How to fix a chain on a speed bike

How to tension and adjust the chain on a bike

Today we will help you figure out what problems can arise with a bicycle chain and how to solve them. Mikhail Kucheev, one of the leaders of the Sam Sebe Bicycle project, will tell you about everything in detail.

During the trip, you may experience the following with the chain

The chain flew

Let’s see why the chain flies. There are two options: either you have a bent sprocket on the system (the system is a front set of sprockets), or the speeds are poorly adjusted.

chain, speed, bike

If you have a bent star on the system, in this case you can continue moving simply by switching to a different speed at which the star is not bent. But if you use all the speeds while driving, then in the future you will have to replace the bent star. If the system is collapsible, you will only be able to replace one damaged star. If the system is non-separable, you will have to change the entire system along with the connecting rod.

If everything is in order with the connecting rods (what is a connecting rod?), Then your speeds are poorly set. On each of the derailleurs, both front and rear, there are adjusting bolts that prevent the chain from going over extreme speeds. If they are incorrectly adjusted, then the chain will fly off. If the chain falls off the largest sprocket, then you need to screw in a bolt with an L index, which means low. the lightest gear.

It must be screwed in until the stars on the switch are parallel to the large star. The same from the reverse side: if your chain flies from the smallest sprocket, you need to screw in a bolt with the index H (high).

Screw it in until the switch is parallel to the seventh speed.

If at the front the chain falls from the small chain to the frame, then tighten the bolt low.

To properly adjust the bolt labeled low, you need to set the lightest speed on the bike and screw it until there is a gap of 1 mm between the inner derailleur frame and the chain.

If the chain falls from a large sprocket to the connecting rod, then screw in the high bolt.

To properly adjust the high bolt, set the bike to the fastest speed and tighten it until there is a 1 mm gap between the chain and the outer derailleur frame.

These were the most common reasons for chain failure. Now let’s talk about her breakup.

How To Fix Bike Chain Skipping/Slipping/Jumping Gears

The chain broke

The most common cause of chain breaks is when shifting gears under load, such as when driving uphill. If a chain link breaks, it can either rivet or break. If the link is riveted, you can try riveting it back. You will need a chain puller to do this, so it’s best to always carry it with you. If the link is broken, it is necessary to remove it and the adjacent link. too, and rivet the chain using the same puller.

Putting the chain back on is easy. To do this, pull back the rear derailleur while loosening the chain and place it on the front sprocket.

Today you learned why the chain can fly off and break, as well as how to solve these two problems with your own hands.

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Adjust the link just installed.

Once the pin is in place, the attached link will not bend well. Move the link back and forth (see photo) until it bends well so that it can easily pass around the gears.

Look at your hands. now you can feel like a real bike mechanic.

How To Fix A Dropped Chain | What To Do If Your Chain Comes Off While Cycling

Is it worth repairing a bike chain on the road at all??

It is best not to repair the chain on the road. Repairing a chain is one of the dirtiest jobs. If you are wearing new clothes, then after repairing the chain, you can most likely say goodbye to it. Probably the best solution would be to call a taxi or attach your bike to the bike lock and go home by public transport. you will return later in your old clothes and calmly repair the chain.

Disconnecting a chain with and without a chain installer.

To start pushing the pin out of the chain, turn the handle on the chain installer (see photo). Try to align the axle on the chain mounting tool with the pin on the chain (sometimes it slips a little).

Do not push the pin all the way in. push it in just enough to disconnect the circuit (see photo). The remaining piece of pin must be left in the chain so that it can be easily pushed through later.

If you do not have a tool to install the chain, then you will have to find a piece of wood and drill a small hole in it. Place the pin to be removed over the drilled hole. Find a small mounting screw about the same size as the pin and use it as a stud. Hit it with a hammer to knock the pin out of the chain to the required distance. Beat him very carefully so as not to knock him completely out of the chain.

Joining links.

Put it back on the sprockets before connecting both ends of the chain. It will be great if your friend can help you hold the two ends of the chain in position while you connect them.

Using the chain fitting tool, insert the pin back into place (see photo). This is the hardest part of the job, as it is necessary to keep the tool on the same line as the pin. If you are just installing a new chain, then most chains come with a special link (lock) that allows you to remove and install the chain without having to remove the pins.

What you need to repair your bike chain.

To repair a damaged bike chain, you only need a chain fitting tool. It is compact and usually found in many multi-functional bike repair tools. Perhaps a similar tool is included in one of your multifunctional tools and you simply did not know what it was for.!

At home, repairing a bicycle chain can be done with a hammer and pliers, but you can’t take them with you on the road. On a trip, the chain will only have to be repaired with a lightweight chain mounting tool.

The chain breaks as usual?

often than not, the chain breaks when you pedal at full power and simultaneously shift the gear on the front derailleur. Other causes of chain breakdowns are very rare, one in a million at best. You only get a chance to meet them if you bike a lot. For example, a nail flew out from under my front wheel, hitting the chain and hitting the sprocket. Who would have thought that this could happen?

How to start repairing a bicycle chain.

Let’s say you’ve changed into your old clothes and are ready to get to work. To make it easier for you to inspect the chain. turn the bike over.

Inspect the two broken ends of the chain: one end (and possibly two) is damaged and needs to be replaced. You will have to remove two chain links from the damaged end of the chain. Why do you need to remove two links, and not one. you might ask? Since the chain consists of two types of links, if you remove only one link, you will not be able to connect two links of the same type.

Where the chain needs to be opened, place it in the groove of the chain mounting tool (see photo). The same procedure applies when repairing a worn chain.

How to repair a bicycle chain

With proper preparation, repairing a bicycle chain on the road is as easy as sticking a bicycle tube.

How to determine the need for chain tension?

If we talk about ordinary bicycles that do not have a speed switch, then everything is extremely simple. just pull the chain with your finger until it stops and approximately measure the distance of its displacement from the start to the end point. It should be about 10-15 mm. If this figure is exceeded, then the chain requires tension, but if the offset is 5 mm or less, then it is better to loosen it.

In the case of bicycles that have a gear shifting system (several front and rear sprockets), there are two ways to determine the need for chain tension.

We switch the speeds so that the chain is on the largest sprocket, both in the back and in the front. We take the chain in the area under the chainring and pull it towards the front wheel until the rear derailleur reaches the stop. If at the same time only 2 links remain in a weakened state, then the chain has optimal tension. Otherwise, its length needs to be adjusted.

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We set the speeds so that the chain is pulled over the largest sprocket in the front and the smallest in the back. In this position, the idler roller and tensioner roller should form a straight line perpendicular to the floor. If the offset goes to the left, the chain should be shortened.

Now let’s figure out how to adjust the chain length depending on the type of bike.

How to tension a chain on a regular bike?

The first and easiest way is to offset the wheel. It is implemented in the following way:

  • We turn the bike over and put it on the handlebar and harness. You can also use dedicated stands for repair and maintenance.
  • We loosen the bolts or eccentrics with which the wheel is attached to the frame itself.
  • We begin to move the wheel along the landing grooves. If the chain should be loosened, then the wheel should be moved towards the front wheel, if pulled, then vice versa.

After completing the adjustment, it is important to check that the axis of the rear hub is perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bike itself, only in this case the wheel can be fixed.

The second way is to remove the extra links. This can be done by the old-fashioned method, knocking out the link roller with some thin elongated object, but this approach requires a lot of time and effort, and there is a high probability of simply damaging the chain.

It is much easier to purchase a special squeeze that will allow you to remove an extra link in a matter of seconds, minimizing the likelihood of damage to the chain. How to do it?

  • We take one link of the chain, put it in a special groove on the squeeze and gently squeeze it with a lock.
  • We twist the arrow knob clockwise, slowly squeezing the roller out of the plates. IMPORTANT! The roller should not be squeezed out completely, because then it will be extremely problematic to return it to its place.
  • After parsing one link, we disassemble the chain and determine the number of extra links, removing them in the same way as described above.
  • We connect the ends of the chain and press the roller using a squeeze.

I would like to note right away that this procedure requires a certain skill and for the first time may require a lot of time and effort.

When chain adjustments no longer help?

Chain stretching cannot always be eliminated by the trivial removal of unnecessary links. The thing is that under the constant influence of high loads, the links simply begin to deform and stretch.

So, the normal link length is considered to be 11.9-12 mm. If this figure reaches 12.1-12.6 mm, then the chain begins to lick the cassettes, and with a length of 12.9 mm, the chain will have to be changed along with the stars. You can measure the length of the link using the lips to measure the internal dimensions of the caliper.

How to tighten a chain on a bicycle?

Bicycle maintenance is an integral part of its operation, no matter how carefully and carefully you treat your vehicle. This is due to the natural wear and tear of the parts. And today we will talk about how to tighten the chain on a bicycle, because it is this spare part that requires special attention and, with intensive riding, often causes problems.

How to tighten a chain on a bike at speeds?

Speed ​​bikes have a more complex chain tensioning principle. There it is regulated by a special spring, which is located on the rear carriage. Accordingly, adjusting the chain tension by simply moving the rear wheel will not work.

The only available way to tighten the chain on a speed bike is by removing the chain links. This procedure is carried out in the same way as described in the paragraph about ordinary. You will also need a special squeeze and a few minutes of time.

Incorrect chain tension can cause problematic gear changes, slippage and faster wear on the undercarriage, so it is imperative to monitor its condition, tighten up and replace it regularly.

We hope that in this article you have found useful information for yourself on how to tighten the chain on a bicycle, and you can put it into practice if necessary.

Reasons for the appearance of scrolls

Most likely, the scrolling on the bike was the result of the wear of one of the parts. It remains only to understand which one. The most vulnerable points of the pedal mechanism are:

  • chain;
  • rear sprocket;
  • rear wheel hub and parts thereof.

What to do if suspicion falls on one of the listed elements? As a rule, these details hint to us in advance that it is time to take care of them. An attentive cyclist anticipates a problem and does not lead to a complete breakdown. If the cranking nevertheless begins unexpectedly, a careful examination of not only the pedal, but also the entire driving mechanism will help to remove it. When examining your bike, you should pay special attention to:

  • rear hub;
  • front wheel sprockets;
  • cassette or ratchet;
  • chain.

Scrolled on a racing bike

Cranking on a speed bike is often caused by a rear wheel defect found on many modern models. It can be more difficult to fix the working mechanism on a high-speed bike than on a simple bike, since the chains on the first are more whimsical than on the second, and require work with a large number of links.

Scrolling on a road bike

To find out why the pedals on a road bike spin, you need to pay attention to the features of its structure. Road bikes and any foot-operated bicycles are particularly prone to bushing wear. Over time, its components stop clinging to each other, and the mechanism of operation goes wrong. The wheel rotates at idle, as the pedal scrolls the stars, not the wheels.

Mountain bike pedaling

Mountain bike scrolling can also be caused by erasing complex hub parts or chain damage.

They are associated with driving over rough terrain at high speed. The risk of occurring deformations obliges the owners of such bikes to carefully inspect their vehicle every time after a bike ride.

How to remove scrolls on a bike

Sooner or later, every cyclist is faced with such a problem as scrolling the bicycle pedals. In a similar way, a failure occurs in the operation of the so-called crank-pedal group, which is responsible for the normal movement of the bike. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to determine which of the parts has become unusable.

Eliminate scrolling on a bike

Troubleshooting can be broken down into several steps. The rear wheel must be removed first in order to be able to dismantle the transmission. The chain and the entire chain mechanism must be cleaned and lubricated. Especially carefully it is necessary to process the gaps between the rollers and the sprockets. Then you need to replace the sprocket and the chain itself. You cannot limit yourself to one thing, because the mechanism works as an integral system: removing a minor malfunction does not mean that it has solved the problem. The repair itself comes down, in fact, to finding and then replacing the damaged part. When the wheel is removed, it is necessary to sort out the bushing along the spokes, inspect each separately, check whether the roller is worn out and whether the cone axis is intact.

It is not necessary to grind the taper shaft in a special workshop, even if you are assured that this will solve the problem. Wear is wear: the part must be replaced with a new one.

Prevention of pedal scrolls

Keeping clean, as in the human world, is very helpful in maintaining cycling health. Why does scrolling occur even after replacing worn parts? Due to lack of maintenance of the bike and its parts.

In order to clean the bike cassette, it must be removed. With a pre-prepared brush with flat bristles, you need to walk along all the links of the chain. Then. wipe all the teeth and washers with a napkin soaked in kerosene. (Never use gasoline: it can cause rust!)

And, of course, the main culprit of bicycle scrolling. the chain. requires special attention. There are several mandatory procedures for caring for it: 1. Flushing. It is advisable to rinse the chain and clean the links from adhering dirt after each ride, especially in autumn and spring. You can pre-stock kerosene, white spirit, or any other cleaning agent. Before applying the cleaner, the chain must be cleaned of dirt by thoroughly rinsing it in a separate container.

Lubrication. A clean chain must be thoroughly lubricated. You can use for this both liquid or thick lubricants in oil cans, and aerosol products.

It is better to choose a more expensive and better quality lubricant. Ideal, for example, Litol 24 thick in composition, which does not allow water and bulky dirt spots to pass through.

With timely care of the chain and other parts of the driving bicycle mechanism, there is a chance that the pedals will begin to spin only after many years of use of each part.

The chain on the bike jumps off. Why is it dangerous?

If the chain comes loose on the bike, it can lead to a number of dangers. To begin with, if you are still using an old type bicycle with a brake sleeve, then if you lose the chain, you are left without brakes. The chain bounces off at inopportune moments when there is a lot of shaking or a lot of acceleration. As a rule, these are the moments when the cyclist flies downhill. Accordingly, the loss of brakes is very undesirable here.

If the chain on a bicycle has jumped off at speeds, then there is no such danger as on the old road with brake bushings. You have hand brakes that have nothing to do with the chain drive. But there is another danger. Without the presence of a hitch with the rear wheel due to the slipping off the chain, the drive front sprocket with connecting rods begins to rotate freely with the carriage. This freedom makes movement very difficult. An inexperienced cyclist may lose balance or a foot may fall off the pedal. Returning to the fact that the chain most often flies under heavy traffic and high speeds, such a loss of the pedal will cause serious injury. In this case, it is much easier to solve the situation if you have clipless pedals or good spike treadlers installed.

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How To Replace A Bicycle Chain

Another unpleasant case is extreme skiing. If you are going through a difficult section or landing after an extended flight, a loose chain can cause a very serious fall. Here the legs can also come off, since there will be no predictable load on the pedals, and the carriage can turn over several times from surprise. All this is dangerous.

Well, two cases that are dangerous for all types of riding are the physical loss of the chain somewhere on the track or the falling off the chain in the spokes or other moving parts of the bike. In the first case, you will need to go looking for a chain, because you won’t be able to go without it, and in the second one you can make a juicy cross-wheel.

The chain came off. What to do about it?

The drive chain is one of the most important parts of a modern bicycle. The chain drive has been used on all types of bicycles for a long time and has proven itself from the very best side. There were bicycles with belt drives and even with a cardan shaft, but it was the chain that received the most widespread use.

A bicycle chain has a number of advantages and disadvantages. And even if there are much fewer disadvantages than advantages, there is one very significant drawback. Often from a cyclist who is digging with a bicycle overturned in the middle of the road, you can hear. a yokarny bogeyman, the chain has come off. This is a real attack that sooner or later any bike user will face and must be fought against.

Why does the chain jump off on a bicycle?

The bicycle chain often jumps off completely at an unpredictable moment, however, some dynamics of this process is available for analysis.

  • On all types of bicycles, the chain will jump off when it is too long. In theory, the bike should be fitted with the correct chain length by default. But during operation, the chain is stretched. Such a chain is no longer able to hold its position.
  • On high-speed bikes, the chain jumps off when there is a problem in setting the derailleurs or the derailleur foot is so worn out that it is not able to tension the chain with the required force. If the setting is out of order, then the switch sometimes tries to throw the chain to the next gear, and if at this moment the chain does not lie completely on the sprocket, then it will come off.
  • Incorrectly constructed system. If you have chosen the wrong components, then such problems are quite predictable. For example, a carriage with a too long axle was bought and as a result, the system protrudes very far from the frame. In this case, the so-called chainline is broken. Due to this skew, the chain flies and wears out quickly.
  • Extreme skiing and untuned shifting system. If you suddenly feel like jumping on a bike, and you haven’t done anything with the transmission, then be prepared to periodically lose the chain on the go. To properly adapt the switching system, you need to add a chain damper to it, remove two of the three stars on the system and shorten the chain.
  • High wear of mechanisms and ingress of dirt / branches. This point is suppressed with point 1 and point 2, but differs in that in this case we are talking about excessive wear. In addition, we will also remember about excessive pollution. the cassette can collect so much debris, grass and branches that the chains will simply have nothing to catch on. Often this point is determined by the slippage of the chain on the cassette. The torsional force is so high that a worn tooth is no longer able to engage the chain roller so tightly.

How to fix a loose chain

In all cases, an individual approach is required. Most often, you need:

  • Assess chain wear and replace chain and transmission if high wear occurs. Please note that it is better to change the entire set at once. system or stars, chain and cassette.
  • Clean the entire system of dirt / debris and grease the chain. Eliminate link jam.
  • Tighten the chain to the required tension. Shorten the chain by a couple of links.
  • Align the chain-line, make sure the chain is of the correct length and check that the system can interoperate with the short / long foot.
  • Check the accuracy of the switch setting.
  • Install the chain guide for intensive riding.

The most dangerous combination is a chain jam. The chain falls into the space between the rods / stars and the frame and does not come out from there under no pretext. The application of force only causes damage to the frame. In such cases, you need to very carefully look for the position in which the chain falls into the gap. Such a situation will surely come across. Do not pull the chain with great force. the chain itself will deteriorate and you can cause irreparable damage to the bike frame. There were times when a cyclist pulled the chain so hard that he literally sawed his frame. And the slightest damage leads to the formation of a crack.

Note that occasional chain bouncing is common on a bicycle. This is a regular mode of operation, if you will. But these cases must be precisely that very rare. If the chain jumps off twice per trip, then this is already an unacceptable boundary. In addition, a standard bike should ride over spines, rocks, and slide down slides on primers while keeping the chain in place. High to Medium Shaking / Movement is the standard setting. If there are constant deviations, then it’s time to start repairing.

Cycling on sidewalks and footpaths:

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What to do if the bike chain breaks?

Modern bike chains may not be very common, but they still break. Usually, when the chain breaks, a pair of links at the break point bend and fail. And, as a rule, this happens at the most inopportune moment, for example, at intersections or at competitions, or on a beautiful day when you went for a bike ride with friends. The cause of failure can be anything from a failed shift under load, which leads to the disconnection of the outer chain plate from the pin, high wear, or even improper installation and adjustment of the bike.

What to do (tips from the masters of the bicycle genre)

It is best to replace them with new links from the same type of chain. Therefore, on a long trip, you should grab a piece of chain from 8 to 10 links. 2. Carry a chain lock with you. The lock consists of two halves of a link that are connected to each other. No additional tools are required to install the lock.

If you do not have a lock and a spare piece of chain with you, you can shorten the chain by removing a couple of damaged links. True, this requires a tool called squeeze. Always have a Rem kit in your backpack! Please note that after shortening the chain, some sprocket combinations may not work.

We offer step-by-step instructions to fix a circuit malfunction on your own in a few minutes using the correct tool. squeezing the chain (it must be in your backpack), but be careful, because the restored connection in the chain will not be as strong as when replacing the link with a new one and the chain may break again.

So: 1. Remove the broken chain from the bike. 2. Check other links that might be bent or twisted and cause jump under load. 3. As a result, you can see that at the edges of the chain, different combinations of halves of links such as dad (inner link) and mom (link with outer plates) are possible, depending on how the chain broke.

In order to connect the chain back without spare links, you need to use a squeeze and connect the inner link (dad) at one end and the outer link (mom) at the other.

Some chain pushers are equipped with two chain link slots. The inner section only serves to repair the rigid links that may appear after the chain is repaired, but you will only need to use the outer slot for inserting and removing links at all times. But maybe yours only has one slot. Some puckers have a screw adjustment to accommodate different link widths. If you have one, just screw the trim all the way in after you install the link in the squeeze slot. This way, the link will be held in place while you work with it. When removing damaged links, keep in mind that the chain length should remain as close to its optimal length as possible.

To leave an inner link (male) at the end, simply remove the entire pin of the broken link from its hole. The outer plates will fall out, leaving only the inner link. Please note that the inner link roller must remain in place (the round roller between the inner link plates), it must not fall out, although it sometimes tries to do so. 7. Prepare the opposite end of the chain with the outer link (mother). This part is more difficult. Place the chain link first in the outer section of the chain link and make sure the chain link pin is exactly aligned with the link pin. Start pressing on the pin, but the key is to stop before it is completely out of the outer plate. The goal is to squeeze it outward enough to remove the broken link, and if done correctly, you can pull it out by slightly bending the outer plate. When you pull out the broken link, you will see that the extruded pin is protruding into the link from the outer plate by about a millimeter. If you accidentally squeeze a pin out of a link entirely, you might be better off doing it all over again on the next section of the chain. it is not recommended to press the pin into the link if you squeezed it out completely. Also, leaving the pin in the outer link plate to stick out a millimeter inward makes it much easier to connect the chain when you put it on the bike. when you connect the inner link at one end and the outer link at the other, they will hook slightly and you do not need to hold the chain.

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Chain ends with a new outer link (female) on the left and the other end with an inner link (male) on the right.

You are now ready to install the chain on your bike. To reduce chain tension (this will make it very easy to install), move your rear derailleur to the smallest sprocket and do the same on the front (if you have one). Stretch the chain as it should be in normal condition, but make sure that the pin, which is at one end of the chain and almost completely sticks out of it, sticks out to the outside of the bike, so it will be easier to work with it.

The chain pin protrudes outward and away from the bike and is ready to install.

Connect the two ends of the chain together. Once you have pulled the pin on the end of the chain with the outer link as needed, you should easily interlock the ends of the chain and do not need to be held back from disconnecting. If this is not the case, you will have to keep the chain from disconnecting when you press the pin into the link with a squeeze. You can use this method: take a 4-inch piece of an old knitting needle, bend it in the shape of the letter C and use it to hook your chain. Before you press the pin into the chain, make sure the holes in the link to be connected and the pin are aligned in a straight line. If the pin is not in line with the holes in the outer link plates, you will simply break the link, or the pin will not fall into the hole and on the opposite plate, as a result, the chain will be unreliable and unsafe to ride. When you are sure everything is in alignment, start pushing down on the pin until it protrudes the same amount on both sides of the outer link. Depending on your chain, the ends of the pin may be very close to the edges of the outer plates. It is important to make sure that the pin extends the same amount at both ends. Carefully check the new connection for defects in the chain, for example, twisting of the plates during installation.

Using a squeeze to set the pin. You can work out where the links are rigidly connected with your hands.

There is a high probability that the chain will not rotate at the new junction. This is because the outer plates are pressed against each other with a squeeze when you press the pin into it. You can easily find such a rigid link connection when you pedal back and watch the chain on the idler roller. 11. There are two ways to correct this situation: by hand or by squeezing. Grasp the chain with one hand on one side of the clamped link and with the other hand on the other side, with your thumbs in place of the rigid connection. Bend the chain lightly from side to side directly at the rigid connection. One or two attempts are enough for the chain to rotate freely in the place of the new connection. Another method of correcting flexion is to use the internal squeeze slot to slightly nudge the pin at the rigid connection. This method is also very effective.

Attention! Before you continue riding, please note that you have removed the links from the chain and it is now shorter than it was. If the chain was originally the right length, now it may be too short, especially on large stars. Be very careful or you will need to replace the rear derailleur and cock.!

Causes of malfunction

The problem happens when the load on the bike‘s drivetrain is at its maximum. when going uphill or when changing gears. This happens for several reasons:

  • malfunction of the speed switch or improper use of it;
  • wear of the stars on the cassette or pedals;
  • stretching the chain;
  • complex wear of the gearshift system.

Let’s take a closer look at the problem of chain slipping on a bicycle.

If the chain bounces on the bike at speeds, the first step is to make sure the derailleur is adjusted correctly. The bike is turned over and put on the saddle, then you should spin the pedals with your hands and switch the speeds. [attention type = red] Tip! It is required to pay attention to how the chain jumps between the stars, whether it falls into the gaps between them. [/ Attention] If the problem occurs on a single speed, the problem should be looked for in the wear of the parts. Most often, the entire transmission wears out at once. in cases where its elements have not been replaced separately. Wear rate increases if parts are contaminated with abrasive materials such as sand.

You can determine why the chain slips on a bicycle under load by assessing the state of the chain. The wear rate is based on the increase in its length. Initially, it varies depending on the bike type and number of links, but the procedure for determining wear is the same, since the length of one link is always 12.7 mm, or 1/2 inch. You can measure a separate area with a ruler. 20 links are enough. In good condition, its length should be 2012.7 = 254 mm. If it is 3-4 mm larger, then the degree of wear is serious enough to require replacement.

Stretching the links accelerates the wear of the small stars, which makes the gear shifting worse, especially when going from large to small stars. And over time, the cassette may fail altogether, because of which it will have to be removed and replaced. You can assess the degree of wear of the sprocket teeth by eye by comparing the used part with a new one having a similar diameter.

Many people do not consider their gear shifting technique when thinking about why the chain slips on a speed bike. misuse of the derailleur can also cause the transmission to wear quickly. You need to know a few rules:

  • The numbering of stars at the pedals goes from lower to higher, in the cassette. vice versa.
  • It is necessary to include a smaller gear in the front and a larger one in the back and vice versa, that is, combine the stars of different sizes in order to avoid skewing.
  • There are several rear sprockets for each chainring.

[attention type = red] Important! Correct use of the bike is a guarantee of slow wear of the transmission, attrition of the stars. [/ Attention]

Debugg

So what to do if a chain slips on a bike under load? The easiest option is to completely replace the transmission. However, it is not necessary to do this, you can determine the most worn out part of the system and repair only it.

You only have to change stars in extreme cases. However, this is a temporary solution. Eliminate the cause of the malfunction. replace, shorten the chain or adjust the switch.

Depending on the degree of wear of the part, the following repair methods are used:

  • complete replacement. in this case, breakthroughs can happen even more often at first, but over time, the parts will rub in, and the problem will be eliminated (while you do not forget to lubricate the unit so that it does not work for wear);
  • shortening. several links are removed using a squeeze;
  • the use of a damper. a device that increases the tension of the chain using rollers, preventing it from jumping off the sprockets.

[attention type = red] Important! If there is no strong wear, but the chain still slips on the bike, you need to set the tensioner in the correct position and adjust the tension of the cables. [/ Attention]

What to do if the bike chain slips under load?

During high-speed riding, racing on rough terrain and even on a relaxed bike ride, the moving parts of the bicycle are subject to high mechanical stress. They actively rub against each other, which over time affects the state of the metal, even with regular cleaning and lubrication of the bike. The wear of the drivetrain parts causes the chain to slip on the bike under load. Every cyclist faces this, and everyone should know what to do in such a situation.

The most difficult part of troubleshooting will be working with the chain. if it does not have a special lock, it may even be a problem to remove it from the bike. The video explains in detail how to separate and remove excess links.