DIY bike rear hub repair
One of the most practical and healthy means of transport is the bicycle. However, its maintenance can cost you a pretty penny if you do not know how to repair at least minor breakdowns.
In such cases, it is simply necessary to have such skills as attention to detail and accuracy, since they will help you to repair or disassemble any part, for example, the rear hub of a bicycle wheel.
When to Service the Rear Hub
To ensure that the bike parts are always in perfect technical condition, they must be regularly serviced. If we consider the rear hub of a bicycle, then for it you will need:
- periodically tighten the body;
- regularly change the bearing balls;
- at the next disassembly, lubricate all internal parts of the case;
- adjust the brake hub from time to time.
Dismantling the rear wheel itself is as easy as shelling pears, but the process of removing and disassembling / assembling the rear bicycle hub is much more difficult. And nevertheless, without such regular maintenance of the part in question, it may soon need to be overhauled or replaced.
Signs that indicate an urgent need for service on the rear bicycle hub:
- when driving, there is a strong wheel play;
- the crunch of bearings is clearly audible (this means that they are simply worn out);
- on the go, the bike body rattles and staggers;
- rolling dynamics is bad.
It is worth knowing some of the features of eliminating a particular symptom:
- If the rear hub casing is spinning, its looseness, then this can be eliminated by tightening the fastening nuts.
- If the movement of the rear wheel is difficult, then it may be necessary to loosen the retaining nut a little. most likely, too much force was applied when tightening it.
- If extraneous sounds appear when the bike is moving and the roll-forward deteriorates, you will need to replace the bearings or completely lubricate the rear hub housing.
Industrial bearing bushing
Many people dislike bushings on flare nuts because of the difficulties associated with adjusting them after assembly. In this regard, a worn out support is often changed to a version with slips.
The advantages of the industrial bearing design include easy maintenance. There is no need to adjust anything here: the bearing fits snugly in the cup and on the axle, there are no flare nuts. In theory, such a wheel should not have any backlash, which is demonstrated by expensive specimens. In cheaper models, low-grade rolling bearings are used, in which the clearance is observed even from the packaging.
For your information. Backlash in the bushings on a slip is eliminated only by replacing the bearings. The latter are difficult to remove, therefore, when critical gaps appear, the mechanism is replaced as an assembly.
How to disassemble
Initially, it is necessary to provide unhindered access to the flare nuts. For this, they usually remove:
- Disc brake rotor. Not in all cases can be dismantled. Make sure that the bolts do not interfere with the installation and rotation of the tapered (thin) wrench. If there is a gap between the key and the disc, it is not necessary to remove the latter. There are situations when the tool fits freely in the back, and on the front bushing it is impossible to do without removing the rotor.
- Cassette / ratchet. It is imperative to remove, otherwise you cannot reach the second cone, and the axle cannot be removed. The process of dismantling the cassette is shown in the photo.
When the flare nuts are accessible, you can unlock one of them. In this case, it is important to observe two rules:
- Only one side is allowed to unlock! The second must be locked to failure even from the factory and it is forbidden to touch it.
- You can only unlock the cone located on the side of the rotor mounting (if there is no disc brake, then focus on the side opposite to the cassette). The fact is that the cone nut, weakened from the side of the sprockets, self-tightens upon impacts or collisions with an obstacle, which is why the free wheeling of the sleeve is disturbed. And this reduces the resource and worsens the roll-forward. This does not happen with the left side, since there the cone-nut tends to unscrew, and the lock nut and eccentric prevent this. In total, such a scheme maintains a balance and you can choose a gap without prejudice to the roll.
The deconstructing procedure is shown in the photographic material. A thin cone wrench adheres to a cone-nut, and with another wrench (for convenience, it is advisable to take a more massive tool) unscrew the locknut. After that, the threaded parts are completely twisted, and the axle is removed. Next, you need to remove the anthers and remove the balls from the cups.
Attention! When disassembling, note the order in which the components are located. The ideal option is to take a photo of the placement of anthers, nuts and washers on fresh tracks, as shown in the image.
When dismantling the balls from the seats, it is important to separate them into two groups. Those on the right must be folded in one place, those on the left in another. Do not mix or confuse these groups with each other, otherwise, after assembling the perfect reel without backlash, you will not get.
Important! When removing the axle on the front wheel of a bicycle without disc brakes, mark the side of the non-rolled cone on the tire. Another landmark on this type of bike is the direction of rotation of the rubber shown on the side.
How to Assemble the Rear Bicycle Hub
Varieties of rear bicycle hubs, how they differ from each other
One of the reasons for dividing the rear hubs into varieties is their design. Depending on it, the rear bushings are divided into:
- Without brake.
- With built-in brakes.
According to the method of fixing, the bushings can be fixed on two nuts, which is much cheaper, or they can be fixed with an eccentric. The second method is more expensive, but much more convenient, since the nuts must be removed with a wrench, and to remove the wheel on the eccentric, it is enough to squeeze its handle. It only takes a couple of seconds.
The material of manufacture also matters. Bushings are:
- Aluminum (lightweight and non-corrosive).
- Steel (strong but heavy and highly corrosive).
The bushings also differ in the size of the axle, the standards are different. from 9mm to 15mm. Note that the larger the sleeve, the heavier it is.
How to loop through the rear and front hubs on a speed bike
Bulkhead of the bushing, whether it be rear or front, is an event that can be either forced, due to water entering the bushing, or routine. Its purpose is for the most part preventive. to change the lubricant and, if necessary, replace some components. If we are talking about a classic cone bike, then it can be a worn ball or a cone. However, on high-speed bicycles, there is another type of support that also needs maintenance.
How to choose a rear bike hub
Dim, she’s just as resistant to shit and fords as Novatek-style bushings on slip. Do you think about the DMR or where is the super protection from water? Only on the bearings themselves, and on the XT there are no seals on the bushing itself, but there are. Here the drum is not protected, yes.
Although I will not argue, tk. by virtue of “religion” I myself have been using bushings on slip for a long time.
I do not agree that the eccentric is analogous, they have different axle clamping forces.
Well, what if we assume that the wheel doesn’t just come off? 🙂 If there is a puncture / breakdown. still take out the assemblies. If the transportation. remove the caliper insert. along with it, you can get the assembly. In general, I see no problems.
This is when the axle, then you carry a key that is no longer needed for anything (besides, the key is quite large and relatively heavy). And here I do not carry anything superfluous. Editors don’t care to be. I don’t like the idea of pulling the same Kaisers off the rim manually. 🙂
since quick-detachable wheels IMHO achievement is doubtful 🙂
Xenium, by the way, showed some incompatibility with some frames. If the frame is purely for the axle (ie there are not slots in the dropouts, as usual, but holes), then on the inner side of the dropouts there will most likely be “tables” on which the wheel is placed and then the axle is quietly threaded and twisted through the dropouts and the hub So, you have to look at what radius these tables are. Xeniums in this place are quite thick. 20mm diameter. And, say, my Novatek. 18. And the diesel fuel, it seems, is also smaller. Because of this, recently one person from Velomania was sawing the freshly bought frame of Merida 1-5-0, because when he put the wheel in place, the axle did not fit into the hub.
If the dropouts are flat inside, like ours, then don’t care, of course. 🙂
It is strange, however, that Novatek is different from Xenium. They are from the same barrel, like a chuzen 🙂
I have an assumption that these end washers are from Xenium versions 135×10 and 150×12. the same. Hence the cant.
And “tables” by the way is a very convenient thing (when the axis climbs essno :)). I have crumpled on the fox such, calmly put the wheel down, passed the axle. Lafa.
IMHO, this is already redundant. 6 industrial bearings, a pound of weight. Take, then, just Novatek 662 for sale under 10mm axle, or Xenium. And the axis to them, respectively, to choose from. either on nuts, or eccentric 10mm, or DT RWS. It is also quite durable.
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Shimano 12-Star Hubs & Cassettes
Cassette bushings for 12 stars have their own difference. These bushings have a special Micro Spline drum that has a special tooth profile. The specialties of such a drum are:
- Specially developed drum hook technology
- The diameter of the drum has been reduced, which made it possible to reduce the minimum cassette star from 11 to 10T
- Reduced free travel to the hitch
- Reducing noise when the drum is spinning freely
- Improved drum spline profile for increased traction and longer drum life compared to HG drums
The first series to use such drums was the XTR series. At the moment, several series already have 12-speed transmissions in their arsenal, namely: XTR M9100 DEORE XT M8100 SLX M7100 DEORE M6100 and hence matching hubs with drums with Mirco Spline technology
Also, the Shimano brand has in its catalog several more hubs with a Mirco Spline drum. series MT400 and MT500 Here it is important to say that they were made in order to be able to install 12-speed transmissions on budget bicycles with an eccentric mount with a width of 135 and 141 mm dropouts. And although the drum itself has slots for 12-speed cassettes, the internal grafting design is HG-standard, which does not make them less reliable, but more affordable in price.
Rear hub selection
There are several important considerations when choosing a rear hub:
Notice how the rear sprockets are attached. If your bike has 6-7 sprockets behind, as a rule, they are threaded, which means that we should choose hubs with a threaded mount. Typically found on entry-level bicycles, but there are exceptions. If you have 8-11 stars. such stars are attached to a spline drum. on Shimano hubs this is HG standard. it is more reliable and modern. We also take into account the number of stars. Not all spline hubs are designed for a 10 or 11 star cassette. Some bushings have drums for 9 or 10 stars, respectively, to install the cassette for 11. you need another bushing.
Important features and differences of bicycle hubs
Before you make your choice. several parameters need to be clarified, which do not depend on whether it is a front or rear hub.
Whether it’s a road bike or cross-country bike, any manufacturer will offer you many options. The difference will be in the basic design and the tasks that the bushing must handle.
Bushings for MTB or gravel bicycles must be more durable, withstand shock and constant vibration, while road bike hubs must have minimum rolling resistance.
Another hub options are those for regular city bikes. They can be planetary. with internal speed system, or single speed. and of course with or without a pedal brake. At the manufacturer Shimano for road bikes in the budget segment, the series 105. Value for money with excellent roll-off. While for XC bikes, the same manufacturer in the series Deore. bushings of this series will serve for a rather long time, and their maintenance will not be so expensive, because you can choose all the necessary spare parts in our section Bushings and components
This parameter is very important for us, especially if we already have a rim. Also recently, bushings for straight spokes began to appear on the bicycle parts market more and more often. for such bushings it will be necessary to select special knitting needles.
It is very important to correctly calculate the length of the needles. Calculate according to your rim and bushing dimensions. For the calculation, it is best to use a spoke calculator, for example this one: Sapim Calculator
Mount type and axle diameter.
Compare with the old hub or check your frame and fork specifications. The correct axle diameter is very important. Different frames and forks have different mountings. it can be bolts, nuts, quick fastening with an eccentric or an axle. Entry-level kids, teens, city or mountain bikes usually have eccentric mounts or nuts. Top-tier bikes usually use eccentric or axle mounts. This type of fastening is much more reliable and increases the rigidity of the structure. Planetary hubs and single speed hubs generally have a 10 mm axle diameter. Another important factor of platerate hubs is the need for special mounting components for different types of bike dropouts.
Consider this parameter as well. While for rim brakes the sleeve does not require additional fasteners. bushings under disc brakes must have a special mount. Well, do not forget, even in road bicycles, rear hubs with a foot brake are often used. You should also take into account the fact that there are two types of rotor mounts: 6-bolt rotor bushings Center Lock rotor hubs
Depending on the type of bearing, the bushings will have different properties. Industrial bearing bushings. are stronger, more durable and do not require frequent maintenance, but the price of such bushings is much higher. Ball hubs are more suitable for road bikes. These bushings withstand lateral loads better and have less rolling resistance.
Relatively resistant to moisture and dirt. it has always been believed that bushings on industrial bearings are more protected. However, Shimano has developed its own system of protection against dirt and moisture, as a result, it allowed them to manufacture all hubs on balls, significantly reduce their rolling resistance, however, this does not affect their durability. We received reliable bushings with excellent performance. With the minuses, only the need for periodic service can be noted. although this cannot be called a disadvantage, because any mechanism needs to be serviced for excellent work.
Sleeve width. also an important parameter.
It will be very disappointing if, after long agony of choosing, the hub simply does not fit into the frame or fork feathers. Therefore, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the documentation of the bicycle manufacturer before choosing a hub, or take control measurements of the old hub. Front hubs are typically 100, 108 or 110mm wide. Rear hubs have slightly more widths, usually 135, 142, 148 and 150mm wide boost hubs. It’s not so much even about marketing, but about the technologies that are developing. Older bikes have 135mm hubs, while modern ones use 142 or 148mm hubs. And on bicycles such as downhill or enduro, you can often find bushings with a boost of up to 150 mm. this improves wheel stiffness, which is certainly an important criterion for these bikes. Planetary hubs and single speed hubs have their own dimensions, usually 185mm.
The difference between bicycle hubs
Let’s try to find out together what are the main features to consider when choosing bicycle hubs.
Having determined all these parameters, you can safely start choosing a new part for your favorite bike.
We hope this article was helpful to you.
Go to bushing catalog Front hubs here Rear hubs here
How to Choose the Best Hubs for your Road Bike
The wheel rests on the bike due to the fact that the axial ends of the bicycle sleeve are inserted into the holes of the frame feathers and subsequently secured. The following mounting options are most common:
- eccentric, which do not require additional tools for mounting and dismounting the wheel;
- wrenches at the rate of 2 nuts per bushing, the cheapest type of bicycle bushings for installing and removing wheels in this case requires a wrench.
As for mountain bikes, in addition to ordinary bicycle bikes, they also use disc bikes, designed for the subsequent installation of a disc brake rotor. There are currently 2 main rotor mount standards: Shimano Center Lock splined with a snap ring and ISO 6 bolt mount. High-quality mtb bikes in the high and medium price segment are often equipped with bicycle sleeves with double contact or labyrinth seals for minimal resistance to wheel rotation. But. The disadvantage of this seal option is the reduced dirt and water resistance.
Bicycle hub selection criteria
Today, the bicycle parts market offers us a huge selection of hubs. Let’s dwell in more detail on each of the criteria for choosing a bushing.
Shimano is rightfully considered the world leader in mid-range bicycle hubs. The main difference between the products of this company are thrust radial rolling bearings and the option of adjusting the bicycle sleeves during wear and maintainability, which is available thanks to them. The hallmark of Shimano bicycle hubs is the non-standard method of flangeless spokes. According to most cyclists, Deore LX has the best value for money in the range of this brand. A more budget option for those wishing to save money would be the Alivio. The rear hub on this model can be purchased for 15. e., and the front one. for 10 cu. e.
Superstar Components. Understanding Rear Hub Axle Sizes
The bike hubs of the Taiwanese company Novatec also deserve attention of cyclists. As a newcomer to the bicycle parts market, this brand, meanwhile, is confidently gaining prestige due to its affordable price and decent product quality. This brand produces bicycle socks, various in terms of design and functionality. In the high-end segment, expensive sports bike hubs are made by companies such as Chris King, Hope, DT Swiss and Tune.
Location on the bike
Eccentric locking front hub.
The front wheel of the bike has a front hub. It has the simplest design. This is due to the fact that the part has only one function. the rotation of the wheel. On a regular bicycle, the front hub has a cylindrical body. On the flanges located at its ends, there are holes into which the knitting needles are inserted. The bushing housing contains bearing assemblies and an axle.
Unlike the front, the rear hub, which is located on the rear wheel, is more complex. This is due to the fact that, in addition to the rotation function, it acts as a base for a ratchet or cassette. In multi-speed bikes, in addition to the obsolete threaded bushings, in which the ratchet and ratchet are screwed onto the hub, improved drum types are commonly used. In this type of parts, the ratchet mechanism is an integral part of the bicycle sleeve, while the cassette is essentially just a set of stars.
Bicycle hubs are supplied with 2 types of bearings. In the first case, these are bulk bearings. They have the shape of a cone fixed to the wheel axle and a metal cup that fits into the hub body. Bearings roll between.
The components of the second version of the industrial bearing are the inner and outer race, balls, cage and boot. There are 2 such bearings for each bushing. The boot is tightly covered by the bearings, so the bushing does not need frequent maintenance. And the perfection of the design ensures ease of installation and replacement of parts. The last version of the bicycle sleeve is more versatile. It will suit almost any riding scenario. Perhaps its only drawback is its high cost. However, it is fully justified by the high quality and performance.
Bicycle hub device
The bicycle sleeve is the main part of a bicycle wheel. Its axle is clamped on the fork dropouts or frame. The spokes extend from it, connecting it to the wheel rim. Due to the bearings, the hub and the wheel rotate.
Number of spokes
There is a direct relationship between the number of spokes in the hub and the reliability of the wheel, as well as its weight. On the bicycle parts market today you can find bushings for the number of spokes from 12 to 48. The most popular among experienced cyclists are models for 32 and 36 spokes.
Bushings are made from aluminum and steel. Aluminum are more expensive due to their light weight and corrosion resistance. Their reliability is also influenced by the manufacturing method: stamped and cast bushings with a flawlessly even surface are stronger than chiseled ones. At the same time, steel parts are more affordable, but prone to corrosion. In addition, they carry an impressive weight.