How to disassemble front shock absorbers on a bicycle

How to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle

The most popular and cheapest shock absorber is spring-elastomeric. This shock absorber is very simple in design: a polymer rod is inserted inside the steel spring, which dampens vibrations.

The second type is oil-spring, more modern and reliable. Due to its relative cheapness and simplicity of construction, it has become one of the most common in cycling.

And the third type is oil-air. It uses a compressed air cylinder instead of a spring. Due to the complexity of the design, it is better to repair them in specialized workshops, where they know exactly how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle.

Lubrication of shock absorbers

A poorly lubricated and misaligned mechanism can not only make an unpleasant sound, but also make it difficult to control the bike, spoiling all the enjoyment of sports. The ideal option is to externally clean the fork after each ride, and at least once a season to lubricate the internal parts of the mechanism. The easiest way is to take the bike to a workshop, whose master knows exactly what to do, but experienced cyclists can try it themselves.

Springs and Elastomer Springs can be lubricated without disassembling the fork. For this, the grease is drawn into a syringe and poured under the boot. After that, the bike should be “rocked” and the excess oil removed with a napkin. But! This is a quick, hiking option used when the bike cannot be disassembled even partially. According to the rules, you should first unscrew the mounting bolts from the bottom, then unscrew the Preload bolt, get the elastomer and the spring, unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the “pants”, that is, the part of the bicycle fork to which the wheel is attached. This is where the most dirt is found and it is this part that most often needs repairs. Anthers are taken from the last part (they can be easily picked up with a screwdriver).

Maintenance of the oil spring design is also simple. If the open oil bath method is used, then the oil is simply drained and the parts cleaned. This system is perhaps the easiest to maintain, and inspection and minor repairs can be performed even at home. Things are a little more complicated with a closed oil bath. The oil in this design is in the capsule and changes with the entire capsule. In contrast to the first option, a closed oil bath often requires more maintenance.

The most whimsical service is considered to be an oil-air shock absorber. To clean and lubricate it, you must:

  • Unscrew and clean the shock absorber. This will prevent debris from entering the air chamber;
  • Open valves and relieve pressure. If done correctly, the mechanism will be easy to compress and unclench;
  • Further, the mounting parts are removed from the shock absorber, and the air chamber itself is disassembled;
  • Then the oil seal should be removed. If any parts are damaged, it’s time to replace them or perform other repairs. If everything is intact, then old grease and mechanical impurities are removed, and you can start assembling the bicycle fork;
  • Fork oil is poured onto the shock absorber body, placed vertically. Gaskets and seals are installed in place. The air chamber is pushed all the way so that no air escapes from it. It is better to add a little more oil, and only then screw it back to the shock absorber body;
  • Next, the shock absorber is inflated to the desired pressure and installed in place.

How to Repair MTB Front suspension /shocker

Motorists have a saying: “The car loves affection, cleanliness and lubrication.” The same can be said for a bicycle, although it requires much less maintenance. If you know how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle, then this procedure will not seem long or laborious at all, and the iron horse runs without repair for more than one season.

Procedure for disassembling the plug:

Rear shock absorber creaks on a bike: what to do?

This intricate detail includes a ton of different elements. The first thing to do when extraneous noise appears is to disassemble the unit and check for grease. If it dries, apply a new layer. Before doing this, be sure to rinse and dry all parts. The rear shock for the bike is then reassembled in reverse order. This procedure improves the smoothness of the interaction of the elements, extending their service life. All-purpose Teflon grease is suitable for all types of bikes. In addition, if squeaks appear, inspect the plug, as often the malfunction is associated with it.

The majority of the shock absorbers have settings that can be adjusted correctly to better control steering and speed while driving. In addition, wear on the assembly is reduced. Consider the sequence and features of this operation.

Compression and damping

The rear shock absorber for a bicycle, depending on the modification, is equipped with a CTD switch or suspension (damping) settings. In the first case, it is enough to adjust the element according to the surrounding landscape.

If there are settings, proceed as follows:

  • Pay attention to the number of adjustment range modes. To do this, scroll the disc back and forth, counting the clicks produced.
  • If you do not want to experiment with finding the optimal value, set the disk to medium.
  • Extreme settings are very rarely suitable for athletes.
  • When driving, memorize the route and the necessary setting values ​​in order to determine the process of the suspension functioning.

Popular brands:

They are simple to construct and not expensive. As for reliability, it depends on the way of operation. If serviced and monitored on time, it can serve for a long time and without problems. But as a rule, on inexpensive ones, backlash of the front fork legs, rusting of the legs and other problems are inevitable soon.

Further instructions, suitable for almost any spring-elastic fork, as their design is identical.

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Rear shock: care features

When 9 out of 10 people say a shock absorber for a bicycle, they imagine a bicycle fork. They’re partly right, but a fork is a front shock, while a bike might also have a rear shock. A bike equipped with front and rear shock absorbers is called two-suspension.

The rear shock absorber, regardless of design, needs regular cleaning and lubrication: the frequency is selected individually, but the procedure is carried out at least once a season. Dense greases with a wide temperature range are used as an ideal lubricant for suspension joints.

If unforeseen difficulties arise with the shock absorber, for example, a creak or other extraneous sounds, then it will be quite difficult to find the cause on your own. As a trial option, it is advised to lubricate it with silicone aerosol, but if the creak persists, then the reason is most likely deeper, and the bike needs to be examined by a master.

How to lubricate front shock absorbers on a bicycle

Chain tensioning mechanism

Rear derailleur rollers. They are often “clogged” by grease and dirt deposits that have thickened around the perimeter. They must be removed carefully, for example with a flat-blade screwdriver.

It is necessary to apply a dotted liquid lubricant on the roller axles to avoid squeaking and tight rotation. Only lubricated, they are able to keep the chain taut.

As you may have noticed, removing, disassembling and lubricating a mountain or city bike suspension fork at home is not that difficult. The main thing is to treat this process responsibly and do everything consistently. The better you take care of your iron horse, the longer it will delight you with its trouble-free work.

Wire ropes

The bike has several cables that transmit the force from the shifters and brake levers to the front and rear derailleurs, as well as to the disc brakes or V. brake. If dirt has accumulated between the jacket and the cable, or the surfaces are dry, then the control may “stick”. This leads to untimely gear changes and even to the impossibility of emergency braking.

To lubricate the cable entry and exit points from the jacket, apply a couple of drops of lubricant, and then “work” with the shifter lever or the brake handle. This allows you to lubricate evenly and to a considerable depth.

Why remove and disassemble the bike fork

A bicycle fork, like all other components, can be replaced, repaired or serviced. Therefore, before proceeding with these procedures, we need to remove it from the bike, and in some cases disassemble the shock absorber for parts. In what cases will we have to remove it? First of all, this is when it is replaced by another. Secondly, it may be necessary to replace bearings and / or support cups, apply new lubricant, and also, there are times when it is necessary to align the steering tube or perform other repair work.

Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.

How to assemble and put the plug back

The process of assembling and installing a bicycle suspension fork is carried out in the reverse order. The only thing that you should carefully and carefully perform this operation in order to avoid incorrect installation of components. After you have installed the assembled fork back on the bike, secured the stem, be sure to check that there is no play in the steering tube in the frame glass. If they are observed, then be sure to eliminate them before the trip.

disassemble, front, shock, absorbers

After you set everything up and start riding, the first time there will be an abundant release of grease through the cuffs of the bike fork pants. Don’t worry, this is normal. Over time, excess oil will be squeezed out, and this process will stop. During this period, do not be lazy, and do not forget to wash off excess lubricant after each trip.

Main run carriage

We can say that this is the “main” axis of the bicycle. It is from it that the impulse is “distributed” to other elements. Therefore, the state of the carriage depends on the speed, and ease, and comfort of the course. The carriage elements are:

A different, “thick” grease is put into the carriage, not the kind that drips onto the chain or cables.

How to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle

The most popular and cheapest shock absorber is spring-elastomeric. This shock absorber is very simple in design: a polymer rod is inserted inside the steel spring, which dampens vibrations.

The second type is oil-spring, more modern and reliable. Due to its relative cheapness and simplicity of construction, it has become one of the most common in cycling.

And the third type is oil-air. It uses a compressed air cylinder instead of a spring. Due to the complexity of the design, it is better to repair them in specialized workshops, where they know exactly how to lubricate shock absorbers on a bicycle.

Wheel axle bearings

If the grease has dried, then there is resistance to the wheel movement, increased noise level, and when the bearing is destroyed, a “backlash” occurs in the wheel, and even wheel jamming may occur.
The bearing lubrication scheme is identical to that of the carriage bearings.

Oil seals

Oil seals are parts that prevent water and dirt from getting inside the amovilka, thereby keeping the lubricant in good condition. When the seals are damaged, then dirt and sand gets under them, which scratches the legs of the fork.

The device and types of front forks of mountain bikes

  • Types
  • External device
  • Internal organization

Any damped mountain bike fork allows you to ride more comfortably than a rigid road or city bike fork.

Over time, each cyclist begins to become interested in the device of his transport and in the future he can maintain or repair any unit himself. Of course, the structure of a front fork with shock absorbers is more complex than a conventional rigid one with two levers connected together. The most important thing when repairing a bicycle fork is knowing the function of the individual parts. And also it will not be superfluous to remember their name when buying new parts.

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From a wide variety of bike forks on sale, they can be sorted by shock absorption and design features.

According to the shock absorption device, bicycle forks differ in:

  • tough;
  • spring;
  • spring-elastomeric;
  • spring oil;
  • air;
  • air-oil.

Rigid forks allow you to develop high speed on asphalt, without wasting energy on the movement of shock absorbers.

Spring-loaded, spring-elastomeric, air forks perfectly soften the ramps from the curb, but they take away the impacts worse when hitting small stones.

Oil-springs and oil-springs absorb even small shocks from collisions with cracks in the asphalt.

Air and air-oil have a wide setting for cyclists with a weight different from the usual 70-100 kg. To adjust the stiffness of such forks, you need to have a high pressure pump, and you will need to take it on a long trip.

By design features, mountain bike forks differ in:

  • single-crowned (conventional);
  • double-crown;
  • inverted type;
  • one-legged.

Unicorns are used on many bicycles intended for cycling, dirt rides (dirt), cross-country marathons (Trail), endurance races (enduro).

Two-corners are needed for downhill runs off prepared tracks (freeride), descents from the mountains (downhill).

Inverted type shock absorbers are used for jumping from a height (hardcore freeride).

One-legged forks hold the axle on one side only with a cantilever, so you don’t need to remove the front wheel to repair a punctured tube.

One-legged fork

It is most convenient to familiarize yourself with the external elements of the bicycle fork in a visual picture.

The stem is the axis of the fork that is rigidly connected to the crown. This part is necessary for installing the fork on the bike frame (in the steering column), as well as for fixing the stem along with the handlebar in it. The stem can be made of steel, aluminum or carbon.

The crown is the element in which the rod and legs of the fork are fixed. On single-crown forks, the stem and legs are inseparably connected to the crown. In double-crown forks, the stem is rigidly connected only to the lower crown, the upper crown is movably put on the stem, while the legs can be adjusted in length. Crowns are made of die-cast aluminum, with possible subsequent forging (for middle and upper class forks) or carbon (for all-carbon forks).

Leg. a part that can move into the pants at the amovilka or directly hold the front wheel at the rigid fork. At the feet of the shock-absorbed forks (inside the tubes) there are springs and dampers, a stiffness regulator, and a shock absorber. Rigid forks have legs called feathers.

The forks are made of solid carbon steel and have a chrome finish. Surface finish and chrome thickness are higher on more expensive forks.

Pants are a one-piece piece consisting of two glasses and a rigid bracket (gorilla) that connects them together. This part is only available on a shock absorber forks. Inverted forks are a part that unites the glasses and the crown together.

The pants for most mid to high end forks are made from an aluminum magnesium alloy. The higher the percentage of magnesium in the alloy with aluminum, the stronger the cast part. The more expensive models have more magnesium in the aluminum parts and are correspondingly more reliable. The pants on some of the high-end forks are manufactured with a multi-layer construction of aluminum alloy and carbon.

Disc brake mount. two hollow, internally threaded struts to permanently mount the calliper (bicycle caliper).

Break bosses. two axles with an internal thread, on which levers of cantilever brakes or V-brakes (Wi-breaks) are movably put on.

Dropouts. axle attachments in the form of lugs on the lower ends of the pants. As the name suggests, they allow you to quickly remove the wheel by loosening only the nuts or eccentrics on the axle. Different dropout standards apply: QR9 introduced for conventional thin axles with a diameter of 9 mm, QR15. closed lugs for an insertable hollow axis with a diameter of 15 mm, QR20. closed lugs for an insertable hollow axis with an increased diameter of 20 mm.

Dropouts on most forks are molded with the pants. And if the pants are made of carbon, then these fasteners are separate parts of aluminum alloy. On some high-end models, the dropouts are made of stainless steel to prevent further rusting. Aluminum alloy cast dropouts rust due to magnesium corrosion when paint is damaged.

On expensive forks, rubber bellows in the shape of an accordion are not installed. On the middle and upper class models, neoprene anthers are installed one-piece with oil seals.

Damper

In an amovilka, it is necessary to slow down the rebound of the spring after it has been compressed. When the fork bounces upwards, the grip of the front wheel is disrupted. In addition, constant tremors become the cause of severe fatigue in the cyclist and even pain in the arms. Damper reduces harmful shocks when the shock absorbed fork is suddenly returned to its original state.

There is no damper in spring and air forks. In them, the energy of the compressed spring only insignificantly reduces the friction between the legs of the fork and the oil seals or guides.

Elastomeric spring forks use an elastomeric damper. This damper is a piece of soft plastic that fits inside the spring. When the spring is compressed, the soft plastic compresses with it, increasing in diameter. When rebounding, the spring cannot open quickly due to the damper holding it.

To prevent the hard metal spring from destroying the soft plastic inserted into it, it must be covered with thick grease. Lubrication from the elastomer damper is constantly erased by the spring during operation.

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In oil-spring and oil-air springs, the damper is oil. When the fork moves downward, oil quickly flows through the open internal valve. When returned to the top, this valve closes and oil slowly seeps out through the small holes. In this case, the energy of the compressed spring is converted into thermal energy, which is dissipated by the oil.

Oil dampers are classified into three types:

  • Open bath. Oil is in both cylinders of the fork pants, and valves are installed on both sides.
  • Half bath. The oil necessary for the operation of only one valve is in one of the legs of the fork and should not leak into its pants.
  • Closed. The oil damper is made in the form of a sealed non-separable cartridge. In this product, in addition to the damper, a shock absorption blocking mechanism is also assembled.

Models with shock absorbers are significantly heavier than conventional rigid models as they are built from a large number of parts. For moving parts to work, you need to lubricate them. The more kilometers you wind on the bike per season, the more often you need to lubricate the fork, but at least once a year.

Guides

Springs

In a mountain bike fork, they are needed to convert the impact energy of the front wheel against an obstacle into elastic deformation of the metal.

Metal coil springs are installed in spring, spring-elastomer, spring-oil forks. This bike part is made of steel or titanium.

Compressed air acts as a spring in air and air / oil forks. To prevent compressed air from being vented from a closed chamber, additional seals are used in the glands. The necessary seals increase the friction during the stroke, which is why the air forks have a low sensitivity when damping small shocks. In expensive models of this type, the sensitivity problem is solved by installing an additional air chamber.

The seals of the air plugs harden in the cold and begin to gradually bleed the air.

Bicycle lubrication | How and what should be lubricated in a bicycle

A bicycle, like any vehicle, requires care and repair, care and love. Bicycles consist of many moving parts that are constantly in operation, and as you know, friction of two or more different elements, without lubrication, against each other can lead to breakdown of mechanisms. Therefore, you should constantly check and lubricate the undercarriage of the bike.

The chain is one of the most moving parts, it is constantly in operation, it is generally recommended to lubricate the chain after each trip, but few people do this. If you pedal and hear ringing, this is a signal that the chain needs to be lubricated. Do not under any circumstances lubricate the chain with thick grease, thick grease attracts dirt, dust, which entails a deterioration in the bike’s running characteristics. For lubrication, it is best to use a special chain lubricant, or silicone lubricant in aerosol cans, it is easy to apply and dust attracts less. Do not forget that it is better to change the chain every 1200. 1500 km.

Before lubricating the chain, it is better to clean it.

The brakes are constantly in operation and provide a stop, therefore the braking system must be constantly monitored. To lubricate the axles, slightly unscrew the clamping screws and lubricate them with aerosol grease. Forget-me-not tighten the screws. Apply the brake several times. Be careful when lubricating so that it does not get on the rim and brake pads.

The rollers are close to the ground and are constantly in contact with water, mud, etc. You can lubricate the rollers with a spray lubricant.

in order to lubricate the rear derailleur, place the bike on a rack and shift gears up and down, lubricate all moving parts of the rear derailleur.

Shift and brake cables.

It is very important to lubricate the cables as they provide precise shifting and effective braking. If not lubricated, they can become jammed in the cable jacket. To lubricate the cable, simply drop oil or aerosol grease at the cable inlet and outlet into the cable jacket and press on the brakes and switches.

If you have a regular bushing, and not a cartridge, then you should lubricate the bearings so that they do not burn out and do not jam. To lubricate the carriage, remove the connecting rods and unscrew the carriage nut. Take out the bearings, clean them and the cups, then put in grease and put everything back.

They should also be lubricated with grease, for this you will have to remove the wheel and unscrew the bushings, remove all the bearings (if you have loose ones), clean them and the cups, put the grease on the cups and the bearings on it.

If you have a conventional elastomer spring fork, just carefully pour oil under the boot with a syringe and work it out, remove the remaining oil with a rag.

how to repair/open cycle suspension

If you have a double suspension, lubricate all bushings, bearings, hinges with oil.

Timely inspection and lubrication will prolong your friend’s life and ensure a safe and comfortable ride.

How to lubricate the front shock absorber on a bike