How To Change A Fork On A Bicycle

How to change the fork on a bike. How to remove and disassemble the front bike fork

A bicycle fork serves more than just a link between the frame and the front wheel. On MTB models, it also acts as the main shock absorber, smoothing out vibrations, stress on the arms and a negative effect on the mechanisms and the frame. Like any mechanism, it requires periodic maintenance, adjustment and replacement of component parts. And all this will require removal and disassembly. Is it possible to disassemble the bike fork by yourself? Quite, it only takes a little time, a few simple tools and neatness.

Why you need to remove a bicycle fork

Obviously, there is no need to simply dismantle it from the bike. There are a number of reasons for this. replacement, overhaul and service. Replacement means removing an unusable part and installing a new one instead.

Repair. partial replacement of components. These can be bearings, washers, spring, damper or oil seal. Service includes adjustment, cleaning, lubrication.

The main symptoms that indicate removing the fork from the bike and putting it in order:

  • knocking on the go;
  • the fork is stuck and not adjustable;
  • bearing wear;
  • lack of lubrication (creaks);
  • cranking, heavy steering;
  • cracked legs and pants.

The device of the classic front shock absorption system is a metal spring and a rubber damper. Shrinkage of the spring and elongation of the elastomer rod degrade the properties of the shock absorber, making it stiffer. Regardless of setting, the fork will knock on obstacles.

Backlash and tight handlebar travel indicate worn bearings and o-rings, and a dirty fork cavity. A suspicious squeak when the bike is moving suggests that it is necessary to lubricate the part, and you cannot do without removing it.

Any mechanical damage leads to unexpected breakdown of the system. If cracks are found on the body and legs, the fork should be immediately replaced with a new one.!

In disassembling the shock absorber with your own hands, you will need tools:

  • set of screwdrivers;
  • flat sharp object;
  • sliding wrenches;
  • hexagon;
  • small hammer.

When working, you will need to clean and lubricate the part again, so you will need a can of grease, a few soft rags and gloves.

And a few recommendations in the end:

  • check the bike fork for integrity every 500. 1000 km;
  • clean the feet on the oil seals every 150. 200 km of the track;
  • apply a little grease to the stuffing box of the legs several times a season;
  • specially for hydraulic shock absorbers. change the oil every 5000 km.

How to remove and install the plug. step by step instructions

The first step is to get rid of the front wheel. To do this, turn the bike upside down. Release rim brakes by swinging out the clamping bow. With the discs, you can immediately start removing the wheel. Wings and other devices are immediately removed.

We put the bike in the usual position. Now you need to pull out the steering wheel and remove the plug from the glass:

Press off the side bolts on the stem.

Completely unscrew the steering pin fasteners or “anchor” bolt.

The steering wheel is carefully removed from the fork. You can immediately wipe the pipe with a soft cloth.

Use a thin sharp object (screwdriver or office knife) to pry the retaining metal washer over the glass.

Use the same tool to press out the gasket under the washer. As soon as the ring comes off the edge of the glass, gently pull it out with your hands.

Raise the frame and carefully pull out the fork from below. Why? To avoid damaging or losing bearings.

Next, you need to separate the crown from the stem. To do this, it is necessary to knock out the connecting ring on which the steering column bearing rests.

Using a thin sharp object and a hammer, carefully separate the ring from the edge of the fork. This completes the removal process.

How to put the fork back on the bike

First, inspect the bearing ring. There should be no damage or broken edges on it. Otherwise, you will need to replace it (if an old plug is installed). Assembly sequence:

Put the ring on the joint of the fork with the steering column.

Cover it with an adjustable wrench from above.

Using a hammer, press in the ring evenly with soft blows on the jaws of the key. We hammer “by sound”: while he is deaf, we continue to press, sonorous. the ring is in place.

Lubricate the surface of the stopper (grease. lithol-24, buksol or special composition).

Place the bearing carefully with the balls facing up. You can also put some lubricant on it. A sealing washer must be placed under the bearing.

Carefully insert the stem into the glass and repeat all removal operations in reverse order.

Dismantling the front fork for parts

You don’t need to disassemble the part to replace it, but its repair will require you to “fit” into the mechanism and carefully dig into it. Consider how to sort out a spring-elastomer type suspension fork:

  • Unscrew the bottom fasteners with a hex wrench.
  • Remove the spring compression adjustment bolt. Preload. It is the main damper travel regulator.
  • Remove the elastomer restrictor or damper.
  • Take off the “pants”.
  • Using a screwdriver, remove the seals from the pants.

The main reasons why the fork squeaks, makes knocks and does not smooth out vibrations while the bike is moving include wear of parts, water and dirt ingress, lack of internal lubrication. We put in order:

change, fork, bicycle
  • Remove all dirt from the inside of the pants.
  • Thoroughly wipe the fork legs, spring and seals.
  • Replace the defective part if necessary.
  • Fit the elastomer damper (fill oil through the nipple for the hydraulic fork).
  • Lubricate the inner cavity. inject oil from a can.
  • Install Mounting Bolt and Preload.

It looks like a do-it-yourself bicycle fork bulkhead. Is it needed for a new part? There is an opinion that a plug that has been sorted out at once will be better tuned and last longer. Much depends on the quality of the kit, but it will be found out in real riding conditions.

Scheduled repairs are done as needed, bulkhead once a season. And of course, we shouldn’t forget about prevention. After each ride, remove dirt from the surface of the oil seals, lubricate, check the fasteners and integrity.

How to remove, disassemble and lubricate a bicycle fork

If you do not know how to remove and disassemble a mountain bike suspension fork for maintenance, repair or replacement, then this article will help you find out what you need for this, and how to do it at home. Also here will be considered such issues: how and how to lubricate the front fork, maintenance intervals and other tips on this topic. All this will be presented in the form of detailed instructions with pictures for each action, as well as a video on disassembling a bicycle suspension fork. In this article we will analyze the RST GILA 100 mm spring-elastomer fork with disc brake mountings.

Why remove and disassemble the bike fork

A bicycle fork, like all other components, can be replaced, repaired or serviced. Therefore, before proceeding with these procedures, we need to remove it from the bike, and in some cases disassemble the shock absorber for parts. In what cases will we have to remove it? First of all, this is when it is replaced by another. Secondly, it may be necessary to replace bearings and / or support cups, apply new lubricant, and also, there are times when it is necessary to align the steering tube or perform other repair work.

Disassembling a fork shock absorber is most often necessary to replace lubricant or worn components. For example, these can be oil seals (cuffs), etc.

How to remove a bicycle fork

Below you will find detailed instructions for dismantling the front suspension fork with explanatory pictures.

  • First of all, we carry out preparatory work, namely, we unscrew everything that is attached to the plug. In our case, this is the brake caliper, as well as the front disc brake hose, which is clamped to the fork legs. If you have V-brakes installed, then dismantle them. This also applies to the speed sensor from the bike computer, front fender, etc.
  • We unscrew the bolts securing the stem to the steering tube, and then unscrew the bicycle fork anchor bolt.
  • Carefully remove the steering wheel together with the stem and lower it down. At this stage, you should act carefully so as not to damage the hydraulic lines or accidentally hitting the metal parts of the steering wheel on the frame, so as not to scratch the latter.
  • We remove the spacer rings and the guide sleeve (cone). To do this, carefully pry it with a small flat screwdriver in the area of ​​the cut. Then we take out the upper rolling ring and the upper bearing. All these actions are illustrated by the pictures below.
  • All operations have been completed and now you can carefully remove the steering tube from the glass. After that, it remains for us to get the bearing, the lower rolling ring and remove the front wheel. To do this, we loosen the eccentric or unscrew the fixing bolts (depending on the type of attachment). This completes the process of removing the bike fork.

How to disassemble a bicycle suspension fork

After we have removed the suspension fork from the bike, old used grease should be removed from all of the above components, namely the bearings, cups and raceways, as well as the steering tube and other areas. It’s not worth applying a new one yet, we will add it back to the glass at the stage of installing the plug.

Next, let’s start disassembling the shock absorber for further lubricant replacement.

  • Turn the fork over and unscrew the mounting bolts.
  • We remove the pants from the legs of the fork. If necessary, remove the oil seals.
  • We remove used lubricant from all accessible surfaces. This procedure can be left for later and performed after complete disassembly, but it is preferable to do this immediately in order to avoid oily marks on clothes, tools, etc. Do not forget to remove dirt and grease from the bicycle fork cuffs, as well as inside the pants themselves.
  • Then remove the lower travel stops and stop stops. To do this, we apply a little effort and pull them off the rods.
  • We unscrew the adjustments on each of the fork legs. They are unscrewed with a special key, which, unfortunately, we did not have. Therefore, we had to make our own self-made key for these cases. We will attach a photo below, suddenly someone will come in handy. We take out the springs with caps and elastomers, as well as two rods (one from each leg).
  • Remove old grease from all fork surfaces.
READ  How To Pull The Gearshift Cable On A Bicycle

This completes the disassembly of the bicycle fork shock absorber. The next step is to apply new grease. What can be used as a lubricant, we will consider below.

How and how can you lubricate a bicycle suspension fork

I use Litol-24 grease to lubricate all of the bike’s front fork assemblies, including both the shock absorber and the head tube bearings. It is believed that it negatively affects aluminum parts when moisture enters. But using it for five seasons, no negative consequences were noticed. The advantages of this grease include good temperature resistance. It does not thicken both in severe frost up to 50 C, and in extreme heat (up to 150 C).

Many people advise pouring liquid machine oils, sewing machine oil, and others into your pants. Personally, in my experience, there was a deterioration in the work of the fork shock absorber (jerks were observed during compression and rebound of the spring). And if liquid oils worked better, manufacturers would fill them in initially, which they don’t.

We figured out how to lubricate the bicycle fork. Next, let’s see how to do this. We apply grease to the spring with excess (we ram the lubricant between the spring rings), the excess will come out through the hole under the stem and, if there is an excess in the pants, it will be squeezed out through the stuffing box seals (but you shouldn’t overdo it either). We also apply grease to the grooves of the cuffs and add forks to the pants. We lubricate all rubbing parts with a thin layer.

Before installing the plug into the glass, do not forget to lubricate the bearings, rings and cups.

This completes the lubrication process and you can go back to assembling and installing the bicycle fork.

How to assemble and put the plug back

The assembly and installation process of the bicycle suspension fork is carried out in reverse order. The only thing that should be done carefully and carefully to avoid incorrect installation of components. After you have installed the assembled fork back on the bike, secured the stem, be sure to check that there is no play in the steering tube in the frame glass. If they are observed, then be sure to eliminate them before the trip.

After you set everything up and start riding, for the first time there will be an abundant release of lubricant through the cuffs of the bicycle fork pants. Don’t worry, this is normal. Over time, excess oil will be squeezed out, and this process will stop. During this period, do not be lazy, and do not forget to wash off excess lubricant after each trip.

Fork maintenance intervals

The frequency of changing the lubricant of a bicycle fork depends not least on the road surface on which you are riding. If your routes contain an abundance of dust, mud, sand and other abrasive material, then the frequency of service should be increased. Here are the average figures after which maintenance should be performed.

Approximately every 700-800 km, the oil seals should be disassembled and lubricated, and every 4000-5000 km the entire fork is moved and lubricated.

As you may have noticed, removing, disassembling and lubricating a mountain or city bike suspension fork at home is not that difficult. The main thing is to treat this process responsibly and do everything consistently. The better you take care of your iron horse, the longer it will delight you with its trouble-free work.

Bicycle fork repair

A mountain bike, and indeed almost any modern bicycle today is difficult to imagine without a shock absorption system designed to effectively and affordably increase the handling and ride comfort of this type of transport.

Most often, bicycles are equipped with a front suspension fork, thanks to which it is much easier for cyclists to overcome road bumps even at high speeds, while the load on the palms and hands during the ride is minimal. By reducing vibration, a well-matched and aligned fork extends the life of other bike components such as the frame and steering bearings.

The service life of the plug itself can be extended several times through proper care and regular maintenance.

Front Spring Fork Maintenance Video Review: Fork routine inspection

Often, it is the prophylactic inspection of the fork that makes it possible to timely identify minor deviations from the norm in the operation of the device, and, accordingly, prevent a more serious breakdown. Generally, a visual inspection of the fork includes checking:

  • states of dropouts;
  • fork legs for dents, scuffs and other marks;
  • oil seals (anthers) for mechanical damage and oil leaks from under them;
  • pressure in air chambers;
  • the presence and condition of the lateral backlash of the legs in the “pants”;
  • the condition of the fastening bolts under the “pants” of the fork and adjustment knobs.

Fork maintenance

In addition to a routine inspection, the fork also requires regular maintenance, namely:

  • every 100-150 km of the distance traveled, it is necessary to clean and lubricate the feet on the oil seals;
  • every 500-1000 km. disassembly and full lubrication of oil seals;
  • every 4000-5000 km or at least once a year an oil change is made (applies to oil forks)

In general, a bicycle fork should be lubricated at least once a season, but it is recommended to do this more often if you are actively using your bike. If we consider a spring-elastomer fork as an example, the lubrication process will look like this:

  • Using a syringe, oil is poured under the boot.
  • For the lubricant to be evenly distributed, the fork must be designed.
  • Remaining oil must be removed with a soft cloth.

According to experts, it is better to use silicone and transparent greases as a lubricant.

In addition to lubrication, maintaining a bicycle fork also includes keeping the devices clean. To exclude the possibility of dirt getting into the oil and malfunction of the bike after each walk, you need to wipe the legs of the forks near the anthers.

Also, the bike fork can be adjusted by sag or rebound (if available). However, as experts note, this procedure should be performed in stages: after changing each parameter, you should check the progress of the bike. Otherwise, the rider may miss out on the difference in travel and the effect of fork adjustment will be blurred. It is worth noting that the masters advise to start adjusting this device from the neutral position, in which the rebound should be set halfway, and the compression arrows are unscrewed completely counterclockwise.

Fork repair

Work on replacing oil, foot oil seals, sealing parts, as well as on eliminating a malfunction of one of the components is accompanied by complete or partial disassembly of the bicycle fork.

Consider the procedure for removing a fork from a bike.

First you need to turn the bike upside down, and after releasing the brake (in the case of a rim brake), remove the front wheel. After that, you can remove the stem with the stem and the head tube.

Then we remove directly the plug itself. It is important to ensure that the balls are not lost from the bearings during fork removal. Any sharp object can be used to remove the tapered support ring from the fork stem. After that, you can start repairing or servicing the plug.

Next, consider the procedure for disassembling the fork (a spring-electric fork will act as an example):

  • The lower fixing bolts are unscrewed using hexagons.
  • The Preload spring force adjustment bolt is unscrewed (it is important to remember the bolt stroke).
  • An elastomer is obtained, which is responsible for the function of limiting the travel of the spring (sometimes, if necessary, you can change the size of the elastomer by cutting).
  • The bolts are unscrewed and the “pants” are taken out. In this case, you need to monitor what flows out of there (dirt, water, oil).
  • Anthers are taken from the “pants” with a screwdriver, as well as bosses, which for this need to be rotated around their axis.

Further, all components are checked for cracks or other damage and washed with kerosene. Components requiring lubrication are treated with the appropriate material. It is worth noting that it is better to lubricate the spring with a thick grease, which will increase the efficiency of the bicycle fork.

Some cyclists go through even only purchased forks, trying to individually debug the device.

The fork assembly process is performed in the reverse order of the parsing process, so we will not describe it.

It is better to entrust the procedure for replacing the fork on a bicycle to a qualified specialist or perform it under the supervision and according to the recommendations of the master.

As practice shows, owners can be divided into two types:

  • Those who ride a bike until the last “breath” of transport, and only when all systems completely fail, think about repairing the device.
  • Those who carefully monitor the condition of the bike, follow the rules for caring for it and prevent any breakdowns.

It is no secret that the first type of owner’s approach is ultimately much more expensive, because often it is necessary to replace the components of the bicycle that are not recoverable. In addition, there are times when the bike can no longer be saved.

In principle, experienced users are quite capable of handling fork repairs on their own, because over time, every cyclist who shows interest in his transport will remember the name and functions of the parts, and it is no longer difficult for him to find the cause of the problem. If there is no relevant experience and skills in repairing a bicycle, then you should not experiment and it is better to contact competent specialists. In addition, ignorance of the design features of the fork itself can lead to difficulties in eliminating its breakage.

This video review will help you consolidate the acquired skills:

How to remove the fork from the bike correctly, the order of reinstallation

The passion for cycling brings more than just pleasant cycling experiences to life. Good technical condition of a two-wheeled friend requires attention and constant care. Turning to a master for simple manipulations is expensive in terms of money and time. You should be able to carry out simple procedures yourself, in particular, know how to remove the fork from the bike, clean it, lubricate it, fill it with fresh oil. The service life of this and other parts and mechanisms depends on its service life, and most importantly, the safety of the biker. Knowing the technology of work, even amateur beginners can handle it.

READ  How To Learn To Ride A Bike Hands-Free

Part features

The front fork is an integral part of a bicycle, a multifunctional steering mechanism. Her main “duties”:

Take the survey

  • compliance of the wheel rotation with the steering angle;
  • maintaining the correct wheel trajectory;
  • mitigation of loads during wheel impacts, braking by the front brake;
  • reduced wear of the frame and other elements of the bike.

In terms of material, they are steel, carbon fiber, titanium, aluminum. The latter are considered the worst of all, since they transmit vibration to the hands more strongly.

According to the principle of the device, forks are:

  • rigid or rigid. installed on children’s, road models, city bikes;
  • soft or cushioning. essential for any advanced mountain bike.

High quality damping forks adapt to the riding conditions. In expensive models, the speed of compression and unclenching can be adjusted, changing its stroke (stiffness). It is also possible to adjust the full or penetrable blocking action and the degree of minimum load (when the front shock is activated).

Removing the fork mechanism is sometimes necessary:

  • when completely replacing the fork on a bicycle;
  • if you need to replace oil seals or bearings;
  • for applying new grease;
  • for aligning the steering tube.

The occurrence of extraneous sounds when riding or “sticking” of the handlebars are signs of the need to check the front fork of the bicycle out of plan. Urgent repair is required when:

  • knocking, creaking while driving;
  • jamming of the fork, which does not allow adjustment;
  • turning the steering wheel, making it heavier;
  • the appearance of characteristic cracks on the “legs” or “pants”.

If the problem happens far from the community and specialized help is not available, you need to be able to remove the fork from the bike and fix it. For preventive purposes, cleaning and lubrication of the “legs” on the oil seals are required every 150 km. But the disassembly of the front fork, its bulkhead. every 4000 runs or more often (if the bike is operated on sand or other soil with abrasive properties).

Rigid Cushion Steel Carbon Aluminum

Dismantling algorithm

It is worth preparing several tools for work in advance: a wrench, a small hammer, pliers, a small gas adjustable wrench, a flat screwdriver. Since you have to use oil, you will need unnecessary rags, and in order not to get your hands dirty, gloves. To dismantle the fork, it is most convenient to attach the bike to a special rack-mount. If it is not there, the bike is placed upside down (this is not very convenient, because the handlebars will need to be removed). Operating procedure:

  • Forks, wheels remove dirt.
  • Disconnect the brakes and the entire set of wires and other devices attached to the fork “pants”.
  • If the bike has V-brakes, it is enough to open its pads, if disc brakes, you need to unscrew the caliper, that is, the brake itself, and then detach the brake line from the fork.
  • Remove the speed sensor from the “pants”, wings.
  • Disconnect the steering wheel (since there is a hydraulic line mount and other cables on it, you should not try to completely remove the steering wheel, it is enough to squeeze the side wheels on its extension and unscrew the anchor bolt), carefully remove it without damaging other mechanisms.
  • To remove the bicycle fork, pry the retaining metal washer above the glass with a screwdriver or any thin sharp object.
  • With the same tool, press out the gasket, which is located under the washer. Pushing the ring away from the edge of the glass, carefully remove it with your hands.
  • Raise the bicycle frame and carefully, without losing the bearings, pull the front fork from below.
  • To separate the crown from the stem, knock out the connecting ring.
  • Using a flat screwdriver and lightly tapping on it with a hammer, separate the ring from the end of the fork. To facilitate removal, there are small depressions under it in front and behind.

All removed parts are neatly laid out, cleaned and lubricated.

Unscrew the handlebar mountings and remove it. Carefully remove the retaining washer Separate the crown from the stem

Dismantling the suspension fork

Replacing the entire mechanism does not require disassembly. But to repair a bicycle fork, lubricate the inner surface, replace faulty elements, you need to get inside it. The general process of disassembling parts with a shock absorber is approximately the same for different models:

  • the bolts on the bottom of the “pants” are unscrewed with a hex wrench;
  • unscrew the Preload (this is the bolt that regulates the compression of the spring and is responsible for the shock absorber travel);
  • the “pants” are removed from the forked “legs” (if it is clear that there is dirt under the oil seals, then they are too), the old oil is drained;
  • the rods of the “legs” are cleaned of old grease, dirt, the travel stops and stops are removed from them;
  • unscrew the adjustments located at the top of the “pants” (so as not to spoil the edges of the nut, it is advisable to use a key-head with a cut-off edge);
  • take out, clean from dirt, remnants of old grease foot stocks, elastomers, springs.

All parts of the bike fork are neatly laid out in the same order as they were removed from the bike fork. This will make assembly easier later. The disassembled part, after a thorough inspection for damage, is washed with kerosene, some elements are lubricated.

Lubrication and installation

Maintaining a bicycle fork requires first of all the cleaning and lubrication of its components. The range of products used for these purposes is wide. The best option depends on the type of bike, mechanism model, riding conditions. Specialized oils are most effective, but also expensive. It is unprofitable for those who ride a bicycle rarely, therefore many amateurs, wishing to save money, use cheaper means such as “Litola” or “Uniola”, “Solidola”. They have their own negative side properties that should be taken into account (for example, “Litol” has a bad effect on aluminum).

Spring fork lubrication begins with the spring. The lubricant is applied quite thickly (excess will come out through the oil seals). It is also used to machine rings, glass, cups and bearings.

To assemble a fork on a bicycle, follow the same procedure, but in reverse order. Therefore, it is important to be very careful in work so as not to lose parts, for example, bearing balls.

To install the fork mechanism:

  • A ring is put on the junction of it and the steering column, clamp it with a key and lightly beat it with a hammer to put it in place. As soon as the sound becomes ringing, the beats stop.
  • Lubricate the stopper (use “Buksol”, “Litol”, more expensive specially created compounds).
  • Carefully install the bearing with the balls upward, after placing a sealing washer under it. The bearing is also slightly lubricated.
  • Insert the rod into the glass and then carry out all the actions, as during disassembly, but in the reverse order.

Some bikers find it advisable to go over even completely new bike forks with their own hands. Allegedly, this will contribute to their better tuning and a longer service time. In fact, high-quality mechanisms do not need this, and the degree of strength of any front elements is determined only in riding conditions.

Put the ring on the joint of the fork with the steering column Lubricate the stopper Lubricate the bearing, insert the rod into the glass and repeat all removal operations in the reverse order

How to remove and disassemble the front bike fork

A bicycle fork serves more than just a link between the frame and the front wheel. On MTB models, it also acts as the main shock absorber, smoothing out vibrations, stress on the arms and a negative effect on the mechanisms and the frame. Like any mechanism, it requires periodic maintenance, adjustment and replacement of component parts. And all this will require removal and disassembly. Is it possible to disassemble the bike fork by yourself? Quite, it only takes a little time, a few simple tools and neatness.

Why you need to remove a bicycle fork

Obviously, there is no need to simply dismantle it from the bike. There are a number of reasons for this. replacement, overhaul and service. Replacement means removing an unusable part and installing a new one instead.

Repair. partial replacement of components. These can be bearings, washers, spring, damper or oil seal. Service includes adjustment, cleaning, lubrication.

The main symptoms that indicate removing the fork from the bike and putting it in order:

  • knocking on the go;
  • the fork is stuck and not adjustable;
  • bearing wear;
  • lack of lubrication (creaks);
  • cranking, heavy steering;
  • cracked legs and pants.

The device of the classic front shock absorption system is a metal spring and a rubber damper. Shrinkage of the spring and elongation of the elastomer rod degrade the properties of the shock absorber, making it stiffer. Regardless of setting, the fork will knock on obstacles.

Backlash and tight handlebar travel indicate worn bearings and o-rings, and a dirty fork cavity. A suspicious squeak when the bike is moving suggests that it is necessary to lubricate the part, and you cannot do without removing it.

Any mechanical damage leads to unexpected breakdown of the system. If cracks are found on the body and legs, the fork should be immediately replaced with a new one.!

In disassembling the shock absorber with your own hands, you will need tools:

  • set of screwdrivers;
  • flat sharp object;
  • sliding wrenches;
  • hexagon;
  • small hammer.

When working, you will need to clean and lubricate the part again, so you will need a can of grease, a few soft rags and gloves.

And a few recommendations in the end:

  • check the bike fork for integrity every 500. 1000 km;
  • clean the feet on the oil seals every 150. 200 km of the track;
  • apply a little grease to the stuffing box of the legs several times a season;
  • specially for hydraulic shock absorbers. change the oil every 5000 km.

How to remove and install the plug. step by step instructions

The first step is to get rid of the front wheel. To do this, turn the bike upside down. Release rim brakes by swinging out the clamping bow. With the discs, you can immediately start removing the wheel. Wings and other devices are immediately removed.

We put the bike in the usual position. Now you need to pull out the steering wheel and remove the plug from the glass:

Press off the side bolts on the stem.

Completely unscrew the steering pin fasteners or “anchor” bolt.

The steering wheel is carefully removed from the fork. You can immediately wipe the pipe with a soft cloth.

Use a thin sharp object (screwdriver or office knife) to pry the retaining metal washer over the glass.

Use the same tool to press out the gasket under the washer. As soon as the ring comes off the edge of the glass, gently pull it out with your hands.

Raise the frame and carefully pull out the fork from below. Why? To avoid damaging or losing bearings.

READ  Alloy Wheels Are Better Than Spokes On A Bicycle

Next, you need to separate the crown from the stem. To do this, it is necessary to knock out the connecting ring on which the steering column bearing rests.

Using a thin sharp object and a hammer, carefully separate the ring from the edge of the fork. This completes the removal process.

How to put the fork back on the bike

First, inspect the bearing ring. There should be no damage or broken edges on it. Otherwise, you will need to replace it (if an old plug is installed). Assembly sequence:

Put the ring on the joint of the fork with the steering column.

Cover it with an adjustable wrench from above.

Using a hammer, press in the ring evenly with soft blows on the jaws of the key. We hammer “by sound”: while he is deaf, we continue to press, sonorous. the ring is in place.

Lubricate the surface of the stopper (grease. lithol-24, buksol or special composition).

Place the bearing carefully with the balls facing up. You can also put some lubricant on it. A sealing washer must be placed under the bearing.

Carefully insert the stem into the glass and repeat all removal operations in reverse order.

Dismantling the front fork for parts

You don’t need to disassemble the part to replace it, but its repair will require you to “fit” into the mechanism and carefully dig into it. Consider how to sort out a spring-elastomer type suspension fork:

  • Unscrew the bottom fasteners with a hex wrench.
  • Remove the spring compression adjustment bolt. Preload. It is the main damper travel regulator.
  • Remove the elastomer restrictor or damper.
  • Take off the “pants”.
  • Using a screwdriver, remove the seals from the pants.

The main reasons why the fork squeaks, makes knocks and does not smooth out vibrations while the bike is moving include wear of parts, water and dirt ingress, lack of internal lubrication. We put in order:

  • Remove all dirt from the inside of the pants.
  • Thoroughly wipe the fork legs, spring and seals.
  • Replace the defective part if necessary.
  • Fit the elastomer damper (fill oil through the nipple for the hydraulic fork).
  • Lubricate the inner cavity. inject oil from a can.
  • Install Mounting Bolt and Preload.

It looks like a do-it-yourself bicycle fork bulkhead. Is it needed for a new part? There is an opinion that a plug that has been sorted out at once will be better tuned and last longer. Much depends on the quality of the kit, but it will be found out in real riding conditions.

Scheduled repairs are done as needed, bulkhead once a season. And of course, we shouldn’t forget about prevention. After each ride, remove dirt from the surface of the oil seals, lubricate, check the fasteners and integrity.

Front fork for bike. Selection and customization

The front suspension fork is one of the most important parts of a mountain bike. Its main task is to be a shock absorber, otherwise a damper (a device for damping vibrations and vibrations).

The principle of operation of the shock absorber is reduced to the fact that it quickly compresses (when hitting an obstacle) and slowly unfolds (so that the reaction force does not throw you out of the saddle). Most often, the fork is already installed on the bike at the time of purchase, but its quality does not always meet all the requirements of the cyclist. To choose the right fork that suits you, you should familiarize yourself with the differences in the types and methods of operation of modern suspension forks.

Spring forks

The cheapest and lowest quality forks. Usually them, but even this amount spent on buying a spring fork is unlikely to justify itself. In fact, it is not a shock absorber, since it does not dampen vibrations, moreover, it tends to break often. The maximum that such a fork is suitable for is a children’s bike for riding in the yard. When riding, the bike and muscles will tense so much that the fatigue of the metal and your muscles will accumulate many times faster (and this is bad).

Spring Elastomer Bicycle Forks

The cost of these forks is about twice as high as conventional spring forks, but this system cannot be called a full-fledged shock absorber either. The role of a damper in them is played by an elastomeric rod, but the quality of its work leaves much to be desired. It only slightly slows down the compression, but when returning to the starting position, it does it too quickly, hitting the athlete both hands and kidneys, but such a fork can no doubt be put on a walking or regular touring bike for short trips within the city.

Do not trust resourceful manufacturers who produce supposedly “winter” spring-elastomer forks. Unfortunately, in the conditions of the domestic climate, these units, in principle, stop working. If you still want to spend some extra money on a spring-elastomer version before buying a real suspension fork, we recommend choosing a RockShox Judy product.

Air Plugs

In this shock absorber, air is both a spring and a damper. The principle of their operation is similar to oil-air, but you can recognize this plug by the AT or HT marking, they are produced by RST.

For an aggressive riding style, the air forks are still rather weak. they wear out too quickly, but they are quite suitable for a measured ride. The only drawback is that they are short-lived, so if you plan to use it for a long time, it is better to turn to other options.

Bicycle Oil Air Forks

Really working shock absorbers, They use a capsule with oil as a damper, and the air works as a spring. The quality of this fork is directly related to the price. Oil / air forks over 10,000 tend to perform better than oil / spring forks purchased for 8,000 (although they are considered the best).

Air-oil dampers also differ in air pressure: high and low. High pressure forks show better dynamics and are less sensitive to temperature changes. On the contrary, low pressure forks need to be readjusted when the temperature drops by even 10 degrees, but they have a large margin of safety and last longer. Oil-air forks have another plus. they can support heavy athletes.

Oil spring forks

They are considered the best type of shock absorbers and are used in the most expensive bicycle models (excluding the most expensive bicycle in the world). The damper, as in the oil-air forks, is the oil capsule, and the spring is made of steel. for these springs start at 6,000 rubles, but their quality increases in proportion to the price. These forks are unpretentious, suitable for any riding style, but inferior to oil-air forks in the range of adjustments.

By the way, we recommend:

The oil is an excellent damper, which itself has lubricating properties, which greatly simplifies maintenance. But simplifies does not mean completely excludes. Therefore, it is worth knowing what are the advantages and disadvantages of the existing methods of filling oil into the shock absorber.

Open oil bath. makes it easy to change summer oil to winter oil and vice versa; allows for rebound adjustment by increasing or decreasing the viscosity of the oil, and the rigidity by changing its level in the shock absorber; does not require lubrication of internal parts; usually equipped with high-quality oil seals and anthers, which allows less frequent maintenance.

Closed oil bath. oil change only when changing the capsule, there is no way to adjust the rebound; the rigidity of such a fork will be higher; requires frequent maintenance to lubricate internal parts; cheap components are often found.

Obviously, by most parameters, a closed oil bath is inferior to an open one, so you should pay attention to this characteristic if you want the fork to serve for a long time.

Adjusting the bike front fork

So, by choosing the right fork, you get the opportunity to adjust the parameters of its operation to your taste and riding style. To do this, you need to decide what each of the settings is responsible for, and in which direction to change it. But it should be borne in mind that the adjustments really only work on air, oil-air or oil-spring forks, in the rest they exist only for beauty.

Preload

This setting controls the stiffness of the spring. It is also called negative spring travel. Normally, this indicator for a fork does not exceed ten percent of the stroke. Usually adjusted once, based on the weight of the athlete. It only needs to be increased when changing the riding style, for example, downhill, which requires increased rigidity.

Rebound

Responsible for hanging up. It is very important when changing the surface: for a flat road, the rebound should be minimal so that pedaling energy is not expended on it, and on rough terrain, the rebound is unscrewed to obtain full-fledged fork operation. If you plan to change this setting frequently while riding, make sure the adjuster is outside and not inside the shock.

There are also such systems that adjust the rebound rate on their own: these are the developments of the Marzocchi company called SSV, and the more modern SSVF and HSCV. Their principle of operation is based on the sensitivity of the internal circuits to the speed of the nozzles, as a result of which, with increasing vibrations, the shock absorber softens itself.

Compression

The adjustment, which, in contrast to the previous one, allows the compression speed of the fork to be reduced. Unfortunately, in practice it is rare.

Extension control

Suspension fork travel adjustment with locking option. A useful setting when climbing hills or when actively pedaling on level surfaces. In “cool” shock absorbers, this adjustment can memorize several positions, and in addition to the stroke, adjust the fork speed.

LockOut

Complete locking of the fork in one position. Sometimes useful, but more often this function is included in the previous.

Instead of a total

In order for your chosen fork to become a reliable assistant on any track and on any surface, you must remember that the overall impression is formed, sometimes from the details. Therefore, make sure that the shock absorber manufacturer has a certified representative in the Russian Federation, and there is a collection point in your city (in case of breakdown or factory defect).

Choose only a fork with both feet having the same damper and spring arrangement. And it doesn’t matter what the seller says. the quality of the “one-sided” fork is lower, but it wears out faster. Another catch is external lubrication. Forks with external lubrication work well only spherical and only in a vacuum, the rest are instantly clogged with dirt and become unusable.

Some forks provide for improved performance by replacing the “filling”. If your plans include increasing your own professionalism and the level of technical equipment of the bike, you should choose this particular product.

And finally, I would like to note that only cheese in a mousetrap is free, so choose a fork wisely and cook at least 7-8 thousand rubles if you want to get a good, convenient and easy-to-maintain fork.

The text was prepared by Roman Borisov. Published: May 29, 2020. Categories: Choice, Brands and types.

  • Tags:
  • v-brake
  • fork
  • disc brakes
  • brakes