How to tighten or tighten a bicycle chain?
On bicycles that have a planetary hub or don’t have speed derailleurs, determining when the chain needs to be tightened is easy. To check, pull it down until it stops. If the distance she travels is more than 1-1.5 cm, then adjustment is required.
There are several methods to determine if you need to tighten the chain on a speed bike:
- The position of the speeds is set so that the chain is located on the largest stars in the front and rear. Then it is necessary to pull it down and towards the front wheel until the rear derailleur reaches the stop. If after this procedure there are no more than 2 free links, then there is no need to adjust the chain length.
- The chain is set to the largest star in the front and the smallest in the back. In this case, the guide roller and the roller of the rear crossover tensioner must be on the same axis perpendicular to the ground. The required length on 2 suspensions is determined in this way: you should press on the pendulum until the cassette of the sprockets in the front leaves the greatest distance from the ratchet. This is the best position to measure the required chain length.
Precise chain tension is essential for normal bike use. Excessive tension makes pedaling difficult. In addition, the chain drive components quickly deteriorate. If the element sags too much, then the risk of its jumping off during movement increases.
Cycling without gears
When tensioning the chain on a regular bicycle, keep in mind that tight tension is not allowed. The optimal size is no more than 5 mm.
First, you need to turn the bike over, first placing a soft material under the seat. This will avoid damage. Then loosen the 2 nuts securing the rear wheel. To set the desired level of slack, the wheel gently slides along the sloped grooves. After reaching the set level of adjustment, the wheel is fastened back with nuts. They need to be tightened firmly, but without much effort, so that they are not damaged.
The operation of the device must provide free pedal travel. At the end of the work, check how the bike is functioning, and also make sure that the wheel axle is parallel to the carriage.
On a vehicle with speeds
The tension of the chain drive on the vehicle at speeds is carried out by the spring force of the derailleur itself. But if its length is too long, then it will be impossible to remove the sagging with the help of the tensioner. In such a situation, when driving, the chain will hit the surface of the frame.
If the length is less than necessary, then there will be difficulties with gear shifting. In addition, transmission elements will wear out faster.
Another method places the chain on the largest star in the front and the smallest in the back. It is pulled up until the roller axes are on the same vertical. The chain length is adjusted on 2 suspensions. The rear swingarm is locked in such a way that the distance between the rear ratchet and the front chainring is maximum. After determining the desired length, the extra links are removed.
Removing extra links
Not every chain can be fitted to a bicycle straight away. This applies primarily to high-speed vehicle models. Often before installation, it has to be shortened by removing links.
A collapsible model is installed on a regular bicycle. One of its links is a special lock. High-speed models are equipped with non-separable parts. To disassemble them and remove some of the links, you need to grind the pin heads on one of the links using emery. To facilitate the task of separating the rivets, a special tool will help. a squeeze. It allows you not only to quickly remove excess links, disconnect, remove the chain, but also reassemble it. The tool has 2 slots. One allows you to squeeze the pin, and the second. to press it back.
During operation, the rotation force must be monitored. The move will be hard at first, then weaken a little. At the final stage, it will become heavy again. Then the chain must be disconnected and removed. The pin will remain on the plate from the outside.
It is necessary to measure out unnecessary links from the side where there is no pin. After that, remove them and connect the chain by pushing the pin back with a squeeze. Check the alignment carefully. The pin travel should be uniform on 2 sides, and the movement at the junction should be light and smooth.
How to disassemble a bicycle chain. Removing and putting on the chain on the bike
Quite often it becomes necessary to remove and then put the chain back on the bike, for example, when cleaning the chain, replacing or changing its length. To do this, you must first disconnect and then reconnect the bicycle chain. This process is very easy if the chain has a special connecting lock, but if the chain is without a lock, then a special tool is required to disconnect it. a chain squeeze. What other tools may be required for repair, we read in our article. tools for repairing a bicycle. Let’s take a closer look at the case with and without a lock.
Bicycle chain extractor
How to remove a chain with a lock
As already mentioned, this process is very simple and in most cases no special tools are required. Despite the wide variety of types of locks, they all disconnect in almost the same way. If you still cannot open the lock manually, you can use a special tool (see the figure below).
Variety of bike chain locks
Disconnecting the chain lock
How to remove a chain from a bike without a lock
If the chain does not have a lock, then a tool is needed to remove it. squeezing the chain. Without a squeeze, it is quite difficult to disconnect the chain and the chance of damage to the chain links is very high, and it is almost impossible to connect a chain opened in this way. If the chain has to be removed often enough, then it is better to have such a tool in your arsenal, squeezing the chain greatly simplifies working with the chain without a lock.
In order to disconnect the chain without a lock, it is necessary to press out one of the pins (link axis), just for this procedure we need a squeeze. Any link is suitable for this operation, but it should be borne in mind that the next time it is pressed out, it is worth choosing a different link, since each time the pin looses more and more. Ideally, a connection lock should be purchased and installed.
So, we proceed to the direct riveting of the chain. The chain link must be inserted into the squeeze (as shown in the figure below). It is worth considering that most puckers have two grooves for placing the chain, in this case you need to install the chain in the groove closer to the fixing screw. The second groove is only needed for adjustment.
One end of the pin must remain in the link
How to chain a bike without a lock
Before reconnecting the chain on mountain and sport bikes, it is necessary to correctly pull it through the rear derailleur rollers, see fig. below, marked with a red line:
Correct chain position
Next, go to the direct connection of the chain link. To do this, it is necessary to carry out the same operation, only in the reverse order. We place the chain in the groove near the fixing bolt so that the protruding pin looks at the squeeze nose. Twisting the knob, smoothly push the pin back until it fully enters the link. After this procedure, the links into which the pin was pressed should move freely, if this does not happen, then you need to use the adjusting groove for the chain squeeze. Having placed the desired link in the adjusting groove, it is necessary to ensure that the ends of the pin protrude from both ends equally.
The chain links must move freely!
If the chain is from Shimano with a disposable connecting pin, press it into the link using a squeeze and break off the rounded end. This tip is needed to simplify the process of pressing the pin.
Shimano chain link pin
Here, in principle, is all you need to know about how to put on and remove the chain on a bicycle, as well as disconnect and connect the chain without a lock. If you have experience in disconnecting circuits without squeezing, we ask you to share it with us and our readers in the comments below.
How to remove a chain from a bicycle
Depending on the style of riding, the question of removing the chain arises either almost immediately after the start of riding, for example, in a trial or downhill, or after many kilometers of walks, when maintenance and replacement of the chain is required.
Chain Removal Situations
Maintaining your bike is very important, and there may be several reasons for removing the chain:
- Deep cleaning. it is recommended to remove all elements from time to time and clean from grease and accumulated abrasive.
- Link damage and replacement.
- Replacing a worn chain.
- Length change with a new sprocket combination, e.g. on a mountain bike.
Home wear is primarily determined by elongation. An overstretched chain is cause for concern as misalignment of the links will severely damage the sprockets and can be hazardous to derailleurs.
It is quite difficult to notice wear by eye, and to determine it there is an indicator. the length of 24 links:
- if it is equal to 305 mm (304.8 value for a new set), everything is in order;
- 306.5-307.5 mm. it’s time to change;
- 307.5 mm. if the bike was still in use with such wear, then most likely the entire set of sprockets is damaged;
- 308 mm. the value of the damaged transmission.
Objectively, it is recommended to service the transmission every 500 kilometers, but this value is not fixed, since even 50 kilometers on rough terrain with an abundance of sand and dirt in wear can correspond to another thousand on clean city roads.
Some people choose to cut the chain, but the stretch is usually evenly distributed, and the links can still damage the stars that cannot be repaired.
In addition to conventional devices, there are models with a lock. a special link, which is slightly different in shape from the rest, and allows you to open the link using reverse tension without using a squeeze or other tools, the main thing is to put the lock link correctly. It is not recommended to open the links next to the lock, as this will reduce the reliability of the entire mechanism.
It is very important to remember how the chain is connected to the system, cassette and switches before starting the removal. without a little experience in installation and dismantling, it may be difficult to put it back on.
Standard withdrawal process
All guides describe the same removal procedure. This will require, first of all, a small set of tools. without them it will be quite difficult.
- key for removing the rear wheel;
- pliers for holding segments and pin;
- squeeze. a device for pressing out pins, without a lock. the most important tool in the process.
Let’s take a step by step how to remove the chain from the bike:
- We clean the links from dirt. it will interfere with each subsequent step.
- Removing the rear wheel is optional, but it’s much easier to work without it.
- Extrude the pin (the metal cylinder that closes each link) using a squeeze.
- Disconnect one link.
- Remove extreme links from switches.
The reverse sequence is the same. put the chain into place and assemble the structure back, riveting the pin with a squeeze, and rotating it in the opposite direction.
In the absence of squeeze, you can install everything back without it. Pliers and any sturdy cylinder, for example, a small hexagon, will help. Gently clamping the cylinder, the pin can be riveted similar to the work of the squeeze, it just requires a lot more attention and application of forces.
Models with a lock can be unhooked using a tight rope or cable. This allows for prompt repairs literally in the field, for example, when a chain suddenly breaks on a short hike.
Removing the chain from a bike is very easy if you have a simple tool or basic knowledge of the process. The most important thing is to act with care, as forceful action with extrusion can be dangerous.
Removing the chain from a bike
Two-wheeled vehicle repair skills will help riders deal with difficult issues quickly and efficiently. The most frequently asked question is how to remove the chain from the bicycle. At any time, unforeseen situations or the need for maintenance of equipment may arise and therefore several recommendations will help.
When is it necessary?
This procedure may be needed at the following points:
- Replacing an old part with a new one;
- Installation of new speed switches on the transport;
- To make the chain shorter;
- To clean the element.
Removing an element with a lock does not take much time and effort. Today there are several varieties of this bicycle chain device, but the principle of their opening is similar. It is necessary to close the axles and remove the cover. For convenience, you can use pliers, it is also good if you have a pliers for opening at hand. Thus, the whole procedure does not take much time and you can quickly remove the malfunction, change the part or remove the chain from the bike.
If there is no lock, then you need to make some effort. For work, you need a special squeeze. It is a tool with which it is very convenient and easy to extrude a pin. To work, you must position the chain link so that the release axle is directly opposite the pin. Then you need to twist the handle and squeeze out the pin itself. It is very important not to allow it to pop out, otherwise it will be very difficult to insert the pin into place correctly. Further, the bicycle chain can be replaced or repaired.
There are also some points to consider when working. For example, there was repeated removal of the same bicycle chain, then the next time it is necessary to open another link and segment, because after this process it loosens a little. Also, some models of pomace may have two seats and you need to fasten the link carefully, correctly and carefully.
Design and its features
A bicycle chain is a fairly simple metal structure that is designed to transfer the drivetrain from the drive sprocket to the driven one. Constituent elements:
- Outer plate;
- Inner plate;
- Pin (roller);
The main difference between the different types is the distance between the rollers and the width. In some modes of transport, this part may be part of the gearshift system. This detail is important and requires special attention.
A bicycle chain requires regular maintenance, cleaning and repair to function properly. Regular lubrication and flushing will ensure that the equipment works well, and every few thousand kilometers the chain must be replaced with a new one. There is also a certain indicator of the degree of elongation (0.5%), that is, pores when a new part is needed. Without special measuring tools, you can determine the degree of wear as follows: you need to install the element on the largest sprocket (leading) and pull it off, moving it away from the teeth. If more than 4 teeth fit into the resulting space, then the bicycle part must be urgently replaced.
How to properly shorten a bike chain with and without squeeze
Many people are fond of cycling at the amateur level. But a suddenly sagging chain can seriously ruin the pleasure of a walk. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly care for the vehicle, as well as find out in a timely manner how to shorten the chain on a bicycle and purchase all the necessary tools for this. The work can be done independently, following the recommendations of specialists.
Why disassemble the chain
Only a chain tensioned without slack or distortion ensures efficient transmission of torque from the pedals to the rear bicycle axle. The need to disassemble and shorten it may be due to the following reasons:
Take the survey
- Replacement due to severe wear or breakage. The new chain is the standard 114-116 links. On ordinary road bicycles, it is usually used entirely, on mountain bikes, it has to be shortened by 8-10 links. Only the required minimum is left on the trial bike.
- Constructive changes. After upgrading the bike, the chain often begins to dangle, spin, fall off the sprockets, despite the quality care.
- Sagging due to long-term operation, intensive load, changing the set of sprockets.
To determine the optimum length, you need to shift gears so that the chain rests on the largest sprocket at the front and rear. Then the links are opened, pulling it all the way. After making a mark, add 2-3 more links to prevent increased stress on the transmission.
Replacing the chain may be required due to severe wear or breakage Quite often, the chain starts to dangle or spin after upgrading the bike The chain slack is possible due to prolonged use or changing the set of sprockets
Experts in the field of various life hacks and those who started cycling back in Soviet times, in order to break the chain, recommend using a stone and a nail. But, since progress does not stand still, a special tool has long been created for this. a chaintool. It resembles a small vise without a bed.
Practice shows that pomace in “multitools” (especially in cheap ones) withstand a maximum of 3-5 applications. Therefore, for a multi-day hike in terrain with difficult terrain, it is better to have a high-quality tool made of high-strength steel in your backpack.
The mechanism of action of the pomace is extremely simple. The existing stop does not allow the plates of the links on the chain to deform and bend in the process of pushing out the connecting pin (pin). The swivel screw pushes it out without significant effort.
In addition to the main tool, in order to shorten the bicycle chain, you will need rags, kerosene and any lubricant (for example, WD-40). Before starting work, the gearshift mechanism must be thoroughly cleaned. “Non-professional” devices. a hammer, nuts, nails and so on are used only as a last resort.
Squeeze Kerosene WD-40
With a squeeze, the answer to the question of how to shorten a chain on a bicycle is obvious. If not, the process turns into a lottery. Perhaps the operation will be crowned with success. But it is also likely that the cyclist will be left without a vehicle.
To open the chain with the master link and shorten it, you need to proceed according to the following instructions:
- Place the bike on a rack. In its absence. on any hard flat surface with wheels up.
- Thoroughly clean the chain from dust, dirt, grease residues using rags and kerosene (or another suitable agent).
- Find the closing link (“lock”). Manufacturers usually make the task much easier by making it slightly darker or lighter than others. Another distinguishing feature is the presence of protruding rollers, fastened by an outer plate, and a large oval hole around 1–2 of them.
- Rotate the pedals by moving the master link between the gears. This greatly facilitates access to it.
- Open the master link on the bike chain. Structurally, this can be done in different ways, so you need to read the instructions in advance. Most often, the roller is removed by hinge rotation or the link is opened by bending. Less often it is disposable, then you need to remove the element, for example, with needle-nose pliers.
- Determine how many links need to be removed. It’s better to clean less than overdo it. Installing them back is problematic for beginners.
- Using a clamp or a squeeze clamping mechanism, fix the next link from the end of the chain from which the closing.
- Place the squeeze pin exactly over the roller of this link. Start squeezing it out by smoothly turning the handle clockwise. It cannot be completely removed, otherwise it will be almost impossible to assemble the chain later. The roller should appear on the outside, but still be firmly seated within the link.
- Repeat with the second roller, completely disassembling this link. Remove the outer plate, giving access to the central part, where the next is fixed. Continue until the required number of links is removed. Before you shorten the chain of a speed bike, you need to make sure that after removal, there are different types of links at the ends. The narrow one is inserted between the “ears” of the wide one. To disassemble a bicycle chain without a lock, you can start from any link.
- Assemble the shortened chain by placing a “lock” at both ends. It is more convenient to do this with pliers and a screwdriver. Align them so that the rollers can click into place. If the closing link is disposable, it is necessary to purchase a new one in advance.
- Install both links in the outer slot on the squeeze so that the rollers “look” towards its pin. Rotate the knob counterclockwise until the head appears on the opposite side. The length of the protruding parts of both rollers must be the same.
- Loosen the chain slightly by inserting a link into the inner slot of the squeeze and pressing the pin against the roller. Turn the handle about a quarter of a turn.
- Apply a thin, even layer of lubricant to the chain.
In order to connect a chain of certain brands, such as Shimano and Campagnolo, after shortening, special rollers are required for its assembly. In their absence, it does not make sense to start the procedure. it will still not work to assemble the links into the chain again.
Place the bike on a rack, or, if there is no rack, on any hard, flat surface with the wheels up. Using a rag and kerosene (or other suitable means), thoroughly clean the chain from dust, dirt, grease residues. Find the end link (“lock”). the master link between the gears to facilitate access to it Open the master link following the instructions Determine how many links need to be removed Using a clamp or a special mechanism, fix the next link from the end of the chain from which the closing link is removed Install the squeeze pin exactly over the roller of this link and squeeze it out smoothly turning the knob clockwise Repeat the action for the second roller, completely disassembling this link Using pliers and a screwdriver, assemble the shortened chain by placing a “lock” on both ends Install both links in the outer slot on the squeeze so that the rollers “look” towards it pin Slightly loosening the chain, insert the link into the inner slot of the squeeze and press its pin to the roller Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the chain
Without special device
In order not to have to think about how the bicycle chain opens without special devices, it is strongly recommended to take the necessary tool with you, even on short trips. Attempts to disassemble the chain without squeezing are always the risk of bending or jamming the links without the possibility of their subsequent restoration. But when there is no other way out, you can try to disengage it, proceeding as follows (the method is suitable for bicycle chains without a lock, and in the presence of a closing link):
- Attach a suitable pin (nail, drill, dowel, awl) slightly less than the link roller to the pin (in its absence. to any link).
- Place a nut, washer, or something else similar under the chain and inside the link. This item, playing the role of “amplifier”, will not let the links jam.
- With a hammer, stone, other object at hand, carefully hit the pin, trying to knock out the connection. The key to success is measured and accurate manipulation.
You must first practice on a link that is not being used. This will help you acquire the necessary skill. In any case, you will have to remove the chain from the bike. you need a solid support to work. In “field” conditions, it can be a flat stone, brick.
If you study the design features of the bicycle model in advance and purchase all the necessary tools, there are usually no problems in order to shorten the chain. The situation is worse when you have to use improvised means. this is a real risk of seriously damaging the mechanism. No one is immune from breakdowns on the way, so it is better to carry with you everything that may be required for emergency repairs.
Putting a nut under the chain and inside the link, carefully hit the pin with a hammer, trying to knock out the connection.
How to lubricate a bicycle chain
Transmission care. this is what you most often have to do with your bike if you want it to last long and look great. But there are important tricks here.
Cleanliness is the key to health! This expression is true not only for organisms, but also for bicycle transmission. A terrible dream of your bike. black (like night) cassette, chain and system, completely plastered over “plasticine” from old grease, dust and poplar fluff.?
In such a favorable environment, “steel cutters” usually start. evil microbes, imperceptibly devouring stars, chains and rollers. :).
A well maintained transmission should look “brilliantly”.
This is the most important and frequent thing you will do with your bike. Ideally, after every 100 km of travel in dry weather, give the transmission 3-5 minutes of time to clean, and lubricate it only when you hear the rustle of a dry chain when driving.
Chain lubrication. one of the most important steps in bike care. The used oil (lubricant) directly affects not only the quality of the transmission, but also the durability of the chain and sprockets on your bike. That is why today I will tell you how and with what you need to lubricate the chain, and how you cannot lubricate it. How is bicycle chain lubricant different from other oils? The bicycle chain is in motion, with its rollers constantly rubbing against the stars, as well as against the rollers of the rear derailleur. Chain roller friction (external friction). does not result in “stretching” (increase in length) of the chain. The most intense friction occurs just inside the chain itself. Each link consists of four elements (2 plates, pin and roller). There are about 110 such links in the chain.
With its rollers, the new chain slides precisely into the teeth of the new cassette. To understand where the lubricant is most needed in the chain, you need to understand what exactly is wearing out in it. Please note that the pins are firmly seated in the holes of the outer plates, which means there is no friction between them. There is friction between the inner link plates and the pins. It is here that the development of the pin occurs, the inner plates rub the grooves in it, which leads to the lengthening of the chain (they say: “the chain is stretched”). As a result, the rollers no longer hit the sprocket teeth so accurately and wear them out. Rear derailleur rollers, usually made of plastic, also suffer. In addition, the clarity of gear changes is reduced, noise, clicks, chain slip and other undesirable phenomena occur. Thus, the most undesirable chain wear does not occur outside, but inside it.
The task of any chain lubricant is to penetrate inside and stay there as long as possible: do not dry out, do not wash out with water, do not splash when the chain moves. But on the outside, the lubricant does more harm than good, because coupled with dust, it turns into an abrasive paste that does its job perfectly.
The chain must be kept dry on the outside and lubricated on the inside.
After you have applied liquid (!) Lubricant to each roller, you need to wipe the chain dry with a soft cloth. When riding, some of the lubricant still flows out and accumulates dust, so the chain, stars and rollers must be cleaned with a medium-length hard-bristled brush. It is best to use special handy brushes for this, which can clean hard-to-reach places, such as derailleur rollers and the gap between the stars.
With regular cleaning, your transmission will not only look great, but it will also perform well and last much longer.
To normalize the black “launched” transmission, a brush alone will not be enough, so you will need a chain cleaner. Also called it “digreser” (grease remover, from the word de-greaser). This composition washes well stubborn grease with dirt. At worst, WD-40 will help out, but special cleaners work better. If a lot of sand or dirt gets into the chain (for example, after a serious “mud-kneading”), then the brushes are of little help: the chain should be washed. For this purpose, it is better than a special chain wash. It allows you to gently wash the bike chain even in the apartment.
What to do with a new chain.
The new chain is lubricated when the links are being assembled at the factory with a thick but very sticky lubricant. It will be enough for 300-400 km of driving, after which it will be difficult to put thick grease in the rollers.
Before the first ride, wipe off the sticky lubricant from the new chain with a soft cloth slightly moistened with solvent. Do not wash out the factory grease from the inside!
If you don’t wipe off the new chain, then very quickly the factory sticky grease will turn your transmission into black iron. By the way, for some reason the sellers don’t talk about this, but this simple procedure will make it easier for you to maintain the transmission in a brilliant form (in every sense). Now let’s analyze the chain lubricants.
How not to lubricate the chain.
One of the most common mistakes. This is a chain lubrication with WD-40 aerosol and its analogues.
WD-40. it is a liquid with a high penetrating ability, designed primarily to unblock acidified compounds and displace moisture. Yes, it contains a small amount of oil, but in essence WD-40 is “carbonated kerosene”, but not a lubricant. It is nevertheless good to use “Vedashka”, Anyway (Khado) and other analogs for dissolving old grease if you want to clean well “running” transmission elements. In this case, you need to spray the parts abundantly with a spray, putting a rag so that the composition does not get on the rest of the parts, and wait a little. After that, clean with a brush, wipe dry and lubricate with a special liquid chain lubricant (about it below).
Engine oil as a chain lubricant is already better, but so far “four”. As the name suggests, this oil must operate in motors, in a closed environment at high temperatures. Its outstanding motor properties are not needed at all in bicycles. Conversely, engine oil does not “promise” us to penetrate the rollers well, does not dry out for a long time, does not wash off and weakly attract dust. The same can be said about oil for sewing machines, as well as transformer, motorcycle, olive, massage and aromatic oils.)) With excellent bicycle oils, there is no point in dripping any other oil into the chain and thinking “what will happen.”.
Having bought a jar of excellent bicycle chain oil for 100-200 UAH, you will present it to your grandchildren. Does it make sense to look for an alternative?
Only the chain should be lubricated in the bicycle transmission, and in no case the stars.
As mentioned above, the following qualities are important in bicycle chain lubricant:
- Penetrate the videos well;
- Stay there for a long time, do not dry out and do not flow;
- Attract as little dust as possible;
- Resist being washed away by rain.
In principle, motorcycle chain oil will work for us, but it should also not spray out of the rollers when the chain rotates at high speed. Therefore, motorcycle oil is more expensive and has a larger package. Bicycle chain lubricants are divided into two main types.
Dry grease. They are often made using Teflon and are designed for use in dry or not very humid conditions. It has a good dustproof effect due to the large amount of Teflon in the composition. Well protects the chain from short-term moisture ingress. If you get caught in the rain, this smear will protect the chain from corrosion, but as soon as you get home it is better to clean the transmission, wipe dry, lubricate the chain and wipe dry again. According to many mechanics, dry weather grease is versatile and can be recommended as an “everyday oil”.
Wet and wet lubricant (Wet). It is made on the basis of synthetic silicone oils, sometimes with the addition of paraffin. The lubricant protects the chain very well against direct and prolonged exposure to moisture. Due to the high content of silicone, it works well in wet and dirty conditions, but is categorically not suitable for use in dry weather due to the high fat content of the composition. We recommend using this type of lubricant on rainy autumn days, early spring, when running marathons in bad weather, and especially in winter.
Greases with ceramics deserve special attention. According to the manufacturers, they create a ceramic layer of increased strength on the rubbing parts, which is their service life.
Greases with thickeners are also interesting. When grease is applied to the roller, it is very fluid, after which the solvent evaporates from it, and it becomes thick. Thus, it stays inside longer. When lubricating, it is important to wipe off the outside of the chain in time.
The main types of grease packaging. bottle with tip and aerosol can. Despite the seeming primitiveness of the bottle, I still recommend it. With it, I apply lubricant directly to each roller, so it takes up less space in my backpack. An aerosol one can be taken for a workshop where you need to quickly lubricate more than one chain in a day. Due to spraying, a lot of lubricant is sprayed “by”, the consumption increases. Also, out of habit, it is easy to spray the rims, spokes, frame, brake rotors.
Having bought a jar of excellent bicycle chain oil for 100-200 UAH, you will present it to your grandchildren. Does it make sense to look for an alternative?
In summary, I advise you not to skimp on lubrication and choose a special oil for bicycle chains. It takes into account all the nuances of the open bicycle transmission. I recommend choosing a bottle with a spout. If you choose a spray, be sure to put a rag under the stream so that the grease does not get where it should not. You only need to lubricate the chain, and only inside the rollers, only when you begin to hear the “dry” rustle of the chain while driving. Wipe the chain dry after lubrication. Brush the chain, stars, rollers, avoiding the accumulation of dirt, sand, dust.