Removing the pedals
When removing the pedals, you need to pay attention to the following: the right pedal from the chain side is unscrewed as usual counterclockwise, the left pedal is unscrewed on the contrary. clockwise.
Take a wrench of a suitable size and unscrew the pedals by hooking the wrench onto the pedal at the very edge of the crank.
Hold the pedal with your free hand to prevent it from falling to the floor.
Removing the steering column
Hold the fork during this step; after removing the bolts that hold the column in the head tube, the fork may fall out. As a result, the bearings can be damaged. You may not have to face this, if your bike has a non-separable steering column, then this will not happen.
Unscrew the bolt on the top of the column cover.
Unscrew the ring nuts on the column shaft (just at this time, the fork may fall out).
If there are rolling rings, remove them from the fork.
Remove the bearings from the cups on the frame. Put them on a clean sheet of paper, you can grease them with special grease for bearings.
- First, clean the bearing from old grease, for example, with a solvent.
- Lubricate the bearing balls with a suitable grease.
Memorize, photograph, or record the location of the bearing rings and cups and the disassembly sequence. It will need to be assembled exactly in the reverse order.
Remove the steering wheel
Unscrew the bolts located on the stem of the steering column, they tightly fix the steering wheel in one position.
Do not lose the lock plate after removing the last bolt.
Removing the brakes
Remove the screws holding the brake levers at the bottom of the handlebar.
Remove the brake levers from the steering wheel, try not to drop anything.
Unscrew the bolt on the fork that holds the brake.
Now is the time to change the brake pads and clean the brakes if necessary.
- If the brakes are V-break (as in the picture), then it is necessary on each side to unscrew the small screw that holds the brake pad.
- After removal, unscrew another small screw as in the figure, it holds the pad itself, remove it from the metal backing.
- Change the block to a new one. The brake pads are not expensive, but they significantly increase road safety due to reliable braking.
Remove the left connecting rod
First, let’s start removing the left connecting rod, it is easier to remove it, since the right connecting rod is connected to an asterisk. Standard thread on both connecting rods.
First you need to remove the dust cap. Then unscrew the connecting rod bolt in the place where the connecting rod connects to the carriage. Most often, a hex wrench is needed, but there may be options. it all depends on the brand of the connecting rod.
- You should see the threads inside the connecting rod and the bottom bracket shaft.
Unscrew the handle of the connecting rod puller slightly, as shown in the figure, the puller pusher should be hidden in its threaded part.
Screw the puller carefully into the connecting rod. The puller must enter to the full depth, as when removing the connecting rods, a lot of force will be applied to the threads.
Turn the puller handle clockwise, so the pusher will be screwed into place of the bolt securing the connecting rod. The connecting rod with some effort should be removed from the carriage.
How To Remove, Regrease And Replace Your Bottom Bracket | Mountain Bike Mechanics
Removing the pedal from the bike: step by step instructions
So, let’s look at the main steps on how to remove a pedal from a bicycle without a puller:
- Using a screwdriver, remove the plug from the end of the part.
- We unscrew the platform from the connecting rod using an adjustable wrench. Right pedal counterclockwise, left pedal clockwise.
- We unscrew the control nut. At the same time, we hold the connecting rod axis with the second key.
- Remove the washer, which is located at the end of the pedal.
- We remove the platform from the axle and at the same time hold the bearings. Dismantling ready.
With clipless pedals, the circuit is a little more complicated. Therefore, before removing the pedal from the bike, you must have a special device. The connecting rod has a thread into which the puller is screwed in and begins to squeeze the connecting rod from the axis. At the end of the work, we put the pedal in place, check the strength of the part, and install the plug.
Bicycle bottom bracket: what is it and why?
The carriage is a unit located in the middle of the frame, placed in a special cavity. a glass. Where to looking for? It’s simple: it is hidden where the cranks with pedals and stars are located. The main functions of the carriage are to connect the cranks to the bike frame and provide torque when pedaling.
A quite reasonable question may arise: what, without this device, you can not do at all? There is no bicycle without a carriage. If such a person is still caught, it means that he is not in use now.
Depending on the bike model, carriages differ in size and maintainability. The most common are 68mm knots, but other diameters can also be found. Carriage shaft length range: 110mm, 113mm and 122.5mm.
- cartridge (disposable);
- collapsible to be repaired.
The first type includes carriages that are installed in the frame and cannot be disassembled. Obviously, the service life of such a mechanism is equal to the time of complete wear of the bearings or axle. Full sealing of the unit allows you to operate it for a long time even in extreme conditions, not to mention measured driving.
Collapsible mechanisms will require periodic inspection and maintenance from the owner. The latter consists in replacing worn bearings and lubricating the entire assembly. We will just talk about them further: how to remove the carriage, eliminate the malfunction and reassemble the assembly.
Removing the carriage: doing it right!
It makes perfect sense to first remove the assembly from the bike frame to fix the problem. To be precise, take it out of the glass. Just about how to do it yourself, and the conversation will go.
Trick for Removing a Bottom Bracket on a Bicycle
So, before proceeding with the removal procedure, you will need a set of tools:
- Connecting rod squeeze.
- Wrench. If the size of the nut is unknown, then an adjustable wrench will go.
- Flat screwdriver.
- Small hammer.
- Carriage puller for removing from the glass.
Before proceeding with disassembly, all space around the carriage should be cleaned. A damp cloth removes all dirt and dust from the frame, bottom bracket area and connecting rods. This will be enough so that excess dirt does not get inside during parsing. But it will be better if you wash the whole bike. Cleanliness is the best repair assistant. Proven!
Plugs are removed from the connecting rods. Basically, these are plastic covers that can be easily pry off with a screwdriver and can also be easily inserted back. Next, you need to unscrew the nuts securing the connecting rods to the carriage. A squeeze will help in this matter: we put it on a nut, then we take the key and unscrew it. Depending on the type of thread, the direction of loosening and tightening the nuts may vary. There is an option where the thread is right on the left side (counterclockwise. loosening), and on the right side. left (counterclockwise. tightening). Maybe only right-hand thread on both sides, it will be easy to figure it out.
The next step is to remove the connecting rods. The squeeze is inserted at the other end and twisted into the connecting rod. The squeeze bolt is forcibly screwed into the connecting rod, as a result of which it gradually comes off the axis. It is recommended to start removal from the side where there are no transmission stars.
The bicycle carriage is held in place by means of special cups fixed with rings. A screwdriver is attached to the ring so that its end points to the left. By lightly tapping the hammer on the screwdriver, the ring smoothly turns to the left and jumps off. Similarly, by turning to the left, using the percussion method, the cup is also removed.
So, finally we got to the bottom bracket bearings. These small parts can be removed with the same screwdriver: pry, and they will pop out.
And, finally, a removable device pulls out the carriage shaft from the glass. a rotating part that plays a major role in the mobility of the bicycle cranks.
Troubleshooting: maintenance, cleaning, replacement
Dismantled the carriage, pulled it out of the frame and what do we see? The condition of the bottom bracket depends on how much dirt gets into it and how much the bearings are worn out. Sometimes the bearings simply shatter and require a complete replacement. This often happens if the carriage assembly has been in operation for more than three to five years.
First, all parts must be checked for defects. This primarily applies to bearings. Then we inspect the carriages, cups with latches. If any component has visible damage, then you need to change it to a new one. The rest of the parts are cleaned in a solvent. The most difficult thing will be to clean the bearings: dirt is very firmly adhered between the balls.
The space inside the carriage glass is cleaned with a rag. It is better to sprinkle fine dirt with a lubricating spray (WD-40, for example) and wipe the walls with a soft dry cloth.
How to disassemble a bicycle pedal
Before proceeding with the analysis of bicycle pedals, you should find out why there was a crackling, creaking, crunching or knocking in them. And first of all, see if there may be mechanical damage on the pedals. chips, cracks or something else.
Also, look to see if the attachment to the connecting rods has weakened over time. Or maybe moisture has got into the junction or dirt has accumulated there. By the way, for preventive purposes, experts recommend from time to time to unscrew the pedals, wash them thoroughly, wipe them dry and lubricate.
You can also check each pedal for backlash. To do this, hold the pedal axle and move the platform back and forth. If there is a backlash, then the position is easily corrected by tightening the lock nut, which is located directly under the plug.
However, if the pedal is spinning tightly or the backlash is large enough (for example, the pedal just dangles), then it is better to sort it out. over, there is nothing particularly complicated in this process either, and from the tools you only need an adjustable wrench. The main thing is to do everything sequentially, step by step:
- The pedals must be removed from the crank arm. And you need to remember how they are unscrewed: the right axis has a right thread, and the left axis has a left one. Accordingly, the right one is twisted counterclockwise, and the left one clockwise.
- Remove the pedal end cap with a screwdriver.
- Next, you need to unscrew the lock nut while holding the pedal axle with a wrench.
- After the lock washer is removed.
- And the cone is carefully unscrewed.
- Very carefully, so as not to roll out, the bearings are taken out (and folded somewhere no less neatly so that the balls do not roll out and get lost).
- The pedal platform is removed from the axle.
That’s all. the bicycle pedal can be considered disassembled.
The bicycle pedals of the contact type are disassembled a little differently. This design is more complicated and tighter in torsion. It’s actually better not to take these pedals apart. But as soon as the need arose, this should be done very carefully and carefully, clearly following the prescribed instructions.
And here you will need not only an adjustable wrench, but also a specific bicycle tool. In particular, the connecting rod puller, as well as a set of keys. for 7, 10 and 15.
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Unscrew the pedal by putting the connecting rod puller in the place indicated on the pedal with a special arrow.
- Remove the axle from the pedal body (after unscrewing the pedal, this is very easy to do).
- Unscrew the lock nut that holds the entire structure. To do this, the pedal will have to be held tightly with a key or clamped in a vice.
- Further, the nodes and elements are removed sequentially according to visual assessment. And here you need to be especially careful, since there are small balls inside. 12 on each side. They must not be lost.
After that, the contact pedal is disassembled. Now you need to clean everything, wipe it dry and grease it again. Places where balls are placed require a particularly thick lubricating layer.
Any pedals are assembled in the reverse order of analysis.
How to disassemble a bicycle pedal
If someone thinks that pedals are the most hassle-free and never-breaking parts of a bicycle, he, she or they are wrong. Clip-on pedals can easily fail. Especially when it comes to cheap models. Therefore, you need to choose the pedals with great care.
How to sort out a hub with a coaster brake
Bicycles with one gear and foot brake are still popular today, because many people simply do not need a bicycle with gears for their purposes. Also, single-speed hubs are available on all children’s bicycles up to 20 inches. They are reliable, simple in design, but the problem is that if a low-quality lubricant is used in the hub, it will strongly resist rotation and it will be frankly difficult to ride a bicycle. And if an adult can resist this resistance, then the child after a short period of time simply will not want to get on the bike anymore. Therefore, take care of changing the grease in the rear hub.
We’ll be looking at the rear wheel bulkhead for an adult bike, but keep in mind that the construction is exactly the same on kids’ bikes. For the purity of the experiment, we took a new wheel, weakened the cones so that it spins easily, but also does not play. This is how it spins
Bearing grease. We will use Mobil XHP 222 multifunctional grease. You can get by with cheaper greases such as lithol.
!Important. The lubricant must be plastic (not liquid).
We start work on the right side (where the asterisk is located).
Remove the retaining ring holding the star with a screwdriver
Remove the star and the metal boot, then grab the 15 mm cone with a cone wrench and loosen the lock nut with a 17 mm wrench
Unscrew and take out the right side of the coupling together with the bearings
We take out the left part of the clutch together with the brake lever
As you can see, this is not the worst option for lubrication. Despite its overly viscous consistency, judging by the flash photo, the grease is similar to graphite. But this happens on adult bicycles. Unfortunately, for children, either a drying paste or “Moment” glue is laid, which simply do not allow the wheel to spin normally. It’s good if the bushing manufacturer regrets the lubrication. then your child will be able to ride more or less normally. Otherwise, cycling will take place with a great deal of suffering.
First, remove as much of the grease as possible with rags or toilet paper. Take some kind of cleaner (we used a pressure cylinder carburetor cleaner) or solvent and clean as much of the inside of the bushing as possible. By the way, the beloved WD-40 is also suitable.
Wipe clean the parts. If you don’t have a cleaner, you can simply wipe it down more thoroughly with rags.
Apply grease to the inside of the bushing housing, including the surfaces that the bearing interacts with
The main task is to assemble the left side of the clutch and completely install it into the bushing together with the pads.
We install a washer in part of the coupling, behind it a spring so that the antennae are directed outward
Lubricate the cone next to the brake lever, install a bearing on it
!The bearing should rest against the bushing cup with balls, and on the other side should be supported by a cone.
We fall with antennae into special holes made in the cone. For clarity, the photo without lubrication
Lubricate part of the coupling, put pads on it. The protrusions on the pads must lie on the cone between its protrusions
In this form, we install the resulting structure into the sleeve body.
We install a bearing of a larger diameter into the bushing housing with balls inward, and a bearing of a smaller diameter into the right side of the coupling, after having lubricated all surfaces
We tighten the coupling, fasten the cone and locknut, then grab the cone and tighten the locknut. It is important to choose a moment when the wheel turns easily, but does not have any backlash.
We install the boot, the asterisk, and then put the retaining ring in the groove specially designed for it
The video shows a visual result of changing the lubricant (compare with the video at the beginning of the article)
An hour-long video of single speed hub with coaster brake overhaul will perfectly complement our article.