How to disassemble the front wheel of a bicycle

What does the wheel consist of?

Bicycle wheels are the most conservative component. Of course, there are models on cast disks, all-round wheels are put on track models, but they are in the minority. Still, the majority of bicycles are equipped with spoke wheels.

  • ordinary sleeve;
  • rim;
  • connecting knitting needles;
  • rim protective tape (flipper);
  • camera and tire;
  • disc (on models with disc brakes).

The hub is the axial part of the wheel, it is an assembly of the central axle, bearings and tapered retainers. Cone bearing systems are most often mounted on bushings with open bearings. They can also be equipped with sealed bearings or slips.

Rim. supporting structure, metal ring. The rims are made mostly of aluminum, with carbon rims being used on expensive models. In terms of rigidity and power, they are divided into three types:

  • single-walled. the outer and inner surfaces have one line of contact (jumper);
  • double. the inner surface is attached to the sidewalls, separated from the outer;
  • triple. the strongest and most durable option: the inner wall is also fixed to the sidewalls, but, unlike the double rim, the triple has an additional wall in the middle.

Vertical bridges form channels running in the direction of rotation. According to the number of such channels, modern rims are divided into one, three- and five-piece:

disassemble, front, wheel, bicycle

Spokes. elements of the connection between the hub and the rim. They perform the functions of securing, distributing loads along the rim and central axis, and mitigating vibrations during movement. The rim is perforated, each hole is designed to hold one spoke. The number of spokes is set on a bicycle wheel in multiples of four. Depending on the model, their number varies. from 28 to 40 on average.

The number of spokes for the front wheel is usually less than the number for the rear. This is due to the fact that the bulk of the load falls on the rear of the bike, and there the wheel must be stronger.

  • standard (rolled). constant circular cross-section along the entire length from the bushing attachment to the tip;
  • aerodynamic (blade-like). elliptical or rectangular profile;
  • variable cross-section (pulled). standard cross-section at the heads and tapering towards the middle.

The inner tube is the inside of the tire that holds the pressurized air inside. Tire. the outer shell that makes contact with the road, absorbs bumps, protects the camera. The tire is made of a harder rubber than the tube.

Rim tape, or flipper, is a rubber lining under the tube to protect it from puncture on the spoke tips. Dynamic loads force the walls of the chamber to bend, which causes them to be pressed against the rim surface. Without a flipper, the chamber can be pushed into the hole with the spoke tip. This problem is more pronounced on the rear wheel, where the loads are higher, but the presence of a flipper is mandatory on the front. The torn tape must be replaced with a new one. A proven homemade option. glue the rim with several layers of electrical tape, except for the hole for the nipple.

How to loop through the rear and front hubs on a speed bike

Bulkhead of the bushing, whether it be rear or front, is an event that can be either forced, due to water entering the bushing, or routine. Its purpose is for the most part preventive. to change the lubricant and, if necessary, replace some components. If we are talking about a classic cone bike, then it can be a worn ball or a cone. However, on high-speed bicycles, there is another type of support that also needs maintenance.

What is needed to untwist the sleeve?

  • Open-end wrench 17
  • Cone wrench 15 (in different bushings there are different sizes of cones 14, 15, 16)
  • Bearing grease
  • Piece of cloth.

Removing the front wheel from the fork

Removing a wheel is the simplest maintenance procedure for your bike. This is done very simply:

  • Turn the bike upside down.
  • Release the rim brake, remove the caliper from the disc.
  • Loosen the fasteners from the fork dropouts.
  • Remove the wheel axle from the mountings.

On dropouts, the mount is nut and eccentric. In the first case, you will need two 15 mm wrenches. with one we hold the nut, with the other we carefully twist it on the opposite side. With the eccentric, everything is easier. loosen the retaining nut and fold the clamping lever.

  • replacement of tubes / tires;
  • tightening / loosening of the spokes;
  • bulkhead bushing;
  • rim painting.

Installing the front wheel on the fork is done in reverse order.

Bulkhead front hub on a bicycle

Today we will deal with the bulkhead of the front hub on the bike. This operation is included in the complete maintenance of the bike. This procedure should be performed once a year to maintain the long life of your bushing.

the task of bushing bulkhead is to replace obsolete grease, which during operation has absorbed dirt and moisture from the environment, as well as particles of metal shavings appearing by friction of the bearings against the bushing cups.

How to apply lubricant

The goal is to lubricate balls, cones and cups. This can be done as quickly and efficiently as possible using the following technology:

  • Lubricate the cup with your finger.
  • Put the balls into the cup using medical tweezers, observing the intended purpose of the groups sorted during disassembly.
  • Apply a thin layer of lubricant over the balls.
  • Repeat steps 1-3 for the second side.
  • Put the boot on the locked cone located on the side of the cassette (relevant only for the rear bushings).
  • Apply a thin layer of grease to the beveled surface of both cone nuts.
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There should not be a lot of lubricant at the contact points. This statement is relevant only because excess grease is squeezed out through the anthers, and it intensively begins to collect dust. You can estimate the sufficient filling level from the photo. There are usually no problems with the installation of balls. They adhere well to the lubricant, which is already in the cup according to paragraph 1 of the technological instructions.

It is customary to lightly coat the thread on the axle and the ends of the nuts with a compound that was used to treat rubbing surfaces. This activity is designed to minimize oxidation of metals and the formation of rust at the interface of detachable parts.

Next, you need to carefully insert the axis. Remember to enter it from the side of the cassette. That is, the untouched cone nut should be on the side opposite to the position of the disc brake rotor. After inserting and tightening the cone nut and lock nut on the left side, proceed with the adjustment:

  • Screw in the previously unlocked cone by hand until it stops.
  • Loosen the tightening by turning the flare nut in the opposite direction. It is enough to unscrew it about half a turn, and then make sure by staggering the axle in different directions if there is any backlash. If there are none, then it is necessary to loosen up again and check the beat again. The purpose of this stage is to catch a slight play, slightly perceptible with your fingers.
  • Tighten the cone nut slightly. This can be any angle within 1/4 of a turn from the position found in the previous paragraph. Backlash must go away.
  • Lift the wheel and check its free play by twisting the structure by the spokes or drum. There is no specific criterion for assessing the smoothness of rotation: someone looks to see if the rim turns under the weight of a nipple or reflector, someone relies on experience, examining the nature of the free wheeling by eye. If the stroke is tight, the nut must be slightly loosened.
  • When the wheel rotates freely, the cone can be countered. To do this, use a thin wrench to fix the flare nut, and tighten the lock nut tightly with a union tool.
  • Make sure there are no backlashes.

At the end of the assembly process, a second row of anthers is put on and an eccentric is installed. In this case, it is important to check the tightness of the seating of these rubber bands. So, the situation depicted in the photo is not allowed. When replacing the cassette, align the thinnest spline with the smallest groove on the sprocket set. It is advisable to lubricate the end of the lock nut with the same grease that was used to treat the bearings. No whip needed during assembly.

After installing the wheel on the bike and fixing the eccentric, check that there is no play in various positions (rotate a small angle and check). A slight runout is allowed only in one of the investigated wheel positions. If the backlash is noticeable in any position, do not rush to repeat the procedure for adjusting the cones. tighten the eccentric. This helps to select a slight backlash.

How to assemble a bike fork?

The assembly of the plug takes place in the reverse order of the parsing process and it is impractical to describe it additionally. The main thing is to carefully follow the order of the described procedures.

Removing the fork from a bike?

To remove the fork from the bike for subsequent maintenance or complete replacement, it is necessary to turn the bike upside down, release the brake (if it is a rim brake) and remove the front wheel. At the second stage, the steering wheel with the stem is removed, then the steering tube.

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After that, we remove the plug, it is extremely important not to lose the balls from the bearings. Then the support tapered ring is removed from the fork stem (usually using a sharp measure, gently squeezing it from all sides). Then we have a plug ready for service.

Individual users are advised to sort out even new, just purchased forks, explaining this by the need for individual debugging of the element.

How to disassemble a bicycle fork (using the example of a spring-electric fork) read below:

This completes the fork disassembly process and begins the process of caring for the parts received: a thorough inspection of the elements for damage, cracks and other things is necessary, thoroughly rinse with kerosene and lubricate the elements that need it. It is important to lubricate the springs with heavy grease for best fork performance.

Front forks

The assortment of forks is diverse, they are grouped according to the type of shock absorption and device features.

  • tough;
  • spring;
  • spring oil;
  • air;
  • air-oil;
  • spring-elastomeric.

Hard ones contribute to the development of maximum speed on a flat asphalt road. Air, spring / elastomer, and spring forks soften sidewalk descent, but do not completely eliminate shock from small cobblestones. Air- and spring-oil units remove even minor shocks as a result of hitting a gap in the asphalt surface.

Air and air-oil forks can be adjusted for athletes whose weight differs from the usual 70-100 kg. To adjust the stiffness of these elements, you will need a high pressure pump, you will need to carry it with you on long journeys.

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According to the features of the device, bicycle forks are divided into:

  • ordinary, or one-sided;
  • one-legged;
  • double-crown;
  • inverted type.

Conventional (single-sided) mechanisms are used on vehicles that are intended for cycling tourism, riding on uneven terrain. Double corners are required for high-speed exits outside prepared tracks. Inverted structures are needed for jumping from dumps. One-legged elements support the axle with a cantilever attachment on one side only. This allows the camera to be repaired without first removing the front wheel.

Fork repair and disassembly process

Manipulations to completely change oil, seals or oil seals and to eliminate breakdowns require complete or selective disassembly of the front fork. This procedure is performed as follows:

  • set the bike down with the saddle, release the brake, remove the front wheel, handlebar with stem and tube;
  • remove the plug, while it is necessary not to loose the balls of the bearings. Use a sharp object to remove the stem ring.

On the spring-elastomer design, we will try to understand in what sequence the fork should be disassembled:

  • Unscrew the lower fixing bolts using the hexagon socket.
  • Unscrew the bolt coordinating the force of the spring, remembering its stroke.
  • Pull out the elastomer, if necessary, change its value by simply cutting off the excess.
  • Unscrew the bolts and remove the pants, from which, with a screwdriver, remove the anthers and bosses, rotating them clockwise.

Then all elements should be examined for defects and washed in kerosene. Parts that require lubrication must be treated with a suitable agent. Experts recommend lubricating the spring with a thick product. this will make the fork work more efficiently. The assembly procedure is exactly the opposite and does not require additional explanation. The replacement of a shock absorbed bicycle fork should be entrusted to a person who specializes in such work, or to carry out this procedure in full accordance with his recommendations.

Experienced cyclists can repair the fork with their own hands, because in the process of using a person interested in the device of his vehicle gradually memorizes the names and functions of the elements, and therefore it will not be difficult for him to detect the problem and fix it. Those who have recently become the owner of this type of transport and have not yet acquired the necessary skills and knowledge should seek help from an experienced master.

Why you need to remove a bicycle fork

Obviously, there is no need to simply dismantle it from the bike. There are a number of reasons for this. replacement, overhaul and service. Replacement means removing an unusable part and installing a new one instead.

Repair. partial replacement of components. These can be bearings, washers, spring, damper or oil seal. Service includes adjustment, cleaning, lubrication.

The main symptoms that indicate removing the fork from the bike and putting it in order:

  • knocking on the move;
  • the fork is stuck and not adjustable;
  • bearing wear;
  • lack of lubrication (creaks);
  • cranking, heavy steering;
  • cracked legs and pants.

The device of the classic front shock absorption system is a metal spring and a rubber damper. Shrinkage of the spring and elongation of the elastomer rod degrade the properties of the shock absorber, making it stiffer. Regardless of the setting, the fork will knock on obstacles.

A knock on irregularities such as it would be on a rigid fork predicts a quick repair.

Backlash and tight handlebar travel indicate worn bearings and o-rings, as well as a dirty fork cavity. A suspicious creak when the bike is moving indicates that it is necessary to lubricate the part, and you cannot do without removing it.

Any mechanical damage leads to unexpected breakdown of the system. If cracks are found on the body and legs, the fork should be immediately replaced with a new one.!

In disassembling the shock absorber with your own hands, you will need tools:

  • Screwdriver Set;
  • flat sharp object;
  • sliding wrenches;
  • hexagon;
  • small hammer.

During operation, it will be necessary to clean and lubricate the part again, so you will need a can of grease, a few soft rags and gloves.

  • check the bike fork for integrity every 500. 1000 km;
  • clean the feet on the oil seals every 150. 200 km of the track;
  • apply a little grease to the stuffing box of the legs several times a season;
  • specially for hydraulic shock absorbers. change the oil every 5000 km.

How to replace a fork on a bicycle?

It is not recommended for an untrained and inexperienced user to carry out: if it is possible to cope with simple care, then it is better to leave such a procedure to a qualified specialist. As a last resort, carry out the replacement under the supervision of the master, following his recommendations.

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Fork routine inspection

Quite often, it is during a preventive examination that defects are revealed that are insignificant at first glance, but can lead to serious malfunctions in the future. During an external examination, it is necessary to pay attention to the following points:

  • the presence of any damage on the legs of the plug (scratches, dents);
  • the condition of the dropouts, mounting bolts under the adjusting handles and fork legs;
  • pressure level in the air chambers;
  • absence of mechanical damage to oil seals and anthers;
  • the condition and presence of leg play in the pants of the fork.

Maintenance, its and frequency

A routine inspection helps prevent serious problems from occurring, but it is not enough to keep your bike performing well. It also requires constant care, which consists in:

  • cleaning and lubricating the feet in the oil seals (every 100–150 km);
  • disassembly and full lubrication of oil seals (after passing 500-1000 km);
  • oil change in oil forks (at least once a year).

It is recommended to lubricate the bicycle fork at least once a season, but if the vehicle is used intensively, this should be done more often.

  • Pour oil under the boot. use a syringe for this procedure.
  • Design a fork to spread the oil evenly.
  • Wipe off excess grease.
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In addition to lubrication, maintenance also includes maintaining cleanliness. To prevent dust from entering the oil after the next trip, the legs of the fork in the area of ​​the anthers should be thoroughly wiped with a soft cloth.

We collect the sleeve

Apply grease liberally to the cleaned bushing cup. This will prevent the bearings from running in different directions during installation. Reinstall the bearings.

Return one of the cones to the bushing and apply grease to it. If you had anthers between the cone and bushing, put them back in place. Insert the taper axle into the hub.

Turn the wheel over, holding the cone axle so that in case of something, the bearings do not go free floating around your room.

Repeat from Step 4 (do not forget about the boot between the cone and the bushing) and screw the cone onto the hub axle.

Tighten the cones so that there is no play, and then secure the result with locknuts. Recheck that there is no play and that the axle rotates freely in the hub. Important! The distance from the locknut to the end of the hub axle must be the same on both sides.

That’s all, the hub is assembled and ready to continue to delight you with its quiet operation and excellent roll-off. Of course, tightening the locknuts requires a little skill, but everyone can get used to it. It wasn’t hard, really?

Removing the front wheel from the fork

Removing a wheel is the simplest maintenance procedure for your bike. This is done very simply:

  • Turn the bike upside down.
  • Release the rim brake, remove the caliper from the disc.
  • Loosen the fasteners from the fork dropouts.
  • Remove the wheel axle from the mountings.

On dropouts, the mount is nut and eccentric. In the first case, you will need two 15 mm wrenches. with one we hold the nut, with the other we carefully twist it on the opposite side. With the eccentric, everything is easier. loosen the retaining nut and fold the clamping lever.

  • replacement of tubes / tires;
  • tightening / loosening of the spokes;
  • bulkhead bushing;
  • rim painting.

Installing the front wheel on the fork is done in reverse order.

What is the front wheel hub?

There are many hubs throughout the entire bike design, but today it’s worth talking about this front wheel mounted part.

The front wheel hub, in contrast to the rear, is of a simpler design, since it is not subjected to heavy loads.

Depending on the type of bike, parts are installed on it, which differ from each other:

On sale most often you can find solid aluminum bushings, but there are also chiseled and stamped variations. The latter are extremely difficult to meet, due to their rather high cost.

Although they have several advantages over solid parts:

  • long service life and, as a result, reliability;
  • low specific gravity.

Front wheel hubs may vary depending on:

  • From production material.
  • From destination.
  • From structure. hollow or solid.

How to repair the front wheel hub of a bicycle with your own hands

Before taking on the repair of the hub on a bicycle wheel, you need to determine exactly where this part is located, without which the rotation of the front wheel is impossible. The front hub of the bike is located in the center of the wheel and is connected to the rim using spokes, this part determines how easy your favorite vehicle will be to move.

Disassemble the front wheel of the bike

Disassembly and repair

Step-by-step guide to disassemble and repair the front wheel hub:

  • The vehicle must be installed in a position in which repairs to the structure will be carried out without additional difficulties.
  • If there are disc brakes in the design, it becomes necessary to remove them.
  • Using two keys, you need to unscrew the bushing, while preventing the loss of bearings, which can instantly jump out of the cage. Don’t rely on a separator as it also has a degree of wear resistance.
  • Inspection and assessment of the condition of the cup. We admit only an even and smooth trail of balls, but the presence of damage (chips and scratches) will indicate the subsequent possibility of a wedge on the front wheel.

The sleeve needs a large and thick layer of lubricant and, only after applying it, balls are distributed from above, in increments of no more than two millimeters.

The bushing must have the same number of balls on both sides!

For convenience, cage bearings can be used to help shorten repair times.

We disassemble the sleeve

If you are not sure that you can not lose all the bearing balls, you can carry out all the manipulations on a small bucket or basin. To begin with, we suggest spraying the hub assemblies with a degriser or WD-40 in order to soften the remnants of old grease and dirt.

Removing all nuts and washers securing the hub in the dropouts

Take open-end wrenches and holding the wrench on the cone (2) unscrew the locknut (5), then set the locknut aside.

If after this procedure the cone does not rotate freely, then while holding the key on the other lock nut, unscrew the cone (2). Be careful! At this point, bearings will begin to spill out of the sleeve. After making sure that you have not lost the bearings, you can unwind the second cone.

Be sure to check the bearings, cone and cups inside the bushing for wear or damage. If the bearings are worn out, they must be replaced. If there is no noticeable wear, then you can start cleaning the bushing parts.

Use degriser or WD-40 to remove residual dirt and old grease. Wipe all parts of the hub thoroughly with a piece of cloth.