How to change gears on a sports bike

How to change gears on a sports bike

They allow you to go faster or spend less effort on movement than a single-speed transmission. over, in some situations it will be completely impossible to ride a bicycle with one single gear (for example, in a very steep climb).

However, today almost no one doubts the expediency of a multi-speed transmission on a bicycle. The only question remains is the correct gear shifting. How to change gears correctly? Let’s formulate some simple but important rules:

Shift gears only while the bike is in motion (this rule does not apply to planetary hubs).

Try to change gears when the load from the chain is removed or insignificant, otherwise you may not be able to switch, and even break the gearshift mechanisms or break the chain (this largely depends on the quality level of the bicycle components). Particularly hard on the front derailleur.

We do not recommend to increase the gear when overcoming hills, select gears in front of the mountain (riders use uphill shifting if necessary, but this technique requires skill and “feeling of the bike”).

Without proper skill, do not shift multiple gears at once. Do this in stages: after waiting for one gear to work well, go to the next (this moment also depends on the class of the bike’s equipment and the cyclist’s skill).

Let’s take a closer look at the switching process itself:

A typical modern bicycle has 2-3 stars in the front and 8-10 stars in the back. The numbering of the front stars is from 1 to 3. in the direction of increasing stars, the numbering of the rear stars, from 1 to 8 (9.10), in the direction of decreasing stars.

For simplicity, let’s take the popular 38 budget drive as an example: The large chainring is used when driving on a good, level road (asphalt or compacted soil) in the absence of strong headwinds. Trailing sprockets 8 to 4 are usually used with this sprocket. Although in sports skating and racing, you can often see any combination of.

The conditions that we have described above are just a guideline for understanding when and what kind of transmissions it is rational to use. But the determining factors are always the specific riding conditions and the level of training of the cyclist. Beginners should always remember about the correct cadence, which in general, with a uniform movement, should not fall below 60 rpm. And remember that you need to look not at the switches, but at the road.

Ideally, one should strive to move to the intuitive level of shifting that athletes and experienced cyclists are perfect for. It shouldn’t matter to you how many gears and what type of drive you have on your bike. You will not think about switching at all: everything will happen automatically, depending on the current road or racing situation. The clarity of the gears depends on the class of equipment, the degree of wear of parts, the correct setting of the mechanisms, the condition of the cables and their shirts, as well as the degree of contamination of the mechanisms and the chain.

The gears were invented for convenience and more comfortable riding on the bike, thanks to them you can choose the optimal force applied to the pedals, so that the cyclist can easily overcome obstacles in his path (uphill, downhill, ground) There are several gearshift mechanisms on a mountain bike types:

For rotary switches (grip-shift, revoshift). operate in a manner similar to the throttle stick on motorcycles. Gear shifting is carried out by rotating a special shift knob on the shifter. on myself or from myself.

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Lever mechanisms (Rapid-fire, trigger, dual-control) include shifters that switch speeds using one or two levers. There are single-lever and two-lever. In double wishbone shifters. one lever is responsible for raising the gear, and the other, on the contrary, lowering.

Basically on modern high-speed bikes, the right derailleur is responsible for shifting the reverse gears, and the left. front.

Speed ​​bikes usually have 3 stars in the front and 6-10 (/. 2) in the back. If you look at the numbers on the shifters, the front stars from 1-3 go up (1 is the smallest star), and the back ones, vice versa. downward (1st largest).

Here are some more tips on how to shift gears correctly:

If on the left shifter (chainrings) the derailleur is in position “3” (largest chainring). mainly used for acceleration on a flat road, with this sprocket it is rational to use small rear sprockets on the rear wheel.

Small chainring, position “1”, it is rational to use with large chainrings on the rear wheel. You will need this for significant climbs, driving off-road, sand, etc.

How To Ride a Motorcycle: Part 2. Shifting & Downshifting

When changing gears, ideally, you need to feel the bike yourself, control the load on the pedals, in general, everything will come by itself over time.

Additional rules for changing speeds on a bicycle:

Do not increase the gear when overcoming hills, it is necessary to switch to lower gears in front of the mountain in advance.

Shift so that the chain is not too skewed. For example, on the chainring, the chain is on the largest chainring (3) and on the back also on the largest chainring (1). there will be a skew.

Switching speeds must be carried out while the bike is moving.

Avoid abrupt switching, immediately through several stars, switching should be alternate. Before switching, it is necessary to wait for the clarity of the previous one, then switch to the next.

Do not start at the fastest gears to avoid breaking the chain or breaking the derailleur. Try to keep the shifting balanced if the pedal load is heavy. you need to switch to a lighter gear.

There is no special science in shifting gears on a bicycle; at first glance, everything is simple. Two levers on the left, two on the right, or even just a grip-shift. what could be easier. But nevertheless, observing novice cyclists, one may notice not entirely correct and coordinated actions. But consistency when cycling is the most important thing! This is the only way you will be able to move as efficiently as possible on a bicycle, make maneuvers, overcome obstacles.

As an example, we will consider the most ordinary mountain bike (MTB) with three stars in front and 8-9 in the back.

Let’s immediately highlight the most common errors and problems:

Too heavy gear is a common mistake. Many newbies even say that 44 (or even 48) stars in the front are not enough for them. It’s a delusion. Constantly spinning a heavy gear you are simply killing your knees. Try to keep track of your cadence (cadence) until it becomes automatic. You can even count the number of revolutions per minute for the sake of interest. If it is around 90-100, then this is very good. And so, gear 44-11 is enough to accelerate on the plain to

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60 km / h So try to convince those who say that 44 stars are not enough for the city. By doing this, you may help to keep people healthy

Curve transmission. it is not uncommon to observe how people, without looking at the chain, include gears like 3-1.2. In this case, the chain goes to bend, its wear increases, at the wrong moment it can simply fly off. The optimum chain position is when it passes from the chainring to the rear with minimal skew. So be sure not only to make it easy to twist, but also the position of the chain.

Switching under load. so even fragile girls manage to break chains, what to say about healthy men. And what a crunch at the same time. When shifting, reduce the load on the pedals to a minimum, just rotate them with ease until the chain jumps to the desired sprocket. Therefore, it always makes sense to assess the situation, possible obstacles and change gear in advance.

Chain biting is when the chain is pulled up by the chainrings when shifting. An unpleasant situation in which the nib near the carriage assembly may be severely scratched. This could be due to cogging on the star, dirt, improper assembly and setup. This is another plus to why you need to watch the shift, and not just mindlessly flip the shifters. All movements should be smooth, even airy.

Chain skipping. for example, you put a new chain on an already similar cassette (by the way, the chain resource

1500 km). As a result, when the load on the pedals increases, the chain slips and the pedals fail unpleasantly. This must be taken into account and travel more carefully until everything gets used to it. Even for a fairly strong cassette, the rubbing period is about 200 kilometers.

Dependence of the number of speeds on cycling discipline

Riders who ride mainly in urban conditions along familiar routes will be quite satisfied with cycling with a small number of gears. Indeed, as a rule, only 2. 4 average speeds are most often used. Therefore, city bicycles for the most part have only 6. 9 gears. Recently, however, manufacturers prefer to equip even the urban version with no less than 18 speeds. These bikes are equipped with a front suspension fork and are suitable for use both in urban areas and on rough terrain.

Cycling for young riders can have 3 speed modes, or not at all provide for the possibility of switching them.

A rare mountain bike now has less than 18 gears. Vehicles for extreme disciplines such as downhill are equipped with 7 to 9 speeds. At the same time, new modern mountain bikes in recent years are switching to a transmission with 10. 12 gears, with one sprocket in front.

Large diameter road bikes are equipped with a large number of gears to maintain optimal cadence and maintain speed over long stretches.

Stunt bikes are usually made with one speed.

The ability to shift gears makes riding the bike much easier and more comfortable. And when choosing a bike today, you should think about purchasing a multi-speed model. And the model with how many speeds to give preference depends on the riding style and the needs of each particular cyclist.

Cycling speeds: How to learn how to switch speeds on a bike

Eric Schlange, blogger at

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Power supplies and battery chargers

Once you drop below about 2W, the dynamo charger will not be able to supply power to most devices. Fortunately, some chargers have built-in buffer batteries that charge quickly and provide the power you need to drive at low speeds. For this feature, check out the Cinq Plug5 Plus, NC-17 Appcon 3000, Lumicon P5, Forumslader V5 and BM USB-Werk.

Charging Batteries or Batteries If your speed regularly drops above and below 11-13 km / h, it is best to recharge the battery into the battery for later use. But this is not the most efficient way to keep your devices charged because there is a waste of energy in additional circuits. When energy is stored in a battery, it loses about 15-20%. This means that you lose about 1 hour of power generation per 5 hours of driving, which adds up to!

If you are cycling more than 11-13 km / h, minimize this loss of efficiency by charging the electronics either directly from a USB charger or with ‘loop-through’ batteries (Cinq Smart Power Pack. Is the best available).

How to shift gears on a motorcycle. Multiple angle footage.

How long does it take to charge the battery? It depends on the USB dynamo charger and your cycling speed. Let’s take a look at two different power outputs.

Example One: 2.5W (12.5km / h on Cinq Plug5 Plus) After converting the 3W Hub Dynamo from AC to DC, the output power is converted to approximately 5V and 0.5A, which is within an hour of driving is 500 mAh. So charging a 5000mAh battery equates to 10 hours of driving, but when you factor in the small losses in the charging circuit, we lose about 20% of the total generated power. By adding 20% ​​extra riding time (10 hours (10 hours x 0.2)), we are counting on 12 hours of driving to recharge the battery from scratch.

Example Two: 4W (17km / h on Cinq Plug5 Plus) If we use an unusual circuit to increase the output power to 4W (5V and 0.8A), we can charge a 5000mAh battery in 6.25 hours of driving. take into account the losses in the charging circuit

20%, this equates to 7.5 hours of driving to theoretically charge the battery from scratch.

Usually, the battery capacity of a USB device can be found in the product specifications or on the battery itself. Read more about power banks and buffer batteries in my resource HERE.

Building Dynamo Explosion-Proof USB Chargers

KLite’s Kerry specializes in dynamos and charging systems for use in remote remote areas. Its main goal. reliability, so its charging systems are as simple as possible, using thick internal cables, full waterproofing and smoothing capacitors to provide over-matched waveforms (best practice for direct charging; Kerry says they take up half of his charger).

Usually, more complex circuitry and smaller form factors make it more likely that something will go wrong, so it’s always best to look online for reviews to find out how various USB chargers perform in some of the world’s harshest environments.