Disassemble the rear wheel of the bike. How to disassemble or reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike
Removing the wheels from the frame is part of a mandatory bike maintenance procedure. Sooner or later, the wheel of even the most advanced bike will present surprises in the form of deformation of the rim, damage to the spokes, a burst tube or even the entire tire, as well as wear of the sprocket system for the rear wheel.
Experienced cyclists welcome self-repair of wheels, and it is no coincidence: it’s cheaper, and you can acquire skills. You can also go to a good workshop, where the problem will be solved, perhaps faster, but not free of charge. over, the service is hardly located under the windows of the house, so the bike will have to be dragged, which is not very pleasant. To avoid this, it is better to tinker a little yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about the wheels. Today we’ll talk about how to remove the rear wheel from the bike, repair it and assemble it correctly.
When to remove the rear wheel
It is unlikely that the idea of unscrewing the chassis from the bicycle frame would just come to mind, unless, of course, a person specializes in bicycle dismantling. But this is a completely different case. Dismantling the rear wheel will be required if the following problems are observed:
- noticeable damage to the rim;
- complete wear when a wheel needs to be replaced;
- a flat tire or a burst tire;
- bulkhead bushing.
This also includes the planned replacement of the rear sprocket system and chain.
Before removing the bike, turn it over and place it on the saddle and handlebars. It is better to remove awnings in the form of a mirror, bell and lantern in advance so as not to damage them under the weight of the frame. V-brakes are first released and removed, otherwise they will not allow the wheel to be pulled out freely. With disc models, everything is easier. you can immediately remove the wheel.
I must say that the removal process itself consists only in unscrewing the eccentric or unscrewing the fastening nuts from the axis of the bushing, who has something. If the mount is an eccentric, simply unscrew the handles and twist the wheel. The nut fastening is loosened with one or two keys.
Usually, one wrench of the appropriate size is enough, with which the nuts are removed one by one. If the hub axle turns, then the nuts are unscrewed simultaneously in different directions. Open-end or box wrenches are recommended. The adjustable version is undesirable, as its thick horns “eat up” the corners of the nut due to loose fit and sliding.
Replacing the bike camera
To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which often happens with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.
To remove the tire, you will need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the beads a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.
You need to tighten very carefully so as not to damage the rim, do not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.
Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it breaks, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.
On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bicycle, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. The rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.
Removing the cassette and bulkhead bushing
A hub is one part of a bicycle wheel that requires periodic maintenance. On average, you need to look into it once every 2000 km of run, in terms of time it is 2-3 months of active driving. If the wheel is already creaking and there is a decrease in the efficiency of rotation, in other words, the great rides worse, then it is time to remove it and inspect the hub.
The main problems with the bushing are backlash and insufficient lubrication of the bearings. Due to a violation of the fit or increased friction, parts begin to wear out rapidly. If the wheel has not been serviced for a long time, the bearings may crumble altogether. To gain access to the hub bearings, you will need to temporarily get rid of the rear sprockets.
The reverse gear is removed with a puller and a so-called whip. Removing the cassette is not a long matter, but you will have to make a lot of effort to unscrew it from the wheel. In stages it looks like this:
- The stripper is inserted into the cassette nut.
- The whip holds the large star of the system so that it does not turn.
- With a wrench, the puller rotates, unscrewing the slotted nut.
- We remove the small stars that are installed on top, carefully fold them to the side along with the washers, and then remove the cassette itself.
Before disassembling the hub, loosen the spoke tension slightly. This can be done using a round key with knocked out holes for different diameters of the needles. You need to loosen up a little, a quarter of a revolution is enough. If the sleeve needs to be replaced, then the spokes must be unscrewed enough to easily pull it out of the engagement.
A complete bushing replacement is required if both the axle and the bearings become unusable. However, often when the bushing is jammed, the axle is in normal condition, it is enough to change the bearings. Often, both will still serve faithfully if they are well lubricated. Proper lubrication will prevent parts from wearing out under dynamic loads.
The bulkhead of the axle part of the wheel is associated with cleaning the axle and bearing balls from dirt. The removed parts must be temporarily placed in a solvent, then allowed to dry, lubricated and reinstalled. Bearings in a skewed position must be adjusted by returning them to a straight position. However, during the backlash, the parts are already faulty, so replacement is the best option.
Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike
A quality wheel repair is not only about disassembly, replacement, lubrication or adjustment. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and carefully secured with locknuts. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.
Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to tighten the spokes harder.
The cassette is put on the sleeve in this order:
- main stars;
- single stars, small stars;
- whip tightening the cassette mechanism.
All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. We turn the bike over and begin to ride calmly!
Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.
How to iterate over the rear and front hub on a speed bike
Bulkhead bushing, whether it be rear or front, is an event that can be either forced due to water entering the bushing, or routine. Its purpose is for the most part preventive. to change the lubricant and, if necessary, replace some components. If we are talking about a classic cone, then it can be a worn ball or a cone. However, on high-speed bicycles there is another type of support that also needs maintenance.
Types and arrangement of the rear / front hub of a mountain bike
In the MTB class, only two types of sleeve mechanisms are common: axle-cone-ball bearing and axle-industrial bearing. It is clear from the names of the classes that the difference between them lies in the structure of the supports.
The most common type. Particularly in the Shimano lineup, you will not find a knot on the “slip”. The company explains this by the fact that the design based on cone-nuts has better reel. Configuration elements of such a product are shown in the figure:
Industrial bearing bushing
Many do not like bushings on flare nuts because of the difficulties associated with adjusting them after assembly. In this regard, the worn out support is often changed to the version with “slips”.
One of the advantages of the industrial bearing design is easy maintenance. There is no need to adjust anything here: the bearing fits snugly in the cup and on the axle, there are no flare nuts. In theory, such a wheel should not have any backlash, which is demonstrated by expensive copies. In cheaper models, low-grade rolling bearings are used, in which the clearance is observed even from the packaging.
Note. Backlash in the bushings due to “slip” is eliminated only by replacing the bearings. The latter are difficult to remove, therefore, when critical gaps appear, the mechanism is replaced as an assembly.
How to sort out the rear hub of a speed bike
The word “bulkhead” is fully relevant only for tapered products. The maximum that can be done in the support on the “slip” is to clean and lubricate the bearings, and without removing them.
The repair principle for the front and rear cone nut bearings is the same, although the design differences are obvious. A set of sprockets is installed at the back; another design of the anther on the side of the cassette. However, the “backbone” is completely identical: in the back, in the front, on both sides, one cone-nut and one row of balls laid in bulk.
So, the subject of discussion is mountain bike rear cone service. It can be ratcheted, like on entry-class bikes like the Stels or Forward, or cassette, like on mid to high-end bikes. By the way, in the material on how to choose a mountain bike. we have detailed the differences between these two designs. There is also a recommendation on which design should be preferred.
In the technology of bulkheads on cones, three stages should be distinguished: disassembly, lubrication and assembly and adjustment. A tool is needed at every stage. Complete cassette hub kit shown on
Recommendation. If you plan to service the bike from “A” to “Z” yourself, then a suitcase with tools from X-Tools will be very useful. In particular, it has a chain squeeze and even a spare head. And this, by the way, is an irreplaceable device not only at home, but also on a hike. You can buy a set at a democratic price at ChainReactionCycles.
The plug is only needed for hydraulics. In the methodology describing how to adjust the hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle, we have already discussed the consequences of accidentally pressing the brake lever in the absence of a rotor in the hydraulic circuit. For a bushing mechanism with a ratchet, a whip is not needed, and the mandrel of the wrench is replaced with an adapter from the slots for an open-end or box wrench. Externally, the adapter sleeve looks like a mandrel for removing the cassette, which is present in the photo with the tool.
How to disassemble
Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:
- Disc brake rotor. Not in all cases can be dismantled. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the disc. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front hub it is impossible to do without removing the rotor.
- Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to shoot, otherwise you cannot reach the second cone, and the axle cannot be removed. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.
When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. It is important to follow two rules:
- Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
- You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is no disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the cone nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or collisions with an obstacle, which is why the free movement of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, such a scheme maintains a balance and you can choose a gap without prejudice to the roll.
The deconstructing procedure is shown in the photograph. A thin cone wrench adheres to a cone-nut, and with another wrench (for convenience, it is advisable to take a more massive tool) unscrew the locknut. After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, and the axle is removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.
Attention! When disassembling, remember the order of the components. The ideal option is to take a photo of the placement of anthers, nuts and washers on fresh tracks, as shown in the image.
When dismantling the balls from the seats, it is important to separate them into two groups. Those on the right must be folded in one place, those on the left in another. Do not mix or confuse these groups with each other, otherwise, after assembling the ideal reel without backlash, you will not get.
Important! When removing the axle on the front wheel of a bicycle without disc brakes, mark the side of the non-twisted cone on the tire. Another landmark on this type of bike is the direction of rotation of the rubber shown on the side.
Cleaning and lubrication
It is necessary to clean the balls and cups in contact with them, cone-nuts, axle. In a sleeve with good dust protection, the lubricant is usually clean, so cleaning can be carried out without chemicals. with an ordinary clean rag. If dirt is present, use one of the degreasers we have recommended for cleaning the chain in the material, how to clean old bicycle chain grease at home.
How to lubricate
The ideal option is Teflon composition. For example, Finish Line Premium Grease: very slippery and viscous. However, Teflon can be replaced with regular Litol-24 or a consistency for car CV joints.
What definitely doesn’t work is any liquid mixture:
- Bicycle chain maintenance compound.
- Car engine or transmission oil.
How to apply lubricant
The goal is to lubricate balls, cones and cups. This can be done as quickly and efficiently as possible using the following technology:
- Lubricate the cup with your finger.
- Put the balls into the cup using medical tweezers, observing the intended purpose of the groups sorted during disassembly.
- Apply a thin layer of lubricant over the balls.
- Repeat steps 1-3 for the second side.
- Put the boot on the locked cone located on the side of the cassette (relevant only for the rear bushings).
- Apply a thin layer of grease to the beveled surface of both cone nuts.
There should not be a lot of lubricant in the contact points. This statement is relevant only because excess lubricant is squeezed out through the anthers, and it intensively begins to collect dust. You can estimate the sufficient filling level from the photo. There are usually no problems with mounting balls. They adhere well to the lubricant, which is already in the cup according to point 1 of the technological instructions.
It is customary to lightly coat the thread on the axle and the ends of the nuts with a compound that was used to treat rubbing surfaces. This activity is designed to minimize oxidation of metals and the formation of rust at the interface of detachable parts.
The order of assembly and adjustment of the hub cones using the example of the rear wheel
All actions in the assembly process are performed in the reverse order of disassembly. So, the first row of anthers is immediately installed. In the example, there is only one such elastic band and is located on the side opposite to the cassette drum. In front of these elements there are two. one per side. If we are dealing with the rear bushing, then the dust protection on the locked cone must be installed even before lubricating it according to paragraph 5 of the technological instructions.
Next, you need to carefully insert the axis. Remember to insert it from the cassette side. That is, the untouched cone nut should be on the opposite side of the disc brake rotor. After inserting and tightening the cone nut and the lock nut on the left side, proceed with the adjustment:
- Screw in the previously unlocked cone by hand until it stops.
- Loosen the tightening by turning the flare nut in the opposite direction. It is enough to unscrew it about half a turn, and then make sure by staggering the axle in different directions if there is any backlash. If there are none, then it is necessary to loosen up again and check the beat again. The purpose of this stage is to catch a slight play, slightly perceptible with your fingers.
- Tighten the cone nut slightly. This can be any angle within 1/4 of a turn from the position found in the previous paragraph. Backlash must go away.
- Lift the wheel and check its free play by twisting the structure by the spokes or drum. There is no specific criterion for assessing the smoothness of rotation: someone looks to see if the rim turns under the weight of a nipple or reflector, someone relies on experience, examining the nature of the free wheeling by eye. If the stroke is tight, the nut must be slightly loosened.
- When the wheel rotates freely, the cone can be countered. To do this, fix the flare nut with a thin wrench, and tighten the lock nut tightly with a union tool.
- Make sure there are no backlashes.
At the end of the assembly process, the second row of anthers is put on and the eccentric is installed. At the same time, it is important to check the tightness of the seating of these sealing rubber bands. So, the situation depicted in the photo is not allowed. When replacing the cassette, align the thinnest spline with the smallest groove in the sprocket set. It is advisable to lubricate the end of the lock nut with the same grease that was used to treat the bearings. No whip needed during assembly.
After installing the wheel on the bike and fixing the eccentric, check that there is no play in various positions (rotate a small angle and check). A slight runout is allowed only in one of the studied wheel positions. If the backlash is noticeable in any position, do not rush to repeat the procedure for adjusting the cones. tighten the eccentric. This helps to select a slight backlash.
How to change the rear or front hub on a speed bike
When it comes to tapered sleeve mechanisms, then only products with worn cups need to be replaced. In this case, an analog is selected that is suitable for the distance between the dropouts and the number of holes for the knitting needles. It is better to entrust the work of repositioning the wheel to an experienced master, as well as the selection of new spokes.
How to disassemble and reassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike
The rear wheel of a bicycle requires maintenance more often than other components. This is due to the fact that it is the most loaded element. it is it that accounts for the bulk of the user’s weight. Those who like to ride such a vehicle often and for a long time should learn how to disassemble and assemble the rear wheel of a high-speed bike correctly. Of course, you can go to the workshop, but if you have the necessary tools, any person can do all the work on disassembly, repair and maintenance independently, while receiving moral satisfaction and not burdening the family budget.
Main constituent parts
The rear wheel of a speed bike consists of the following parts:
Take the survey
- cassettes with driven sprockets;
- knitting needles;
- tire with tube.
In this case, the following points should be taken into account:
- Rear wheel hub designs may vary in size, shape, and bearing type.
- The speed bike cassette can also be of various designs and contain from three to eleven sprockets.
- The hub through the spokes is quite rigidly connected to the wheel rim. Usually on high-speed bicycles there are either 28, 32, or 36 spokes, and the pattern of their weave can also be different.
- Mountain bike rims are usually box-shaped, as opposed to single-tube rims. As the weight of the outer part of the wheel is always tried to be reduced, the most common material is aluminum based alloys.
Mountain and city multi-speed bikes usually have tube tires, and their size and tread pattern can be very different.
It may be necessary to dismantle the rear wheel in the following cases:
- there is damage to the rim;
- broken tire or deflated tube;
- complete wheel wear.
For disassembly and subsequent assembly of the rear wheel of a bicycle with your own hands, in addition to traditional open-end wrenches, you will also need special tools:
- a puller for the type of cassette that is installed on a bicycle (for example, the mechanism of cassettes of the Stealth model and HVZ road vehicles has a completely different design, therefore, suitable types of pullers are needed);
- whip. a cassette fixing device, consisting of a lever with pieces of a bicycle chain attached to it;
- a spoke wrench (it is desirable that it has at least three slot sizes, which will allow you to capture even old knitting needles with a knocked-down square of heads);
- special spoons for tire bead.
Advanced cyclists can use the repair stand to work in a natural position.
Puller Whip Spoke Wrench Bicycle Mounts
Obviously, in order to repair a wheel, it must be removed from the bike. For this, it is better to put the latter on the handlebar and saddle, after removing the attachments. There are two ways to fix the wheel to the frame:
- an eccentric through the hollow axis;
- nuts or lambs.
In the first case, you just need to turn the eccentric lever 180 degrees and then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the axle. In the case of an eccentric attachment, the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle on one side does not extend beyond the thickness of the fork in which it is installed. Experienced users must take this point into account when repairing. In the second case, the rear wheel hub axle is always longer than the distance between the fork stays by at least 15–20 mm. Thus, the axle extension beyond the outer side of the fork should in no way be less than 5-6 mm on each side. It is important to observe these ratios when re-assembling the rear wheel hub. After the fasteners are removed or loosened, the chain must be dropped from the drive sprocket and the wheel can be removed. If the bike is equipped not with disc brakes, but with rim brakes, then most likely you will need to dissolve them by throwing off the brake cable from the traction.
Before you start disassembling and assembling the rear wheel of a high-speed bike, you need to find a comfortable place to stock up on gloves so as not to get your hands dirty. If there is no relevant experience, you should strictly follow the sequence of actions, take into account all the subtleties. A great help in this matter. training videos.
Removing the sleeve
Repair and maintenance of the rear wheel hub begins with dismantling the cassette with driven sprockets. For this, you will need a special tool in the form of a whip and a puller. The cassette is always mounted on the wheel on the right-hand thread. This is what ensures its rigid connection with the element itself and allows it to be rotated clockwise. This means that you need to remove the cassette by spinning it in the opposite direction. This opens access to the axle and bearings.
Any diagram indicates that the bushing designs for road, road and mountain bikes are different in structure. The very center of the rear wheel is equipped with three types of bearings:
- industrial bearings (usually with anthers);
- cone-cup bearings with balls on the cage;
- cone-cup bearings with loose balls.
When disassembling, it is necessary to clearly lay out all the removable elements of the bushing in such a way that the subsequent assembly of the wheel allows each part to take its original place.
Disassembly of the rear wheel hub starts from the left side. Sequencing:
- With one wrench, grip the cone on the right side, and with the second, the locknut on the left and screw it.
- Remove the washer between the locknut and the cone. The last element should be screwed off the axis without any effort.
- After removing the cone, carefully remove the cage or pour out the balls (depending on which type of bearing is installed in a particular model). Sometimes, in the case of balls, for this you need to shift the axis to the left.
- Place the balls in kerosene or other petroleum-based solvent.
- After that, remove the balls from the right side equally carefully. It is better not to screw the right cone and locknut unnecessarily. This will allow you to maintain the position of the axle and later fix the wheel in the bike fork without unnecessary problems.
- Carefully inspect the working surface of the cleaned cones. The slightest irregularities indicate that they must be replaced.
- If there is damage to the surface of the cups, then the entire rear wheel hub must also be replaced. If everything is in good condition, then you can proceed to the assembly procedure.
When assembling the wheel, first of all, liberally lubricate the surface of the hub cups. A grease is fine for this. It is necessary to squeeze balls into the layer of the agent on the right side of the bushing or install a cage with bearings and insert an axle. If you had to shift the axis to the right to remove the balls from the left side, then it should not be inserted all the way, but just enough so that it would allow the balls to be put in place.
After installing the balls or a cage, it is necessary to insert the axle to the end and screw the left cone onto it so that it rests against the balls. Then replace the washer and tighten the left lock nut with slight effort. It is necessary to unscrew the cone on both sides with force so as to ensure free rotation of the axis. If the rotation of the wheel is not light enough or there is play, it is necessary to re-adjust the pressure of the cone on the left side of the axle.
If the wheel rotates freely and there is no play, then the maintenance or replacement of the bearing has been completed successfully.
If during the inspection of the surface of the cups damage was found, then the sleeves must be replaced. This process is rather complicated. Before removing the bushing, you need to study the instructions. The fact is that to replace the element, you need to spacing the wheel.
The lacing pattern must be sketched or photographed before disassembly.
It is necessary to unscrew all the spoke heads and remove them from the hub. The likelihood of making a mistake will be much less if, when removing the parts, immediately insert them into the corresponding socket of the new bushing. After all the spokes are in place, it is necessary, by tightening them, to give the wheel the shape of an umbrella, and then align the rim. In the process of work, the vertical runout of the wheel is first eliminated. After they have disappeared or reduced to a minimum, horizontal beats are eliminated. In this case, it is necessary to loosen the knitting needles on one side and immediately tighten the knitting needles on the other side by the same number of revolutions.
To remove the tube from the tire, you must completely deflate it. You need to pry the latter with spoons for disassembly, inserting them at a distance of about 15 cm from one another. After that, you need to start to spread the spoons little by little until the entire side of the tire is removed from the rim. It remains to remove the nipple and remove the camera.
Installing a new camera is carried out in the reverse order:
- You need to insert the nipple into the rim and tuck the entire tube into the tire around the circumference, avoiding twisting and wrinkling.
- Before beading the tire onto the rim, you can slightly inflate the tube so that it takes its shape and takes its place in the tire.
- After prying the tire, it is necessary to fill it with spoons into the rim, first in the area of the nipple and then along the circumference.
After making sure that the tire has taken its place on the rim, you can inflate the tube to working pressure. After that, it remains to deal with the installation of the rear wheel of the bike, and the repair can be considered complete.
Installing the rear wheel
To return the rear wheel to its place, you must install it in the fork and put a chain on one of the sprockets. Now it is necessary to center the position of the element on the bicycle so that it is between the stays of both the upper and lower parts of the rear fork of the frame and looks strictly in the middle of the pedal axle carriage. Holding the wheel in this position, you need to fix it in the fork with standard nuts or an eccentric. It is important not to forget to restore the brake cable tension and place the chain on the drive sprocket. After installation, it is advisable to make sure that the steps taken are correct, to conduct a test drive. In the process, it is necessary to trace how the bike behaves after repair.
Maintenance and diagnostics of the rear wheel of a high-speed bicycle are mandatory procedures to maintain the serviceability of the mechanisms and long-term operation of the vehicle. Novice users will have more difficulty, but you can always follow the instructions and read the advice of experienced craftsmen. Having completed the repair work yourself, it will be possible to save the family budget.
Video. Rear Bicycle Hub Maintenance
If you ignore the need for periodic maintenance of the rear hub of a bicycle, then the life of the “iron friend” can be greatly reduced. Experienced cyclists know what signs will indicate to disassemble / lubricate / reassemble the rear hub immediately. This process is not difficult, but you need to do everything in a certain sequence.
When to Service the Rear Hub
To ensure that bike parts are always in perfect technical condition, they must be regularly serviced. If we consider the rear hub of a bicycle, then for it you will need:
- periodically tighten the body;
- regularly change the bearing balls;
- at the next disassembly, lubricate all internal parts of the case;
- adjust the brake hub from time to time.
Dismantling the rear wheel itself is as easy as shelling pears, but the process of removing and disassembling / assembling the rear bicycle hub is much more difficult. And nevertheless, without such regular maintenance of the part in question, it may soon need to be overhauled or replaced.
Signs that indicate an urgent need for service on the rear bicycle hub:
- when driving, there is a strong wheel play;
- the crunch of bearings is clearly audible (this means that they are simply worn out);
- on the go, the bicycle body rattles and staggers;
- rolling dynamics is bad.
It is worth knowing some of the features of eliminating a particular symptom:
- If the rear hub casing is spinning, its looseness, then this can be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.
- If the movement of the rear wheel is difficult, then it may be necessary to loosen the retaining nut a little. most likely, too much force was applied when tightening it.
- If extraneous sounds appear when the bike is moving and the roll-forward deteriorates, it will be necessary to replace the bearings or completely lubricate the rear hub housing.
How to properly disassemble, clean and lubricate the rear hub
Immediately remember one truth: any service is recommended to be carried out with a snagged sleeve. Otherwise, there is hardly a chance to assemble the wheel correctly and quickly. only a person who is already experienced in bicycle maintenance can do this.
Step-by-step instructions for maintaining the rear bicycle hub:
- Remove the cassette from the axle using a whip and a puller.
- Opening the retaining ring.
- We remove all bearings and washers. Note:the sleeve can be on industrial bearings and bulk bearings, but in any case, it is very important to remember their original location in the sleeve. This rule must be observed when removing the washers.
- We carry out a careful inspection of the bearings. if they are damaged, this means the need to replace them with new parts.
- We take out the axle. it does not understand.
- We clean the body of the rear hub of the bicycle from dirt. All internal cavities must be wiped with a dry cloth.
- When installing back, each part is thoroughly lubricated, special attention should be paid to the bearings during this process.
- The last step is to install the stopper and tighten the fastening nut. It is not necessary to apply great efforts to tighten, as this can result in a problem of free wheel rotation.
Of course, everything looks quite easy and simple, but there are a lot of nuances in servicing the rear hub of a bicycle. they must be known and taken into account during operation:
- First, the direct disassembly of the bushing should be started only after the cassette has been removed. over, the sleeve is disassembled from the opposite side and, as a rule, it is on the left. The locknut, if any, is unscrewed with a 15 mm wrench, then the stopper is removed (again, if any).
- Secondly, you need to be extremely careful when removing washers and rings. they will need to be laid out on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the exact order, if this moment is overlooked, the assembly of the rear bicycle hub after cleaning and lubricating it can turn into real torment.
- Thirdly, after twisting the housing of the rear hub, its axis will begin to give in. just at this moment the bearings will appear. And again, you need to be extremely careful when removing the bearings. the parts are small, they are easy to lose. We remove each bearing with a knitting needle or tweezers, carefully wipe it with a cloth soaked in kerosene or gasoline, and set it aside. Just in the process of wiping, the bearings must be carefully inspected for damage, and if any, then the part must be replaced.
Note: in the articles and instructions for servicing the rear hub of a bicycle, you can find a recommendation to use acetone to wipe bearings. this is permissible, but it should be borne in mind that the aroma from such a product will not be the most pleasant, and acetone can corrode the skin on the fingers. And one more thing. many “kulibins” use a magnet in order not to lose small bearings. this should never be done! The fact is that the bearing is magnetized and during the operation of the bicycle, iron dust is attracted to these small parts. the fact that soon the hub will become unusable can be predicted with confidence.
It is highly undesirable to confuse the left and right parts when disassembling / assembling the rear hub of a bicycle. this can lead to wheel play. If at least one ball is lost, then you will have to carry out a full replacement of the bearings. Sometimes, when opening the bushing near the axle, you can observe iron “dust”. this means that the bearings are completely worn out, they must be completely replaced.
We work with the inner space of the sleeve
After the axle has been removed, you need to carefully inspect it. As a rule, this part of a bicycle wears out very rarely, but in any case, you will need to thoroughly wipe it off from dirt and dust. This is done with a dry cloth, but in some cases (with heavy pollution), you can use gasoline. So, we wipe the left cone and examine the right one for fastening strength. Only after the axle walls are completely dry (if gasoline was used for processing), you can apply new grease to it.
Note: in no case should you use chain lubricant or some other lubricant for the rear hub of the bicycle. you will need to purchase a special tool. Bearings are often used for bearings. this lubricant will be the most suitable. Too thick a layer of grease should not be applied. it, during the operation of the bicycle, will be squeezed out and actively absorb dirt, which leads to rapid wear of the part.
How to carry out the installation correctly
After carrying out the above work, you need to assemble the bushing to its original position. This is done in the following sequence: right bearings. wheel axle. cone. left bearings. stopper. washers and rivets. lock nut.
You will almost always need to adjust the rear hub after assembling the bike. This is carried out only on the left side. first, the lock nut is slightly loosened with a 15 mm wrench, then it is tightened until it stops, but the cone must be held in a fixed position.
Using the described method, you can completely get rid of the axle backlash, at least. to reduce it to a minimum. Most likely, you will have to carry out the same operation more than once, but you need to achieve synchronous movement of the axle and wheel.
Note: slight cranking is quite acceptable, but tightening the lock nut too tight can lead to difficulty in movement.
This completes the maintenance of the rear bike sleeve. It will be necessary to check the quality of work. test the “iron friend” at different speeds, determine if there is a backlash, how tightly all the details are fixed, if there are any extraneous sounds. If something does not suit you, then the process of disassembling / assembling the rear hub will need to be repeated.
Maintaining the rear hub of a bike is not a daunting task. even a beginner can handle the job. But if you cannot disassemble the sleeve on your own, then you need to contact a specialist. with strong pressure on the part, it can be damaged, which will require a complete replacement.
What to do if a wheel is loose on a bicycle
During the ride, the cyclist often notices a strange shaking of one of the wheels. To understand why this is happening, you must immediately dismount and carefully examine the damage. To do this, you need to remove the wheel, take it by the axle and turn it first in one direction, then in the other direction. Taking thin wrenches, you need to adjust the clamping of the locknut and check for backlash.
The wobbly wheel problem has traditionally been associated with backlash. Backlash, or a gap, typically occurs between interconnected mechanical parts rotating in close proximity to each other. In other words, one element of the system starts to move, while the other remains motionless. On a wheel, this happens due to the fact that its plane is displaced in relation to the hub or axis of rotation. In the latter case, the wheel shifts to one side or the other and begins to “beat”, moving along the figure eight.
Who is guilty?
If your wheel began to wobble noticeably, most likely one of three things happened:
- the bike worked at its limit and was often subjected to heavy loads;
- poor quality parts were installed on the bike;
- parts have become unusable due to long-term operation.
At the “micro level”, some detail could be erased, leading to the formation of backlash. Rotational errors are usually caused by the following technical or mechanical problems:
- the wheel hub is erased;
- the cone wears out, due to which the bearing raceways become unusable;
- the notches of the locknut are erased, leading to too tight adhesion of the locknut with the cone.
What to do?
If it’s just loosening the nuts, a wrench will help solve the problem. The compression between the radius nut (cone) and the locknut is loosened, the gap between the locknut and the bicycle frame is filled with an engraver or washer.
The front and rear wheel devices are different from each other, so the stages of inspection of each of them must be said separately.
The front wheel is noisy
Having discovered a malfunction of the front wheel, you must immediately find out what the reason is and make repairs. When disassembling the front wheel, you need to perform the following steps one by one:
- Remove the wheel from the bike frame.
- Disassemble the bushing in detail, clean it.
- Check for damage.
- If there are no malfunctions, re-grease, install separate bearings.
- Tighten the radial nut on one side of the axle, then tighten the lock nut.
- Bring axis back.
- Twist from the other end, so that the length of the nuts on the sides of the axis is equal to.
- Secure bearings with locknuts at normal tension.
- Make sure the nuts are evenly tightened (work should be done with two thin open-end wrenches).
- Install the wheel in its original place, tighten it with nuts for clamping.
- Check if the wheel rotates smoothly, if there is any play.
- If a gap is found, remove it using a washer.
Rear wheel defective
If the rear wheel of the bike is loose, you need to remove it and take the following steps:
- Disconnect the ratchet to gain access to the locknut and taper.
- Disassemble the bushing, wipe it, removing dirt, as well as old grease.
- Assess the condition of the bearings, especially the raceways, view the radius nuts.
- If a malfunction is found, replace the part with a good one.
- Return the bushing parts to their places, cover with fresh grease.
- Tighten locknuts, cones.
- Compress the cone, as well as the locknuts on the side where the ratchet is installed, and on the other end, adjust the bearing tension.
- Replace the ratchet.
- Check the ease of rotation (it should be smooth), fix.
- Install the wheel to the frame.
What will happen if “not treated”?
If the problem is triggered, the wheel hub will completely fail, rendering the wheel inoperative. Any cyclist can detect a backlash even without a specialist examination, therefore, for the “iron horse” to feel normal, a good master’s gaze is quite enough, providing from one technical inspection a year.