How to fix a pedal on a bicycle

Features and nuances

Yes, indeed, bicycle pedals, together with the connecting rods, form a threaded pair, screwed into them by means of a thread cut on the inside of the pedal axle. On the same inner side of the pedal axis there are faces for a 15mm wrench (there are some options for a 16mm wrench). To remove or install them in place, you just need to unscrew / screw them with a flat (open-end) wrench. But at the same time, there are two secrets that every cyclist should know:

  • very often the distance between the pedal frame and the connecting rod is very narrow, and an ordinary flat, and even more so, an adjustable wrench simply does not fit into this gap. For this purpose, there is a special flat and narrow wrench 15mm (sometimes 16mm), which is called pedal; This is the pedal wrench that every cyclist should have in his portable bicycle emergency kit. By the way, such a pedal key is part of a widespread bicycle multitool, long known as a family key.
  • this rarely happens in technology, but the direction of the thread on the right and left pedals is different, on the right. the traditional right-handed, and on the left. less often left-handed. This is necessary so that when pedaling while driving, they do not spontaneously unscrew from the connecting rods. Without knowing this nuance, you can unscrew the left pedal as much as you like, before rolling your eyes out of the orbits, trying to turn the key clockwise. In fact, at this time you will drag it out.
    pedal, bicycle

The roots of the problem

The group of questions how to unscrew, remove, disassemble pedals on a bicycle, put them back in place is not so idle. After all, it is known that not all cyclists are well-worn and experienced loafers. Quite often beginners, cyclists, poorly versed in the structure of a bicycle, happen. Here, such a cyclist rides for himself, rides for his own pleasure, and rrraz! there is a need for him to replace the bike pedals with new ones. We will not go deep into the reasons for the emergence of such a need. it can be a banal repair, or the installation of more perfect, but even more beautiful products.

And then such a cyclist takes a universal adjustable wrench in his hands and approaches the bike. and spreads his arms to the sides. Very often, especially on the most common flat-ride pedals, installed in about 70 percent of bicycles in use, an open-end wrench or adjustable wrench is simply not suitable because it does not fit into the narrow space between the pedal frame and the crank arm. And which one is suitable?

Routing

Thus, the flow chart for removing and installing bicycle pedals can be as follows:

  • fix the bike in an upright position (you need to put it to the nearest wall, post, etc.), or put it horizontally on a clean platform;
  • set the connecting rods in a stable upper or lower position;
  • insert a 15 (or 16) pedal wrench into the narrow space between the pedal frame and the connecting rod, grab the wrench edges with it on the pedal axis;
  • turning with a wrench counterclockwise (for the right pedal) or clockwise (respectively, for the left), unscrew the pedals and disconnect them from the connecting rods. In case of significant unscrewing effort (dirty, oxidized bicycle pedal / connecting rod threaded pair), it may be necessary to increase the lever of the applied force, for which an extension pipe is usually used. In severe cases, it may be necessary to soak the threaded joint with anti-corrosive liquid type WD or kerosene.

Installing bicycle pedals on a bicycle is done in almost the reverse order:

Repairing A Mountain Bike Pedal With Excessive Play

  • put the bike upright or put it upright;
  • using a pedal wrench, screw the pedal axles of the right and left bike pedals into the corresponding cranks all the way, while turning the wrench clockwise counterclockwise, respectively.

How to remove pedals from a bicycle, their repair and maintenance

Bicycle pedals are the part of the crankset that propels the bike. Therefore, this unit is subject to heavy load and requires special attention.

Bicycle pedals are a fairly simple mechanism, but at the same time they consist of:

  • Bicycle pedal axis. is a metal pin that has a thread at the end, with which it is screwed into the connecting rod;
  • Pedal platform. the surface that contacts the foot;
  • Bicycle pedal bearings. provide torque along the pedal axis;
  • Bolts, nuts, plugs
  • Read about why the pedals on the bike spin and what to do to avoid it in this article.
  • Contact bike pedals, folding pedals and other pedals can be found here.
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Operation of the pedals in various weather conditions can lead to their failure, pedal axis backlash, crackling, crunching, knocking may occur directly in the bicycle pedals. All these problems are not difficult to fix. Therefore, if you notice that your pedals squeak on your bike, then in order to make the pedal more flexible, you will need to unscrew and remove it from the bike.

Today we will look at how to disassemble a regular pedal and clipless pedals.

How to lubricate pedals on a bicycle

After the manipulations done, all parts must be thoroughly wiped with a clean cloth. To facilitate the task, you can put all the pedal assemblies in kerosene, then wipe them. This will maximize the cleaning of old grease, sand and other things. Be sure to check the condition of the balls so that they are all the same shape and size.

Then grease all parts with heavy grease, it is recommended to grease with waterproof grease and then reassemble the pedal in the reverse order. Do not forget to wipe the axle thread cleanly and lubricate it with grease before installing the pedal, which will allow you to smoothly put the pedal in place. And next time the pedals will unscrew easily.

How to disassemble pedals on a bicycle

First, let’s look at the simplest pedal problems (crackling, crunching) that can occur:

  • It is necessary to check for any damage to the pedal (cracks, chips, etc.);
  • Check the place of attachment of the pedal axle to the connecting rods, over time it can weaken or moisture and sand can get into the connection. For prophylaxis, you can unscrew, carefully wipe the axle thread and the connecting rod itself, grease with thick grease and tighten again;
  • We check the pedal for backlash. To do this, we hold the pedal axis and try to move the platform in different directions with our hands. If there is a backlash, then this is corrected by tightening the lock nut, which is located under the plug (see figure)
  • If the pedal is spinning tightly or there is play, it is advisable to completely bust the bicycle pedal. It will not take you a lot of time. Let’s get started:

All you need to remove the pedals from the bicycle crank is an adjustable wrench.

The pedal axis usually has several edges, which allows you to unscrew it without much effort.

  • Remove the pedal cover with a screwdriver, which is located at the end;
  • Unscrew the lock nut, while holding the axle with a key;
  • Removes the lock washer;
  • Unscrew the cone;
  • We take out the bearings (Be careful, as the balls can roll in different directions)
  • Removes the pedal platform from the axle.
  • How to disassemble a bicycle pedal if you have clipless pedals

    Clip-on pedals are more complex and the rotation is tighter. Using an example, let’s look at the maintenance of the most common and cheapest contacts. Shimano PD-M520. If you do not have any problems with the pedals, then it is better not to disassemble them again, so as not to amass unnecessary problems. They do not require frequent maintenance.

    They are removed from the connecting rods in the same way as conventional pedals. using a key. To remove the axle, you will need a special tool. a Shimano TL-PD40 crank puller, keys for 7, 10 and 15. For the older Shimano PD-M540 model, such a puller is not required.

    To unscrew the bicycle pedal, you need a special puller

    • We put the connecting rod puller on the pedal in the place indicated by the arrow and unscrew it. After that, we easily remove the axle from the pedal body.
    • Holding the axle with a wrench or holding it in a vice, unscrew the lock nut that holds the entire axial structure. Then we take out all the nodes in order, but be careful, as there are balls inside. There should be 12 of them on each side.

    The pedal is completely disassembled. Here we do everything the same way, carefully wipe the old grease from all pedal assemblies and grease it with waterproof grease. Putting it up in the reverse order. The balls must be laid out one by one on their seat, having previously lubricated with a thick layer of grease. It is important to tighten the nuts well at the same time so that the pedal rotates smoothly and without backlash. After the performed manipulations, remove all excess grease that may be released after tightening the pedal. The Shimano PD-M520 pedal diagram is shown below for an overview of the component parts.

    General diagram of disassembly of the bicycle pedal

    • If you want to know more about a bicycle bottom bracket, read here.
    • Lots of useful information about bike tools.
    • In addition, you may be interested in how to remove the carriage from the bike, how to disassemble and repair the carriage. About this at this link //velosipedinfo.ru/kak-snyat-karetku-s-velosiped.

    Watch another video on how to install the pedals on your bike correctly

    Five ways to stop your car if the brakes fail

    The braking system of most cars has two independent circuits, which either duplicate each other or share some of the functions of the braking system.

    READ  How To Make Bicycle Brakes

    Accordingly, if during braking the brake pedal stalled (most often this happens with uneven wear or destruction of brake pads) or failed (most often due to air ingress through leaking cylinder seals) and rested on the floor, do not perceive this situation as a universal apocalypse.

    Continue to press down on the pedal in a rhythmic forward motion, like pumping a wheel with a foot pump. With a high degree of probability, after five to ten such squeezes, you will pump the brakes and restore the pressure in the system.

    If pumping the brakes was not successful, and, perhaps, even simultaneously with pumping, we try to brake with the engine, switching to lower gears.

    In the case of “mechanics”, everything is obvious and simple. gradually we pass, say, from the fifth to the third, from the third. to the second or first, depending on the speed of movement. It is clear that “going down” immediately, say, from “fifth” to “first” is contraindicated. the transmission can be damaged.

    The same sequence of actions. with those “automatic machines” where manual mode is provided: go to the manual algorithm and switch “down”. For the same automatic transmissions where there is no manual mode, move the selector to the labels of the lowered ranges (positions 3,2,1 or L. (range limitation). A similar method is also prescribed for variator boxes, which, as a rule, simulate low gears in a virtual “manual” mode.

    The main thing to understand. it is possible to brake with a mechanical “handbrake” in case of failure of the main brake system only at a low speed. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the car can go into a skid. In all cases, the mechanical “handbrake” should be slowed down very smoothly, progressively, gradually increasing the effort.

    Contrary to popular belief, the electronic parking brake can also be used in an emergency to slow the vehicle down. To do this, you do not need to press the button, but hold and hold it. In this case, the electric motors that operate the brakes will clamp the rear pads with brake discs, activating emergency braking.

    over, the electronic or electromechanical “handbrake” provides much more effective and safe braking than the classic, mechanical counterpart. The fact is that it activates the hydraulic braking system, working in conjunction with the ABS and ESP systems, and therefore can be used, among other things, for emergency braking at higher speeds.

    Side-to-side lane changes create additional rolling resistance, which also reduces vehicle speed.

    However, do not use this technique at high speed! It is fraught with skidding and an almost inevitable accident.

    It is also wise to steer the vehicle uphill, if available. If you have enough experience, the speed is not too high (no more than 30 km / h), and the road is free, you can also try to make a series of “police turns” (a car maneuver in which the vehicle makes a 180-degree turn, and then, having driven a certain distance in reverse, performs reverse actions, and then moves forward).

    If the brakes fail, for example when driving downhill, and the other measures mentioned above have failed, the most radical method of deceleration remains. use of obstacles. You will be very lucky if your downstream neighbor agrees to substitute a bumper. will literally stand on your course, and you will have to “dock” to the savior.

    The assistant will only have to use the braking system of his car. It is best to choose a slow-moving truck with an underride bar as such an obstacle.

    If no savior is found, the exit to the side of the road remains in order to extinguish the speed of the bushes in winter. about the drifts. In urban areas, at a not very high speed, in a critical situation, you can get involved in braking with the wheels of one of the sides against the curbs or with the whole side against fences, stops and concrete bumpers. At the same time, of course, it should be understood that such a maneuver is very dangerous and requires high driving skills.

    Primarily. do not panic and do not reinvent the wheel (for example, you definitely do not need to jump out of the car). Do not put into reverse gear. Although you can find similar advice on the Web, the “reverse” at best will not turn on (protection from the fool is involved), and at worst, it will kill the transmission.

    With a high degree of probability, the rocker will break, the gears will crumble or the rods will bend. Finally, although the “experienced” often give advice to turn off the engine without turning off the ignition, we do not recommend doing this. If only because in this case, the hydraulic or electric power steering is deactivated, which will only create additional difficulties.

    Types and structure of bicycle pedals

    Before proceeding with self-repair, you need to get general information about the types and structure of this seemingly simple element of the bike. Conventionally, bicycle pedals are divided into ordinary (traditional) designs, contact ones designed for special shoes, as well as combined ones, combining both types. one plane is ordinary, the other is for special sneakers. All types are structurally almost the same and consist of the following elements:

    • the axis is the basis of the entire element, which is a pin made of metal, screwed into the connecting rod;
    • platform. a part directly in contact with the cyclist’s leg, attached to the axle;
    • bearings. elements that provide a movable (do not impede rotation) connection between the axle and the platform;
    • additional parts. bolts, nuts, guaranteeing reliable fixation of all components of the pedal.
    READ  Adjusting the brakes on a bicycle disc mechanical

    How to Remove & Install Bike Pedals | Bicycle Repair

    Having received information about the structure of this element of the bicycle, you can proceed directly to the repair.

    Important! Before proceeding with the repair of the left or right pedal, it is necessary to prepare the corresponding tool. You will need a small adjustable wrench to get to the nut without interference. Puller and pedal wrench: the first is for contact types, the second is for non-standard nuts. Both tools are usually supplied with.

    Solution to the problem

    Most often, cyclists are faced with the fact that it is not the pedals themselves that are unscrewed, but the connecting rod itself. the lever that transfers the rotation energy to the system of stars and chains, forcing the bike to ride. This is due to a factory defect in rare cases, due to wear of parts, but more often due to poor-quality assembly after maintenance work (lubrication of elements) or replacement of the unit. The play that occurs when riding on a loosely attached connecting rod loosens the fixing bolt, which, in turn, turns the square of the carriage into a more abstract figure. Ideally, a failed unit should be replaced. However, if such an opportunity is not observed in the near future, and you want to ride a bike, you can fix the problem yourself.

    Fantastic recipes are offered on various forums on the Web for solving the problem of unscrewing the pedal. up to the use of welding. Yes, it is possible to weld the connecting rod tightly, if it is metal, to the axle, and it really will never unscrew itself. But when the time comes for replacement, it will only be possible to remove it with the help of an angle grinder. It is much more effective and practical to use a thread lock. an anaerobic (curing without oxygen) compound that functions like glue for metal. The process is as follows:

    • We carry out disassembly of the damaged bike assembly using the tools prepared in advance.
    • The carriage axle, the inner planes of the connecting rod, the thread of a bolt or nut (in cheaper designs) should be thoroughly cleaned of grease. To do this, you must have rags and a special mixture (can be replaced with ordinary kerosene).
    • Next, we assemble the assembly, but before tightening the bolt, apply a few drops of the retainer to the thread.

    While the bolt is tightened, the composition is evenly distributed over the entire surface, gluing the elements together. As a result, the load, thanks to the retainer, is evenly distributed along the entire length of the thread, self-loosening is excluded, and reliable protection against the appearance of corrosion and rust appears.

    Important! You should be aware that bicycle pedals have different threads, designed to be self-tightening. In other words, the axle of the right pedal is unscrewed counterclockwise. Conversely, the axle of the left pedal is unscrewed clockwise.

    What to do if the pedal is unscrewed on a bicycle

    Any more or less complex technical structure tends to break. There are many reasons for this fact. defective structural elements, poor-quality assembly of this bicycle unit, wear of parts, and so on. Be that as it may, the question of what to do if the pedal is unscrewed on the bike puzzles the owner of the bike, faced with this fairly common problem. In addition to the discomfort caused by the constantly unscrewing pedal, the operation of a technically faulty bike is fraught with tragic consequences.

    Therefore, it is necessary to quickly solve this problem and use the bike without worrying about your own safety. We will figure out what should be done so that the bicycle pedal does not unscrew, we will answer a number of questions related to this topic, and also give some relevant recommendations.

    A few words about the fixator

    • the red retainer has the highest strength indicator. it will not work to turn the pedal after using it (you will have to resort to the same angle grinder);
    • the green retainer can be weak or high strength. it depends on the manufacturer;
    • retainer blue or blue. medium strength.

    There are also purple fixatives with moderate strength and purple compounds with the lowest performance on the market. To subsequently turn the pedal without applying titanic efforts, you should use a blue or blue retainer.