How to disassemble the pedal assembly of a stealth bike

How to put a pedal on a bike.

I would like to immediately highlight one question that sometimes arises from some cyclists. It is associated with the compatibility of the thread on the pedals and connecting rods and the different standards adopted in modern bicycle construction and in Soviet times. The fact is that the threads on modern pedals do not fit the threads cut in the Soviet connecting rods. This issue is discussed in more detail in the article “Thread compatibility on bicycle pedals and cranks”.

If you are all right with this question, consider how to put the pedal in the connecting rod.

    Check the threads for grease before installing the pedal. If not, it is better to apply a layer of lubricant to the threads. So you will protect it from corrosion, from sticking to the connecting rod and make your life easier in the future. it will be easier to remove it later. You can use lithol, grease and other waterproof lubricants.

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By the way, before starting the installation process, it would be very good to clean from old grease and dirt with a degreaser not only the thread on the pedal axis, but also the thread in the connecting rods.

Degreaser. it is a special degreasing compound designed to remove dirt, grease, oil.

  • It is best to begin to twist the pedal with your hands, strictly perpendicular to the connecting rod axis. This is the least likely to damage the thread when the axis is misaligned.
  • All actions during setting are similar to removal, only they need to be twisted in the other direction, compared to unscrewing.
  • If there is a slot for a hexagon wrench at the end of the pedal axis, then it can be screwed in with a hexagon. The minus of the hexagon is that it will not be possible to give a strong load on it and screw the pedal well. Therefore, it is best to tighten it first with a hexagon, and then finally tighten it well with an open-end wrench.
  • It is necessary to twist the axle into the connecting rod strongly, but without fanaticism. It is very difficult to break the thread there, but it will be difficult to untwist the fanatically tightened thread.
  • After installation, remove any excess grease that has formed around the connecting rod connection. So dirt and dust will not accumulate in this place.
  • How to remove and reinstall the pedals on a bicycle. Features and nuances.

    A situation has arisen that it is necessary to unscrew the pedals from the bike, but you do not know how to do it correctly. Let’s take a look at how to perform this operation quickly and easily.

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    Tech Tuesday: How to Remove and Install Pedals

    Read on. Replacing the pedals should be a relatively straightforward task compared to other mechanical jobs you might have to do on your bike. after all, it only requires one tool and only a few steps. So why do so many riders run into trouble when trying to remove the pedals? It seems like it should be fast, but a simple job can sometimes turn into a nightmare with bloody knuckles and confusion. Below you will learn how not to go down this path when the time comes to do the job.

    Watch the video to see how easy it is to remove and install the pedals!

    Step-by-step instructions for removing and installing the pedal Required tools: Pedal wrench (15mm open end wrench or 6/8mm hex wrench also fits some pedals) and lubricant

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    All you ‘you need a pedal wrench and some grease.

    It will be much easier for you to do this job if you hold your bike with its wheels right side up in the following steps: When I speak of loosening or tightening the pedals, I will use the terms clockwise and counterclockwise as if you were looking at the other side. you are working on.

    Before starting this work, you need to familiarize yourself with how to release the pedals. Sounds simple enough, right? The curved ball is that the left pedal ( non-drive side ) has a left-hand thread, which means you turn it clockwise to disengage it from the connecting rod. Right pedal ( leading side ) has a standard right-hand thread, turn it to the left to loosen it Again: turn the non-drive pedal clockwise to loosen it, turn the drive side pedal counterclockwise to loosen it.

    Some pedals have four wrench flats to make it easier to place the pedal wrench in the desired location. Some also have 6 or 8 mm hex access on the back of the spindle. These pedals have only two wrench flats.

    Unlike many other repairs, I find this much easier to do when the bike is on the ground. The reason for this is that sometimes it takes a strong push to release the pedals, and sometimes the stand has enough deflection to make it difficult. Also, placing the bike on the floor will give you more flexibility as you can use your body weight. to help yourself.

    By aligning the handle and pedal wrench in this position, you can use your body weight to release the pedal.

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    Let’s start with the pedal on the drive side. Align the drive end crank so that it is at or close to the 3 o’clock position. Some pedals have four wrench flats (, located on the spindle, just behind the connecting rod ), which will make it easier to fit the pedal wrench so that it is easier to loosen it, you can only have two opposite wrench flats. Ideally, the wrench should be close to the parallel, if slightly higher, connecting rod. As you turn the wrench counterclockwise to loosen the pedal, this will allow you to push from above and use your body weight to pry out the pedal. Do not knock your knuckles against the rings of the chain or chain guide when the pedal is loose. Once it is free, you can rotate it fully, being careful not to lose the pedal washer, if there is one.

    Set the drive pedal to the 3 o’clock position

    3.Now remove the non-drive side pedal. Rotate the crank so that it is at or close to the 9 o’clock position. Again, this will allow you to use more levers after you place the pedal wrench in the same way you did when you removed the drive end pedal. Turn the wrench down and clockwise using your body weight. When it spins freely, it is completely unscrewed, making sure not to lose the pedal washer, if you have one.

    Turn the non-drive side pedal to the 9 o’clock position

    4.Before reinstalling the pedals, take a minute to clean the threads of the crank and pedal of any dirt. Before starting installation, apply a small amount of grease to the pedal threads as this will make it easier to remove them again in the future and minimize the chances of squeaking. Always start hand-tightening the pedals to reduce the chance of damage to the threads. Turn the drive pedal clockwise to tighten. To tighten, turn the non-drive end pedal counterclockwise. Finish tightening the pedals with the pedal wrench. Always be sure to double check that you tightened them, as losing pedaling on the trail can be disastrous! Did you find this episode of Tech Tuesday helpful? If you have any tips that you would like to share, please add them below.!

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    Each of them must have a label: which is left and which is right. Usually these are the English letters L. Left (left) and R –Right (right), respectively, for the left and right pedals.

    The left pedal is always made with a left hand thread. This means that it twists counterclockwise and unscrews clockwise.

    On the right. conventional right hand thread. Twists clockwise and unscrews counterclockwise.

    This is done so that when the pedals are spinning while the bike is moving, they do not unscrew.

    It’s easier to remember the rule: the pedals are unscrewed against the direction of the bicycle. twist to the rear wheel, and twist in the direction of travel. turn to the front wheel.

    What tool are pedals removed

    • Open-end wrench 15 mm
    • Various universal bicycle wrenches that have a 15mm wrench.
    • Adjustable wrench.
    • Some models are removable and reattached with 6/8/10 mm hex keys
    • There are special pedal wrenches that combine 15 open-end wrenches and hex wrenches in one tool.

    When using an adjustable wrench, be sure to pay attention to its thickness. The fact is that the distance between the pedal mount and the connecting rod is not large, and not every adjustable wrench will fit there. Some types of wrenches come with thin jaws that can be used. Open-end wrenches or special pedal keys are great for this operation.

    How to remove the pedals

    • This is best done with the bike on wheels. Why? The fact is that sometimes it takes quite a lot of effort to unscrew it and you have to use the whole body weight. It is easier to do this while the bike is on its wheels than when it is hanging from a rack.
    • Remove the right pedal. To do this, it is best to put the right crank at the 3 o’clock position: the crank is horizontal to the ground and turned towards the front wheel. Given that the right pedal has a normal thread, we unscrew it like a normal thread. counterclock-wise.
    • Then remove the left pedal. We put the left crank in the 9 o’clock position. It is again horizontal to the ground and angled towards the front wheel. Remember that there is a left-hand thread on the left pedal and unscrew it clockwise.

    Assembly and installation of the mechanism

    The installation of the carriage mechanism occurs inversely to the removal process.

    During work, it is important not to confuse the axle sections: letters corresponding to the sides are knocked out at the ends or on the plastic casing. Carriage bowls differ in thread orientation, left from right and vice versa

    The carriage and bowl threads are lubricated with a thin layer of lubricant to ensure sliding during subsequent unscrewing.

    A plastic casing is attached to the axle, bearings are placed in the bowls: if there are spacers, then the parts are stacked with spacers outward and balls inward.

    The assembly of the mechanism begins on the right: the axle rod is inserted into the right bowl with a left turn of the thread and screwed into the frame to the end, the left bowl is screwed in the same way with the right turn of the thread.

    Varieties of parts

    Carriages are open and closed:

    Closed. cartridges or capsule designs, with internal shaft and bearings.

    The closed model cannot be disassembled and is not subject to maintenance (with the exception of a few), in case of any breakdown, the part is replaced.

    The advantage of the model is a low level of pollution.

    The open carriage features screw-in bowls with bearings in the carriage tube of the frame and a rotating shaft.

    This type of mechanism requires precise frame parameters, in case of inaccuracies, distortions occur and the degree of protection against external influences decreases.

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    The model can be disassembled and cleaned, proper maintenance of the bicycle carriage prolongs the operation of the mechanism for a long time.

    The disadvantage of open parts is that they require constant maintenance and periodically warp the carriage shaft.

    When to service the rear hub

    For the correct operation of the wheel and its main parts, incl. bushings, it must be kept in good condition at all times. It needs lubrication, and its body needs to be tightened periodically. In addition, replacing the bearing balls and adjusting the pads on the brake sleeve will not interfere.

    Rear hub service is essential as in cases where this does not occur, the entire wheel may need to be repaired. Therefore, it is best to take care of your bike in the long run. It should be noted that servicing the rear hub is not much more difficult than servicing the front hub.

    It is necessary to perform maintenance in such cases:

    • If you hear body noise when the bike is moving or wobbling.
    • Backlash.
    • If the bearings crunch.
    • Poor rolling dynamics.

    If you do not pay attention to the above signs of illness of your bike and use it for a long time if they are present, it can quickly fail.

    Repair, in turn, will be much more expensive than simple wheel maintenance, which you can do yourself. Therefore, at the beginning of each season, check the wheel for play and that the bearings are not too tight.

    Housing disassembly, cleaning and lubrication

    Before proceeding with the disassembly of the case, it is necessary to clean the workplace, since it is very important to carry out all stages very carefully and with utmost care. First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the retaining ring and remove the washers and bearings

    In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

    Then we open the circlip and remove the washers and bearings. In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

    First, remove the cassette from the axle using a puller and a whip. Then we open the retaining ring and remove the washers and bearings

    In order not to get confused in details, it is important to remember the original location of the washers and bearings.

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    Rear wheel repair

    The rear and front wheels are important parts of a bike. Why? When driving on uneven surfaces (pits, bumps, stones), it is the wheels that take most of the impacts

    Therefore, timely maintenance helps to maintain not only comfort while riding, but also speed, which is equally important for every cyclist.

    In order to repair the rear wheel of a Stealth bike (do it yourself), you need to stock up on the necessary tools. For this we need:

    • wrenches (from 8 to 16);
    • set of hexagons;
    • pliers;
    • screwdrivers (Phillips and Hex).

    One of the main problems with the rear wheel is the uneven rim (figure eight). Every cyclist faces this challenge. Why can a wheel become a figure eight? As we learned, more than 85% of all shocks are taken by the wheels. Most of the load falls on the rear wheel.

    To align it, you need to install (perpendicular to the rim) two cotton matches, and use the pliers to loosen or strengthen the knitting needles. For example, if the rim is bent to the right, then the spokes on the left side must be tightened, and those on the opposite side must be loosened.

    Removing the carriage from the bike and maintaining it

    In this article, we will cover the maintenance of Shimano open bottom bogies. The carriage can be with loose bearings, so when removing it, be careful, as the balls can scatter in different directions, as well as in the form of a non-separable cartridge.

    In order to remove the connecting rods from the carriage axis, we need a connecting rod squeeze. The squeeze consists of two components: the right side is for squeezing the connecting rod from the carriage axis, and the left side is for removing the connecting rod fixing bolt.

    First of all, we unscrew the connecting rod tightening bolts or, in other words, the screw. which are located at the end of the carriage shaft using a pedal wrench. In some cases, these screws can be hidden under plastic covers, which can be easily removed with a flat screwdriver.

    After removing the fixing bolts, using the squeezing of the connecting rods, we screw the puller with the threaded part into the connecting rod until it stops, but here you need to tighten it progressively and without much effort so as not to break the thread. We remove the connecting rod from the carriage axis and wipe the seats. After removing the connecting rods from the carriage shaft, you need to remove the carriage itself, for this you need a shimano carriage puller.

    If you have a different carriage type, you will need other carriage pullers. In addition to the puller for shiamno, there is also a puller for integrated carriage cups and is suitable for HOLLOWTECH II, GXP, Howitzer. Another ISIS Bottom Bracket Puller with 8 Splined Puller Mount and is suitable for Shimano, Truvativ and SRAM. All types of pullers can also be equipped with handles, and you do not need an adjustable wrench.

    When unscrewing the carriage, it must be remembered that the carriage must be removed from the left side, that is, from the side where there are no stars on the connecting rod. We take a puller, insert it into the carriage slots on the left side and turn it counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench

    It is very important to avoid any distortions of the stripper when unscrewing the carriage cups, so as not to damage the cup itself and the stripper

    You need to twist until the carriage cup unscrews. After that, we perform similar actions on the right side, only here you need to take into account the fact that you need to turn clockwise. After the performed actions, the bicycle carriage will be removed. When replacing the carriage, the old carriage can be thrown away and the new one can be put in. When servicing the carriage, the bearings can be simply replaced with new ones.

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    After the carriage has been removed, it is necessary to check the carriage cup for dirt, sand and other things that could get there, both through the carriage and the seat tube of the bike.

    To service the carriage of a collapsible type, we take the carriage cups and check the condition of the bearings. Carefully wipe the bearings and seats from the old grease and what remains of it with a clean rag. The carriage threads can be flushed using kerosene, gasoline or WD-40. Wipe dry with a rag. After that, we take any thick grease and grease the seats with a small amount and, putting the bearings, add a little more grease. However, collapsible carriages are short-lived and require frequent maintenance and bearing adjustments.

    If the carriage is non-separable (cartridge type) and you have any problems with it, then it is better to replace it with a new one. To buy a new carriage, you need to know the shaft length, width (68 or 73 mm) and the type of connection with the connecting rods.

    If you have an integrated carriage, then you can change the bearings by replacing the seals. To check the condition of the industrial bearings, remove the boot and see the old bearings. They can be removed with a special puller for internal bearings or disposed of with a hammer and chisel (not recommended). We clean and lubricate the seat, after which we put new industrial bearings.

    installation of the stealth bomber ebike

    Before installing the carriage, wipe and lubricate all threaded connections.

    What tool are pedals removed

    When using an adjustable wrench, be sure to pay attention to its thickness. The fact is that the distance between the pedal mount and the connecting rod is not large, and not every adjustable wrench will fit there. Some types of wrenches come with thin jaws that can be used. Open-end wrenches or special pedal keys are great for this operation.

    How to remove and replace pedals on a bicycle

    A situation has arisen that it is necessary to unscrew the pedals from the bike, but you do not know how to do it correctly. Let’s take a look at how to perform this operation quickly and easily.

    Removing the pedals from the bike is easy enough, but don’t forget about preparing tools and materials, as well as possible problems. The main thing is to keep the entire system in order, since in case of damage or other problems, the inconvenience of using the bike will be very great.

    Design features

    How to choose bike pedals, read here.

    Despite the different appearance, the internals of the bike pedals are identical. There is an axis inside the plastic or metal case of the part. On the one hand, it is fixed to the connecting rod with a thread, and on the other, it is tightened with a lock nut and washer.

    To get to the lock nut, you need to dismantle the plug from the end of the pedal. Also, for smooth rotation, the pedals have two bearings.

    The first bearing is located under the washer, and on the other side of the axis inside the housing there is a second.

    The outside of the bike pedals can be fitted with rubber pads or a rim with metal teeth.

    This is intended to improve the grip of the cyclist’s foot on the pedal. Platform metal bike pedals often have pins that perform the same function.

    There may be reflectors or reflectors on the sides of the parts to help other riders see your bike from afar.

    As you can see, although the pedals have differences in external design, they remain almost the same from the inside. Therefore, the order of their parsing and lubrication will not differ.


    This form factor is a platform (platform) made of aluminum or magnesium, cast or machined on a milling machine, wide in size. Although some inexpensive models are made of high strength plastic. In fact, the body is a monolithic part with a threaded shaft, locknut, washer and bearings located inside. In addition, reflectors are sometimes used, hook pins screwed into the body. The pins rest against the cyclist’s sole and prevent it from sliding on the bike pedals. A positive point is its super strength (often used on bicycles for cross-country, freeride, and other extreme areas). Not used on road racing due to heavy weight.

    Removing the pedals

    After preparation, you can proceed to the removal process. For conventional mechanisms, it looks like this:

    • We move the system to the working side. in the direction of the steering wheel.
    • We try to carefully unscrew the pedals from the connecting rod.
    • Remove the plug at the end of the platform, open the lock nut.
    • Unscrew the lock nut, holding the axle at the connecting rod with the second key.
    • Remove the washer (also at the end).
    • Unscrew the cone.
    • We remove the platform from the axle, holding the bearings (it is better to remove them separately, if they are bulk, then put a rag or sheet so that they do not roll far).
    • Pedal removed and disassembled!

    It is important not to forget that the left and right pedals are unscrewed from the connecting rod in their direction: on the right axis. the right thread, on the left. the left.

    The contact devices are a little more difficult to disassemble, but they will not cause any problems. when twisting and disassembling, a puller is used, which should hold the axis with a small contact pad.