How to fit bearings on a bicycle handlebar

General information

Bushings of this type were installed on almost all Soviet single-speed bicycles, as well as on classic motorbikes, up to and including MB-18. Old bicycle wheels are also often used in the construction of a home-made motorbike, and in the restoration of a motorbike like the Gauja or B-902 one cannot do without a bulkhead and normal operation of such a hub! But often for hole drivers, these bushings remain a kind of “black box”, and all care ends with stuffing oil into the bushing, which, by the way, only harms its normal operation. And then the result. the brake does not work when the pedals are turned back, or it does not work well, and the wheel is loose, looseness.

Therefore, this article is being written, since there is a camera, the Internet and the need to assemble a well-working sleeve of this type.

This type, I must say, is very old, the design began to be widely used on bicycles back in the 1900s, and the design of the bushings produced in the USSR almost did not change at all since the late 1950s, all the details of the bushings produced by different factories are absolutely interchangeable, the differences are only minor, like the hallmarks of the plant. Now such bushings seem to be not produced. even a nature reserve in Belarus. the Minsk plant puts on its road bicycles bushings of a slightly different type, I suspect that they are Chinese ones. where the metal is used very often worse, and the design is flimsy.

The very old bushings differed in the sprocket attachment. it was threaded and locked with a nut, like on a carriage, only with a left-hand thread. Such stars were 20 teeth as a rule. Also, on such bushings, the brake drum had halves of a smaller diameter, connected not by a steel spring, but by a brass lining over the entire surface of the drum, with a checkmark cutout. The bearing cages also had a different look. All parts are interchangeable with modern.

Device

So, about the design of the sleeve with a rough tongue, not a poster, but instructions:

Ball bearings, a freewheel mechanism and a brake mechanism are located inside the body of 3 bushings.

The freewheel or drive gear is located on the right side of the hub.

On the axis 17 there is a driving cone 14, which has a ball track and five shaped sockets, the bottom parts of which are made in a spiral. Within the sockets, five driving rollers 19, the axes of which are parallel to the axis of the sleeve, can freely roll. A cup 10 with five slots is put on top of the driving cone with rollers, from which the driving rollers protrude slightly above its cylindrical surface. On the left side of the cup there are two end lugs (cams) with a helical surface in contact with similar lugs of the brake cone 9. On the ball track of the driving cone, there are eleven balls in a separator, forming, together with the driving cone and the body, on the inner surface of which there is a ball track, right freewheel bearing.

On the inner ball track of the driving cone there are seven balls in the cage, the right cone 16 screwed onto the axle to failure, the travel bearing, protected by a dust arrestor 15.

On the driving cone 14 on its right side outside the sleeve on the splines there is a driven chain sprocket 12 secured by a thrust ring 13. The left end of the axle 17 is screwed into the left cone 2 having a ball track, on which eleven balls are also located in the separator. They, together with the cone and the bushing housing, form the left-hand bearing. The bearing dust protector is pressed onto the left cone. The balls of all bearings of the rear hub are 6 mm in diameter.

The hub brake mechanism consists of a brake drum 4 and a brake cone 9, placed together with the parts located on it on the right side of the brake drum 4. The left side of the brake drum is put on the conical part of the left cone and is protected from turning by the tendrils at its end included in special grooves on the left cone.

The left cone always remains stationary relative to the bicycle frame, since the brake lever 21 and the clamp 22 located on the left side of the hub, it is rigidly connected to the chain fork of the frame.

how to install caged bearings on Scott with fork suntour xct jr

The brake drum consists of two separate longitudinal halves, fastened by an annular ribbon spring 5. On the cylindrical part of the brake cone 9 there are two flats on which two brake rollers 8 are located, held by a brass cage 20. Two brass cage tongues slightly bent outward slide with some friction along the inner grooved surface of the brake drum. Washer 7 and thrust ring 6 serve to hold the separator on the brake cone. The sleeve mechanisms work as follows.

When the driven sprocket turns clockwise relative to the hub housing at the beginning of the pedal travel, the drive cone connected to the sprocket will begin to rotate relative to the cup 10. The cup at the beginning of the cone rotation is somewhat delayed, since its end lugs meet resistance from the side of the brake cone 9, which rotates inside brake drum with some friction. When the cone rotates about 20 “relative to the cup, the drive rollers 19, held by the cup slots, will move outward under the influence of the spiral surfaces of the drive cone seats and wedge between the inner cylindrical surface of the housing and the drive cone seats firmly engaging the housing with the driving cone. Now the hub housing rotates with the sprocket as a whole and through the spokes the torque is transmitted to the wheel rim.During the working stroke, the wheel rotates on two bearings: the left bearing and the small bearing of the working stroke. behind it is the brake cone, which rotates inside the brake drum during the entire period of the working stroke. The friction torque created by the tongues of the brake cone separator is small and is practically not felt during the ride.

Caged Bearings. Which Direction Do They Go?

When you stop pedaling, the bike continues to move with inertia. At this moment, the sleeve body during its rotation overtakes the stopped driving cone 14 with rollers 19 sitting in its seats. The rollers, slightly turning around their own axes, wedge and freely roll into deeper places of the spiral seats of the cone. The cone and bushing body are disengaged. The wheel now rotates on two ball bearings in the hub housing: left and right freewheel bearings.

Travel bearing is not working. The bike is free to run.

If the bicycle must be stopped, the pedals are turned in the opposite direction, against the course of the bicycle. In this case, braking is carried out. The driving cone 14 turns against the wheel travel and, by means of the rollers 19 located in its seats, carries the cup 1O along with it. The cup, resting its end helical protrusions against the brake cone 9, will begin to turn it inside the brake drum 4. Since the separator 20 rotates with some friction against the inner surface of the brake drum, two brake rollers in, sliding the strips of the brake cone, protrude from the separator windows and, hitting in the longitudinal grooves of the grooved inner surface of the brake drum, do not allow the brake cone to turn further. From this moment, the screw protrusions of the cup 10, interacting with the brake cone, will begin to push it inside the brake drum 4. Under the action of the brake cone, the drum moves slightly to the left and the left side pushes onto the conical part of the stationary left cone 2. With further pressing of the brake cone inside the brake drum the latter expands. Its halves, connected by an elastic ribbon spring 5, diverge and, pressing against the inner surface of the sleeve housing, create friction forces that brake the wheel. Rotation of the drum together with the sleeve body is excluded, since the tendrils bent inward on the left side of the drum, entering the slots of the stationary left cone 2, prevent rotation. The braking torque is received by the left cone through the brake lever connected to the bike frame.

Taken from here: http://www.velonet.narod.ru/masterskaya/baza/ztv/ztv.html

Not clear yet? No wonder I didn’t understand either.

Device in pictures

Then here’s what the instruction (for the bicycle “Riga” of the 1950s) writes about its work, here they tried to draw visually:

BIKE FORK DISASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

The bike fork is the device that connects the front wheel to the bike frame. The plug consists of three tubes, which are interconnected and look like the letter “y”. With the help of a fork, the bicycle wheel rotates, the direction of movement is selected. Also, a steering wheel is attached to the top of the fork, with the help of which, in fact, the fork rotates.

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bearings, bicycle, handlebar

So, what tools will you need to disassemble a bicycle fork:

firstly, a wrench is required; secondly, pliers will be needed; thirdly, nothing is done without a screwdriver; and fourthly, there is a need for a small sliding gas wrench.

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS HOW TO DISASSEMBLE THE BIKE FORK

Most often, the fork is removed only when the bearings in the steering column are completely worn out. To do this, you need to place the bike on a flat surface, for example, leaning against the wall. We take a wrench of the required size, suitable for the head of the bolt, which is located in the middle of the handlebar. The handlebar is attached to the fork precisely with this bolt.

Now you need to unscrew this bolt. Do not be alarmed, it is quite long. In the upper tube of the fork there is a cone-shaped nut, into which the bolt is screwed. So, we take out the bolt, after which we loosen the steering wheel and remove it from the fork tube.

The next step will be to remove the fork tube, and remove it from the frame cylinder. To do this, you need to take a gas wrench, with its help, unscrew the overhead nut, the location of which is the top of the frame cylinder. By the way, the fork tube goes right through this cylinder. In principle, this nut is also unscrewed with a special wrench, but in practice it is quite difficult to do this.

After unscrewing the nut, take out the bearing. Most often, it is destroyed, and the balls fell out of the mountings. The fork tube is removed from the bicycle frame cylinder. Another bearing will be visible from below, it must be carefully removed and put aside.

We take a screwdriver and unscrew the bolt that holds the fender of the bicycle wheel at the top. This bolt is usually located on the bicycle frame cylinder. The same steps must be done with the bolts holding the bicycle fender wire holder.

The wing must be removed. After that, you need to loosen those nuts with which the fork is attached to the wheel. And, in fact, we release the plug, which ends the entire disassembly process. It remains only to change the bearings, thoroughly lubricate everything with lithol and, of course, return everything to its original state.

Front flap

To disassemble the front shield, it is necessary to unscrew the nut on the front fork with a wrench and remove the screws, thereby freeing the shield supports. Then unscrew the screw to secure the guard to the crown of the fork. It is best to turn the front wheel 90⁰ while doing this.

Rear and front flap

To remove the front and rear shields, unscrew the M5 nuts on the ends of the front and chain forks, thus freeing the shield supports. Further, to remove the front flap, the front wheel turns 90 degrees, the flap fastening screw is loosened and the flap with supports is removed. And to remove the rear, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts with screws on the upper and lower frame bridges.

The trunk can be removed much easier. just unscrew the M6 ​​nut and remove the screw, after which the trunk will already be separated from the bike. It is advisable to assemble the bike in the reverse order.

Front wheel, rear guard and wheel

After you have removed the shield, it’s time to remove the first, front wheel. Very often, beginners are confronted with the fear. what if I can’t make out this important detail correctly? But there is really nothing to be afraid of. Perhaps the front wheel is the easiest to disassemble the bike.

First, you need to decide what it is attached to: a nut or an eccentric. If you lean towards the first option, you need to take both bolts with wrenches and, holding one in a stationary position, turn the second nut counterclockwise. If you are the lucky owner of an eccentric, then the whole process will take no more than two minutes. Just pull it towards you and twist it a little counterclockwise. Everything! Now we pull the wheel up and take it off without much effort.

It would be nice to put your bike on a special stand when removing the wheels, it will be easier this way.

To disassemble the back shield, unscrew the nuts securing the shield to the ends of the chain fork and loosen the screws; then do the same with the nuts and screws on the lower and upper axles of the bike frame and remove the shield with the supports.

The rear wheel looks like two peas in a pod. Therefore, the parsing process is identical. Make sure that the chain is not on the axle.

How to disassemble a handlebar on a bicycle

A bicycle is a fairly simple device for those who ride it, and quite the opposite. when a cyclist has to disassemble it. The bike consists of many units, the functioning of which largely determines the technical characteristics of the bike and even the health of the cyclist himself. Therefore, if necessary, every bicycle owner should be able to disassemble his two-wheeled friend and put it back together.

Many experts advise not to disassemble the bike without a good reason. therefore, if there is an opportunity to straighten or tighten the necessary parts without this, it is better to use this opportunity. It is advised to disassemble the bike in the following cases:

Before disassembling the bike, you need to prepare the appropriate tool and work area for this.

We disassemble in detail

In order to remove the steering wheel, you will need to unscrew the steering tie bolt in 4 turns, put the key on the head of the bolt, and then hit it with your hand or some object. The bolt is pulled down to release the front fork handlebar bar. After that, you need to stand in front of the bike, holding its front wheel between your legs and turn the steering tube to the left. right, while pulling the steering wheel upwards at the same time.

Bicycle headset threadless

Details of this nature are considered to be the current standard. There is no thread inside such a column. Threadless systems do not take the load from the fork fixing.

Similar parts consist of the lower and upper cups. Both are pressed into the head tube. The inside contains the bicycle headset bearing. A rolling ring is installed on top of the latter. In threaded systems, the stem and spacer rings are first installed. Only then does the steering tube lock.

How to remove and install the plug. step by step instructions

The first step is to get rid of the front wheel. To do this, turn the bike upside down. Release rim brakes by swinging out the clamping bow. With the discs, you can immediately start removing the wheel. Wings and other devices are immediately removed.

We put the bike in its usual position. Now you need to pull out the steering wheel and remove the plug from the glass:

Completely unscrew the steering pin fasteners, or “anchor” bolt.

The steering wheel is carefully removed from the fork. You can immediately wipe the pipe with a soft cloth.

Use a thin sharp object (screwdriver or office knife) to pry the retaining metal washer over the glass.

Use the same tool to press out the gasket under the washer. As soon as the ring comes off the edge of the glass, gently pull it out with your hands.

Raise the frame and gently pull the fork out from below. Why? To avoid damaging or losing bearings.

Next, you need to separate the crown from the stem. To do this, it is necessary to knock out the connecting ring on which the steering column bearing rests.

Carefully use a thin sharp object and a hammer to separate the ring from the edge of the fork. This completes the removal process.

How to check a bike for headset play?

How securely the steering column of a bicycle is fixed can be determined using a simple method. It is enough to place the vehicle on a flat surface and then apply the front brake. As soon as the bike does not have the ability to roll, you need to push it forward. If there is no play in the steering column, there will be no hesitation. With its presence, a noticeable return will become noticeable.

How does the problem arise? As noted above, the reason may be the deterioration of the chamfers, where the bearings fit. If play is noticed on a new bike, it may mean that a poor adjustment was made during assembly. In this case, unscrew the upper retaining bolt, tighten the washer tightly and reassemble the elements.

How to put the fork back on the bike

First, inspect the bearing ring. There should be no damage or broken edges on it. Otherwise, you will need to replace it (if an old plug is installed). Assembly sequence:

Put the ring on the joint of the fork with the steering column.

Cover it with an adjustable wrench from above.

Using a hammer, press in the ring evenly with soft blows on the jaws of the key. We hammer “by sound”: while he is deaf, we continue to press, sonorous. the ring has fallen into place.

Lubricate the surface of the stopper (grease. lithol-24, buksol or special composition).

Place the bearing carefully with the balls facing up. You can also apply a little lubricant to it. A sealing washer must be placed under the bearing.

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Carefully insert the stem into the glass and repeat all removal operations in the reverse order.

Why you need to remove a bicycle fork

Obviously, there is no need to simply dismantle it from the bike. There are a number of reasons for this. replacement, overhaul and service. Replacement means removing an unusable part and installing a new one instead.

Repair. partial replacement of components. These can be bearings, washers, spring, damper or oil seal. Service includes adjustment, cleaning, lubrication.

The main symptoms that indicate removing the fork from the bike and putting it in order:

  • knocking on the go;
  • the fork is stuck and not adjustable;
  • bearing wear;
  • lack of lubrication (creaks);
  • cranking, heavy steering;
  • cracked legs and pants.

The device of the classic front shock absorption system is a metal spring and a rubber damper. Shrinkage of the spring and elongation of the elastomer rod degrade the properties of the shock absorber, making it stiffer. Regardless of the setting, the fork will knock on obstacles.

Backlash and tight handlebar travel indicate worn bearings and o-rings, as well as a dirty fork cavity. A suspicious creak when the bike is moving indicates that it is necessary to lubricate the part, and you cannot do without removing it.

Any mechanical damage leads to unexpected breakdown of the system. If cracks are found on the body and legs, the fork should be immediately replaced with a new one.!

In disassembling the shock absorber with your own hands, you will need tools:

  • Screwdriver Set;
  • flat sharp object;
  • sliding wrenches;
  • hexagon;
  • small hammer.

During operation, it will be necessary to clean and lubricate the part again, so you will need a can of grease, a few soft rags and gloves.

  • check the bike fork for integrity every 500. 1000 km;
  • clean the feet on the oil seals every 150. 200 km of the track;
  • apply a little grease to the stuffing box of the legs several times a season;
  • specially for hydraulic shock absorbers. change the oil every 5000 km.

How to check a bike for headset play?

How securely the steering column of a bicycle is fixed can be determined using a simple method. It is enough to place the vehicle on a flat surface and then apply the front brake. As soon as the bike does not have the ability to roll, you need to push it forward. If there is no play in the steering column, there will be no hesitation. With its presence, a noticeable return will become noticeable.

How does the problem arise? As noted above, the reason may be the deterioration of the chamfers, where the bearings fit. If play is seen on a new bike, it may mean that a poor adjustment was made during assembly. In this case, unscrew the upper retaining bolt, tighten the washer tightly and reassemble the elements.

Saddle and pedals

To remove the saddle, you need to loosen the seat bolt by turning the nut a few turns. The saddle is taken by the bow on one side, and on the other. by its rear frame. It is necessary to rest your foot on the pedal and turn the seat finger out of the seat tube of the frame along with the saddle.

To remove the pedals, it is necessary to put the cranks in a comfortable position by putting the key on the flats of the pedal axle. Holding the panel by the frame, you can turn its axis out of the connecting rod. The axes of the right pedal must be rotated to the left, while the left pedal must be rotated to the right.

How to remove and install the plug. step by step instructions

The first step is to get rid of the front wheel. To do this, turn the bike upside down. Release rim brakes by swinging out the clamping bow. With the discs, you can immediately start removing the wheel. Wings and other devices are immediately removed.

We put the bike in its usual position. Now you need to pull out the steering wheel and remove the plug from the glass:

Completely unscrew the steering pin fasteners, or “anchor” bolt.

The steering wheel is carefully removed from the fork. You can immediately wipe the pipe with a soft cloth.

Use a thin sharp object (screwdriver or office knife) to pry the retaining metal washer over the glass.

Use the same tool to press out the gasket under the washer. As soon as the ring comes off the edge of the glass, gently pull it out with your hands.

Raise the frame and gently pull the fork out from below. Why? To avoid damaging or losing bearings.

Next, you need to separate the crown from the stem. To do this, it is necessary to knock out the connecting ring on which the steering column bearing rests.

Carefully use a thin sharp object and a hammer to separate the ring from the edge of the fork. This completes the removal process.

Front wheel, rear guard and wheel

After you have removed the shield, it’s time to remove the first, front wheel. Very often, beginners are confronted with the fear. what if I can’t make out this important detail correctly? But there is really nothing to be afraid of. Perhaps the front wheel is the easiest to disassemble the bike.

First, you need to decide what it is attached to: a nut or an eccentric. If you lean towards the first option, you need to take both bolts with wrenches and, holding one in a stationary position, turn the second nut counterclockwise. If you are the lucky owner of an eccentric, then the whole process will take no more than two minutes. Just pull it towards you and twist it a little counterclockwise. Everything! Now we pull the wheel up and take it off without much effort.

It would be nice to put your bike on a special stand when removing the wheels, it will be easier this way.

To disassemble the back shield, unscrew the nuts securing the shield to the ends of the chain fork and loosen the screws; then do the same with the nuts and screws on the lower and upper axles of the bike frame and remove the shield with the supports.

The rear wheel looks like two peas in a pod. Therefore, the parsing process is identical. Make sure that the chain is not on the axle.

Remove the plug

Pull the fork out of the frame so as not to lose the bearing ring from the bottom cup.

Pulling up, remove the bearing ring and cup from the frame.

Front flap

To disassemble the front shield, it is necessary to unscrew the nut on the front fork with a wrench and remove the screws, thereby freeing the shield supports. Then unscrew the screw to secure the guard to the crown of the fork. It is best to turn the front wheel 90⁰ while doing this.

DIY bicycle handlebar wrapping

Here’s what I learned from the state of the handlebar tape on the bike I got. The braid of a bicycle handlebar is rewound with your own hands in two cases: when buying, or when it turns into dust

In general, everything was started not because I wanted to dig deeper into the handlebars of the bicycle, but because I needed to swap the left and right brake levers in places. Since the brake hoses on the road bike are hidden under the winding, I had to unwind and restore it.

Assessing the front of the rewind work

This is how the braid on the handlebars of the bicycle came to me. From the pros. everything is very soft, comfortable. Of the minuses. greasy, unaesthetic and worn almost to holes

Gently tried to peel off the Fizik duct tape from the beginning of the braid near the brake levers on the handlebars. It didn’t work out. the quality is 300%. it was glued in so that it either tore off pieces of the braid, or stretched itself. But it didn’t come off. I had to use a blade and carefully cut along the contour of the steering tape.

Oh yes. I forgot to say that the new braids had not yet arrived to me, so I planned to unwind the old ones and then rewind them.

I rolled up the first layer. It was a Fizik tape, and of a very decent quality. The tape on the bicycle handlebar consists of two parts. a strip of faux suede with perforation and a red leather-like strip sewn to it. All of this is padded with a thin layer of shock-absorbing material, and a sticky double-sided tape is glued in the middle so that the winding does not slip and stay on the handlebars. But, while I was taking it off, this double-sided tape had become completely unusable, and the question of the reverse winding of the bicycle handlebar remained open.

Under it was the second layer of winding. The hike is already native. with the B logo. Bontriiger. It was thin artificial suede, which had already begun to crumble from touch (I understood why the previous owner had wound Physics over it). Of course, there was no sticky layer, the second layer was wound up and thrown next to the top.

The third (!) Layer of white foam tape, also with the Bontriiger logo, was wound on the steering wheel under this all. Fairly well-worn, and no longer white It wound up the easiest of all, since it did not contain any glue elements.

All three layers of the road bar winding were attached with a huge number of pieces of electrical tape and scotch tape along the edges, which I accumulated as a result of about five meters in total

And only now I was able to see the “bare wheel” of the road bike, with the brake cable shirts, which were fixed with black electrical tape.

Road Handlebar Reverse Winding

So, the handles are swapped. I started to put everything back together.

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Hint: If you plan to hang all kinds of lights / GPS navigators / bike computers / sun beds / bike computer flashlight holders on the steering wheel, then first hang all this on the steering wheel, and then lay the hoses.

Because, for example, my right brake hose went down and back at the exit (normally, as usual), BUT the left one had to be laid up and down, since I hung a bicycle lamp in this place. And with the flashlight installed, this hose in the back-down position does not trivially get up (see the photo, this brake hose from the left handle is just visible on it, going up and down, in the photo below. the right hose goes down and back).

And, the second moment is more comical. I’ve ridden MTB mountain bikes all my life. And I never put brake hoses / gearshift hoses under the winding of the road bike, they always hung and hang in front of the steering wheel. So that’s it. In the process of disassembly and subsequent assembly, it flew out of my head that there was a road bike in front of me.

When I changed the brake levers, I got stuck. I was sincerely surprised that these brake hoses are sooo long and hang in front of the steering wheel almost to the front wheel axle. I didn’t like it at all. And I, in a mess, in all seriousness began to take out a micro grinder to shorten these hoses and brake cables so that they would not cling to everything. With thoughts “Where did the bike builders look that the hoses were so sagging”

Fortunately, the epic fail did not happen, at some point everything fell into place for me. I laughed at myself and wrapped them under tape on my bicycle handlebar

Lubricate the cables and jackets of the brakes / speed switches.

While I was looking for something on the Chainreactions website, I came across Shimano XTR brake shirts. Their descriptions read in black and white “High quality brake jackets, filled with silicone grease.” It was this phrase that inspired me to the lubrication method (since the Japanese use silicone, why don’t I use this too?)

I just got a bottle of gel-like silicone lubricant. It remains to decide how to cram it, in fact, into the hoses. Various lubrication devices are sold on the Internet, for example, this. They cost some horse money for a piece of milled aluminum (about one and a half to two thousand).

I went the other way, spending about 12 rubles on the lubrication device. This is an ordinary 5 ml syringe with a needle. The procedure is as follows:

  • disconnect the cable from the brake / switch
  • remove the aluminum plug from the end of the cable from fluffing
  • take out the cable from the shirt
  • lubricate the cable with this grease
  • set the top end of the shirt vertically
  • pour one and a half to two milliliters of silicone grease into the shirt with a syringe (you will have to press hard)
  • pour from the top point so that it flows downward by gravity
  • put a rag at the exit point (the excess will pour out from there)
  • put the cable in place

In order to prevent the cable from “fluffing” in the process of pulling / inserting, we use a miracle remedy. Before pulling out (as soon as you remove the aluminum cap). After it, you don’t even need to put on the aluminum cap. the cable will not creep and unravel at the tip. This is superglue for 10 rubles. If the end of the cable is in oil or mud, it will need to be first degreased, for example, with alcohol.

How to wind the tape around the handlebars of a bicycle

By the way, adjusting the brakes / derailleurs is best done after you’ve wrapped all the windings over the top of the shirts. Otherwise, the length of the shirts will change and you will have to rebuild everything again.

In principle, everything was more or less simple afterwards. I didn’t have time to buy a new handlebar tape. Therefore, I decided not to bother, and rewind everything that I had removed in the reverse order. First I wound a white winding. over, so that it does not peel off at the very beginning. I glued a strip of cloth tape (you can use an adhesive plaster) to the end of the winding, and with this adhesive tape I fixed the beginning of the winding on the metal handlebar so that it would not turn. At the end, I wound the usual electrical tape and rigidly secured the brake hose outlet.

Then he wound a second layer. he began to wind from the brake levers down to the center. He also secured the beginning of the winding with a piece of tape, clamped it with a tape and wound it to the end. At the end he took black duct tape and wrapped it in the same way. Remember, I mentioned above that there was an adhesive layer on the inside of this tape? Instead, on top of the white braid, I simply applied a strip of “moment” glue (regular, rubber) about a centimeter wide, and on top of this I wound a second layer.

I decided to wind the third layer of tape on the bicycle handlebars “back to front”. ie. what was at the brake levers. worn and stained. put under the lounger, and from under the lounger. not rubbed. put to the brake levers. Also at the beginning I glued a piece of cloth tape (wound down from the brake levers), applied a layer of glue about a centimeter wide on the black winding (so as not to unwind) and began to wind. The first time I missed the step of the red stripe, and I ran out of the tape approximately in the middle of the bicycle handlebar. The second time I took a wider step and everything worked out. At the place of the bend, I grabbed it with cloth tape, and at the very end I wound the tape that I took off at the very beginning from the steering wheel.

Well, I rewound the “horns” of the lounger, as I removed the gear shift cables for lubrication. After pouring silicone grease into the shirts, both the speed and brake switches began to work “as if from the factory”, which I am very pleased with

And in what way did you lubricate the cables and rewind the steering wheel?

Dish of the day: Five peppers with steel eggs show their best tricks. I tried to jump on the slide a couple of times, I understand what it is

Installing the steering column on a bicycle

Bicycle steering column. a part that is necessary in order to move the wheel in the fork using the steering wheel. By type, steering columns are divided into threaded and non-threaded (integrated). The threaded type bicycle headset is considered obsolete, but it is still used on many bicycles today. On modern bicycles, non-threaded types of speakers are usually used, most likely you have an integrated speaker.

Types and design

The steering head consists of two cups (upper and lower), as well as a pair of bearings and thrust rings, which are complemented by a boot, an anchor and an anchor cover, as well as an anchor bolt. All parts should ideally be of high quality in order for the part to work for as long as possible. It is obvious that on cheap Chinese bikes, headset wear will be faster than on expensive models.

During installation, the cups are pressed into the steering tube, and the bearings are pressed onto the steering tube of the fork (in integrated or non-threaded columns, the bearings themselves are pressed together with the cups), where it is held by bearings and special grooves and rings. It is very important that the column is carefully attached and does not dangle, as this will impair the helm operator and the very control of the bike. For this, it is important to use special equipment for installing the steering wheel when repairing a bike, which allows you to qualitatively connect this part with the rest of the skeleton of the vehicle.

Checking the quality of the installation

When you check the quality of the steering column mounting, the first step is to check it for any backlash. If the new one is large, then there should be no backlash, in principle, on old bicycles there is a backlash on the steering wheel due to the deterioration of the components.

The backlash is checked in the following simple way. Park your bike and apply the front brake to prevent rolling. Then push the bike forward. In the absence of backlash, you will not feel anything. If there is a backlash, then there will be a noticeable recoil.

Where does the backlash come from? As mentioned above, on old two-wheeled vehicles, this may be due to worn-out elements, and on a new one, this indicates an incorrect steering installation and adjustment. Correctly adjusting the adjustment is possible only when the cups are pressed in correctly: if they are skewed, then backlash is inevitable. over, it is precisely because of the need for absolutely correct installation of this part that it is important to press it in with the help of special machines, and not to hammer the cups with a hammer (this is not counting the fact that in this way you can simply break the steering column).

When buying a bicycle, there are usually no problems with the headset, but with prolonged use it may become necessary to replace the headset. The easiest and most reliable way to do this. contact specialists who have experience and equipment for work on replacing the steering column of bicycles.