How to determine which wheel on a bike

Wheel spoke adjustment

Attention! The spoke tension should only be changed with a spoke wrench, and never with pliers or adjustable wrenches.!

It will take patience to line up a figure eight on a bicycle wheel, especially for first-timers. Tires must be completely removed.

Check the tension of all spokes first. Often times, the rim is bent due to their overall weakening. It is easy to check this: when the spokes are clearly dangling and “obeying” the fingers like strings on a guitar, then they need to be tightened by about 1 turn over the entire wheel. If such a problem is not observed, then nothing needs to be touched: this way you can only aggravate the eight.

We mark the defective area and proceed to the “central” spoke. the one located at the bulge. The turn of the spoke is carried out in the direction opposite to the direction of the bulge. The spokes on the sides of it are loosened. With a figure eight for three needles, the straightening scheme is as follows:

  • Tightening the central quarter turn key.
  • Weakening of the outer needles by an eighth of a turn: the weakening force is half the tension in the center.

Eliminating the little eight

With an eight for 7 spokes, wheel repair is done as follows:

  • The center is pulled half a turn.
  • Weaken two spokes (second and third) on the sides by ¼ turn of the key.
  • 1/8 tightens the fourth and fifth needles.
  • The sixth and seventh (extreme) needles are loosened by 1/8 of a turn.

Straightening the Big Eight

The alternation of pulling and stretching is carried out in such a way that the outer needles on the figure eight are loosened. To check the result, the wheel is hung on the bike and tested for residual curvature. If the figure eight is bent in the opposite direction, you should remove all tension and increase the tightening torque on the loose knitting needles and repeat the procedure again, but with less tightening and loosening forces.

Despite the fact that you have to tinker a lot, you can achieve the ideal result. straightening the wheel to an even circle. And if the first time the work may take too long, then with the subsequent occurrence of the eight, the repair will go much faster. Now, when a defect appears on the wheel, you can not put the bike aside, but quickly adjust the spokes yourself and resume trips.

If your wheel is bent and you don’t know how to fix it, you are in the right place. I have already come across this problem and will tell you simply. repair is possible. everything is quite simple. over, I will say that the problem that you are faced with will most likely arise at an enviable frequency if you love your bike and ride it several times a week. Therefore, it is worth learning this once, so that in the future you can remove the breakdown yourself every time it occurs.

How to tell if your wheel is OK. Simply place the bike upside down on the saddle and on the handlebars with the wheels up. Spin the problematic wheel, as you think, (spin it in the sense of rotating it around the axis) and check it first “by eye”. If everything is in order with the wheel, then it will rotate around the axis absolutely evenly. If there is a figure eight, then it should be visible to the naked eye, or more often something like the beating of a wheel in a certain place. It is necessary to look at the wheel in profile and in face, since the bending of the wheel can occur in different directions.

So, to fix your wheel you may need:

We need the spoke key. I must say right away that you won’t have to tighten up much. You will gradually tighten the knitting needles and check the results immediately.

Power

To align the figure eight using this method, remove the wheel from the frame.

Good to know! No need to remove tire and camera.

Take the wheel from two edges so that the side with the defect is facing you. Now we put the knee on the most convex part and push hard from ourselves. This work is carried out “on weight”.

You can also do all of the above with the wheel when it is on the floor. To do this, put it with the defective side up and press on the central part of the curvature, in parallel with this, pulling the sides of the wheel towards you. In this situation, it is better to use the help of another person to firmly fix the rim to the floor.

After the curvature has been corrected, the wheel is placed on the frame and the fault is re-troubleshooting by rotating the wheel. This method of eliminating the defect is not very effective, but it will help on the road. when the “eight” on the bike was formed suddenly when hitting a large obstacle.

Steps to fix the figure eight

First of all, we need to find on the wheel on the rim the places of deformation (eight), for this we take a marker or a piece of chalk, spin the wheel on an inverted bicycle and slowly bring the marker to the rim, the place where there is an eight will touch the marker and leave a trace on the rim, this is there will be a place where the eight is.

determine, which, wheel, bike

To eliminate the figure eight of the rim, a coordinated tightening and loosening of the spokes from the right sides is required, since if this is done incorrectly, new deformations may appear on the rim, consider further.

Consider a couple of options for eliminating the eight wheel on a bicycle, in various places on the rim.

determine, which, wheel, bike

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The first option is how to remove the eight on the wheel. if there is a slight deformation of the rim, which is between two adjacent spokes. In this situation, we should tighten one spoke, for example, by 1/3 of a turn, and also loosen the adjacent spoke by the same 1/3 of a turn of the spoke key.

The second option can be if the figure eight is opposite any spoke. In this case, we need to tighten this spoke, for example, by 1/4 of a turn, while it is necessary to loosen the adjacent knitting needles by 1/8 of a turn.

We will also consider the option of how to straighten the eight on the wheel. if the wheel eight has affected several adjacent spokes. With such a deformation, it is necessary to tighten or loosen those knitting needles that are closer to the center of the figure eight than those that are at the edges.

General algorithm for eliminating problems with a deformed wheel

The general algorithm is as follows. we determine in which specific place the figure eight begins and where it ends (we select the lesion focus). The next step is to find the center needle in the figure eight and work with it. If our figure eight falls to the left side, select the spoke on the opposite side and pull it up to a distance of less than one turn of the spoke key. Then we take two adjacent knitting needles. these will be knitting needles already on the opposite side of the previous knitting needle. weaken them by the number of revolutions a little less (for example, 2 times less) than we tightened the previous knitting needle. And so on until it is fully straightened. That is, the next two knitting needles (they will be placed on the opposite side) are already tightening even weaker than the very first knitting needle. As you move away from the central spoke (lesion focus), the number of revolutions, respectively, will also decrease gradually.

So, again, how do you fix a figure eight on a bike? To fix the wheel, we select a section where there is an eight, and along the length of this entire section we loosen and tighten the spokes going one after the other. We loosen the spokes on one side of the wheel, and tighten them on the other. When the required operations have been completed with all the spokes, we rotate the wheel again and see the correct movement of the wheel around the axis. If it gets worse, we return the knitting needles to their previous place and make the tightening-weakening less. Thus, the skew in one direction leading to the figure eight will gradually level out. To perfectly align the figure eight, you will have to patiently and painstakingly perform all of the above actions slowly (i.e. we twist a little).

An egg-on-wheel defect occurs most often due to unsuccessful landings. It flattens strictly vertically. Quite often, an egg in combination with an eight is found on the wheel. So having corrected one, do not forget to correct the other. Unlike the figure eight, an egg-type defect is treated by pulling the knitting needles on both sides. We also identify the lesion and gradually, as shown in the picture above, we need to straighten the egg by pulling the knitting needles. It will be said below, but it is necessary to ensure that all the spokes are not overtightened or, on the contrary, are too loose.

Defect elimination

So we came up to answer the question: “how to fix the figure eight on a bicycle wheel?” But before proceeding with the restoration work, please note that there are several ways by which the “figure eight” is corrected on a bicycle.

The video will tell you how to remove the “eight” on a bicycle wheel.

Of all the constituent elements of a bicycle, the most conservative is the spoke wheel. This type of wheel fits on most bikes and has a simple design: a center hub, rim and spokes that connect the rim to the pivot. During the operation of the bicycle, the wheel is subject to static, dynamic and shock loads, as a result of which changes in its shape can often occur.

Wheel spoke adjustment

Attention! The spoke tension should only be changed with a spoke wrench, and never with pliers or adjustable wrenches.!

It will take patience to line up a figure eight on a bicycle wheel, especially for first-timers. Tires must be completely removed.

Check the tension of all spokes first. Often times, the rim is bent due to their overall weakening. It is easy to check this: when the spokes are clearly dangling and “obeying” the fingers like strings on a guitar, then they need to be tightened by about 1 turn over the entire wheel. If such a problem is not observed, then nothing needs to be touched: this way you can only aggravate the eight.

We mark the defective area and proceed to the “central” spoke. the one located at the bulge. The turn of the spoke is carried out in the direction opposite to the direction of the bulge. The spokes on the sides of it are loosened. With a figure eight for three needles, the straightening scheme is as follows:

  • Tightening the central quarter turn key.
  • Weakening of the outer needles by an eighth of a turn: the weakening force is half the tension in the center.

With an eight for 7 spokes, wheel repair is done as follows:

  • The center is pulled half a turn.
  • Weaken two spokes (second and third) on the sides by ¼ turn of the key.
  • 1/8 tightens the fourth and fifth needles.
  • The sixth and seventh (extreme) needles are loosened by 1/8 of a turn.
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The alternation of pulling and stretching is carried out in such a way that the outer needles on the figure eight are loosened. To check the result, the wheel is hung on the bike and tested for residual curvature. If the figure eight is bent in the opposite direction, you should remove all tension and increase the tightening torque on the loose knitting needles and repeat the procedure again, but with less tightening and loosening forces.

Despite the fact that you have to tinker a lot, you can achieve the ideal result. straightening the wheel to an even circle. And if the first time the work may take too long, then with the subsequent occurrence of the eight, the repair will go much faster. Now, when a defect appears on the wheel, you can not put the bike aside, but quickly adjust the spokes yourself and resume trips.

How to remove backlash on a bicycle. Velobaggio

During operation, the wheel fastening is loosened and a backlash appears. Untimely elimination of the indicated malfunction can lead to the failure of the bike at the most inopportune moment.

Factors leading to wheel runout

The main reasons for the appearance of backlash can be considered:

  • significant wear of the installed sleeve;
  • Damage to radius nuts on the ball raceways.
  • Wear of special notches with a sufficiently high relief, which are applied to the locknuts at the factory and contribute to a tighter contact of this product with the radius nut. The increased adhesion of the surface of the nuts reduces the chance of loosening. Similar notches should be found on the main nuts that secure the wheel to the bike. In this situation, it is recommended to replace the nuts with new products.
  • The compression between the radius and the lock nut is relaxed. It is necessary to promptly tighten.
  • When installing a wheel on a bicycle between the locknut and the rear stays (colloquially called “pants”), there is an empty space left for beating. It is recommended to install a washer here, which will select the void.

Removing the fork legs.

We unscrew the nuts or hexagons from the bottom, with a 10 wrench, then we will see the threaded ends from which we unscrewed the nuts, in order for the legs to come off, most likely it will not be necessary to hit them hard with a hammer. In order not to knock off the thread, it is necessary to screw the nuts a little again and knock out the pants with light blows.

Now we unscrew the nuts to the end, now the pants should easily be removed from the legs of the fork.

Now you need to remove the oil seals that prevent dirt from entering the fork. To do this, you need a small screwdriver, pick and remove them.

Next, you need to remove those parts that directly break the fork and create a loofah. bosses or they are also called guides. The guides have latches, so we pull them out by turning them a little, to release the latch of the retainer from the groove in the pants.

Bicycle Repair: How to Eliminate Backlash in the Steering Column

Have you noticed any slight, strange wobbling of the steering wheel during braking? Perhaps some new extraneous sounds were added when leaving obstacles or the steering wheel began to turn tightly? This happens when the bolts on the stem or the steering column cover loosen or the steering bearings become unusable. Now we will tell you how to quickly and efficiently eliminate backlashes and carry out a service.

First of all, we need a tool. Usually you can get by with the following devices:

  • Hexagon set;
  • Rags to remove the remnants of old grease;
  • Grease lubrication.

Of course, a simple tightening of the bolts could be dispensed with, but it would be much better (and safer) to fully inspect the insides of the steering column so that in the future you will not be caught off guard by an unsuccessful collapsed bearing or even worse.

  • Let’s start to make sure that something is really wrong with your helmsman, with one hand squeeze the front brake, and with the other hand the steering column between the stem and the head tube. Rock the bike back and forth and if there is any play, then you will definitely feel it.
  • Now, to get to the bearings and check them, use a suitable hexagon (in my case, it is 5mm) unscrew the cap of your steering wheel. The bolt may be hidden behind the rubber plug, but it can be easily removed with a small flat screwdriver. Be careful, there may be a small lantern piece under your cover. Don’t lose it!
  • Loosen the stem bolts and, holding the fork by the crown, turn the stem on the fork stem “right-left” and pull it up, so it will be easier to remove. It is imperative to hold the fork if you are using a bike stand and do not want the bearings and head parts to scatter on the floor.
  • The steering wheel can be left to dangle on the cables and hoses, just make sure there are no strong bends, this can damage them.
  • Grasping the crown, gently lower the fork down, and if you are doing service without a bike rack, hold the fork and pull the frame up by the upper tube. Be careful, as soon as the stem is immersed in the head tube, the spacer rings, the top cap and the head boot can quickly retract.
  • If you have a headset with loose bearings, then you have to sweat so as not to lose them. Steering wheels with cartridge and sealed bearings are free from this sore. You can place a large bucket under the fork so that the bearing balls fall directly into it.
  • Remember the location of the steering parts and remove them from the steering column, and the fork can be placed next to.
  • Use a rag to remove all residual dirt and old grease from the steering column parts, do not forget about the fork stem. Wipe the bearing seats and inspect for damage or wear. The bearings themselves also need to be inspected. If you have sealed bearings, just twist them with your fingers, they should rotate without wedging. In case of wedging or visual damage, the bearings must be replaced.
  • If you do not observe traces of wear on the steering parts and bearings, then now it is worth starting with abundant lubrication and assembly. This is where a good grease comes in handy. For owners of steering wheels with loose bearings, we recommend liberally lubricating the upper bearing seat in the steering and the lower one on the fork rod, and then install the bearing balls there one by one. The grease will prevent the balls from “scattering” and will help to avoid headaches with the installation.
  • If you have cartridge bearings, do not forget to lubricate the outside and inside of them.
  • Make sure all of your cables and hoses are in the correct position and insert the lower bearing yoke into the steering column and then install the upper bearing. Remember to install the lantern piece and the head cap on the top. If the bearings do not snap into place, then slightly wiggle the fork back and forth, this should help.
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  • Install your spacer rings and stem in the same order as they were originally. And then install the steering cap and tighten the steering column bolt.
  • Do not over-tighten the steering bolt. Using the 1-step method, rock the bike back and forth and tighten the bolt until the play is gone. If the bolt is already tightened, but there is still play, check if there is a distance between the head cover and your stem or the upper lantern ring to the end of the fork stem. If not, you need to add another lantern piece.
  • Align the stem and tighten its bolts.

Timely service and elimination of backlash in the steering column do not take much time and do not require any hidden knowledge or huge financial costs, however, they prevent malfunctions and detect a damaged bearing in time. It is much cheaper to change it than to buy a steering wheel, and in especially neglected cases, a frame.

Prevention and elimination.

For convenience, I would recommend removing the fork completely, but some do it on bicycles as well. It should not be difficult for you to remove the fork from the bike, unscrew a couple of bolts, remove the handlebars and, if necessary, brakes or a cable.

We eliminate the problem correctly

You need to remove the camera. Pump it up and grease it with glue. Then apply to the patch. Wait for the glue to set, and after 5 minutes the camera can be mounted.

Foreign body in the tire

After a puncture, the camera was sealed using a flipper tape, but the working element is still constantly lowered. Perhaps, a shard of glass remained in the tire. It is difficult to detect and constantly creates problems for the cyclist.

On a note! Before boarding, carefully check the wheel for small stones, glass and other foreign debris.

When beading and disassembling a wheel, you need to use a special tool. a beading blade. Discard screwdrivers, keys and so on.

determine, which, wheel, bike

Worn tire

Most often, a bicycle is deflating a wheel that has served its life. The surface of the tire becomes more viscous, collecting various debris, small glass and so on. All the little things gradually penetrate inside, right up to the camera. As a result. another puncture.

In addition, holes are formed on the worn rubber, into which the bicycle tube is visible when inflated. It can simply come into contact with the road when driving. This will inevitably lead to another unpleasant situation.

Element not fully inflated

In this case, there is not sufficient shock absorption. You can get a puncture by running into, for example, a pointed pit.

Working element pumped over

Another reason for deflating a wheel on a bicycle. From the inside, the rim is glued with a flipper tape. It is she who protects the camera. The pumped-up element may break the flipper or burst.

Tape designed to prevent punctures

Indeed, protective tape can be source of problems. It is tough, with sharp edges. If not installed correctly, the camera can be cut.

Note! Constant use of an anti-puncture tube reduces tire wear resistance.

About the reasons leading to negative consequences

There are at least five reasons. which can ruin your mood before a bike ride or while riding a bike:

  • Normal wear and tear on a bicycle tire.
  • A foreign body has got into the tire.
  • Not fully inflated.
  • Pumped over.
  • Special anti-puncture tape.

Let’s dwell on each problem separately and find out what is the matter.

Why flattens a wheel on a bicycle

Problems associated with the wheels constantly accompany outdoor enthusiasts and athletes. If a whole staff of employees is involved in the maintenance of bikes for professionals, then amateurs have to independently decide why they deflate a wheel on a bicycle.

An annoying nuisance that seems impossible to avoid. But this is only at first glance. Often we ourselves are to blame for the flat tire of the bicycle. What is it about?