How to disassemble the rear wheel of a speed bike

Required tools

It may be necessary to dismantle the rear wheel in the following cases:

  • there is damage to the rim;
  • a broken tire or a deflated tube;
  • complete wheel wear.

For disassembly and subsequent assembly of the rear wheel of a bicycle with your own hands, in addition to traditional open-end wrenches, you will also need special tools:

  • a puller for the type of cassette that is installed on a bicycle (for example, the mechanism of cassettes of the Stealth model and KhVZ road vehicles has a completely different design, therefore, suitable types of pullers are needed);
  • whip. a cassette fixing device, consisting of a lever with pieces of a bicycle chain attached to it;
  • a spoke wrench (it is desirable that it has at least three slot sizes, which will allow you to capture even old knitting needles with a knocked-down square of heads);
  • special spoons for tire bead.

Advanced cyclists can use the repair stand to work in a natural pose.

disassemble, rear, wheel, speed, bike

Puller Whip Spoke Wrench Bicycle Mounts

The procedure for assembling and adjusting the hub cones using the example of the rear wheel

All actions in the assembly process are performed in the reverse order of disassembly. So, the first row of anthers is immediately installed. In the example, there is only one such elastic band and is located on the side opposite to the cassette drum. In front of these elements there are two. one per side. If we are dealing with a rear bushing, then the dust protection on the locked cone must be installed even before it is lubricated according to paragraph 5 of the technological instructions.

Next, you need to carefully insert the axis. Remember to enter it from the side of the cassette. That is, the untouched cone nut should be on the side opposite to the position of the disc brake rotor. After inserting and tightening the cone nut and lock nut on the left side, proceed with the adjustment:

  • Screw in the previously unlocked cone by hand until it stops.
  • Loosen the tightening by turning the flare nut in the opposite direction. It is enough to unscrew it by about half a turn, and then make sure by staggering the axle in different directions if there is any backlash. If there are none, then it is necessary to loosen up again and check the beat again. The purpose of this stage is to catch a slight play, slightly perceptible with your fingers.
  • Tighten the cone nut slightly. This can be any angle within 1/4 of a turn from the position found in the previous paragraph. Backlash must go away.
  • Lift the wheel and check its free play by twisting the structure by the spokes or drum. There is no specific criterion for assessing the smoothness of rotation: someone looks to see if the rim turns under the weight of a nipple or reflector, someone relies on experience, examining the nature of the free wheeling by eye. If the stroke is tight, the nut must be slightly loosened.
  • When the wheel rotates freely, the cone can be countered. To do this, use a thin wrench to fix the flare nut, and tighten the lock nut tightly with a union tool.
  • Make sure there are no backlashes.

At the end of the assembly process, a second row of anthers is put on and an eccentric is installed. At the same time, it is important to check the tightness of the seating of these sealing rubber bands. So, the situation depicted in the photo is not allowed. When replacing the cassette, align the thinnest spline with the smallest groove on the sprocket set. It is advisable to lubricate the end of the lock nut with the same grease that was used to treat the bearings. No whip needed during assembly.

After installing the wheel on the bike and fixing the eccentric, check that there is no play in various positions (rotate a small angle and check). A slight runout is allowed only in one of the investigated wheel positions. If the backlash is noticeable in any position, do not rush to repeat the procedure for adjusting the cones. tighten the eccentric. This helps to select a slight backlash.

How to disassemble

Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:

  • Disc brake rotor. Not in all cases can be dismantled. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the latter. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front hub it is impossible to do without removing the rotor.
  • Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to remove, otherwise you cannot reach the second cone, and the axle cannot be removed. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.

When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. In this case, it is important to observe two rules:

  • Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
  • You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is no disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the cone nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or collisions with an obstacle, which is why the free movement of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, such a scheme maintains a balance and you can choose a gap without prejudice to the roll.

The deconstructing procedure is shown in the photographic material. A thin cone wrench adheres to the cone-nut, and with another wrench (for convenience, it is advisable to take a more massive tool) unscrew the locknut. After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, and the axle is removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.

Attention! When disassembling, note the order in which the components are located. The ideal option is to take a photo of the placement of anthers, nuts and washers on fresh tracks, as shown in the image.

When dismantling the balls from the seats, it is important to separate them into two groups. Those on the right must be folded in one place, those on the left in another. Do not mix or confuse these groups with each other, otherwise, after assembling the perfect reel without backlash, you will not get.

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Important! When removing the axle on the front wheel of a bicycle without disc brakes, mark the side of the non-rolled cone on the tire. Another landmark on this type of bike is the direction of rotation of the rubber shown on the side.

How to disassemble a speed bike rear wheel hub

How to sort out the rear hub of a speed bike

The word “bulkhead” in its entirety is relevant only for tapered products. The maximum that can be done in the support on the “slip” is to clean and lubricate the bearings, and without removing them.

The repair principle for the front and rear cone nut bearings is the same, although the design differences are obvious. A set of sprockets is installed at the back; another design of the boot on the side of the cassette. However, the “backbone” is completely identical: that in the back, that in the front, on both sides, one cone-nut and one row of balls laid in bulk.

So, the subject of discussion is mountain bike rear cone service. It can be ratcheted, like on entry-class bikes like the Stels or Forward, or cassette like on mid to high-end bikes. By the way, in the material on how to choose a mountain bike. we have figured out in detail the differences between these two designs. There is also a recommendation on which design should be preferred.

Dismantling instructions

Obviously, in order to repair a wheel, it must be removed from the bike. For this, it is better to put the latter on the handlebar and saddle, after removing the attachments. There are two ways to fix the wheel to the frame:

  • an eccentric through the hollow axis;
  • nuts or lambs.

In the first case, you just need to turn the eccentric lever 180 degrees and then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the axle. In the case of an eccentric attachment, the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle on one side does not extend beyond the thickness of the fork in which it is installed. Experienced users must take this point into account when repairing. In the second case, the rear wheel hub axle is always longer than the distance between the fork stays by at least 15–20 mm. Thus, the axle extension beyond the outer side of the fork should be no less than 5-6 mm on each side. It is important to observe these ratios when re-assembling the rear wheel hub. After the fasteners are removed or loosened, the chain must be dropped from the drive sprocket and the wheel can be removed. If the bike is equipped not with disc brakes, but with rim brakes, then most likely you will need to dissolve them by throwing off the brake cable from the traction.

Eccentric Nut

How to Remove and Install Quick Release Road Rear Wheels by Performance Bicycle

Tool

In the technology of bulkheads on cones, three stages should be distinguished: disassembly, lubrication and assembly and adjustment. A tool is needed at every stage. Complete cassette hub kit shown on

Recommendation. If you plan to service the bike from “A” to “Z” yourself, then a suitcase with tools from X-Tools will be very useful. In particular, it has a chain squeeze and even a spare head. And this, by the way, is an indispensable device not only at home, but also on a hike. You can buy a set at a democratic price at ChainReactionCycles.

The plug is only needed for hydraulics. In the methodology describing how to adjust the hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle, we have already discussed the consequences of accidentally pressing the brake lever in the absence of a rotor in the hydraulic circuit. For a sleeve mechanism with a ratchet, a whip is not needed, and the mandrel of the wrench is replaced with an adapter from the slots for an open-end or box wrench. Externally, the adapter sleeve looks like a mandrel for removing the cassette, which is present in the photo with the tool.

Replacing the bike camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, then simply unscrew the cap.

To remove the tire, you need special paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it starts to pull together, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficiently free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, you should not use too much force. When the tire is removed, remove the damaged camera and install a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it is torn, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bike, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. However, the rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

When to service the rear hub

For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be kept in good condition at all times. It needs lubrication, and its body needs to be tightened periodically. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake sleeve will not interfere.

Rear hub service is essential as in cases where this does not occur, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is best to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than servicing the front hub.

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It is necessary to perform maintenance in such cases:

  • If you hear body noise when the bike is moving or wobbling.
  • Backlash.
  • If the bearings crunch.
  • Poor rolling dynamics.

If you do not pay attention to the above signs of “illness” of your bike and use it for a long time if they are present, it can quickly fail.

Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for play and that the bearings are not too tight.

How to carry out the installation correctly

After carrying out the above work, you need to assemble the bushing to its original position. This is done in the following sequence: right bearings. wheel axle. cone. left bearings. stopper. washers and rivets. lock nut.

It is almost always necessary to adjust the rear hub of a bicycle after assembling. This is done only on the left side. first, the lock nut is slightly loosened with a 15 mm wrench, then it is tightened to the stop, but the cone must be held in a fixed position.

Using the described method, you can completely get rid of the axle backlash, at least. reduce it to a minimum. Most likely, you will have to carry out the same operation more than once, but you need to achieve synchronous movement of the axle and wheel.

This completes the maintenance of the rear bike sleeve. It will be necessary to check the quality of work. test the “iron friend” at different speeds, determine if there is a backlash, how tightly all the details are fixed, if there are any extraneous sounds. If something does not suit you, then the process of disassembling / assembling the rear hub will need to be repeated.

Maintaining the rear hub of a bike is not a daunting task. even a beginner can handle the job. But if you cannot disassemble the bushing on your own, then you need to contact a specialist. with strong pressure on the part, it can be damaged, which will require a complete replacement.

Replacing the camera

To remove the tube from the tire, you must completely deflate it. It is necessary to pry the latter with spoons for disassembling, inserting them at a distance of about 15 cm from one another. After that, you need to start to spread the spoons little by little, until the entire side of the tire is removed from the rim. It remains to remove the nipple and remove the camera.

Installing a new camera is carried out in the reverse order:

  • You need to insert the nipple into the rim and tuck the entire tube into the tire around the circumference, avoiding twisting and wrinkling.
  • Before beading the tire onto the rim, you can slightly inflate the tube so that it takes its shape and takes its place in the tire.
  • After prying the tire, it is necessary to fill it with spoons into the rim, first in the area of ​​the nipple and then along the circumference.

After making sure that the tire has taken its place on the rim, you can inflate the tube to working pressure. After that, it remains to deal with the installation of the rear wheel of the bike, and the repair can be considered complete.

How to disassemble the rear wheel

Dismantling instructions

Obviously, in order to repair a wheel, it must be removed from the bike. For this, it is better to put the latter on the handlebar and saddle, after removing the attachments. There are two ways to fix the wheel to the frame:

  • an eccentric through the hollow axis;
  • nuts or lambs.

In the first case, you just need to turn the eccentric lever 180 degrees and then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the axle. In the case of an eccentric attachment, the axle of the rear wheel of a bicycle on one side does not extend beyond the thickness of the fork in which it is installed. Experienced users must take this point into account when repairing. In the second case, the rear wheel hub axle is always longer than the distance between the fork stays by at least 15–20 mm. Thus, the axle extension beyond the outer side of the fork should be no less than 5-6 mm on each side. It is important to observe these ratios when re-assembling the rear wheel hub. After the fasteners are removed or loosened, the chain must be dropped from the drive sprocket and the wheel can be removed. If the bike is equipped not with disc brakes, but with rim brakes, then most likely you will need to dissolve them by throwing off the brake cable from the traction.

Eccentric Nut

Bicycle rear hub and its device

One of the most important parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The wheel is the main focus when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it.

A hub is an element of a wheel that is attached to a bicycle frame, namely drop points. This is the central part of the wheel that allows it to rotate freely.

The bushing consists of elements such as:

What are the wheels?

Before you know what a standard bicycle wheel layout includes, it is worth familiarizing yourself with general information about this important part.

  • 14 inches. size for the smallest cyclists under the age of four.
  • 16 inches. for older riders: 4.5 to 6.5 years.
  • 20 inches is chosen by children 8-11 years old.
  • 24 inches. option for teenagers and those who practice jumping on a bike.
  • 26 “-” standard “for an adult mountain bike.
  • 28 inches in diameter most commonly found on adult road and hybrid bikes.

Bicycle wheel structure: about every detail in detail

Cycling, especially off-roading, carries the risk of breakage. Therefore, in order to understand the cause of the malfunction, it will not be superfluous to know what a bicycle wheel consists of. It does not include too many details that even a beginner will easily remember a list of: hub, rim, spokes and tire. In this article you can find a detailed description of each part of a bicycle wheel.

The bushing is a small component that performs a very important mission. It is with its help that the bicycle wheel is fastened to the frame. The hub consists of an axle and a pair of bearings, connected to the rim thanks to the spokes.

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Removing the rear wheel from a tri bike

Hubs are very diverse depending on the position, fastening, material from which they are made and the structural features of the bike itself.

  • The position of the sleeve directly affects its function. The front hub only secures the wheel of the same name and ensures its rotation. The device of the rear wheel of a bicycle provides for additional work for the corresponding hub. to carry a cassette or a ratchet (and what it is, you can read here). By the way, the bushing for the cassette is superior in strength to that for the ratchet.
  • The bushing can be secured with two nuts or an eccentric. And if in the first case you cannot do without a wrench, then in the second case the wheels are removed easily and quickly without the use of additional tools.
  • Depending on the type of brake system (V-brake or disc), the hub either provides special mountings for a disc brake, or not.
  • Depending on the material used for the manufacture, this part of the bicycle wheel can also be of two types: aluminum or steel. The first option is preferable. it is lighter in weight and less susceptible to corrosion, but it will also cost more in terms of cost.
  • The number of spokes also affects the type of hub: there are options for 32 or 36 spokes. Based on this number, you need to choose a suitable rim.

The device of a bicycle wheel is not complete without such an important part as the rim.

It is its shape that determines how the wheel looks as a whole. The rim is the outside of the wheel, protected from the outside by the tire.

Rims are made of steel, aluminum, magnesium. The preferred option is the aluminum rim: this material is lightweight, durable and resistant to corrosion. Steel is more susceptible to it, and magnesium is not as strong.

Depending on what kind of brakes the bicycle wheel is designed for, the rim may or may not have a brake pad. It is needed if a V-brake is used.

A high rim is better protected from bending outward or inward from the center (such a malfunction is called an “egg”), and a wide rim from bending to the right or left of the direction of travel (a malfunction with the name “figure eight”).

In terms of strength, the rim can be single, double, triple, reinforced. If your budget allows, choose at least a double rim!

In order to prevent the spoke from sticking into the chamber during impact, there is a special protection. rim tape. The part will help to avoid more substantial repair costs.

Spokes are an important part of the mechanism of both the rear and front wheels of a bicycle. They perform several functions at once: they provide fastening of the hub to the rim, center the wheel, evenly distribute the loads, and affect damping. Spokes are steel, aluminum, bronze, titanium.

By varieties, they are divided into rolled, drawn and flat. The first option is the simplest and cheapest, optimal for beginners, the second will cost more due to its superiority in lightness, and the third is the most expensive due to its excellent aerodynamic characteristics.

The device of the front wheel of a bicycle, as well as the rear one, necessarily includes a tire. It consists of a tube and a tire.

The camera is necessary so that minor irregularities on the road become invisible. It consists of a rubber tube in the form of a ring and a nipple through which it is filled with air.

The tire is needed to protect the camera from sharp objects that may meet on the road, and to grip the wheel with its surface.

When choosing a tire tread pattern, be guided by the conditions in which you have to ride: for mud, sand, snow, a “toothy” tread is suitable, for a flat road, a smooth one is preferable.

Here are the main parts, the presence of which provides for the layout of the rear and front wheels of the bicycle. Although it is generally the same for each of them, there are still differences between the wheels. What are?

How a bicycle wheel works: useful for every rider to know

Home »Bicycle structure» How a bicycle wheel works: it is useful for every rider to know

In order for the mechanism to work without interruption, every detail is important. But there are those among them that bear the greatest loads during operation. Of all the components of a bicycle, of course, the wheels get the most. they have to take on both the bulk of the cyclist’s weight and shock, which cannot be avoided on uneven roads.

How the rear wheel of a high-speed bike works: compare with the front

The front bicycle wheel and the rear wheel differ from each other not only in design features, but also in the load that each of them takes. Most. over half of the cyclist’s weight. comes from the rear wheel. Therefore, the design of the rear wheel of a bicycle provides for all these nuances: for example, the hub that attaches it to the frame is much stronger than its partner in front.

The functions of these seemingly identical parts are also different: stability is ensured by the front wheel, and traction is provided by the rear.

Is the rear wheel arrangement of a high-speed bicycle (road, mountain, children’s, stealth) different from the usual one? The main parts (tire, spokes, hub and rim) are available in any of these varieties of our iron friend, so the general scheme of the rear wheel of a high-speed bike is no different from the rest. But each specific node may already have some differences depending on the selected type.

There are many options for all these details, and it is impossible to talk about each of them in one article. Therefore, when purchasing certain spare parts for the rear wheel of a bicycle, be guided by its model and characteristics.