What are the best tires for a bicycle
Bicycle tires greatly affect the behavior of the bike on the road. Adhesion to the road surface, and therefore the safety of the cyclist, largely depends on their quality, especially on bends and on wet roads. They also have a big impact on speed, amortization and cross-country ability is great. The quality depends on the technologies and materials used. It is clear the better the tires, the better the characteristics of the bike will be, but at the same time they are more expensive.
But, it must be borne in mind that even the highest quality models will not be able to provide the best possible performance in all respects. Some tires are designed for high-speed driving on smooth asphalt roads, while others are more suitable for dirt and off-road.
Therefore, when choosing a bicycle tire, the following factors must be considered:
- type of road surface (asphalt, broken asphalt, soil, sand, gravel, mud, forest path, off-road, ice, snow, etc.);
- driving style (walking, fast, aggressive);
- rim diameter and thickness.
Synthetic or natural rubber, as well as composite materials are used as materials for the manufacture of bicycle tires. compounds. Soft rubber has better traction, but wears out faster. The compound lasts much longer, because it often contains a very solid substance. silicon. You can easily distinguish rubber from composite by touch, for this you need to rub it with a dry finger over the surface. clean rubber is softer, it will creak and rub.
Rubber is of different quality, it is obtained by mixing synthetic or natural rubber with various fillers, followed by strengthening with sulfur, by vulcanization. Rubber with a minimum of impurities usually has better quality, and more filler degrades the quality.
In order to roughly determine the quality of the rubber, you need to hold your finger along its surface with pressure, if your finger gets dirty, then the quality is low. You can also tear off the tendril left after casting. If it is stretched, then the quality is good, if they immediately come off, without stretching, then the quality is poor. The quality of the ebb is checked by visual inspection, the walls should not have folds, and the onboard cord should be even.
Many models are made from different materials, the center of the tread is made of a hard compound to improve roll and speed, and the side lugs are made of soft rubber for good grip and cornering safety.
In the manufacture of rubber, artificial rubber is much more often used, it is much cheaper than natural rubber and the quality is quite good. Natural rubber is extracted from the sap of rubber trees, it is very laborious and expensive. But the natural product is lighter and more durable.
The outer part of the tire. Often made up of two parts made from different materials: a treadmill treadmill in the middle and softer lugs on the sides. It is the hardness, depth and tread pattern that determine the characteristics of the bike and the place of its use.
The drawing can be positive and negative. The first option is well suited for driving on asphalt, in which case the total area of the protruding lugs is greater than or equal to the area of the grooves. Lug height low.
Negative tread is designed to improve traction on soft soil, mud, sand, snow and ice, in which case the lugs are higher, their total area is smaller compared to the area of the grooves.
This is the carcass that gives the shape to the tire. It is woven from synthetic threads. nylon or others. The frame can have different weave densities, there is a unit for measuring the number of stitches in an inch of length, it is indicated by TPI (EPI) and is always indicated in the characteristics. The higher the value, the harder the carcass is and the more efficiently it resists punctures. Some models are additionally equipped with an anti-puncture layer, at SCHWALBE it is called K-Guard.
The weave density of budget tires is 20-30 TPI. For good mountain and hybrid models, this figure is 60-67 TPI, for road models 60-130 TPI. Some racing single tubes have TPI up to 320.
- Gumwall is a low to medium density carcass with a fairly thick rubber layer. Works on most types of bikes;
- Skinwall is a high-density carcass, thick rubber just near the rim, the rest of the beads are very thin. It has a very light weight and high cost, therefore it is installed only on expensive sports bikes.
Insufficient durability of budget tires (up to 30 TPI), often compensated by an even greater increase in the thickness of cheap rubber on the tread, which affects the increase in weight.
This is a special clamp that holds the tire to the rim. It is made by twisting steel wire or kevlar threads. In budget tires, steel is usually used, they are called clincher.
Kevlar tires are lighter and easier to store, which is why, thanks to the flexible Kevlar threads, they fold easily into a compact accordion, they are also called folding or folding. Of course, they cost more.
An example of a good Kevlar model for a niner: SCHWALBE 29×2.25 (57-622) NOBBY NIC Performance Folding B / B-SK DC 67EPI EK (article TIR-50-34).
The tire type is determined by the height and tread pattern. The deeper it is, the better the grip on any surface. Negative deep tread experiences more rolling resistance, so roll will get worse and speed will decrease.
Non-tread tires with only shallow water drainage grooves or completely smooth tires. Ideal for racing and fast driving on asphalt. They have very low rolling resistance, therefore the roll-up and speed are maximum.
Grip is low, so you need to be careful when cornering and braking, especially on wet or muddy roads.
They are often installed on road bikes, but slicks are also produced for other types of bikes, even for mountain bikes. They are bought as a second set of tires for travel on flat roads, while the travel speed is significantly increased.
An example of a good quality slick tire for a touring or hybrid bike with thin 35mm wheels: SCHWALBE 27.5×1.35 650B (35-584) KOJAK RaceGuard B / B-SKRLA HS385 SpC 67EPI (article TIR-96-58).
Slick tire for city bike or mountain bike with 26-inch wheels: SCHWALBE 26×2.00 (50-559) KOJAK RaceGuard B / B-SKRLA HS385 SpC 67EPI (TIR-80-63)
Unlike a slick, this type is equipped with a full-fledged low tread along the edges, and in the center there are only very small hooks or drainage grooves. These options are considered a versatile option, suitable for fast driving on dry or wet asphalt and safe driving on the ground. Ideal for travel.
Anti-puncture semi-slick for a tourist or hybrid bike: KENDA 700x40C (42-622) K879 KWICK (article 5-525933).
Semi-slick for mountain niner: KENDA 29 “2.10 (54×622) K1083A HAPPY MEDIUM 60TPI DTC (article 5-523396). Dual compound DTC technology and a hard semi-slick L3RPRO tread in the center guarantee excellent acceleration and roll on the asphalt, while the extended shape of the soft side ridges Stick-E, provides stability on a sticky road and when cornering. Note the high density of the carcass of 60 TPI.
Kevlar semi-slick for mountain or city bike, with wheel size 26 × 2.1 inches: Schwalbe Sammy Slick Folding.
If you often drive on dirt roads, rough and off-road, choose spiked tires. For asphalt roads, they are much less suitable, since they have a worse roll-off, moreover, on the asphalt the spikes are quickly erased. Usually these models are thicker than semi-slick and slick models, they are most often installed in mountain bikes.
Different types of spiked treads are available for different road conditions:
- Tall, wide cleats are well suited for off-road and muddy conditions and provide flexibility in tough road conditions. The wide spacing of the studs prevents dirt from accumulating between them. An example of a good quality high tread mountain bike tire: PREMIUM KENDA K1055 EL MOCO 60TPI STICK 26 “x2.35 (code number: 5-523317)
- Wide, paddle-studded tires ideal for sand.
- Medium cleats are used on rough terrain, forest and mountain trails, they provide good traction on technically difficult sections of the path, such as stones and ground with roots. Wide version with medium tread: PREMIUM KENDA K1047 SMALL BLOCK EIGHT 60TPI 26 “x2.35 (article 5-523316).
- Small spikes are well suited for compacted soil, they slow down less, so the speed is faster with them, you can sometimes drive on the asphalt. Wide tire with low tread: PREMIUM KENDA K1016 KINIPTION 60TPI 26 “x2.30 (article 5-523782).
Ideal for driving on frozen roads, ice and wet or loose snow, also good for rough terrain. They are made of a soft compound with an aggressive tread with built-in metal spikes arranged in several rows. There are two-row and four-row modifications. Victory or carbide studs give confidence even on smooth lake ice.
There are even spiked half-slickers, but they are rare. Great for the city, when icy and snowy asphalt areas alternate with clean.
When driving on clean asphalt, studs may be lost. They pop out or are simply erased. So, it is advisable to avoid asphalt. But the most important thing is that winter models must be run in correctly.
To break in new studded tires, you need to inflate them before the first ride to the minimum allowable pressure. Then you need to carefully ride on a flat, compacted snow-covered or dirt road, 30-40 kilometers, without sudden braking. This will allow the thorns to sit in place and prevent premature loss.
An example of high-quality, affordable winter tires, which we recommend choosing for an MTB bike: PREMIUM KENDA K1013 KLONDIKE 26 “x 2.35 30 TPI (article: 5-528114). 368 victorious studs, located in 4 rows, provide excellent grip on frozen expensive and remove all restrictions on the passability of your bike.
A more expensive winter option from Schwalbe is the ICE SPIKER 26×2.10 RaceGuard mountain model. 304 steel long tenons arranged in 4 rows. The anti-puncture properties are provided by an additional protective Kevlar layer. Price about 100.
Winter option from Finns. Nokian Freddie’s 336 with lots of studs and a grippy tread pattern. Studs are made using AluStud technology with carbide tips. Price about 80.
Some craftsmen make their own studded tires. This option has both pros and cons. Let’s consider them, let’s start with the pros: price, availability of materials and the ability to choose the material and length of the studs. Now the cons: for self-production you need straight hands and skill, you will have to make an effort, there is a possibility of poor-quality assembly and even tire failure, there is no confidence in the strength and durability of the stud material, carbide and victorious tips do not shine. In total, we have: the price will be cheaper, but the durability, service life and appearance are likely to be worse. You can also damage the tire during manufacture.
Special Kevlar tires without tubes installed on rims with high beads are sealed with anaerobic adhesive (BST type). Previously, tubeless were used mainly among professional freeriders and other extreme sportsmen, in recent years they have become very popular among many MTB amateurs. Today, advanced technologies are becoming available to an increasing number of cyclists, although are still quite high.
When servicing the wheels, do not use car pry bars or improvised tools, such as a screwdriver, you need to use special plastic bike racks.
How To Read a Bike Tire Size
This type of wheel has better parameters compared to the heavy construction of the standard tire-tube type. Below we list their main advantages, which are especially important for an aggressive driving style on cross-country and off-road:
- The wheel is punctured very rarely. Tightly weave cord perfectly prevents punctures from thorns, glass and stones.
- If a puncture still happens, then you can drive a half-flat tire to your house or a repair shop. Even at 0.5 atmospheres, the tubeless roll has a good roll, due to the rigid cord.
- Many models of this type are able to fix the puncture site themselves, without the participation of a cyclist, using a special sealant.
- Punctures are easily repaired. There is no need to remove the wheel from the bike to fix the puncture, just insert the raw rubber cord into the puncture site.
- A snake bite will never happen, since the camera is missing, it will not get between the tire and the rim when it hits a bump.
- The wheel becomes lighter due to the lack of a tube and the use of modern lightweight rims.
- There is no camera, which means that it does not scroll, and it becomes less of a problem.
Today there are 2 tubeless wheel standards:
- Universal tubeless system UST (Universal System Tubeless), with a completely sealed rim, without drilled holes for the spokes on the inside. They are very sturdy, suitable for heavy cyclists and very easy to use as no sealant is needed. There are also disadvantages: high cost, more weight, if you need to replace the spoke, the standard one will not work.
- BST standard. A newer design, which has the following advantages: very light rim, sidewall of the rim is low, lower cost, standard spokes are suitable for repair. The disadvantage is the need to use a sealant to seal the rim joint. tire. The holes for the spokes in the rim are sealed with special tape NoTubes or ZTR.
Smooth, very tight corded tire that looks like a tube. Attached to the rim with glue. The very high weave density of the cords, up to 320 TPI, provides incredible strength and penetration resistance, while the weight is very low and the cost is high. Applicable only to sports road racing cars.
An example of a high quality cycling tube: Gommitalia Champion 700×23.
Rim diameter for wheels, size:
- 28 “and 29” is 622 mm, they differ in height and width;
- 27.5 “- 584 and 590 mm.
- 26 “- 559 mm.
Standard wheel diameters and thicknesses for different types of bikes:
- children: (10-20 “) x (1.4-1.75”);
- teenage: (24-26 “) x (1.75-2.1”);
- folding: (16-24 “) x (1.5-2.1)”;
- mountain hardtails: (26 “, 27.5”, 29 “) x (2-2.25”);
- double suspension for freeride or downhill: (26 “, 27.5”, 29 “) x (2.3-2.5”);
- city bikes: (26 “, 700 mm) x (2”, 40 mm);
- hybrid: 700 mm x 42 mm;
- road: 700 mm x (19-28 mm);
- BMH: 20 “x (2-2.4”).
In fact, there are no difficulties when choosing a size. You just need to write down the marking of the old tire and choose a model of the same size. Diameter and thickness are indicated on the side in inches or millimeters. In inches it is customary to measure the diameter and thickness of the wheels of mountain bikes, and in millimeters. hybrid, road and some city bikes. Sometimes dimensions are indicated in both inches and millimeters.
Anti-puncture sealants for tubeless
In order for the tubeless to eliminate punctures itself, a special liquid is poured into it through the nipple, about 100 g per wheel is enough. The sealant has a limited life and must be changed periodically. This period depends on the ambient temperature and the intensity of mixing. Longer life in cold weather. You cannot store a bike for a long time without moving with filled tubeless wheels.
There are different types of sealants, we will consider them below.
Microscopic particles of rubber in a protein shell are suspended in the liquid. In the event of a puncture, particles of the sealant rapidly rush to its place and the protein shell breaks into the fistula. In this case, the rubber molecules instantly react with the torn rubber, a cold vulcanization process takes place. This creates a reliable plug. The smallest particles easily penetrate even the smallest punctures and pores. The inner surface of the tire is gradually covered with an additional layer of rubber, which prolongs its service life.
5.2. With polymer fiber.
Antifreeze fluid contains particles of polymer fiber. In the event of a puncture, air escapes at high speed, capturing liquid with polymer particles, which gradually clogs the puncture.
This type of sealant works well to seal large punctures and nail holes. True, a large hole is clogged with a sealant slowly, the pressure will have time to drop to the limit. Micro punctures are not eliminated because the polymer fibers are larger.
Advantages: low cost and relative durability.
Liquid with dissolved organosilicon compounds. The quality of the sealing is poor. Today this composition is practically not used, it was replaced by more advanced latex.
With mud protector
The mud protector can be improved by using studded sectors. This gives stability not only on mud, but also on an icy road, in conditions of freezing snow slurry. which slick can not boast of.
Any aggressive tread. as opposed to slick and semi-slick tires.
The width of road bike tires is 20-28 mm. But such wheels can fall into the grates of the drainage system, in the cracks of the dispersed paving slabs. In order not to be injured at a speed of 30-40 km / h, cyclists use road and hybrid bicycles as racing bicycles, where the wheel width is already 30-40 mm. They change spiked and evil tires for much smoother ones. slicks and semi-slick.
As a result, having increased the level of physical training, in a year it is not a problem for such a biker to accelerate to 35 km / h. and keep this speed constant for at least 10-20 minutes. Experienced cyclists, who know the local roads by heart and constantly monitor the quality of their surface, do not need to change their road bike for any other.
Tires with a white or reflective stripe on the sides of the treadmill are an attribute of safety on the track at night. Also, the tire differs in the shape of the tread sector. Leaving a trail that repeats a special tread pattern, to the liking of teenagers on a mountain bike with 26 ” wheels.
Why most cyclists ride mountain bikes?
A mountain bike is good because it has not a dozen speeds, but much more, which allows the cyclist to climb almost any climb, no matter how steep. In part, it is this assortment that becomes the primary and decisive factor when choosing a bike. Future owners are not stopped by the fact that a mountain bike is much heavier than a road bike by several or more kilograms.
The second reason for choosing a mountain bike is the fashion imposed on the mass media. Therefore, in most cases, replacing a tire is an opportunity to correct a drawback. the difficulty of overclocking, which all factory-assembled mountain bikes have.
Mountain bikes are usually fitted with 26-inch wheels. In the case of hybrid bikes, wheels can be up to 28, 27.5, 27 and 29 inches.
Replacing a tire with an aggressive tread for a tire with a much smoother tread is necessary for at least 95% of users. Statistics show that only about 5% of mountain bike owners regularly arrange walks and marathons on country roads, forests or fields. The lot of the vast majority. city parks and sidewalks, as well as city street roads.
Examples of ready-made solutions
- Kenda 26 х95, half slick, 5-527625. Designed for hybrid and mountain bikes with 26 “wheels. Requires a pressure of 2.8-4.5 atm. Weighs 790 g, price. from 750 r.
- Kenda 26 x 10, 30 TPI cord quality, high tread with pyramid-shaped spikes for fast speed. The multi-sided tread pattern adheres well to the road or track. Cost. from 1250 rubles. Suitable for descents from a mountain or hill, for slalom. Weight. 690 g. Pressure. up to 4.6 atm.
- Continental Ride Cruiser, semi-slick, 26×2.2, 180TPI, 101529. Designed for the city, anti-puncture layer, pumpable up to 58 PSI, puncture protection at the level of three layers of cords with 180 TPI strands. Weighs up to 950 g, price. 2090 r.
- Continental Contact Travel, slick, 26×2.0, inflated to 65 PSI, puncture-proof, designed for city driving. Cord 3180 TPI. Cost. from 4100 r.
As the above examples show, the best choice in terms of quality is still more determined by a specific price.
6 ” Bicycle Tires: Manufacturers & Selection Tips
A mountain bike for city roads is the same as a jeep on an avenue with a flawless asphalt surface. But since you bought yourself a mountain bike instead of a road bike, and it turned out to have toothy tires for dirt and soil, then this situation is corrected by changing the tire on each of the wheels.
Composition and layering of slick and semi-slick
A slick tire for all bikes, including mountain bikes, consists of:
- technological smooth coating from the inside:
- layers of cord. rubber with kevlar or aramid threads;
- anti-puncture polymer (high-strength rubber) with a thickness in the center of the treadmill of at least 3-5 mm;
- sidewalls and bead cables.
A high quality tire has all these layers. Cord weave is 120-300 TPI (threads per inch of surface distance). Kevlar or aramid threads are used here.
In low-quality and cheap bicycle tires, the weave density of the cord reaches only 30-60 TPI, the cord layer is one, not three, there is no anti-puncture layer.
The manufacturer saved vulcanizing additives on the quality of rubber. a lack of sulfur by volume. Such a splint leaves black marks on the skin when pressed with a finger. avoid them. It is better to choose a quality product for 5 years of active driving than to change worn tires every 2-3 months. As a result, it is more profitable and cost-effective.
Which gives a smoother and narrower tire?
The advantages of a narrow slick tire are as follows.
- Less wheel weight means you accelerate faster. Relevant for city dwellers: at intersections and turns often have to slow down, stop.
- The bike will become lighter. it will be easier for you to carry it to the 8th floor.
- The area of contact between the wheel and the asphalt will narrow. the roll will improve. Another plus to the gain and sustained speed.
- Slick does not throw dirty water all over the place. it is all caught by the wing. You will return home with much cleaner pants and boots than if you continued to ride the evil rubber. You will have to wash your bike from dirt faster and less.
- In combination with a careful ride (on smooth and smooth asphalt roads), gentle braking, the slick tread will wear off after an average of 10 years.
Slick is also not without its drawbacks.
- Under a slick tire, and it is narrower, you need an appropriate camera. Mountain bike cameras with a width of 1.95-2.25 inches will not work: when inflated, but limited by the size of the tire itself, they will wrinkle. Wrinkles under the influence of air pressure and the road will be frayed immediately.
- Significantly higher than in conventional mountain bike wheels, pressure will not immediately become a habit. for the first time, by inertia, instead of 5 atmospheres, you can pump 2.5 or 3.
Sizes of bicycle tires: what are they and how to choose the right option?
There are many reasons people buy a bike. Regardless of the purpose of this vehicle, its most important element is the tires, which often have to be changed. What they are and how to choose them correctly, you can find out from this article.
Standard tire parameters
The dimensions of the wheels (rims) are the determining factor, because they determine the purpose for which the bike is suitable. Previously, when selecting bicycle tires, they were guided only by the outer size of the circle, but over time, a rather large number of manufacturers appeared in the world, as a result of which confusion arose. In order to make it easier to navigate the types of tires and to select them correctly for your bikes, a unified system of standards has been developed.
It was developed by the international organization for standardization ISO, formerly known as ETRO. This system takes into account the width of the tire, the inner and outer diameters of the rim and the height.
These parameters are directly dependent on the year of manufacture, manufacturer and, of course, the purpose of the bike.
Children’s bicycles, balance bikes, scooters, and some folding designs typically have an outer rim diameter of 12 to 24 inches. For adult models, this parameter is in the range of 26-28 inches.
The inner diameter of the rim, or, as it is also called, the landing diameter, is the most important parameter for a tire, since it must match the inner width of the bicycle rim.
Shop Talk: How To Choose Your Wheel Size
The inner tire size, according to ISO standards, is closely related not only to the outer diameter, but also to the width. It, depending on the purpose of the tire, can fluctuate between 18-75 mm.
There is a table in which the tire parameters are indicated in accordance with the produced bike models and their purpose.
Difference between bike tire sizes easily explained (26″, 27.5″, 29″)
For two-wheeled vehicles made in France and in some other European countries, there is its own correspondence table, in which the designations of the inner and outer diameters, width and height have a slightly different look.
Repair & Tuning. Best Rim and Tire Width Combinations
I caught sight of an article on one of the foreign sites I decided to translate it, Thursday evening is a great time to discuss something like that. Especially against the background of recent holivars in Olga’s theme. With the advent of new standards, the number of questions regarding the selection of tire width for certain rims has increased. And the article will consider not just the possibility of installing rubber on the rims, but precisely the best combination for maximum functionality and safety. Manufacturers such as WTB, Kenda, Schwalbe, Stan’s NoTubes agree with the Mavic’s classification. Here she is:
The second (straight walls) and third (walls with hooks for the tire beads) columns indicate the inner width of the rims. Naturally, this is all relevant not only for the aforementioned brands, but also for all manufacturers adhering to the ETRTO standard. According to Mavic representatives, the international standards company is going to make the appropriate changes to include groups with sizes:
tubeless road bike rims / tires; 2. rims with hooks for tubeless MTB tires; 3.Rims with straight walls for conventional MTB tires; 4.Rims with straight walls for tubeless MTB tires; 5. for wider rims (up to 50 C) for large tires (up to 4 “).
Let’s take a look at the WTB rim and tire compatibility guidelines:
The addition of the current ETRTO standard is actually a very important point. There are N / A values in the table above, but this is only because the standard does not currently include rims with an internal thickness of 29 mm. Nevertheless, if the question of compatibility arises, you can safely write to the manufacturer. he will answer, because he himself is interested in this. A little about the numbers on the tires. The first is its width in mm, the second is the diameter of the rim for which it is designed: 622 mm. 700c and 29 “MTB road wheels; 584 mm. 650b / 27.5” MTB; 559mm. 26 “MTB.
It is important to remember that the numbers we use 700, 650, 26 ″, 27.5 ″ and 29 ″ indicate the outer diameter of the tire and are not related to the size of the rim.
Non-standard products These include, for example, Industry Nine.
If the tire is too wide for the rim, then if the bike is heavily stuck in corners, there is a risk of simply ripping it off. We tried to balance everything in our products. However, tire weave may vary. The 2.25 tire can perform well on a 35mm inner rim, however we recommend narrower rims. Not only that, wider rims carry more weight. Riding mainly on tires 2.1-2.25” prefer narrower rims.
Naturally, everything written above is just our recommendations, not rules that must be followed unquestioningly. The decisive factor when choosing questionable options is safety. Nobody wants to fit a 2.2 “tire on a fat bike or fit it on our Ultralight rims.”
Above is a picture from Stan’s No Tubes. And also from them:
The “Wide Right” logo, which can be seen in both images above, assumes an image that reflects the optimal rim-tire combination. 1. The shape of the bulb. Rim too narrow. Poor grip and cornering stability; 2. Correctly selected width. No distortion and the tire works properly; 3. Dome. Rim too wide. The sides are too wide, the tire absorbs impacts against obstacles less, the controllability in turns is worse, the side spikes are easier to cut.
Schwalbe believes that some tires are deliberately narrowed because they will stretch after a few rides.
What happens if a wide tire is pulled on a narrow rim, we figured it out. But what if the cyclist wants a little more width by replacing the rim with a wider one? Kenda’s answer is: Any 1mm deviation from the recommended rim width (it doesn’t matter, or.) Will cause the tire to gain or lose 0.4mm in width.
Example: A 2.20 (56mm) tire should be fitted to a rim with an inner width of 24mm, but it was decided to fit it on a rim with an inner width of 29mm. As a result, the tire width will be 58 mm, which is closer to 2.30 “.
Yes, this can be done if the required size of your favorite tire does not exist, but another question arises. the issue of grip. Either the resistance indicator will increase when driving, or the tire will rip off faster in a corner. “
62 mm corresponds to 2.44 “tires, larger ones are not provided by the standard. For now. A little calculation from the resource BikeRumor: colleagues came to the conclusion that the rim width should be 32-70% of the tire width, according to the table above. For a 2.8” tire, this is a rim of 23 up to 49 mm. The ideal width that does not distort the tire, considering everything written above, starts from 35-40 mm. Warning: using this calculation, you choose everything at your own peril and risk. People who carried out it do not bear responsibility.
But what about fat bikes? : from
Using the formula above, we can say that for a 4.0 “tire, rims from 34 to 71 mm will be ideal. There are many options, play for your health, the manufacturers have taken care of everything.
The only exception is the reasoning about tire penetration. For fat bikes, it is not so relevant. Tim Kruger, an employee of the newly minted Terrene Tire company, says that the tire pressure on the fats will allow you to hold back the hardest bumps without harming the rim. If you want to ride on loose ground, use wider rims. Do you ride dry more often? Your choice is narrower.
Industry Nine is talking about 4.8 “and 5.0” snow tires on 90mm rims. 75-80mm rims will fit the more common 3.8 “and 4.0” tires. In the summer, it is better to choose 50 mm rims and pump up the wheels harder.
Thanks to Baykrumor for the article and to you if you are reading this. Here the rules for posting were published, let’s not forget them and together we will make the resource better! And they can always be found under the options for choosing a blog (as practice shows, not everyone notices):