If the device is unpacked and assembled, the method for adjusting the brakes has been completed, the algorithm on how to switch speeds on a Stealth bike is clear. you can ride. When moving, it is worth choosing the gear ratio correctly, excluding chain distortions:
- Big star. Used when driving from slopes and no wind. Cooperates with rear set 5, 6, 7.
- Medium asterisk. It is used when starting, moving along a flat road and a well-groomed intersection. Interacts with the rear block 3,4,5.
- Small star. It is used when skiing on slopes, rough rough terrain, wetlands, viscous mud, sand, thick grass. Spins optimally with rear sprockets 1 to 3.
Cycling Literacy: How to Shift Gears on a 21-Gear Stealth Bike
A typical city bike has one sprocket at the front and one at the back. One gear is not enough to comfortably ride over any terrain and maintain the correct cadence. These disadvantages are eliminated by the multi-speed transmission, which is equipped with modern mountain and road specimens. Correctly selected gear ratio allows you to pass swampy, sandy and other areas of increased complexity, which are beyond the power of a single-speed bike.
Building a skill: how to shift gears correctly using the example of a 21-gear Stealth bike
- Optimum crank speed ensures joint integrity.
- Acceptable cadence is the key to effective muscle work.
- Exemplary speed preserves plant life of components.
You can learn and learn how to shift gears correctly on a mountain bike only after mastering its high-speed design. So, on any Stels Navigator model the following are installed:
- 3 stars on the front and 7 stars on the back.
- Handlebar shifters.
- Rear and front derailleurs, which are regular metal frames attached to the frame.
- 2 cables connecting the steering gears and frame spreaders.
The process of regulating the position of the chain between the stars with the help of frames is called switching. It is carried out by working with shifters. The latter are of two types: trigger (with levers) and pin (rotate). They are installed on the steering wheel in two copies:
- The left one is responsible for the operation of the front transmission.
- The right one moves the rear chain spreader.
On the shifters, there are numbers showing the number of the current star. The stars are numbered from left to right. The shifting process itself consists in pressing or rotating the levers. When pressed (trigger shifters):
- Upper Left Stick. Resets to smaller chainring in 3-1 sequence.
- Lower Left Arm. Folds over to the large front sprocket (1-3).
- Upper Right Handle. Throws to parts with fewer teeth located at the back (1-7).
- Lower right lever. moves the rear frame towards the large stars (7-1).
We consolidate knowledge or how to change gears correctly on any mountain bike without harm to humans and equipment
Awareness of the gearshift mechanism is not sufficient to operate a bike confidently and safely. It is also worth familiarizing yourself with the tips on this matter:
- The chain can only be thrown while moving. If the position of the frames was changed on a stationary bike, you need to turn the pedals at idle speed (raise the rear wheel).
- Use the transmission only with an unloaded chain. In other words, move the links of the chain drive only when the connecting rods rotate quickly, but not at the start or under load. This is fraught with the fact that the actuators can break and the chain break. And indeed, with a lot of effort on the pedals, there is a great risk of not switching at all when the corresponding command is given.
- Do not transfer to several stars at once. It only takes one click to change the position of the frames. In this case, the clarity of the transmission is ensured.
For your information. The chain must be washed with, say, a high pressure washer and lubricated. If it slips on the cassette, it must be changed along with the rear sprockets.
Another important aspect is to select the transmission speed so that pedaling is easy. The optimal cadence verified by cyclists is 80-90 rpm. To measure it, you can use bike computers, for example, CatEye Strada Cadence. Be sure to drink during pokatushek. These two rules will save your knee joints.
CHOOSING THE SPEED SWITCH ON THE BIKE: SHIMANA OR SRAM?
Actually, it never occurred to me to write such an article initially, however, recent events simply leave no choice, and it rains outside, so you can sit on the couch at home, drink beer, surf the forums but let’s start from the very beginning.
It was decided to dismantle the rear transmission SHIMANO SLX 9speed (shifters, rear derailleur, chains, cassette) and purchase a 10-speed XT transmission. cassette 11-36, coins, derailleur The main reason for changing the transmission was the desire to change the 36 rear sprocket, and somehow it became boring, but, as they say, when your life stops bubbling, you need to change either the razor or the woman. Having carefully examined all the pros and cons, a decision was made to measure the transmission, because both the razor and the woman suited me. )))
In general, the updated transmission was glued together by the fins. the cock broke (at the same time, having fulfilled its function. preserving the frame dropout), but the rear derailleur ground and the frame turned out, so that the alignment of the rollers in the derailleur foot was disrupted and, to top it all off, the parallelogram of the frame floated. In short, the death of a career at its very rise In the photo. life in the switch is slowly fading away, and the pulse has not died down yet:
In general, it was necessary to replace the switch, but the initial slackness inherent in the XT switches from the box jarred the brains, I did not want SLH either, due to the fact that it uses a huge amount of iron casting, while the wife looked askance at the XTP and she said that she would knock out a relative from the house only in contacts, and the XTR switch would stick out of the house…. Simply put, it was necessary to come up with a solution.
Here I read an excellent thread about the discussion of the decimal place, the essence of which was that our friend from Melitopol. Valera (XTR-ych). measured the cable samples for various rear transmission systems, and for this he thanks a lot, because the person did not regret your free time, and that is it, friends, is the only human resource that cannot be returned thank you.
Here’s what we learned from this thread:
These numbers need to be kept in mind, we will come back to them later
Now let’s forget about the speeds and pay a little attention to backlash in the rear derailleurs and errors in the impulse communication lines with the rear derailleur, in other words, about the errors that accumulate in shirts.
Let’s start with switch play. Anyone who has held the speed switch on a SRAM and SHIMANO bike in their hands knows that SRAM has much stiffer switches. As for the XT-shnyh shifters, they, in general, go straight off the assembly line with backlash (in any case, both of mine in 10 and 9 gears could be called simply disgrace when it comes to backlash issues). Interestingly, SLH has less backlash! I held 2 9-gear models in my hands and both were tighter than the HT.
As for the CRAM, both of the switches I had the good fortune to turn in my hands. the 2010 and 2009 X9s. were solid, all moving joints “collected in a heap” and did not create noise However, the whole point is that, in addition to the splitting and discomfort, in principle, the loofahs of the switches in the parallelogram connections, in the hinge of the chain tension frame and in the hinge of the switch itself do NOT affect the quality parameters!!
What is the reason? Yes, the fact is that the return spring in the switch frame (the one that pulls back the cable at the moment when you drop the reverse gear to a smaller sprocket) collects these backlashes to one side, as if pressing them, and they immediately disappear and are compensated during switch configuration.
How To Choose A Bike (2 Steps)
Now, regarding the error of communication lines, this is more interesting. Backlash in communication lines appears more or less, depending on many parameters. First of all, the backlash is influenced by the build quality of the mowing line of the connection, and, in particular, they depend on the quality of the processing of the shirts along the edges and how perpendicularity of the cuts with respect to the axis of the shirt is maintained. The number of speeds does NOT affect the Backlash of the communication lines.
This means that if we consider the finished line, then at different positions of the handlebars, bends of the shirt, etc., the cable can fluctuate about its position by about 0.5-1 millimeters, depending on how well the line is assembled.
A value of 0.5-1 millimeter, in itself, will not say anything, but now it’s time to remember the described cable samples in SHIMAN and SRAM. Now you can superimpose the amount of line error on different transmission types and see what percentage of the line error (noise) can be in relation to the signal value (cable length in one gear). Let’s take the average error value of 0.75 millimeters:
- 1.9-speed CPAM. It takes 3.9 mm of cable for transmission. We observe an error of 0.75 millimeters from the signal level of 3.9 millimeters will be 19%: (100%. ((3.9-0.75) /3.9100%)
- 2.9-speed SHIMAN. It takes 2.4 mm of cable for transmission. We observe an error of 0.75 millimeters from the signal level of 2.4 millimeters is 31%: (100%. ((2.4-0.75) /2.4100%)
- 3.10-speed CPAM. It takes 2.9 mm of cable for transmission. We observe an error of 0.75 millimeters from the signal level of 2.9 millimeters will be 26%: (100%. ((2.9-0.75) /2.9100%)
- 4. 10-speed SHIMAN. It takes 3.5 mm of cable for transmission. We observe an error of 0.75 millimeters from the signal level of 3.5 millimeters will be 21%: (100%. ((3.5-0.75) /3.5100%)
UNDER THE SAME OPERATING CONDITIONS (quality of shifters, quality of a mowing line of communication, backlash, and so on), 9-speed CPAM OBJECTIVELY HAS A MORE CLEAR SWITCHING due to the fact that it has the lowest level of error relative to the signal level (sampling of the cable for transmission). 19%.
Further, according to the quality indicators of switching, the 10-speed SHIMANA follows. 21% of the error, followed by the 10-speed CPAM. 26% of the error and in the last place is the 9-speed SHIMANA with 31% error in relation to the signal level.
That’s it. I think now it has become clear to many why they write that the 9-pin CPAM is less upset, the gears need to be adjusted less often, it is able to work longer with uncleaned dirty shirts and the like And this is all due to the fact that the CPAM pulls in the MOST amount of cable on one gear and, accordingly, the error of the mowing line at the moment of switching becomes less noticeable, and the error affects the quality of switching in the least way.
And the conclusion at number two. the 10-speed SHIMANA pleased me, since the amount of pulled cable per transmission has significantly increased in comparison with the 9-speed transmission. Hence the reduction in noise in relation to the signal. HOORAY. This is the reason why the 10-speed SHIMANA began to work more clearly than the 9-speed model, despite the increase in the number of stars and the decrease in the distance between them.
The perplexed townsfolk shrug their hands and nervously mutter, because, in theory, it should have happened that the transmission would be even worse than a nine-speed one but no. everything is exactly the opposite. you would still learn how to make switches without backlash
IT’S TIME TO MAKE SOME CONCLUSIONS
In the event that you need the clearest transmission and there is NO need for a rear 36-tooth chainring, then the choice is obvious. 9-speed CPAM, which has the maximum amount of cable transmission, minimum noise of the mowing line and no backlash in the active joints of the switches.
If at the word CPAM you get nausea, and this, apparently, is something personal, from which the psychologist cannot relieve you, then the 10-speed SHIMANA will help you. A significant amount of cable per transmission (it outperforms the 10-speed CPAM and 9-speed SHIMANA), a fairly low noise of the mowing line, however, there is play in the switches, but, as mentioned above, the backlashes are eliminated by the spring of the parallelogram of the switch frame, and, in addition to the splitting and unpleasant sensation that you vparili used, no problems arise.
We take the shifters from the 10-speed SHIMAN XT (.), Connect it to the SRAM SWITCH FOR 9 (.) Gears, for example, X9. HOORAY. Now this can be realized, since we already know that 9-speed CPAM pulls 35 mm of cable, and 10-speed SHIMANA pulls 35 mm of cable! Yes, you can crossbreed, and, during the operation, pour all this with beer, so that there is no rejection.
How & When To Change Gear On Your Bike | Beginner Cycling Tips
- 1.Rear shifter. nine-speed CPAM X9 (tested on two samples of 2010 and 2009)
- 2. shifters. 10-speed SHIMANA HT 2011
- 3.cassette. ten-speed SHIMANA XT 11-36 (.)
- 4. chain. SLH 74ya in short, just a ten-star chain
Indeed, the world is going crazy, the clearest 10-speed transmission will be obtained (with other factors being equal) if you use the rear 9-speed CPAM switch and SHIMANO coins for 10 gears. Regarding the issue of chains and cassettes. here it is optional, this post is not discussed.
Why biking speed?
If you only ride on paths in a park or sidewalk, you really don’t need the speed on your bike. But fans of cross-country driving, long journeys with alternating ascents, descents and flat areas, real athletes will appreciate this parameter.
Technically speaking, changing the speed on a bike changes the cadence. Cadence is the cadence and the required pressure on them, achieved by varying the gear ratio between the wheel and the pedals. You need to switch speeds in order to more evenly distribute the energy expended on pedaling.
For example, when you are driving uphill or on uneven terrain, you need to make a lot of effort to pedal, which can lead to arthritis for a long time. Turning on a low speed will make it easier for yourself to pedal, reduce stress on muscles and joints, but the bike will go slower. On a flat track or when descending a mountain, it is necessary to turn on a high speed, then more effort will be required to pedal (compared to models without speeds or other gear), but the two-wheeled horse will become faster, more stable, it will move smoother and more stable. When driving in the city, usually include an average speed.
So, on a bicycle, speeds are needed to ensure an even tension of the chain, to balance the muscular efforts of an athlete when riding on different parts of the path.
How many speeds does a bike have?
On modern bicycles, the number of speeds usually fluctuates between 10 and 30. In this case, there are usually two or three gears. What then is the difference between the 10 and 30 speed models? Let’s start with the fact that the number of bicycle speeds is the result of multiplying the number of front sprockets (there are two or three) by the number of rear sprockets (there are from 5 to 10), auxiliary ones, making gear shifting smoother and more comfortable.
Accordingly, the 15-speed bike has 3 forward gears and 5 rear sprockets, while the 30-speed model has 10 rear sprockets. And the difference is in technological costs and the number of torque variations.
Why does a bike need so many speeds?!
On modern bicycles (especially mountain bicycles), you can rarely find only one speed, as on models produced 20-30 years ago. At first glance, it may seem that the new characteristic is just a trend of fashion or a publicity stunt that absolutely does not affect the quality of skiing. But why, then, are the most experienced and knowledgeable cyclists chasing high speed models and not skimping on it? Let’s figure it out.
Cycling speeds, their importance, proper use and shifting raise a lot of questions for newcomers to the saddle. whether young or two-wheeled horse enthusiasts with twenty years of experience returning to the wheel. In this article we will answer basic questions.
How to properly switch gears on a bike?
Gear shifting is carried out using switches on the steering wheel, which throw the chain over the sprockets of the connecting rod system and the sprockets on the rear wheel hub. The front derailleur should be at medium speed during normal riding, and you must also remember to return it to this position after sections of the track covered at low or high speed. This avoids excessive tension and rapid wear on the chain.
Forward and reverse gears are switched one at a time and at the time of normal pedaling, i.e. to a difficult section of the road, ascent or descent. Changing the speed without pedaling or in the middle of a climb puts a very heavy load on the drivetrain and can cause chain breaks or derailleur breakage. Also, it is not recommended to change gears while the bike is stationary.
When choosing the position of the front and rear derailleurs, avoid variants with a strong chain skew, i.e., for example, maximum on both the front and rear sprockets. The best option at low speed is 4-5 reverse gear, in middle gear. 2-7 (or better. 3-6) gear, at high speed. 5-8 / 9 gear.
Cycling speeds are a very useful and useful thing for all lovers of long bike trips and cross-country riding. With them, you can easily enter any ascent, accelerate as much as possible on descents and flat tracks. Do not neglect this opportunity. buy yourself a bike with several speeds and enjoy life!
Why does a bike need so many speeds? Or how to keep the knees of a novice cyclist
Many novice cyclists, choosing a bike, do not know why they need a lot of speeds. Sometimes, when buying a bike, beginners are guided by the principle: the more speeds, the better.!
However, this is not always the case, and for a beginner bike biker, a large number of speeds is not always justified. When riding a bicycle, it is important to be able to use the speeds correctly, to be able to switch them in time so as not to break the switching mechanisms and not damage the chain. In addition, you need to know how to pedal correctly to keep your knees and legs safe and sound.!
The number of bike speeds determines the type of bike and the way it is ridden. At the moment, there are many different types of bicycles with different numbers of speeds. Each has its own purpose for driving on different tracks and road surfaces.
In modern bicycles, there can be from 6 to 33 speeds. The number of gears depends on the number of leading and driven stars on it.
Sport bikes and MTB bikes can have anywhere from 10 to 33 gears. Expensive mountain bikes can also be equipped with 11 and 12 speeds. In them, the difference between the large and small cassette sprocket is so great that one sprocket in front is quite enough for riders. This is further proof that a small number of speeds. not always bad. City bicycles designed for leisurely cycling within the city are usually equipped with no more than 6-8 speeds.
It is very easy to find out the number of speeds of a bicycle. it is enough to multiply the number of chainrings by the number of rear ones, and we get the desired value. So, for example, if there are 3 stars in front, and behind. 8, then the bike has only 24 speeds. Usually, on advanced sportbikes, cassettes are installed with a minimum number. 10 stars. Newbie bikes are usually equipped with 3 stars at the front and 7-9 stars at the rear.
How to properly switch speeds (gears)
To prevent the chain and gearshift system from becoming unusable ahead of time, it is important for a beginner to learn how to change gears correctly.
While riding a bicycle, I often see a picture: a beginner cyclist climbs a mountain, desperately trying to pedal in high gear, or vice versa rolls down a descent in a low gear, barely having time to rotate them. This type of riding not only leads to early wear of the corresponding body kit, but can also cause injuries and “killing” the knees.
To learn how to switch gears correctly, first of all, you need to know the simple technical rules of driving:
- the small star in front is for climbing, the steeper the climb, the lower the gear should be. First, it’s much easier to pedal this way and your legs don’t get so tired. Secondly, the likelihood of rapid wear and tear of the transmission decreases significantly;
- a large sprocket is needed for driving at high speeds and driving at a uniform speed on descents;
- the middle sprocket (if any) is usually used for leisurely cycling trips without significant acceleration.
Having dealt with the stars, you should remember how to work with the switches:
- the chain must not be skewed when driving. This means that it is necessary to monitor the chain tension evenly. The chainring and chainring combination on which the chain runs must be on a straight line. So, a large chainring works in tandem with a large diameter rear chainring, and a small chainring. with small ones. The same goes for the middle star;
- gears should be shifted only when the pedals are rotating, and you should not press hard on them so that the chain tension at the moment of shifting is not critical;
- you can not switch or click the speeds when idle, i.e. when the bike is stationary. This can lead to damage to the mechanism;
- simultaneous switching of speeds with the right and left derailleur is also undesirable, this can cause the chain to jam;
- it is important to regularly lubricate the chain and make sure that there is no dirt in its mechanism and small objects do not get stuck;
- gears should be shifted smoothly and evenly, alternately shifting from low gears to high gears.
How to keep your knees on bike rides. Cadence
Note that derailleur and chain life and safe cycling depend not only on how well the bike rider uses the mechanism, but also on cadence.
Cadence is a value that characterizes the number of pedal revolutions per unit of time (the minute is taken as a basis).
- the weight of the bike and bike;
- type of pedals;
- riding style;
- pavement quality and slope;
A cadence of 80. 100 rpm is considered normal for the average bike rider. However, it can be difficult for beginners to fit into this norm, so beginners can keep their cadence at 60-70 rpm.
As a general rule, there are three types of cadence:
- Low. when the cadence is low, but a lot of pedaling pressure is needed for normal speed. This type of rotation is unbalanced. The cyclist gets tired quickly and runs the risk of chronic diseases of the joints (knees). In addition, such driving increases the load on the heart.
- High. as you might guess. is the opposite of low, fast pedaling with low efficiency. in other words, spin quickly. and the speed of a turtle. Not as harmful as low cadence, but also unpleasant. you get tired quickly, and the effect is zero. This usually happens when the wrong gear is selected for climbing a slope or on a descent.
- Optimal. Balanced, moderate rotation, in which muscle groups are correctly engaged, the risk of knee and joint damage is minimal, and the body’s energy is expended evenly. As mentioned above, a cadence of 80-100 rpm is considered optimal.
It is important to understand that the choice of the optimal pedaling speed is individual and depends primarily on the personal feelings of the cyclist. If you pedal at a certain speed and feel comfortable at the same time, for a long time there is no pain and fatigue, then this cadence is optimal for you.
Either way, feel free to experiment and try different riding styles. The main thing is not to overload your legs and knees with a low cadence, otherwise. try and you will definitely succeed!
The braking system is the basis of cyclist safety
Modern bikes are equipped with two types of brakes: disc and rim. The discs are significantly superior to the rim (V-brakes) in terms of cost, which directly affects the overall price of the bike. Many manufacturers sacrifice the quality of other components to make disc brakes less expensive. Depending on the priorities of the buyer, this approach may be a disadvantage or advantage of a particular model.
Rim brakes are widely used due to the successful combination of characteristics: low price, excellent efficiency, ease of installation and maintenance. They also boast the following benefits:
low weight of the component, which is of key importance in some sports disciplines;
elementary setup that even a beginner can easily handle without special tools;
Rim brakes are often found on entry to mid-range mountain models like the PRIDE XC-2.0 and PRIDE XC-650. The principle of operation of V-brake is quite simple: the cyclist presses the brake lever located on the handlebar, then a command is transmitted via a special cable to the brake pads, which firmly squeeze the wheel rim, preventing it from further rotation.
Rim brakes have their drawbacks, among which the most significant disadvantage is sensitivity to weather conditions. Braking performance is significantly reduced when mud, water, snow, ice or sand gets on the rim, which is a serious problem for fans of year-round cross-country skiing. V-brakes are also imperfect in other situations:
the slightest curvature of the wheel leads to permanent failures in the operation of the brake system;
some frames are incompatible with rim brakes;
pads and rims wear out quickly, requiring regular repair or replacement;
if the size of the rotor does not match the parameters of the frame, this leads to deformation of the feathers and fasteners.
Due to the above disadvantages, experienced cyclists prefer disc brakes consisting of a steel disc and a caliper. a special device that initiates the actuation of the pads. To transmit force, a cable or hydraulic line is used. In the first case, the brake is considered mechanical (a similar component is installed on CANNONDALE TRAIL 7), in the second. hydraulic (present in the CANNONDALE TRAIL 6 configuration).
Disc systems significantly outperform rim systems in response speed and braking efficiency, providing instant stopping even with a deformed wheel. Disc brakes are snow and sand resistant due to better positioning to prevent quick system contamination. The frequency of their operation has no effect on the degree of wear of the rims, and the brakes themselves are almost maintenance-free.
Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting the increased load on the spokes and the hub, which occurs due to the displacement of the point of application of the force. Setting up disc brakes in the field is nearly impossible as it requires special equipment. The disadvantages also include the high price and significant weight, which can scare away fans of racing disciplines.
Both types of braking systems perform their functions successfully. Looking for a good budget bike with reliable components? You will find your ideal among the V-brake models. Have an unlimited budget and want to get the most out of skiing? Choose bicycles with disc brakes.
The foot brakes, which have an elementary design, are worthy of special mention. If you had a bicycle as a kid, just remember how you had to pedal in the opposite direction to brake. Such a mechanism cannot be called highly efficient, therefore models designed for measured riding are equipped with foot brakes. A good example is the walking SCHWINN CRUISER ONE S1.
Bike and component manufacturers
Equipment, kit or attachment. this is the name of the set of components used to equip the bike. In most cases, the manufacturer makes only the base, that is, the frame, selecting components from other brands for it. First of all, look at the company that made the brakes and gearshift systems. key components of every bike.
Most often, manufacturers of mass models prefer the products of the Japanese brand Shimano. Bicycles from different price categories are equipped with components of this brand, from PRIDE XC-2.0 2015 to CANNONDALE SYNAPSE CARBON TIAGRA. The company’s products are collected in several collections, the difference between which lies in the level of processing, build quality and alloy purity, which directly affects the cost of the part and the overall price of the bike. In most cases, components from different Shimano collections are combined with each other, which allows you to freely convert the bike at the VeloGo workshop or on your own.
Advanced models for sophisticated cyclists are often equipped with highly specialized brands (Wellgo, Neco, Cionlli) that make only certain types of components. Choosing a model with such a complete set, get ready to pay extra for improved performance.
Hardtail, rigid, full suspension
The presence / absence and location of the shock absorber determines the resistance of the bicycle to vibration and shock loads occurring during movement, as well as the ability to overcome various obstacles. The type of model depends on the characteristics of this component: rigid, hardtail or full suspension.
Rigid forks are most commonly found on road, stunt and city bikes (e.g. CANNONDALE BAD BOY). The damping properties of such models are minimal, for which rigid forks are called rigid.
Soft suspension forks are a must for mountain and hybrid bikes. Bikes equipped with only front shock absorbers are known as hardtails. This name comes from the English hard tail. hard tail. An example of a similar model. PRIDE XC-650 PRO.
Bicycles equipped with front and rear suspension are popular with fans of extreme disciplines. American CANNONDALE HABIT and other models of this type represent the category of double suspension.
In the photo. trick PRIDE SABOTAGE 2016 for turf, made in a bright raspberry shade. Unique offer from a Ukrainian manufacturer.
Key frame features
Modern bike brands make frames from Hi-Ten steel, aluminum alloy, or carbon. The first option is distinguished by its high weight and low cost, due to which it is usually found among budget class city bikes (a typical representative is SCHWINN RACER).
Special aluminum alloy is the most common material. Lightweight reliable frames of various rigidity are obtained from aluminum. Many major brands are developing unique production technologies designed to lighten and strengthen pipe walls as much as possible. A good example of using our own developments is CANNONDALE TRAIL 8 with double seam polishing and SAVE technology.
Carbon fiber (carbon) cannot be called a cheap material, but it boasts a minimum weight and high resistance to an evenly distributed load. Carbon frames are afraid of pinpoint impacts, so they are usually chosen by fans of racing disciplines. Due to its amazing lightness, which provides excellent handling, carbon fiber is respected by lovers of skating on the ground. Especially for them, CANNONDALE has developed an advanced F-SI Carbon.
The design of the frame matters if the future owner of the bike is a girl who prefers to ride in a skirt or dress. The lowered top tube will make such walks as comfortable as possible, and the bright design will improve the mood. Among the women’s bikes, the PRIDE CLASSIC is worth highlighting with a shock-absorbing seat post for increased comfort.
In the photo. a stylish women’s bicycle Schwinn FIESTA 2016 from a well-known manufacturer. Striking design and ergonomics make it an attractive option for riders who value their comfort.
First Steps to Buying the Perfect Bike
When choosing a bike, size is considered the key parameter. This characteristic determines the level of comfort of the cyclist without affecting the cost of the product. To find out the optimal frame size for your height, consult with VeloGO specialists or determine it yourself.
In the photo. bike PRIDE XC-650 V-br 2016 from the Ukrainian manufacturer PRIDE.
The frame is usually measured at two points: the end of the seat tube and the carriage axis. Most manufacturers indicate this parameter in inches, but German brands prefer to measure it in centimeters. Determining the appropriate size is quite simple, you just need to know the characteristics of the bike and the growth of the future owner:
frame 14” (35.4 cm) is designed for young cyclists with a height of 135-155 centimeters;
eighteen” (45.7) corresponds to 165-178 centimeters;
twenty” (50.8) Designed for cyclists 175-185 cm tall;
riders whose height exceeds 190-210 centimeters are recommended frame 24” (60.8).
The second stage is to decide on the model. To find the right type of bike among the existing variety, evaluate your riding style and imagine an average route. This will significantly narrow the range of preferred models, abandoning the road bike due to low passability on the ground or MTB due to poor roll-off on asphalt. A clear understanding of the purpose of the purchase will save a considerable amount, because why overpay for an additional rear shock absorber if only walks on asphalt roads are planned? Novice cyclists should also abandon high-tech components, whose potential will simply not be revealed, and the abundance of functions will create unnecessary difficulties when tuning the bike. Having determined the terrain along the route of the walk, you can easily select a bike of the appropriate type.
In the photo. Schwinn SPEEDSTER 2016. made in a laconic design.
MTB bikes allow you to effortlessly overcome any obstacle, providing a satisfactory roll-off on flat road surfaces, which is why they are considered versatile. Modern mountain bike manufacturers are producing mountain bikes in all price categories, including specialized models for downhill and extreme cross-country racing. A good example of an advanced MTB bike is the American CANNONDALE TRAIL 6, equipped with hydraulic disc brakes.
The main disadvantage of mountain bikes is that they are far from ideal rolling on the asphalt. Bikes of this type are not suitable for measured city walks, as they are designed for non-aggressive riding on the ground, short bike trips and periodic outings in nature.
Prefer long trips outside the city? We recommend purchasing a reliable hybrid (cross) (for example, PRIDE CROSS 2.0), equipped with thick tires. Touring bikes are inferior to mountain bikes in terms of handling on the ground, but hybrid bikes are unmatched for long hikes.
A separate category of endurance bikes is designed for extreme disciplines. Stunt bikes are similar in size to teenage bikes, but differ significantly in design and equipment. Special bicycles for stunts are produced by many manufacturers, including the young Ukrainian brand PRIDE, which presented a turtle SABOTAGE in the color of ripe raspberries.
In the photo. the road bike from the popular brand HAIBIKE RACE 8.10 28 “2016 is designed for experienced cyclists, therefore it includes advanced components.
Do you dream of good acceleration, preferring to ride on asphalt roads with high-quality surfaces? The road bike will give you the pure pleasure of driving at high speed. A bike like the CANNONDALE CAAD8 SORA has all the benefits a rider needs, including superb aerodynamics, narrow, high pressure rolling tires, a specially designed handlebar (called a ram), a low ride and a rigid frame. It is not customary to equip light, fast road bikes with shock absorbers that significantly reduce road speed, so such bikes are almost useless on rough terrain.
Fans of measured cycling along city streets do not need special shock-absorbing and aerodynamic properties. The best option for leisurely riding are simple city bikes equipped with PRIDE COMFORT 3. Distinctive features of a road bike: a comfortable anatomical saddle, foot or rim brake, wheels with a diameter of 28 inches, an abundance of various accessories. Every component of the city bike is focused on providing maximum rider comfort, not impressive speed or high flotation. Thanks to the simplest configuration, city bicycles can boast of an affordable price, almost do not need tuning and regular maintenance. The exception is cruisers. luxury models with an increased level of comfort. An example is the stylish ELECTRA STRAIGHT 8 3I BIKE
Pictured is a hybrid PRIDE CROSS 1.0 2016. fast and easy to drive. Includes 63mm suspension fork.
How to choose a bike
A bicycle is significantly inferior to a car in terms of design complexity, but its acquisition should be approached no less responsibly. When choosing a bike, you should focus on the purchase budget and the needs of the future owner. To understand which bike to choose, first of all decide on the purpose of riding. The type of two-wheeled vehicle suitable for you depends on what terrain and under what conditions you plan to drive. Below are the main types of bicycles, their key characteristics and tips for choosing the best one.
Basic rules for shifting gears on a bicycle
Most modern bikes. apart from road singlespeeds designed for park riding, of course. have multiple speeds. Novice riders and some experienced cyclists are very frivolous about throwing a chain between the gears, considering that this is not a special science. In fact, shifting gears incorrectly not only affects ride efficiency, but more importantly, accelerates chain wear. How to properly shift gears on a bicycle so that the ride is comfortable and the life of the bike is long and without breakdowns?
It is especially important to switch gears correctly on rough terrain. Only in this case will you be able to use the bike’s resources at full capacity, while spending a minimum of effort.
Choosing the right combination
In order for the chain, like other parts of the transmission to serve as long as possible, it is highly desirable that the chain does not warp. Skew occurs when you select a large chainring and a large rear chainring. The front derailleur frames and the chain should be as parallel as possible. this is one of the main rules for shifting speeds on a bicycle. When driving on a flat road, choose a combination of a large chainring and a fourth to eighth rear chainring. If you need more load, or the terrain has become slightly rough, your choice is the middle front gear and the third through sixth rear gears. Climbing uphill will be as comfortable as possible with the small chainring and the first to third rear sprockets. When riding up, it is better to switch only between the rear sprockets.
In fact, how to select the correct gear on a bike depends on many more factors, from weather conditions to tire pressure and, of course, the level of cyclist fatigue. But this experience only comes with time. It is better to start rolling with low gears to warm up the muscles. Large gears and low driving speeds are bad for joints. Too high a cadence will quickly cause fatigue. If the switches stop working or the circuit jumps over the stars, this means that the system needs to be configured by a specialist.
The main rules for switching speeds on a bicycle:
- To avoid breaking the chain and damaging the switches, only change the speed while driving.
- Switch sequentially, do not jump over several speeds at once. First, wait for the clear work of the previous transmission.
- If you have to go uphill, switch a little ahead of time, not during the climb itself. Changing the speed right in the middle of the hill will lead to a loss of pedaling rhythm, and the chain is under serious stress at this time.
- The same rule for changing the speed on a bicycle applies before descending. When driving downhill at high speed, it is better to follow the road and control the brakes.
- Any change in the ground. mud, sand, difficult ground, grass. loads the chain, you cannot switch speeds at this time.
- When planning to change speeds, make sure there is a reserve of speed and do not pedal too hard when shifting.
And the last rule of competent gear shifting on a bicycle is that the chain throwing should be smooth, and the process itself should occur without unnecessary sounds. If you hear grinding, knocking, metal scratching, then it’s time to examine the entire system and make sure that the chain is not stretched and does not need to be replaced. The clarity of gear shifting will depend on the serviceability of the mechanisms, the absence of contamination, and the correct setting of all mechanisms. And if everything is in order with this, then over time, you will learn to choose the optimal speed almost intuitively, switch smoothly and as quickly as possible.
Clean, uncluttered speed is one of the ingredients that make cycling especially fun and exciting. There is no iron box of the car around, the pilot is open to all winds and elements, under him there is only a weightless bicycle. Speed in such conditions is felt especially sharply. What speed can a bicycle develop??
If we talk about absolute records, then the highest speed on a bicycle is an incredible 268 km / h. This result was achieved while driving on the salt plain behind a racing car with a special fairing. Of course, the bike was also special, and it was impossible to ride it under normal conditions. When driving without aids, the highest speeds are shown by velomobiles with ultra-light streamlined bodies. Speed record in a single ride on a velomobile. 105 km / h at a distance of 200 m on the move. When starting from a standstill in an hour’s race, the speed record also belongs to the velomobile and is 75 km / h. But in terms of speed of descent from the mountain, the mountain bike is in the lead. The figure is a fantastic 210 km / h.
Records are good, they inspire and make you look at familiar things in a new way. However, the average cyclist is no less, and sometimes even more interesting, to know how fast you can ride a bike on normal roads, and how long to maintain it.
Earlier, some fifteen or twenty years ago, heavy and uncomfortable mechanical speedometers were used to measure speed, showing only the current speed and the total mileage of the bicycle. Today these are miniature devices, bicycle computers, which are orders of magnitude more convenient and display a lot of useful information. Dozens of features ranging from any cyclist’s riding parameters to altitude, heart rate readings and even satellite navigation.
The average person who sometimes gets out on a bike ride in most cases overestimates the speed with which he travels on the bike. Seeing the readings of 25-30 km / h on the computer, it seems that this speed will be maintained for a long time. In practice, the real average speed on an asphalt road in three to four hours can barely reach 20 km / h. Of course, this parameter will also depend on the type and level of the bike. On low-quality or small folding bicycles, these numbers will be unattainable. The more trained cyclist, who travels several thousand kilometers a year, will be noticeably faster. He has better physical condition, better riding technique, higher efficiency and, as a rule, a better bike. Such people can travel at an average speed of about 25 km / h at distances of up to 100 km, and sometimes even more. Amateur athletes, serious marathon runners are a group of people with completely different physical and technical capabilities. They can maintain an average speed of 30-35 km / h on the highway for many hours. At the same time, the current speed in some sections can reach 40 km / h. When riding in a group, these indicators significantly increase. Professional athletes in a group race can drive at an average speed of over 50 km / h, and the speed on the slopes can exceed a hundred! The strongest professionals alone can maintain an average speed of 50 km / h. This is the speed record set in an hour-long track race on a classic bike. Rough terrain, depending on the nature, significantly reduces the average speed. On the hardest mountain trails, even for trained cyclists, the average speed can be in the region of 15 km / h. And this despite the fact that they ride ultralight professional bicycles, and their level of technical proficiency is very high. On the other hand, an ordinary person would not be able to ride a bicycle at all in such conditions, and his average walking speed would be 1-2 km / h.
How can I increase my speed? First of all, exercise. Only regular training will allow you to ride better and faster. It is also important to purchase a quality bike suitable for the intended use and riding style. Then training will become more effective and enjoyable. It’s more interesting to ride a good bike! Move. and may Speed be with you!
What is it and what is it used for
A bicycle speedometer is a measuring device that determines your travel speed and distance traveled. This information is useful for many cyclists, especially for athletes.
Movement speed indicators allow you to determine the average value, calculate the calories burned and timely learn about the changes that occur in the body.
The bicycle meter provides a person with the opportunity to improve the physical abilities of his body, evenly increase the load on the muscles and perfect the basic indicators.
Almost every speedometer has its own installation rules, but in general, all practical guides are similar.
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In addition, each manufacturer provides instructions that make the job easier.
The most difficult thing is to install a bicycle computer, therefore we took this process as a basis. using its example, we will consider the main stages of such work.
You need to start with the installation of the mounting platform. It looks like a panel with two contacts. This part is fastened with a lock. Different locations can be selected for the installation of the mounting plate:
- the edge of the grip is usually chosen by avid gadget fans; with this arrangement, the user receives a lot of advantages;
- the center of the handlebar is the most common choice for most cyclists;
- bicycle handlebar stem is more suitable for large devices.
To fix the mounting pad, bundles are used, which must be strongly tightened and reinforced with substrates.
Mounting the magnet and sensor requires the location of these parts at a distance of at least 8 cm from the wheel axis. This work requires caution. To fix the sensor, harnesses are also used, and the reed switch must be placed perpendicular to the axis of the magnet. The magnet itself is attached to the spoke, near the reed switch (the distance cannot be more than 2 mm). The magnet must also be tightened.
Wire placement is the tricky and most time-consuming process. You can use one of two methods here:
- if you place the wire along the brake cable, then ordinary electrical tape is used to fix it;
- when laying the cable along the steering column, it is necessary to use harnesses, and in the area of the frame, make a lap.
Varieties and their features
The mechanical device is becoming less popular, but still it still finds its consumer. Usually such models are installed on road type bicycles. For mountain sports, mechanics is contraindicated, since it quickly fails due to dirt and sand that gets on the device. These speedometers consist of only three parts:
- drive wheel.
It is important to install the pointer speedometer correctly so that there is close contact between the tire and the wheel. The mechanic has a number of disadvantages that lead to a decrease in its popularity:
- impossibility of functioning with deformed wheels;
- inability to save information for its further analysis;
- in case of incorrect installation, constant braking is observed;
- vulnerability to pollution;
- the need for periodic lubrication.
Positive aspects are also typical for such devices:
- high reliability;
- affordable cost;
- autonomous operation, which does not require the use of third-party power supplies.
The electronic speedometer is the choice of many cyclists. Its design is more complex than that of mechanical models, it consists of the following parts:
- the main unit is mounted on the steering gear;
- the cadence sensor is fixed to the connecting rod;
- high-speed is located on the frame;
- the wheel sensor is attached to the fork.
Electronic speedometers differ in the number of functions, which is a determining factor in the formation of value. The basic set of functions includes the definition of the following indicators:
- current time;
- the duration of the trip;
- speed (current, average, maximum possible);
Electronic models are becoming more affordable than many cyclists are using. They are easy to install and easy to use, so they are great for novice users. Disadvantages are also present here:
- limited number of functions;
- high degree of wire wear;
- reliable fixation is required for stable operation;
- the need for periodic replacement of power supplies.
The wireless cycling computer is the state-of-the-art technology used by avowed cyclists. A radio channel is used to transmit a signal. this is the main feature of such devices. Batteries or built-in rechargeable batteries can be used as batteries, but such models are much more expensive.
Wireless cycling computers are not afraid of dirt, therefore they are ideal for extreme sportsmen, athletes, travelers.
Such devices have a wide range of advantages:
- determination of three indicators of speed;
- built-in clock, stopwatch;
- high level of moisture protection;
- synchronization with a computer;
- altimeter and cadence;
- determination of the pulse;
- calculation of the lap time;
- high strength, reliability and durability;
- saving information about previous workouts;
- no need for lubrication.
Wireless cycling computers are not ideal, they also have disadvantages:
- the need to replace batteries;
- the presence of GPS is typical only for expensive models;
- electromagnetic interference (ignition coil, telephone, power line mowing line) may interfere with the normal operation of the measuring device;
- high cost compared to other types of devices.
You cannot buy the first speedometer that comes across, which you liked by its appearance or attractive price.
It is important to choose the best device that will exactly match the user’s needs and operating conditions.
Our rules will help you make the right choice, which you will not have to regret in the future.
- You need to think carefully about the set of desired features. It makes no sense to overpay for options that are not useful. At the same time, it is convenient when everything you need is in one device.
- Sporty travel, high-speed mode, driving in difficult conditions. all this requires the choice of an advanced model with excellent reliability and wide functionality.
- Bicycle speedometers must have a robust housing with high protection against moisture.
- The backlight must be present in models that will be used at night.
- The external interface should be user-friendly. This indicator is chosen in accordance with the personal preferences of each.
Bicycle speedometers: what are they, how to choose and install?
Cycling is actively developing, and the popularity of bicycles is growing so rapidly that the thought creeps in: cars are about to fade into the background. A huge number of useful gadgets are created for cyclists, among which the speedometer is in the first place.
Many manufacturers are engaged in the production of bicycle speedometers. Which company to choose and which model to choose are eternal questions for cyclists. Our review will help you understand the existing range.
- Among all the manufacturers that produce bicycle speedometers, Sigma is in the first place. No one will undertake to argue with this. The assortment is divided into several categories, which are designed for different levels of the user, his requirements and financial capabilities. These gadgets are created in Germany, which already determines their high quality. The cost is appropriate, but these devices will serve flawlessly for many years.
- Garmin is not inferior to the previous manufacturer, offering cyclists quality and versatile devices. Such devices are produced in America, they are expensive, but they serve almost forever. The assortment is so rich that it will not be difficult to choose the right model for a bicycle with alloy wheels.
Ciclo is another worthy manufacturer based in Germany. Despite the high quality, excellent reliability and wide functionality, the company offers many affordable models. Ciclo bike speedometers are becoming the choice of many users at different levels.
- Although you need to be wary of Chinese manufacturers, you can also find decent brands here. For example, the products from the LIXADA company have proven themselves on the positive side. A wide range of devices are presented for every taste and financial capabilities. For 900 rubles, you can pick up a decent speedometer with backlight, calorie counter, high moisture protection and other useful functions.
For information on what cycling computers are and how to choose them, see the next video.