How To Disassemble The Rear Hub Of A Speed Bike

How to lubricate

The ideal option is Teflon composition. For example, Finish Line Premium Grease: very Slippery and viscous. However, Teflon can be replaced with regular Litol-24 or a consistency for car CV joints.

What definitely doesn’t work is any liquid mixture:

  • Bicycle maintenance compound.
  • Car engine or transmission oil.
  • Spindle.

How To Disassemble The Rear Hub Of A Speed Bike

Tool

In the technology of bulkheads on cones, three stages should be distinguished: disassembly, lubrication and assembly and adjustment. A tool is needed at every stage. The complete cassette hub kit is shown in the photo:

  • Whip.
  • Collar with adapter.
  • Flat screwdriver.
  • Tool for unscrewing the lock nut.
  • Cone wrench.
  • Box spanner 17.
  • Medical tweezers.
  • Caliper plug.

The plug is only needed for hydraulics. In the method describing how to adjust the hydraulic disc brakes on a bicycle, we have already discussed the consequences of accidentally pressing the brake lever in the absence of a rotor in the hydraulic circuit. For a bushing mechanism with a ratchet, a whip is not needed, and the mandrel of the wrench is replaced with an adapter from the slots for an open-end or box wrench. Externally, the adapter sleeve is similar to the cartridge for removing the cassette, which is present in the photo with the tool.

How to sort out the rear hub of a speed bike

The word “bulkhead” is fully relevant only for tapered products. The maximum that can be done in the support on the “slip” is to clean and lubricate the bearings, and do not take them out.

The repair principle for the front and rear cone nut bearings is the same, although the design differences are obvious. A set of sprockets is installed at the back; another design of the boot on the cassette side. However, the “backbone” is completely identical: in the back, in the front, on both sides, there is one cone-nut and one row of balls laid in bulk.

So, the subject of discussion is mountain bike rear cone service. It can be ratcheted like on entry-level bikes like Stels or Forward, or cassette like on mid to high price bikes. By the way, in the material, how to choose a mountain bike. We have figured out in detail the differences between THESE two designs. There is also a recommendation on which design should be preferred.

Taper bushings

The most common type. Particularly in the Shimano range, you will NOT encounter a knot on a “slip”. The company explains this by the fact that rolling is better in a design based on cone-nuts. Configuration elements of such a product are shown in the figure:

  • Cone.
  • Cups.
  • Balloons.
  • Here.
  • Locknuts.
  • Washers.
  • Anthers.

How to disassemble

Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:

  • Disc brake rotor. Dismantling is NOT in all cases. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the latter. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front sleeve you cannot do without removing the rotor.
  • Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to shoot, otherwise it is NOT possible to reach the second cone, and indeed DO NOT remove it. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.

When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. It is important to follow two rules:

  • Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
  • You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is a disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the flare nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or hitting an obstacle, which is why the free movement of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, in such a scheme, the balance is maintained and you can choose a gap without damage to the roll.

The deconstruction procedure is shown on the photographic material. A cone-nut is adhered to with a thin cone wrench, and the lock nut is unscrewed with the second key (for convenience, it is desirable to take a more massive tool). After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, but removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.

When removing balls from their seats, it is important to Separate them into two groups. That which is the case must be put in one place, that which is on the left. in another. DO NOT mix and shackle these groups with each other, otherwise after assembling a perfect roll without backlash you will NOT get.

Types and arrangement of the rear / front hub of a mountain bike

In the MTB class, only two types of bushing mechanisms are common: here-cone-ball bearing and here-industrial bearing. By the name of the classes, it is clear that the difference between them lies in the structure of the supports.

The procedure for assembling and adjusting the hub cones using the example of the rear wheel

All actions in the assembly process are performed in the reverse order of disassembly. So, the first row of anthers is immediately installed. In the example, there is only one such elastic band and is located on the side opposite to the cassette drum. There are two of THESE elements in front. one per side. If we are dealing with the rear bushing, then the dust protection on the locked cone must be installed even before lubricating it according to paragraph 5 of the technological instructions.

Next, you need to carefully insert here. Remember that it must be inserted from the side of the cassette. That is, the untouched cone nut should be on the opposite side of the disc brake rotor. I put on and tighten the cone nut and lock nut on the left side, proceed to the adjustment:

  • Screw the previously unlocked cone all the way by hand.
  • Loosen the tightening by turning the flare nut in the opposite direction. It is enough to unscrew it about half a turn, and then make sure by staggering the wasp in different directions if there are any backlashes. If there are any, then it is necessary to loosen more and check the runout again. The purpose of this stage is to catch a small play, slightly palpable with your fingers.
  • Tighten the cone nut a little. It can be any angle within 1/4 of a turn from the position found in the previous paragraph. Backlash Must Go.
  • Raise the wheel and check its free play, spun the structure by the spokes or drum. The specific criterion for assessing the smoothness of rotation is comments: someone looks to see if the rim turns under the weight of a nipple or reflectors, someone relies on experience, examining the nature of the free wheeling by eye. If the stroke is tight, the nut must be slightly loosened.
  • When the wheel rotates freely, the cone can be counter. To do this, use a thin wrench to fix the flare nut, and tighten the lock nut tightly with a union tool.
  • Make sure there are no backlashes.
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At the end of the assembly process, the second row of anthers is put on and the eccentric is installed. In this case, it is important to check the tightness of the fit of THESE sealing rubber bands. So, the situation depicted in the photo is not allowed. When replacing the cassette, align the thinnest spline with the smallest groove on the sprocket set. It is advisable to lubricate the end of the lock nut with the same grease that was used to treat the bearings. No whip needed during assembly.

After installing the wheel on the bike and fixing the eccentric, check that there is no play in various positions (it will scroll a small angle and check). A slight runout is allowed only in one of the investigated wheel positions. If the backlash is noticeable in any position, do not rush to repeat the procedure for adjusting the cones. tighten the eccentric. This helps to select a slight backlash.

How to iterate over the rear and front hub on a speed bike

Bulkhead bushing, whether rear or front, is an event that can be either Forced, due to water entering the bushing, and Regular. Its purpose is for the most part preventive. to change the lubricant and, if necessary, replace some components. If we are talking about a conical bicycle classic, then it can be a worn ball or a cone. However, on high-speed bicycles, there is another type of support, which also needs maintenance.

How to apply lubricant

The goal is to lubricate balls, cones and cups. This can be done as quickly and efficiently as possible using the following technology:

  • Lubricate the cup with your finger.
  • Put the balls into the cup using medical tweezers, observing the purpose of the groups sorted during disassembly.
  • Apply a thin layer of lubricating compound to the floor of the balls.
  • Repeat steps 1-3 for the second side.
  • Put the boot on the locked cone, located on the side of the cassette (relevant only for rear bushings).
  • Apply a thin layer of grease to the beveled surface of both cone nuts.

There should not be a lot of lubricant in the contact points. This statement is relevant only after it squeezes out excess grease from the boot, and it intensively begins to collect dust. You can estimate the sufficient filling level from the photo. There are usually no problems with mounting balls. They stick well to the lubricant, which is already in the cup according to paragraph 1 of the technological instructions.

It is customary to lightly coat the thread on the axle and the ends of the nuts with a compound that was used to treat rubbing surfaces. This activity is designed to minimize oxidation of metals and the formation of rust at the interface of detachable parts.

How to install correctly

After carrying out the above work, you need to assemble the bushing to its original position. This is done in the following sequence: right bearings. here are the wheels. cone. left bearings. stopper. washers and rivets. lock nut.

It is almost always necessary to adjust the rear hub after assembling the bike. This is carried out only on the left side. first, the lock nut is slightly loosened with a 15 mm wrench, then it is tightened until it stops, but the cone must be held in a fixed position.

Using the described method, you can completely get rid of the axle backlash, at least. to reduce it to a minimum. Most likely, you will have to carry out the same operation more than once, but you need to achieve synchronous movement of the axle and wheel.

Note: small cranking is quite acceptable, but too strong tightening of the lock nut can lead to difficulty in movement.

This completes the maintenance of the rear bicycle sleeve. It will be necessary to check the quality of work. test the “iron friend” at different speeds, determine if there is a backlash, how tightly all the details are fixed, if there are extraneous sounds. If something does not suit you, then the process of disassembling / assembling the rear hub will need to be repeated.

Maintaining the rear hub of your bike is not a daunting task. even a beginner can handle the job. But if you cannot disassemble the sleeve on your own, then you need to contact a specialist. with strong pressure on the part, it can be damaged, which will require a complete replacement.

How to sort out the rear hub of a speed bike

The word “bulkhead” is fully relevant only for tapered products. The maximum that can be done in the support on the “slip” is to clean and lubricate the bearings, and do not take them out.

The repair principle for the front and rear cone nut bearings is the same, although the design differences are obvious. A set of sprockets is installed at the back; another design of the boot on the cassette side. However, the “backbone” is completely identical: in the back, in the front, on both sides, there is one cone-nut and one row of balls laid in bulk.

So, the subject of discussion is mountain bike rear cone service. It can be ratcheted like on entry-level bikes like Stels or Forward, or cassette like on mid to high price bikes. By the way, in the material, how to choose a mountain bike. We have figured out in detail the differences between THESE two designs. There is also a recommendation on which design should be preferred.

How to disassemble

Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:

  • Disc brake rotor. Dismantling is NOT in all cases. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the latter. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front sleeve you cannot do without removing the rotor.
  • Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to shoot, otherwise it is NOT possible to reach the second cone, and indeed DO NOT remove it. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.

When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. It is important to follow two rules:

  • Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
  • You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is a disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the flare nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or hitting an obstacle, which is why the free movement of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, in such a scheme, the balance is maintained and you can choose a gap without damage to the roll.
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The deconstruction procedure is shown on the photographic material. A cone-nut is adhered to with a thin cone wrench, and the lock nut is unscrewed with the second key (for convenience, it is desirable to take a more massive tool). After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, but removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.

Attention! When disassembling, remember the order of the components. The ideal option is to take a photo of the placement of anthers, nuts and washers on fresh tracks, as shown in the image.

When removing balls from their seats, it is important to Separate them into two groups. That which is the case must be put in one place, that which is on the left. in another. DO NOT mix and shackle these groups with each other, otherwise after assembling a perfect roll without backlash you will NOT get.

Important! We take out here on the front wheel of a bicycle without disc brakes, Mark the side of the unrolled cone on the tires. Another landmark on this type of bike is the direction of rotation of the rubber shown on the side.

Rear wheel hub repair. Step-by-step instruction

  • Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace from unnecessary tools, things that are NOT useful to you.
  • Remove the retaining ring.
  • We remove the bushings here. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side from the stars.

Most often, the repair of the rear wheel hub is necessary either when there is play or when the cone is tightened. So, step by step instructions:

  • Checking the workplace. We clean the workplace from unnecessary tools, things that are NOT useful to you.
  • Loosen the lock nut with a wrench.
  • Loosen or tighten the flare nut.
  • Tighten the locknut into place.

If the prerequisite for the breakdown is a malfunction or breakdown of any part, then you should simply replace it, using the following recommendations:

  • After checking the workplace, remove the retaining ring.
  • We remove the bushings here. First, remove all the parts that are on the opposite side of the stars.
  • Checking the details for a malfunction.
  • We replace the broken part.
  • We put all the parts in place, tighten the Flare nuts and locknut.

Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care.

First, remove the cassette from the wasp using a puller and a whip. Then we open the retaining ring and removing washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

Bicycle rear hub and its device

One of the fundamental parts of a bicycle is its wheel. In particular, the rear wheel is much more loaded than the front wheel, since it is on it that the ratchet (freewheel mechanism) and the cassette (sprocket block) are installed. The main emphasis is on the wheel when driving, so it is important to understand the design of its hub in order to be able to properly maintain it.

A hub is an element of a wheel that is attached to a bicycle frame, namely drop points. This is the central part of the wheel, allowing it to rotate freely.

The bushing consists of such elements as:

Types and arrangement of the rear / front hub of a mountain bike

In the MTB class, only two types of bushing mechanisms are common: here-cone-ball bearing and here-industrial bearing. By the name of the classes, it is clear that the difference between them lies in the structure of the supports.

How to properly disassemble, clean and lubricate the rear hub

Immediately remember one truth: any service is recommended to be carried out with the bushings fastened. Otherwise, there is hardly a chance to assemble the wheel correctly and quickly. only a person who is already experienced in bicycle maintenance can do this.

Step-by-step instructions for maintaining the rear bicycle hub:

  • Remove the cassette from the wasp using a whip and a puller.
  • Opening the retaining ring.
  • Removing all bearings and washers.
    Note:the sleeve can be on industrial bearings and bulk bearings, but in any case, it is very important to remember their original location in the sleeves. This rule must be observed when removing the washers.
  • We carry out a careful inspection of the bearings. if they are damaged, this means the need to replace them with new parts.
  • We take it out here. She does not understand.
  • Bicycle rear hub body We clean it from dirt. All internal cavities must be wiped with a dry cloth.
  • When installing back, each part is thoroughly lubricated, special attention should be paid to the bearings during this process.
  • The last step is to install the stopper and tighten the fastening nut. DO NOT use heavy force to tighten, as this can result in a problem with free wheel rotation.

Of course, everything looks quite easy and simple, but there are a lot of nuances in servicing the rear hub of a bicycle. they must be known and taken into account during operation:

  • First, the direct disassembly of the bushing should be started only after the cassette has been removed. Moreover, the sleeve is disassembled from the opposite side and, as a rule, it is on the left. The locknut, if any, is unscrewed with a 15 mm wrench, then the stopper is removed (again, if any).
  • Secondly, you need to be extremely careful when removing washers and rings. they will need to be laid out on a pre-prepared sheet of paper in the exact order if this moment is overlooked, then assembling the rear bicycle hub after cleaning and lubricating it can turn into real torment.
  • Thirdly, after twisting the housing of the rear hub, it will begin to succumb to it. just at this moment the bearings will appear. And again, you need to be extremely careful when removing the bearings. the parts are small and easy to lose. Each bearing Removing with knitting needles or tweezers, wipe thoroughly with a cloth soaked in kerosene or gasoline, and put it aside. Just in the process of wiping, the bearings must be carefully inspected for damage, and if there are any, then the part must be replaced.
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Note: in the articles and instructions for servicing the rear hub of a bicycle, you can find a recommendation to use acetone to wipe bearings. this is permissible, but it should be borne in mind that the aroma from such a product will NOT be the most pleasant, and acetone can corrode the skin on the fingers. And one more thing. many “kulibins” use a magnet in order not to lose small bearings. this should never be done! The fact is that the bearing is magnetized and during the operation of the bicycle, iron dust is attracted to these small parts. the fact that soon the hub will become unusable can be predicted with confidence.

It is highly undesirable to confuse the left and right parts when disassembling / assembling the rear hub of a bicycle. this can lead to wheel play. If at least one ball is lost, then it will be necessary to carry out a full replacement of the bearings. Sometimes, when opening the bushing near the axle, you can observe iron “dust”. this means that the bearings are completely worn out, they must be completely replaced.

Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other

One of the reasons for dividing rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear hubs are divided into:

  • Without brake.
  • With built-in brakes.

According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts must be removed with a wrench, and in order to remove the wheel to the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It will only take a couple of seconds.

The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:

  • Aluminum (lightweight and NOT corroded).
  • Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).

The bushings also differ in the size of the wasp, the standards are different. from 9mm to 15mm. Keep in mind that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.

Bicycle hub repair

Repairing and rebuilding a bicycle hub is one of the most common requests for biking enthusiasts. After all, this is the most loaded bearing unit and it is subjected to shock loads, and the bearings are friction, and the direction of the force applied to the wheels is constantly changing. Moreover, the bearings of the bicycle hubs are subject to corrosion and dirt ingress. Wasps, dogs, balls, cones and other parts are often destroyed. All these factors make the request for service and repair of bicycle hubs one of the most popular, while the fact that the wheels primarily affect the ride performance make the work of our bicycle mechanics responsible.

1) Repairing the rear hub of the bike

A) Repair and overhaul the rear hub of a speed bike (less than 8 speeds)

As a rule, in inexpensive bicycles there is a system where the cassette is threaded onto the rear wheel hub flange. Such bushings (tapered bearings) are the simplest and most NOT reliable.

Bulkhead with lubricant change costs 600 g.

But practice shows that, as a rule, such bushings need the following repair:

Axle replacement. 600 g. Plus the cost of a wasp 200-300 g.

Replacement of cones and bearings 600 g. Plus 200 g.

Attention. Please note that at 15% of calls, the destruction of the support part along which the balls move occurs, in such cases it is necessary to replace the entire bushing entirely (in rare cases, it is possible to press in a new support part)

B) Repair and overhaul of the rear hub of a bicycle type Shimano (8 or more speeds) with a tapered bearing

Such bushings operate on 4 bearings (2 support, 2 drum), and all of them are adjustable in their design. The most common problems. Backlash (as a rule, cones are destroyed along the way), drum backlash, drum spinning (lack of engagement)

A bulkhead with a lubricant change costs 500 r.

Replacement of wasp or cones 500g (Plus cost of parts from 200 to 600g)

Drum bulkhead with grease change and 1200 g backlash adjustment.

Attention. Please note that there is always residual play in the drum. It is also not always possible to restore the working capacity of the drum (its engagement), sometimes it is easier and cheaper to change a part (drum or sleeve) for a new one. It is also possible to destroy the support part of the left bearing (it happens extremely rarely, as a rule, on rolled wheels)

B) repair of the rear bush with industrial support bearings.

In such bushings there are support bearings. The industrial drum bearing is made according to the Shimano principle. For example, such bushings include some models (in order of prevalence) SunRingle, Novatec, Choosen, Mavic, DTswiss, Fulcrum. As a rule, these are inexpensive hubs with a price of up to 3000 or used in wheels with a price of up to 10,000 r.

Most common problems

The cost of work is 400-600 g, plus the cost of bearings (about 300 rubles per piece)

Drum bulkhead price with lubricant change and backlash adjustment 1200 g.

D) repair of bushings on industrial bearings.

As a rule, these are expensive products. Usually in their design there are two support (less often three) bearings and two drum bearings (one may NOT be industrial, but for example a sleeve bearing like in the Mavic)

The bulkhead of such bushings is reduced to replacing the worn-out industrial bearings and replacing the lubricant in the gearing mechanism. Dogs (Mavic, Fulcrum) or Other solutions (DTswiss, AmericnClassic)

Cost of work from 400 to 600 g.

The cost of industrial bearings is from 300 to 500 rubles per piece

D) repair and overhaul of planetary bushings.

Recently, dozens of structures have been created, which differ from each other in the principle of lubrication, the principle of assembly. Disassembly and switching. As a rule, planetary structures are quite reliable and therefore their owners rarely bother themselves with preventive work.

Thus, for diagnostics and in half of the cases in disassembly, we cannot accurately determine the cost of work.

As a rule, changing the lubricant (with a complete flushing of the mechanism) solves most of the problems: fuzzy shifting, clatter, clicks, etc. The cost of work is from 900 to 1500 g.

Complex work associated with changing parts and grinding work surfaces cost from 1000 g.

2) Repair of the front bicycle hubs

A) Repair and overhaul of front Shimano type hubs with tapered bearing

Typically, front hubs last significantly longer than rear hubs and require less attention. Nevertheless, a bulkhead with a lubricant change costs 500 g in our service.

Replacement of spare parts is rarely required, as a rule, a cone and now cost from 200 to 400 g.

B) Repair and overhaul of front bushings on industrial bearings

The most reliable class of bicycle hubs. They rarely require attention and the cost of repairs is not great. 400 to 500 g.

As a rule, there are 2 bearings in the bushings, which change every 3000-10000 km.