Possible causes of puncture
According to statistics, a cyclist has to change the camera every two to three seasons on average. And some lucky ones will have to replace this part with a bicycle several times a season.
When getting on the bike, the rider should be prepared for minor faults and possible repairs. A punctured bicycle camera is the most common and the least laborious of them. after all, having certain knowledge, it can be changed quite simply. The most common circumstances in which a camera can be damaged are:
- Hitting a nail or glass;
- Aggressive off-road driving style;
- Installation of low-quality tires on the bike;
- Significant tire wear.
Installing new tires
1. We put on new tires on one “edge” of the wheel, so that we have a free for inserting the camera.
2. We take a new chamber (deflated) and, starting with the nipple, lay it along the rim.
3. While the camera is NOT closed yet, pump it up a little to make sure it is laid flat and not distorted anywhere. If the camera is kinked or twisted during the installation process, it will most likely burst as soon as you get on the bike. Agree, you don’t need such unnecessary frustrations, because these are NOT only Spoiled plans, but also additional financial costs.
4. Now you need to “tuck” the tires into the rim. In the first steps, this is done manually, but at the end, editing will be required again. You can do it with one, but it’s better to use two. Use it to pull the tires slightly towards you so that it fits easily into the rim. You can push the tires a little inward with the assembly so that it is better fixed. The main thing is that the mounting depth is the same throughout the entire circle.
5. After the wheel is closed, pump the chamber to the desired state. Usually, the correct pressure is indicated on the tires, check it to properly adjust your pump.
6. Now screw the cap onto the nipple to fix the condition of the wheel.
7. It remains to install the wheel in place and that’s it. Now your bike is back on the move! Do a small circle on it at low speed to make sure everything is secured correctly and you feel comfortable. If necessary, pump up the chamber of the second wheel so that they are equally elastic. Many cyclists experience minor riding discomfort after replacing one camera. If everything is ok, you can go on the road. Suddenly what happens, you already know how to change the tire and you can do it even in field conditions.
Which nipple to choose for a bicycle camera?
Through the one-way valve of the nipple, air is pumped into the chamber, it also keeps the air in the chamber.
There are 3 kinds of nipples that can be applied to the bicycle camera:
- Sports Presta;
- Bicycle Dunlop;
- Car Shrader.
The oldest and least reliable type of nipple is the Dunlop. Previously, they were found on Soviet-made bicycle models, today fewer cameras with such a nipple are produced.
Presta sport nipples are found on mountain bikes, road bikes and hybrid bikes. True, recently it has begun to be used on simpler bicycle models.
The most common type of nipple is the automotive Shrader. It is very convenient to have a bicycle camera with just such a nipple, because in this case it will be possible to pump up the wheel even at gas stations. In general, most manufacturers now make universal pumps that fit both Shrader and Presta nipples. Therefore, you can choose any of THESE two.
How to prevent puncture
It is easy to work with the repair kit, but there are several technological methods that allow you to repair cameras without it.
Perhaps the most interesting products in this area are self-adhesive cameras. Their secret is that a special gel or resin is poured into the dense chamber. In the event of a breakdown, this substance flows into the rupture and seals it. Thus, self-adhesive models allow you not to think about repairs for some time, however, such cameras cost at least twice as much as their conventional counterparts with a weight of 1.5-2 times more.
Otherwise, puncture prevention is very simple:
- Inflate the wheel correctly. An under-inflated or over-inflated wheel is prone to bursting or biting or pressure, respectively.
- Choose clean roads. The most common reason for a puncture is iron screws, nails and glass. They can be easily avoided simply by observing the surface you are moving on.
- Not storming obstacles “head-on”. The impact of even a shock-absorbed front wheel on a sharp side is guaranteed to lead to damage, even if the breakdown did not work out the first time.
- Use “anti-puncture tape”, which is an extra layer of synthetic rubber that is placed between the tire and the tube inside the wheel.
What pressure should be in the bicycle chamber
The value of this parameter depends on the type of tire. To minimize the risk of damaging your bike tube, consider the dimensions of your bike tire. Typically, the minimum and maximum allowable pressure values in the chamber are applied to the tires. For hardtails, this parameter is 2.5-3.0 atmospheres. For two-suspension bikes, it can be increased to 5.0.
If the wheel is large and poorly inflated, the likelihood of breaking the integrity of the rubber is higher. In addition, the roll is getting worse, it is more difficult to ride. If the wheels are too inflated, then when driving on bad roads, shaking intensifies, and permeability becomes worse. It is also necessary to take into account when optimizing pressure and own body weight. The higher it is, the more pressure inside the wheels should be.
INSTALLING THE CAMERA IN PLACE
Inflate the camera a little to avoid damaging it again.
Insert the nipple into the special hole of the rim and carefully putting the entire tube into the middle of the tire.
Tuck the edges of the tire across the entire width of the wheel into the rim. It should be possible to do it with your hands, but if the edges do not want to fall into place in any way, take it with a montage and already with its help carry out what was conceived. Do this carefully, otherwise you will have a new puncture.
In order for the camera to straighten inside, pump up the wheel a little and knead the camera, this will be enough for the camera to take the correct position.
Bleed the wheel to the required state. To do this correctly, without fear that the wheel will burst unexpectedly, after pumping up, hand over the camera with two fingers. If your fingers cannot overcome resistance, then the camera is pumped up enough, you can hit the road.
Just in case
The ideal conditions for repairing a bike and changing parts are garage ones. There is enough space for all the necessary manipulations and, of course, there is the necessary tool to change parts. However, in most cases, bicycle cameras are damaged directly on the track and so that the bicycle can reach home, it must be replaced immediately in field conditions.
To avoid unpleasant situations, professionals recommend taking a spare tire with you. this is the name of the bicycle cameras that you take with you. “just in case”, so that, if necessary, be able to quickly change it, as well as the pump. The only drawback of this is the additional weight, which, if it is impossible to attach the pump and the spare wheel to the bike, will have to be carried. Repair kit. a set for gluing the damaged area, is lightweight and takes up much less space. However, the camera can be damaged in such a way that it will be impossible to repair it in field conditions, and the decision to change it will become the only correct one. But in the absence of a spare wheel, you will not be able to change it and continue the race.
How to change camera?
You will need a repair kit to replace the punctured camera. He contains:
- Several different synthetic rubber patches with glued side to be glued,
- Metal grinder to create a rough surface,
- Rubber adhesive capable of board and camera floor as one piece,
- Degreaser can be seen in some kits needed for strong bonding.
Modern cyclists often use anti-puncture gel, which is pumped into a new chamber before inflating.
The steps to replace the camera are quite simple, you just need to do everything carefully and apply a little physical force. The sequence is as follows:
Will put the bike upside down,
Free the wheel by loosening the screw on the axle or by unfastening the eccentric,
The repaired or new camera must be replaced. To do this, it must be put into the tires, stretching along the rim. When doing this, DO NOT forget to check the nipple and the space under the tire and make sure that no creases form. The camera will take its shape if you pump it up a little. Place the tires over the rim and replace the wheel, being careful NOT to confuse the chain location.
Secure the wheel with nuts or eccentrics, put the brakes in place, pump up the camera and put the bike on wheels.
Before working on changing the camera, make sure that there are no hot objects nearby. They pose an explosion hazard because the heat increases the internal pressure of the chamber. It is possible to blow up the chamber if, during inflation, the permissible pressure marked on the bicycle tire is exceeded.
Please make sure it matches the hole in the rim before purchasing. The tube can be sprinkled with talcum powder before installing inside the tire. First you need to make sure that there are no traces of oil on the rubber surfaces.
Before installing the camera, it must be slightly inflated. This will find other punctures and make it easier to fit into the rim. When replacing the camera and tires, you need to remove the rear brake axle so that it does not accidentally bend it and DO NOT damage it.
Tires change Not only with the appearance of cracks, but also after 7-10 years, regardless of operating conditions. If the camera had to be changed due to a puncture, it is necessary to carefully inspect the inside of the tire and remove the foreign body.
So, replacing tires and tubes is no big deal, and most cyclists handle this on their own. The main thing is to stock up on the necessary items and do everything carefully.
Choosing the right bike tire
In order to change the VELOBIKE tires to better ones, it is important to understand the purpose of buying tires, the main ride surface and understand high-quality rubber. But these are not the main criteria when buying a new rubber for a bicycle.
In addition, tires for bicycle bikes are divided according to the season of use and the type of tread on the bicycle tire.
For example, spikes will be present on winter tires for timely braking. Others are ideal for city driving or racing tracks, but not for off-road, due to the lack of protectors.
Bicycle tires are made of composite material or rubber. The first material is more durable, but has a higher price. The second, they wear off faster, but adhere better to the coating. Price fluctuates depending on the quality of the bicycle rubber. Artificial rubber used in the production of cheap tires has a short service life, which cannot be said about natural.
When deciding to change your bike tires, remember the following factors for poor starting material:
- If you press and hold your finger diligently, traces of rubber will remain on the skin;
- Thin protectors on such tires will easily come off and not stretch;
- The walls must be smooth.
To gain access to the punctured tube, you will need to disassemble and remove the tire from the wheel rim. It will take some skill to do the sorting, so DO NOT be discouraged if you DO NOT succeed right away. It happens as follows:
- The wheel you removed must be placed on top of the sprockets.
- Now you need to remove the nipple cap.
- The next step is to cling to the edge of the tire with the help of the bead blade and turn inside the wheel.
- After fixing the bead blade, you need to take another one of the same, and perform the same actions along the circumference, thereby disassembling the wheel completely.
Since the tire has already been disassembled, it is already easily removed, and the process of removing the camera will not complicate you at all.
We do carriage REPAIR
One of the most difficult parts of a bicycle is the bottom bracket. What to do if on the way she let you down, but asks for help there is nobody? Everything is simple, and after reading the text written below, using the minimum number of tools, you can easily disassemble and repair the bicycle carriage.
To disassemble the carriage assembly, the first step is to dismantle the stars and the connecting rod system. We will NOT dwell on this in detail, since it is NOT so difficult, and there is plenty of information on this topic on the net.
On pleasure bicycles and inexpensive “Gornik” they install a carriage of standard modification. The order of its disassembly is indicated below:
- First of all, you need to Unscrew the lock nut on the left using a special key;
- After that, we remove the carriage cup on the same side, Using a 16 key for this (note that the right-hand thread is cut on the left side, and the left-hand thread was done in the same way)
- If necessary, you will need to unscrew the cup case. This requires the use of a 32 key;
- Now we take out the carriage assembly. It is best to immediately flush and, accordingly, clean the carriage tube, first of all, the thread;
- Next, we are engaged in flushing the parts of the carriage assembly with gasoline or kerosene, along the way we look at whether the bearings, cups and wasps are intact. If necessary, you need to replace worn parts;
- The next step is the same operations, only in reverse order: we screw the cup to the very end;
- Now you need to thoroughly grease everything with grease (lithol), put the bearings on here, and insert it into place;
- Next, you need to screw the cup on the left, until it stops rotating. And now the cup needs to be gradually released, until the rotation of the axis does not interfere with anything, and it will be smooth. It is worth remembering that backlash is not allowed;
- The lock nut should now be tightened;
- We make a final check of rotation and absence of backlash. If there is a need for this, then you need to repeat paragraphs 8-9.
WE MAKE REPAIRS Rear wheel hub and wheel puncture
To repair a bicycle with your own hands, you need to have certain skills and knowledge. In this article, we will tell you how to repair the rear wheel hub of a bicycle, repair a bicycle carriage, and also tell you how to fix a puncture in the rear wheel of a bicycle on your own, and for novice cyclists, we will tell you what pressure in a bicycle tire should comply with the norm.
- Rear wheel hub repair
- We do carriage repair
- Rear wheel repair: fix the puncture
- What tire pressure should be?
HOW TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL?
- If your bike has rim brakes, the first step is to undo them. This is done as follows: you need to heap the levers to which the pads are attached, and raise the part that fixes the cable.
- Now you should turn the bike over with the saddle down, so that it finds its support on the handlebars and saddle. If your bike is equipped with a headlight or bike computer, you should be careful not to damage them.
- Next, we will loosen the eccentric of the wheel holding the wheel on the frame.
- Will take a position behind the bike. Now you need to slightly unbend the lever in the rear derailleur, pull out the rear wheel, which should rise up without much difficulty.
- All that remains is to remove the chain from the wheel sprockets. Now the wheel is disconnected.
REPAIR Rear WHEEL bush
The most common problem that a bike’s rear hub can upset you is a loose or tight taper. If weakening is observed in the cone, then the wheel will begin to play strongly. In the second case, when the cone is tightened, the bicycle will move much more “tight” than in normal mode, and the bearings may crackle. One way or another, you need to repair the rear wheel hub of the bike as soon as possible.
To eliminate the backlash or, on the contrary, tighten the cone, wrenches are needed, most often they use a 15 mm open-end cone wrench and a 17 mm open-end wrench. First, you need to start loosening the locknut, after which you need to proceed to loosening or tightening the flare nut to the required position.
Ideally, there should be no backlash. Finally, the lock nut must be screwed into place. If the cone is adjusted properly, the wheel will turn easily due to the force of gravity acting on the reflector or nipple.
It also happens that the rear bushings can be broken or bent. The main reason for such a malfunction is usually poor quality parts. If this happens, you need to completely replace the bushings with a new, better quality.
When replacing an axle, or when undergoing scheduled maintenance, or during repairs to the rear wheel hub of a motorcycle, so that it is more convenient to dismantle the ratchet. If the essence of the repair is just a tightening or loosening of the cone, then this action is not necessary to perform.
To avoid possible damage, you need to periodically undergo maintenance. Its essence most often comes down to adjusting the cone and washing, cleaning the components and lubricating the bearings.
Less often. they change bearings, oil seals or washers. The cost of repairs can result in high costs, in the event that maintenance was carried out infrequently and in general, the sleeve did not really follow.
For example, it happens that the bearing “eats out” the grooves in the bushing housing, this can happen because it has been bent or insufficiently lubricated. In this case, in order to repair the rear wheel of the bike, you will need to completely replace the hub body, or maybe the wheel itself.
Therefore, in order to avoid such a situation, before going on a long bike trip, you need to carry out maintenance of your bike, and if problems are found, then fix them in a timely manner.
Glue the camera
- First of all, you need to determine where the camera was pierced. To do this, the camera needs to be pumped up and examined carefully. A characteristic Hissing sound will be heard at the puncture site. This place needs to be marked somehow.
- Then you need to free the chamber from air by pressing the nipple tongue.
- Your repair kits should have fine sandpaper, you need to take it and rub well the place where the tire pierced.
- Now you need to apply a thin layer of adhesive. This is done in such a way that the piece on which the glue is applied slightly exceeds the size of the patch.
- Let the glue lie down for a couple of minutes, and then stick the patch from which the protective film has been removed in advance. Be careful, there should be NO air bubbles under the patch.
- Now press the patch to the camera as much and as long as possible.
After gluing the tube, run your hand over the inside of the tire. It is NOT rare that the cause of the puncture is stuck in the tires, and if so, then it must be removed. Don’t forget this moment.
That’s it, the wheel is repaired.
REAR WHEEL REPAIR: fixing punctures
To begin with, it should be said that the repair of the rear wheel of a bicycle can be associated with the elimination of the “eight” on the wheel or the filling of the wheel hub. However, since these are specific operations that require certain experience and tools, they deserve separate consideration and will not be described in this text. Below we will tell you how to cope with a puncture of the rear wheel, since everyone can face this.
Before repairing a wheel, you need to dismantle it. The front wheel can be removed easily, but removing the rear wheel, for a beginner cyclist, may not be such an easy task. Let’s take a closer look at how to dismantle the rear wheel.
WHAT TIRE PRESSURE should be?
The AMATEUR was always worried about the question. how much should the tires be inflated? This is especially true for beginner cyclists who do not yet have special skills and cannot immediately tell how much pressure should be in the tires of a bicycle to ensure a comfortable and safe ride.
In fact, there is no difficulty here. Most bikes have pressure indications on their tires that best suit that particular model. Most often, the pressure range ranges from 2.38 to 4.08 atmospheres.
These tire pressures are optimal when riding off-road or in the mountains. The volume of air in the tires of the “Gornik” is quite a lot, therefore, there is no need to pump over its tires.
So, do not forget that, taking low pressure and a large volume, the Gornik’s wheels should be pumped no more than once a week.
To determine the pressure at which you need to inflate the wheels of the bike, you just need to read the inscriptions on the tire. Tire manufacturers usually indicate the value of the upper and lower pressure limits.
But, unlike mountain, road bike tires need to be inflated to a slightly higher pressure, since the volume of the wheels is small. The value of the pressure in the tires “Shosseyniki” should be in the range from 6.46 to 9.18 atmospheres. And the pressure check must be done daily.
The traditional way of checking is to put pressure on the wheel with your fingers, and if it has NOT squeezed through, then you can move on. Everyone did this when they were little. But it is better not to engage in amateur performances and just pump up the wheels, depending on the indicators that the pressure gauge issued.
Bicycle tire pressures can also change depending on how much weight the cyclist has and what the road is made of. If the route of your trip consists, for the most part, of off-road, mountains or an ordinary rocky road, then pumped wheels are clearly not what you need.
Lower tire pressure will allow you to worry less about bumps while driving, and maximize traction control, while it is easy to fall with over-inflated tires. But the situation changes on a good highway, where well-inflated wheels feel much better.
If the tire pressure is too low (1.9. 2.17 atmospheres), then this is the cause of many problems. To begin with, the tire can break through from the slightest collision with a stone or bump, and if during this the camera is clamped by the rim, it will be punctured in several places and it will be almost impossible to repair it.
In addition, there is also the likelihood of damage to the rim, and this, not only does it take a long time to repair, but also is expensive. And last, but most unpleasant. during a sharp turn, a tire with low pressure can come off the wheel, and in this case both the rim and the cyclist will be damaged.