Rear ratchet hub. The principle of operation is the same as with the front one, but after removing the wheel from the bike (after Step 2.), you need to remove the ratchet with a special puller and a wrench and continue with Step 3.

Rear hub for cassette. After dismantling the wheel (Step 2), remove the cassette with a special puller and a whip. Dismantling the drum consists in removing the locknut and the guide, after which you need to carefully remove the drum from the axis.

The fixed and single speed hubs are disassembled in the same way as the front ones, you don’t even need to remove the sprocket. If you have a BMX, then you have to remove the “driver”, it is removed according to the principle of a drum for a cassette. Sometimes there are single-speed bushings with a foot brake, for example, on a bicycle “Ukraine”, there you also need to pull out the brake mechanism.

The planetary hubs are very difficult to service due to their complex design, they usually do not require maintenance at all due to the closed mechanism. There is no single principle of maintenance of all planetary systems; each model should have its own instruction. The process is something like this: after unscrewing all the nuts, you need to remove the housing cover and remove the core. If you managed to do this, then you need to disassemble all moving mechanisms for service. It is important to remember how everything was originally, if you are doing it for the first time, so that you can collect it.

Removing the tires

Place a plastic bead under the rim.

While pushing, lift the edge of the tire over the rim along its entire length.

After part of the tire is pulled out of the rim, the remainder of the tire will pull out easily.

Pull the bead over the wheel, pull out the edge of the tire.

Pull the nipple out of the hole in the rim, remove the tube from the tire.

Repeat the same steps to free the second edge.

If the camera has been punctured, seal the hole or replace the camera itself. You can also install a special anti-puncture tape (slipper) on the rim.

  • A normal or regular thread is a thread that turns clockwise, a reverse thread is a thread that turns counterclockwise. Follow the instructions for the type of thread carefully.
  • Regular lubrication of threaded connections prolongs their life.
  • When removing parts, it is advisable to clean and lubricate before putting them back on the bike, which will significantly extend the life of the bike.
  • Look carefully for the directions of the screwed connections of the bicycle‘s screw-on assemblies. Check the thread direction if the part is stuck and does not want to turn. You may be turning in the wrong direction.
  • After removing the part from the bike, study it carefully and remember how and where it stood on the bike. You can also take photos of the stages of dismantling the bike.
  • Avoid placing your fingers near the chain or sprockets when turning the pedals or wheels on your bike. You can injure your finger if it gets caught between the chain and the sprocket.

Remove the right connecting rod

Remove the right connecting rod in exactly the same way as you removed the left one. There is an asterisk on the right connecting rod. If there is a need to replace it, unscrew the bolts that hold the sprocket on the connecting rod with a hex wrench.

Now about the lubricant!

Various bearing substances can be used as a lubricant. Litol-24 is perfect. Its advantage is that this type of grease does not lose its properties even in winter.

Apply grease to the place where the balls of the second bearing were located. The amount of material will be sufficient, which will help to glue the balls motionlessly.

Then carefully install the balls themselves and insert the axle without moving the spherical structural elements.

After that, turn the bike pedal over, making sure that the axle does not fall out, and lubricate the ball cup for the first bearing. After installing them, tighten the cone, put the washer and locknut in place.

As you can see, the procedure for disassembling and lubricating the pedals is not difficult. It is important to be careful and follow instructions.

Then you will provide yourself with a comfortable ride and extend the life of the bicycle pedal hub.

For more information on disassembling bike pedal grease, see the video below:

Partial lubrication

If you are faced with a squeak, but there is no time for serious and thorough repairs, you can use partial lubrication.

It will not eliminate the problem completely, but will only allow you to postpone its solution for a certain time.

How To Fix Loose Wobbly Wheel Hub

Like pain pills, it will relieve pain, and when you have the opportunity, you will undergo a full course of treatment.

Any liquid lubricating oil will work for you. This method does not require unscrewing the pedal from the crank arm. Lay the bike on its side with the end of the pedal facing up. Remove the plug covering the hole where the bushing is located. A knife or screwdriver is suitable for this. Then slowly pour 2-3 ml of oil into the structure. In this case, you need to slowly rotate the pedal so that the lubricating fluid penetrates into the mechanism. Then replace the plug and quickly rotate the pedal again. Finally, lift the machine onto the wheels and rotate the part several times again.

This will help to get rid of unpleasant sensations during driving and difficulties in rotation for a certain period of time. However, pretty soon the oil will leak out, and the above symptoms will manifest themselves. Therefore, for a high-quality “treatment” of bicycle pedals, a complete disassembly of the mechanism will be required.

Removing the saddle

Unscrew the bolt at the top of the seat tube. where the seat post fits into the frame.

Move the saddle with the pin out of the frame with a left-right movement.

Bicycle “Stealth

The manufacturer attracts with serious equipment and carbon frames (StelsNavigator 890DCarbon). An amazing aspect is the attractive price-performance ratio.

Removing the carriage

Removing the carriage is the most time consuming part of the job. You may not be able to cope yourself and will have to contact a bike mechanic. Please note that there are a large number of carriage models and there are specific keys for them. The article deals with the dismantling of the ISIS carriage. The carriage cups have a standard thread, while the carriage has a reverse thread.

Place the carriage wrench on the carriage spindle, which itself is shallow. The key is easy to put on. Work carefully, do not rip the threads and splines on the carriage.

The ISIS carriage has 2 parts. a body and a stop cup. On them the thread is applied in different ways, check which side of the retaining ring is put on. In most cases, the retaining ring has a regular thread, it should unscrew easily enough (when compared with the other side).

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Choose the other side, turn the key counterclockwise until the cup is removed.

How to remove the cup from the spindle, turn the frame over and pull out the carriage, first rotating it clockwise.


To gain access to the punctured tube, you will need to disassemble and remove the tire from the wheel rim. It will take some skill to do the sorting, so don’t be discouraged if you can’t do it right away. It happens as follows:

  • The wheel you removed must be placed upside down with asterisks.
  • Now you need to remove the nipple cap.
  • The next step is to cling to the edge of the tire with the help of the bead blade and turn out into the middle of the wheel.
  • After fixing the bead vane, you need to take another one of the same, and perform the same actions along the circumference, thereby disassembling the wheel completely.

Since the tire has already been disassembled, it is already easily removed, and the process of removing the camera will not complicate you at all.


The most common problem that a bike’s rear hub can upset you is a loose or tight taper. If weakening is observed in the cone, then the wheel will begin to play strongly. In the second case, when the cone is tightened, the bicycle will move much more “tight” than in normal mode, and the bearings may crackle. One way or another, you need to repair the rear wheel hub of the bike as soon as possible.

To eliminate the backlash or, on the contrary, tighten the cone, wrenches are needed, most often they use a 15 mm open-end cone wrench, and a 17 mm open-end wrench. First, you need to start loosening the locknut, after which you need to proceed to loosening or tightening the flare nut to the required position.

Ideally, there should be no backlash. Finally, the lock nut must be screwed into place. If the cone is adjusted properly, the wheel will turn easily due to the force of gravity acting on the reflector or nipple.

It also happens that the rear axle of the hub can be broken or bent. The main cause of such a malfunction is usually poor quality parts. If this happens, you need to completely replace the hub axle with a new, better quality.

When replacing the axle, or when going through routine maintenance, or during the repair of the rear wheel hub of the bike, so that it is more convenient to dismantle the ratchet. If the essence of the repair is just a tightening or loosening of the cone, then this action is not necessary.

To avoid possible breakdowns, you need to periodically undergo maintenance. Its essence most often comes down to adjusting the cone and washing, cleaning the components and lubricating the bearings.

Less often. they change bearings, oil seals or washers. The cost of repairs can result in high costs, in the event that maintenance was rarely carried out and in general the bushing was not particularly monitored.

For example, it happens that the bearings “eat out” the grooves in the bushing housing, this can happen because the axle was bent or not lubricated enough. In this case, in order to repair the rear wheel of the bike, you will need to completely replace the hub body, or maybe the wheel itself.

Therefore, in order to avoid such a situation, before going on a long bike trip, you need to carry out maintenance of your bike, and if problems are found, then fix them in a timely manner.


One of the most difficult parts of a bicycle is the bottom bracket. What to do if on the way she let you down, and there is no one to ask for help? Everything is simple, and after reading the text written below, using the minimum number of tools, you can easily disassemble and repair the bicycle carriage.

To disassemble the carriage assembly, the first step is to dismantle the stars and the connecting rod system. We will not dwell on this in detail, since it is not so difficult, and there is plenty of information on this topic on the net.

On pleasure bicycles and inexpensive “mountaineers” the carriage of the standard modification is installed. The order of its disassembly is indicated below:

  • First of all, you need to unscrew the lock nut on the left using a special key;
  • After that, we remove the carriage cup on the same side, using a 16 key for this (note that the right-hand thread is cut on the left side, and the left-hand thread is similarly made on the right);
  • If necessary, you will also need to unscrew the cup on the right. To do this, you need to use a key for 32;
  • Now we take out the carriage assembly. It is best to immediately flush and, accordingly, clean the carriage tube, first of all, the thread;
  • Next, we are engaged in flushing the parts of the carriage assembly with gasoline or kerosene, along the way we look at whether the bearings, cups and axles are intact. If necessary, you need to replace worn parts;
  • The next step is the same operations, only in reverse order: we screw the cup to the right to the very end;
  • Now you need to thoroughly grease everything with grease (lithol), put bearings on the axle, and insert it into place;
  • Next, you need to screw in the cup on the left, until the axis stops rotating. And now the cup needs to be gradually released, until nothing interferes with the rotation of the axis, and it will be smooth. It is worth remembering that backlash is not allowed;
  • The lock nut should now be tightened;
  • We make a final check of the rotation and the absence of backlash. If there is a need for this, then you need to repeat paragraphs 8-9.


  • If your bike has rim brakes, the first step is to unfasten them. This is done as follows: you need to heap the levers to which the pads are attached, and raise the part that secures the cable.
  • Now you should turn the bike over with the saddle down, so that it finds its support on the handlebars and saddle. If your bike is equipped with a headlight or bike computer, you should be careful not to damage them.
  • Next, we will loosen the eccentric of the wheel holding the wheel on the frame.
  • Take a position behind the bike. Now you need to slightly unbend the lever in the rear derailleur, pull out the rear wheel, which should rise up without much difficulty.
  • All that remains is to remove the chain from the wheel sprockets. Now the wheel is disconnected.


To begin with, it should be said that the repair of the rear wheel of a bicycle can be associated with the elimination of the “eight” on the wheel or the filling of the wheel hub. However, since these are specific operations that require certain experience and tools, they deserve separate consideration and will not be described in this text. Below we will tell you how to cope with a puncture of the rear wheel, since everyone can face this.

Before you start repairing a wheel, you need to dismantle it. The front wheel can be removed easily, but removing the rear wheel, for a beginner bike enthusiast, may not be such an easy task. Let’s take a closer look at how to dismantle the rear wheel.


  • First of all, you need to determine where the camera is pierced. To do this, the camera needs to be pumped up and examined carefully. A characteristic hiss will be heard at the puncture site. This place needs to be marked somehow.
  • Then you need to free the chamber from air by pressing the nipple tongue.
  • Your repair kit should have fine sandpaper, you need to take it and rub well the place where the tire pierced.
  • Now you need to apply a thin layer of adhesive. This is done in such a way that the piece on which the glue is applied is slightly larger than the patch in size.
  • Let the glue lie down for a couple of minutes, and then you should glue the patch from which the protective film has been removed in advance. Be careful not to get air bubbles under the patch.
  • Now press the patch against the camera for as long as possible.

After gluing the inner tube, run your hand over the inside of the tire. It is not uncommon for the cause of the puncture to get stuck in the tire, and if so, then it must be removed. Don’t forget this moment.


To repair a bicycle with your own hands, you must have certain skills and knowledge. In this article, we will tell you how to repair the rear wheel hub of a bicycle, repair a bicycle carriage, and also tell you how to fix a puncture in the rear wheel of a bicycle on your own, and for novice cyclists, we will tell you what pressure in a bicycle tire should comply with the norm.