How to fix a bicycle pump

Tips for choosing a pump

Purchase of a simple plastic mini pump. will allow you not to expensively solve most of the issues with pumping wheels.

  • aluminum mini pump
  • universal for Presta and Shrader nipples
  • two-way or telescope (swings faster)
  • with hose for easy pumping
  • with pressure gauge (know pressure)

If you do not have a car compressor or pump at home / in the garage, then it is optimal. an additional stationary pump will be purchased. which will allow you to quickly pump up the wheels at home.

Ultimate pressure

The roll of the bike, ride comfort and cross-country ability depend on the pressure of the wheels. Experts do not recommend driving with flat tires. there is a rapid wear of the bicycle tire. If the trip is planned on a flat road, then you can pump up the camera to the maximum. For rough terrain, average wheel pressure is appropriate. When driving for a long time on mud, snow and on difficult sections of the road, it is recommended to lower the wheel to the minimum value to ensure the best passability.

To find out the maximum and minimum pressure for which a particular set of tires is designed, just read the inscription on the side of the tire. For mountain bikes and city bikes, a pump up to 6 bar / 100 PSI is fine. The highway driver will need a more powerful device, from 7-11 bar / 130-160 PSI.

By nipple type

The nipple is responsible for sealed connection of the pump to the bicycle chamber, shock absorbers or the bicycle air fork. Many pumps are versatile and support both popular Presta and Shrader standards with an adapter or special pump head.

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Presta (FV). a new standard designed specifically for pumping mountain bikes or road bikes, where the pressure inside the chamber reaches 4.2 and 9 bar, respectively;

Shrader (AV). automotive standard, has an increased diameter, which ranges from 8 to 8.5 mm, is mainly installed on the wheels of mountain bikes and bikes intended for extreme riding;

Dunlop (DV). old bicycle nipple;

How to fix your bicycle pump head of leaking air

bicycle, pump

How to choose a bicycle pump?

The pump is an essential tool for the cyclist to keep the bike on track. Understanding the choice of a bicycle pump will help to consider the main criteria for selecting the right pump for the specific needs of the cyclist.

Shaft and mini pumps

Lightweight and compact bike pumps, but the wheel inflation speed is much slower. Their small size makes them easy to transport on a frame or in a backpack. The efficiency of mini and freewheel pumps largely depends on the model. Some are capable of pumping even road tires. 7 bar.

Body materials

The presented characteristic has a direct impact on the price, strength and durability of the pump.

Steel. Heavy, reliable. As a rule, floor pumps are produced from steel, which are rarely transported.

Aluminum. Lightweight and reliable. Both floor-standing and portable pump models can be produced in aluminum.

Plastic. Lightweight, not expensive, operated in all weather conditions, small in size, but more fragile.

Floor standing, stationary

They swing quickly. but large, therefore it is recommended to use them as stationary bicycle pumps. Due to the large volume of the pump chambers, they are able to inflate the wheel for a small number of strokes.

Floor-standing pump models pump the chamber up to 15 bar, therefore they are often equipped with a pressure gauge. It can accurately measure the pressure inside the wheel and prevent the possibility of rupture.

How to fix a bicycle pump

This yard method was used by our great-grandfathers. A small coin bent in half or two washers clamped by a small bolt and nut were used as a clamp. It’s always a good idea to have a few pre-folded coins in your bike bag. Having determined the puncture site, place the camera in this place between the edges of the coin and hit them gently with a heavy improvised object. The edges of the coin will grip and seal the puncture securely. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise you can damage the camera even more. If the clamp is made with high quality, then such a camera can still serve for a very long time.

Punctures of the chamber happen quite often. it is enough to hit a sharp object, even a small size, as the wheel immediately begins to release air. Experienced cyclists always stock up on special glue and pieces of dense rubber.

You can determine the puncture site by ear. when you press on the chamber, air hiss out of the hole. It is here that you need to stick the rubber patch. Remove the wheel before repairing the bike. Then the damaged camera is removed, and the puncture site is processed with a special sandpaper included in the repair kit (if you have one) and degreased. Only then can the special instant glue be applied. The glue is very expensive but reliable. The sealed chamber dries within 10 minutes and is reinstalled.

Other masters recommend. When repairing punctures, cut the camera in half at the puncture site and then tie into a tight knot. Keep in mind that this travel repair option is only designed to get you home. Of course, it can last for several days, but drive carefully and do not forget to replace the tied camera with a new one as soon as you arrive home. While this repair does not require a new camera and a set of patches, you will still need a pump to continue your journey.

Start the rescue mission by removing the punctured wheel and pulling out the camera. Find out what caused the puncture. this travel option can be used once on one camera, so you need to be sure not to damage it again. Pump the chamber slightly with a pump and the puncture will reveal itself. Next, follow this simple operation.

When you arrive home, slowly glue your bike camera.

To fix a puncture of a bicycle wheel we need:

1) Remove the punctured bicycle wheel

2) Disassemble the punctured bicycle wheel

With the help of plastic assemblies, we begin to remove one bead of the tire from the rim, while being careful not to damage the camera. Now that the camera is available, we begin to take it out. In this case, it is important that the tire does not turn on the rim, since we still need to find out the place and cause of the puncture.

It is necessary to remember which side the bicycle tube was in the tire. And, after that, pump up the camera. When the camera is inflated, we can immediately find a hole in it. Then it is necessary to find an appropriate place on the tire and eliminate the cause of the puncture of the bicycle wheel chamber. It can be glass or metal. Be careful! Be careful not to hurt your fingers. After removing the glass or nail, or perhaps just making sure that the danger to the camera no longer exists, you can begin to repair the camera. If you are going to install a new camera, skip the next paragraph.

Having localized the puncture site in the chamber, you can start gluing. To do this, take a piece of sandpaper and clean the puncture site within a radius of about 2 cm from the hole. Then apply the glue in a thin layer the first time, wait until it dries and takes on a matte color. Reapply the glue and, after waiting again for about 5 minutes, press the patch to the puncture site. It is desirable that the middle of the patch be as close to the hole to be glued as possible. After waiting a few minutes, you can start installing the camera and tire on the wheel.

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4) Mounting the bicycle tube and bicycle wheel tire.

How to remove and replace pedals on a bicycle

A situation has arisen that it is necessary to unscrew the pedals from the bike, but you do not know how to do it correctly. Let’s take a look at how to perform this operation quickly and easily.

How to check the pedal

It is advisable to check the condition of the pedals, their tightness, the absence of backlash and the condition of the case before each trip. You can just stand with your foot on it, and then, twisting, watch and listen to how it rotates on the axis. If there is no visual beating and unnecessary sounds. everything is fine, you can go.

Remember, if the pedal twists out, breaks or is lost while driving, you are unlikely to be able to go somewhere, and the risk of injury is quite high.

Disassembly of bike pedals

The main feature of disassembling the pedals is that they have different threads.

Therefore, the right pedal is unscrewed counterclockwise, and the left pedal clockwise.

To unscrew the pedal from the connecting rod, you need a 15 wrench, which can crawl into the gap between these two parts.

After removing the pedal, disconnect the plug and unscrew the lock nut with a socket wrench. Then remove the washer and bearing cone.

The cone should be twisted carefully so as not to lose the balls. Pull out all bearing balls and set them aside.

It is important not to overturn the pedal and support the axle, which can also fall out along with the elements of the second bearing.

It is better to count the balls in order to know the exact number of elements. After that, from the opposite side, you can directly pull out the axis.

Since the balls of the second bearing can be glued to it on the old grease, you need to be careful. It is advisable to perform an operation on some kind of rag so that the dropped balls do not roll away.

The balls of the first and second bearing should not be confused, so put them in different places to know the position of each individual element.

Having disassembled the structure, proceed to cleaning. You can remove old grease with ordinary rags and WD-40, which can soften the stuck grease without damaging the parts.

Types and structure of bicycle pedals

Before proceeding with self-repair, you need to get general information about the types and structure of this seemingly simple element of the bike. Conventionally, bicycle pedals are divided into ordinary (traditional) designs, contact ones designed for special shoes, as well as combined ones, combining both types. one plane is ordinary, the other is for special sneakers. All types are structurally almost the same and consist of the following elements:

  • the axis is the basis of the entire element, which is a pin made of metal, screwed into the connecting rod;
  • platform. a part directly in contact with the cyclist’s leg, attached to the axle;
  • bearings. elements that provide a movable (do not impede rotation) connection between the axle and the platform;
  • additional parts. bolts, nuts, guaranteeing reliable fixation of all components of the pedal.

Having received information about the structure of this element of the bicycle, you can proceed directly to the repair.

Important! Before proceeding with the repair of the left or right pedal, it is necessary to prepare the corresponding tool. You will need a small adjustable wrench to get to the nut without interference. Puller and pedal wrench: the first is for contact types, the second is for non-standard nuts. Both tools are usually supplied with.

How to remove the pedals

  • Creak;
  • Difficulty rotating;
  • Full pedal stopper.

If you find yourself showing signs of a lack of lubrication, do not postpone the procedure. over, the operation does not require special skills and is quite simple.

Since the pedal hub is the same on all types, consider the general procedure that applies to all models.

How to find a puncture site.

Inspect the outside of the tire carefully. To make it easier to remember the already inspected areas. take the camera nipple as the starting point and walk from it clockwise or counterclockwise.

Check the sidewalls of the tire for scratches, cuts or holes.

How to Repair a Bicycle Pump

Pull out shards of glass, iron wire, remove small stones from the protector and, in general, any dirt that interferes with the view.

Even if you find a thing that could have caused a puncture, keep checking. sometimes you can find several suspicious objects that will stick out of the tire.

Useful tips for finding and gluing patches:

We mount the tire on the wheel.

After completing points n5 and n6, it’s time to put the tire back on the wheel. Lead it with one edge into the rim.

Adjust the tire with your fingers. Avoid pinching the tube between the rim and tire.

Inflate the tube slightly and insert it into the tire, starting with the nipple. Begin to set the tire on the opposite side of the nipple by lifting the cord over the edge of the rim with your fingers until it snaps into place.

Do not try to push the tube into the tire using the paddles. there is a good chance of piercing it. The last piece of the camera can be shoved inside using the nipple: press on it with your finger. it will go inside the rim and pull the camera along.

It is better to pull the tire on the rim only by hand. If there is not enough strength, place the tire on the floor, hold the wheel with your foot, and try to roll the tire cord over the rim with your hands. In this case, you can use gloves so as not to damage your palms.

Puncture: repair and replacement of bicycle cameras | over bumps

Punctures are quite common, especially if it’s time to change tires or if you’re not only riding on asphalt. Although on it you can find a lot of everything that can cause a puncture. Remember that you should never ride on a flat tire. you will kill a tire and rim, and replacing them will cost several times more than replacing a camera. In addition, it is not at all difficult to glue the camera, which you will soon see.

First, make sure you actually puncture the wheel. To do this, pump it up and see if the nipple is leaking. If this is the case, tighten it tightly (it didn’t help. you will have to change the camera). Someone may say it’s easier to change right away, a new one costs only 50 rubles! But such a new one will be worse than the old one. A good bicycle camera costs from 200 rubles. By the way, the patch will cost you about 1 ruble! If the nipple is in order, and the wheel is deflated quite quickly and noisily, then it will not be difficult to determine by ear the place of the air outlet.

If the rear wheel is punctured, place the chain on the smallest sprocket at the back (to make it easier to assemble later). If your muantine bike has a v-brake, then you need to open it by bringing the brake levers together with your hand and removing the metal arcuate tip of the shirt from the groove, from which the cable comes out (see the picture). Then turn the bike over. Better to put rags under the steering wheel and under the seat so that nothing gets dirty or scratched. If the wheel is bolted, loosen with suitable wrenches. If it is attached normally, unscrew the eccentric; for this, bend the lever and turn the nut on the opposite side (you can not completely unscrew it). And remove the wheel. The rear wheel can be removed more easily if you bend the rear derailleur tab so that the roller closest to the cassette stars does not press against them. You will see that if this is not done, the eccentric of the wheel hub will rest against just this place.

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Pump up the camera so that it slightly increases in size and, pouring water into the sink, gradually scan the entire surface of the camera underwater for holes. The hole in the chamber will immediately be seen by a thin stream of bubbles coming out of it. Having found one, do not rest on your laurels, check the entire chamber so that you do not have to do everything again.

A leaky chamber can appear not only from a puncture, but also from a breakdown. You can pierce the bike chamber by bumping into a large pothole, rail or curb at speed. In this case, on the camera you will find not one, but 2 holes at once, in the form of short parallel cuts. Thus, you can easily have a figure eight on the wheel. To prevent this from happening, in addition to failing to perform the above actions, it will help to pump the wheels harder (3-4 atmospheres), but pay attention to the permissible maximum tire pressure, you cannot pump above it!

If the camera is punctured, then carefully inspect the tire at the puncture site to see if the perpetrator of the puncture remains. It can be glass, wire, self-tapping screw, or any other sharp and thin object. Don’t search with your finger! Otherwise, you run the risk of sticking not only the camera, but also yourself. Take a spoon, for example, and run it over the inside of the tire. It will be easier to search if you notice at what distance from the nipple the hole and check the tire there. It is necessary to find the puncture site on the tire so that the camera does not turn out to be punctured by the same object again, standing in its place. If there is nothing in the hole, move on.

It so happened that the hole is not on the outside of the chamber, but on the inside. then inspect the rim. If your bike has single rims, it is possible that the tube is punctured by a spoke. Make sure that there is nothing sharp on the rim and that the flipper is intact (a special rubber band that covers the ends of the spokes on the rim). Replace the flipper if it is torn. It just does not break, find what could break it on the rim and align it with a file. But this happens extremely rarely and is associated with a factory defect, which was not noticed when assembling the wheel.

It is best to use an old cycle tube to seal the hole. Cut out a small circle from it, 1.5-2 cm in diameter (if the hole is large or after punching 2 very close, then even 3 cm). But remember that the larger the patch, the worse it will hold. Sand the puncture site and patch with a fine sandpaper (the rougher the surface, the better it will adhere). It is more convenient to sand the patch before you cut it out! Degrease the sanded surfaces with alcohol or vodka. It is convenient to do this with cotton swabs, because they leave no fibers. Do not blow to dry. exhaled moisture will impair adhesion. To make it easier to manipulate the patch and not touch its treated side, stick it on a piece of electrical tape or plaster (see picture)

Now about what is better to glue. Of the instant adhesives, the best are Super Glue Extra (HI-TECHO), Super Attak Gel (German Loctite) and Super Moment Gel (Russian Era), but in order to glue them, you need to have a certain skill. not to shift the glue and apply the patch precisely, firmly and press quickly. Only the patch should be smeared with second and instant adhesives. How to glue them is written in detail on the package. Use them when time is running out.

It is safer to use adhesives that work after 12 and 24 hours. Among the daily allowances, the best glue is 88-CA, Master, Sprut and 88-NT are also quite good. Among those that dry in 12 hours, Radical glue is excellent. But unfortunately, it is rarely possible to find something other than the Moment in various variations, but it will do. Any of these adhesives should be applied a thin, even layer to the patch and camera, around the hole. Apply a spot of glue to the camera a couple of centimeters larger than the diameter of the patch. it will be easier to get into 🙂 Some glues need to be dried before pressing the glued surfaces, which is indicated on the package. And then put a patch on the hole (try to keep the hole under the center of the patch), cover it with a piece of paper on top (so that the paper sticks, not the press) and put it under the press. It is convenient, for example, to press the camera with a clamp to some flat surface (window sill, board).

And that’s it! After 12 or 24 hours (depending on the glue), try gently tearing off the patch. Is it holding on? Insert the camera back into the wheel, starting with the nipple. Tuck the tire into the rim, taking care not to get the tube between them. If you cannot fully refuel the tire, use a mounting or eccentric lever. Put the wheel on the bike, tighten the eccentric or gulls. If you have a v-brake, do not forget to close it so as not to be left without a brake, it may need to be adjusted. Inflate the wheel slightly and with your hands remember the tire well along its entire length so that the camera fits well. Now you can pump the wheel to the end.

There are many first-aid kits with express camera patches on sale now. They cost almost all 100-150 rubles, in sets of 6 patches. Topeak TGP01 first aid kit is preferable in terms of reliability and ease of use.

If it so happens that you puncture the wheel, there is no spare chamber and there is nothing to seal it with, but you have to go and there is a pump, then pump the wheel up to 5 atmospheres. This high pressure will press the tube well against the tire, preventing air from escaping strongly from the hole, and will allow you to reach your destination. The main thing is not to forget later that the camera is still full of holes 🙂 And it is better to always have a spare camera with you.

Enjoy your ride and fewer punctures! If you do not want to look for and seal holes in the wheels, we recommend using Maxxis bicycle cameras, in our opinion, the most impenetrable and puncture-resistant of the entire range, but quite tangible in weight (the one in the picture weighs 300 g).

All articles in the section are about mountain bike repair, cleaning and lubrication. about the author

Pump.

Never go on the road without a compact pump.

You should always have a miniature pump in your it’s convenient. but at home it is more advisable to keep a large floor pump that will fill as much pressure as needed in a matter of seconds.

Do not forget to periodically check the tires for cuts in the tread, bumps on the walls or if the tire is worn out. A tire with multiple cuts up to the cord, or with a deep cut or bumps must be replaced. You should also remove the stuck glass fragments, wires, etc.

Check the pressure regularly with a working pressure gauge. Tires that are operated at the correct pressure will puncture less often and last longer.

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Have you ever deflated a tire at the most inopportune moment while cycling?

To avoid troubles on the way and avoid such moments, pay attention to the following tips:

Now let’s find out how to quickly fix a puncture if you don’t have the necessary tools at hand:

    Remove the wheel with the punctured tube. If you don’t have a spade, use a wrench;

Remove the rubber. Remove the tire and the old tube;

Inflate a new tube or pump up slightly and insert it over the rim;

Slide the tire onto the wheel rim. Press your fingers on the top edge of the tire above the rim. Work from your side first. When you are almost done, turn the tire so that you can push it away. By the end of the second side, it will be a little tight, but if you press, using force, you will be able to finally put it on;

Inflate the wheel, ride, repeat the above procedure if necessary. Find a high pressure bicycle pump;

  • Avoid places where the wheel could be punctured. Watch carefully for broken glass, sharp objects, etc.
  • Floor pumps

    Also known as automotive pumps. During operation, the user rests the base of this unit on the floor, steps with his feet on the base, pulls and pushes the handle at full speed. The connecting hose is screwed to the chamber through a one-way valve installed in the head or inside the auto pump.

    It is very convenient to use such a product, since it has a fixed stop in the ground, and you can grasp its handle with both hands.

    Air Shock Absorber Pumps

    A separate type, not related to inflating the wheels, is the high-pressure pump. It is directly related to bike accessories, as it is the only one that can inflate the front fork’s air shock. It is impossible to do this with a conventional pump, but you can only finally bleed the air from the shock absorber.

    By the way, a pump designed for a bicycle fork can also inflate the wheels. it has a hose with a threaded connection for a Schrader nipple. But they will have to work for a long time, because it is primarily needed to pump a small shock absorber cylinder, and not a wheel chamber, of a much larger volume.

    High pressure pump start at 30. for good bicycle tire inflating pumps start at 20 and go up to about 30.

    Which is the best pump for a bike?

    The bicycle pump is a separate type of positive displacement auto pump specially designed for inflating bicycle tires. It can have two heads or an adapter to connect to one of the two most common types of bicycle nipples. Schrader or Presta. The third type of nipple is called the Woods valve (also called Dunlop), a bicycle tube with such a valve can be filled with a pump with a Presta head.

    There are several main varieties of bicycle pumps:

    • Floor-standing or automotive;
    • Fixed to the frame;
    • Hand-held or compact;
    • Foot;
    • Double acting.

    The basic design of every bicycle pump is such that it can only function with a hand-operated piston. During the upstroke, this piston draws in air from the outside through an opening in the housing. During the next downstroke, the piston moves air from the pump to the bike chamber. Most floor pumps, also commonly referred to as automotive pumps, have a built-in pressure gauge to indicate the pressure in the chamber.

    The electric pump is primarily designed to inflate car tires (as in most garages), but can in principle be used to inflate bicycle tires if the right type of coupling head is available. Some models of electric pumps cut off the inflation until a suitable pressure is reached (for a bicycle tire it is significantly higher than for a car tire), and the bicycle tire remains very weakly inflated.

    Other models may not cut off inflation, but they provide too high a flow rate, which is needed to quickly fill a large car tire. There is a risk of over-inflating and bursting the tire of the bicycle if the powerful electric pump is not stopped within a fraction of a second after starting to build up pressure.

    Hand pumps

    There are two main types: with a hose and with an integrated head.

    The hose pump has a separate tubing for connection to the chamber nipple. These devices have the advantage of being cheap but ineffective compared to other types. They have many connections through which air can escape.

    Pumps with an integrated head have a rubber insert in the side hole, which is needed to seal the nipple in a circle. Often, when connected, such a tab is crimped using a lever on the head. Since this elastic seals well, connects rigidly, and so that a hose is not needed, this type of product is very effective. An 8 “integral will generally pump the wheel faster than an 18” hose pump. But working with an integral type of pump, without holding it with your free hand, there is a risk of pulling the nipple out of the chamber, especially the Presta design.

    The simplest hand pump has a cup-shaped plastic or felt piston. When moving forward, the air presses the walls of this cup, just as tightly against the cylinder as the check valve. This piston can only push the air forward to the outlet at the opposite end.

    The most efficient pumps are double-acting. Their piston is sealed on both sides in the cylinder and can force air into the tire during both strokes. forward and backward.

    The small pump can be mounted on a frame bracket, on a clamp or screw, or on a soldered hanger, and can also be carried in a basket or bag on a bicycle, as well as in a backpack or cyclist’s

    Pumps carried on a bicycle are often quite small so as not to be heavy. But due to their small size, the amount of air they can supply is much understated compared to the floor-standing options. So it takes quite a lot of taps to pump up the wheel.

    CO2 cartridges

    Gas-filled bicycle cans are of unknown origin, but appear to have emerged between the two world wars. One story has it that they were invented like this: One cyclist, after watching the owner of a cafe refuel bottles of beer, asked him to fill one bottle with carbon dioxide for himself.

    The cans use liquefied gas, which cannot be pumped at home. The later versions, which have the greatest success, use cartridges originally sold for carbonating drinks. The inserted cartridge is punched by a lever, and the released gas is always enough to inflate one bicycle tire.

    Modern gas cartridges are often used by mountain or road bike riders to keep weight low and save time when punctured during the race. This can be a disposable balloon or a pump with a replaceable cartridge. Most use standard 16 gram carbon dioxide. CO2 threaded cylinders.

    Carbon dioxide flows out through the rubber walls more intensively than air. Despite the fact that the CO2 molecules are large, they are weakly retained by the rubber, and after a few days the inflated wheel can become completely flat.

    Bicycle pump types

    If you ask yourself how to choose a pump for a bicycle, then their variety is limited to the main types.

    There are three main types of bicycle pumps.

    • Floor.
    • Manual.
    • Foot.

    Electric pumps

    12-volt air compressors designed for car tires are also compatible with bicycle tires. A portable car starter battery can be used to power these units. Even custom 12-volt homemade electrical circuits, which are primarily made for bicycle lighting, can sometimes be used to power these pumps if they have a cigarette lighter socket.

    The main advantage of electric pumps is that the latest models take up less space than hand or foot versions. In fact, there will be plenty of space in the electric pump basket. This makes them suitable for use on well-equipped e-bikes.