How To Disassemble A Speed Bike Rear Wheel Sprocket

Replacing a bicycle camera

To remove the tire and remove the damaged chamber, it is necessary to remove the remaining air: the cap is unscrewed and the wheel is lowered by continuous pressing on the nipple. If there is no air in the tire, which is more often the case with punctures, just unscrew the cap.

To remove the tires, you will need special mounting paddles. Of course, you can pry the camera with a regular screwdriver and even a knife, but it is better to have a professional tool. With the help of assemblies, the tire is pushed on from the side opposite to the nipple. As soon as it begins to tighten, you need to pry the sides a little further, until a sufficient free part of the tire is formed, and it can be safely pulled off the rim.

You need to tighten it very carefully so as not to damage the rim, not to use too much force. When the tire is removed, removing the damaged camera and installing a new one. The nipple is threaded into the hole in the rim, then the chamber is evenly distributed around the circumference.

Attention! The camera must lie flat, without kinks, otherwise you will have to reinstall it. There must be a Flipper at the bottom of the rim to protect it from the spokes. If it breaks, you need to install a new one or get by with two layers of thin electrical tape.

On top of the rim, the outer part of the tire is put on, this time, from the side of the nipple. When installing a tire, you must take into account the correct direction of the tread pattern. Usually, arrows are drawn on the tires, and in the upside down state of the bicycle, the forward direction is backward in the lower position. The rear wheel of a speed mountain bike is easy to go wrong, though, thanks to the cassette on the side. After mounting, the camera is inflated.

How to change the rear or front hub on a speed bike

If we are talking about tapered sleeve mechanisms, then only products with worn cups need to be replaced. In this case, an analogue is selected that is suitable for the distance between the dropouts and the number of holes for the knitting needles. It is better to entrust the work of repositioning the wheel to an experienced master, as well as the selection of new spokes.

How to sort out a hub with a foot brake

2. Disassembling the sleeve

3. Cleaning, lubrication

4. Assembly of the sleeve

Bicycles with one gear and foot brake are still popular today, because many people simply do not need a bicycle with gears for their purposes. Also, single speed hubs are available on all children’s bicycles up to 20 inches. They are reliable, simple in design, but the problem is that if poor-quality lubricant is used in the bushings, it will strongly resist rotation and it will be frankly difficult to ride a bicycle. And if an adult can resist this resistance, then the child after a short period of time simply will not want to get on the bike anymore. Therefore, take care of replacing the grease in the rear hub.

We’ll be looking at the rear wheel baffle for an adult bike, but keep in mind that the construction is exactly the same on kids’ bikes. For the purity of the experiment, we took a new wheel, loosened the cones so that it spins easily, but also does NOT play. This is how it spins

1. Tools

How To Disassemble A Speed Bike Rear Wheel Sprocket

1. Wrench 17 mm.

2. 15 mm cone wrench.

3. Flat screwdriver.

4. Bearing grease. We will use Mobil XHP 222 multifunctional grease. You can get by with cheaper greases such as lithol.

!Important. The lubricant must be plastic (not liquid).

2. Disassembling the sleeve

We start work on the right side (where the asterisk is).

Remove the retaining ring holding the star with a screwdriver

Remove the star and the metal boot, then grab the 15 mm cone with a cone wrench and loosen the lock nut with a 17 mm wrench

We unscrew the locknut and the cone

We unscrew and take out the right side of the coupling together with the bearing

We take out the left part of the clutch together with the brake lever

As you can see, this is NOT the worst lubrication option. Despite its overly viscous consistency, judging by the flash photo, the grease is similar to graphite. But this happens on adult bicycles. Unfortunately, for children, either a drying paste or Moment glue is laid, which simply do not allow the wheel to spin normally. It’s good if the bushing manufacturer regrets the lubrication. then your child will be able to ride more or less normally. Otherwise, cycling will take place with a lot of suffering.

The disassembled left side looks like this

3. Cleaning, lubrication

First, remove as much of the grease as possible with rags or toilet paper. Take a cleaner (we used a pressure cylinder carburetor cleaner) or thinner and clean as much of the bushing fillings as possible. By the way, the beloved WD-40 is also suitable.

Wipe the parts clean. If you don’t have a cleaner, you can simply wipe it down more thoroughly with rags.

Apply grease to the inside of the bushing housing, including on the surface with which the bearing interacts

The main task is to assemble the left side of the clutch and completely install it into the bushing together with the pads.

In the part of the coupling Install the washer, behind it the spring so that the antennae are oriented outward

Lubricate the cone next to the brake lever, Install the bearing on it

!The bearing should rest against the bushing cup with balls, and on the other side, supported by a cone.

4. Assembly of the sleeve

The tendril gets into special holes made in the cone. For clarity, photos without lubrication

Lubricate part of the coupling, put pads on it. Protrusions on the pads Must lie on the cone between protruding

In this form, Install the resulting structure into the sleeve body

We install a bearing of a larger diameter into the bushing housing with balls inward, and a bearing of a smaller diameter into the right side of the coupling, after having lubricated all surfaces

We twist the coupling, fasten the cone and the locknut, then grab the cone and tighten the locknut. It is important to choose a moment when the wheel turns easily, but does not have any backlash.

We install the boot, asterisks, and then put the retaining ring in the groove specially designed for it

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On the visual result of changing the lubricant (compare with the roller at the beginning of the article)

Bulkhead Sentry Single Speed ​​Hub with Coaster Brake will perfectly complement our article

How to disassemble

Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:

  • Disc brake rotor. Dismantling is NOT in all cases. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the latter. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front sleeve you cannot do without removing the rotor.
  • Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to shoot, otherwise it is NOT possible to reach the second cone, and indeed DO NOT remove it. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.

When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. It is important to follow two rules:

  • Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
  • You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is a disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the flare nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or hitting an obstacle, which is why the free movement of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, in such a scheme, the balance is maintained and you can choose a gap without damage to the roll.

The deconstruction procedure is shown on the photographic material. A cone-nut is adhered to with a thin cone wrench, and the lock nut is unscrewed with the second key (for convenience, it is desirable to take a more massive tool). After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, but removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.

Attention! When disassembling, remember the order of the components. The ideal option is to take a photo of the placement of anthers, nuts and washers on fresh tracks, as shown in the image.

When removing balls from their seats, it is important to Separate them into two groups. That which is the case must be put in one place, that which is on the left. in another. DO NOT mix and shackle these groups with each other, otherwise after assembling a perfect roll without backlash you will NOT get.

Important! We take out here on the front wheel of a bicycle without disc brakes, Mark the side of the unrolled cone on the tires. Another landmark on this type of bike is the direction of rotation of the rubber shown on the side.

Bicycle Rear Hub Maintenance

If you ignore the need for periodic maintenance of the rear hub of a bicycle, then the life of the “iron friend” can be greatly reduced. Experienced cyclists know what signs will indicate to disassemble / lubricate / reassemble the rear hub immediately. This process is NOT difficult, but you need to do everything in a certain sequence.

When to Service the Rear Hub

To ensure that bike parts are always in perfect technical condition, they must be regularly serviced. If we consider the rear hub of a bicycle, then for it you will need:

  • Tighten the body periodically;
  • Change bearing balls regularly;
  • When disassembling again, lubricate all internal parts of the body;
  • Adjust the brake hub from time to time.

Dismantling the rear wheel itself is as easy as shelling pears, but the process of removing and disassembling / assembling the rear bicycle hub is much more difficult. And nevertheless, without such regular maintenance, the part in question may soon need its overhaul or replacement.

Signs that indicate an urgent need to service the rear hub of the bicycle:

  • When driving, there is a strong wheel play;
  • The crunch of bearings is clearly audible (this means that they are simply worn out)
  • On the move, the bicycle body rattles and staggers;
  • Rolling dynamics is bad.

It is worth knowing some of the features of eliminating a particular symptom:

  • If the rear hub casing is spinning, loosening, then this can be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.
  • If the movement of the rear wheel is difficult, then it may be necessary to loosen the fastening nut a little. most likely, too much force was applied when tightening it.
  • If extraneous sounds appear when the bike is moving and the roll-forward deteriorates, it will be necessary to replace the bearings or completely lubricate the rear hub housing.

Assembling and installing the rear wheel on the bike

Quality wheel repair is not only about disassembling, replacing, lubricating or adjusting. At the last stage, all this chaos must be collected in reverse order. All parts of the bushing mechanism are placed in the drum and the counter nuts are carefully secured. The drum is pushed onto the spokes, after which they must be tightened by the number of revolutions by which they were loosened.

Tightening the spoke nuts is done in the opposite direction to loosening. Here you need to remember the direction of loosening in order to tighten correctly. If the drum dangles, then you need to spin the spokes harder.

The cassette is put on the sleeve in the following order:

  • Major stars;
  • Single stars, small stars;
  • Tightening cassette mechanism whip.

All that remains is to put the rear wheel on the frame. A chain is put on one of the stars, and the wheel is inserted into the grooves of the frame. To top it off, all that remains is to tighten the nuts or eccentrics on both sides. After assembly, you need to twist the pedals and see if the chain runs normally in the stars. Turning over the bike and begin to ride calmly!

Anyone who actively rides a bicycle will have to deal with wheel problems one way or another. Despite the ease of maintenance, the wheel can be time-consuming at first. However, if you remember how important wheels are for a bicycle, it turns out to be not so much. What’s more, with experience, a wheel bulkhead will take minutes.

Taper bushings

The most common type. Particularly in the Shimano range, you will NOT encounter a knot on a “slip”. The company explains this by the fact that rolling is better in a design based on cone-nuts. Configuration elements of such a product are shown in the figure:

How to iterate over the rear and front hub on a speed bike

Bulkhead bushing, whether rear or front, is an event that can be either Forced, due to water entering the bushing, and Regular. Its purpose is for the most part preventive. to change the lubricant and, if necessary, replace some components. If we are talking about a conical bicycle classic, then it can be a worn ball or a cone. However, on high-speed bicycles, there is another type of support, which also needs maintenance.

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Assembling a bicycle wheel

The bike is versatile, very pleasant to use, capable of not only improving your mood from walking, but also has a beneficial effect on the body. But he also requires some attention. And in order for it to serve longer, it is important to learn some actions on your own, so that you can solve some problems yourself.

When a person faces the problem of re-spacing, or replacing the camera, then the skill of self-parsing and removing the wheel will come in handy. You can, of course, turn to specialists who will be able to repair a bicycle wheel, but, firstly, it takes too long, and secondly, you will have to pay money for it. But all the work on replacing parts, disassembling and assembling them can be done independently. It will not only be more profitable, but also in quality, most often, practically does not differ.

Perepitsovka

Wheels play a huge role, so you should pay enough attention to them. Experts believe that a cheap bike, if you replace its wheels with better ones, will be much better than expensive and well-known brands.

In any case, repositioning is a very useful skill, since in many repair services all the necessary actions are not performed. In this case, the quality of service decreases significantly.

Some special tools can be used at this stage:

  • Spoke key;
  • Zontometer;
  • Wheel straightening machine;
  • Needle tension gauge.

Of course, it is not easy to find them for everyone, but perhaps someone will still have one or another detail. You can safely do without them, although they can significantly speed up all the work.

So, the following important stages can be distinguished:

  • It is recommended to pre-lubricate the thread of the spokes together with the rim, as this will help to tighten them more tightly;
  • On the rear wheel, work begins only on the threaded side of the hub. I inserted nine spokes into the flange, it is necessary to find the hole that will be closest to the valve, insert the spokes into it. It will be key;
  • Four holes are counted from it clockwise, then the spoke is inserted, the nipple is twisted. Other knitting needles (7 pieces) are attached in the same way;
  • We turn the wheel with the left side, after which nine spokes should be connected to the rim in the left outer flanges;
  • The intersection between the key and the tenth does not have to be;
  • The spoke heads are on the outside, especially if they are on the rear wheel;
  • Spokes, which are considered tensioning, or rather, their heads will be located inside. One of them should be threaded through the flange hole. The bush is twisted, while the second spoke should be given a tangential direction to the flange. The first two knitting needles from above, the tensioner passes at the top, and under the third it should go inside;
  • When assembling, the nipples only need to be tightened slightly. Otherwise, the spokes will NOT be able to reach the holes;
  • It is better to make a uniform tension from the location of the key spoke. It is very important that the nipple is twisted only one turn. It is allowed to make one or two more if the spoke remains too weak. If, gradually, as the tightening progresses, it becomes clear that the nipples are NOT twisting anymore, then it will be necessary to return, re-unscrew them all and then tighten each one only half a turn. When the work is done, in addition it will be possible without any problems with any knitting accessories stronger.

It is important to carry out all the work. Make sure that the following points are observed:

  • The figured part of the sleeve must be returned to the working one;
  • The case from the person will be a spoke, which is near the valve hole;
  • The rim is connected to the right side of the flange with both spokes;
  • Three holes left unoccupied.

The wheel umbrella must always be in a plane that extends at least half the distance between the rear hub and the tips. If this is NOT complied with, the bike will constantly try to move to the side. If the umbrella is correct, then the distance from the brake pads to the rim will be equal when the wheel is straight and when it is returned.

Disassembly

Bicycle wheels should be disassembled at regular intervals over several months. It is important to do this for self-service, which will allow you to identify a possible breakdown in advance, replace parts in a timely manner and avoid unexpected failure of this vehicle. Most often, it is the bicycle hub that is the part, the performance of which must be regularly checked. There are two types of them, in accordance with which their analysis will differ:

Cassette remover (whip).

Disassembling the wheel, removed from the bike, begins with a procedure in which the spokes are somewhat weakened. This requires a nipple wrench. The tape of the same name is removed from the rim groove, then the nipples are unscrewed, and the spokes are removed completely. Wheel assembly should be carried out in stages:

  • The spokes (¼ part) are inserted so that their heads are outside the wheel. In this case, you should skip one hole at a time. It is important to remember that if the flange is countersunk on one side, then the spoke is installed in a plane along its surface.
  • The threaded spoke ring should be passed through the rim hole. All of them are slightly offset from the rim to the sides. The needles are inserted through every three holes. After assembly, you can make sure that the inner spokes are assembled with their heads outward. they are the ones that make up a kind of basis.
  • The location of some spokes on wheels is always slightly different. At the back, it should cross the three inner spokes. The first crossing occurs in the flange, and then twice more on the way to the rim. In the case of the front wheel, the outer spoke will be crossed by the two inner.

Wheel installation

Observing the order, if the removal will be reversed, the wheel can just as easily be assembled. And if everything is clear with the front, then, when installing the rear wheel, it is important to Make sure that the chain is fully and correctly put on the teeth of the sprocket.

If everything is done correctly, but the wheel does not fit into the bosom, then it is worth examining it and the bike. It is possible that the fork is bent, or there is a “figure eight” bending the metal disc. Then all problems must be eliminated and only after that proceeds to the installation.

Removing the wheel

Disc view of the brake device.

Rim brake system.

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“The front wheel is much easier and more convenient to remove than the rear wheel.” This is what many people say, who are not very familiar with the device of some bicycle models. So, in order to remove the wheels, you must first determine the type of braking device. The disc type of the brake device does not require any additional work, but if there is a rim system on the bike, then it should be Spreader. This is usually done by simply squeezing on both sides of the pads and pulling the arc out of them.

    Further actions can be divided into stages:

  • Installing the bike on the handlebar and saddle by simply flipping the structure upside down. Moreover, if the disc brakes are hydraulic, then the work should be done quickly, otherwise air will enter the hydraulic line and additional pumping will be required to get rid of it.
  • At this stage, it is important to understand how the wheel is fastened. There are two types in total: a lever and a nut. In the first case, it is also called eccentrics. It is easy to unscrew it without tools, just pull it down. With a wrench mounting method, you should pick up two wrenches and put them on the nuts on both sides of the wheel. One of them remains motionless, the second moves, unscrewing it.
  • Pull the wheel up.
  • The rear wheel is removed in the same way, despite the seeming complexity.

    Final tension

    At the last stage, you should deal with the shrinkage of the knitting needles. You can put pressure on them, take the wheel in your hands, in those places where they intersect. This should be done over the entire surface. After the entire procedure, you should additionally adjust and re-shrink. This sequence must be repeated until then, until the accompanying crackling stops.

    When balancing is complete, it is important to inspect the wheel. If the spokes protrude above the rim, they must be cut down. Further, excess grease is removed and the wheel is completely ready for installation.

    Stels Adrenalin

    We have analyzed some of the features of DIY Stealth bike repair. Now let’s look at a specific model of the “bike”, namely Stels Adrenalin.

    The bike frame is made of aluminum alloy. This model cannot be called light, because it is more intended for men than women. Depreciation leaves much to be desired, but if you use this “bike” only for short distances, for example, cycling around the city or to work and back, then it will be quite enough.

    Do-it-yourself Stealth bike repair is no different from repairing second models. All the same mechanisms and designs, which can be easily removed and replaced if necessary. Almost any oil can be used for lubrication, but it is best to buy special lubricants, which will provide more reliable protection against corrosion and other contamination.

    Do-it-yourself Stealth bike repair: subtleties and tips

    Modern bicycles (high-speed, two-suspension, mountain, hybrid, road, etc.) They are distinguished by a beautiful and graceful look. They consist of complex mechanisms (disc brakes, bottom bracket, shock absorber, cassette, etc.), which significantly increase ride comfort, but need constant maintenance. In order to repair any part, you need to know what it consists of and how it works.

    From this article you will learn about the complex repair of a Stealth bike with your own hands, after which you will be able to service it yourself. We will also discuss several complex mechanisms (bicycle cassette, carriage), how exactly they need to be repaired and what tools will be needed for this.

    Main constituent parts

    The rear wheel of a speed bike consists of the following parts:

    Bicycle cassette

    The cassette consists of several pairs of stars, which are attached to the hub, namely to one drum. Often, the cassette contains 7 gears, which are installed on the spider. But on some bikes, for example, a hybrid, there may be 8 to 11 stars, which significantly increases the acceleration of the bike.

    Do-it-yourself Stealth bicycle cassette repair consists in timely cleaning of each star from dust and plaque, as well as monthly lubrication of parts. You can clean the sprockets with a toothbrush, as it will help you get to hard-to-reach places. As for the lubricant, it is not worth using grease, petroleum jelly, or any other similar product. The most optimal substance for THESE purposes is ordinary engine oil (transmission or engine oil). If finances allow, you can purchase a special solvent for cleaning stars.

    Stealth bike rear wheel device

    We work with the inner space of the sleeve

    After they have removed it, you need to carefully examine it. As a rule, this part of a bicycle wears out very rarely, but in any case, you will need to thoroughly wipe it off from dirt and dust. This is done with a dry cloth, but in some cases (with heavy pollution) gasoline can be used. So, we wipe the left cone and examine the right one for fastening strength. Only after the walls of the wasp are completely dry (if gasoline was used for processing), you can apply new lubricant to it.

    Note: in no case should you use chain lubricant or some other lubricant for the rear hub of the bicycle. you will need to purchase a special tool. For bearings, buckets are often used. this lubricant will be the most suitable. It is not worth applying too thick a layer of grease. it, during the operation of the bike, will be squeezed out and actively absorb dirt, which leads to rapid wear of the part.

    Conclusion

    The bicycle is the most environmentally friendly form of transport. Many argue that a daily ride on it improves well-being, raises tone and helps to always stay in great physical shape.

    Do-it-yourself stealth bike repair is not as difficult as many people think. If you have at hand all the necessary tools, as well as the knowledge of how to maintain it, then this work will not seem burdensome to you. The most important thing is timely maintenance of the bike (lubrication of all available parts and mechanisms, adjusting the brakes and speed switches, aligning the rim, etc.), and then you will not have to repair it soon.

    Renovation work

    Before you start disassembling and assembling the rear wheel of a high-speed bike, you need to find a comfortable place, stock up on gloves so as not to get your hands dirty. If there is no relevant experience, you should strictly follow the sequence of actions, take into account all the subtleties. An excellent help in this matter are educational.

    Broken or bent axis

    Another frequently occurring problem is axle curvature or violation of its integrity, caused by poor-quality materials used in their manufacture, or by the design features of the bushing itself. Such breakdowns are mainly characteristic of ratchet bushings, since in them the support bearings are too far from the axle attachment point in the dropouts of the frame feathers. As a result, too large a lever appears, and when the load increases, it becomes unusable.