Correct gear shifting is determined by one main rule, the observance of which is very important. when driving, you need to make sure that the chain does not twist. This can happen if the chain is engaged at opposite extreme positions of the chainrings and chainrings. With this arrangement of the chain, it clings to all possible and impossible obstacles, is exposed to uneven load and wears out much faster.
Here are some tips to help you switch gears correctly:
- Better not to switch gears when driving downhill. The first thing that will happen to you is the loss of your riding rhythm, which will affect your stamina and movement speed, respectively. This is also not worth doing, since when going uphill, the chain tension is already quite high, and if at the same time throwing the chain between the stars Such actions will have a detrimental effect on the resource of parts, and, soon, a breakdown may follow. So you need to switch gears before lifting, at the moment of the greatest relaxation of the chain.
- A huge number of cyclists rarely use the front derailleur on their bike. It is difficult to answer why it happened so, but, nevertheless, it is a fact. It is much more efficient to use forward gear when driving on a road that sharply changes its slope. One shift on the chainrings, in this case, will have more effect than two or three changes on the rear. Just put the chain in the back on the middle sprocket and shift with the front.
- When a fairly serious descent is planned on your way, then, again, switch gears before starting to go down. This is due to the fact that when the process of driving downward begins, it is better not to be distracted from the brakes, and you will need to follow the road especially carefully, because falling on the descent is an unpleasant thing.
- Gear shifting should be smooth. There should be no rumbling, rattling, knocking or other extraneous sounds. If you follow this, then the gearshift system will serve you for a much longer time.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT SPEEDS OF THE BIKE
You need to adjust the forward speeds in about the same way, there is nothing difficult there, and at the level of intuition you can figure it out, therefore, we will consider only some points. The chain runs along the chainrings with a metal stop that can be adjusted with two bolts. The principle is the same, so, as mentioned earlier, there is nothing complicated about it. And, again, in order not to suffer again with the setting, switch the speeds correctly, as described above.
ADJUSTMENT AND ADJUSTMENT
Sooner or later, any bike enthusiast begins to notice that the gearshift system emits extraneous sounds, such as crunching, rumbling, and so on. It happens that during a gear change, the chain jumps a couple of sprockets or the opposite situation: you cannot switch to the required sprocket. So what’s the deal? You just do not have gear shifting configured. So how do you set your bike speeds? Let’s try to figure it out.
The gearshift setting can get lost due to the fact that you are not familiar with the gearshift rules and are switching them incorrectly. Or your gearshift system is simply too dirty and needs to be flushed out. But the reasons are a separate conversation, and we will focus on setting.
We will not go into the nuances of professional tuning. professional cyclists are unlikely to search for speed settings on the network. Therefore, let’s move on to a short course on speed tuning:
- Fix your bike upside down (using a special stand or simply placing it on the handlebars and seat). The speed setting is carried out using special bolts on the switch.
- Now you need to set the chain to the leftmost positions (on the large chainring and small rear). After that, unscrew the part that serves to fix the cable to completely unhook the cable.
- Now, tightening one of the bolts on the gear selector, you need to adjust the two gears so that they are opposite one another. You will know which bolt to turn by the H or High mark next to it. What does high speed mean?
- After that, we install the chain in the rightmost positions of both stars (on the largest rear and smallest in front). We adjust the gears again with the second screw, which is marked L or Low. Installing stars in one line.
- Now, you need to install the chain on the middle sprockets at the front and rear and adjust the gear shifting as precisely as possible using a screw, called a wing, and located directly on top of the cable. It must be remembered that our goal is to ensure that the middle gears are opposite one another. Before you start twisting the lamb, it is better to perform a test drive, which will give an idea of how difficult it is to switch or, conversely, too easy.
HOW TO CHANGE SPEEDS ON A BIKE?
Any cyclist should know how to switch speeds on a bicycle and how to adjust them. Just stick to some simple rules to make your cycling comfortable and efficient. Plus, your derailleurs will last longer and save you money.
When we were little, there was no trace of speed on the bike, and no one thought about it. We just pedaled and the bike just moved. But today the simplest model of a bicycle is necessarily equipped with a certain number of speeds and has two brakes. At the same time, many people think they know how to switch speeds on a bicycle. But, in fact, it is not as easy as it seems at first glance.
However, the gear shifter is the heart of the transmission system and, for the most part, it is he who is responsible for the quality of gear shifting. Today, a limited number of companies are involved in the production of high-quality derailleurs, and the most popular among them is the Japanese giant. Shimano.
To make it more convenient for customers, all Shimano derailleurs are divided into groups. Let’s dwell on each of them in order:
- Shimano Tourney is the easiest beginner derailleur. They are distinguished by their low cost and high reliability. Bicycles equipped with components of this class are designed to be used at a leisurely pace on the track or on tightly packed ground. This Shimano derailleur cell needs constant adjustment and starts to fail if too much dirt gets on it. Fits Shimano 2300 Road Group.
- Shimano Altus / Acera is also the entry-level equipment. But Acera derailleurs are already installed on bicycles designed for use in sand and mud, naturally only at the amateur level. For those people who, for whatever reason, cannot get more expensive options and ride both on the ground and on asphalt, this type of Shimano derailleur is ideal. Fits Shimano Sora Road Group.
- Shimano Alivio. This group of equipment is something in between, it cannot be called professional yet, but it is no longer amateur. Equipped with Alivio derailleurs, the bikes are great for recreational riders and cycling trips. This Shimano derailleur group is reliable and unpretentious. The price-performance ratio in this group of switches is implemented most successfully. Fits Shimano Tiagra Road Group.
- Shimano Deore is a professional line of derailleurs, but if you look at things soberly, the differences from the Alivio are not so great. All that changes is the indicators of lightness and reliability, they get a little better, but the price rises significantly. Fits Shimano 105 Road Group.
- Shimano Deore SLX and XT are lightweight and reliable professional equipment. The reliability of the Deore SLX / XT derailleurs is eloquently reflected in the cost: the price of a Shimano Alivio rear derailleur is about 45. and the Deore costs between 90 and 110. Ideal for professional athletes to train every day. Fits Road Groups. Shimano Ultegra and Ultegra Di2.
- The Shimano Deore XTR is the ultimate racing equipment. Not afraid of any stress. Extremely expensive. Fits Shimano Dura-Ace Road Group.
Shimano doesn’t just make derailleurs for mountain and road bikes. There are many derailleurs available for touring, city and adventure bikes. But we do not consider them, since these bicycles are not popular in the CIS.
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The main stages of the rear toggle switch option, a detailed description of possible problems and features.
Before proceeding with the adjustment of the rear toggle switch, make sure that it is not bent. The rear toggle switch is one of the most fragile and protruding parts, large, which is often subject to impact.
After the impact, the rear toggle is bent inward towards the spokes. In some cases, it can get directly into the spokes of the wheel. If this happens, then, in the best case, the speed toggle switch itself breaks down, or rather its holder. the cockerel. In the worst case, several spokes also break together with it, then there is a risk of losing the rear wheel completely. There is, however, an even more difficult case when the frame is not armed with a rooster. Then the toggle switch is so very twisted by the knitting needles that the dropout bends, and this already leads to the breakage of the frame itself.
You can find out whether the cockerel is bent by looking at the speed switch from behind. The two swivel rollers must be in the same plane. In other words, the chain going from the 1st roller to the other must go strictly vertically without any distortions.
Some cyclists, faced with the problem of a bent cock, try to correct the position, trying to straighten it by bending the toggle switch in the opposite direction. But due to the fact that the toggle switch frame is the weakest part of it, the result is, as before, a crooked cock and, in addition, a bent speed toggle switch.
The best way to straighten the bracket is by removing it from the bike frame.
There is, however, a special tool for straightening the cock, which is attached to it instead of a toggle switch and provides sufficient lever force for straightening. With all this, a special control pointer indicates how exactly the bracket is vertically positioned.
It should be noted here that many Campagnolo toggle switches have a tilted frame. the lower tensioner roller is located a little further from the wheel in comparison with the guide roller.
Two special screws that limit the movement of the speed toggle switch to the largest and the smallest gears. Usually, the stop screws are located at the back of the parallelogram. These screws with their ends at the physical level restrict the movement of the toggle switch to the side and prevent the chain from slipping off. Thus, by loosening the limiters, the toggle switch moves a greater distance; tightening the screws, its movement is limited.
Usually, the stop screws are adjusted at the new toggle switch and then do not turn back to adjust them. If, nevertheless, there is a need for this, then most likely either the toggle switch itself or the cockerel will be bent. But one way or another, as a temporary solution to the obstacle, this method is completely suitable.
On modern toggle switches, the screws are designated by the Latin letters H (English high) for large gears and L (English low) for low gears. The old derailers did not have such designations, since the ends of the screws were clearly visible. For example, when switching to oversized gears, it was obvious to see which of the screws rests on the toggle switch mechanism, it was screw H.
The adjusting screws are not very sensitive, so you can safely turn one turn or half a turn at a time. The most responsible here is the low gear limiter, which prevents the chain from getting into the spokes of the rear wheel.
Let’s look at the main options of the rear toggle switch in order:
Large gear limiter (H)
The screw that limits the highest gears prevents the chain from jumping off the smallest gear and getting stuck between it and the dropout. In general, when using modern index toggle switches, the chain will most likely not come off from a small star due to a stretched cable. A very tight stop screw will prevent the smallest sprocket from being used.
Shifting tasks to the highest gears are rarely related to how the corresponding limiter is set. Almost always the discrepancy is associated with a bent rooster or a toggle switch or with a difficult cable run.
For this option, loosen the cable tension, tighten the adjusting drums to the end on the speed toggle switch itself and on the lever, and also put the stars in the highest gear position: a large star in front and a small one in the back.
The setting is so that the rollers of the toggle switch lie in the same plane with the smallest star.
By turning the adjusting screw H clockwise, the frame moves towards the huge stars; counterclockwise. outward.
After adjustment, it is necessary to very much tighten and secure the cable.
Low gear limiter (L)
The limiting screw for low gears prevents the chain from shifting beyond the boundaries of the large sprocket and getting it into the spokes. In other words, if the screw is not tightened enough, it can lead to disaster. Otherwise, if you drag it, it will be virtually unrealistic to switch to the largest star.
For this option, put the gears in the lowest gear position: a small sprocket in front and a large one at the back, also very unscrew the adjusting screw L to prevent any restriction of the toggle switch movement.
For the correct option, you need to align the rollers and a huge star.
Turning the screw L clockwise, the toggle switch frame moves towards the small stars; counterclockwise. towards the spokes.
Discrete toggle switches need to be configured in most cases. Corresponding clicks emanating from the shift lever correspond to a certain cable travel, which moves the toggle switch to a strictly given place.
If the toggle switch is configured correctly, then you only have to adjust it off-the-shelf, depending on the pulling of the cable (wear) or after replacing it.
The adjustment takes place at the expense of a special adjusting drum, which is located at one of the ends of the cable. Some drum tumblers may have two: near the toggle switch and in a place where it can be adjusted while driving. On mountain bikes, the 2nd adjusting drum is located near the shift lever, on road bikes it can be placed in the upper part of the lower tube, near the stop of the cable shirt.
There is no difference as to which specific adjusting drum to use.
Before starting the tuning, you need to shift to the highest gear (small sprocket) and make sure that the shift lever is in its last position.
Then we make the 1st click and start pedaling forward. The chain should move one position higher. If this does not happen, then the cable is very loose. Accordingly, it is necessary to turn the adjusting drum counterclockwise. It is better to create the adjustment in half-turn increments. For beginners, over-tightening the adjusting drum is a common mistake. From time to time, as a result, the entire chain of switching shifts. over, over the entire spectrum, switching is as it were normal, but in one of the latter it does not work correctly. That is why, in principle, at first, adjust the 1st two steps of the toggle switch.
Fine tuning is based on the following principles:
Shifting to huge stars is controlled by cable tension;
If such shifts are slow, then the cable is not tight enough. it is necessary to turn the adjusting drum counterclockwise.
Shifting to small stars is regulated by loosening the cable.
If such shifts are slow, then the cable is not loosened enough. it is necessary to turn the adjusting drum clockwise.
If the rear toggle switch works properly on a large leading star, but at the same time it switches incorrectly on the small one (or vice versa), this is the first sign that the cockerel is bent.
Tensioner adjuster (B-tension)
Modern toggle switches have two spring-loaded levers. The lower one, also called A-pivot, raises the toggle switch frame up when switching to small stars. Top B-pivot provides reversal movement of the frame towards the large star.
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The spring tension of both levers must be balanced to ensure correct gear shifting.
It is almost always possible to adjust the spring tension of the upper arm B of the toggle switch parallelogram using a special adjustment screw, in Shimano terminology referred to as the B-tension adjuster.
In other words, the height of the guide roller or the angle of inclination of the chain from this roller to the sprocket is practically regulated. In this regard, in the English-language literature, you can come across a mention of setting a specific angle of the chain (English angle adjustment).
Tuning is done by setting the chain to the largest sprocket of the cassette, in other words to the lowest gear. When the screw is loosened, the idler roller moves upward, approaching the sprocket, increasing the chain tension (lowering the chain angle), thereby improving the quality of shifting. Obviously, the roller should not touch the gear. The gap should be approximately 5 mm.
This adjustment must be done again when changing the cassette stars or when changing the chain length.
Campagnolo Rear Toggle Switches
Beginning in 2001, all Campagnolo toggle switch models have been set to the A-tension adjustment of the lever spring. In fact, this setting is the exact opposite of the above B-tension adjustment: loosening the spring of lever A achieves the same result as tightening the spring of lever B.
Steering wheel switches
The switches here are exactly the same as on the rear wheel. They are absolutely no different, and even located exactly the same.
How to tighten the gearshift cable on a bicycle
It must be said right off the bat that the hardest thing to tune is old, worn out switches. The cheapest spreaders made of low quality material wear out very quickly. After years of operation, so much material is produced in the joints of their mechanisms that backlashes are already becoming noticeable. Large wiggles in the rear derailleur will prevent you from adjusting to at least remove loud crackling noise when driving.
Adjusting the gearshift switches is not a difficult job to be addressed by a mechanic. You will not be able to break the gearshift mechanism, the index system for changing speeds is the simplest and most reliable of all.
Reasons for the malfunction of the rear spreader
How to fine-tune the rear derailleur
The most important factor when adjusting a switch is accuracy. You can fine-tune it as described at the beginning of the article, but during implementation you need to pay special attention not only to the adjusting screws, but also to the entire mechanism as a whole.
Cables and shirts
The cables for the front derailleur differ from the derailleur on the rear in that they can be slightly shorter, or even slightly thinner. And shirts are also divided into three types, and each shirt has its own cable.
Chains and sprockets
Sometimes the cause of a problematic gear change is already the extreme wear of the chain drive. Long driving at prohibited speed combinations leads to increased lateral wear of the chain and sprockets. Do not ride in positions where the chain is very skewed: on the smallest sprocket in front and behind and on the largest front and rear sprocket.
There are times when the new rear sprocket cassette is skewed onto the rear wheel hub, as many people buy the cheapest bike parts. And often, in order to eliminate the wobbling of the sprocket cassette, it is enough to adjust it by removing one or two adjusting rings inside the ratchet mechanism.
Chain tensioner rollers
tensioners are part of a mechanism that provides high-quality chain tension during gear changes or while the bike itself is moving. Without it, the chain will not keep at the same level, which will not allow you to pedal or switch gears.
Rear derailleur setting
It is convenient to lubricate, adjust and repair chain drive units with the rear wheel raised. To do this, you can tilt the bike, leaning on the side stand, hang the bike on hooks or an ironing board, ask a friend for help. A rear wheel stand will help out well in this situation.
- clean the derailleur and sprocket cassette well;
- place the chain at the front on the middle sprocket and at the back on the smallest sprocket.
The rear spreader must be cleaned to properly set up. Namely: clean the tensioner rollers from dirty grease, remove the blades of grass and sticks from the cassette of sprockets, wash and lubricate the chain. Even after this simple work, the switch starts to work much better.
- screw in the tension screws on the rear spreader and at the shifter all the way;
- pull the cable out of the retaining screw.
It is not necessary to completely remove the cable from the bike, but it will not hurt to inspect it for damage and lubricate.
Setting the travel limit to the smallest sprocket: crouch at the back of the bike and turn the adjusting screw H, set the spreader to the position in which its rollers and the smallest sprocket in the cassette will be on the same straight mowing line.
There is one trick here: if the spreader is no longer new, and it staggers, then you can adjust it more or less accurately only by placing the frame not along a straight mowing line, but literally moving a hair to the right, away from the wheel.
If the setting is done correctly, then when the wheel rotates, the chain does not try to jump to the side and works silently.
- we fix the cable with a mounting bolt, pulling the cable not with pliers, but by hand;
- we tighten the cable by rotating the hollow screw with a drum, so that the spreader easily switches from one sprocket to another and back with one click and pressing the shifter.
It is enough to adjust the transition only between two adjacent stars, and the shift will be adjusted on all the sprockets of the cassette. This is the advantage of the index gear change system.
If there is a groove for the cable in the clamp, then make sure that it hits exactly in it, and does not get squeezed, being fixed incorrectly.
Setting the travel limit to the largest sprocket:
- we loosen the adjusting screw L so that it does not interfere with the movement of the spreader;
- turning the pedals, we throw the chain to the largest sprocket at the back;
- by turning the adjusting screw L, we align the spreader in the position when its rollers and the largest sprocket of the cassette are exactly on the same mowing line.
Again, if your bike has a knobby derailleur, then it is advisable to shift its frame a little when setting up from the straight mowing line, but towards the wheel. Sometimes this is just a little bit is not enough for the wobbly derailleur to throw the chain onto the largest sprocket in the back.
- we transfer the chain to the smallest sprocket in the front and the largest in the back;
- if, when the chain rotates, the upper tensioner roller touches the sprocket in the cassette, then tighten the chain tension screw. It is necessary to set the gap between them, approximately equal to 5 mm;
- we move the chain to the largest sprocket in the front and the smallest at the back and check the chain tension in this position.
When to tune the gearshift system?
As a rule, the speed adjustment is carried out in the following cases.
- You bought a new system element and installed it on your bike.
- You have a new bike that was not configured from the box.
- Any element of the gearshift system is out of order.
- The bike has a lot of mileage, and the system does not work out the way it should.
The setup process must be started with preparation.
How to adjust the front derailleur?
The setup procedure is based on the following diagram.
- Set the bike speeds so that the chain is on the largest sprocket at the front and the smallest sprocket at the back.
- We release the cable coming from the shift knob by unscrewing the corresponding bolt.
- Adjust the screw L so that the chain, when the wheels rotate, moves as close as possible to the inner frame of the switch, but does not touch it.
- We tighten the screw H in the same way, but now we look so that the chain is as close to the outer frame as possible, but also does not touch it when rotating.
- We pull the transfer cable back.
- After that, we proceed to setting up the chain transfer. This will require adjustment of a special drum on the shifter. In a practical way, throwing the chain from star to star, we are looking for a position in which this procedure will work out as quickly and smoothly as possible.
On average, such a procedure will take an inexperienced master from 30 to 60 minutes of time. But that’s not all. for normal operation of the shifting system, the reverse speeds must also be adjusted.
How to adjust your bike’s gear shifting?
The gear shifting system is not only one of the most important but also the most vulnerable parts of a bicycle. With regular riding, its adjustment should be carried out at least once every 400-500 km (about 2-4 months of driving). In this article, we will talk about how to set up the derailleur on your bike yourself.
Before adjusting, it is better to completely clean the system of adhering dirt, remnants of old lubricants and other contaminants. In addition, it is better to pre-inspect all elements for any damage and, if any, prepare spare parts for replacement.
In addition, we recommend that you prepare all the necessary tools in advance:
- Hex key set.
You can now start adjusting the bike speeds.
How to adjust the rear derailleur on a bike?
The rear derailleur is set as follows:
- We set the speed on the bike in such a way that the chain is on the smallest star.
- Loosen the shift cable by unscrewing the clamp screw located on the rear derailleur.
- Using the front derailleur, install the chain on the middle sprocket of the front carriage.
- We start to pedal. If the chain starts to fall off during movement, tighten the upper gear limiter screw, which is indicated by the letter H. Ultimately, the smallest star on the front carriage and the crossover should become one line.
- Tighten the cable and fix it with the bolt.
- We check the operation of the switch, changing the speed from the lowest to the highest. If somewhere the switching is carried out incorrectly, you need to adjust the tension of the cable by turning a special drum on the shifter.
Be sure to remember that any actions with the cables are best done slowly and very carefully. When tightening or loosening the bolts, do not make more than one turn at a time.
How to Extend the Life of Speed Derailleurs?
Unfortunately, you will not be able to completely avoid maintenance and adjusting the derailleur. you will have to do this procedure regularly, no matter with what intensity and in what style you ride. But there are a couple of tips that will allow you to postpone this moment, keeping the system working for the longest possible period.
- Switch speeds on the bike only while moving. this will reduce wear on the system elements.
- It is better to change the speed at a high pedaling speed. this will minimize the load on the chain and other elements.
- Better to shift into proper gear before descending or ascending. adjusting speeds when driving on an incline will wear out the system.
- Try to exclude strong distortions of the chain. this will shorten its service life. So, for example, in 24-speed systems, the 1st small star in the front should correspond to the 1-4th at the rear, the 2nd star in the front should correspond to the 4th-6th at the rear, and the 3rd star should correspond to the 6-8th at the rear.
By following these simple rules, you can extend the maintenance-free life of your gearshift system on your bike.
As a summary, I would like to note that gear tuning is not an easy task and not everyone will be able to cope at the proper level. Therefore, if you are not 100% confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust this matter to a professional!
Fine tuning the bike’s rear derailleur
If the speed switch is set correctly, then during its operation you will have to adjust it only slightly, due to stretching or replacement of the cable.
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The adjustment is made with an adjusting drum located on the shifter, on the speed switch itself (for mountain bikes) or on the top of the lower frame tube, near the shirt stop (for road bikes) of the cable on some switches there may be two drums. Adjustment can be done with any adjusting drum, it makes no difference which one to use.
Before tuning, shift the shifter to the highest gear (small sprocket), make sure the shift lever is in its full position.
Next, switch the shifter to the next speed and pedal forward. The chain should move to the next sprocket. If the chain does not cross, then the cable is not tight, turn the adjusting drum counterclockwise and the cable will be taut. Turn the drum half a turn and try changing the speed again. Be careful, if you overtighten the drum, the entire shift chain can shift, as a result, the gears will shift normally, but there will be malfunctions in the extreme positions. Therefore, first of all set up the first two switching steps.
Adjusting the transfer quality
The answer to the question of how to adjust the smoothness of gear shifting on a bicycle is quite simple. By rotating the adjusting drum, a dead zone is found, in which the movement of the dereiler, both from upper to lower gears, and vice versa, will occur instantly and without delays. By twisting the drum, the switch will move more efficiently from small to large stars. When spinning the drum, the exact opposite dynamics is observed.
For your information. After adjusting the transmission, you should check the quality of functioning of the components under load. Most likely, you will need to adjust the cable tension using an adjusting drum!
Guide to Action: How to Adjust Bike Speeds with Front and Rear Dealers
The gearshift module, capable of providing a comfortable gear ratio in all riding conditions, is the most vulnerable system on a bicycle. Smooth and fast operation of the rear and front derailleurs, depending on the operating conditions, is observed only for several tens to hundreds of kilometers, after which a qualified adjustment of the units is required. How this article will be useful to the reader and what we will find in it:
Adjusting the transfer quality
It is a key operation in the process of how to adjust the rear speed range of both road and mountain bikes. The process technology is simple: the smallest sprockets are installed in the front and rear; by rotating the adjusting drum, they ensure that the transfer is triggered clearly and instantly:
- in case of insufficient tension of the cable, the switch poorly (slowly) switches to lower gears (large sprockets). it is necessary to turn the drum counterclockwise;
- with excessive tension. the derailer stays in the same position (it does not move well into the upper gears. small stars), emitting a clatter (metal clanks) during operation (the drum must be turned clockwise).
Low gear limiter adjustment (L)
The procedure is performed in the following sequence:
- the chain is installed on the largest sprocket in the front and the smallest in the back;
- the cable is disconnected from the dereiler;
- by rotating the screw L, it is necessary to ensure that the chain, when rotating the pedals, moves as close to the inner frame as possible, but does not touch it;
- the cable is stretched and fixed.
Tensioner adjustment (guide roller height or chain angle)
In the technology of how to adjust the rear speed on a bicycle, this adjustment is aimed, all other things being equal, to improve the quality of gear shifting.
The smallest sprocket is installed at the front, the largest at the back. By turning the screw, the idler roller approaches or moves away from the sprocket. The task is to achieve a gap between the roller and the sprocket of 3-5 mm.
Why gear shifts poorly on a bicycle
On entry-level bicycles, the transmission of the cheapest groups is installed, and when the gears begin to shift poorly and jam, the owners just shrug their shoulders. what, they say, you can take from cheap trash.
A big surprise befalls those who buy a much more expensive bike, and after a while again encounter shifting problems. The point here, of course, is not karma, but the wrong attitude to technology.
I am by no means claiming that there is no difference between starter and top-end components. Of course, the experienced cyclist with eyes closed will distinguish the Shimano Alivio from the XTR in three clicks.
But the reasons for the fuzzy operation of the transmission do not so much depend on the class of the transmission, but on its condition and settings. In this post, I will not talk about how to configure the switches, for this a separate article will be released soon, subscribe, and I will send you a notification about its publication.
Method one: repairing the brake
Place your bike on a stand so you can spin the wheels while you work. It is necessary either to put the bike on a special rack, or turn it upside down with the wheels. Pedal access will be required for proper gearshift adjustment.
Shift the mechanism to the highest (fastest) speed. This is the smallest sprocket in the rear cassette. It (the sprocket) is located farthest from the bike. The shift mechanism works together with the highest cable tension, and the fastest gear works with the least tension. Thus, the gearshift mechanism is not loaded with work and is easier to adjust When cranking the pedals, lightly apply pressure on the cable leading to the rear derailleur.
Locate the barrel adjusting nut and check the integrity of the cable attached to it. The keg is a small cylinder that connects the cable to the gearshift mechanism. Check the condition of the cable along the entire length from the rear derailleur to the steering wheel. It is the tension on this cable that stimulates the correct gear shifting. This problem is not typical, but sometimes it occurs.
Check shifts at all speeds in both directions. Pedal while changing speeds. Remember if the chain skips a gear or you need to push the lever twice to shift. Does this occur when shifting from a lower gear to an upper one or vice versa? Are there any extraneous noises or clicks?
Shift into the highest gear and start shifting until you reach the problem area as indicated above. For example, if you have difficulty shifting from 4th to 5th gear, stop at 5th. Turn the pedals, turn the adjusting nut so that the cable tension is relaxed. counterclockwise Note that if the bike is upside down, the direction of rotation of the nut is opposite to that of the chain.
Turn adjuster nut clockwise to loosen chain tension. Loosen the tension of the cables with. you make it easier to switch to a higher speed. If you downshift to a lower speed and nothing has changed, pedal at your current speed. Turn the nut clockwise until the chain clicks into place on its own. everything, the bike is fine!
Rotate the keg clockwise to help the chains lock into place. If the chain is difficult to slide into place, tighten the nut more. If the chain does not jump to another gear, continue pedaling and loosen the nut. This will relieve pressure on the mechanism, allowing the chain to slide smoothly into small gears. Continue turning the nut until the target locks into place on its own. at the speed that caused the problem to shift Loosening the nut helps if the chain jumps over two sprockets when shifting to high speeds.