How to adjust the handlebars on a bike
In fact, head tube height and direction play a significant role in riding comfort and energy efficiency. So, a high handlebar is usually chosen for recreational riding, and low models. for sports purposes. both on high-speed bicycles and trial bikes.
Direction of adjustment
In what directions is the steering wheel adjusted? First of all, it is the height of the steering wheel. It determines the angle at which the cyclist’s body and his arms will be while riding. In turn, the tension of various muscle groups, the speed of their fatigue and, accordingly, the general state of the athlete’s body depend on the angle of inclination.
How to Replace Bicycle Handlebars. Flat Bars
As noted, the rudders are often raised when riding for rest and lowered to reduce wind resistance in speed runs. In addition, the low idle role is most reliable in the case of sports disciplines BMX, Trial, Downhill and the like. Actually, the handlebar height parameter is selected individually, depending on the riding style.
The zero position for adjustment is the level of the bike saddle. The handlebars are considered high if they are above the saddle, and low. lower. Of course, all such measurements are very arbitrary, and several iterations and changes are required for the height configuration to be ideal.
Threadless column is the de facto standard for modern mountain bikes (you can read more about the steering column here). The mechanism here is somewhat more complicated and heavier, and the steering wheel is attached to the pipe with the help of an additional element. the stem. With threaded mechanisms, all three of these components are one, which is the reason for less weight and greater reliability. In this case, the height is not set by the position of the pipe, but by the addition of special spacer rings on the pipe freed from removal.
Actually, the change is made as follows:
- Unscrew the anchor bolt with a hexagon (cover on the top of the pipe).
- We unscrew the pulling bolts of the stem, with which it is attached to the steering tube.
- Carefully trying to remove the steering wheel along with the stem.
- Add spacer rings to the pipe (or remove them to reduce the total length of the structure).
- Installing the takeaway back.
- We tighten the tightening bolts first, then the anchor. The main thing is not to tighten the steering wheel too much, this can damage the parts.
The direction of the stem (and therefore the handlebars) should be carefully adjusted and aligned with the front wheel, as it is very easy to move the structure during operations. To correct the direction, it is enough to slightly loosen the bolts that hold the stem, and, having set the correct direction, tighten them.
The type of threaded mount is found on specialized professional bicycles, as it has less weight compared to a threadless mount, but it is most often seen on bicycles of the lower price segment and old Soviet models.
In this case, the head tube is placed inside the column and tightened with nuts, connecting to the steering gear. Everything is simple and reliable, however, it can be a little dirty. the lower part of the pipe usually collects lubricant from the mechanism.
So, the steps to change the height of the steering wheel in steps:
- We loosen the fastening nut (it covers the steering tube at the very bottom, above the frame).
- If necessary, do the same with the head tube lock nut.
- We raise the pipe to the desired height. An extension cord may be needed to raise the bar higher than usual.
- We tighten the fastening nut first, and then the lock nut.
The deed is done, it was not so difficult to fix the steering wheel!
Next, we’ll show you how to raise or lower the steering wheel by changing the position of the steering column. However, auxiliary methods of increasing and decreasing the height are also possible:
- Sharp stem will help raise the handlebars.
- On a BMX bike, many of the handlebars are quite high on their own. the head tube increases the height of the grip point.
However, most often refer to the simple and provided on almost all bike models. Before starting it, you should pay attention to what type of steering column you have on your bike. The whole process of work depends on it.
Tilt angle and extension
In addition to the height, the rudder can be adjusted according to other parameters. This primarily applies to threadless speakers, as they are designed for modular change and fine tuning. Threaded options are almost always solid and are not adapted to adjustments additional to the height.
The angle of inclination can be easily changed using the hexagon. By loosening the stem bolts, the rudder tube can be rotated to the desired position. This is especially often required when working with raised and complex tourist rudders, since the position of the hands can be changed for each condition.
A separate issue is takeaway. Actually, in a process such as adjustment, it is a key element for threadless steering wheel assembly. Offsets are very different:
- vertical to increase the height;
- horizontal to compensate for the length of the frame;
- corner for convenient installation of additional gadgets and auxiliary accessories.
The only thing to remember is that stems come in various types and sizes and may not match the accessories you have.
Adjusting the steering wheel of a bicycle is a simple operation that allows you to dramatically increase the comfort from riding, and with your own hands, without contacting mechanics or professional friends, bring your own bike to mind. The correct handlebar height, tilt and other characteristics, no doubt, should be selected according to the rider’s own experience and comfort.
Bent rudder bar
In this situation, the steering wheel is restored with a steel rim. The diameter of the mandrel should be equal to the diameter of the rod itself, on which a special ring is put on before repair. This measure excludes the possibility of unbending the walls of the rod. A mandrel is inserted inside it, after which the rod is bent in the desired direction.
The pipe is crumpled
To eliminate this breakdown, you will need a set of steel balls. They are fixed in the middle of a cable with a length of 150 centimeters.
To eliminate the bruising of the steering wheel, a ball with a small radius is initially used. The object is placed inside the rudder hole, the end of the pipe that came out on the other side is fixed. Further, in jerks, the ball is pulled through the crumpled place. After which the algorithm of actions is repeated, only in the opposite direction.
Gradually it is required to change the size of the ball used until the pipe is completely straightened.
To eliminate this serviceability, a file is used. Otherwise, the damaged area is cut off with a hacksaw, after which a new thread is cut. When it is not possible to make a new thread, a drill is used that fits the diameter of the rod.
If the expansion bolt is damaged, the rider will need to turn it on a lathe. When there is no access to the machine, a file will do. Next, a nut is selected that fits the thread of the bolt, after which a hole is drilled to the size of the nut.
Cracked and broken steering wheel
When cracks form, an incision is initially made with a hacksaw, after which the connection is supplemented with copper and zinc solder.
To connect several parts of the handlebar, you need a beech that matches the radius of the bend itself in the broken place. You can make it from any unnecessary steering wheel or purchase a pipe.
In the case of a small bending radius, the damaged area is heated with a blowtorch, after which bending is carried out. With a large pipe diameter, heating is not performed.
How to fix this problem depends on the area of damage. If the pipe is bent near the lock, the pipe itself is fixed in a special vice so that the curved area should protrude slightly higher. Then the pipe is straightened, more often the strength of the hands is enough.
You rarely have to use a lever. In the case of using a lever, it is required to lay the skin layer between it and the curved area.
With a twisted stem, the repair method is the same. The steering wheel itself is fixed with special wooden sponges.
How to repair a steering wheel
The handlebars may be damaged after falling on the bike. In addition to the bending of the pipe, there is a risk of twisting of the protrusion, the appearance of dents. Another possible malfunction on the bicycle handlebars is damage to the fastening mechanisms.
Many inexperienced owners of two-wheeled vehicles are in a hurry to contact the service for repairing the bicycle handlebars. However, most breakdowns can be repaired by yourself at home.
Bicycle Handlebar Switch Repair
If the handlebars are dropped and damaged, there is a high risk of damage to the shifter. There are several most common breakdowns, each of which has its own technique.
If the levers are free to play, the locking nut must be tightened. It is located under the bottom cover of the switch.
If the speed is not displayed correctly, the probable cause is a breakage of the return spring. In this situation, it will need to be replaced.
If the lever is tight, it will be necessary to clean and re-lubricate the coin, loosen the fixing washer. A possible cause is a broken cable that needs to be cleaned or replaced. Also, the likely cause is a broken spring.
If the shifter does not reset gears, the reason is the wrong setting of the fixing nut or its serious contamination.
Most of the problems the rider can handle on their own. If the cyclist is not confident in his abilities, does not understand at all about the device of the steering wheel and coins, it is better to contact the repair service.
Steering wheel adjustment
Correctly raising the handlebars on a mountain bike is very important. This is especially true when it has been stored at home or in the garage for a long time. The higher the handlebars are raised, the greater the load on the muscles of the rider.
- Normal or zero is considered to be level with the bike saddle. This position is suitable for leisurely walks.
- The position below the saddle lowers the body of the person, makes the posture more streamlined, than reduces the resistance of oncoming flows.
- The position above the saddle is called high.
- Centering. The steering wheel must be perpendicular to the front wheel.
[attention type = yellow] Worth knowing! An important factor in height adjustment is the rider’s height. For people with a height difference of 20-30 cm, different heights of the steering wheel will be required. [/ Attention]
How to raise the handlebars on a mountain bike for comfort?
Mountain bike, in comparison with other types, is designed for off-road riding, therefore, the structures are made of materials of increased strength. For a convenient and comfortable movement, the athlete’s posture is important. In this regard, the question of how to raise the handlebars on a mountain bike worries everyone.
This column model is the standard on modern mountain bikes. The design is heavier and harder than threaded. The height in the threadless version is not adjusted using an axis, but due to special spacer rings, which are added or removed from the pipe freed from removal.
- unscrew the nut on the pipe cover;
- unscrew the mounting bolts that secure the steering axle;
- carefully remove the stem with the stem;
- install or remove spacer rings;
- we return the take-out to its original place;
- we tighten the fastening bolts, close and fix the cover behind them.
It is important to adjust the direction of the front wheel stem. When adjusting the height of the axis, it is easy to move.
To bring the direction to the correct position, you must:
- loosen the mounting bolts;
- pull the axle to the desired level;
- tighten the bolts.
If you are just choosing a mountain bike, keep in mind that most models provide for adjusting the height of the handlebars for each rider. To find out how to do this correctly, you need to clarify which column is on the bike.
A rare model. Consists of a cup and bearing, which are located inside the frame. Allows you to lower the steering wheel as low as possible.
A kind of semi-uninterrupted. It differs from her in the absence of a cup. Installed in a frame tube, rarely used.
It is worth paying attention to the adjustment of the saddle. When the nose of the saddle is raised over the measure, the person will fall back, when it is lowered down, he will slide. The optimal position must be selected based on the person’s physique.
A horizontal saddle position is considered to be the best option. The saddle is tilted horizontally with the nuts that secure the saddle to the frame. By loosening the fixation, the most comfortable position is selected. Then, in this form, the saddle is fixed with the help of previously loosened fasteners. [attention type = red] Important! When adjusting the saddle horizontally, it is assumed that the distance between the elbow and the fingertips should be equal to the distance from the front of the saddle to the stem. [/ Attention]
With the most insignificant skills, it is not difficult to solve the problem of tuning a bike according to your own parameters.
How to fix defects
The rooster is the bracket to which the switch is attached. This is a known weak link, because when the switch hits the ground, it is this component that will be damaged, and the frame will remain intact, which is much more important.
By the way, there are switches that are attached to the hub axle. The mechanical strength of the system is higher, but this only applies to extreme equipment.
Titanium frames are made with non-removable roosters, as the material itself is strong. Interestingly, in English it sounds like Derailleur hangar. We also have the name rooster because of the scallop at the end.
Detachable shanks are mounted on carbon and aluminum frames. This component is cast from a large carbon aluminum alloy. Durability is low.
If the rooster is bent, then it is better not to straighten it. It will crack anyway.
Roosters have different geometry. Please be careful before purchasing. On cycling trips, participants take spare roosters with them. And usually one bike is enough for two. They do not break very often.
By the way, if the rooster still broke, and you want to ride, then you can make a single speed:
- To do this, take a squeeze.
- We press out one of the pins. It doesn’t have to be a connector pin. He is thicker than the others. You must press out the pin in such a way that it does not fall out, but remains in the link. It is best to unwind to the end and check how much the pin came out.
- Now we shorten the chain to the desired size. It is better to move the rear wheel forward in advance. We measure, squeeze out the excess links completely. By the way, the old chain is replaced with a new one in the same way.
- We install the chain in the squeeze with the back side. We press until the pin clicks. You can skip this click. Be careful, otherwise the pin will go further than necessary.
- It is much more convenient to use a connecting pin, the long rod of which is fixed in the links, and the excess is removed with pliers.
- Now we move the wheel, so the chain will stretch a little.
Setting up your bike derailleurs is easy. You do not need to have special skills and knowledge for this. Follow the instructions and you will succeed!
Reasons for the deterioration of the rear derailleur:
Lack of service. Most often, when buying a bike, the derailleur works well and flawlessly, but after the season of operation, you can replace the deterioration in performance or even the chain jumping off the extreme sprockets. In 70% of cases, setting the rear derailleur helps, but sometimes this does not help either, then the cable and shirt should be replaced, as they become clogged with dirt and interfere with the smooth running of the cable in the shirt. Usually bike maintenance is done once a year, in which the switch settings are turned on.
Sometimes, to save money, they lubricate the cable with grease or any other lubricant and it turns out to improve the work for a while, but later the lubricant attracts dust to itself and the work deteriorates again, so you will have to do this procedure more often than you would like.
Deterioration of the switch itself. Everything ever breaks down and the derailleur on a bike is no exception. Most often, the parallelogram axes of the switch wear out, due to which a small backlash is formed, which does not allow the correct setting of the switch.
Derailleur sprockets are worn. Over time, the plastic sprockets wear out due to which the chain no longer holds on to them, which leads to poor operation of the derailleur. Also, the sprocket axles can wear out and the sprocket will dangle unnecessarily on the axle, which leads to poor shifting.
Curve cock or the switch itself. When you fall or hit something with the switch, the cock will most often bend (break), since it is made specially from a weaker alloy than the switch itself (to keep the more expensive part intact). The curvature does not allow the chains to stand up exactly, which reduces the efforts to adjust the crossover to zero. Read how to straighten a cock with your hands.
Cable problems. Sometimes, during installation or when dropped, the cable may bend strongly, after which the place of the bend will prevent the smooth movement of the cable in the shirt. In this case, its replacement is required.
It also happens that the cable gets loose (that’s why you should use the ends of the cables) and subsequently one of the thin threads begins to separate from the main bundle, as a result, interferes with the normal movement of the cable in the shirt. Sometimes one thread in the cable can break and also prevent it from working normally, here you can isolate it from the main bundle along the entire length of the cable. But the best option would be to replace the cable with a new one.
If a new cable was installed, then sometimes after a certain number of kilometers (about 100 km), you may notice a deterioration in switching. this is due to the fact that the cable is slightly stretched. In this case, it will be necessary to tighten the cable tension bolt a little.
Important! If at least one of the 5 problems you have, it will not be possible to adjust the switch perfectly!
How to properly adjust the rear derailleur
To independently adjust the rear derailleur on a bicycle, you just need to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions from specialists in this process. So, follow all the steps:
- Move the chain to the small sprocket with the right shifter.
- Unscrew the fixing screw and release the cable.
- Find the screw with the H mark. Use a screwdriver to adjust this screw so that the smallest star lies in the same plane with the rollers that are located in the foot (frame).
- Pull the cable by hand and fix it with the screw.
- Check the operation of the switch, and if it does not work correctly, the chain does not switch well to large stars, then you need to tighten the cable harder (either with the help of a drum or with a switch).
- Move the chain to the largest sprocket available in the cassette.
- Find the screw marked L and adjust it so that the tab (frame) and the sprocket are in the same plane. in this case, the crossover will not be able to get into the spokes of the front wheel.
To understand the process of self-adjusting the speed switch, you need to know the definition of some specific terms, otherwise it will be difficult to understand the instructions.
- Speed switch (crossover). This is a transmission element that is specifically responsible for gear shifting. If there is a rear crossover, then it also acts as a support for the tension of the bicycle chain. The crossover (back and front) can be described as follows: it is a parallelogram mechanism equipped with a powerful return spring, on which the frame is fixed. The rear derailleur has two rollers inside the frame. if the level of cable tension increases, then the frame shifts the chain to large stars, and if this cable tension decreases, then the chain is shifted towards small stars with the help of the frame. The mechanism of the front derailleur works in the same way.
- Shifter. It is designed to switch speeds by changing the tension level of the cable. Most often, the shifter is located on the handlebars, but in some models of bicycles it can also be located on the lower tube of the frame triangle. Note:shifters and speed switches have a common connection on the steering wheel (this is provided by a cable) and are covered with a jacket.
- Cassette. This is the name of the rear transmission unit, which consists of stars of different sizes (of different diameters and with a different number of teeth) and is installed on the rear hub drum. If the bike is old, then a ratchet is used instead of a drum in the rear hub.
- Cock. It is a metal part that helps maintain the integrity of the frame and rear derailleur in the event that the vehicle has been hit. The rooster is always attached to the frame, and a cross-over is already attached to this metal part. When a blow occurs, it is this very cock that breaks, and the frame and the speed switch (crossover) remain intact.
- System. This is the name of the front transmission unit, which consists of stars of different diameters and with a different number of teeth. These stars are fastened to each other and the connecting rods with special hollow bolts on the connecting rods, but you need to know that there are no hollow bolts in cheap bicycles. the stars and connecting rods are riveted to each other.
Speed selector adjustment
However, there are some peculiarities:
- First you need to adjust the position of the front derailleur relative to the frame. You need to slightly loosen the so-called adjusting screw and set the frame horizontally. This frame must be parallel to the chain.
- The next step is to set the required front derailleur height. It is recommended to set the gap between the edge of the frame and the teeth of no more than 2 mm. This indicator is largely responsible for the quality of gear shifting.
- With the front derailleur bezel correctly positioned in both planes, secure the screw.
- After that, you need to install the chain on the largest chainring at the back and the smallest at the front.
- Use the screw to release the cable. Turn until it stops, and then unscrew the so-called adjusting drum one turn.
- Now you need to set the frame in such a position relative to the chain so that the inner side of the frame is removed by 1-2 mm.
- Pull the cable slightly and fix the screw.
- Now the big star of the system needs to be installed the chain.
- Use special screw H for adjustment.
- Check the quality of the setting.
How the switches work
Using the handle and shifter, the cyclist activates the required speed. In a certain position of the handle, the cable is pulled. As a result of this tension, the frame is thrown onto larger sprockets; when the cable is loosened, it is not thrown onto small sprockets. As mentioned above, you can start setting up your bike from the rear derailleur. Procedure for adjusting the rear derailleur:
- select the second star in the front block, and the smallest in the rear one and set the switch chain on them;
- The bike’s rear derailleur system has two bolts that act as stops. One is abbreviated as H, and on the other. L. These two bolts are used to adjust the high and low gears on the sprockets. If during the adjustment process any extraneous sounds occur, you can get rid of them with the help of the latch;
- check the tension of the cable and if the tension does not correspond to the required one, use the regulator located on the shifter;
- Test the switching quality. If the switching occurs smoothly, no extraneous sounds are heard, then you did everything right.
The tools you may need are a Phillips screwdriver and possibly a 10 or 8 hex key or wrench depending on the switch. It is also very convenient to carry out work on a special bike rack, but you can also cope without it.
What to do if you can’t adjust the bike’s rear derailleur
There are several methods for solving this issue. But if the standard tuning instruction did not work, to tune the rear derailleur you need to:
- dismantle the chain, remove the cable;
- move the switch to the chain position to the smallest star;
- use adjusting bolts (this way you can tighten the cable);
- set the adjusting bolt H to the extreme position;
- move the part called the parallelogram to the big star and adjust the position of the bolt L.
The regulator is fixed with bolts. It must be set to the extreme position. After that, the chain must be displaced in this order: the front cassette is the largest star in diameter, the rear one, on the contrary, is the smallest.
What actions are required to tighten or tighten the handlebars on a Stels bike
The classic look of a bicycle handlebar
We carry out the following actions if the steering column is out of order and needs to be repaired.
- Removing the steering wheel from the fork, you can scatter small parts, immediately place them on a magnetic saucer.
- We analyze bearing problems. Bulk collect, cartridge inspect for bearing popping problem.
- When disassembling, we remember the order of the arrangement of the parts.
- Remove old grease with a rag.
- Changing deformed parts.
- Liberally lubricate all internal parts with new lubricant.
- We assemble in the reverse order.
How easy it is to pull up the handlebars on a bike?
- After the preliminary steps described above, adjust the stem height using the spacer rings. It is better not to pull out the tapered end of the stem with this type of repair. We remind you that if the stem is small. it needs to be replaced with a longer one.
- We put the steering wheel in place. You don’t need to worry if everything is not very perfect. The pinning process will fix everything.
The process of tightening the handlebars on a bicycle
What’s the most important thing about a bike ride? Comfort, of course. And such a state can only be ensured by the correct body position and a clearly selected position of the cyclist. But it all depends on the position of the steering wheel on the bike, as well as on its serviceability.
For reasons that will be described below, it becomes necessary to adjust the steering. How to tighten the handlebars on a bike? Can this process be done at home? What tools will be needed and what is the sequence of actions? This article will answer these and other questions.
List of tools needed to adjust the bicycle handlebar.
In principle, with a small problem, you can stop at prophylactic tightening of the clamps. But from a safety point of view, it is always better to play it safe and disassemble the steering column with its subsequent adjustment. If you don’t, then a big problem can overtake you at the most inopportune moment. For example, in a stream of cars or in an open field.
Before tightening the handlebars on a bike, you need to choose the right tools.
- Can’t do without a set of bicycle hexagons.
- Be sure to prepare a rag with which the old grease will be removed.
- New lubricant.
- If possible. a magnetic plate that will not allow small parts to scatter during repairs.
Why do you need to adjust the steering wheel.
There are two reasons why you should tinker with steering column adjustments, for example on a Stels bike.
- When you need to perform actions with the steering wheel on a child’s bike. A very common reason for answering the question: How to tighten the handlebars on a bicycle? During the year, the child grows and for a comfortable ride he needs to reinstall the steering wheel.
- The steering wheel is loose, especially when braking. There are atypical noises when going downhill, or the control is turning tight. All this suggests that there is a play in the steering column of the bicycle. This means that the steering parts do not perform their functions qualitatively.
Having considered the most common causes of such a problem, we focus on several recommendations for effectively solving this issue.
- The threadless steering column is also adjustable.
- If a situation arises in which it is necessary to change the height of the roll at a greater distance than provided by the existing length, then you just need to purchase a suitable stem.
- Adjustments should be made to a level that makes the ride comfortable for you. Each person has his own body, so listen to him and set the steering wheel to the height you need.
- A certain criterion may be the position at which the steering wheel and seat are on the same level. But this is all very individual.
How to properly tighten the handlebars on a bike
Such repair work does not require special theoretical knowledge or a lot of time. Using our recommendations, you can save yourself from possible problems or pull the steering wheel to the desired height.
The steering control can fly not only in a car or on a bicycle. Often, those who like to drive a scooter face problems. The risks are the same: serious damage to the vehicle, falls, injury.
How to fix the steering wheel on a scooter? First, figure out what the problem is. If there is no response from the front wheel, the steering wheel is jammed. it’s the bearings. Replace worn parts with new ones. Have you noticed a backlash? Tighten the steering column mount.
DIY steering wheel repair
Any vehicle needs MOT, scheduled repairs. And sometimes an unscheduled one may be required. A visit to a workshop is not always a must.
Do-it-yourself car steering repair, for example, can be done when it comes to restoring the coating. It will take a little money, tools. And the technology is pretty simple.
The leather steering wheel is easily rebuilt with a special compound. Liquid leather fills in imperfections and removes signs of wear. A more radical option, replacing the braid, also does not require a visit to the workshop.
Another thing is steering rack malfunctions. If the handling has noticeably deteriorated, when cornering, driving on an uneven road, you hear a knock, there is a free wheeling or jerking of the steering wheel, you should contact a specialist. They will carry out comprehensive diagnostics, identify a malfunction.
Do-it-yourself steering repair can only be done if you have the appropriate skills. Otherwise, you will have to pay more for professional repair.
How to fix a handlebar on a bicycle?
Is the ruble management of a two-wheeled transport lousy? Do not rush to go on the route in the hope that the malfunctions are insignificant. A ruined ride is a dubious pleasure, not to mention driving with an unadjusted steering wheel is downright dangerous.
What problems can a cyclist face? The two main ones are a too tight column or a large backlash. Both can lead to more serious damage, especially when driving off-road or performing stunts.
Do-it-yourself bicycle handlebar repair is quite possible. To do this, you need to understand the steering device, use a standard set of tools.
The latter includes several socket wrenches, a rubber mallet, O-rings, FSA range, etc. All this, as a rule, is in the cyclist’s repair bag.
How to fix the steering wheel yourself? Start by diagnosing, finding the problem. The express test involves making several strikes with the front wheel on a hard surface. A jammed steering wheel indicates wear or overtightening of the bearings. Replace or loosen them. If rattling is heard, the speaker is too weak. Bolts need to be tightened.
How to minimize costs?
Any repair, whether professional or independent, takes time. Also, financial costs cannot be avoided. And the more serious the problem, the more funds are required to solve it. You can delay and prevent faults in the steering column by.
The main recommendation is simple and trivial: follow the rules for operating the vehicle. Off-road crash test is fun. But is your iron horse for such trips?
Second, but not least, do not neglect maintenance. Practice shows that it costs less than a full repair. It doesn’t matter if he is independent or professional.
Maintain the components and mechanisms of the car, bicycle, scooter in optimal working condition. Then you don’t have to pay extra for spare parts.
How to choose a head size? What kind of steering column on a bicycle?
When determining the steering column, you need to know the dimensions and standards. First you need to find out what standard forks is used on the bike.
Once you have determined the fork dimensions, you can move on to examining the frame head tube and its compatibility with the column standard. Below is a table of non-integrated and semi-integrated steering wheels with cups.
And a table for determining the standard of the integrated steering columns.
1⅛ “Italian / Campagnolo Integrated Standard
Steering column types:
Threaded. the fork stem is needed with a thread at the end. An outdated type of column, now used on very cheap bicycles, sometimes on city bikes and the comfort series. The peculiarity of this type. the ability to change the height of the handlebar by simply untwisting the column and pulling the fork stem higher from the glass of the bicycle.
Threadless. the fork stem is required without thread. A modern type of bicycle headset that is used on almost all bicycles.
Bicycle steering column. Details, types and standards of steering.
The bicycle headset provides smooth and easy rotation of the fork and handlebars in the glass of the bicycle frame. Main elements of rotation. these are bearings. Steering columns can be of different designs and types.
Installing and adjusting the steering wheel assembly.
Before installing the column, the frame must be cut off and cleaned of dirt, dust and seizure marks. The steering cups are pressed into the glass with a special press. It is important when pressing in to ensure that the cups are installed parallel to the head tube. So it is highly discouraged to use a hammer or other percussion instrument, there is a great chance that the cups are not installed correctly, the head tube may crack.
Next, assemble the rest of the parts. insert the plug, put the lubricated bearings into the cups, cover them with rings and anthers, pull off the whole mechanism by screwing the bolt into the anchor, which is installed in the fork.
Threaded columns are adjusted by tightening the upper flare nut. For threadless steering wheels, we tighten the upper bolt on the anchor cover, having previously unscrewed the bolts on the stem.
If the steering wheel is adjusted correctly, there is no play in this unit, and the steering wheel rotates smoothly, without squeaks and stutters.
Threadless steering wheels are of the following varieties:
Classic non-integrated speaker (Aheadset or Threadless). one of the most common varieties, widely used on different types of bicycles. Consists of lower and upper cups with bearing groove. The bearings are outside the head tube. The cups are pressed from below and from above into the head tube, then the bearings are wetted, covered with anthers from dirt, along the edges of the ring. The whole structure is connected with an anchor inside the stem and an anchor cover with a tightening bolt.
Semi-integrated steering column (Zero Stack). the main difference from the non-integrated column is that the bearings are inside the head tube of the frame, and only the ring and the boot remain outside. The rest of the assembly and fixation assembly are similar. It has good dust protection and reliable construction, and the Zero Stack is easy to assemble and maintain. Semi-integrated columns can use both ball and industrial bearings.
Integrated steering column (Integrated System). this type of head has no cups. The bearings are pressed into the head tube, which has already been machined for them. This requires compatibility of the frame with bearings. The integrated column uses only industrial bearings.
There are also manufacturers’ own developments:
Fix loose steering. how to tighten the head stem on a bike
Campagnolo Hiddenset. Campagnolo standard requiring a specially treated head tube. Modification of the semi-integrated headset using tapered cup bearings.
Perdido. semi-integrated steering column with a special bearing size and cups that are recessed deeper into the frame.
The Columbus headset is a variation of the threadless Aheadset with its own bearing sizes. The head tube does not have any milled seats inside, the bearings are located outside the frame, in the outer cups.
Steering column maintenance and lubrication.
The main enemy of the longevity of the steering assembly is backlash. It can occur when loosening bolts, loosening threaded connections, destruction of a bearing. Cycling with play in the headset will cause cups to wear out and destroy bearings.
You should also pay attention to crunches, creaks and lack of smoothness of the steering wheel. These are symptoms of lack of lubrication, bearing destruction, or dirt and sand getting into the middle of the head.
Integrated columns on industrial bearings require the least maintenance and lubrication. Due to the minimum number of parts and their reliability, the lubrication change frequency can be up to 3-4 seasons. Under the condition of average operating conditions and the use of high-quality lubricants.
The rest of the steering wheels use different types of bearings, which determines their service life and the frequency of maintenance. Bulk, cage and needle bearings are less reliable than industrial bearings. Use a quality synthetic base grease to extend the life of your parts.
Recommended maintenance intervals for non-integrated and semi-integrated steering columns:
- When actively using the bike in medium to heavy conditions. Once a year
- For normal use of the bike in average conditions. Once every two years
- If there is any backlash, difficulty in rotation, crunches and squeaks, contact the workshop to fix the problem.
Also, the steering columns can be selected in the “Steering Columns” section on our website.
Construction, installation and adjustment of a road bike
Consider assembling and adjusting road bike assemblies. Its general view is shown in Fig. one.
Steering wheel. Dismantling the bike begins with the handlebars. To do this, unscrew the tightening bolt and hit it with a hammer, placing a drift or a wooden spacer. The spacer cone will come out of the rod tube, and the steering wheel will easily turn. Then, with your knees firmly on the front wheel, pull the handles and remove the handlebars from the fork shaft. If it cannot be removed, loosen the tightening bolt even further. In the stem, the gaskets or the tightening bolt itself may wear out. They need to be fixed or replaced with new ones, then the steering wheel will not turn.
|Fig. 2. Removing the steering wheel||Fig. 3. Steering device|
|Fig. 4. Steering column adjustment diagram|
Steering column adjustment. A bearing must be put on the front fork rod and inserted into the head tube of the frame. Then put on the second bearing, screw on the upper cone. Put on the brake bracket 2 (or the front rack bracket) and screw on the locknut 1. The swinging of the fork in the bearings is completely unacceptable, especially when driving on a bad road. To eliminate rolling, the locknut 1 should be unscrewed by two or three turns, tighten the cone 3 with a slight weakening in the bearings, taking into account that when the locknut is finally tightened, the cone will be pressed against the bearing. To determine if the steering column is correctly adjusted, raise the front of the bike and tilt to one side, while the fork and wheel should rotate slightly.
|Fig. 5. Deepening the notches of the saddle lock|
Saddle. In order to remove the saddle, you need to unscrew the tightening bolt, and then, holding the rear wheel with your knees, rotate the saddle and remove it from the seat tube. The saddle should not be disassembled further if it is firmly fixed in the lock. If it sways back and forth (nuts are poorly tightened), then tighten the lock nuts. It happens that the notch on the lock washers is erased. In this case, the old notches are cut deeper with a file, the lock is assembled and the nuts are firmly tightened.
Installing and securing the front shield. The frame must be turned over and placed on a flat surface, after securing the handlebar and saddle. Install the shield between the front fork legs so that the hole in the shield bracket coincides with the hole in the fork column. Insert the front brake bolt together with the brake, put a washer on it, screw on the nut and tighten. Fasten the shield supports with screws on the ends of the fork.
Installing and securing the back plate. The guard must be installed in the chain fork of the frame so that its end with an oblong hole is opposite the lower bridge of the chain fork, and the square is opposite the upper bridge. Insert the rear brake bolt into the holes of the upper bridge and the square, and put a washer together with the brake, screw on the nut and tighten. Using screws, washers and nuts, fasten the shield to the lower bridge, the props. to the ends of the frame.