How to fix a bike seat

Final stage

A bicycle saddle can be soft padded or solid structure. If your model belongs to the first category, then you will have to spend a little more time on restoring the saddle.

The filler also wears out with active use. Therefore, you will need to remove the old packing from the base using the tools at hand. The procedure is quite simple and will not cause any particular difficulties.

bike, seat

To replace the filler, select the appropriate foam rubber. It must be glued to a piece of soft material and leatherette. Then gently wrap the base with foam rubber, smooth it and achieve a snug fit to the frame.

Installing the upholstery is a more complicated process. You may need a second person to assist with the harness wrap. Initially, the upholstery must be stretched across the axis of the saddle, and then along.

For convenient adjustment and fixation, it is recommended to prepare a drawstring, pass a lace through it. Such a solution makes it easier to attach the upholstery, you can adapt it to the seat as much as possible.

First step: working with the saddle

Re-tightening a bicycle saddle is a complex and time-consuming process. Initially, you will need to remove the seat. Peel off the upholstery gently and set it aside.

The old upholstery must be cut into its component parts. Do this work carefully so as not to damage the elements and, based on them, create a full-fledged pattern in the future. For this operation, it is better to use a special tool, which is called a ripper.

It is much more comfortable to work with such equipment. In addition, the likelihood of defects when cutting the material is reduced, the accuracy is increased.

Stitching

After marking out the parts and allowances, take scissors and cut the elements from the main piece of material. Tailoring needles are required for their subsequent fastening. It is recommended to insert them perpendicularly and not parallel to the seams. With this arrangement of needles, you do not have to pull them out when stitching parts.

Connecting elements is an important process. You need to understand that you will not have another chance, the work must be done well the first time. If you do not have special skills in sewing, then it is better to practice on unnecessary scraps of material.

The second life of a bicycle saddle: repair and fit

A bicycle saddle is in many ways an individual item. It is selected taking into account the anatomical parameters of the owner and the characteristics of the ride. But any harness tends to wear out over time, it is damaged during active use.

What to do in such a situation? Do you really have to replace the saddle and spend a huge amount of time choosing a different model? Most of the seats can be restored. To do this, you will need to select the appropriate materials, tools, be patient and carefully perform all the necessary work.

Do-it-yourself saddle padding or contacting professionals?

When performing repairs, the owner has two options:

  • Carry out all the work yourself.
  • Contact professionals.

How difficult is it to repair the saddle yourself? It all depends on your practical skills and experience with different tools. It happens that in a person everything falls out of hand, even the simplest manipulations turn into a real test. In this case, it is unlikely that he will be able to achieve a good result when performing repairs.

When is the best time to turn to professionals?

  • You have no experience with various tools at all.
  • You are not sure if you can handle the repair.
  • Your level of accuracy is poor, there are people like that too.
  • You do not have the necessary materials and tools.
  • Don’t want to waste time and effort repairing your saddle.

Experts are ready to take on the procedure for the restoration of the saddle. Naturally, they will have to pay extra for all the necessary work. Sometimes such a decision is completely justified, and it is easier to turn to professionals to be sure of an excellent result.

Pattern

It is recommended to create a pattern on a material that is not a pity. cardboard, a large sheet of paper, film, etc. Of course, you can immediately apply the pattern to the skin in order to reduce the time and effort required. But the use of intermediate material is considered a more suitable option, you can always correct mistakes made.

  • Attach the materials obtained in the previous step to the sheet of paper or cardboard.
  • Take a pencil and draw the outline along the seams.
  • Arm yourself with scissors, cut out the elements.
  • Apply support mowing line.

After creating the blanks, carefully check their quality. If the pattern matches the original elements, then you can start working directly with the upholstery material. To transfer the picture, you can use a marker or crayon, depending on the color of the base.

When transferring, it must be remembered that 2-3 cm allowances must be left on the seams.In addition, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of stretching the material. Usually, the upholstery is pulled initially across and then along.

Genuine leather is stretched in two directions. Cheap substitutes. only one. You can also find improved leatherette on sale, which are also capable of stretching in two directions. In general, study the properties of the material before proceeding.

It is important to choose the right seam for sewing parts. It is recommended to stay on the sewing type, as it is the most resistant to mechanical stress and stretching, significantly increases the service life of the upholstery.

  • Initially, it is necessary to connect two parts by allowances.
  • Now fold the allowance to one side of the inside of the product.
  • You will get three layers that need to be stitched with a double stitch.

Seat Operation After Reconditioning

After restoration, it takes time for the new materials to adapt to your anatomical features and take the appropriate shape. Usually it is enough to drive 300 kilometers for this. After overcoming this distance, the harness does not cause any discomfort.

It is possible to restore a bicycle saddle yourself. But this will require a set of certain tools, a sewing machine and straight arms. If you have serious problems with the latter, and accuracy is definitely not your quality, then it is better to turn to specialists. For a relatively small amount, professionals are ready to perform the necessary work, both the hauling and the complete restoration of the saddle.

  • Use only quality materials for harness restoration.
  • Choose a seam stitch, it is considered the most reliable.
  • Use special leather needles with a sewing machine.
  • Better not to try to manually flash the materials. Due to the high density of leather and leatherette, this is very problematic to do.
  • It is best to use a second person to tighten the saddle. It is very difficult for one to cope with this task.

Run the seat well after restoration. If all the steps are performed correctly, it will not differ in any way from the new one. Naturally, the characteristics of the saddle largely depend on the quality of the restoration work carried out.

How to adjust a saddle on a bicycle

The cyclist’s contact with the bike is at five points, three of which are located on the saddle. Therefore, it is so important to choose the right bike part and install it in the most convenient way.

Choosing the optimal position of the saddle on the bike. Several points play a role in this:

  • the shape of the seat;
  • its slope;
  • saddle height.

Seat selection and adjustment should be based on these three parameters.

Saddle softness

A soft seat on a bicycle does not always mean comfortable. On the contrary, an overly soft seat can chafe and not ensure proper gluteal muscle function. A stiffer saddle does not compromise circulation, so it feels more comfortable and safer on longer rides.

Also, the choice depends on the gender: women’s bicycle seats are wider and softer than men’s.

How to adjust the angle of the saddle?

To do this, clamp the seatpost and gradually tilt the seat to the desired position. It should be horizontal and parallel to the ground. Watch this carefully: with a clear tilt of the seat forward, arms and legs will quickly get tired, backward. there is pressure on the groin area.

When bringing the saddle to the optimum position, secure the bolts well to avoid tilting forward under the weight of the seated.

Saddle height on a bike. determining the best position

Sitting height on a bike also matters a lot. Incorrect posture can lead to rapid fatigue and even injury. There are two methods to help you adjust the optimal saddle height for your height:

  • using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the floor to the groin area. The resulting value is multiplied by 1.09. we get the required distance from the axis of the pedals to the seat;
  • while sitting on your bike leaning against the wall, pedal in the opposite direction. In this case, the legs should be fully extended, and the hips should remain motionless. Bring the pedal to the lowest point: the leg should be straight.

To change the seat height, you need to loosen the seatpost clamp. many modern bicycles have a lever for this, others are bolted on. Loosen the clamp, move the pin up and down, then clamp the mount well. Also make sure that the saddle points straight ahead.

Adjusting the saddle correctly on your bike can help you avoid injury and make the ride as comfortable as possible.

HOW TO REPAIR A BIKE YOURSELF

Few people know how to repair a bicycle, since in most cases it is necessary to carry out complex repairs that require knowledge and experience. In this article, we’ll talk about home bike repairs that any cyclist can do. And in order to greatly facilitate the process, we will make a stand for repairing a bicycle with our own hands.

Anyone who is wondering how to fix a bicycle should improve their engineering skill in bicycle repair a little by reading a good book on the topic. An easier option is to find this information on the Internet.

REAR RIM EIGHT ALIGNMENT

If there is a curvature of the rim, then fixing this is not as difficult as it seems at first glance, and a spoke wrench will help you with this. A wheel of eight can look like this due to the weakening of the spokes due to aggressive driving, for this reason, they periodically require them to be tightened.

To tighten a weakened spoke, you need to wield a spoke wrench in the clockwise direction, and to loosen the spoke, you need to twist in the opposite direction.

It should be noted that with the help of the spoke wrench we rotate the nipple, and the spoke does not move at this moment. You need to find a place on the wheel where it is crooked.To do this, you can use chalk and rotate the tire.

When the place of curvature is found, the needles should be tightened on one side, and loosened with the arc, moreover, the tightening and loosening should be the same.

MOUNTAIN BIKE REAR WHEEL REPAIR

Since a mountain bike is used mainly for a rather aggressive riding style, corresponding malfunctions arise in it. Most often, in this type of bike, the rear wheel suffers. But repairing the rear wheel of a mountain bike usually comes down to aligning the eights and maintaining the hub.

REAR WHEEL BUSHING MAINTENANCE

It’s no secret that the bushing may contain bulk bearings and industrial bearings. The bushing needs service, immediately after it starts to make sounds that were not previously observed, turns tight, etc.

Bush with loose bearings. In a regular bike, the lubricant changes after 1000-2000 km, and even more often for a mountain bike. To lubricate the rear wheel hub, you need to dismantle the bicycle wheel from the frame, removing the camera and tires is already superfluous, they do not interfere.

Since you are carrying out the operation of repairing the bushing in the rear wheel of the bike, you cannot do without a whip for removing and a cassette puller. It is necessary to remove the eccentric, unscrew the axle nuts with a wrench. After that, you need to pull out the axle, and after it carefully remove the bearings, tweezers will help you in this matter.

The next step is to thoroughly rinse the bearings, you need to remove all traces of the old grease (white spirit, alcohol or gasoline), of course, you need to wipe the cone and the wheel axis of the bike itself, and of course, the bearing seat inside the bushing.

Be careful, if the condition of the bearings is in doubt (there is visible deformation), they must be replaced with new ones. In addition, attention should be paid to the hub axle itself, because aggressive riding on a mountain bike can lead to the curvature of the rear axle.

When everything that was written earlier is done, you should grease the place where the bearings sit inside the bushing with a thick lubricant and carefully, in turn, install each bearing in its place. Then, on top, we lubricate the bearings again to ensure a smooth ride.

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Well, now you can install the axle in place, and tighten it with nuts. The nuts do not need to be tightened with all their strength, just enough so that the wheel does not dangle in different directions.

Bushing with industrial bearings. To remove the axle, you will have to knock it out from the side of the drum. Most often, after knocking out, one bearing remains on the axle.

The next step is to knock out the second bearing with a screwdriver. Now you need to remove the drum. Then wipe each seat. If the bearing needs to be changed, then we do it. Then we install all the components in their places.

HOW TO REPAIR A BIKE: TIPS AND RECOMMENDATIONS

One way or another, first you should thoroughly study the theory, and only after that start practice. A lot of informational material related to bicycle repair is a little scary in its amount. And the accuracy of what is written is not guaranteed by anyone.

Do not be intimidated, start gradually. First of all, you should thoroughly study your bike, and not understand inside and out in any type of bike. Over time, you yourself will understand which tools are right for you.

Most bicycle parts are easy to use and maintain. Removing or changing them will not be difficult, and identifying a breakdown in them is also as easy as shelling pears.

Let’s take a look at the main points to consider when repairing a bike:

  • Most of the threaded connections in the bike (as, in general, everywhere else) are unscrewed counterclockwise, and clamped clockwise. But there is an exception. this is the left pedal thread. Unscrew the left pedal clockwise and tighten counterclockwise.
  • There are quite fragile parts in the bicycle. You do not need to exert maximum effort when working with spare parts that you have never repaired before.
  • It happens that you cannot remove any part with your own hands or loosen the connection. In this case, it is better to ask a knowledgeable person for help, believe me, this is much better than breaking a bicycle. And in the future, you will already learn how to cope with a problem area, and intervention in this node will no longer require additional help.
  • If you are about to fix your bike, it’s best not to rush. Repair done in a hurry usually requires another repair.
  • Prepare a place to work. It is better if it will be a specially equipped corner in which you will keep clean and use high-quality devices for lighting. Although repairing your own bike is not a daily painstaking work, it is better to do it in a special place.

OWN BIKE REPAIR STAND

Being engaged in self-service of the bike, sooner or later comes the realization that the bike rack will make life much easier. Even performing gear adjustments or cleaning the chain without a stand is irritating. It is as a result of this that a do-it-yourself bike repair stand was made.

  • Supermarket trolley;
  • Metal tube Ø 47 mm;
  • Metal tube Ø 60 mm;
  • Metal inlet Ø 10 mm;
  • Metal corner 25 x 25 mm;
  • Metal corner 34 x 34 mm;
  • Rubber 30 mm thick.

So the base of the stand is the bottom of the supermarket cart. Weld a thick-walled tube Ø 47 mm to the base at an angle of 90 °.

Now let’s move on to the bike securing unit. To start with the blanks. You will need to cut 2 pieces from the tube and a piece of round timber from metal. The diameter of one of the pieces must exceed the diameter of the tube, which was used as a vertical stand, that is, 60 mm.

The tube-in-tube principle allows you to adjust the vertical position of the bike. Round timber is welded to a wide piece of pipe. Next, you need to cut a piece of the tube along, and weld on the fastening lips.

We get a cut pipe with lips on a round timber. This will make it possible to change the angle of the bike relative to the horizon.

Now we make a shelf for tools and parts. To do this, we weld a corner 25 by 25 to the legs of the cart just above the wheels in the form of a parallelogram. One corner is even used as an additional base for a vertical pipe.

The joint between the pipe and the corner must be boiled. Slightly higher to the legs of the base, weld 2 corners under the upper shelf. To strengthen the structure, we weld 2 corners with a metal rod.

For the same purpose, we weld a diagonal lintel from the bottom point of the vertical tube to the top point on the base frame. To prevent the front wheels from rotating, we weld their hinges using a jumper. After that, you need to cut the shelves themselves, from plywood and install them.

Now let’s grab the locking knot again. We take a couple of thick-walled metal plates and drill in the middle. We weld one end of the plates with a 35 mm angle. The bike frame will be attached between these corners. The other side of the plates is connected by a hinge.

Then one plate is welded to a horizontal tube with a longitudinal cut. We insert a compression finger into the holes in the lips, which can be removed from the Soviet assembly bike.

After welding, we attach the rubber to the inner sides of the corners to better fix the bike frame.

One wheel must be locked to avoid movement during operation. This is done by welding the nut to the wheel joint and screwing in the bolt.

That’s all, the rack is ready, now there is only painting left.

Transmission repair steps

Repair includes adjusting the front and rear derailleurs, as well as checking the condition of the cables, chain, cassette and rollers.

  • Unscrew the bolt holding the cable.
  • Disassemble the shifter and remove the cable from it and from the shirts. Shirts are also recommended to be replaced!
  • Clean shirts and put a drop of oil in them for better cable glide.
  • Thread the new cable through the shifter and then into all shirts.
  • Start configuring the switch.
  • Bite off the excess part of the cable and secure the end with a special tip.

If you see that the teeth of the transfer rollers or cassettes have worn out, they must be replaced with new ones. Worn cassette or rollers rotate the chain, and the quality of gear shifting on the bike suffers greatly.

Over time, the chain deteriorates. It is recommended to keep several chains in stock and change them every 100 kilometers, because the chain deteriorates due to chain wear. Multiple chains will wear out more slowly and your cassette will last longer. You can determine the state of the chain using a special tool. It is impossible to repair the chain, you just need to replace it if necessary.

If the chain is in good condition, simply remove it, clean and lubricate. Remove excess with a napkin or dry cloth.

Instruments:

The tools you may need are a Phillips screwdriver and possibly a 10 or 8 hex key or wrench depending on the switch. It is also very convenient to carry out work on a special bike rack, but you can also cope without it.

Bicycle Rear Derailleur Adjustment

After we have eliminated all 5 possible problems with the rear derailleur, we can begin to configure it. I took a bike with a shimano rear derailleur and divided the whole setup into 8 steps:

On the shifter, we throw off to the highest speed (which corresponds to the smallest star on the block of led stars). We pedal so that the chain is on a small star. (now you understand why it is so convenient to work with the rack)

I do not show numbers on the shifter, but believe me the position of the indicator is at number 9. Which corresponds to the smallest star on the cassette.

When adjusting the rear derailleur on the sprockets (front), it is best to place the chain where you use it most. This is usually the central star on a 3-star system.

Loosen the hexagon or bolt that holds the cable.

We twist it all the way, and then return one turn back all the adjusting thumbs of the cable tension that are on the switch and on the shifter (sometimes there is only one adjustment screw on bicycles, most often it is on the switch, less often on the shifter).

In my case, the cable tension regulator is located only on the shifter. The photo shows how I twist the lamb.

We pull the cable with our hand (it is not necessary to pull with all our strength, the main thing is that it does not sag and be stretched along its entire length) and tighten the bolt holding the cable.

Align the center of the derailleur foot rollers with the center of the smallest chainring on the bike. Some people remove the chain for stages 5 and 6 to fine tune them. I do not see the need for this, you can not shoot, especially if you have a switch that is not of the top level, such as shimano tourney, acera or alivio.

Actually, all this movement of the switch occurs using the adjusting screws with the letters H and L.

The shift pad position adjusting screws look something like this.

Turn the screw H with a screwdriver until the centers of the rollers on the foot of the switch and the small star coincide and go to the next step.

In the photo, I showed a red line, by which you can see that the switch roller is under a small star on the cassette, which means that the extreme position is set correctly.

We switch on the shifter to the lowest speed (number 1), which corresponds to the largest driven star. We twist the pedals so that the chain goes to the extreme sprocket. And also align the center of the presser foot rollers with the center of the largest sprocket. All this alignment takes place with the screw L.

On the shifter, the indicator for switching the speed to number 1, if there are no numbers in the most extreme position, which should correspond to the largest star on the cassette.

Essentially, the H and L screws act as end stops for your derailleur, which keeps the chain from flying off and keeps you alive.

We expose the extreme position of the switch foot so that the switch does not hit the spokes of the wheel. By aligning the axes of the largest sprocket on the cassette and the axis of the derailleur foot.

We drop again at the highest speed. Do not forget to pedal. The chain should be on the smallest star. Next, switch to one speed and turn the pedals, if the chain does not jump or does not jump right away, then you need to slightly unscrew the adjusting screw that adjusts the cable tension (it turns out we are pulling the cable).

Next, we again check and switch from the highest speed one step lower (if an 8-speed cassette, then from 8 to 7 speed), if the switch happened immediately, congratulations you set the switch! You can check the remaining speeds will also easily and clearly switch both up and down.!

The chain should jump to the adjacent speed. In my case, this is a 9 speed cassette. Switching from 9 to 8.

Adjust the distance from the largest star to the derailleur roller. This distance should be about 4 mm, if the distance is greater, the switching clarity will be reduced. The adjusting screw on the switch is responsible for adjusting this gap. By unscrewing the screw, the distance decreases, screwing it in increases. tuning is done on the largest star corresponding to the number 1 on your shifter.

Necessary terminology

To understand the process of self-adjusting the speed switch, you need to know the definition of some specific terms, otherwise it will be difficult to understand the instructions.

  • Speed ​​switch (crossover). This is a transmission element that is specifically responsible for gear shifting. If there is a rear crossover, then it also acts as a support for the tension of the bicycle chain. The crossover (back and front) can be described as follows: it is a parallelogram mechanism equipped with a powerful return spring, on which the frame is fixed. The rear derailleur has two rollers inside the frame. if the level of cable tension increases, then the frame shifts the chain to large stars, and if this cable tension decreases, then the chain is shifted towards small stars with the help of the frame. The mechanism of the front derailleur works in the same way.
  • Shifter. It is designed to switch speeds by changing the tension level of the cable. Most often, the shifter is located on the handlebars, but in some models of bicycles it can also be located on the lower tube of the frame triangle. Note:shifters and speed switches have a common connection on the steering wheel (this is provided by a cable) and are covered with a jacket.
  • Cassette. This is the name of the rear transmission unit, which consists of stars of different sizes (of different diameters and with a different number of teeth) and is installed on the rear hub drum. If the bike is old, then a ratchet is used instead of a drum in the rear hub.
  • Cock. It is a metal part that helps maintain the integrity of the frame and rear derailleur in the event that the vehicle has been hit. The rooster is always attached to the frame, and a cross-over is already attached to this metal part. When a blow occurs, it is this very cock that breaks, and the frame and the speed switch (crossover) remain intact.
  • System. This is the name of the front transmission unit, which consists of stars of different diameters and with a different number of teeth. These stars are fastened to each other and the connecting rods with special hollow bolts on the connecting rods, but you need to know that there are no hollow bolts in cheap bicycles. the stars and connecting rods are riveted to each other.
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Bicycle front derailleur

The transition to the setting of this mechanism is possible only when the rear derailleur is set. This feature is important to take into account before starting work. The figure shows the switch (round, black).

Leave the chain on the middle sprocket of the front block and place it on the large sprocket in the rear block. If chain friction is observed, re-engage adjuster L. To adjust stop H, the chain moves to the largest sprocket at the front and smallest at the back. The adjuster will help to position the chain in the optimal position without friction and excessive tension on the chain. At the end of the work, be sure to check the quality of its implementation.

Switching recommendations

Drive only at speeds that will not cause the chain to tilt too much. For example, you cannot set the speed to 1/8, 1/10, 3/1 (the first number is forward gear, the second is reverse), and so on. For the smallest front chainring, you can turn on 1–4 speeds at the rear, for the middle. 3–7, for the largest. 7. If you nevertheless put an incompatible gear, there will be a risk of chain jamming and spinning, as well as an increase in its wear rate.

On a speed bike, fast gear changes are very important, especially if you are competing. Transmission repairs should be carried out before the race, and then after, as aggressive driving can cause the shift adjustment to become out of order. If you do full maintenance of your bike at least once a season, it will serve you for a very long time.!

How to Install a Bike Seat

How to fix defects

The speed switch will work perfectly and the bike itself will be with a new (or not very old) cable, with absolutely intact shirts (and not dry!) ​​And not deformed (or in a small volume) stars and chain.

If the cable is just stretched, then you just need to pull it up. But if the cable breaks, then you cannot do without replacing this element. The process of replacing the cable is not difficult, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the recommendations of the specialists:

  • unscrew the cable fixing screw, which is located on the cross-over;
  • pull the cable out of the shirts;
  • if necessary, disassemble the shifter and pull the cable out of it;
  • a new cable must be inserted into a special groove in the shifter, and it is the metal tip of the cable that must enter into the groove;
  • lubricate the entire cable with a special grease, you do not need to spare the consumable;
  • pass the cable through the shirts;
  • there are special grooves on the frame, into which shirts are tucked;
  • fasten the cable with a screw on the front end.

In case of poor gear shifting, pay attention to the return spring. it must be clean and lubricated. To achieve this, you just need to rinse the spring under running water, dry it completely and lubricate it thoroughly.

If the frame of the rear derailleur is crooked, then this can only mean one thing. the cock is bent. If this is not critical, then you can correct the cock with your hands. you need to take the rear switch in your hand, which is fixed on the cock, and hold the frame with the other hand. Slowly pull out the problematic transmission element (rooster) until relatively even setting.

Note: such repair of the cock is a temporary solution to the problem of shifting gears. The fact is that the rooster is a consumable that needs to be changed in time, and not constantly repaired / pulled.

In some cases, the bike owner pays attention to a deformed rear derailleur (the front derailleur rarely suffers on impact). it can also be returned to its original position with the help of hands. But if the rear derailleur is deformed too much, then it is advisable to replace it.

Note: After performing specific manipulations to repair bent / deformed parts, do not use the bike for too long. this may end up falling, another breakdown at the most inopportune moments. And in some cases, such carelessness can lead to a traffic accident.!

Rear derailleur

Make sure the cock is level first. If it is still bent, you can contact the service to straighten it, or try it yourself. Alternatively, you can simply replace it. For 2016, for roosters are only about 300-900 rubles. Do not even try to tune the derailleur with a bent cock, as the gear setting on the bike in this case will not work for you.!

Some firms produce the so-called cock guard, which is attached to the frame. Do not buy it under any circumstances! A rooster is a consumable component that can and should be replaced if it breaks. When hitting this very protection, the cock will remain intact, but the frame may crack. The frame is harder and more expensive to change.

When you are convinced that the rooster and the cable are in good condition, you can proceed to the actual setting.

Place the chain on the largest chainring in the front and the smallest in the back.

Unscrew the bolt that holds the rear crossover cable.

By rotating the bolt with the inscription H, you need to make sure that the switch rollers lie in the same plane with the desired sprocket.

Then lightly stretch the cable and tighten the bolt holding it. Over-tensioning the cable will make the crossover difficult to work.

Shift to the lowest speed (i.e. the largest star in the back and smallest in the front).

Rotate screw L until the derailleur rollers line up against the large sprocket.

Check if gear changes are good.

If shifting is not correct, use the thumbscrew on the shifter, which changes the cable tension.

Now that you have set up the rear derailleur, you are ready to adjust the front.

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Want to know everything

Cycling is designed to tone all muscle groups, lift your spirits and improve your quality of life. An important role is played by the technical condition of all components of the bike and its setting. Individual fit for the cyclist is carried out according to several parameters, in particular, according to the position of the saddle.

The saddle setting determines the fit, handling and ride efficiency. Let’s consider how to properly adjust the saddle so that it is both comfortable and not tired after long trips.

Why adjust your bike saddle

The bike seat can be adjusted in three directions:

  • height above pedal level;
  • angle of inclination in the horizontal plane;
  • bias.

Let’s take a look at how each parameter can be adjusted correctly: Height determines the position of the feet when moving and how efficiently you pedal. A low saddle contributes to strong bending of the legs, their rapid fatigue and low pedaling efficiency. Too much height will impair the grip of the shoe and the handling.

The position of the saddle corresponding to the height eliminates all negative consequences, makes it possible to rotate the pedals for a long time without significant fatigue and loss of energy, and allows you to quickly reach the ground with your foot in parking lots and in emergency situations. And when combined with the adjusted handlebar position, the seat height will ensure the rider is properly seated.

The horizontal tilt determines the load on the body parts. A forward position will increase the stress on the arms and move the body towards the handlebars. A tilted back seat will raise the upper body, shifting the force center towards the lower back and abdomen. On some bicycles, the saddles also adjust horizontally relative to the center of the seatpost. When choosing the right position, the length of the arms plays an important role. If it’s hard to reach the steering wheel, the seat moves a little forward. With constant hand fatigue, it is worth moving back. On long mountain bike rides, this parameter can be adjusted several times depending on the riding conditions.

Correct tuning rests on three pillars: comfort, efficiency and reduced steering fatigue.

Seat height adjustment

Height is the most important parameter that each cyclist sets independently, taking into account height and riding habits. Before we start adjusting the height, let’s take a look at a number of safety aspects:

  • the seatpost must not be extended beyond the maximum mark;
  • the saddle must be firmly fixed in this position;
  • the front end must face in the direction of travel.

General setup scheme:

  • Loosen the eccentric or clamping nut.
  • While holding the seat, gently pull out or push in the pin.
  • Without letting go, tighten the mount.
  • Check the fixing strength with a few light blows.

There are several ways to set the saddle level:

  • numerical calculation;
  • almost straight leg method;
  • heel method.

The first option is the easiest way to set the seat height above the carriage. With the help of a measuring tape or tape measure, the height is changed from the sole to the groin. This value is then multiplied by 1.09. For example, the leg height was 65 cm, which means that the bicycle seat should be located above the pedals at a level of 71 cm.It should be noted that this method is approximate and will not be suitable for those who rely only on their own feelings.

The second method of setting the height is to determine the bend of the leg. For the correct position, an almost straightened leg is characteristic at the lowest point. The leg is completely straight. the seat post goes down into the tube. The leg is bent strongly. lift the saddle up. Increase the height gradually, especially the first time. The straight heel method is the opposite of the previous one, but it also allows you to set the level of the saddle. Setting sequence:

  • Secure the bike firmly or have someone else hold the handlebars.
  • Sit down and put your heel on the pedal at the lowest point.
  • Adjust the height so that the leg is perfectly straight.

The heel should be firmly fixed in the center of the pedal. Both legs should be extended in the lower positions. If the heels do not reach, and you have to bend down, the saddle must be lowered. On the contrary, if the leg is even slightly bent at the knee, raise.

Tilt angle adjustment

how to fix a bike saddle with a rip or tear. selle italia turbo

The standard, generally accepted and correct position of the seat in the horizontal plane is parallel to the road. Manufacturers recommend leaving this position and not resorting to slopes unnecessarily. Actually, from the illustration, it is clear that the saddle cannot be deflected at a large angle.

In the first case, the load on the arms increases, the cyclist hunches down and can slide forward. Tilting the seat back adds fatigue to the legs and impairs handling by extending the arms.

However, within reasonable limits, the tilt adjustment can be carried out individually. Most often this is required by the specific conditions of mountain biking. On uneven areas, where the arms are bouncing even with a good shock absorber, the load on them can be leveled by tilting the saddle back. When a low seating position is required (overcoming the wind, for example), it makes sense to tilt the seat forward. The recommended tilt range is no more than 10 degrees in each direction.

Horizontal adjustment

Adjusting the saddle in relation to the handlebars allows you to adjust the position according to your arm length Correct centering has a positive effect on bike speed and handling.

  • The work should be performed in the following sequence:
  • Loosen the screw securing the pin to the seat.
  • Move the seat.
  • Lock the mount.
  • Sit on the bike and check the knee position. It should be located strictly vertically with the pedal axis. The foot is checked on the pedal at the lowest point. If the knee protrudes noticeably forward, re-adjust.

Adjustment of this type is done only after adjusting the height. The combination of correctly set parameters of the saddle, taking into account the physiological characteristics of the cyclist, will help to avoid excessive fatigue of the arms and legs, will allow you to be in motion for as long as possible and will have a positive effect on the comfort of control.

Seat height adjustment

Height is the most important parameter that each cyclist sets independently, taking into account height and riding habits. Before we start adjusting the height, let’s take a look at a number of safety aspects:

  • the seatpost must not be extended beyond the maximum mark;
  • the saddle must be firmly fixed in this position;
  • the front end must face in the direction of travel.
  • Loosen the eccentric or clamping nut.
  • While holding the seat, gently pull out or push in the pin.
  • Without letting go, tighten the mount.
  • Check the fixing strength with a few light blows.

There are several ways to set the saddle level:

  • numerical calculation;
  • almost straight leg method;
  • heel method.

The first option is the easiest way to set the seat height above the carriage. With the help of a measuring tape or tape measure, the height is changed from the sole to the groin. This value is then multiplied by 1.09. For example, the leg height was 65 cm, which means that the bicycle seat should be located above the pedals at a level of 71 cm.It should be noted that this method is approximate and will not be suitable for those who rely only on their own feelings.

The second method of setting the height is to determine the bend of the leg. For the correct position, an almost straightened leg is characteristic at the lowest point. The leg is completely straight. the seat post goes down into the tube. The leg is bent strongly. lift the saddle up. Increase the height gradually, especially the first time.

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The straight heel method is the opposite of the previous one, but it also allows the saddle to be level. Setting sequence:

  • Secure the bike firmly or have someone else hold the handlebars.
  • Sit down and put your heel on the pedal at the lowest point.
  • Adjust the height so that the leg is perfectly straight.

The heel should be firmly fixed in the center of the pedal. Both legs should be extended in the lower positions. If the heels do not reach, and you have to bend down, the saddle must be lowered. On the contrary, if the leg is even slightly bent at the knee, raise.

Tilt angle adjustment

The standard, generally accepted and correct position of the seat in the horizontal plane is parallel to the road. Manufacturers recommend leaving this position and not resorting to slopes unnecessarily. Actually, from the illustration, it is clear that the saddle cannot be deflected at a large angle.

In the first case, the load on the arms increases, the cyclist hunches down and can slide forward. Tilting the seat back adds fatigue to the legs and impairs handling by extending the arms.

However, within reasonable limits, the tilt adjustment can be carried out individually. Most often this is required by the specific conditions of mountain biking. On uneven areas, where the arms are bouncing even with a good shock absorber, the load on them can be leveled by tilting the saddle back. When a low seating position is required (overcoming the wind, for example), it makes sense to tilt the seat forward. The recommended tilt range is no more than 10 degrees in each direction.

How to properly fit and adjust a saddle on a bicycle

Cycling is designed to tone all muscle groups, lift your spirits and improve your quality of life. An important role is played by the technical condition of all components of the bike and its setting. Individual fit for the cyclist is carried out according to several parameters, in particular, according to the position of the saddle.

The saddle setting determines the fit, handling and ride efficiency. Let’s consider how to properly adjust the saddle so that it is both comfortable and not tired after long trips.

Why adjust your bike saddle

The bike seat can be adjusted in three directions:

  • height above pedal level;
  • angle of inclination in the horizontal plane;
  • bias.

Let’s consider what the correct adjustment of each parameter gives.

The height determines the position of the legs when driving and the efficiency of pedaling. A low saddle contributes to strong bending of the legs, their rapid fatigue and low pedaling efficiency. Too much height will impair the grip of the shoe and the handling.

The position of the saddle corresponding to the height eliminates all negative consequences, makes it possible to rotate the pedals for a long time without significant fatigue and loss of energy, and allows you to quickly reach the ground with your foot in parking lots and in emergency situations. And when combined with the adjusted handlebar position, the seat height will ensure the rider is properly seated.

The horizontal tilt determines the load on the body parts. A forward position will increase the stress on the arms and move the body towards the handlebars. The tilted seat back will raise the upper body, shifting the force center towards the lower back and abdomen.

On some bicycles, the saddles also adjust horizontally in relation to the center of the seatpost. When choosing the right position, the length of the arms plays an important role. If it’s hard to reach the steering wheel, the seat moves a little forward. With constant hand fatigue, it is worth moving back. On long mountain bike rides, this parameter can be adjusted several times depending on the riding conditions.

Correct tuning rests on three pillars: comfort, efficiency and reduced steering fatigue.

Horizontal adjustment

Adjusting the saddle in relation to the handlebars allows you to adjust the position according to your arm length Correct centering has a positive effect on bike speed and handling.

The work should be performed in the following sequence:

  • Loosen the screw securing the pin to the seat.
  • Move the seat.
  • Lock the mount.
  • Sit on the bike and check the knee position. It should be located strictly vertically with the pedal axis. The foot is checked on the pedal at the lowest point. If the knee protrudes noticeably forward, re-adjust.

This type of setting is only done after adjusting the height.

The combination of correctly set saddle parameters, taking into account the physiological characteristics of the cyclist, will help to avoid excessive fatigue of the arms and legs, will allow you to be in motion for as long as possible and will have a positive effect on the comfort of control.

Adjusting the bike and preparing for the ride

Seat adjustment. The saddle is adjustable in three directions.

The height of the saddle should be such that the foot can freely reach the pedal with the heel in its lower position. It is advisable to adjust the saddle in the shoes in which you will ride. If the saddle is set too low (the cyclist sitting in the saddle reaches the ground with his feet). the muscles of the legs will tire faster, as the legs will not straighten and the muscles may “clog”. Only representatives of extreme sports lower the saddle low. It is not recommended to set the saddle too high. First, the foot will not reach the pedal. there is a danger of overloading the muscles of the back, as the cyclist will bend when pedaling Secondly, the seating position will be too high and it will be difficult for you to maintain balance when starting and getting off the bike. In order to set the saddle to the required height, you need to unscrew the bolt in the seatpost of the frame (or unscrew the eccentric). you will have a saddle with a seatpost attached to it. (Generally, the seat post will move freely in the seat tube, but it also happens to get stuck (due to rust, etc.). In this case, grease can be used. After pulling out the seat post, be sure to wipe it off. remaining grease).

So, you find the right position (pay attention to the risks on the seatpost.cannot be extended higher than the inscription), and fix the seatpost by tightening a bolt or an eccentric.

As a rule, the saddle is installed horizontally relative to the ground, although many find for themselves other positions. If the toe of the saddle (the front of the saddle) is too raised. there may be a feeling of falling back when driving, if, on the contrary, you are too inclined, you slide forward. Both are inconvenient when riding, so we recommend that you mount the saddle in a horizontal position.

In order to adjust the saddle position, the saddle clamping mechanism in the seat post must be loosened. unscrew the corresponding bolt / nuts, set in a convenient position and secure by tightening the bolt / nuts. (for classic fastening, box or open-end wrenches are needed to unscrew two nuts, to adjust a bolted saddle, use a hex wrench to loosen the bolt tightening).

Saddle adjustability back and forth is usually limited to a few centimeters. But there are rules here as well. Experienced bikers give this advice: the horizontal position of the saddle should be adjusted so that the distance from the elbow to the fingertips is no more than from the toe of the saddle to the stem. In order to adjust the position of the saddle, you must do the same as p. 2

After each seat tilt adjustment or front-to-back adjustment, check to see if you have tightened the seatpost lock well. Bicycle saddles “love” to loosen up, and if you ride for a long time with the saddle in a weakened position, a special notch can wear off and the saddle will no longer “twist” under any effort.

The height of the handlebars depends on the riding position you are going to ride. If the steering wheel is raised too high, it becomes difficult to move uphill; if the steering wheel is lowered too low, it is more difficult to control the road situation. When riding on roads with car traffic, it is recommended that the cyclist’s back is at an angle of approximately 30 “to the vertical. For fitness, light walks, a 45”.60 “/ 60”.90 “body tilt is recommended. For older people, children, the recommended body tilt is 60 “-90”.

For road bikes, the rider’s seating position should be lower.

Not all bicycles have wide enough handlebar adjustments. On bicycles with threadless steering columns, the handlebars can only be raised a few millimeters by installing additional spacer rings. Reducing the height of the rudder is possible only by placing the stem in a different type. However, many bicycles have a stem design that allows the height of the handlebars to be adjusted between 25-35mm. To raise or lower the handlebar, loosen the stem bolt with a hex wrench. Set the desired height and tighten the stem bolt.

There are rudder center marks on the steering wheel. The handlebar is usually installed correctly if these marks are hidden where the handlebars are attached. However (very rarely) it happens that these markings are incorrect. If you find a manufacturer’s oversight by eye, you will have to center the steering wheel with a tape measure.

Centering the front wheel relative to the steering wheel.

Having slightly loosened the handlebar fasteners, place the front wheel between your legs (the bike facing you) and center it perpendicular to the handlebar.

Checking the adjustment of the brake system

Spin both wheels with the brakes released. The brake pads should be 1-3 mm from the rim and should be close to the rims with their entire plane. They should not touch the tire or be below the rim.

Press and release the brake levers several times. They should not rest against the handlebars (fall through) and should not sink, that is, with difficulty returning to their original position. Brake levers should not be too soft or too tight.

Check for looseness and loose bolts

Make sure the handlebars are firmly attached to the stem and that there is no play in the steering column

Check the reliability of the fastening of both wheels in the forks (believe me, it is not the most pleasant feeling when, for example, the front wheel jumps out and rolls ahead of you!).

Check that the seat post is securely in the frame tube and the seat in the seat clamp.

Check tire pressure and condition of tires

The recommended pressure is marked on the sidewall of the tire. Do not inflate tires above the maximum pressure. High pressure is consistent with driving on hard, dry surfaces. Low pressure is suitable when driving on snow, dry sand, slippery and muddy roads. It is best to inflate the tires with a pump with a pressure gauge. If there is no pressure gauge, then you can roughly estimate the amount by which the tire deflects under the weight of the cyclist. it should be within one centimeter.

Check the condition of the tires, and in case of heavy wear, replace them with new ones. Worn tires. a common cause of unexpected camera punctures.

If you plan to ride in the dark, check the health of the lighting fixtures and reflectors and the level of battery charge.

Saddle materials:

Major reputable product manufacturers: Spectra, Romin, Fizik, BBB, Allay, Brooks, Ritchey, Tioga.

Species differences of the element: according to the material for production, width, degree of rigidity, the shape of the landing area, the gender of the cyclist, the presence or absence of springs.

Constructive forms of modern saddles:

  • The classic saddle for cycling tourism. Landing pad of sufficient length (280 mm for men, 245 mm for women), width 170 mm, narrow and long nose with non-protruding sides.
  • Separate male seat. Two semicircular pads are positioned next to each other on a horizontal mount.
  • Saddle without spout. Innovative ergonomic crescent MoonSaddle made of durable elastomer.
  • Saddle with a hole. Sitting with a cut or concave center region along the spout minimizing pressure on soft tissue.
  • Seat with springs. Used on cruiser bikes and city bikes for vertical fit.

Bicycle saddle repair

Bicycle saddle. a seat, a cyclist’s seat. The saddle structure takes into account the human anatomical features. Models are available for women and men. Basic mounting element. seat post.

Bicycle saddle. a seat, a cyclist’s seat. The saddle structure takes into account the human anatomical features. Models are available for women and men. Basic mounting element. seat post.

Adjustment, tuning, service

Situations in which a thorough repair of a bicycle saddle is required are rare. common is the need to tune, adjust, overhaul and lubricate the seat structures. It is advisable to entrust all these operations to specialists of bicycle workshops. But it should be borne in mind that any adjustments are made taking into account the individual anatomical characteristics of the cyclist, his personal comfort and riding style. Therefore, a lot has to be done independently, by the method of test drives and running-in.

Saddle adjustment involves adjusting the optimal height, tilt up and down, longitudinal position (forward and backward shift), setting the horizontal position. Preventive maintenance includes checking, cleaning and lubricating threaded connections and tightening bolts if necessary.

  • seat spring fatigue stress,
  • broken seat bolt threads,
  • landing site deformation,
  • mobility and unstable, wobbly saddle position,
  • damage to the landing pin,
  • mechanical damage, ruptures.